• Jamie Nicholson
  • Alex van de Velde

South America ’23

Join us on an epic Sth American adventure! From tango nights in Buenos Aires to samba vibes in Rio, we'll desert-hop in Atacama, get high (altitude-wise) in La Paz, salsa through Colombia, and wrap up with sun-kissed LA. Ready for a wild ride? 🌎🌞🌵 Læs mere
  • Santa Teresa Tram

    12. september 2023, Brasilien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    When researching Rio and we discovered that there is a tram that goes over the top of an old aquaduct, we just had to go! What we didn't know was just how much fun it was going to be.

    A tram driver that epitomised swagger. A rocky and bumpy ride. Dodging taxis, buses and trucks stopped in the way. Skimming past park cars with literally no more then an inch in one case. And a beautiful view up the hill as we went.

    Sorry to the people trying to get to work but were denied because our two bums were taking up seats.
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  • Last city walk in Rio

    12. september 2023, Brasilien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After the tram we continued to do a walk a bit more for a few extra sights to see.

    The old aquaduct that looked straight out of Rome, formally water and now for a tram.

    Metropolitan Cathedral which is a cone shape. From the outside I personally think it looks terrible, but it is much better looking in the inside. It was designed and finished in 1979 to replace the original church which was not big enough for the growing population at the time.

    Ladeira da Misericórdia, also known as Mercy Slope, is a historic street. Named after the Misericórdia Church, a prominent religious institution founded in the 16th century by the Portuguese crown to provide assistance to the poor and sick. The church was part of the Misericórdia Brotherhood, an organization dedicated to charitable work.

    We even happened to walk into a central market area where people were hustling and selling literally everything you could imagine. Mainly cheap imports though.
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  • Royal Portuguese Cabinet of Reading

    12. september 2023, Brasilien ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    This building services as a place to house Portugese literature, manuscripts and documents. Some of the rarest books are here and it is huge. It was used to help keep ties between Brazil and Portugal. Unfortunately can't touch anything.Læs mere

  • Final drinks and thoughts

    12. september 2023, Brasilien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Before leaving, people asked me "Where are you looking forward to the most for your holiday?". Not once did I answer "Rio". I had the complete wrong impression of this city.

    Not only was it great, we fell in love with it. It's beautiful to look at and the people are beautiful to be with. It's lively, diverse, fascinating.

    We did so much, but there was so much more to do... Like swim 🤦‍♂️ who comes to Rio and not swim once?!

    We hope to be able to come back one day. And if someone asks me that same question, my answer will be Rio de Janiero.
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  • Chilly in Chile

    13. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We are definitely not in Rio anymore. Different language, and very different temperature. Blowing mist from our breath as we headed outside to the nearby sculpture park. A super pretty spot to wait for our tour guide.

    Towered over us was the ever present Sky Constanera building, the tallest in South America.

    Today, City Tour!
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  • Santiago

    13. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    Today started with a big city walk. By city walk, I just mean the central area, because Santiago is massive area wide.

    The best location to begin was at Santa Lucía Hill, this iconic hill was here the Spanish conquistador founded Santiago. Talking this from the indigenous of this region unfortunately, who also cherished this hill for their rituals. It is a panoramic view of the city as you walk around it.

    Next we moved to the Plaza de Armas (Which most Latin American cities have) which is a large square surrounded by government buildings and cathedral. A very lavish cathedral at that. We did have a little laugh at the arrangement for confessional here in Santiago. The cathedrals have multiple confessional areas around the walls facing inwards to the church. But the priest and person are literally completely visible and within earshot of anyone walking past. There is even a row of chairs just in front for those waiting.

    We went around to a museum for the fascinating eras of Pre-Columbian history. We have been listening to a podcast on the History of Latin America for the past 6 months, and we've found it so interesting. But the pottery, woodwork and fabric of this era is so unique and unusual.

    We walked though a lot of markets, everywhere people are selling things on the streets. One of the things we saw was the size of the hot dogs (Completos) and Hamburgers they have here. Every store has these in the window and they were gigantic, and the one labelled as gigantic was more epic. I asked if it was for one person, and my mouth dropped to hear yes. Lunch is the most important part of the day.

    This weekend is Chile Independence Day. They take that very seriously here, so everything was covered in the flags of Chile. Buildings, people, cars and pets.
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  • San Cristóbal Hill

    13. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    For a city, that we were told, doesn't actively practice religion... Almost everything we saw today was deeply religious based. This San Cristobal Hill continues that theme. It's the second highest point in the city and to get to the top you take a steep funicular, which is my new favourite word. They appear to be trying to make it a bit of a fun park by having an avery, market, food stalls, cable car, pools and all sorts of things. But sitting in pride of place on top of the hill is a 14-meter statue of the Virgin Mary. Someone worshipped heavily here in Santiago it seems based from the other cathedrals we saw today.

    Here we had a special local drink only made in Spring called More con Huesillo. Best I can describe it as a very sweet tea, it has a bottom of wheat that you eat with a spoon and an entire dried apricot soaking inside it (Seed and all). I didn't understand it, but I liked the taste. But definitely not for everyone.

    Our hotel was conveniently located a few blocks from the bottom of the cable car. So we took the ride on that back down to the bottom, getting a view of the northern part of the district and how pretty that area was.

    A big day of walking unexpectedly, my feet are definitely not best friends with me at the moment.
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  • Borago Restaurant

    13. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Borago is #29 of the 50 Best Restaurants in the world. And we are in this city maybe once and on holiday so we are going to do it.

    I can't really explain what any of these dishes are, apart from they are the creation of someone who has spent a long time researching and putting together a menu that celebrates the regions, tastes and delicacies of all of Chile.

    You are there for the experience of being taken on a journey from the north to the south, from the ocean to the Andes. Things like a soy sauce made from a special type of sea weed, to a perfectly cooked piece of slow bbq lamb.

    Matching Chilean wines that we absolutely loved every one of. Getting me the most drunk I've been in an exceptionally long time.

    We had a beautiful night in every way. And so did the bank of my credit card.
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  • Valparíso

    14. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    "This is my favourite place." is what Alex turned to me and said as we walked around the colourful, sunny, warm and exciting port city of Valparíso. The reason is in the name, Paríso is Spanish for Paradise. The hills we visited were declared UNESCO World Heritage to maintain the rich history of these buildings from the era where all the ships would stop here to refuel before the Panama Canal was established.

    Steep hills mean only one thing, more funiculars! Originally the city had 16 of these in operation dating back over a century. But now only 5 are in operation and maintained. Which I joked with our guide that it is a little concerning.

    Covered in some of the most creative and beautiful street art that we've seen. An area that has attracted the Bohemian lifestyle of artists of all types. Walking through the crazy steep an narrow streets to the sound of people making music and selling their art. Nothing square or straight, you question how any of this stays up in a light breeze let alone an incredibly earthquake prone region.

    Alex was definitely in his element, wowing around every corner. It was such a contrast to yesterday where Santiago was very grey and plain.
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  • Casas del Bosque Wineyard

    14. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    After last night's dinner we were now experts in Chilean wine. No, that's why it was good to come see the prices of how it was made in the Casablanca region half way between Santiago and Vapraíso.

    Doing a tour around this smallish winery, it was impressive to see the amount of automation they have been able to achieve through technology. Also using technology to be as conservative as possible since there are no natural lakes or rivers in this area so every drop of water counts. Running on only a handful of staff, even in the peek season.

    Finishing with a wine tasting of the different varieties here before heading back to Santiago.
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  • Moulin Rouge

    14. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Not letting our feet fall into a false sense of hope, we had back out again into the city for the night.

    When Bill Clinton visited Santiago as president, there was a late night portal event. After leaving, the President of the United States, decided to walk across the street to a small store where he purchased a diet coke. He drank it, had a photo, and left. Almost immediately after that night the store rebranded and then became a shrine to the man. La Picá de Clinton. Even displaying the actual empty can that was left behind.

    Next we walked around the now bustling with life streets and markets of Santiago. Everything on sale, vendors calling out their wares and luring you in.

    Every time we reach an open space, like a bridge crossing, the ever present Andes mountains appear with their snow capped peeks. Coming from a country that has nothing like that in comparison it takes my breath away each time I see them. They are just so beautiful.

    Heading to dinner at a place called Santa Colonia. This was where we were meant to stop and spend a couple of hours waiting for our night activity. But instead, my Spanish failed me again and somehow I must have said I wanted all the food to come out at once. Not only that, the portions were massive, the table could barely hold everything. We also forgot that smoking is fine here, so going to the terrace roof wasn't the best of ideas either. Delicious as the food was, we would have enjoyed it better if we paid attention to our extensive notes and planning we did.

    At the end of the night we met up with two local gay men Chris and Fransisco who took us to a LGBTQ club called Moulin Rouge, Chile is famous for their Drag Queens so we were in for a show. We were very mindful though that we were starting this evening at 10pm with a tour at 5am the next morning. We sat down and chatted about life in Chile and Brisbane over my new favourite drink Mistrel Ice - a premade Pisco alcopop. I don't know how I've gone all my life without finding Pisco. I think I could be convinced to start drinking again now.
    We got to try another famous drink here, Terremoto which means earthquake, it's a cocktail with wine, ice-cream and grenadine.

    The show began and it didn't take long before noticing the non Spanish speaking Australians in the audience. Quickly being targeted for jokes and comments that we were completely oblivious to except those translated to me by our new friends. Somehow the subject got to animals, and it turned out there was a song about Koalas. Next thing I knew, I was standing on stage with a much taller Drag Queen in front of me positioning herself with a run up to the cheers of the audience - to be a koala. Running and jumping up onto me, wrapping her legs around and supported completely by me... That was until she started bouncing and that's when the tree came falling down until we were on the floor together.
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  • Caijon del Maipo

    15. september 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    You can plan all you want. But you can always get a text message the day before telling you the thing you wanted most would not be possible. With a roll of your eyes, all you can do is ask what the alternative is...

    Turns out to be this stunning sunrise over an active volcano. Standing on a field which is 300m higher then the tallest mountain of our homeland, grazing donkies around us, the sound of a little stream in front of us and we're still staring up at these towering peaks beside us. We stop and wait for that perfect moment of the sun peeking over the edge and ready to start the day.

    Fueled by black coffee and an egg and cheese bun made locally at a.. Store? I'm not sure what it was, beside the house of our guide's mum. I'm sure that will help the 3 hours of sleep we had.

    But it didn't have to. Because it ended up being a pinch yourself moment getting to see and be part of such a beautiful view.
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  • A little adventure

    15. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    I knew the response to "Did you see the suspension bridge?" to Alex w as going to be "Where? Can I go on it?"

    But I'm sure he wasn't expecting to be harnessed up before taken down.

    Not bad for a fear of heights right? Unfortunately I had to be on camera duty, it's a tough job.Læs mere

  • Embalse el Yeso

    15. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    "The longest kilometre I've ever walked"

    I can't say I've never seen show before. It's hot, bright, painful. The novelty of snow wore off after the first 100m of the walk. But we were told that it is only 1km, no problems.

    It was very hard, a little easier on the way there, but 2 hours later when we came back it was really a struggle to move.

    The reservoir was pretty, but I've seen better. We made the most of it and tried to have fun as you can see. We felt accomplished at the end. Walking in the snow at an altitude of 2700m in the Chilean Alps is still pretty special.

    Afterwards we were rewarded with a delicious BBQ cooked by our driver. I'm the snow in a little shack.
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  • Sky Costanera

    15. september 2023, Chile ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    From most of my city pictures from previous posts, you might have observed this solo building in the background. Well we got dropped off nearby and head up to the 61st floor of the tallest building in South America to look over this massive city. We managed to catch it at sun set like we wanted. Staying until it was dark.

    Santiago is so big it goes off into the horizon in all directions.
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  • San Pedro de Atacama & Don Tomás Hotel

    16. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    There was no denying we were in the desert. Once the plane landed it was very obvious. Two days ago we were down at the ocean. Yesterday I was trudging through snow. Today I'm in the desert.

    We had to share a bus to take us to the town about 1.5 hours away. I think this was the best way to ease us into things getting a little rougher. Thankfully, our hotel wasn't roughing it, it was a very pretty oasis out here in the dust.

    San Pedro de Atacama seems to be a town purely existing for tourism. Every shop on the right little streets were to sell tours or sell things for tours. But what didn't understand is how do you find yourself all the way here, and not have your trips planned.

    While everyone worked out their plans, we continued with our plan while we waited for our hotel check-in to become available we headed for a walk through the town to a cute place to stop for lunch.
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  • Valle de la Luna

    16. september 2023, Chile ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    This afternoon we headed out to the Moon, here on Earth. Stepping out of the bus to overlook the clearly very violent events that have happened in this very unstable region of the world. Backing up that info was the many volcanos along the horizon which form the border between Chile and Bolivia.

    We visited a former salt mining area where stood natural art of the three sisters. We finished by going up to a big hill area that over looked the town. Where we stopped and watched the sun set and having some snacks.
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  • First steps into Bolivia!

    17. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    A shuttle bus to a land border crossing, and someone will meet you on the opposite side. That doesn't make me nervous at all. Especially since our driver spoke very limited English. But there we were standing in the cold waiting for the Bolivian Border Control to open because there is an hour difference.

    By the time we got back to the van we arrived on, there were a whole bunch of 4WDs lined up behind the vans. That was the end of the line for 2WD. That's where we meet our guide Albie and our driver Freddie, very appropriate names for taking a couple of Aussies around.

    The first stop across the border was the Green Lagoon. It looked pretty blue to me as we stood there for a while. In wasn't completely sure why we were there for so long. But what I didn't realise was the green of green lagoon comes from when the wind hits the water. And the wind starts at about 10am every day. Just as we were about to give up, over in the distance we watched the lake begin to turn from blue to a bright turquoise green. Almost right on schedule.
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  • Hot Springs

    17. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    This is a very popular path between San Pedro and Uyuni, so we were definitely not alone. We might not have put our swimmers on in Rio, but we sure did here. Dipping into a warm 35 degrees from the hot springs.

    Then we went over to a nearby "restaurant" and had a bit of lunch.
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  • Sol de Mañana

    17. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    If hot springs weren't enough to warn you that you're in an active volcanic area. Then the bubbling mass of mud, the hissing sound of steam and the smell of sulfer making you gag sure does.

  • Laguna Colorada

    17. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Our first look at flamingos in the wild. Happily feasting on the banks of this toxic lagoon of a mix of minerals. They go about their business as we walk by.

    That wind from earlier, once it starts, it doesn't stop. Growing stronger and stronger into the afternoon. Walking through it on the way back to the car it was about 60-70kms.Læs mere

  • Vamos, Senõr Freddie. Día 2.

    18. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Power generator electricity at the hotel between 7pm and 10pm only, it was a juggle to charge all our devices. But now back on the "road" again.

    First stop was Rock Tree. Formed when lava explosion came down into what was water covering this area and solidifying. Forming this unusual shape, a bit like a tree.

    Driving a little further we made an unplanned stop at this rock formation. Interesting on it's own, it wasn't until it was pointed out to us that it was covered in these adorable creatures called Viscacha. Rabbit looking except they have a really long tail. One was close enough that our guide Albie was able to hand feed it coca leaves.

    Quick stop for a photo at the 7 colours range before we stopped at the small salt flats to see the rail line that goes through Bolivia to Chile.

    Next stop was for the Flamingos again at Stinky Lagoon. Maybe the smellier the water is the happier the flamingos are it seems, as there were hundreds around in this lagoon. There is also a hotel literally on the banks of this lagoon. Where, I'm told, they take the water directly from the lagoon for showers and toilets etc. It has its name for a very good reason.
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  • San Juan and Inca Necropolis (Warning)

    18. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Just outside the town of San Juan del Rosario is a Pre-Columbian Necropolis. This small patch of area is covered in fossilized coral a few metres high. The Inca of this area hollowed out the inside of these corals and they would put to rest their dead. Filling the void with precious things for those people so they can start their new life rich.

    Over the other side of the town you can see the hills where the Inca (Señorío) had their crops of Quinoa, marked out with stone walls.

    Taking a quick drive over to the town, we got to see all the varieties of quinoa grown and all their different colours.
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  • Sunrise over the salt flats

    19. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ 🌙 1 °C

    Today's plan revolves all around the Salar de Uyuni, the world's largest salt flat and home to one of the world's largest lithium reserves under the crust.

    It's dry season at the moment, so the white hard crust resembles snow (This was way easier to walk in though).

    It was a great way to meet this massive landscape and get started for the day. Oh and a little bit of "desert" mechanics is a bit of fun to see too. Couple of pieces of cable without clamps to help jumpstart another car.
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  • Isla Incahuasi

    19. september 2023, Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    On our way out to the island our driver spotted something off in the distance and we headed towards it. Turns out it was a big maze being built from salt blocks that only a few weeks ago didn't exist. The speed to cut the bricks up and pile them together in such a shape was fascinating to me.

    Incahuasi island is one of sixteen islands in this giant salt flat. Our job was too climb to the top, but at an altitude of over 3600m, that is still a challenge.

    This island has a striking feature the moment you near it. It is covered in a forest of giant cacti. This cacti is Cardon Grande, and some of them are hundreds of years old because they only grow a few centimetres every year. This cacti only grows on this island in this region.

    The Inca would come to this island for the animals, like the llama, which liked to come here at different times. The Inca would walk 8+ plus hours from the main volcano in the area Thunupa where they lived.

    This island other incredible feature is it is made from huge fossilized coral. You'd never think this area was once covered with water and coral. But here it was, in the ground we stepped on for stairs, in the fences guiding us, and the hand rails to hold us.

    On the way back was a little archway and cave to pass through.
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