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Ice Magic
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  • Geoff Gardner
  • Bunja Cowles

Ice Magic

Smoldering volcanoes, Baltic souls and green valleys Read more
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  • Ice Magic
    Narrowest bridge in the world
    Guardian of the ValleysSix Bells miners accommodationLots of narrow roads in WalesRiver Wye

    Blwch to Green Bottom

    September 22 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Today, we traveled to Barbara and Simons place at Littledean near the Royal Forest of Dean.
    On the way we detoured a couple of times, firstly to get a photo of a very narrow bridge that we had to cross the previous day (7 foot max width) and secondly to Abertillery to see the Guardian of the Valleys, a 20m tall sculpture commemorating the Six Bells mine explosion that killed 45 miners in 1960. The statue is very imposing and impressive. The names of those killed are listed around the base of the statue. As well as the statue, there are a number of plaques providing an insight into the devastating impact that this accident would have had on the local community. A very moving memorial.
    Then it was on to B and S at Green Bottom and a short walk along the River Wye and up to a lookout on an adjacent ridge for views of the river. The views were stunning. B and S do a lot of kayaking on this river.
    Then it was back to Green Bottom for dinner and an early night.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Llanthony priory
    Steep climb at the start of the walkGreat sceneryThe path on the ridge passed through a lot of swampy ground.Barbara and SimonThere were quite a few wild horses along the trailPriory from the top of the ridgeGeoff, tired after a long walk, being made to look at the priory ruins again.A dill at the prioryThe old church next to the priory built in the 1600s

    Llanthony Priory and England border

    September 21 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We met Barbara and Simon at Llanthony Priory, built by the Cistersions in the 1200s. We left their car at the priory and drove to the start of our walk. The walk was steep uphill for the first6-800 meters, then relatively flat as we walked on the ridge about 12km back to the priory. It was a beautiful day, and the scenery was spectacular. The top of the ridge is the border between England and Wales for a large section of our walk.
    It was a steep drop of about 500m from the ridge top down to the priory so Geoff's knees were complainingby the time we got down. We had a drink at the priory bar (cider-a great thirst quencher) before Simon drove us back to the start of the walk to pick up our car. B and S headed home then while we went in to Brecon for dinner at a Thai restaurant, which was surprisingly good.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Roman bridge around 2000 years old.Coach and Horses where we had dinner

    Betws-y-Coed to Bwlch

    September 20 in Wales ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We moved today to Bwlch in the Brecon Beacons area.
    As we left Betws-y-Coed we got instructions on how to find a bridge built by the Romans about 2000 years ago from Michael the Airbnb owner. Found the bridge after the occasional wrong turn. It is a very narrow stone bridge over a raging torrent. It is amazing that it is still tanding after all this time.
    After settling in at Bwlch, and because it was raining fairly heavily, we met Geoffs old friend Barbara and her husband Simon at The Big Pit, a coal mining museum that includes a tour underground. The guide we had was an ex-miner and was very knowledgeable and entertaining.
    We then went out for a very enjoyable dinner with Barbara and Simon to the Coach and Horses Inn.    Read more

  • Ice Magic

    Conwy and Betws-y-Coed

    September 19 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The decision we had to make today was whether we were too tired to drive to Conwy to see the best of the Edward I castles. It is renowned for being the best preserved Middle Ages castle and also particularly beautifully positioned. The alternative was to hang around Betwys Y Coed, catch up with admin and relax. Going to the castle won! So we did.

    It was everything that was promised. The walls incorporated the whole town and it was still in tact and impressive . Not all accessible on foot but mostly. The wall perimeter was 1.4km. The fiesty Welsh had to be kept out of the whole town. Life for the locals was tough and they were a savage foe.

    We went to Bank cafe for the second worst coffee ever and then headed back to Coed Y Celyn, our lovely home.

    Geoff dropped me off at the town of Betws for me to look at the shops and then I walked home. I bought a North Wales tea towel and a carved wooden spoon. It’s a welsh tradition for the boys to carve one for their wife to be.

    We tried a couple of pubs for a beer at around 5. After 2 hot beers we went home for a home cooked steak and veg. The first hot beer was in Ty Gwynn, formerly a pack horse stop built right at the current roads edge. It was a very atmospheric building.

    Betys Y Coed has been a great place to stay.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Cloth created by 2 master weavers
    Magnificent roman ruins dance.Jules does n I. The hydrocaust underground pit which generated heating for the baths/living areas.Beddgelert St Mary's Church.1It was so wet, Jules had to take her glasses off again to see.LlandudnoInside St John's Methodist church, before the choral concert started.

    Caernarfon, Beddgelert and Llandudno

    September 18 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Had a two hour session in Caernarfon the morning learning how to weave. Very interesting and very easy.
    On our way out of Caernafon, we had a look at the ruins of a Roman fort. The fort was manned by German auxiliary rather than real Romans. Geoff was ecstatic anyway.
    Then to Beddgelert, where it was raining cats and dogs. A very nice village, which was the site of a very sad incident in the late 1200s (see photo).
    We had a rest at home before heading out for dinner at Llandudno at the Abode restaurant, which was very nice (home-made pie and veg). Then a walk around the town (which was a bit of a revelation - this is a very popular seaside holiday destination with lots of delightful Victorian buildings along the shoreline) before attending the local Methodist church for a 2 hour concert by the local all male choir. The choir were great, as were the guy accompanying them on the piano and organ and a female soloist. All very good. Jules over the moon.
    An hour drive home and straight to bed after another very successful day in Wales.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Disappointing Roman walls Holyhead
    View from the coffee shop in Holyhead. What a dump. Best coffee we have had since leaving home.South Stack lighthouse Holy Head Anglesey.Jules on the walk up from the lighthouse.Jules doing a dance of delight at the Bryn Celli Ddu burial mounds 2000BC.Beaumaris castle. Building started in the late 1200 by Edward I of England after he conquered Wales.Longest place name in the world is in Wales.Beaumaris harbour.Menai Bridge designed by Telford. Geoff loves bridges.

    Anglesey

    September 17 in Wales ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Another great day of discovery. We started the day by finding a great coffee shop in a trashy town. We went there because of the Roman ruins but they hardly existed and were almost completely non existent . The coffee made up for that though. We had two and bought bagels for lunch.

    The South Stack lighthouse walk and lighthouse tour made up for everything though. Such a dramatic coastline and such hardships of the past explained to us. Thousands of ship wrecks lay submerged under the sea along the coast and hemp baskets transporting the workers and provisions across a zip line to the lighthouse which is across a gorge not attached to the mainland. So many steps and the wind nearly carried us away at times. It was absolutely beautiful.

    The Bryn Celli burial mounds were from prehistoric times. Approximately 200BC. I was very excited about seeing these. The area was so atmospheric with beautiful green rolling hills.

    After this we drove to Beaumaris to have a quick look at the perfectly symmetrical castle, also built by Edward I. It was never finished as he ran out of money. He was trying to show his might in this area of Wales after conquering from Welsh. Four castles were started but never finished. These ruins are amazing in size and symmetry.

    The last sight was the Menai Bridge. A beautiful bridge across the Menai Straits Beaumaris is a picturesque town, really happy to have visited.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Waiting for the train
    The trainGeoff at the summit. Zero visibility.The various routes downDropping below the cloud the view were spectacularBig slate quarry spied on the bus back to LlanberisQuarry, LlanberisAdventure hair lady.

    Mount Snowden

    September 16 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Up early and a 40-minute drive to Llanberis to catch the train to the summit of Mount Snowden. Didn't see much on the way up because of the fog and rain. Arrived at the top around 10am after an hours train ride. Put on all our cold/wet weather gear before going up to the summit (about 2 minutes from the station).
    It was foggy, raining lightly, and blowing a gale at the summit. Visibility zero. Not much fun.
    We decided to walk down the mountain anyway even though we had return tickets on the train. The first half a kilometer of the descent was pretty horrendous, particularly for Jules whose glasses fogged up with the rain and whose hair was playing up in the high winds, blinding her. It was pretty slow going. Geoff was having second thoughts at this stage, but not Jules.
    Half a km in, the track turned off the ridge and suddenly there was no wind. The rain eased shortly after. The track was moderately hard for us old timers but not for the hundreds of others we passed on the track.
    After a couple of km we dropped below the cloud cover and had stunning views for the rest of the walk. We took the easy path down, the miners trail, which was very gentle for the last few km as it was a track used many years ago to supply miners about a third of the way up the mountain.
    We finished the walk at Pen-y-Pass. Had an ice cream at Pen -y-Pass to celebrate Jules crossing another item off her bucket list while we waited for the shuttle bus that would take us 20 min back to Llanberis.
    Both pretty tired at the end of it and both happy with what we were able to achieve given our various ailments.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    More waterfalls. Zzzzzzzzz
    Poached tourists in the spaFinal farewell to the tour group outside the hotel

    Stykkisholmur to Reykjavik

    September 13 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Only 2 activities today and a fair bit of driving to get back to Reykjavik.
    Stopped off at a waterfall first and spent an hour there wandering along the river. OK waterfall but not as good as we have seen before.
    Then, on to a spa where we alternately poached ourselves in the hat spas or sauna and then froze ourselves in the 6 degree plunge pool. Very relaxing and a great way to finish the tour.
    Finally, it was a 1.5 hour drive back to Reykjavik where we just had time to settle into the hotel before our guide took us out to a nearby restaurant for a final dinner. As usual the dinner cost us $200, and the food was fairly average. What can you do? It's Iceland. The company was great, though, and it was hard to say goodbye to the guide and the friends we had made on the trip.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    The crew
    ThingvellirThingvellir waterfallSite of the AlthingiLunch at the farmStikkisholmurStikkisholmur lighthouse

    Selfoss to Snaefellsnes

    September 11 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    First up after breakfast, we drove to Thingvellir National Park. This is on the line through Iceland where the Eurasian and Nort American tectonic plates meet. The plates are pulling slowly apart, forming a valley. This is also the location where the initial Icelandic parliament, the Althingi met in 930AD. It continued to meet there each autumn for centuries. It was very windy. We walked to the nearby waterfall, church and Prime Ministers old summer residence.
    We then drove west stopping at a few viewpoints looking at the glacier created u shaped valleys. Stopped at one spot to look at some sheep pens created out of stone walls, no longer functional.
    Had lunch at a farm (soup and bread-delicious) and a bit of background about farming in Iceland from the owner of the farm. It is a tough life for the farmers and the sheep (which spend 6 months of the year running free way up in the hills and the other 6 months in the shed (winter).
    Then it was on to our hotel in Stikkisholmur with a couple of stop offs to look at glacial valleys etc etc. Zzzzzzzzzz.
    After dropping our gear at the hotel the weather was so good we walked through the town to a light house for yet more stunning scenery.
    Dinner at the hotel with the mob then bed.
    This was a really long day. Both of us were really cooked at the end.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Selfoss waterfall
    Only 450 steps to the top.Upstream of the major waterfalls beautiful with rapids and other full width FallsUs!Base of the waterfall with our guide.Open Air Museum showing the lifestyle of early Icelandic people.Carved bed boards put at the side of the entry point. It doubled for extra table space at meal time.A real fishing boat owned by the museum's founder.Turf roofed house at the museum.Beautiful carved book cover located in the school house.The family beds. Often 10-12 people shared the beds and had to sit all night. AMap of Iceland showing road systems.Lunch was at the hydroponic tomato farm. Delicious vats of tomato soup + mountain of home baked.Beautiful coloured geraniums help with pests around the tomatoes.Gullfoss waterfall. It was mighty. Roaring clouds of aerated water spewed into the air. Magnificent.Gullfoss. Looks a lot like Victoria FallsThe water does a90degree turn and drops into a huge rift.Farm land of Siduda's family.

    Selfoss, Geyser, Tomato lunch, Gullfoss

    September 10 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Sigridur Tomasdottir (1874 -1957) was born in Brattholt farm near Gullfoss and had no formal education. However she learned to read and draw beautiful pictures of wildlife. She and her sisters guided visitors around the waterfall. She grew up to be an activist who helped save Gullfoss from developers who wanted to build a power station to supply electricity to a large part of Iceland. She was the daughter of the original farm owner. His land contained half of the Gullfoss waterfall . Her father refused to sell to the developer but eventually was tricked into the sale of his property. Sigridur worked huge hours and tirelessly to stop this project from going ahead. We have her and her helpers to thank for saving the majestic waterfall from destruction. She is subsequently known as the first environmentalist in Iceland.Read more

  • Ice Magic
    3
    Tour group about to get on the amphibious boat.With two new friends from New York State. We are going on an amphibious craft to view small icebergsHolding a piece of iceberg. Smooth carved out grooves and millions of air bubbles.The beached small icebergs make natural ice sculptures.The graves in Iceland cannot be dug deeply because the earth is too hot. You can see the graves on tThe last church built with a turf roof.Hike to Svartavos with a rare rainbow finishing at the waterfall.1We are staying at a very pretty farm which we cannot see because of the cloud.

    Jokulsarlon Vatnajokull Svartifoss

    September 8 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    The black ice shows the volcanic activity and layers of ash in previous decades/centuries. There are 30 active volcanoes in Iceland.

  • Ice Magic

    Reykjavik - Hali

    September 7 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Big breakfast at the hotel before jumping on the tour bus and heading east.
    First stop was a geyser fielding a town about half an hour from Reykjavik. Cooked some eggs in the water and watched the geyser fire off a couple of times. Ate the eggs with some rye bread also cooked in the hot water oven.
    Next stop was the Lava exhibition. Lots of detail about the volcanos. Interactive and very well presented. Great exhibition.
    Then onto the big waterfall that we could walk behind. Spectacular.
    Finally we had a walk on a black sand beach - fine volcanic san. No surf unfortunately.
    Then it was a three hour drive to the hotel. Arrived about 7.
    Dinner at the hotel. Very expensive but delicious.
    Big day but very interesting.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    1Doorway displays in the old homes of Reykjavik.Across the lake in ReykjavikTypical Badstadus in the National Museum.Big afternoon storm over the lake.One hundred year's difference between these 2 photos.The storm from the Reykjavik Eye.The famous rock, said to have elves living inside.Lava tube depictions of logs brought over with the first man who came to live in Iceland.Statue of first man in Iceland.Delicious $180 dinner at a fish restaurant. MAR.

    Reykjavik Day 2

    September 6 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We only had time for one museum so it was the National Museum which is about life in Iceland from 800, when it was first settled to current day. It was excellent. Then it was of to the waterfront. A huge storm was coming so Geoff dared me to go on the Reykjavik Eye wheel. I was up for it so we viewed the huge storm from above. Very dramatic sky but we didn’t see any rain fall at all. We had a beautiful sunny day which is amazing.

    At 1.30pm we joined a large walking tour. Luckily it was split it two. Our guide was great. An Icelander who had studied acting in London. The Iceland Government pays for all tertiary education and even if you go abroad to study, they foot the bill and you pay 2% of the fees each year for the rest of your life. It isn’t much apparently.

    The story is that a man Floki Vilgerdason, in 868, broke the law in Norway and grabbed two huge wooden poles from his house, jumped into his Viking ship and sailed to Iceland. When he arrived he threw them out of his ship and wherever they landed, he would build his house. Reykjavik it was. There a monument to him in the town and all Icelanders are related to him. 31 generations in fact. Young people have an App now to check how closely they are related to the person they are dating. The government recommends 5th generation as the minimum. No laws enforce that. It’s a big deal as all nationals are related. Population is only just under 400,000 today. This also means that is also the only Icelandic speakers in the world. They are doing what they can to preserve their language.

    Legs were really tired by now. Back to the motel for a quick nap and well earned hot bath then off to reception to meet our group and guide. 4 Canadians, 6 Americans and 4 Aussies.

    Dinner at MAR seafood restaurant for us. Delicious seafood meal.    Read more

  • Ice Magic

    Reykjavik

    September 5 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Another late get up. Feels like a wasted day just traveling with no time to be a tourist.
    Had a free sauna at the accommodation (super hot- the guy in the sauna with Geoff kept throwing water on the coals. G almost passed out but refused to give up - life is a competition).
    Got an Uber to the airport 2.5 hours early for the flight. We're getting more conservative as we get older. 3.5 hour flight to Reykjavik gaining 3 hour time difference so we arrived about the time we left.
    Caught the flybus to our accommodation and settled into our $520/night hotel without issue. Everything very expensive here.

    Went out to the main drag for dinner. Found a place that served soup inside a loaf of bread. Shared one and had a wine/beer then walked down to the waterfront to see the Viking boat statue. Pretty cool.
    Temperature was dropping and the wind was getting up so it was getting uncomfortable so we headed home. Got to bed about midnight Helsinki time.    Read more

  • Ice Magic

    Finland Finland Finland

    September 4 in Finland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Last day in Tallin. Had a late get up and took our time to pack up. Went for a coffee to Rocket Bean (small and cold just like Melbourne). The bean was called Pussy Magic so that made up for it a bit.
    Got an Uber to the ferry terminal and waited a couple of hours for the ferry. We paid extra for the ferry ride for access to the Lounge. Lots of free food (delicious) wine and beer and bugger all people. The only way to travel - it's great being a boomer!

    Ferry ride was about 2.5 hours. Arrived in Helsinki late afternoon. We had booked accommodation within walking distance of the Viking ferry terminal but unfortunately we didn't travel with Viking so we landed about5km from our accommodation. Another $50 taxi ride.

    Went for a walk after settling in. Pretty touristy in the centre and not as interesting (depressing) as the Baltic cities from a history point of view. Had a look at the design district (jewelery, clothing etc zzzzzzzzzzz!) Had an expensive beer/wine then bought a sandwich at a supermarket and called it a day.    Read more

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