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Ruta Maya

November - December 2023
A 46-day adventure by John & CATHARINE Read more
  • 42footprints
  • 8countries
  • 46days
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  • 11.8kkilometers
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  • Ruta Maya
    1
    Day 14

    Day 10 - crossing border into Honduras

    November 16, 2023 in Nicaragua ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    A very early start to complete 100km to the Nicaraguan - Honduras border. 70km to lunch passed quickly with fantastic fast, sweeping descents with amazing views. Eating lunch at about 11am again! Then a long steep climb to the border - luckily the scenery was great - rainforest and beautiful flowers - to try and distract from neck / hand pain. Queue of trucks started from about 1km out and the roads became rutted and potholes with lots of dust and chaotic driving. First up we have to “log out” of Nicaragua. There is a queue if about 10 people but it is so incredibly slow. Every time the guy processes someone he goes off for about 10 minutes. We take the opportunity to change money with one of the money traders (see pictures) - apparently these black market traders keep the immigration centre functioning ! We are warned to insist on change as it’s a good way of the border officials making extra cash. After about an hour we are free to leave. John hands the leftover Nicaraguan money to a teenage girl who looks bemused as he tries to explain that he has no need for it. Then the usual double checks in no man’s land and up to the shack to get passports stamped and pay another fee to enter Honduras. Finally we are off. More chaotic traffic as trucks try and get by trucks waiting to cross the other way whilst negotiating the massive holes in the road. Catharine is hassled by a particularly aggressive dog.
    The roads are much worse in Honduras. And the driving is appalling. Several of us tell stories at dinner of being forced off the road - Catharine and John both separately forced off the road by one of the yellow school buses. The scenery is beautiful though and bizarrely there seems to be more wealth - we see a vet / pet store ! And adverts - and there are some more expensive cars around.
    The hotel Granada is in a bustling noisy town. The supermarket is clean and well stocked - and guarded by a guard with a shotgun - yet there are no pavements so you are dodging traffic / potholes / dirty puddles to walk the quarter mile to it. We are now down to 16 riders from the original 19 as Kate tests positive for COVID and is forced to isolate at the hotel and will not be allowed to ride tomorrow.    Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    Day 15

    Day 11 - Danli to Valle de Angeles

    November 17, 2023 in Honduras ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The first full days riding in Honduras. It is stunningly beautiful. We started out on a major road in town which was extremely busy at 7am. Noisy and polluted with large trucks, mopeds, tuk-tuks, the odd horse and cart and lots of old bikes. Then we got onto a major highway - thankfully there was a hard shoulder that we could ride on. The surrounding countryside was beautiful - very lush and green and looked like quite a lot of ancient pine trees.
    We passed over a big river and looked down to see a large truck in the river and next to it there were guys standing in water up to waist digging sand from the riverbed and putting it into the back of the truck. On the other side of the bridge there was a school bus in the river with a driver giving it a wash.
    We stopped at a small roadside vendor and there were 3 really sweet kids that Catharine spoke to in Spanish - Jennifer, Angel and Maria.
    Lunch was delicious as usual with lots of lovely salads and we emptied the stock of soft cold drinks from the fridge of the cafe the TDA group had set up at.
    After lunch we set off and John almost immediately had a puncture so he returned to lunch stop to fix it and Catharine started the 15km climb with Hubert. It was phenomenally hard and hot and John caught us half way up. The long steep climb took us to our rest day in Valle de Angeles in the Tigre National Park.    Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    Day 16

    Rest day in Honduras

    November 18, 2023 in Honduras ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A well earned rest day. Breakfast at 7 is a very late breakfast but unfortunately it’s the usual fare of scrambled eggs, beans and rice, cheese and fried plantain - which we have had our fill of. And the coffee is the usual also. We have high hopes of a good coffee in town - apparently Honduras is the 6th largest exporter of coffee in the world. After catching up on admin / emails / banking / Beth’s flat purchase and cleaning bikes and changing to thicker tyres ready for the next few days that will be gravel, we head into town. First coffee shop is disappointing so we ask a local and get directed to another which has colourful hammock seats (see picture). We ask for an americano with cold milk on side and end up with an espresso and a massive cup of frothy hot milk ! But also an amazing cheesecake. Then a bit of shopping - Honduras cap for John to add to his collection and other small bits and pieces. Lunch is a bit disappointing- tacos but the beef mince doesn’t look well enough cooked so we leave that. Catharine buys a bottle of water for a young girl who is selling biscuits and says she is thirsty, only to watch the wee girl then take the bottle outside and hand it over to an older women who pockets it - perhaps to resell ?
    John reads in the hammock outside in the afternoon - it’s a really lovely temperature - while Catharine uses the 3 basin washing system for the water bottles - washing up liquid and brush, water to rinse then diluted bleach. Catharine gets a virtual yellow card from TDA staff member for talking to Kate (in mask) from a distance of about 6 metres - a bit extreme.
    The proper TDA van arrived - only 2 weeks late - it was held up in a blockade in Panama so the vans we had been using were vans they had to hire in Costa Rica at the last minute.
    Dinner out at a restaurant that is made up of multiple restaurants all vying for your order - so Catharine had pizza from one place and John and the 5 other guys ordered from various other restaurants but we all sat at same table - the billing is complex but it works ! Bed just after 9pm ready for 5.10am start tomorrow.    Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    1
    Day 17

    Day 12 - Valle de Angeles to Zambrano

    November 19, 2023 in Honduras ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Back to a 5.15am wake up but we had both slept well. We all had a little sticky note on our bike, which said “Hills are tough, but so are you” which was a taste of what was to come for the day with nearly 7000 feet of climbing, a lot of which was off-road. Started the day with a road climb and then a 15km sweeping road descent which had stunning views as the mist rose around the valley. We had been told that we should ride in a group today although it was a bit vague why - rural area / risk of robbery etc. Dick had been looking at the Dutch government advice and noted that we were crossing the area where there was an advisory for essential travel only, so we set off in groups. Long sections of unpaved road which varied from hard packed rutted mud to loose gravel on hard packed mud - and some sort of road made of broken paving stones / rocks which made for a very bumpy ride. The day started beautiful and blue and a lovely temperature, and that lasted until lunch. Lunch as usual, was delicious - we ate lots of it even though it was only 11 o’clock when we stopped. After lunch came the steep gravel climbing in intense heat, which was pretty tough going. However, the little villages and rural areas that we passed through, were wonderful. Quite a lot of dogs running after the bikes today and one managed to get a bite, but only of John’s shoe. A welcome stop at a tiny shop that sold ice cream and we probably doubled their takings for the day when most of the riders stopped. 30 kilometres of the day was not so good as it was riding alongside the equivalent of a motorway in the UK. We were basically on the hard shoulder and it was noisy and dirty and grimy and the last 10km was uphill and pretty unpleasant. However, Honduras does has very little infrastructure and so it was a means to an end to get to our rather quirky guesthouse, which I am guessing is a Christian retreat given the content of the rooms. Our room is huge with 2 large wooden beds which are pretty firm and lots of religious art on the walls. We also have a large balcony with some quirky wooden furniture that’s overlooking rainforest which is very pleasant. However, because it was such a long hard ride today we won’t be able to make use for very long.Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    1
    Day 18

    Day 13 - Zambrano to Márcala

    November 20, 2023 in Honduras ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Another tough day of climbing. We started on a highway for the first climb and descent of the day but the views were amazing. Then we moved to gravel through stunning Honduras countryside. Colourful houses with washing hanging on fences, big coffee and banana plantations everywhere. We came to a large river which was too deep for the TDA lunch van to cross so it turned back to take another route. We assembled ready to do the crossing with our bikes - it was to be hip height water. Luckily a local came over and advised that if we walked quite a bit up stream it was only knee deep- so that’s what we did. A bit rocky underfoot but not too much of a current so it was fine. Then back on the dusty track through rural Honduras. We were covered in a disgusting mix of sweat, sun screen, bug spray, and dust by lunch.
    As we climbed after lunch we passed one of the impromptu rubbish tips towards the top - there was a fire burning and a lady sweeping through rubbish into a more organised heap. There were 4 young children playing in a cardboard box amongst the rubbish - very sad.
    At dinner we heard we were now down another rider - Sarah had decided to go home for a number of personal reasons. So that’s 3 of the original 8 ladies that have now left the tour. But at least Kate is allowed back tomorrow after completing her COVID isolation.    Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    Day 19

    Day 14 - Marcala to Gracias

    November 21, 2023 in Honduras ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Catharine decides to take the van to the lunch spot as this eliminates 30 km of uphill climbing and she would like to have a short day and arrive earlier at the hotel. John has a puncture first thing which he quickly fixes before setting off. Lunch is at a beautiful spot in the shade of a large canopy. Catharine rides with Kate who has just been released from isolation after a Covid infection so wants to take it easy. We have been warned that the roads are paved and full of potholes but it is surprising just how bad they are. There are massive craters, sometimes covering most of the road, which we somehow need to try and avoid which can be difficult if you are descending fast and the holes are hidden in patchy shadow - or there is a vehicle coming towards you on your side of the road that is also trying to avoid massive potholes! We pass through some bustling and vibrantly coloured villages. On arrival at Gracias, the town where we are staying, the street is packed with tuk-tuk taxis trying to get through the remaining open streets as the main thoroughfare is blocked by a huge fruit and veg market. We choose to get off our bikes and just walk through the market, rather than take a diversion with the traffic. We get plenty of stares as this is not a tourist town - not that we have really seen any tourists in Honduras! The hotel is a hidden gem. It has central courtyard with a swimming pool and lots of plants. Our room is on the upper floor and we have a moroccan style balcony arrangement outside overlooking the pool. We venture out to look at the fruit and veg market and go to a mini store where the lady is incredibly helpful in finding all our shopping for us. Needless to say they don’t take credit cardRead more

  • Ruta Maya
    Day 20

    Day 15 - Gracias to Copan Ruinas

    November 22, 2023 in Honduras ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Only John and Andrew decide to do the whole route today - they are the only 2 of the group to have ridden every km and not taken the van at any point. Catharine intends to take the van to mile 80km so she can see Autumn Statement and react if there is a change to ISA rules, but there is no change so she gets dropped off 30km in and starts riding. It’s 25km to lunch riding alone but everyone is friendly - though the guys fixing the road are making provocative gestures it seems to be good natured. Arrived at lunch stop at about 10am and managed to get the first decent coffee in ages from the petrol station. John arrives shortly after - his tummy is feeling a bit dodgy.
    Whilst at lunch we see a truck go by with 2 cows in the back and then the calf is in the passenger seat at the front ! Unfortunately we don’t manage to get a picture.
    Then a reporter turns up and says he has been sent by the local mayor who saw us passing through the local town. He interviews Carolina (our Brazilian TDA tour guide) while Sally and Catharine stand grinning either side the entire time as he films us for the local news channel! John is later stopped when he is on the bike as apparently the mayor wants him to come back to the town and be shown round and have a coffee with the mayor! John manages to use his pigeon Spanish to explain he needs to keep riding so he doesn’t have enough time to stop.
    We had been dreading the gravel section after lunch as we had been told it was worse than the worse gravel day in Nicaragua. However it turns out to be an amazing route through a rural but very hilly area. The scenery starts with pines and then becomes more jungle and rainforest. There are coffee plantations, horses carrying firewood, an old lady who walks barefooted on the gravel and various kids we interact with as we ride - as well as the usual dogs that run at the bikes barking vociferously. It threatens rain on and off but it never comes to anything and the temperature is really very pleasant. We manage to ride virtually the whole route only getting off on one rocky 21% uphill section and two treacherous bits of descent (one the road disappeared over the edge at the corner).
    Sadly once on the paved roads (interspersed with sections that were completely unmade!) we saw 2 dogs (separate locations) that had obviously recently been killed by cars as the vultures were just starting on them.
    The hotel is very nice and we are given cocktails by the pool before we head into town for a steak. The streets are cobbled stone and very quaint. We take all the leftover meat and feed it to the stray dogs on the way home.    Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    Day 22

    Day 16 - Crossing border into Guatem

    November 24, 2023 in Guatemala ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Today is a short ride of only 50km but still quite a bit of climbing but all in paved roads - apart from the usual odd aberrations. The border into Guatemala is at the top of a climb about 11km in and we start passing parked Lorries about 1km before the actual border. This is a far more efficient set up where the exit from Honduras is at one side of the room and the entry to Guatemala is on the other - rather than the no man’s land at the other border crossings. And we didn’t have to pay anything !
    Once into Guatemala we immediately exchange dollars for local currency - the Quetzel.
    There isn’t a massive change from Honduras to Guatemala in the way we saw on other border crossings - the scenery remains similar and the roads are surprisingly good for a border area.
    Lunch stop is at 45km and Justin is being treated by Helen, the TDA medic. A large lorry was coming towards him on a narrow bridge. He hit gravel and went down. Result is extensive gravel burns and stitches in the elbow which Helen puts in. We arrive at hotel about 11 and sit by the pool until rooms are ready. Very relaxed setting with lots of greenery around 2 pools and there are few guests other than our tour - no other gringos though    Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    Day 23

    Day 17 - Chiquimula to Jalapa

    November 25, 2023 in Guatemala ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A very hilly day with 7,400 feet of ascent over 50 miles. Started the day climbing through pine forests which became rainforest / jungle higher up as we looked across the valley to the volcanoes rising out of the mist. Air temperature was thankfully cool due to the altitude. There is a lot of rubbish all along the verge and no rideable hard shoulder for when traffic does get heavy.
    We stopped at a petrol station and while Catharine is standing outside the petrol station guarding the bikes while john is in the loo, a convoy of military vehicles pulls up and a load of soldiers jump out with rifles and establish a perimeter with rifles at the ready ! Rather concerning until Catharine manages to speak to the man in charge and he tells me it was routine and nothing to worry about 😥
    John goes into the shop to get a coke and there are about half a dozen heavily armed military, the store guard with a shotgun - and John !
    Back on the road and we come across Sally who has hit the kerb and nosedived into the undergrowth. John fixes her bike while the medic deals with her cuts and grazes.
    As we head through a little town we spot a great looking coffee shop and bakery. We have the most fantastic cortado with a hard but tasty biscuit. Catharine chats to the girls who are in their early twenties and they ask for photos, want to connect on Facebook and then hug us all when we leave !
    There are some very steep climbs that go on and on - 15% gradients - and it is hot and the sweat / sunscreen stings the eyes.
    Hotel is in a large-ish town which we have a walk around before dinner.    Read more

  • Ruta Maya
    Day 24

    Day 18 - Jalopa to San Juan de Pinula

    November 26, 2023 in Guatemala ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Beautiful rural Guatemala but 95% gravel and so much climbing (7,700 feet over 52 miles) made for a very hard days ride. Initially it was sandy track through little villages with subsistence farming. Several times we were passed by people on horseback plus the local bus was going up and down disturbing sand from the dirt road and picking up people for church. There was lots of music in the hills coming from these various churches - it is noticeable that the poorer the area, the more small churches there are. Lots of people were clearly in their Sunday best going to church, with lots of pretty dresses for the girls.
    When we got to the top of the first climb we stopped for a coffee in a local shop - we asked whether she got many tourists - no she said - about 5 in her time there ! We were over 2.500 metres so it was quite chilly and first time putting a warm jacket on for what was an amazing sweeping descent with views at every turn. We were starving by lunch at 1pm - we had been riding since 7am. The afternoon was hard - steep gradients and rocky hard packed dirt. Every bit of our bodies aches from the pummelling descents.
    We have a log cabin as our hotel room for the night. There is a log fire that John lights (and a camp fire outside) and our external balcony has a hammock.    Read more

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