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Via Francigena - part 1
  • Carmel Carlsen

Via Francigena - part 1

I'll be walking the first part of the pilgrimage from Canterbury Cathedral to Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Read more
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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 45 - Besancon to Ornans

    June 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It was a very challenging 38.5 km today. There was a very steep ascent out of Besancon, followed by a lot of climbing (650m, my record so far). The day ended with one extremely steep descent and then a very gentle descent of around 7.5 km into Ornans via an old train line. I even got to walk through an old train tunnel and cross over a beautiful stone bridge! The Path today was mostly through forest, really lovely, and more like an Australian track with rocks and tree roots all through it. Dark clouds appeared in the afternoon, with thunder, and I was treated with a sun shower of about 10 minutes. I heard a new sound today: cows wearing bells! Also, the countryside is more wild looking here, I'm seeing something that looks like an escarpment right outside my hotel. P.S. I should have mentioned that I met a British man today, Howard, who's doing the Via Francigena in reverse. He was a lovely fellow and says he gets a lot of abuse for being British. That has not been my experience - even today on the track, a lovely French family were so friendly and interested in what I am doing.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Day 46 - Ornans to Mouthier Haute Pierre

    June 5, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    A short walk of 16 km today - very pleasant. I took my time and lots of photos. The hotel at Ornans had a wellness centre attached for the use of guests. Before breakfast, I had a 20 minute session in the relaxation pod and 15 minutes on the massage bed - what luxury! The countryside has changed significantly. I appear to have moved on from the flat landscape and the wide open spaces I am used to seeing every day. That's to be expected, I suppose. I have included a picture of a cow wearing a bell, just so you know I wasn't imagining it.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 47 - Mouthier Haute Pierre to Pontar

    June 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A spectacular day of walking today. It began with a walk through the Gorges de Noailles, which follows the river Loue to its source. I really felt in my element as it was exactly like a bush walk at home. You follow the river up and up. It reminded me of the walks to Minnamurra Falls (NSW) and through Mosman Gorge (QLD). I ascented to a height of 900m today (from around 450m) and descended to around 650m at Pontarlier. Another record for me on this journey. Unbelievably, I know of 7 pilgrims walking the same stage of the VF today; a couple from WA (Krishna and David), Hans (from Belguim who I've mentioned before), a French woman who started the VF three days ago (from her home and going to Rome), one other couple (Marco and Zoha from Luxemburg - I met them briefly this morning), and myself. Finally, I am very happy as I was able to buy a proper rain poncho (to protect my front pockets) and rubber tips for my poles (somehow, I arrived in the UK with only one tip! I've been using a temporary workaround since Bruay-le-Bussiere: 3 rubber stoppers and sticky tape) at Decathlon this afternoon. Note: I have included a photo of Hans.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 48 - Pontarlier to Jougne

    June 7, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It's my last night in France, and my guidebook says that I am 1026 km from Canterbury. Over the past 46 days, I have followed the GR145 (Grande Randonnée) from beginning to end: Calais to Jougne. I have had the privilege to see and touch structures from the ancient Roman civilisation; I have taken the exact same routes as those used by Joan of Arc, King Henry IV, and the Knights Templar; I have passed through Napoleonic battlefields; I have gained a deeper appreciation of the unbelievable sacrifice made by the soldiers in WWI; and I've glimpsed the tragedy of the loss of Commonwealth flyers in WWII; I have crossed and walked beside streams, creeks, rivers, lakes and canals; I have walked through mile after mile of cultivated fields, seen more agricultural machinery than ever before, and walked through woodland and forests of all descriptions, with birds hopping, flying and calling all around me; I have seen more animals, domestic and wild, than I could have imagined; I have walked through hamlets, villages, towns and cities. I have seen countless churches and been lucky enough to get inside quite a few. The French people have been kind and friendly (sometimes calling out bon courage, "good luck" as I've passed by) and far more tolerant of my limited French and appalling pronunciation than I could ever have expected. Every pilgrim and traveller I have encountered have been the same. Have I managed this without complaint? Of course not. But I have done it, mindful of my circumstances, and how lucky I am to be here. P.S. the animal is a chamois. My host says they are no longer afraid of humans.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 49 - Jougne to Orbe

    June 8, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    My first day in Switzerland was a real treat. Just as I was taking a photo of the Chapel of Saint Maurice (just outside of Jougne), I heard someone calling out my name! It was the Italian woman, Paola, and the Brit (who prefers to be anonymous). I assumed they were days ahead of me as they are both so fit and strong. It was lovely to see them, and we walked together to Orbe. We had all elected to take the historic route to Jougne (an alternative Path), and therefore, there were no way markers today, so I was glad to have someone else take the lead. We crossed the pedestrian and bike border from France into Switzerland at around 9:30 a.m., and the Brit had a 1/2 bottle of champagne to celebrate! Which was just as well as it really was a non-event otherwise! Though, having others with me meant that I got a photo! I am so glad we did take the historic route as we got to walk through the Gorges de I'Orbe - it was spectacular. I will now be walking the "70" the official VF route in Switzerland. I snuck into the church here at Orbe and took some photos - they are renovating, and it's not open!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 50 - rest day (Orbe)

    June 9, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A very quiet and productive day today. All but two of my last nine nights' accommodation on the VF have been confirmed. I would have gone to see the Roman mosaics Orbe is famous for, but you can only do so on the weekend. If you look really closely at the photo with the tall industrial chimney in it, you can see the mountains in the, extreme, distance. P.S. all my accommodation is now confirmed - it's full steam ahead to Grand-Saint-Bernard Pass!!!!!!!!!! Also, I met Hans and his Dad last night for drinks!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 52 - Orbe to Cossonay

    June 10, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A good walk today through forest, farmland, and riverside (both l'Orbe and La Venoge). The day started with a little rain (it had rained overnight as well), but not enough for rain gear. It was around 30 km, about 5 km more than I expected. Sure, I did go the wrong way after a glass of Rose - but that would only have added 2 km at most. Some lovely Swiss people (Veronique, Katherine and François) asked me to join them for a drink around lunchtime, as I was walking on a forest path, and the new me said "yes, please!" We talked about the cost of living in our respective countries and the VF. They are lovely and we've already connected on WhatsApp! I'll get in touch when I'm back next year in April. P.S. the last photo is the view from my hotel tonight. P.S. I saw my first Swiss deer today, running across a field. That's 6 in total now.Read more

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    Day 53 - Cossonay to Lausanne

    June 11, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The day started warm. Even at 5 a.m., I was quite comfortable sitting outside before the sun came up, with only my slides on and no jacket! I had a late start because it was Sunday (and breakfast is not served before 8 a.m.) and was grateful when the roadside walking, through farmland, changed to riverside walking (La Venoge). I got to Lake Geneva at 1:45 p.m. and got to walk almost 9 km along its shores. I don't know why, but I was surprised to see swans on the lake. I saw a terrific number of people today (the most I've seen this trip). There were loads of people all along the path today, walking, running, cycling - all getting out in nature on the weekend. Of course, being a beautiful, warm day (and the weekend), Lake Geneva was a big attraction. It was very hard to pick my photos today as I took so many. Note: My waymarkers are now a yellow diamond with a black border and are nowhere near as frequently as I would like. I have to refer to the app constantly! P.S. I look at those mountains and feel very intimidated. I weary today. P.S.S. the only downside was the SWARMS of midges or gnats that were all along the lake path!Read more

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    Day 54 - Lausanne to Vevey

    June 12, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Another warm sunny day and plenty of good walking. The day started with lakeside walking and evolved into 'above lake' walking through vineyards (white wine, I believe). I met heaps of people today: a lovely lady who has done the camino in Spain (she took the photo of me); a woman, originally from Canada, who's mum's came from Brisbane, and has lived in Switzerland since she was 15; and a really lovely couple from British Columbia, Kim and Crag (could be Craig, but pronounced "Crag"), who are dipping in and out of the VF. Again, it's very hard to select the photos as I have taken loads today, and there was so much beauty and so much to be in wonder of. I feel strong today. Yes, the mountains are intimidating, but after a pep talk from my daughter last night, I'm feeling strong and capable again. I'm tired, of course - walking all of today and most of yesterday on sealed surfaces has made my feet burn, but I'm not so sure now that the mountains will defeat me. Oh, and I had a small heart attack this afternoon as both of my credit cards were declined!!!!!! It appears that it was the machine at the hotel, as I was able to withdraw cash to pay, but I may have paid $156.00 up to 6 times - with all the failed attempts!!!! Oh, and I wasn't exaggerating about the midges/gnats, I managed to take a photo of a swarm as I set off this morning.Read more

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    Day 55 - Vevey to Aigle

    June 13, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I've left the lake behind me now, but not the sealed surfaces! A good walk today, lakeside, lake adjacent, through a lot of beautiful countryside and ending in vineyards. I met up with Alison from the USA this morning. We met at Guines (Day 4). She was walking with Kim, who had to pull out due to an injury, went back to the USA herself (for her daughter's wedding), and has dropped back into the VF, with Paulette. We all expect to get to Grand Saint Bernard Pass on the 18th! The highlight of my day was a tour of Chateau Chillon (I've included a bad photo of Alison and Paula in the Chateau - we happened to meet there). There was quite a bit of rain this afternoon, which was great, as I got to test out my poncho - my front pockets are perfectly dry - success! Also, I got some climbing in this afternoon, of course in the rain, the legs are doing very well 👌. Note: There were a lot of lovely sculptures on the lake today - Freddy Mercury included.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 56 - Aigle to Saint Maurice

    June 14, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A really mixed bag of walking today; vineyards, forests, riverside (La Gryonne and the Rhone), railway line side, and, of course, minor country road ways. I got some good climbing in and saw the most beautiful wooden sculptures along a path called Sentier du Pelerin (Pilgrims Path). Now I'm in Switzerland, I have to remember to keep looking up - my sun hat prevents that, so that I don't miss the mountains all around me. I'm staying tonight with the Franciscans - a commercial enterprise that seems to be doing very well. Note how pale the Rhone looks. As I was walking next to it, I could feel the chill in the breeze.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 57 - Saint Maurice to Martigny

    June 15, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another good day of walking. It was warm, and I got to spend a lot of the time under trees, walking through forest trails, which is always a good thing. Everywhere in Switzerland, that I have seen is beautiful: Saint Maurice was lovely, as is Martigny. When I got up this morning, there was not a cloud in the sky, so I took some photos of the surrounding mountains. I met another pilgrim today, Matt, from the USA. The two rivers are the Mauvoisin (looks like a canal) and the Saint Barthelemy (flowing under the wooden bridge). The waterfall is the Cascade de la Pissevache (where I met a lovely Swiss woman), I saw the Mont Blanc Express train today, and I took a minor detour, up a very rough track, to grab a photo of Des Gorges du Trient (the photo with the bridge between the rock walls).Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 58 - rest day (Martigny)

    June 16, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today, I acted as a tourist. I visited the Roman amphitheatre (were there will be a performance on Sunday), the "Barry" museum (dedicated to the Saint Bernard) - there were 11 puppies all from the one litter (I also learnt a lot about Grand Saint Bernard Pass and met up with two uni students from Brisbane), I visited the art gallery (which was showing a Turner exhibition from the Tate), had an impressive Roman artifact collection, a vintage car collection, and a really lovely sculpture garden - there was a Max Ernst piece, a Moore and two Rodin's; one of Victor Hugo. In the afternoon, I walked up to the Chateau de la Batiaz, climbed to the top, and got panoramic views of the area. I am now sitting outside a bar listening to a terrific Blues band! The one other thing I will mention is the incredible wooden bridge, still functioning - cars and all - that spans the Dranse River (called the Batiaz). P.S. got my first seniors discount today at the Barry museum!Read more

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    Day 59 - Martigny to Orsieres

    June 17, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today's walk was classified as "challenging," and it was. After leaving Martigny, the track followed the Dranse River and the train line. The track was narrow, rough, and unstable (obvious rock slides, tree roots, loose stones - of all sizes - thick beds of pine needles and pine cones; all designed to trip you up). I got to cross a suspension bridge, and then the track conditions got worse. For the first time ever, I removed the rubber stoppers from my poles (to try to keep me more stable going down the loose stones) and actually put the pole straps on my wrists (I was not going to risk loosing a pole). Then, of course, I strayed unwittingly from the path (and upgraded the classification to "bloody difficult"), I crossed over a recent a landslide, realised my mistake, and scaled the side of the mountain to get back on track. That was no mean feat, I was dragging myself up a good 20 to 30m by tree roots, branches, and solid rock holds. Meanwhile, slipping on the loose earth! Honestly, I was scrambling on my hands and knees at one point! I kept repeating two things: "I am not enjoying this" and "you are an experienced bushwalker." When I got back on the path, I was covered in dust, my knees were grazed, my legs and face scratched and bleeding, and all my fingernails were broken! After that adventure, the wind was really taken out of my sails, but I knew I was strong enough for whatever the Path throws at me next. Thankfully, the Path in the afternoon was wider and much more civilised. I got to Orsieres safe and sound and have the most incredible view from my hotel balcony!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen
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    Day 60 - Orsieres to Col du Gd St Bernar

    June 18, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    It's done. I got here. I'll start with the stats. Today, I walked 28.13 km (1220 km from Canterbury), and according to my guidebook, the ascent was 3434m, and the descent was 1854m (what goes up must come down). I left my hotel around 8:10 am, and arrived at the pass just after 5:20 pm. There was snow next to the Path about 2150m, about 2.7 km from the Pass, and a lot of flowing water on the Path itself. The rain started around then - enough to warrant the poncho, but intermittent and not heavy at all. About 730m from the hospice, I was forced to walk on the snow. The entire walk was hard, and I'm shattered. Get this, on the way, through clearly marked VF signage, I had to cross two paddocks surrounded by electrified fences; when I tried to scurry under the first one my backpack got caught and I got zapped twice trying to free it! So, when I crossed the other three fences (the exit from the first paddock and the entrance and exit of the second paddock), I crawled on my tummy; commando style! The first paddock was empty, but the second paddock was huge and full of bulls!!!!!!!!! Thankfully, the ones around me were calm and relaxed (because I certainly wasn't). Alison, Paulett, and Matt got swamped by them when they went through. They are also here at the Pass. Italy is just down the street, I will visit tomorrow. A lovely woman from Singapore and living in Perth took the photo of me on the track and a very nice Swiss/French couple took the one of me here at the pass.Read more

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    Post walk: +1 - Col du Gd St Bernard to

    June 19, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Before I left the Pass this morning, I popped over to Italy, enjoyed the amazing views, was lucky enough to see a mountain goat, and met up with another two Australian pilgrims: Cathy and Geoff. They were starting out on the first stage of the Italian leg. I took a taxi down the mountain to Orsieres, then took a bus (train replacement) and train back to Martigny, where I was able to quickly transfer to the Geneva express! I am sitting in my hotel room now relaxing and reflecting on my time in Switzerland. I like pretty much everything about Switzerland; there are services all around you. I never had to worry about a place to stay or what I would be eating. Obviously, the landscape is phenomenal, and everywhere you look, you can see something beautiful. I have included some photos of Paulette, Alison, and Matt (the Californians), and I have included some of the lovely pieces I saw in the hospice (as well as the church itself). P.S. as a reflection on my entire walk: my gear was first class - thank you to all my BMC friends for your wisdom and advice (it made all the difference). I'd also like to send a shout-out to Andrew T. Not only was he a great walking companion, but he was also a source of ongoing invaluable advice as he forged ahead of me on the Path - thank you, Andrew 😊Read more

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    Post walk - on the way home: Geneva

    June 28, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I've spent a relaxing week in Geneva. I've had a manicure and pedicure, a haircut, a full body massage with reflexology, and I'm very much looking forward to coming home. I've walked around the city, visited churches, archaeological sites, and museums, and took a lake cruise. Oh, and I've eaten extremely well.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Post walk - on the way home: Amsterdam

    June 28, 2023 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Amsterdam airport is huge! My flights delayed by 1/2 an hour, but that shouldn't be a problem. I've included my last photos of Switzerland and a wall of Miffy's at the Amsterdam airport.

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Post walk - on the way home: Bangkok

    June 29, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    I have an eight hour gap between planes, and Bangkok airport has given me plenty of opportunity to walk around and exercise my legs. I imagine that one unique feature of this airport is the number of monks who are flying all over the world.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1Carmel Carlsen

    Post walk - home!

    June 30, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    I got back to Australia this morning and, of course, my checked in bag, my backpack, didn't! I'm glad to be home, but worried about my aarn!

    Trip end
    June 28, 2023
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