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Ice Magic
  • Geoff Gardner
  • Bunja Cowles
Currently traveling
Aug – Sep 2025

Ice Magic

Smoldering volcanoes, Baltic souls and green valleys Read more
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  • Last seen in
    🇮🇸 Reykholt, Iceland
  • Ice Magic

    Reykjavik - Hali

    September 7 in Iceland ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Big breakfast at the hotel before jumping on the tour bus and heading east.
    First stop was a geyser fielding a town about half an hour from Reykjavik. Cooked some eggs in the water and watched the geyser fire off a couple of times. Ate the eggs with some rye bread also cooked in the hot water oven.
    Next stop was the Lava exhibition. Lots of detail about the volcanos. Interactive and very well presented. Great exhibition.
    Then onto the big waterfall that we could walk behind. Spectacular.
    Finally we had a walk on a black sand beach - fine volcanic san. No surf unfortunately.
    Then it was a three hour drive to the hotel. Arrived about 7.
    Dinner at the hotel. Very expensive but delicious.
    Big day but very interesting.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    1Doorway displays in the old homes of Reykjavik.Across the lake in ReykjavikTypical Badstadus in the National Museum.Big afternoon storm over the lake.One hundred year's difference between these 2 photos.The storm from the Reykjavik Eye.The famous rock, said to have elves living inside.Lava tube depictions of logs brought over with the first man who came to live in Iceland.Statue of first man in Iceland.Delicious $180 dinner at a fish restaurant. MAR.

    Reykjavik Day 2

    September 6 in Iceland ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    We only had time for one museum so it was the National Museum which is about life in Iceland from 800, when it was first settled to current day. It was excellent. Then it was of to the waterfront. A huge storm was coming so Geoff dared me to go on the Reykjavik Eye wheel. I was up for it so we viewed the huge storm from above. Very dramatic sky but we didn’t see any rain fall at all. We had a beautiful sunny day which is amazing.

    At 1.30pm we joined a large walking tour. Luckily it was split it two. Our guide was great. An Icelander who had studied acting in London. The Iceland Government pays for all tertiary education and even if you go abroad to study, they foot the bill and you pay 2% of the fees each year for the rest of your life. It isn’t much apparently.

    The story is that a man Floki Vilgerdason broke the law in Norway and grabbed two huge wooden poles from his house, jumped into his Viking ship and sailed to Iceland. When he arrived he threw them out of his ship and wherever they landed, he would build his house. Reykjavik it was. There a monument to him in the town and all Icelanders are related to him. 31 generations in fact. Young people have an App now to check how closely they are related to the person they are dating. The government recommends 5th generation as the minimum. No laws enforce that. It’s a big deal as all nationals are related. Population is only just under 400,000 today. This also means that is also the only Icelandic speakers in the world. They are doing what they can to preserve their language.

    Legs were really tired by now. Back to the motel for a quick nap and well earned hot bath then off to reception to meet our group and guide. 4 Canadians, 6 Americans and 4 Aussies.

    Dinner at MAR seafood restaurant for us. Delicious seafood meal.    Read more

  • Ice Magic

    Reykjavik

    September 5 in Iceland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Another late get up. Feels like a wasted day just traveling with no time to be a tourist.
    Had a free sauna at the accommodation (super hot- the guy in the sauna with Geoff kept throwing water on the coals. G almost passed out but refused to give up - life is a competition).
    Got an Uber to the airport 2.5 hours early for the flight. We're getting more conservative as we get older. 3.5 hour flight to Reykjavik gaining 3 hour time difference so we arrived about the time we left.
    Caught the flybus to our accommodation and settled into our $520/night hotel without issue. Everything very expensive here.

    Went out to the main drag for dinner. Found a place that served soup inside a loaf of bread. Shared one and had a wine/beer then walked down to the waterfront to see the Viking boat statue. Pretty cool.
    Temperature was dropping and the wind was getting up so it was getting uncomfortable so we headed home. Got to bed about midnight Helsinki time.    Read more

  • Ice Magic

    Finland Finland Finland

    September 4 in Finland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Last day in Tallin. Had a late get up and took our time to pack up. Went for a coffee to Rocket Bean (small and cold just like Melbourne). The bean was called Pussy Magic so that made up for it a bit.
    Got an Uber to the ferry terminal and waited a couple of hours for the ferry. We paid extra for the ferry ride for access to the Lounge. Lots of free food (delicious) wine and beer and bugger all people. The only way to travel - it's great being a boomer!

    Ferry ride was about 2.5 hours. Arrived in Helsinki late afternoon. We had booked accommodation within walking distance of the Viking ferry terminal but unfortunately we didn't travel with Viking so we landed about5km from our accommodation. Another $50 taxi ride.

    Went for a walk after settling in. Pretty touristy in the centre and not as interesting (depressing) as the Baltic cities from a history point of view. Had a look at the design district (jewelery, clothing etc zzzzzzzzzzz!) Had an expensive beer/wine then bought a sandwich at a supermarket and called it a day.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Russians orthodox churchFat Margaret

    Tallin Old Town

    September 2 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Did a walking tour of the old town in the morning with our guide, Gleb. Got to learn about the Danish impacts on the history of Estonia. In general, the history of Estonia from about 1200AD is very similar to that of Latvia - conquered during the early 1200s by the Danes as part of the Baltic crusades (German knights took Latvia and southern Estonia at this time). Conquered by the Russians (Ivan the Terrible) in the Livonian war mid 1500s Conquered by the Swedes, then Conquered by the Russians again (Peter the Great) during the great northern war 1721. Independent for the first time in 1919, when Russia collapsed during the Bolshevic revolution in 1917. Invaded by Russia in 1940. Invaded by Germany 1941. Invaded by Russia 1944. Independent after the fall of the Soviet Union 1991. A very sad, dark history.

     Fun fact: Through devine intervention, a flag with a white cross on a red background fell from the sky during an early battle between the Danes and the Estonians inspiring the Danes to win the battle. The Danes adopted this as their national flag. Still is. That definitely happened.

    Had a long chat to Gleb about Russian invasion of Ukraine. Estonian are quite fatalistic about it all. Being in NATO is the only thing that has stopped Putin from invading.
    Had lunch at Balti Jamm Turg a local market. While eating our vegetarian kebab we chatted with an older (our age) couple from Finland. A very nice lunch. Then home for a nap before heading out to the old town to have a look at Fat Margaret, one of the gates into the old city. Then a local beer in the old town before wandering off to the new city centre looking for a brewery that Gleb had recommended. Had a really nice beer there and a long chat with a Danish guy, a member of a running club that ended its run at the brewery.
    Then moved next door for some tapas for dinner. (Potato fritata and artichoke and goats cheese both very nice).
    Then a long walk home via the Bishops Garden for a night view over the city - a bit disappointing.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Geoff captivated by a diagonal arch bridge. He loved this bridge.

    Tartu guided tour and then off to Tallin

    September 1 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Kadri our Airbnb host allowed us a late check out. This allowed us to keep the car in the garage while we did an early morning Guru Walk. Parking on the street can be tricky. Lots of parking fines are handed out.

    We met Stanislav at the Monument of Johan Valdemere Jansen on the other side of the river. He was the man who started the famous Music and Dance Festival in Tartu in 1879. His daughter Lydja , since childhood, wrote meaningful and peaceful music using the lyrics from her poetry. Both the festival and songs are loved by Estonians. It started as a means to unite an isolated population of people.

    All the rebuilding after the bombing in WW11 has taken place on the university side of the river.

    Tartu was nominated as the Cultural Capital of Europe 2024. This was awarded after a 5 year application process to prove all the improvements in infrastructure they are planning to enhance cultural activities of the The university city. The university was started in 1600’s under the rule of the Swedes. When the Russians gained controlled they continued to build and expand it. All the powers in northern Europe wanted a centre of learning other than the well established classical university cities. Tartu was chosen as the midpoint between Riga and Tallinn.

    The old cathedral on Toomemagi hill was started in 1200’s. It also had a castle and walls around the whole thing. The castle is completely gone. No ruins at all. Invaders tried to knock it down with the most damage done by Ivan the Terrible in 1577. Nothing has really changed since then other than some strengthening of the walls etc. It is however a beautiful ruin with rich green grass growing all throughout.

    Quick lunch at the Indian with the largest naan I’ve ever soon. Other than it wasn’t very good. Off to Tallinn now.

    We arrived late so just went to our closest retirement, the Garden Cafe where a lovely man served us, let us taste his beers and Italian Rose , then into the kitchen to start cooking our simple but delicious meals. It was a great day despite both of us having colds.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Town Hall Tartu
    Town square TartuBalcony view from our Tartu accommodation.Shoes cast into the sidewalk denoting people in the adjacent house that were killed in 1941 Cesis.St John's CesisSt John? CesisSt John's Valga (Estonia)Town Hall ValgaCalgary Estonia.

    Cesis to Tartu

    August 31 in Estonia ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Had a late get up as we both have colds. A nice coffee and walk around St John's church in Cesis before driving north. Stopped for lunch and a walk around another St John's Lutheran church on the border at the twin towns of Valka (Latvia)/Valga (Estonia). Then drove another hour and a half to Tartu, apparently the cultural capital of Europe 2024. It is a very pretty university town. Both of us being pretty weary. we had a nap then went for a walk to the main town square for some dark beer before heading home for the now traditional meal of rocquet, toast, pickled gerkin and sardines.Read more

  • Ice Magic
    1
    Cauliflower funghi.Tiny little enclave of houses just like grandma's cottage in Little Red Riding Hood.Cute use of walkers boots.Work under on one of the towers at Cesis CastleMultimedia presentationInside the roof area with whilst using a lantern to light our way.Typical houses of the 1700's.Zala Zale Bar for first drinks. We were searching for a bar with a TV to watch Eurobasket.Zala Zale with Valmiermuiza Dark Beer. Delish.A photo in the Witches Meadow.Walking with a lantern in the west Tower.Latvia's worst ever sandwich.

    Cesis and Amata Geological Trail

    August 30 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today we travelled through Guaja NP and did a 6k return walk from the Amata tributary. It was a beautiful peaceful walk amongst the pine forest and woodland alongside the Amata tributary. Small caves have been carved into the salmon coloured dolomite rock. Witches Meadow was in the field and needs no explanation. Interestingly the salmon come into the Amata to spawn and jump up the rapids to get out into the Atlantic Ocean one full sized.

    We drove to Ligatne which was further into the Guaja NP. The town was nothing special and the lunch at Ziet Hotel was the worst lunch we have ever had. Barrata salad, which was a large ball of soft cheese sitting on stewed aubegine and a bright green sauce terrible. The grilled sandwich was not much better but edible. Well, you have to have a low point.

    Cesis town made up for the horrible lunch and then some. The old castle looked like a fairytale in appearance and has needed a big renovation. The new work is very authentic and painstakingly slow. It’s a big archeological site given that the original parts were started in 1200’s by the Levonian Brothers of the Sword.

    The coolest thing was that we had to use a lantern to enter the West Tower to carefully watch our step as we ascended numerous of stone spiral stairs. Also an amazing multimedia projected presentation in the tower immersed us into life and times of Cesis Castle travelling from 1206 2019. It was wonderful and so well done. The experience at Cesis pils was quite unique.

    In 1577 saw huge expansion of the whole area, several hectares in fact. Then came the sacking and pillaging and deaths by the Russians, Ivan the Terrible. The deaths were unbelievably brutal. Some of the women and children gathered in one of the towers and gathered all the gunpowder and blew themselves up rather put themselves in the hands of the enemy.

    The Swedes came along in the 1600’s and the Russian army again in early 1700’s with much destruction. Livonia remained part of the Russian Empire until 1919. Latvia was then independent.

    Home for a quick nap after all that history and aching legs and off to town to watch the Eurobasket and have a beautiful dinner and a gourmet kabab.    Read more

  • Ice Magic

    Riga-Sigulda-Cesis

    August 29 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Packed up and managed to get a scratch on the hire car (possibly 700 euro excess) from the automatically closing yard gate as we left the BnB. Drove to Alberta Iela where there are over half a dozen Art Nouveau houses by the Latvian architect Eistenstein - some better than others but all with excellent workmanship and attention to detail. After looking at the houses we went into a bakery and bought a pastry so we could use their toilet. Unfortunately there was a mixup and we didn't get any change when we paid in cash so we ended up with a $36 muffin. It was delicious, though Jules didn't have any on principle. When we got back to the car we realised we were in a pay parking area so may have a fine coming. It was becoming an expensive day.
    On our way out of Riga we did a grocery shop and had a coffee at a really nice bookshop.
    We drove a bit over an hour to Sigulda north of Riga to have a look at two castles (Livonian Order castle and Turaida castle) constructed by the Teutonic knights after a crusade against the local pagans in about 1205. Very interesting but tiring. We were cooked half way through the second castle so called a day and drove to our accommodation in Cesis. In an effort to save some money we had a dinner of boiled (no butter to saute with) broccoli and mushrooms seasoned with some pickled cucumber. Not the greatest dinner ever but surprisingly not bad.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Leilais Kristaps, a legendary gentle giant in 3 century help people cross the Daugara River.
    Walking through the old town.St Peter's churchBeautiful street scape.The only remaining synagogue in Riga. The Germans burnt all the others down.Prime realestate. 😉Renovators delight.The Black Head house on left.Oldest house still standing from 1400's.The cat symbol is popular in Riga.Part of the old city wall incorporated into newer housing.Brothers Grimm story about these animals coming to live in Riga to become musicians after escaping.Latvia showing support to the Ukranians by flying their flag everywhere.Putins face appeared on this wall opposite Russian embassy days afterthe Russian invasion.View from Raddison Blu roof top bar drinks.

    Riga Old Town

    August 28 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today we booked 2 walking tours. A walking tour of Old Riga in the morning and the afternoon one was about the occupations of Latvia. Both excellent and both guides had personal experience with great grand parents and grandparents being sent to Siberia or detention camps. Neither families were Jewish but were suspected of other things. No one was safe. The educated , professionals , people doing well etc were all sent to these hell on earth places where most people died of starvation and disease. Both guides spoke about the rise in anxiety in the community since Russia invaded Ukraine. They look back on life 3 years ago as being care free compared to now. Everyone is worried about what will happen next. They support Ukraine 100% and all over Latvia they fly the Ukraine flag next to theirs.

    So much pain and trauma lies in the psyche of the Latvians. Their past has been traumatic with either the Russians or Germans constantly invading. The lives of Latvians have been an absolute struggle and yet the 1800’s had been very good for the economy. The streets of Riga, old city and new city are filled with sophisticated architecture which is absolutely beautiful in Art Nouveau style.

    Lunch today was in The Fish Cafe. We shared fish soup, baked stuffed herring, and potato cakes with and rolled slices of smoked salmon. Absolutely delicious.

    After the second tour we were exhausted and went straight to the Raddison Blu roof top bar. Two drinks each later, we staggered home for a bread, pickle and sardine dinner. Exhausted we fell into bed.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Our street
    Lunch-Poke bowl for Geoff and burger for JulesSports bar. 3 men in a Boat (plus a horse?)Watching the game

    Riga

    August 27 in Latvia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Up early to get an Uber to the airport with a very friendly Turkish driver. Got dropped at the wrong terminal (thanks Geoff) so a bit of a hike to start the day. Uneventful 1 hour flight to Riga. Picked up the hire car and managed not to kill anyone on the way to the accommodation driving on the wrong side of the road (better Geoff). Met Martin the very friendly and helpful owner of the Bnb. We are staying very close to the centre of the city so we walked a couple of blocks to the restaurant area to have a really nice lunch.
    Back to the unit for a nap before heading out to a couple of local bars (Nurme and 3 Men in a Boat) for a drink or two before dinner.
    European basketball championship 2025 started in Riga today. This is a big deal for the city, apparently it's the biggest sporting event ever in Riga. We watched part of the Latvian vs Turkey game at 3 Men in a Boat but it looked like they were going down fairly badly so we left at 3/4 time. Chatted basketball to a really nice guy while we watched the game.
    Then home for a dinner of black bread cream cheese and sardines. Gourmet.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    Bakeri & coffee
    King Charles XII. 'Moscow is this was boys'.Parliament buildingWooden boat canal cruiseGrand HotelNordisk Museet. A most beautiful building.Ice loss since 1975 to current day. Depressing.

    Stockholm city, Charles XII, archipelago

    August 26 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Of course the day started with a coffee and two treats from a bakeri. Once this was done we walked around the city for an hour before the boat ride to the archipelago. The depth of architecturally beautiful buildings around the city is outstanding. What is even more outstanding is the cleanliness of the whole city of Stockholm and how beautifully restored and maintained every thing is. It is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever seen.

    We came across a statue of King Karl XII 1682- 1718(or Charles XII as we know him) in the lovely park we walked to. The city half marathon is about to start from this park. This was highlight for us as we have listened to hours of pod casts from the Rest Is History about this guy who waged war on Russia, Peter the Great and his men. Eventually he lost the war, most of his many thousand strong army from starvation , the cold, disease and bullets. The whole country of Sweden was broke at this stage. He was a brave king , just a little gungho and over ambitious.

    Swedish open beef sandwiches were our choice for lunch today at the Nordisk Museet. An absolutely wonderful exhibition of Nordic life from 1500’s to current day. Global warming exhibits were well done too but our legs did not hold out. Our visit did not do this museum any justice.

    We caught a bus, train and bus home again, stopping on the way for another beer at the Fruangen pub. This time only $30 for two beers. Bargain and delicious.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    A quick coffee before the walking tour
    Narrowest alley in the old cityThe iron squareChanging of the guardView to Gamla Stan from the south islandTwo people , happy to be in Stockholm.

    Gamla Stan

    August 25 in Sweden ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Up early after good night sleep. After breakfast we caught a bus and train to Gamla Stan, the old city. Had a coffee and cardamon/cinnamon bun while we waited for our walking tour to start. The walking tour took about 2 hours and was a big group of about 30 but very well run and very interesting. The tour finished near the royal palace where the changing of the guard was taking place, the most interesting part of which was the mounted brass band. They played a number of ABBA tunes in a short concert, which was a bit weird. We walked around a bit looking for somewhere to have lunch- the place was packed with tourists and the restaurants were very expensive. We finally found a vegan restaurant where we had a fantastic buffet lunch- expensive but worth it.
    We then walked across to the south island, the hipster part of Stockholm and where there are some really nice views back to the city.
    We were starting to feel tired so found a pub where we sat on the street, had a couple of beers, and Jules did some drawing.
    Went home and crashed early.    Read more

  • Ice Magic
    A couple of super expensive Tiger beers at Dubai airport to celebrate the 5th anniversary of Jules.

    Flight to Stockholm

    August 24 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Arrived in Stockholm early afternoon after two good flights with Emirates. Took the express train from the airport to the city. Managed to get the wrong train towards our accommodation after getting some advice at the information counter at the central railway station. Eventually got off the train and gave up and called an Uber. Accommodation is comfortable in a quiet residential area. Walked a couple of km to the nearest open supermarket to get supplies for dinner and breakfast. Crashed straight after dinner, in bed by 8.Read more

  • Trip start
    August 23, 2025
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