Pohnpei

July 2003
Working trip sponsored by my client. Read more
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  • 6days
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  • 10.6kkilometers
  • 10.6kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Prologue

    July 18, 2003 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    In July 2003, a client of mine - a highly-respected not-for-profit organization serving Pacific island communities - asked if I would travel to Pohnpei, capital of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM), to make a presentation to their board. Micronesia? All expenses paid trip to a remote Pacific island most people have never heard of? Hell yes!

    To top that, I get to tick off one more item on my bucket list: flying on Continental Micronesia's Island Hopper service. This flight is legendary among airline geeks. It operates between Honolulu and Guam with five (!) stops en route: Majuro and Kwajalein in the Marshall Islands, and Kosrae, Pohnpei and Chuuk in the Federated States of Micronesia. There used to be a sixth stop - Johnston Atoll - until the US decommissioned their facility there. Total travel time on the B737-800 that plies this 4,300 mile route is approximately 14 hours. I was bummed that I would not be able to fly all the way to Guam on this flight, but I can still claim bragging rights regardless!

    The ticket my client purchased had me in Pohnpei for three full days plus two partial days. I was expected to make a presentation lasting an hour (not including prep and questions), and attend opening ceremonies for a conference and the odd function here and there. Beyond that, it was all free time!

    My client’s travel agent initially booked me in BusinessFirst because the flight was fully booked, but a week before departure Economy must have cleared somewhat and I got an Economy ticket. Darn!

    It was a long 9.5 hour journey to get from Honolulu to Pohnpei, but I was awake and excited every minute of it! The Guam-based flight crew are among the friendliest I have encountered.
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  • Day 1

    Honolulu to Majuro

    July 18, 2003 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS957 | HNL/MAJ
    Economy Class
    N14250 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/0706 | ATA/1012+1

    I arrived at HNL at 0545. There were about a dozen people in line for the Island Hopper. As this was an international flight, I could not use the automated check-in kiosks. There were four check-in desks open for the flight. I waited in line for about 10 minutes before reaching the desk. While in line, I had a pleasant chat with the passenger in line ahead of me, who was a retired guy traveling to MAJ to do some fishing.

    I presented my Singapore passport to the check-in agent and he asked me if I needed a visa to enter the Federated States of Micronesia. I said that I did not need one for visits of less than 90 days, and he seemed to take my word for it. I had originally been assigned seat 7E, and I asked him if I could have an aisle. He said that the flight was oversold, but he did get me seat 22D, which I gratefully accepted.

    There was only a short line at security, and I cleared through in no time. I then took a short detour to Starbuck’s, and then backtracked to Gate 14. Already at the gate was the CEO of my client company as well as some of his staff. As we were expecting some aspects of my presentation to be slightly contentious, I was advised by them not to discuss my presentation and project until we were behind closed doors in Pohnpei because some board members were on the same flight.

    Boarding commenced at about 0630, with BusinessFirst boarding first, followed by OnePass elite members, then passengers with infants. After that, they called passengers in rows 21 to 29. Upon boarding, I saw that the 738 was very clean and the cabin looked very smart. They had pop down screens and on it they played images of reefs, alternating with screens saying “35 Years at Home in the Islands”. I guessed that this is the 35th anniversary of the Island Hopper, and the Purser’s first announcement confirmed this. In the seat pocket were two different inflight duty free magazines, one of which was completely in Japanese.

    As I settled into my seat, a very large man who needed a seatbelt extension sat at the window seat. Luckily there wasn’t anyone occupying the middle seat – I would have felt very sorry for them. Boarding was completed at about 0650. The Economy cabin was only about 70% full, so I guess the overbooking wasn’t on the HNL-MAJ sector but perhaps on the other segments.

    Before closing the aircraft door, a gate agent announced on the aircraft PA that all bags had been loaded, and he went on to say that we should approach the local ground staff immediately if our bags are not received at the destination. I had been told by my client to avoid checking in baggage because bags frequently got mishandled, and this confirmed that there indeed was a problem on this service. This comes as no surprise as this is a multi-sector flight with bulk loaded bags and cargo. I guess the announcement was made so that passengers whose bags had not been offloaded could alert the ground staff who could hopefully alert the ramp staff to look for the missing bags if the aircraft was still on the ground.

    Cabin doors were closed at 0655, and we pushed back a few minutes late at 0706. The safety demonstration featured Gordon Bethune welcoming passengers on board, and he stressed that CO still provided meals on board and other “things that make service a priority at CO”. After that, the SVP of Flight Operations (a woman captain) was featured, followed by three Guam-based flight attendants, and then one each from Houston, Tokyo and Palau. It has been more than a year since I flew CO, and I don’t seem to recall so many Pacific-based flight attendants on the video. I wonder if Continental Micronesia has its own safety video.

    Taxi to runway 08R (the reef runway) was long, and takeoff commenced at 0724. Takeoff roll was very short, and before long we were on our way. We reached cruising altitude at 32,000 feet relatively quickly, and the flight attendants walked through the cabin with arrival forms for the Marshall Islands for passengers disembarking at MAJ and KWA. This aircraft did not feature personal inflight entertainment screens. The flight attendants also walked down the aisle with headsets for sale, but I decided not to purchase them because the movies they were screening on this flight and on the return sector were made-for-tv movies that didn’t appear too interesting. Hardly anyone watched the movies. Scanning through the entertainment guide, I saw that most of the movies systemwide were rather mediocre. I wonder why CO has such poor programming?

    Breakfast was served very quickly after we reached cruising altitude. We had a choice of egg or pancakes, and I chose the eggs. I got an omelet, a small sausage and a small tomato on a bed of rice. I usually cannot handle rice for breakfast, but my body clock was on West Coast time and I was hungry, so I wolfed it all down. Also on the tray were a cup of orange juice, a fruit plate, a croissant, and jam and butter. Not surprisingly, the croissant was hard. The drinks cart came right after that and I had a coffee. Breakfast items were cleared very quickly, which was a bit of a surprise to me because on my limited experience with CO they tended to give passengers a generous amount of time to finish eating. In fact, the passenger across the aisle was scrambling to finish his meal.

    90 minutes in the flight, we encountered some turbulence and the seatbelt sign remained lit for about 30 minutes. We encountered another brief bout of turbulence later. During the flight, the flight attendants walked through the cabin twice with water, and a bar service was done an hour before landing. We were given a triple chocolate chip cookie each, and a drink of our choice. Typically for CO, they did not give us the entire can.

    The signage on this aircraft is a mystery to me. The emergency exit signs were in English and Chinese. In the lavatory, some signs were in English and Japanese, some in English/Chinese, and some in English and Tagalog (I recognized the Tagalog word for trash - "basura"). I wonder why they did not standardize all signs with two or three languages, especially since this is a very new aircraft.

    We began our descent into MAJ and flew into dense clouds and bad turbulence. I’m not a nervous flyer but this time I put down my seat arm and held on. Some people screamed as the aircraft shook. Once we cleared this cloud, it was smooth sailing and we touched down on a very sunny MAJ runway and taxied to the terminal at the end of the runway.
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  • Day 2

    Majuro to Kwajalein

    July 19, 2003 in Marshall Islands ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS957 | MAJ/KWA
    Economy Class
    N14250 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1049 | ATA/1137

    Transit passengers were allowed to disembark and most passengers took the chance to walk around MAJ. Walking out of the aircraft was like walking into a wall of hot air, as it was very humid. The sun was so bright that my eyes hurt. On the horizon were dozens of little islands. MAJ was right on the coast, and on the tarmac was an Air Kiribati ATR42 or ATR72 (not sure which one) and a small turboprop that was probably private-owned.

    I walked into the terminal. Baggage claim was a small metal counter about six feet long. I went to the bathroom – it was really smelly! From there, I went to the departure hall – it had four check-in counters and several souvenir stands selling stuff made of straw and beads. There was one bar/restaurant. There were lots of people all over the departure hall, and many others lined up along the perimeter fence. I later noticed that this was the same at all the airports we landed at. In the departure hall, I saw that flight attendant Evelyn had also disembarked and she was chatting with some people. Presumably she was from MAJ.

    I made my way back to security – they were rushing us because they wanted to get all transit passengers through before processing the Aloha Air passengers (apparently only one flight at a time could clear security). I walked through two metal detectors without setting them off, but I was still wanded by the security agent, as were all other passengers. I was even asked to take off my shoes. From there, I walked onto the tarmac to see that an Aloha Air 732 had just landed and that their passengers were disembarking. I walked back to my aircraft, and the International Service Manager Ron greeted me and we struck up a brief conversation. He told me he was surprised that about 60 paxs were going to PNI, and I told him that there was a conference there starting Monday.

    I went back to my seat and struck up a conversation with my seatmate, a Samoan travelling to Pohnpei for the conference. I noticed that there were about 20 new passengers, about half of whom were Asian. The flight still was only about 80% full. Mercifully, the seat next to me remained unoccupied.

    There was no taxiway at MAJ. The aircraft backtracked on the runway, turned around, and took off for KWA. Flying time was 42 minutes. We were served a fruit juice – it tasted like diluted passionfruit juice – and before long we descended to land on a very wet runway at KWA. On the ground at KWA were three military aircraft. I couldn’t identify the type but they looked old, and I couldn’t help but think that this was the Marshall Islands’ entire air defense system.
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  • Day 2

    Kwajalein to Kosrae

    July 19, 2003 in Marshall Islands ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Continental MicronesiabCS957 | KWA/KSA
    Economy Class
    N14250 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1217 | ATA/1225

    Transit passengers were not allowed to disembark at KWA. About ten passengers disembarked, and about another ten came on board. Thankfully, the seat next to me remained empty. Customs and immigration forms for the Federated States of Micronesia were distributed while we were on the ground, and the bar cart was replenished.

    Unlike MAJ, KWA had a taxiway parallel to the runway, and the runway looked as if it was significantly longer. This should be no surprise given that KWA is a military installation used by the US. We taxied to the end of the runway and took off into the cloudy skies above KWA. The climb to cruising altitude was bumpy. Flying time to KSA was about one hour, and we adjusted our watches back one hour to FSM time. (The Marshall Islands are 22 hours ahead of HNL and we crossed the international date line en route).

    A snack was served as soon as we reached cruising altitude. It came on a small tray and consisted of a bun with two very thin slices of ham and a leaf of lettuce, pineapple cubes, and a pack of cookies. The drinks cart came about and this time I got a whole can of diet coke. After that, the flight attendants came round to clean up, and Ron, the International Service Manager, pitched in. I jokingly asked him why he was slumming it out in coach and he laughingly replied that he always helps out where needed.

    Before long, we started descending over a beautiful mountainous island with lush greenery. Landing was smooth, and we turned around at the end of the runway to get to the terminal.
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  • Day 2

    Kosrae to Pohnpei

    July 19, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS957 | KSA/PNI
    Economy Class
    N14250 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1315 | ATA/1417

    Transit passengers were allowed to disembark at the airport. There were no other aircraft on the tarmac.

    In the check-in hall, there were several vendors. Most of them sold tangerines (I later found out that they were widely regarded as the best around), chili lime sauce, and various trinkets. One also had a mangrove crab on sale for $8, and another sold jars of local shellfish preserved in a lime juice-based brine. Even the Captain and First Officer disembarked to buy tangerines. I took the chance to chat with them, and they said that they flew all six sectors through to Guam. The Captain said that this wasn’t too tiring because the skies and airports were uncongested and there weren’t too many hassles to deal with. As with Majuro, the hall was filled with people. Over the PA system, a CO staff was asking for volunteers to offload themselves because the flight was oversold.

    I made my way back to the departure hall (which had only two check-in counters), past security and back onto the aircraft where I lined up to use the lavatory. Inside the galley, Evelyn was cutting slices off a quarter of a watermelon, and she offered me some, which I gratefully accepted. As soon as I got back to my seats, I warned the large guy at the window that the plane was likely to be full. To my surprise, no one claimed the seat between us, and I could count about ten empty seats when the door was closed. I wondered why they were making announcements in the terminal asking people to volunteer to fly another day, and I guessed it was because of weight restrictions. This was confirmed later – a day after my arrival in PNI I learned that quite a number of passengers were denied boarding at KSA, including one of my client’s staff who was boarding there.

    The aircraft taxied to the other end of the runway, turned around, and the pilots revved up the engines while the brakes were still on. This caused the aircraft to shake quite a bit. They then disengaged the brakes, and the engines roared as we began the takeoff roll. Takeoff was very powerful and we were up in no time. I later found out that because the runway at KSA is short, even the smallest amount of rain would cause some CO pilots to overfly KSA. There was a slight drizzle that day, and the pilots must have been concerned. This probably also explains the denied boarding at KSA. I also learned from someone at PNI that CO recently told KSA that they must improve the runway, otherwise they may consider withdrawing service. Apparently, Chuuk was given this same ultimatum a few years ago and they now have a much better runway.

    Flying time to PNI was about 56 minutes. The flight attendants came round with snacks. Ron distributed the mini pretzels and he gave a chuckle about my “slumming it” comment when he handed me my pack. Evelyn took my drink order, and she laughed heartily when I asked for watermelon juice. In the end I settled for yet another diet coke, and I didn’t get the whole can this time.

    We descended through significant cloud cover, and it was a little bumpy. Like KSA, Pohnpei was very mountainous and lush. It was beautiful. We made a hard-ish landing, and when Ron made his welcome announcement he admonished us to be careful when opening the overhead compartments because our hand carry bags “would definitely have shifted after that landing”.

    I disembarked from the aircraft onto a wet tarmac and walked to the terminal. There were several dozen people on the roof of the terminal looking at us. Because a large number disembarked here, immigration was slow to process all of us. The immigration officer was very polite and he took the time to ask me how to pronounce my name. He even asked for my permission to stamp my passport (erm… of course you can, after all how many people have FSM immigration stamps in their passports?) I don’t think he had encountered a Singapore passport before, so he took a bit longer with mine. Despite the short delay in getting past immigration, this was a refreshing change from the usual surly and sometimes downright rude immigration officers one often meets in the US. After that, I went into the baggage claim area. As with the other airports, the baggage claim consisted of a metal counter about six feet long. Only a limited number of bags could be loaded on, and many people crowded round it. I learned later that some bags were not delivered, but the owners of those bags were not able to report it before the aircraft took off again. They did get their bags the next day, though. As I did not check-in any bags, I went through customs and into the arrival hall. There was a cheery chaos there because so many were arriving for the conference. There were people greeting the delegates, and instead of leis (as is the practice in Hawaii) they presented them with a headband of flowers. Even though I wasn’t a delegate, I still got one. I waited for my client’s staff to come out into the arrival hall, and once we were all accounted for, we packed into a van to get to our hotel.

    While in PNI, I found out that one of my client’s staff used to be a GUM-based flight attendant some time ago. She told me stories about her time with CO when they flew 727s on the island hopper, including how Micronesian passengers sometimes chewed betelnut on board and spat them out into the airsick bags, hairy landings in heavy rain, and pilots having to abort landings because of wild pigs on the runway.
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  • Day 2

    Kolonia

    July 19, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Our first afternoon and our first full day were spent scouting out Kolonia and doing dry runs of my presentation in the conference room.

    On my first evening, I ate dinner at the restaurant at Cliff Hotel, where I was staying. I ate a steamed crab, which Pohnpei is famous for. While eating, Craig, a friend of a friend, came by and sought me out. We got to know each other while I ate. On my last evening in Pohnpei, I went to his house for a home cooked dinner. Craig gave me a lot of insights into the islands, the way of life, and the issues they face. Apart from Craig, I also interacted with a hotel staff who brought us sakau, a guy who gave me a ride in his truck when I hiked to Sokehs Rock, and a former Peace Corp volunteer who married a local.

    The infrastructure in Kolonia was a mixed bag:

    - The roads in Kolonia were badly potholed and waterlogged, but there is one nice sealed cross-island road maintained by the US military for strategic purposes.

    - Many of the cars are imported used from Japan, and they have steering wheels on the right. There wasn't a lot of traffic and most drivers steered their cars to avoid potholes. It took me a while to realize that people were actually supposed to drive on the right.

    - The most impressive building in town was FSM Telecom, but the roads in front were in poor shape. I popped in to purchase a $20 calling card to call Jeff. It did not work. Other people also reported the same issue.

    - We attended the opening ceremony for the conference in a brand spanking new gymnasium built by the Taiwanese in the hope of securing favorable fishing rights. The opening ceremony began in the afternoon. When we stepped out after sundown, it was pitch black with no street lighting.

    - There were a number of rusted out ship hulls in the bay.

    - There are no vets on the island. Once a year, a vet will come in from Guam. Some expats take their pets to Guam for treatment.

    Foodwise, I was really surprised to see how cheap the meals were. A set lunch at the nicest restaurant cost only $5.50, and with it we got either fried lapu lapu fish or chicken, rice, a side of tuna sashimi, a cup of vegetable soup from a can, and shredded cabbage with thousand island dressing. However, meals utilizing produce not from the islands (e.g., beef) were much more expensive. I also stepped into a grocery and found a depressingly small amount of fresh vegetables on display. According to Craig, only the hardiest vegetables - namely carrots and cabbage - are imported because they can survive the boat journey over.

    Without doubt, the star of the show was the mangrove crab. I ate a number of crab meals, both at the hotel restaurants and at meals provided as part of the conference. The crabs were huge and succulent.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 3

    The Village

    July 20, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    On our second day, my client’s staff Tony, Cheryl, and Michelle trooped out to The Village, which is a high end resort, for lunch. The views from there were quite impressive. My friend Scott, who used to live on Pohnpei, asked me to look out for a three legged dog at The Village that was once his. I was happy to report back to him that the dog was healthy and happy.

    On the way back to Kolonia, we stopped at a village that was known for its handicrafts made from local mangrove wood and shells. I purchased a couple of turtle themed souvenirs. Before leaving Pohnpei, I was given a heart shaped handicraft by a local official.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 5

    Nan Madol

    July 22, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    The standout sightseeing highlight of this trip was, without question, Nan Madol, a fort-like series of stone structures just off the coast of Pohnpei and about two hours by boat from the main town of Kolonia. It was built around 800 years ago in a remarkable feat of engineering, as the basalt used in its construction is not found anywhere nearby. The people who lived there apparently did not leave artifacts, so there are a lot of unanswered questions about the origins and purpose of the place.

    I went to Nan Madol with my client's staff - Tony, Cheryl, and Michelle on a half-day trip. The small boat took about two hours through waters that got somewhat rough once we went past the reef barrier. Approaching Nan Madol was one of those surreal "whoa" moments; I needed a few moments to take it all in. But then something black and slimy distracted me... sea cucumbers... thousands of them in the knee high water where our boat anchored. I grabbed a couple and started a squirting war!

    We spent a couple of hours exploring the ruins. We didn't really know much about the complex and what it was used for, but it was still an awe inspiring trip.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 5

    Sokehs Rock

    July 22, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    I spent a sweltering afternoon hiking up a ridge to an overlook with a view of Sokehs Rock, Kolonia Town and the airport. Along the way, I came across several rusting old tanks from World War II.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Oceania/Micronesia/P…
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  • Day 6

    Pohnpei to Kosrae

    July 23, 2003 in Micronesia ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Continental Micronesia CS956 | PNI/KSA
    Economy Class
    N14249 | Boeing 737-800
    ATD/1335 | ATA/1412

    My client arranged for a 1045 pickup from our hotel. It was a little too early for my liking, but I went with it anyway. We drove through Kolonia town one last time, and then along the causeway that links the airport to the main island. Along the way, there were a few signs admonishing people against drinking and driving, but interestingly there are no DUI laws in Pohnpei.

    Arrived at the terminal at 1100. Check-in was already open. CO is the only carrier operating into PNI (and KSA, for that matter), and both desks were theirs. I was surprised to see that they used computers to check-in. I somehow expected CO to use manual check-in given the telecommunications structure at PNI and the fact that they only process relatively small numbers of passengers. I asked for an aisle seat (American Express Travel couldn’t get me an assigned seat) and he gave me 12C on the exit. I was then advised to wait for the airport tax collector to arrive, and the check-in agent advised that he would hold my boarding pass until she arrived.

    While waiting for the airport tax collector, I browsed through the souvenir stands. It housed the usual collections of knick-knacks, but there was a random collection of about ten used CDs selling for $5 each. They included Jane’s Addiction’s Ritual De Lo Habitual (alas, not with the classic cover artwork but the version with the white album cover and Perry Ferrell’s diatribe about “intellectual mosquitoes” on the inside) and a Steppenwolf CD (can’t remember which album). While waiting for the airport tax collector, one of the hotel staff came to say goodbye, and the Assistant to the Director of the Economic Development Authority came and gave us cooked mangrove crabs to take back with us!

    The airport tax collector finally came at 1210. I was sweating buckets by then because the airport check-in lounge is not air-conditioned. I paid my $10 and got my boarding pass. I then went to the restroom, only to find red betel nut spit all over the urinals. Ewwww. Back in the check-in area, a tourism board employee asked me to fill in a survey form, and I gladly did so.

    Walking into the air-conditioned security screening area at 1245 was a relief. There were no x-ray machines there (same as KSA and MAJ) and all hand luggage was hand searched. I was asked to turn on my laptop. Fortunately, I did not set off the metal detector, so I avoided getting wanded.

    The departure hall was a small room. On one wall were clocks displaying the time in various cities, but almost all of them were not working. There were also two Air Nauru posters (are they still flying?). There were about 40 passengers in the departure hall.

    Boarding began at about 1300, and the airport security staff starting doing random hand searches as people boarded, which didn't make sense as the security screening area was only 50 feet away and nobody could go anywhere else from there. I got selected for the random search and I had to turn on and shutdown my laptop all over again. This time I had to take off my shoes too.

    Walking through the bright sunshine to board N14249, I walked on to see the US ambassador to the FSM in BusinessFirst. A man was in my seat – 12C – and he asked if I could take 12D because that was his assigned seat and his wife was in 12B. I said ok. Behind us on 14BCD were three Mormon missionaries, and a very large man was in 14F. At the exit, I noticed that some of the exit door instructions were in Spanish. (Bear in mind my earlier comments about the inconsistent use of different languages in the signage on the outbound aircraft). As I got myself settled in, a flight attendant walked by with entry forms for KSA.

    Aircraft door was closed by 1330, and we started taxiing at 1335. The aircraft taxied to the western end of the runway 09 and we took off in an easterly direction. 11D was marked “For Flight Attendant Use Only” and one of the flight attendants sat there for takeoff. There was also a mechanic on board and he had a seat in the forward section of coach. The load on the sector was about 60% – there was at least one empty seat per row. Flying time to KSA was about 1 hour.

    Drinks were served while we were still climbing. I got a pack of mini pretzels and a whole can of diet coke. The napkins this time had a floral design – on the outbound flights we had some advertising online check-in and some advertising the fact that CO’s flight attendants spoke over 30 languages.

    During the flight, the ambassador walked through the cabin talking to the Americans on board. He only went back to his seat as we were descending into KOS, and he disembarked there. The large man in 14F snored loudly throughout the flight. We descended through cloud cover and landed smoothly, and the snoring man did not wake up! After landing, we turned around on the runway – that was when I saw that we stopped just before the “piano keys” at the end of the runway – and taxied to the terminal.
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