Europe

août - octobre 2016
  • Michelle Creasy
Une aventure de 61 jours par Michelle En savoir plus
  • Michelle Creasy

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  • 64empreintes
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  • Highland folk museum

    30 septembre 2016, Écosse ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    It was a wild and windy day today. Given most of what I want to do is geared towards the outdoors I headed to the Highland Folk Museum.

    It was about an hour away towards Inverness.
    It's a great place, free (although they do ask for a donation).

    I started with the farm area, the buildings are dressed for around the 1930s although sone of the buildings are older.
    I was excited to see one of the buildings dated back to the 1850s, about the time my great grandfather and his family left the area to come to Australia.

    It had been raining on and off all morning but started coming down really heavily so I went into Newtonmore for some lunch, the cafe at the museum only sold cold food and it was a day for hot food!

    There wasn't a lot open, I got a very definite "end of season" feel to the town but I found a lovely little teashop.
    I had cullen skink - smoked fish and potato soup. It was very rich and filling but the serve was thankfully small.

    Speaking of soup, what is it with Scots and lentil soup? It's been on nearly all the menus the last couple of days.

    I went back to the museum and explored the 1700s township. There was a peat fire burning in the biggest house.
    It did highlight what a hard life it must have been.

    It was only 4pm so I decided to return via Inverness and Loch Ness. It was a nice drive, I stopped off in Fort Augustus for tea and had haggis, neeps and oatcakes (no tatties though). I liked the haggis, it is nicer than black pudding.

    Photos
    1850s farmhouse
    Inside a 1700s house with a peat fire
    On the walk to the 1700s township I found animal carvings
    1700s grand house
    Loch Ness
    Nessie
    En savoir plus

  • All about the views

    1 octobre 2016, Écosse ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    The day started off well with beautiful sunny weather. I went out to the Old Inverlochy Castle, unfortunately it is being restored so I could only walk around the outside. Apparently Queen Victoria wasn't very inpressed with the ruins when she visited.

    I came back into Fort William for a cruise on the loch. The captain was very informative and the cruise was great despite the weather coming in cold and windy.
    We saw seals and 2 porpoises as well as salmon and mussel farms. The mussels are naturally farmed, the only artificial part is the lines they are attached to.
    We could see the salmon jumping out of the water.

    I then took the gondola halfway up Aonach Mor, a mountain close to Ben Nevis. I still haven't seen the Ben, it has been shrouded in cloud. Apparently it has snowed up there and may have settled, it should be a clearer day tomorrow so hopefully it will be visable then.
    I still had great views.
    The commando memorial was next and again great views. I then went round to Corpach were my great grandfather was born and then followed the two lochs around back to Fort William the long way, this included a short ferry trip at Corran. I wish I had been able to properly capture the colour of the loch this afternoon, it was stunning.

    Seafood for tea - mussels and then salmon. Delicious!

    Photos
    View of Loch Linnhe
    Salmon jumping
    Seals
    View on Loch Linnhe towards Corran
    View from Aonach Mor
    Corpach train station
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  • Steam train to Mallaig

    1 octobre 2016, Écosse ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    The line from Glasgow to Mallaig is meant to be one of the best train journeys in the world. From Fort William to Mallaig is the last part of the trip. The jacobite steam train runs this route and is the train I took.

    A large part if the attaction of the journey is the Glenfinnan viaduct, made famous in the Harry Potter movies. I didn't get any photos as my seat was by the corridor, not the window. It's one of those times you forget the camera, enjoy the experience and buy a postcard rather than spend all your time trying to get a good photo.

    I did like this train better than the Achenseebahn! It is much more comfortable.
    I can better imagine the scenes in many books in which the characters are in train carriages or in corridors. The food trolley went up and down the corridor, I could appreciate just how dark it got going through a tunnel and I learnt not to stick your head out of the window just after coming out of a tunnel.

    On the return journey it was lovely with the sun coming in the window. It was hard not to relax and have a nap as some of my carriage mates did.

    The carriage seated six and I shared it with an Irish family - a couple, her parents and grandfather. They came over just for the trip.

    Mallaig itself is quite small. I went on a wildlife cruise which was a bit of a misnomer. We saw some seals and some sheep! Beautiful scenery though, and I did see Skye.
    On the trip to Mallaig we saw two deer, they didn't have antlers.

    I had just enough time after the cruise to get some soup - prawn and scallop chowder before getting back in the train.

    Despite not having a window seat I really enjoyed it.

    Photos
    Steam train
    Scenery from train
    Mallaig harbour
    Glenfinnen viaduct
    Neptune's staircase / seven locks
    Me!
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  • Oban

    3 octobre 2016, Écosse ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Today's agenda was the Steall falls and Oban.
    A beautiful drive in the wrong direction wasn't on the list but happened first up anyway - bloody GPS. The GPS couldn't find the falls and when I put in what I thought was the address took me on a drive to nowhere, but a very scenic drive to nowhere.
    Googlemaps was more successful and I found my way to the lower falls carpark (the upper falls path is blocked by a rock fall) and finally saw the lower falls.

    Onwards to Oban, the town that is close to the isle of Mull. It is a lovely seaside town, although the tide was out.
    I had a huge seafood platter for lunch - smoked salmon, mussles, oysters, langostines and a crab claw. I had a wander around the town.

    Back towards Fort William is the sea life santuary, I got a good look at an otter for the first time, I hadn't realised they had such long tails.I was in time for the seal feeding, it was great to watch.
    I stopped in Glencoe on the way back, there wasn't a lot to see. I drove around the river Coe which was a nice drive.

    I had a bit of trouble finding tea, the first place didn't "do" solo diners in the restaurant, only in the bar. Well if they didn't want me in the restaurant I didn't want to eat in their bar, which may have been a foolish decision. The next two places were full/fully booked. The fourth had a table with mediocre service and food. I was just glad to eat and get back to the B&B.

    Ben Nevis
    Steall fals
    Glen views
    Lunch
    Oban
    Otter
    En savoir plus

  • Farewell Scotland

    4 octobre 2016, Écosse ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    I left the beauty of Scotland behind me today. I did try and work in a visit to the Isle of Arran but couldn't get the ferries to work.

    The drive from Fort William to Largs was truly gorgeous, especially coming down through Loch Lamond.
    I broke the journey at Largs, it is the setting of several of Dorita Fairlie Bruce's series and also I was told I had to have icecream there. Always one to do as I am told I had an icecream sundae. I enjoyed it but it the sort of thing you should indulge in rarely.
    I was conscious of the time so while I took the ferry to Great Cumbrae I didn't get off and explore the island.

    Then it was a long drive to Coniston in the Lake District. The last hour was in the datk along some windy narrow roads.
    I'm staying in an Inn (pub with accommodation upstairs). There must be a church nearby as the clock/bell struck 9 times at 9pm.
    Hopefully once I've shut the windows I won't be able to hear it. The window is open because I'm trying to cool the room down. I find the radiators make the room rather hot.

    Photos
    Views
    Views
    Icecream sundae
    Parish of St Columba
    Ferry unloading
    Cumbrae in the distance
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  • Roads, rivers, bridges and a train

    4 octobre 2016, Angleterre ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    But no lakes.

    I thought I'd start the morning with a scenic drive, only 42 miles, it won't take long I thought. I didn't read the fine print.

    The route was well described, Coniston - Duddon Valley - Eskdale - Coniston.

    The author seemed to like rivers and bridges, the first few points of interest were stops to view (and paddle in!) the rivers and also the stone bridges that are built over them.
    I also saw bracken, it's more fern-like than I had imagined.

    I then found myself at Dalegarth Station with the minature steam train about to leave. I bought a return ticket with no idea where it went or how long it took. It went down to Ravenglass and was a very scenic journey. I saw banded cows - they were black or brown with a wide white band around their middle. Googling suggests they are a Belted Galloway.
    We had a deisel engine on the way back and it took 30 mins, as opposed to 45 on the way there.

    I then made my way over the Hardknott Pass, a steep winding road over the mountains. At one point when I was heading down I couldn't see the road in front of me. What made it worse was the cyclists and the cars coming on the other direction. It was single lane with passing areas along the way.

    But what a view. It was worth it, even if my heart was in my mouth quite often.

    Once I got through that I had to tackle Wrynose Pass and while it wasn't as difficult as Hardknott pass it was no piece of cake.

    From there it was relatively quick and easy back to Coniston. It was only then that I read the introductory statement "A drive that includes the most challenging mountain pass roads in the Lake District..."
    Although to be honest I probably would have done it anyway.

    I took a look at Tarn Hows and Coniston water.

    I went across the road for tea and I have been sitting in the bar of the Inn in which I am staying for the last hour. The wifi in my room is very patchy so I wanted to write this in the bar. I have spent most of the time chatting to a couple from the Peak district who have been giving me lots of suggestions for the rest of my trip.

    Photos
    View
    Forge Bridge
    Sheep on the road
    View on the way down Hardknott pass
    Cows - the black one wouldn't get out of my way!
    Coniston water
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  • Peter Rabbit Country

    6 octobre 2016, Angleterre ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Today was another of those days where I didn't end up where I'd planned but was happier with the result.

    I couldn't get a signal and therefore couldn't find the address of the Beatrix Potter exhibition so I put the address I had on a flyer into the GPS, this turned out to be Hill Top, the first farm Beatrix Potter bought and where she lived for a while. The National Trust owns and runs the property now.

    The ticketing was a bit weird, you bought a timed ticket and had to be waiting outside at that time but then you could just wander through at your own leisure. I was fortunate that a coachload was running late, I got a time in which I had to wait just 5 minutes instead of 35, and I avoided the crowds until I was just about to leave.

    I then made my way to Bowness on Windermere, via the Windemere ferry. I found the original exhibition I had been looking for. It was more like Beatrix Potter land, they had models of a lot of her books. It was good but seeing Hill Top farm was better.

    I had my first ploughman's platter and it included a small pork pie so I could tick both of them off the list.

    I spent the afternoon on Lake Windemere going south to Lakeside and then north to Ambleside.

    I'm again going to try for an early night, last night as I went to leave the bar I got drawn into a conversation about Brexit and the working man and then spent quite a while researching the peak district so no early night.
    En savoir plus

  • Yorkshire Dales

    7 octobre 2016, Angleterre ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    As I didn't visit the dales on my way through Yorkshire earlier I went via them today on my way to the peak district.
    I didn't have anywhere specific in mind to visit, while researching places to go I came across Sedbergh, a "book town". Many of the shops along the main street sell books, apart from the charity bookshop the rest seemed to sell things other than books.
    The Sleepy Elephant sold vintage children's books and outdoor wear.
    I had a lovely time looking around, I bought two books - a hardback of The Chalet Gitls in Camp and a Bessie Marchant.
    Visits to other shops resulted in two more books.

    In Hawes I discovered the Wendsleydale Creamery. I was able to taste all sorts of cheeses. I had the restaurant's cheese lunch - three cheese rarebit, a cheese ploughman's platter and a ginger cheesecake. It was nice but a bit much really. I'm all cheesed out!
    They had a small museum which was intetesting and a viewing gallery to what the cheesemaking.

    By this time it was after 3pm so I headed off to Darley Dale, where I am staying. The route through the dales was beautiful, the bit around Manchester slow and frustrating.
    I'm staying in a country house, it's very nice. I was limited in accommodation for here and I made some savings with the accommodation in Fort William so being slightly over budget wasn't a problem.

    Photos
    Books!
    "Sleeping elephants", the hills behind Sedbergh
    Dales view
    Kitchen in Creamery Museum
    Cheesemaking
    Sunset in the dales
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  • Chesterfield and Chatsworth

    8 octobre 2016, Angleterre ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    My fancy bed turned out to be very comfortable.

    I headed into Chesterfield this morning.
    The main reason was to buy a small suitcase as my other one is getting rather full. I came across a Debenhams and found what I was looking for.

    Chesterfield is a market town and Fridays are general market day. The market took a bit of finding but I did find it. They weren't that exciting but it was interesting to read the history behind the market.

    Dominating the skyline is the crooked spire. It is the spire of the Catholic church. It was easy to find - just had to follow the spire. No one is quite sure why it is crooked - it seems to have rotated. The "sensible" theory is that the foundation of the spire was made of green wood that dried and twisted the spire.
    Two of the legends: one that Satan landed on the spire, the insense made him sneeze and the spire twisted. The other is that a virgin was married in the church and the spire bent to take a look, it couldn't stand back up straight. If another virgin was to marry in the church it would bend the other way and straighten up!

    The church itself was lovely, built along the lines of a small cathedral.

    The afternoon was spent at Chatswood - the home of the Duke and Duchesd of Devonshire. It is simply gorgeous.

    I toured the house first, my favourite room was the library. I could only look in from the door but would have loved to sit in there with a book. Seeing the bedrooms set up was very interesting.

    The house is very grand but the gardens are so much more interesting. I spent two hours there and only left because they were closing.
    I first did a tour which gave interesting information. Then I walked around. I found my way to the maze and eventually found the centre.

    Walking back to the entrance I could hear the sheep, it reminded me of being on the farm on chilly evenings when the sound of the sheep travels.

    I heard (on tv?) people say that the countryside smells. It does, which really surprises me, maybe there is a greater concentration of stock than we have, plus you are often driving over land the stock roams over.

    I had dinner at The Devonshire Arms. It is a very cosy pub, unfortunately all the tables there were reserved but they had a new section in which I got a table.

    The food was a lot fancier than it sounded.
    I had liver parfait to start with. I had to laugh when the only other people in the room (it was early) asked me what liver parfait was. I could only tell them I expected it to be like pate but lighter. I'm no expert, fortunately I was right.

    Main was gammon steak and fried egg. I've seen gammon steak and egg on a lot of menus recently so I decided to try it. It brought back memories of ham steak and pineapple rings that we used to get at the hostel, hence my hesitation. It was nothing like that. It was quite a thick steak of ham with a fried egg and then lots of fancy bits - dried radish and something else, potato gems (which was just weird) and 4 different "smears". It was nice though and I'd eat gammon steak again.

    Chesterfield market and market hall
    Crooked spire
    Church
    Chatsworth library
    Gardens
    Chatsworth
    En savoir plus

  • Victorian delights

    8 octobre 2016, Angleterre ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Another day with vague plans that came together very well.

    Yesterday I booked a trip on a canal boat. As I mentioned in an earlier blog I didn't really understand how a canal lock worked.
    There was some miscommunication in that my booking wasn't passed on to the canal boat. I got to the Hollingwood Hub on the Chesterfield Canal at 10am to find the boat still parked up. The lovely lady in the cafe gave Bob a call and he explained that he didn't get the booking and would be down for 11am. So I sat in my car and read one of my new books (an exciting tale of schoolgirls who get shipwrecked - "School on an Island" by Rita Coatts for my book friends).

    At 11 I found out they weren't intending on going until 12. So I had a cup of tea.

    It was worth the wait though. I was the only passenger and so was able to have a good chat with Bob as we talked about the canal and other things.
    And I got to go through a lock! We entered at the lower end and floated to the top. We went further down the canal, round a bend that is apparently there because the land contains the mass graves of plague victims.
    We turned around and then went through the lock again, this time lowering the water.

    It was one of the (many) highlights of my trip. Bob wouldn't let me pay because I'd had to wait so long so I bought a souvenir tea towel.
    I met a lovely 88 year old man, he has backpacked and rock climbed all over the world. He sailed up the inside passage on a yacht with his wife and another couple.
    We had a good chat.

    From there I came over to Matlock Bath to do the Heights of Abraham, a cable car to the top of a massive hill.
    Parking was a real problem, the car park by the cable car was full, I eventually found one at the other end of town. Walking down to the town I discovered that the Illuminations were on tonight. As luck would have it I was parked in the right car park for that.

    I had a look at the lead mining museum, others probably would have found it more interesting that I did. It did emphasise just how cramped the working conditions were.

    I found the cable car and made my way up the hill. It does give a lovely view and there is a lot to do up there.

    I'm Victorian times it was a very popular spot but they had to walk up!

    After coming back down I was making my way back to the car when I came across a Victorian Bath house/arcade. The water used in the baths is high in calcium carbonate and would "petrify" objects. I saw lots of examples of this.

    The swimming pool is now a koi pond but I could still get the idea. Upstairs was a hologram exhibition and that was really cool.

    Tea was pretty much fish and chips or variations thereof. Two out of every three shops on the Main Street seemed to be fish and chip shops.

    A lot of the shops also have "bikers welcome" signs. Apparently lots of bikers come here. A few years ago the county decided they would name it difficult/impossible for the to park in the town as a way of discouraging them from visiting. 8000 bikers descended on the town. This is accordingly to the young guy from Darby who shared my cable car on the way down.

    Anyway I had fish and chips for tea, I could add peas, gravy or curry. I decided to try the curry as Phil recommended it after Whitby.
    I was expecting more of a Thai curry sauce (don't ask why) but it was more of a curry powder gravy. It was better than I thought and I'd chose it over mushy peas but not gravy.

    The illuminations turned out to be rowing boats lit up on the Derwent river. It has been a tradition since Queen Victoria's golden jubilee. The first boat out was lit by candles in glass jars, the rest was electric.

    It was certainly something different, the whole place had a fair feel to it. It finished with fireworks at 9. I'm sitting in the car in the car park waiting for the traffic to die down before leaving.

    I've enjoyed my time in the Peak District but I'm not sure I've actually been in the National Park.

    Photos
    Canal boat Madeleine
    Entering lock
    Approaching full lock
    Petrified objects
    Cable cars
    "Ship in a bottle" illuminated boat
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