• Michelle Creasy
8月 – 10月 2016

Europe

Michelleによる61日間のアドベンチャー もっと詳しく
  • 旅行の開始
    2016年8月24日

    Definitely Not To The Manor Born

    2016年8月24日, オーストラリア ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    I'm writing this blog for my family anf friends to follow while I'm away. It is likely to be long, rambly and mundane in parts but that is me.

    I'm flying business class. Not because I am overly wealthy (it would be first class then) but because I don't like flying; I find flying extremely uncomfortable and sitting in a cramped space means trouble for my knees, hips, back and neck.
    So when I planned this trip business class airfares and 1st class train trips were put into the budget.

    But I'm such a dork! I could deal with sitting in the backseat of the car that picked me up. Seriously, Emirates will pick you up and drop you off when you fly business.
    Coming to the business lounge though, my lack of experience in the finer things in life shows.

    All I wanted was a drink of water. I have a cold, the Dr told me to stay well hydrated on the plane to help combat DVT and I'd been running around for the last couple of hours so I was thirsty. There was plenty to drink - alcohol, juice, cool drinks, tea and coffee but I couldn't see a jug of water. Turns out it is in little bottles - I'm on my third 😀.
    I hadn't planned to eat anything as we get two meals on the plane but then remembered I hadn't lunch so thought I'd have some soup. So I picked up my bag, coat and backpack and took it all up to the servery, looking for a bin for my little bottle on the way because I was taught not to leave mess for others to clean up. I didn't find one but the lovely staff member who showed me where the water was took it for me.
    Then I saw the soup. Cream of zucchini. Not quite what I was hoping for.
    "No worries, I'll have some other food" I thought, I was about to pick up a tiny bowl to put my food in when the same staff member showed me where the plates were hiding. So I sat up at the table and had my meal. It was only when I'd finished and once again relocated I saw most other people with their food and drinks at the comfy chairs.
    I have two hours to practise being business class before i get on the plane.
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  • Stranger in Strange Lands

    2016年8月26日, イングランド ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I made it to London, via Dubai.
    I was patted down in Dubai as I went through secruity. I still don't know what set the machine off but it was a bit disconcerting to be beckoned to a small cubicle by a female security guard to be patted down, especially as I had to leave my belongings behind. It really brought home to me that being a female travelling on her own can have it's difficulties.
    I even questioned whether I should get into a lift with two men (I did and we travelled up one floor uneventfully).

    London has surprised me on several counts.
    There are so many people around. The wide footpaths are full with people, enough to remind me of the Royal Show on a slow day. Given the population is over 8 million it shouldn't have been so unexpected.
    There are lots of people smoking on the streets and the cigarettes smell different (more herby maybe?)
    The rubbish bags on the streets and in dooorways. Why is this better than wheelie bins? Who picks it all up?
    The street signs are painted on the buildings. It just looks weird.

    I did a hop on hop off bus tour this afternoon, I had a good view of central London.

    Photos:
    London eye from the other side of the river
    Big Ben
    River Thames
    Red bus
    Street signs
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  • If I only had a fridge...

    2016年8月27日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A long day today. I'm writing this in a little Korean restaurant as I know I will be too tired when I get back to the hotel.

    I had a river cruise included in my Hop on Hop off tour and so made my way to the London Eye Pier. I had to walk past the London eye, saw the queues, thought "no way" then saw the fast track and thought "why not".
    The views were great. The pod/capsule wasn't crowded but I am glad I didn't wait for half an hour or more.

    From there I took the river cruise down to London Bridge. The cruise was lovely, if a bit short. The guide had a great sense of humour and on his recommendation I decided to give the Tate Modern a miss (half a cow wrapped in plastic, a pile of bricks arranged to look like...bricks). I hadn't actually planned to go anyway.

    Next was the Borough Markets. Like tbe Queen Victoria markets but so much better.
    There was raw cheeses, raw milk being sold as raw milk, cheese direct from the maker. There were butchers selling any British meat and all the game you can think of. Olives, truffles, breads, fruit and so much more.
    I could have bought so much, if I only had a fridge to store it in. I had to be content with lunch of an icecream, game burger and fruit juice as well as looking forward to Paris where I have an apartment.
    From the markets I went to Shakespeare's Globe theatre but disappointingly there was a performance on and so I couldn't go inside.

    I got lots of advice before I started my trip (which I welcomed). One piece I wish I had followed, the other I'm glad I ignored.
    Someone told me not to worry about packing too many clothes as I could just buy stuff over here. I do 90% of my shopping at one store so wasn't confident I'd find much here, and it would be too hard to find anything.
    Oxford st has everything. I did a (little) bit of shoping in Evans and could have bought more but I just bought a short sleeved top.

    Someone else told me not to bother with the underground as it was hot, dirty and difficult but I found the short trip quick and easy.

    A trip to Selfridges completed my day, except for the aforementioned Korean restaurant which was very nice. I found it be simply decided to walk down the street and turning into a sidestreet.

    Photos
    Butcher at the markets
    View from London eye
    Tower bridge
    Salami
    Oils
    Underground
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  • An Impressive Nation

    2016年8月27日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    This is a rambly post so in summary:
    Westminster Abbey - amazing
    Greenwich with Caroline - amazing
    The Bodyguard - amazing

    I'm writing this in the hotel bar as I wait to leave for "The Bodyguard". I had originally intended to see a show last night as I am in the West End. I was so tired I didn't even consider it. It was an effort to go out for dinner.
    Why The Bodyguard? It was my favourite movie ever and ... Actually I chose it because the theatre is just up the road, I didn't have anything I really wanted to see and as I perused my options I thought a musical would be good. I could also buy my ticket as I got off the bus.

    I promise I won't buy a box of chocolates and rustle the papers (can someone please tell me which book that is from, I keep thinking The Ballet Family or Ballet Shoes). On a similar note I walked past Bloomsbury Square gardens and had an urge to dance. Rest assured I didn't.
    [Edit: No-one had boxed chocolates but they did bring their drinks and snacks it. I think I live in the wrong century.]

    I started the day at Westminster Abbey.
    Wow. The building is so old and so impressive. I could have done without the crowds but it was still manageable. I think my favourite (not sure that's the right word) graves were of Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth I. They didn't get on in real life so bury them one on top of the other so they will be together in death. Mary Queen of Scots has her grave exactly on the other side of the Abbey to Elizabeth.
    The actual building is incredible, as are so many of those that I have seen.
    I've never really thought to much about England as a great nation. I know at one stage they controlled a large portion of the world (and indeed all my ancestors are British and Irish) but as an adult I've given more thought to those whose lands they colonized rather than how they did it.

    I met up with my friend Caroline today. We think it has probably been 13 years since we saw each other.
    She met me at Westminster Abbey and after my first cup of tea in England we headed to Greenwich, at Caroline's suggestion.
    The boat trip down was quite quick despite the long stops at several piers.

    After a lunch in the park, which was brown, no greenness here however England is in the middle of a heatwave we went to the National Maritime Museum. Apart from seeing the jacket Nelson was wearing when he was shot, complete with bullet hole we saw some of England's naval history. The boats were were feats of engineering and the paintings gave context.
    We also saw some of the amazing buildings.
    The painted hall and chapel were breathtaking.
    Unfortunately I just missed the last boat to the Thames barrier so just came back up the river.

    I'm now in a little Italian restaurant having dinner. The Bodyguard was amazing. I think it's the first musical I've since I saw Grease at the Burswood Dome in the 90s. I must go more often.

    I can't work out how to add comments to the photos so they are:
    Cloisters at Westminster Abbey
    My cup of tea
    The Painted Hall at Greenwich
    The organ in the Chapel at Greenwich
    Dominion Theatre
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  • Service at St Pauls

    2016年8月29日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Fantastic day today. I started at the Museum of London. Unsurprisingly it gives a great history of London. I spent an hour there going from pre Romans up to the Victorians before going just up the road to St Paul's.

    I attended the Sung Eucharist service and it was one of the highlights of my trip so far. It was certainly a different style of worship to what I am used to. The Cathedral is magnificent, very different to Westminster Abbey. As I was there for a service I didn't take any photos inside.

    The place is large that the voices of the Deacon and Canon echoed throughout the Cathedral as they spoke.
    The majority of the service was sung by the choir, the usual choir is on holiday so it was a visiting choir we heard.
    We were handed an order of service as we entered so I could follow along.
    You'll be please to know that I didn't repeat the faux pas of years ago when instead of offering the greeting of "peace be with you" I was telling people "pleased to meet you"
    Communion was held at the end of the service. I could not bring myself to drink from the communion cup, instead I dipped my wafer in. I know that the cup probably held less germs that what I picked up during the rest of my travels today but I still couldn't do it.

    After the service I returned to the museum to follow London up to the present day.
    I then went to Harrods, more about that later and finished the day sitting in Hyde Park watching the world go by. I didn't see much of the park but what I did see was lovely.
    Photos:
    St Pauls
    St Pauls
    1st car in London?
    1920s dresses
    Hyde Park
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  • A Post Of It's Own

    2016年8月29日, イングランド ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Harrods is so impressive I thought it deserved it's own post (plus I'm only allowed 6 photos per post).
    Getting there was easy, the underground is great although it was a lot busier today than yestetday.
    Getting from Knightsbridge station to Harrods was easier said than done. Between googlemaps not being quite sensitive enough when using walk mode and me having lost all sense of direction I walked twice as far as I needed to.
    A side note - I never realised how much I used the sun to guage my bearings. I was really struging until Caroline pointed out the sun will be in the south, now I just struggle sometimes.

    Well there is no sun in Harrods so I don't have that excuse for getting lost in there. I'm sure one of the reasons everything is so expensive is that you'll buy almost anything if they'll tell you how to get out.

    It was very crowded but I expect that now. I started in the food hall. The cheese! I bought a lobster club sandwich to have when I was finished. There is a photo below of the price/100g of steak. Incredible prices.

    I wandered through perfumes and modern art (neither what I wanted to see) until I found the household goods section and the books. I had a good wander round. Near the gift registry I realised I nothing seemed to have a price on it. The first thing I looked at was the peacock in the photo below. £69,000!!!!
    I then found a cutlery set for about £23,000. Incredible and if I'm honest, a little distasteful.
    The crockery section was amazing. I took these photos for you Jodie but don't expect me to bring anything back for the next high tea.

    Coloured glasswear seems to back in fashion mum. Did you keep all yours?
    And Margaret I'm guessing its been a while since you were at Harrods? The toilets were a big disappointment. Iv'e seen better ones at wineries down south.
    It then took about 30 minutes to find my wayout. The place is huge.

    Photos:
    Cups and saucers
    Steak prices/100g
    Cheese!
    More dining sets
    Coloured glasseear
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  • Very fast trains

    2016年8月30日, ドイツ ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today was a travel day. The Eurostar to Paris and the TVG to Munich (I hope, we are currently stopped somewhere between Ulm and Augsburg).

    The Eurostar was great. I hadn't realised French passport control is at St Pancras. The trip went smoothly and quite quickly, mostly because I hadn't factored in the 1 hour time difference.
    I arrived at Gare du Nord and managed to find my way to Gare de l'Est with the help and hindrance of google maps.
    In my short walk my main impression was lots of people and not very clean (to be fair the area around most major train stations probably isn't very clean.
    Everyone speaks English, as everyone said they would. People have been very helpful and I didn't encounter any disdain for only speaking English. I just say merci a lot.
    The other thing that surprised me, and again maybe it shouldn't is the visible security presence. There was three army(?) guys walking around, each with a big rifle sized gun. As I got on the train there were police and rail security watching us approach the train.
    The TGV has also been very comfotable. The woman in the seat in front of me and I both managed to sit in the right seats in the wrong carriage. The poor teen boys whose seats we were in were very gracious.
    There is a group of young women a few seats up who I really want to go and give the spare headphones I got from the hop on hop off bus. Every hour or so they play music for a few minutes
    We are on the move again. Hopefully we won't be too late getting into Munich. The hotel is a mile up the road from the main train station.
    Photos:
    On the Eurostar
    Crossing the Thames
    French countryside
    Gare de l'Est
    Crosding the Rhine
    German town with a huge cross on the top of the mountain
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  • Activist Juice

    2016年8月31日, ドイツ ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    A slower day today. I am writing this in a beer garden in the English gardens. More about that later.
    I started the day with a hop on hop off bus.
    Last night I walked from the train station to the hotel but with sore feet from all the walking I did in London I wanted to save the walking for touristy things, not getting there.
    The tramline right outside the hotel is being dug up (although I found out later there is a replacement bus) but there is a train station a few minutes from the hotel that takes me into the main station. It took me about 5 minutes but I eventually managed to buy myself a 3 day ticket.

    The sightseeing bus was just okay. The sights are wonderful but the commentary was about 30 seconds behind the bus so somethings were missed. I do have a good idea of the city, there aren't the crowds like I saw on London, given the population is 1.8 million no wonder it feels similar to Perth crowd wise.

    After the tour I made my way to the Viktualienmarkt which is an open air market that sells a lot of bratwurst. It sells much more that that but wurst shops must have made up 1/4 of the shops.
    I received my first "God's greeting" at the market.

    From now until I get to Dijon my posts will most likely contain references to The Chalet School series I read as a child and continue to read as an adult. If you aren't one of the small group who recognise these then ... I don't know, just pretend you do?

    I had bratwurst and krautsalada (badically a cheese kransky and cabbage salad) for lunch at the market.

    The two apps I use most are google maps and now itranslate. Itranslate was very helpful today at the market. I was trying to translate the ingredients in a fresh juice, orange was easy, erdbeere is strawberry but I misspelt ananas and it came out activist! It was actually pineapple.

    I bought several cheeses, ham, liverwurst, olives, tirol schuettelbrot (a really hard flat rye bread but nice), dip, brambleberries, figs, yoghurt and probably other stuff I haven't mentioned.

    There was only one place where the server didn't speak english, she was the one who gave me the first "gruss gott" and I managed to make myself understood and bought some alm butter.

    It was a really nice day until about 3pm or so when it started to get hot. I finished up and came back to the hotel.
    This evening I packed up my purchases and went to the English gardens for a picnic. Rather than gardens it is more of an english park in which you would expect to find deer.
    When the bus entered the park I saw how dense it was in parts so decided to get off one stop earlier where the beer garden was and there were lots of people.
    To give you an idea of the size it has more than 70km of paths.

    As the sun went down I made my way to the beer garden and decided to have a drink. I bought a pretzel as well which I'll have for breakfast.
    The beer garden is the place to go if you want meat and lots of it. People had plates with half a chicken or a massive shank, some just that while others had sides as well.

    Photos
    Berries
    Nymphenburg Castle
    Juice
    Cheese
    Just to prove that it is me - relaxing on the english gardens.
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  • Oh to be a royal Baravian

    2016年9月1日, ドイツ ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    I spent most of the day at Nymphenburg palace today. It was the summer home of Baravian rulers and would have been lovely to live there throughout summer. The buildings are opulent and I can't say the decore was generally to my taste but the grounds! They were so cool even though it was warm in the sun.

    Once I was done I made my way back to the English gardens. This time to the Surfer's wave. The bridge contruction over the Isar resulted in a permanent wave. The signs say it is only for experienced surfers but I am not sure how you become an experienced surfer in Munich. The gardens are so lovely. The spot were I was today had many people sunbathing and playing in the river.

    Lauguage mix up of the day: I had lunch at the palace. The kiosk by the restaurant was self service so I took a tray, lift the lid on a pot to see what was inside (hot potato salad?) I was severely told off by the woman behind the counter. Apparently self service is you take it to the table, not serve yourself from the kiosk.

    Photos:
    A stream at Nymphenburg, my favourite photo of the day.
    Inside the great hall
    Looking from the palace into the gardens
    The dog accommodation in the hunting lodge
    Surfer's wave
    Isar river in the english gardens
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  • A day of contrasts

    2016年9月2日, ドイツ ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    I started the day at Dachau concentration camp. I won't say much but it was a very sobering experience.

    From there I went to Dachau palace. The building wasn't open but the gardens were. They were gorgeous. An old orchard, rose garden and overgrown linden trees. Its up high and had views to Munich and the alps, including the Karwendal range which is where I'll be next week.
    I had a look around the town of Dachau, it is a very pretty town.

    This evening I went into Marienplatz for tea. I found a Baravian restaurant in a building that was over 400 years old.
    I had chanterelle dumplings followed by spatzle with cheese. It was all very nice.

    Photos
    Entry to Dachau concentration camp
    Memorial
    Linden trees
    Dachau town
    Marienplatz
    Atler Hof restaurant
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  • Ups and Downs

    2016年9月3日, ドイツ ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    A bit of slow day today. I think I'm still affected by my visit to Dachau yeaterday and have been quite low today.

    I went to the one of the art galleries which featured a lot of Rubeun paintings. It's not my favourite style of painting and I did feel a bit of a prude by not liking all the bare breasted women, especially by the time I got to the painting titled "Christ and the penitent sinners".
    I'm thinking landscapes may be more my thing.

    I then returned to the Viktualienmarkt for another wander round and a Fischbrotchen (herring with white onion and pickle in a roll) for lunch. It was nice if a bit fishy.

    I walked around the area for a bit before returning to the hotel to do some washing. A load costs €9 ($13.50) to wash and dry!

    I thought I should try out a beer garden as it is Munich. There is one just down the street and it is the second largest in the city. It apparently seats 7000! I'm glad I won't be here during Oktoberfest although originally I would have been but I changed my itinery.
    It was very noisy from the outside and I was a bit concerned it would be full of drunk young people. It wasn't, I think the noise was purely the amount of people.
    I had a slab of roast pork and potatoes, which were cold but still nice.
    I declined a beer, I'm all for trying the food of where you are but I don't like beer and didn't see the point of wasting the money or calories. I could have had a pepsi/fanta mix but opted for cider.

    Tonight is my last night in Munich.
    I like the city, my favourite place would be the English Gardens. The area around Marienplatz would be second.
    The only place I felt a bit iffy is the entrance to the underground and suburban trains opposite the main train station, especially at night as there always seems to be a few men behaving inappropriately.
    The transport system is great; trains, trams and buses. I bought all day tickets and didn't have to show them each time I got on, presumably only if asked by an inspector not that I saw one.

    Photos:
    Painting of Mary and Martha with Jesus
    Konigsplatz
    Apollo the beagle. I could't resist a pat.
    Statue of Mary, which gives Marienplatz its name.
    Beer steins and no, I didn't buy one.
    Augustine Keller Beer garden
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  • Austria at last.

    2016年9月4日, オーストリア ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It has been a dream of mine to come to Austria and in particular Innsbruck and Pertisau for more than 20 years and now I am finally here!
    The train trip from Munich was only two hours. There was only two of us in the compartment for four so we both had plenty of room. He spoke very little english so beyond establishing where we were travelling there was very little conversation. We were delivered newspapers and he very eargerly gave me one saying "english". It was in Italian.
    It took me a few minutes to work out how to get out of the train station, then I went back in to the toilet. I'm still surprised to have to pay for the toilet. These toilets had no seats just meta and were sooo cold.
    The hotel is less than a km from the train station so I walked. It is an old building and my room is the most basic yet I have a beautiful bed and there is a bath in the bathroom and a fridge in the room.
    I was so hot I decided to have a shower before venturing out. The shower is connected to the bath taps and I couldn't work out how to make the water come out of the shower head so I had a cold bath (or maybe chill off if I'm honest) like a good chalet girl. Then I couldn't work out how to pull the plug. I've since worked out both.
    I went looking for the hop on hop off bus, it took me 3 goes to find a stop, I must have had an old map but I had a good look around. The alps are stunning. The Inn valley is at the base of the alps.
    There is a vespa party right outside the hotel. The hotel organised it to raise money for charity. I had some dinner there, some guy tried to offer me a cigarette, pick me up or both. I'm not sure. I just smiled, shook my head and said "english" and that was the end of that.

    Photos
    Street in Innsbruck
    Scenery on train trip
    Hotel Europe
    Alps
    Inn river
    Innsbruck
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  • The Alps

    2016年9月5日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    I had my first contintental breakfast today. There was such a huge variety of cold meats, cheese, salad, breads, fruits, cereals, yoghurts and probably more I have missed. Bacon and scrambled eggs were out and you could order other eggs.

    I ventured up the mountain using the Nordekettebahn. This used a furnicular for the first stage then two cable cars. I went straight to the top as thunderstorms were forecast (not that they arrived). It was breathtaking. It is 2256m and I had a great view. There are trails to go hiking and rock climbing. It is above the tree line and must be even better in the winter.

    I then went down to Seegraube which is the next level down. From there you can clearly see trails down to Hungerburg, the next level.
    From Hungerburg I took the furnicular one stop to the Alpine Zoo. It was still quite a walk to get there.

    The zoo only has Alpine animals. It is on the side of the mountain and so had many levels. I gave up trying to read the map as I was trying to read it as if everything was on one level and it just didn't make sense.

    The book that came to mind today was Clan of the Cave Bear (set in Europe at the time of the Neanderthals if you don't know it). So many of the animals mentioned in the book were in the zoo - lynx, roe dear, bear, bison, ibex.

    The last animal I saw was the bear. It had a huge enclosure complete with stream.

    From the zoo I caught the bus back to the city and wandered through the Old Town. It is indeed old, mostly seeming to date back to the 1600s.
    I saw the Golden Roof and as I didn't have high expectations I was pleasantly surprised at how golden it was.

    Photos:
    View of Innsbruck from Hafelekar (mountain)
    Looking up to Hafelekar from Seegraube.
    Looking down to Innsbruck from Seegraube. You can see the walking paths.
    Lynx
    Bear
    Golden roof
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  • A Chalet girl at last.

    2016年9月6日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    I'm sitting in the lounge at the Hotel Post in Pertisau as I write this. A lot has gone into getting here and its all my Mum's fault. She bought me my first Chalet School book but I digress.

    I started the day at the Museum of Tirolean Regional Heritage. I had thought it was the Tirolean Folk Museum but it was still very interesting. It had a lot of examples of objects and crafts used throughout the years. It was nice to see objects I'd read about and visualised completely wrong, such as stoves that were in the corner of a room and used for heating it. Nothing like what I imagined.

    Next door is the Hofkirche (Court Church). The museum is in a former Abbey. It is a beautiful church dominated by the Cenotaph of Maximilian I.

    After returning to the hotel to check out I made my way to the train station. The next part of the journey had been stressing me a bit as it wasn't prebooked like all my other travel plans. It was simple though, I went to the OBB (Austrian railways) office and told the clerk where I wanted to go and €11 later I had my ticket. I took a Euro City train to Jenbach, bus to Maurach, then another bus to Pertisau.
    My mobile hasn't worked in Austria, I assume Telstra doesn't provide service here so I have been relying on wifi. Innsbruck has great free wifi throughout the city, Pertisau not so much. Apart from knowing the hotel was by the lake I didn't really know where it was. Google maps works enough without internet to show me where I am but didn't provide detail. Eventually I wandered around a bit, found the Information service (it was closed but had maps outside) and realised if I'd stayed on for one more stop the bus would have stopped right outside the hotel door.

    The Hotel Post is lovely. It dates back well over 100 years. I am in a new part of the building and the room is spacious with a king single bed, small dressing table, arm chair and coffee table. I have a balcony which has both lake and meadow views. This is their basic single room!

    After unpacking I went for a walk.
    I found the information service again and bought my Achensee card which will give me free access to the boats, achenseebahn and cablecars. I also saw the EBD plaque.

    A sidenote: The Chalet School series is a series of books written by Elinor Brent-Dyer (EBD) from the 1920s with the last being published in 1970. The first 12 are set in Pertisau. There are many fans worldwide and I am not the first to come here in the footsteps of the Chalet School (and I won't be the last).
    From my balcony I can see the Alpenhof, a deserted hotel thought to be the fictional site of the school. My mum bought me four books in the series (there are over 50) when I was about 10 and had given her $10 of birthday money to buy me second hand books in Getaldton. It was the start of a lifelong interest.

    Anyway...
    I missed lunch so stopped at a cafe for something to eat. The menu had no english translation and the waiter didn't speak english. iTranslate was no help either. I ordered Germknodel which from the allergy ingormation I deduced it was made of flour, milk, eggs and nuts.
    I still have no idea what it was. My best guess is a warm dumpling with apple and jam inside sitting in custard. I'll include a photo and someone maybe able to identify it.

    It was a mistake though. I've booked half-board at the hotel which means breakfast and dinner (dinner is €10!).
    For dinner I had:
    A plate of self serve salad, they even had beetroot!
    Soup: bouillion with profiteroles. I ordered it because I wanted to see the profiteroles (thinking it was a mis-translation) but it had baby profiteroles floating on the top.
    Tirolean ravioli (just one)
    Beef stroganoff, for those ex Dellahale-ites who think I was brave, it was delicious and nothing like what we endured.
    Dessert was an egg liquor cream which as far as I could tell was a mousse like cream on the bottem and a berry liquor reduction on top.
    I declined cheese to finish.

    After hot weather for my entire trip It has turned cold and wet. Pertisau is about 900m above sea level, tomorrow will also be wet but Wednesday should fine up.

    Photos:
    Hotel Post
    Bread cutter at the museum
    Cenotaph at the Hofkirche
    Plaque commemerating Elinor Brent Dyer who used Pertisau as the setting for her books.
    My germknodel
    Boat (I want to call it a steamer) that goes to the various hamlets around the lake.
    もっと詳しく

  • Crisscrossing the lake

    2016年9月7日, オーストリア ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Another wet and cold day today. I timed my walk to the boat nicely, as it was just getting in. I had wanted to go in the other direction (towards Gaisalm) but that was a 45 minute wait so I got on the one heading to Bachau.
    Bachau is on the other side of the lake, we then headed back to the west side to Seespitz which is where the Achenseebahn comes in. I had planned to take the trip to Jenbach but it was too wet and cold. We headed back to Pertisau, then up to Gaisalm. I saw the dripping rock which is where one on the streams(?) coming down the mountain passes over the path. The path from the dripping rock to Gaisalm and then beyond to Scholastica does not look an easy stroll.
    From Gaisalm we went to across to Achenseehof then to Scholastica at the foot of the lake, back to Gaisalm and then Pertisau.
    By then I was thoroughly cold and decided to spend the afternoon relaxing and reading.

    The hotel really is lovely. I have my own set table with my name (Frau Creasy) on a little sign on it. I again skipped lunch but this time didn't have afternoon tea so I was nice and hungry (mind you breakfast was hearty with bircher muesli and egg and toast plus fruit and cheese so it's not like I'm starving).

    Starting with salad is nice, at least I know I am getting a large bowl of veggies. As I helped myself to pickled cauliflower one woman got really excited, called her husband back to the beginning of the table were it was and was visibly disapointed when she realised it was cauliflower. I have no idea what she thought it was!

    The meals have been dainty. My only reference point for a hotel that supplies dinner as well as breakfast is Fawlty Towers. This is nothing like that but it's what I think of everytime I sit at the table and see my little lable.

    Tonight I had melon and proscuitto followed by cream of salsify soup (so nice), duck with potato dumpling and cabbage and then what was described as a cream cheese nougat dumpling with stewed apricots. It had chocolate inside and was delicious. The main is a reasonable size but the other courses are nice and small.

    The dining staff have variable amounts of English. Some a good amount, others none. I rely on nodding and pointing to the menu a lot. I have also added "Ja gut" (yes good) to my vocabulary in response to what I assume is an enquiry as to whether I enjoyed the meal.
    Other than that I find myself watching other people, on the boat we were given a paper ticket, the instructions on which I translated as "keep the ticket until the service goal of the sailor."
    itranslate isn't infallible. So I just watched others and saw them return the tickets so I did so as well.

    Photos:
    Achenseebahn
    Did I mention it was cold?
    Dripping rock
    View from the lake
    Gaisalm
    Looking from Scholastica at the foot of the lake
    もっと詳しく

  • Half term expedition

    2016年9月7日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    This is in response to Phil's wish for me to write more. It is full of Chalet School speak and covers the same day as "up the alm on the back of a truck".

    I realised today and tomorrow are the mid point for my trip so it is obviously half-term.
    In the absence of some hefty seniors to give me a hand over the strenuous parts I opted for alpenstock.
    I had a suitable fruhstuck of porridge (well bircher muesli) and a roll.

    To Gern alm we were headed. I was on the lookout for the hay cart but instead discovered the cheery Tyrolean had a truck and trailer. Forgiving my lack of tobacco he accepted my Euro instead.
    It was a bumpy ride but we eventually made it up the alm. Like any new girl I gushed over the cows with bells on that we saw on our way up.

    It was time for elevenses, I checked my rucksack, alas it was emplty of dainty sandwiches and boiled eggs. It was also empty of water.
    Fortunately there is a gasthaus and I was able to order something to drink and eat. As I have not yet reached "types of studels" when learning my ten German words a day I had to guess at what I was eating. Possibly a cream cheese strudel with vanilla custard, it was nice if a little heavy.

    I cast a surreptitious glance around for Matey, not seeing her I shrugged of my blazer er jacket. I'd risk the chill as it really beautiful day. Taking my alpenstocks I set off on a short walk up to where the river meets the path. It was a big river bed and a small trickle of a river. I checked the season and heaved a sigh of relief but also a small amount of disappointment. Autumn means probably no flash flood but also then no opportunity for the doctor of my dreams to rescue me (although The Doctor of my dreams is number 10 so even more unlikely).
    I met the truck and this time was invited to ride in the trailer.

    On returning to the hotel I had just enough time to fetch my waterbottle and visit the er... splasheries (to tidy my hair of course! Why else would a chalet girl visit there except for a bath!) before catching the bus to Maurach for I am going to the Sonnalpe!
    I briefly contemplated scrambling up, who am I kidding? All along I planned to take the cable car.

    It is cetainly high up, all I can say is that it must have been a small San to fit up here.
    Needing the fresh air to whet my appetite I went for a ramble with Hilda and Freda, as my alpenstocks have named themselves.
    I didn't quite make 10 miles (I doubt I made 1!)
    The gasthous provided a beautiful if late mittegessen.
    I met some people who had walked from Maurach, it took 3 hours. It would have been longer and harder to visit the Sonnalpe surely. Those schoolgirls sure were tough.

    I realised I did not have any new material for my article in the Chaletian so I stopped off at the Vitalberg Museum of Tirolean Shale Oil. I won't spoil the article by giving anything away here.

    As I had missed my midday rest once I returned to the hotel I took my book (ipad) down to the garden (balcony) for some quiet time. Of course silence was required and fortunately there were no prefects around when I spoke to myself. I amused myself watching the paragliders.

    Karen did herself proud at Abendesson.
    Eigan has obviously been fishing. He only caught a few trout though, enough for two mouthfuls each.
    I gave the broth with liver dumplings a miss and had cream of garlic soup instead.
    The lamb rack was delicious.
    I was too full for dessert but it was Sacher torte. The oppurtunity to eat Sacher torte in Austria was too great to pass up so I asked for some napkins and bought it back to my room for a midnight feast.

    Photos
    Looking back at Gern alm
    The Tiern Pass?
    Track from the Sonnalpe to Maurach
    View of Tiern See from the Sonnalpe
    Karlson the 10 yr old beagle who did walk up from Maurach
    Paragliders
    もっと詳しく

  • Up the alm on the back of a truck.

    2016年9月8日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Such a beautiful day today.
    I picked up some hiking sticks from reception and went to wait for the transport to Gern alm, basically a cafe/bnb west of Pertisau at the base of the mountains. A lot of walkers and cyclists stop there before going further.

    The transport was a litle truck pulling a trailer. All very quaint and good fun.
    It is in the Karwendal National park but national parks here aren't like those in Australia. There are people living here and grazing cattle. The cows actually have bells! I could here them as we made our way through the park.

    The gasthaus was cute. I had a strudel of indeterminate nature as the server rattled off all the cakes, I didn't understand most of what she said so I just picked the last thing she said!
    I think it was cream cheese in the strudel. It was nice if a little heavy.

    I then tried my hiking poles out. They definitely made things easier and gave the the confidence to tackle a narrow path. I didn't get far though as I had to be back to catch the truck back to Pertisau.

    I timed it quite well and after a short wait I caught the bus into Maurach and took the cable car up the Rofan mountains.
    This was certainly busier with four alm huttes (restaurants) plus the rofanair, in which you are suspended as if paragliding, sent along a cable then come back at hgh speed. The squeals of fear/excitement spoilt the atmosphere a bit but only a bit.
    I got a bit more adventurous (by my standards) with the walking and spent a pleasant hour or so walking uphill and downhill and sitting, resting and just watching.

    One thing I really struggle with is how to order food at cafes/restaurants. There does't seem to be a clear way to tell if you sit down and order or order from the till. I sat at the alm hutte for about 15 minutes before observing people going inside to order. It has stumped me quite a few times. There is obviously some big social cue I am missing.

    The menu had english translation which listed "vegetarian food with dumplings and ravioli" which sounded interesting. It turned out to be 3 spinach and cheese filled ravioli, a spinach and cheese dumpling and a potato and cheese dumpling. All very nice.

    I headed back to Pertisau and decided to visit the Shale oil museum. It was small but intetesting. One family has been mining shale rock and extracting oil from it for over 100 years. Because of the reasonably high oil content the rocks will actually burn once lit.
    The oil has all sorts of magical properties. I bought some foot cream that will leave my tired feet refreshed! It seems to have peppermint in it as well so my feet will smell nice if nothing else. I changed the blister dressing on my feet last week and it made such a difference. I hadn't realised how painful my feet were until they weren't. They seem fine now, just a bit sore at the end of the day.

    The weather must have been good for paragliding this afternoon. There were 2-3 in the air consistently for about 2 hours. I sat by the lake then on my balcony watching them.

    Photos:
    Gern alm
    The transport!
    Cows with bells!
    The rofan air
    Achensee from Rofan mountain, Pertisau is just vidable in the right of the photo.
    The shale rock is the dark rock.
    もっと詳しく

  • The barenbald alm

    2016年9月8日, オーストリア ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today I went up to the top of Zerwolferkopf in the Karwendal cable car. It is about another 900m up. The is the spot the paragliders leave from. There is a good view of the lake and surrounds, as well across to the Rofan mountains were I was yesterday. The Barendbaldalm is a 30 minute walk from the cable car. Off I went with my trusty walking poles. I was mostly going downhill as the alm is 50m below the level of the cable car. The last 150m or so was rather steep. I appreciated my walking poles.

    I had a rest and a drink at the alm hutte but to be honest I didn't enjoy it that much as I was dreading the walk back up that steep hill. The was a path down towards Maurach that looked a gentle slope and was nice and wide but it had bee marked difficult so I turned back to the easy route.
    Getting up that hill was easier than expected and having the poles definitely made things easier.
    I was up on the mountain much longer than I exoected. I had taken some morning tea with me and ate it at 1pm before boarding the cable car for the journey back.

    Back to the hotel for a cold shower, change of clothes and a quick 10 minute lie down before heading to the lake for the boat to Seespitz.
    From there I caught the Achenseebahn down to Jenbach.
    Apart from the truck ride yesterday all these excursions are covered by my Achensee guest card. We get a basic card from the hotel which gives free bus rides and (I think discounts on the various activities) but by buying the sticker to go on the card for €63 the cable cars, boats, achenseebahn, oil museum have not cost me any extra.

    Anyway, the train is a steam train. Coal smoke stinks. The train was interesting for the first five minutes and then I got to thinking I'm glad train travel has improved as it was very jerky.
    We were in Jenbach for 45 minutes before coming back up. The engine pushed us up the steep part to Eben then moved to the front and pulled as the rest of the way.
    The scenery was interesting, I got to see into people's backyards along some of the way. Other parts were pure forrest.
    We got back to Seespitz in time to catch tne boat back to Pertisau.

    Dinner was a bit of a let down tonight. Both the service and food had been great up until now. I have a new waiter, he doesn't speak a lot of english (but more than my german).
    We get the menu at breakfast and have to choose our main meal from a choice of three then.
    Today my menu was in german. I translated the three mains as: rust roast; calf goulash; and potato and zucchini bake. I opted for the veggie bake.
    The service wasn't great.

    There won't be a CS version tonight. I am really tired. When I planned to do this blog I thought I'd be sitting in my room all by myself and it would give me something to do.
    Most nights I've written it in the lounge/bar of where I been staying, if I write it in my room it has been in bed because I am so tired (like tonight!)

    Photos:
    Paraglider
    Looking down on Pertisau
    The dreaded hill, it was a lot worse that it looks!
    Looking towards the Rofan mountains, where I was yesterday
    Achensee bahn
    Drawing if Hotel Post circa 1930
    もっと詳しく

  • Half term expedition part 2

    2016年9月10日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    This is the second half of my Chalet journal, it covers Thursday and Friday.

    Thursday, it was one of the Chalet Girls' favourite walks, so easy even the young girls can manage easily - to Barebald alm.
    It was a warm day so Matey decreed no blazers were necessary.
    Hilda, Freda* and I set off to the base of the alp. Going up was easy, Joey was right! Although she may not have been referring to the Karwendal cable car.
    At the top I paused to watch men jumping off the mountain - paragliders. I took some snaps with my kodak.

    Consulting the map I determined the route, noting that the routes back down to Pertisau seemed to be marked difficult.
    Hilda, Freda and I set off at a slow trot, covering the ground reasonably easily.
    Then we came in sight of the alm! I quaked at the path leading down. Hilda and Freda quietly encouraged me all the way down.
    We eventually made it and stopped to appreciate the view. I could see across to the Sonnalpe.
    We weren't due for elevenses until we were back at the cable car so we begged a drink from the alm hutte.
    Their "alm dudler" (apple juice) went down a treat. After a short rest we went along the nice wide path that leads back to Pertisau. I was tempted to try it but my guides reminded me that many a Chalet girl has gotten into trouble choosing the easy looking path (a metaphor for life?) so I reluctantly turned back to that uphill slope. With H and F's help and ecouragement I made it up the slope with far less difficulty than I had expected.
    We made our way back to the cable car and I discovered that my watch had stopped (ie I hadn't checked the time on my phone) and it was 1pm! A stop for late elevenses was in order. Today I had it with me, a pastry left over from breakfast. H and F were maintaining there stick thin figures and went without.

    Back down the mountain we went.
    The aftetnoon's expedition was the steam railway - the Achenseebahn. I had come up to the lake via the coach road and so had not experienced this important part of Chalet life.
    H and F, having done the trip many times remained behind.

    First I caught the boat to Seespitz.
    A thought occurred to me - did the CS girls have season tickets for the boats? Maybe it was included in the fees? They seem to use them a lot, and not always planned.

    Anyway... The train was waiting at Seespitz. I hope the carriages have changed since the 1930s, or it had a luggage compartment as I can't imagine fitting all the luggage in.

    The ride down was quite jerky in places.
    The coal smoke smelt terrible. It was brown so soft coal?
    The view was good though, through towns, forrest and open country. The next trip back to Seespitz was the last trip up so I had some plum kuchen at the railway station then we made our way back up. If I thought the trip down was jerky, the trip up was more so.
    The boat was waiting as we reached Seespitz so it was an easy transfer back to the hotel.

    Yesterday it was time to tackle the Dripping rock and Gsisalm, an easy stroll apparently. H and F agreed to accompany me and I'm glad they did. It started out as any easy stroll but soon the wide flat path gave way to a narrower path of loose rock or dirt. It went up and down a fair bit. I had agreed with H and F I would turn back if it was too difficult.
    Turning the corner to see the dripping rock was amazing. I'd seen one of the iconic sights in the CS books. The narrow path doesn't encourage stopping for long although one rambler, on observing me stopping to take pictures stopped as well.

    Now, to go forward or turn around? I'm no spineless jellyfish (not suggesting anyone who did turn around is 😀) so I kept ongoing. The track got tougher but H and F kept encouraging me to lean on them, (Freda may well have a dislocated shoulder after some of those big step downs).
    But we made it! We made it to Gaisalm which has a gasthaus and nothing else.
    Just enough time to purchase a drink and then we caught the boat back.

    Time for lunch. I had not yet called in to see Herr Braun at the Kron Prinz Karl (Furstenhaus) so this was a great opportunity.
    Herr Braun has done well for himself. The hotel has been extended and is beautiful inside.
    I decided to eat in the beer garden. H and F were horrified and lay on the ground in protest.
    I didn't have the energy to translate the menu so chose frankfurters and pommes fries assuming I would get a nice sausage, no I got exactly what it said, hot dogs (without the red skin) and chips. Never the less it was fine.

    I had a dilemma. I heard a rumour at breakfast of a night cruise on the lake. But would it be suitable entertainment for a gracious lady such as myself. I was tempted to sneak out but
    a) that is not honourable
    b) I did't want Joey to have to rescue me and
    c) I didn't want bronchitis or pneumonia

    Fortunately Herr Braun advised that the entertainment would be suitable and that the rocks by Gaisalm would be lit up and it was a spectacular sight.

    Back to the hotel then for a rest. There was a strudel buffet in the restaurant but not having yet learnt the german strudel words, plus I'd need an early abendssen I gave it a miss.

    H and F declined to accompany me on the night cruise (sticks in the mud they are!)

    The cruise was lovely. I must work on my german as I couldn't understand what the musicians were saying.
    The views were lovely. I took my blazer so was able to spend a good portion of the cruise on the deck.
    Well worth it.

    Time to bid the Tiernsee goodbye.

    *Hilda and Freda were my walking poles.

    Photos:
    Another view of the Dripping Rock
    Alpenhof
    There are many of these shrines(?) all throughout the Achensee. This one is at the Barenbald alm.
    Look at the shadow of the steamtrain.
    Pertisau by night
    Rocks by Gaisalm
    もっと詳しく

  • The Dripping Rock and Gaisalm

    2016年9月10日, オーストリア ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Today I set out to see if I could walk to the Dripping Rock and beyond to Gaisalm.
    My walk to the Barenbald alm gave me the confidence to try.
    It was a lovely morning, cool but not cold, overcast.
    The walk starts out very easy, a stroll along the path at the lake's edge. It was really pleasant. The water in the lake is so clear.
    The path started to rise and fall. In the worst parts a metal rope has been attached to the rock wall.
    The dripping rock is a spot where water comes down the mountain and crosses the path. A corrugated iron roof has been erected.
    I had a taste of the water coming off the roof - it tasted like the rusty water we would drink from the tops of rusty 44 gallon drums afte rain when we were kids.

    At the dripping rock I had to decide whether turn back to Pertisau or continue to Gaisalm. I decided to keep going as I knew I was more than half way.
    The going did get tougher but still manageable with my walking poles.

    Not far from Gaisalm is a section of loose rock that I had to walk across. I was looking for the path on the other side and saw a metal rope pegged into the wall on the other side. I nearly cried as there was no way I could pull my self up that! Fortunately there was a pathway and crisis averted. I made it to Gaisalm more than 2 hours after I left Pertisau (I'm not sure exactly when I left).
    I just had enough time for a drink before catching the boat back to Pertisau.

    Photos
    Dripping rock
    Footpath from Pertisau
    How clear the lake water is
    Part of the path
    The dreaded rope
    Gaisalm
    もっと詳しく

  • Farewell to the Achensee

    2016年9月11日, オーストリア ⋅ 🌫 10 °C

    I had a fantastic time in Pertisau. The Hotel Post was a great hotel. I'm in Innsbruck for the night as my train is at 7:40 in the morning.

    Last night I did the night cruise on the lake. Unfotunately I couldn't understand the musicians but they were apparently very funny. I know they made a joke about the Dutch (a high percentage of tourists of Pertisu are Dutch apparently). The music was good though, kind of a cross between folk and country.

    This morning I had a wander around Pertisau before heading down to Jenbach and then caught the train to Innsbruck. I did some washing before heading back to the same hotel I stayed in last weekend. I obviously had a room upgrade last time. My room tonight is fine but a king single instead of a double bed, no bath, a smaller chair.

    After checking in I went up to the Tirol Panorama, a museum which contains a huge painting that you stand in the middle of a round room and the painting is a continous scene all around the walls. The scene is of the battle between the Baravians and Tirolese in 1809.

    I then went to the ski jump next to the panorama, simply because I was asked I wanted to go when I bought my museum ticket.
    It was really interesting and very high up. I'm not normally too bothered by heights but whatever the pavers at the very top are laid on, they wobble when you walk on them. Most disconcerting!

    A thunderstorm came in late this afternoon, lots of thunder and lightning.

    Dinner ended up being at a very nice Italian restaurant. It was raining heavily and the restaurant was nice and close to the hotel. I do miss the half board arrangement I had at the Hotel Post!
    I had an octopus salad followed by a mushroom and chanterelle pasta, yum!

    Photos:
    Traditional chalet
    Hot air balloon over Achensee
    Tirol Panorama
    Looking down the ski jump
    Looking up at the ski jump
    View of the Inn valley from the top of the ski jump
    もっと詳しく

  • Solo travel

    2016年9月11日, スイス ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    (I realise after two and a half weeks I am not an expert. These are just my thoughts),

    If it hasn't been obvious, I am travelling solo.
    Many people were surprised when they learnt that not only was I going on my own but that I wasn't doing a tour.
    I like my "alone time" as my nephew used to call it and always have. I seem to need more than the average person (or I just never learnt how to live with other people - ask my sister 😀).
    I never had any hesitation in setting off solo.

    I am a people pleaser by nature and travelling solo means I am not spending a lot of mental energy making sure the other person is having a good time, often to the detriment of myself.

    The good parts:
    The obvious one is that I set the agenda and can change plans whebever I want or need to.
    The other day after the walk to Gaisalm I had planned to go on to Scholastika to the museum but as the walk took it out of me and the timing would be tight I gave it a miss. If I'd been with someone else I would have felt pressured (by me not them) to keep going.
    Want to sit by the lake for half and hour and just look at it? No worries.
    To me spending the extra money to travel first class on the trains has been worth it, not everyone would see it that way.

    No one is there to see my stuff ups, yesterday I got on the tram for the Tirol Panorama, went two stops and realised I was going the wrong way. I go the wrong way a lot when using google maps. I now get that the sun travels across the southern sky but I still have to stop and get my bearings - if that is south then north is this way.

    There is no one to watch me take forever to get myself settled on the train. I watch other people just sit down. I put my backpack up on the shelf, then take it down again, get something out, put it up again, pull something out of my handbag, put my handbag down, pick it up again to check the ticket.

    There is no one to roll their eyes when I spend half an hour playing pokemon at Zurich train station (I had wifi and was within two pokestops that had lures).

    It's a lot cheaper, for experiences anyway. I presume the accommodation is more expensive.
    Overspending on the dinner budget because you walk into a fancy restaurant and sit down before you look at the menu is cheaper when it is only €20 more than you planned instead of €40 or more.

    I can be as cautious as I need to be without driving someone else nuts. Want to be at the train station half and hour before the train leaves even though 5 minutes is more than plenty? Go for it.

    Lastly - I'll still be talking to all my friends and family when I get home.

    The not so good parts:
    There is no one to watch my stuff so I have to take it with me.
    Trying to squeeze myself, a suitcase and backpack into a toilet cubicle is sometimes easier said than done.
    The other day at the gasthaus I had to order at the counter and give my table number. While I was inside ordering someone else sat at the table. Fortunately I was able to sit at the table next door.

    The looks you get from restaurant wait staff when you eat on your own. Usually I pull out my phone but sometimes the place is too up market for that.
    Having no one to talk to over a meal at a restaurant.

    The language. I'd probably be more confident to try out french and german if I had someone with me. I've managed to comminicate fine, even on the very few occasions the person hasn't spoken english. I haven't spoken a lot of it though.
    I did absorb more german than I realised though. Today I found myself looking for "ausgang" (exit) signs at the Dijon train station rather than "sortie".
    I also want to say "danke" instead of merci.

    The vague concerns of what if something goes wrong. One of the reasons I check in so much on facebook is so people know where I am/last was.

    So far do I regret it? No way!

    Today:
    I left Innsbruck at 7:40 this morning for Zurich. There was another train at 9:40 but that only gave me 14 minutes to change trains. We were 25 minutes late into Zurich so I am glad I played it safe.
    What I saw of Zurich was lovely. It sits on a huge lake. Makes the Achensee look tiny. I saw quite a few Swiss flags flying from buildings, not something I saw in Munich or Innsbruck.

    After two hours at Zurich train station I boarded the train for Paris. It was quite empty until we got to Basle, then the carriage filled up. I got off at Dijon and a lot of people got on. The train was non stop from Paris to Dijon.

    My first impression of Dijon? It's an old city. Innsbruck has it's Old Town but that, as beautiful as it is, has had regular maintenaince to keep it looking bright and old. Dijon's buildings (what I've seen) are old (not run down, just showing their aga).
    I'm in a gorgeous hotel not far from the centre of Dijon. My travel agent may not have been able to book train tickets but she did book good hotels. So far they have all been within walking distance of the main train station (except London but that was by the tube and buses).

    Photos:
    Austrian village
    The farms had these little sheds, at leadt one per field in some areas
    It's hard to tell but the rivers are an icy green colour
    Swiss village
    Cathedral in Dijon
    Dijon street
    もっと詳しく

  • The Owl's Path

    2016年9月13日, フランス ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Dijon is a beautiful city. I have worked out why it seems so old to me - there are no trees in the streets. They are in fenced off parks (and maybe courtyards, the walls facing the street aren't necessarily house walls but lead into courtyards that people drive into).

    There is no hop on hop off bus here, instead there is a walk called the owl's path. It takes you past many of the historical sites, following little triangles in the footpath (and with the help of a gps guided app).
    It was a nice way to see the town.
    A lot of places are shut on Mondays and those that are open seem to close 12-2pm.
    I stopped at a patisserie and picked up some rolls and an apple tart before coming back to the hotel. I ended up falling asleep. I'm finding one day a week I need half a day to relax and recharge.

    I'm eating in the hotel restaurant tonight.
    I decided to have the house aperitif which I think is a mix of a local white wine and orange perfumed ginger syrup. It is nice but like most alcohol for me, I drink it for the experience rather than the enjoyment.

    It's been interesting to compare the breakfasts in the different hotels in London, Pertisau/Insbruck and now Dijon (I self catered in Munich).

    The english breakfast was all about the hot food - two types of eggs; sausages (meat and vegetarian); bacon, lots of bacon; hash browns; baked beans and I'm sure there was more hot food. Both white and wholemeal sliced bread as well as rolls and some pastries.

    The Austrain breakfasts had multiple types of wholemeal/multigrain/rye breads (not sliced), rolls, one type of egg available and one made to order (bolied or scrambled) and sliced white bread for toast. The pastries and flavoured breads (chocolate bread covered in chocolate) range was huge.The cold meats and cheese range was huge and cut up salad items were also available.

    The french breakfast this morning had one small loaf of dark bread, the rest was types of white bread and rolls. No sliced bread. Croissants and pain au chocolat were the only pastries (I think). Small fluffy pancakes were also availabe.
    The only eggs available were scrambled and they were delicious, so light and fluffy.
    A small range of cold meats, no smoked salmon which was available in England and Austria.

    The food tonight has been exquisite. I tried to choose french foods although I did pass on the steak tartare. If it had been an entree size I may have tried it.
    I started with a ham and asparagus terrine. The ham wasn't sliced thinly but had been slow cooked and pulled off the bone. It was served with some type of foam with mustard seeds through it.
    Main was roast guinea fowl and asparagus. It was okay but a bit gamey for me taste.
    Dessert combined some of Dijon's specialities - blackcurrent sorbet and gingerbread served on a meringue. Very nice.

    I just watched the steak tartare being made at the table. At first I thought they were making a dressing for ceaser salad and putting semi dried tomatoes in it but when he started piling the dressed "tomatoes" on the plate into a large mound I realised it was the steak tartare.

    I made myself use some french phrases tonight: "table for one", "speak english", "bill please". I couldn't manage full sentences but it is a start.
    I still want to use Ja instead of oui.

    Photos
    The owl at Notre Dame Cathedral, it lacks detail because people rub it for luck.
    Owl path marker
    Dijon street
    Ducal palace
    Ham and asparagus terrine
    Dessert
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  • Of transport and toilets

    2016年9月13日, フランス ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    I had a few plans for today, they didn't quite work out but the alternatives were good.

    I started the day out at The Market. It is a fresh food market with lots of fruit and veg, cheese and meat.
    All the chickens still had their feet and heads attached. I can understand the feet but do people cook the heads as well?
    They had raw milk and raw cream!
    All I bought was a nectarine but it was delicious.
    The range of onions they had was huge.

    It was here I had my first trouble with the toilet. I didn't have to pay, which is a first for me in France but there was no toilet seat. Why do they do this?
    I couldn't work out how to flush it. It looked like the button had its cover missing but no matter how much I pushed and jiggled - no result. In the end I took the top off the cistern to try pushing down directly. In the process of all of this I pulled up on the apparatus - success! Seriously you pull up on the button to flush.

    I had planned next to take a bus to a village not to far away. I eventually found what I thought was the bus stop, near a park so I sat in the park and waited and waited. The bus was there but no driver. I eventually gave up, bought an all day ticket for Dijon public transport and got on a tram (there are only two tram lines in Dujon). I stayed on the tram until the end if the line. I was hoping it was somewhere interesting but it appeared to be a commercial area. I got off the tram, waited for it to change tracks and got back on.
    I got off at Republic square and had some lunch, a ham and cheese roll from a food van and sat in the square.

    I decided to go out to Lake Kir, a manmade lake on the outskirts. After waiting for the bus on the wrong side of the road, I crossed the road to discover the bus didn't stop at that stop, watched it go round the corner, found the right stop and waited for the next bus I got on about 30 mins after I arrived at the first stop.

    There were about 3 stops alongside the lake according to google maps. I should have gotten off at the first stop, I didn't. So I stayed on the bus until most others got off so I got off too. I think it was a residental village so I crossed the road and waited for the bus to come back. I got a strange look from the bus driver.

    This time I got off at the correct stop.
    There is a small weir which was pretty.
    On reading the signs I noted there were toilets down by the beach. I hadn't been since the flushing debacle about 5 hours earlier (you needed to know that didn't you).
    The beach was fine dirt by a part of the lake that had some kind of net to keep the algae out. People were sunbaking but no one swimming.

    Anyway, to the toilets I went. Yeh, no. They were squat toilets. I'm too old and too inflexible to start using squat toilets. I didn't need to go that badly.

    I went for a walk around the lake and found the canal that runs past it. There was a lock there so I was able to have a look. I still don't understand properly how they work but it was cool to see one.

    Back to the hotel for a rest (I had to wait 20 minutes for the bus, having missed the previous one by 2 minutes)

    I had planned to go to the hotel's other restaurant but it turns out they have two restaurants and one menu.

    So back to the same square as Sunday night. This time I sat at a skewer restaurant.
    I had sausage skewers and then duck on a skewer. The servings were huge. There's no low carb here. Both courses came with potato and they also brought bread.
    Do Perth restaurants give out complimentary bread anymore? I've had it at each meal here.

    Tomorrow I head to Paris. I have mixed feelings about it. I've said all along I know God knows how many days I have, where I am won't change that but now I need to put that faith into practise. Untested faith is easy.

    About half an hour ago 4 people rode up on 3 motorbikes, all dressed in leather and with helmets on, revving their bikes as some do. I did watch them carefully, especially the passenger. Obviously nothing happened but with the arrest of a cell in Germany it does make you think.
    I'm self catering in Paris so I don't plan on going out much at night.

    Photos:
    Lock on Burgandy canal
    Live sea snails
    Onions!
    House in random little town the bus took me to.
    Lake Kir
    Beach at lake Kir
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  • Paris in an afternoon

    2016年9月14日, フランス ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I'm in Paris. The trip from Dijon was about an hour and a half. I definitely prefer travelling by train.

    My check in luck abandoned me here. Up until now if I've arrived before check in time my room has been ready. I knew I was pushing it arriving at 12 but thought I'd try.
    I was able to leave my luggage so then set out to explore the local area. Around the corner was a metro stop. "Why not?" I thought? After several goes I found the entrance for those without tickets, negotiated the ticket machine and bought a 5 day ticket.
    Next hurdle was working out how to get through the entrance gate. After trying to swipe it (like those with cards did) I realised I had to feed my little piece of paper into a slot and it popped out again 20cm further up the gate.

    I was in, now where to go? There are two lines at the station so four options. Luckily the first train I got on (without consulting the map) took me to the Louvre.
    From there I was able to find the hop on hop off bus and spent a lovely 2 hours seeing the major sights of Paris.
    By the time I had completed the circle I was ready to head back to the hotel.

    Around the corner is a small supermarket, bakery, fruit and veg shop and a butchet. I picked up enough supplies to cook tea. It was nice to have a home cooked meal.
    I have vague plans for tomorrow but apparently there is a general strike planned so I will play it be ear.

    Photos
    Eiffel tower
    Countryside between Dijon and Paris
    River Seine
    Acr de Triomphe
    Louvre
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