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Walking in Europe 2023
  • Boxer
juin – août 2023

Walking in Europe 2023

West Highland Way, Paris, the Danube, Switzerland and the Dolomites of the northern Italy and south Tyrol En savoir plus
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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Garni Hotel Melissa at 330AM
    Sasso Lungo (Langkofel)Sasso Plato (Platkofel)trial along the Steger WayUnterfinzer HutteSeiser Alm (Alpi di Susi) gondola...above trail down to SuisiKastelruth (Castelrotto) in the backgroundDumplings garnished with mushrooms and capers..

    In the dark of the night

    23 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ 🌩️ 70 °F

    They arrived in the middle of the night…330am to be precise. They settled into their room quickly and I did not see or hear from them until 930 am, they were up just in time to have the continental breakfast that the Hotel Garni Melissa serves every morning.
    Steph, Peter and Boxer walked to the town of Seis Alm Schlern (Suisi) to catch the gondola to the top of the Seiser Alm where the plan was to hike south to Rifigio Molignon.
    Two and half hours later they were enjoying lunch near the base of Sasso Plato (Platkkofel,) a 9700’ peak.
    After lunch Steph and Peter ditched Boxer to head for the pass between Plattkofel and Langkofel. Boxer headed north by northwest for the Steger trail, named for a couple of alpine skiing and mountain climbing legends. What a treat, spectacular views and a cute hut with a spring to fill his water.
    That is where the enjoyment ended as I planned to walk back to the hotel. Many miles, steep descents and poor tread later I arrived in Kastelruth (Castelrotto). More than 20 miles hiked.
    I was only thinking about the ‘even dozen’, a hot shower, a cold beer and 10 hours of sleep.
    P.S. the three of us enjoyed a nice meal at Saalstuben.
    P.S. #2 - after lunch Boxer needed visit the water closet, as he was heading into the women’s he was saved by an English speaking fellow from Toronto. We exchanged pleasantries and chatted about our time in Europe, he was very interested in the West Highland Way. A few hours later we ran into each other near the gondola and he introduced me to his wife. If the story ended there I would not share it…while at dinner I was sharing the experience of being extricated from the women’s water closet when behind us was the hero himself. He was quick to verify Boxer’s account.    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Snack and route planning at Baita Sanon HutteHigh alpine meadow above Val GardenaHigh alpine meadows on the PizSasso Lungo or Langkofel (10,436') and Sasso Plato or Platlofel (9741')Picture taken by Steph on SundayDining in at the Garni

    Boxer doesn’t have a ghost writer

    24 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    Needless to say…It has been a few post’s since Boxer’s photo appeared in a footprint. He does exist. With the arrival of Peter and Steph one can take to the bank that there will be more pictures.
    Today the weather forecast dictates our schedule. We took advantage of the unlimited bus pass for travel between the small towns along the Dolomites in the Alpi de Suisi/Seiser Alm region. We decided to east to St Ulrich (Ortisei) and to Selva. On the route we passed through the alpine skiing community of Val Gardena.
    As the weather looked to be improving we decided to take the gondola from Ortisei up to Piz a different high alpine meadow northeast of the one I hiked on Saturday. The plan was to trek north to the gondola at Alpi di Suisi, the same lift that we used yesterday. Today I was either going to take the gondola down or catch the bus…not interested in the 2+ hour descent. As the weather deteriorated the bus became the best option, even at 16 €. (Not part of free bus travel)
    The balance of the day was split between researching different routes, updating the blog and sharing a meal (prepared by Peter and Steph) at our hotel.    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Fie Allo SciliarBox jumpKettlebellsLaghetto FieUncle Michael at Gmarti's wake - 2019Aunt Ellen+Mike Minert at wake for Gmarti (2019)

    The skies spoke to me

    25 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    The fourth day at the Garni Hotel Melissa began with a thunderstorm reminiscent of the ones I experienced in western North Carolina.
    With it came a cloudburst, I referred to my weather app and it suggested that the storm may last most of the day.
    My plan was to head southwest down the valley to Fie Allo Sciliar (an emphatic ‘hello Sciliar’) the town is underneath the Sciliar the emblem of the South Tyrol. Once there, I would hike up to a lake referred to as Laghetto Fie and beyond to what my map shows as a ‘wood cross fit’ feature.
    This intrigued Boxer…what he found was an outdoor gym constructed with materials available in the forested meadow (save some of the metal posts.)
    Boxer was fully prepared to find a group of people working out.
    Not so…maybe it was the remoteness, but this amazing outdoor gymnasium was designed for children to young adults.
    After lunching on a bench across the meadow I left for Laghetto Fie and walked back to Suisi to catch a bus back to Castelrotto.
    Steph and Peter met me at the garni just in time for the three of us to walk into Castelrotto for dinner at a restaurant known for its pizza. It was a good place to relax and reflect on our day in the Alpi di Suisi.
    It was a melancholy day for Boxer…on his walk to the forested gym he reflected on how much he missed his older brother Michael, who passed twelve weeks ago and his sister Ellen, a year and a half ago. The skies were shedding tears as well…    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Sasso Longo and Sasso Plato
    Sasso Plato - Steph and Peter's goal to climbDon't know whether you can book this cabin below Sasso Plato..looks fairly rusticArrived with 'gas in the tank'The path to Rifugio di TiresItalian AlpsAn unplanned rendezvousSasso Plato (left) and PassoDuron (Duron Pass right)

    Boxer humbled

    26 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today the plan was to hike in the zone of the two prominent peaks Sasso Longo and Sasso Plato
    With that goal in mind we set out early to drive to Alpi di Suisi. Blue skies with a brisk breeze met it was chilly. From there
    Steph and Peter caught the first bus to Saltria, while Boxer dawdled (not an unusual verb to describe him.) He visited the WC and put on more layers. This dilly-dallying was ok as Boxer was not going’s to climb to the top of Sasso Plato. His plan was to trek to the hut at the trailhead leading up to Sasso Plato, a multi mile walk with a commensurate elevation gain. As with most of the popular treks in the Alpe di Suisi, one can take a gondola or chairlift to start the journey. Boxer calls it “lift assist”.
    I caught the next bus to Saltria the small town below Sasso Plato to start the hike. Two hours later I arrived at the alpine hut, tired but still had ‘gas in the tank’. I pushed on with the goal of reaching the junction of a trail that would lead back to Saltria. This is where my hubris got the best of me. Rather than taking the trail I continued on to a hut at Duron Pass, another four miles ahead…half way there I ‘bonked’, Even after stopping for a snack and tea I was wasted. It was decision time, turn back or push forward to the hut at the end of the path. Boxer arrived at Rifugio Alpe di Tires with one thing in mind…some nourishment…a beer and seltzer water. As fate would have it Steph and Peter arrived (totally unplanned,)
    After they took on a more sensible meal we all trekked back to the car, another 4 miles away.    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Early morning above Castelrotto
    Part of the ambiance at the top of the Marinzen chairlift and hutThey are leading Boxer up the trail to the high alpine meadowForested trail with creeks coming off the BullacciaThe area is dotted with small farms with livestockMaking my way to Bullaccia and lunchDumplings over cabbage, garnished with a local flavor. The Tschotsch hutView from a bench down to the area west of Boxer's garniTomorrow's hike is up and over the Sciliar to the Bolzano hut

    Tranquility with a dash of hubris

    27 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    With twelve hours of sleep I was ready to explore another area of Alpe di Suisi. Today the plan was to use “lift assist” from Castelrotto to the start of a trail that would lead to Bullaccia, an alpine meadow with multiple huts to visit. I just had to choose which one I was going to lunch at.
    The chairlift reminded Boxer of those at Multorpor/SkiBowl… no high speed quad. The views were special, although Boxer worried about dropping his iPhone from lift while trying to get that perfect shot…
    The hike was the antithesis of yesterday’s climb. Forested most of the way with good tread and spectacular views to the west and the icon of the region the Sciliar. The carrot at the end of the walk was lunch at Baita Tschotsch Alm.
    Steph and Peter were exploring a different area of Alpe di Siusi, so Boxer was able to trek at a more familiar pace…
    After lunch I retraced my route back to the Marinzen hut and a chairlift ride back to Castelrotto, sit by the pool and even do some grocery shopping for tonight’s dinner. And mentally prepare for tomorrow’s game plan…    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Rifuglio Bolzano 2450m - the goal
    The route was up the face of the Sciliar, although there is a valley betweenThe pathSome parts of the trail were better than othersAnother hat picture opportunityBoxer can see his respite in the distanceOne third lemonade/two thirds beer is called a RadlerHow they get food, alcohol and anything else needed-3 to 7 times per dayThe Moarbodn hutte this young boy not only served beer...He multi-tasksContinue the descentThe difference between the ascent and descent was remarkable

    Ode to Radler

    28 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    As promised today was going to morph between a stroll in a high alpine meadow to hiking carefully through switchbacks on the northeast face of the Sciliar. Lunching at the Bolzano hut, (more on that later) and a steep descent to Fie Allo Sciliar.
    Boxer has become proficient at calculating meters to feet as a self preservation tool. He uses the Gmarti rule - multiplying the number of meters by 3.27 (Marti's birthday) to come up with feet.
    Today we started at 1850m, dropped down into a valley, then scaled up 800m to Bolzano hut.
    This particular mountain hut has no road to it. The only way that food and alcohol is available is by a cable system from above Fie Allo Sciliar. In addition the servers live at this hut for two months (and longer) at a time.
    After meeting up with S+P for lunch we all made the three hour trek down to the catch a bus back to our Garni and a hot shower before a refreshing swim.
    Note: along the way we passed 3 more refuges one in particular was memorable. See video    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Early morning above Castelrotto
    Attempting to get to refuge rendezvousSteph's video - listen for the sound of the alphornSeldom used trail, although identified on the trail guideMarinzen chairlift#12 trailFind Penguins....actually P+S1The Marinzenhutte

    The frenzied and muddled rendezvous

    29 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today is the last full day Peter and Steph are in this German speaking part of Italy.
    After packing they headed for the southeastern end of the Alpe di Siusi section of the Dolomite’s. My plan was to rendezvous with them at some point in the afternoon. The best of intentions evolved into a constantly changing marker as to where we would meet.
    Boxer had intended to explore the same area without taking the trail they were trekking on.This plan was curtailed when the Ciamponoi gondola experienced mechanical difficulties.
    Boxer took a bus back toward Castelrotto and a trail that would take him toward Malga Schafstallhutte, a favorite refuge, where the food is good and the beer is cold. The trail he chose was fine to begin with but the closer he got to the rendezvous point the more the trail seem to disappear. It was from the looks of it a seldom use path. At one point the trail just came to an abrupt end, necessitating Boxer to bushwhack his way to a paved road. This would lead to a chairlift ride to a trail that he was sure would intersect with his companions.
    Meanwhile P+S were trekking below the Sasso Longo listening to a guided party being serenaded by an alphorn. I took the Marinzen chairlift from Castelrotto and the #12 trail west to a place I felt our paths would cross. We scrubbed the planned refuge for the Marinzen hutte and a couple of Radler ‘s.
    Note: in a stroke of irony I gave the moniker of Radler to an coworker at Weyerhaeuser - Rick Adler -many years ago…he is no longer with us and missed    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    A different aspect of the Castelrotto Parish ChurchCastelrotto/Kastelruth grade schoolThe Germanic influence is apparent...although Boxer had trouble identifying the letter 's'Castelrotto/KastelruthThe Sciliar above St Oswald

    PS PS postscript to Peter and Steph

    30 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Just as they arrived in the middle of the night they departed for Milan and the long flight home to rendezvous with the ‘littles’
    Boxer conversely was going to take a much needed rest day! And explore the hamlet of Castelrotto, visit the tourist information office, find the location where he could launder his clothes, find a salon and maybe a pedicure for his weary feet.
    Castelrotto is quaint, with just a few eateries, so the Eurospar and Konsum grocery stores are quite popular. More in a later blog about this ‘hideaway’ in the Südtirol
    Today I took pictures of the grade school that serves this farming community turned vacation destination. Boxer suggested in a conversation with Mimi that the Springdale school in Corbett might be a candidate for the murals painted by students.
    The balance of the day was spent exploring by bus St. Oswald area northwest and down valley from Castelrotto, it was directly north of the area that P+S and I descended from the Rifuglio Bolzano. I enjoyed seeing this place so much that I plan to visit it again tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    1Walk to Castelrotto from the garni, a staple of these towns is a church
    Autostation aka bus stationPflugerhof - herbs and flower farmFestival of dumplingsPflugerhof farm toward SciliarSo many varieties of tomatoesSt Vigil golf clubLunch plate at St. Vigil golf clubFour difficult types of dumplingsDumpling dessert...with strawberries in the center and coated with brown sugarSchlern wind sings to folks enjoying a local staple ...dumplingsDesset was a dumply with fruit in the center

    Pflugerhof to Festa dei canederli

    31 juillet 2023, Italie ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Boxer lived in both the Italian and German cultures today, but the Germanic influence was dominant.
    Visited Pflegerhof a herb, vegetable and flower farm - they produce medicinal herbs, as well. The variety of tomatoes was also a major source of their business. After wandering through their fields I purchased some seeds for future planting.
    The St Vigil Golf Club was a mile walk back towards Siusi…on a one way road that allowed two way traffic. The only thing Boxy purchased was a appetizer plate and a beer.
    The highlight of the day was the Knödelfest (GR)/Festa dei canederli (IT) or the Festival of dumplings. Long tables were set up in the plaza by the church and guests were treat to music ‘belted out’ by the Schlern Wind duo while they sampled dumplings and beer. Boxer felt right at home …if only he knew some German to sing along!!    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    The late afternoon sun shines on Castelrotto
    From which the "witches" comeThe Schlern (GR) or Sciliar (IT) as a back dropThe Puez-Odle group of massifs in the background"Witches Night"Strauben (GR) or Frittelle altoatesine (IT) served hot with powdered sugar and jamThe finished treat very popular in this region of Alto Adige (IT)Stockbrot..or a campfire eclairsCastelrotto Parish Church

    Michael on my mind and more

    1 août 2023, Italie ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    It is somewhat unusual for Boxer to spend time in a church, but today I found solitude in the Castelrotto Parish Church, the “Dome on the Mountain”.
    Michael would have turned double 7’s today.
    There are few things I remember from my childhood, one was being an acolyte in the Episcopal church in Ashland following Michael’s footsteps. Michael and I both were child actors at the Shakespeare Festival, usually the lone one in the particular play. And days at the large swimming pools - Twin Plunges. The fact that I am six years younger made being close difficult. I was mostly annoying to him and when Ellen was added to the equation he was looking for a way to leave home. We will spread his ashes in the arboretum he created soon.
    After an hour of silence, I got the much needed hair and eyebrow trim. Tonight is the Hëxennachte (GR) or Notte delle Streghe (IT) - “Witches Night” in the same plaza as last night’s festival. More music and desserts.
    As I was walking up to the venue the sky cleared from the earlier thunderstorm and allowed the setting sun to shine it’s light on Castelrotto and the surrounding Dolomiti.
    The only thing missing is sharing this experience with my family…    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    The bus stop near the beginning of the Hans+Paula Steger trail. Note the name at bus stop
    Spring and trough at Boxer's favorite hutView of Sasso Plato and Sasso Longo from the Unterfinser HütteOne of a number of chairlifts along the trail todayThe sign should read "Widener Egg...Boxer's middle name and Egg=mountain ridge

    Penultimate day in the Südtirol

    2 août 2023, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    The weather again dictated the trek Boxer was going to take. Although, he had a specific area and path in mind. If there was a favorite trail in Alpi di Suisi the the Hans and Paula Steger Wey was it. It had all the ingredients; it was located in Saltria region, a place to stay and ski out of in the winter. There were a couple of refuges or rifugi (IT) to stop and have a meal if so inclined and there was my favorite hut that could be rented. The Unterfinser Hütte, small and eclectic with a beautiful view of the Sassos Plato and Longo.
    The trail was named for two alpine skiing and mountain climbing legends who moved to the Alpi di Suisi area after WWII. They built and operated a hotel here for the rest of their lives.
    Boxer found the trail moderately difficult, and fittingly appropriate.    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Hay cream soup in a roll served with cabbage salad and speck (bacon)One cuts their pizzaDumplings from Zur Alten Schmeide (the old forge) our favorite restaurant in CastelrottoDumpling from Baita Tschötsch Alm (Tschötsch's small dwelling in mountain pasture)Radler (1/3 lemonade and 2/3 beer)Radler on the menuA trip through the Swiss AlpsAu revoir you treated me well

    Arrivederci Castelrotto/Südtirol

    3 août 2023, Italie ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    I had only an idea of what to expect when I arrived in the German speaking Italian town of Castelrotto 12 days ago. My plan was to day hike this region of the Dolomites using only the map that had been sent to me from the Castelrotto tourism office. With the exception of last Sunday I achieved that goal. The fact that Peter and Steph joined me for 8 days was a huge motivator, too.
    Boxer had a few takeaways from his stay: 1) on trails that allow bikes “peddle assist” (e-bikes) out numbered mtb’s.👇 2) the hiking/walking attire was a level above…hiking shorts and boots v shorts and trail shoes. 3) automobiles were as fashionable as the attire…not a older model to be seen and few pickups, especially given that this is/was a farming area. (No Subi’s either) 4) cigarettes are just as popular as the rest of Europe. 5) shops, banks and service businesses close everyday from noon to 3PM.
    Boxer did enjoy the food…the cabbage salads, the soups (inside of rolls,) the single sized (unsliced) pizza, the dumplings (filled with speck and cheese dappled with butter) and especially the hot raspberries with vanilla ice cream.
    Boxer made the train in Bolzano headed to Milan. The first half of the three hour journey was in a valley not more than two miles wide. With vineyards from high on the hills down to the valley floor. The rest of the trip to Milan was similar to the Willamette Valley. After a train change Boxer was heading west to Geneva and a brief passage through the Swiss Alps, unfortunately the pictures from the train were not great. Shortly after the route drops down to Lake Geneva to circumnavigate to Geneva.    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    My companions for six weeks
    The table that Mimi and I shared for our 40th...just missing MimiGeneva airport waiting for the first leg of a flight to PDXAmsterdam first leg completedMt. Adams...Boxer is feeling the Oregon/Washington vibeMt. Adams...thanked the co-pilot on the shuttle from the passport entry locationMt. St. Helens...PDX soon

    If you can’t be with the one you love

    4 août 2023, Pays-Bas ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    Love the place your at…that has been my signpost for this six week trek in Europe. Boxer was well outside of his comfort zone at times and more than once was watched over by a guiding force.
    As this adventure progressed he became more confident in his ability to adapt to the environment and challenges he faced.
    Quite frankly he was more than happy to be able to get to Glasgow and find the hotel he and Joe Hoppe were staying at before heading to the West Highland Way. Just to have a familiar face to trek with the next seven days to was comforting. We met some interesting folks along the way. Jill, the middle school art teacher from McMinnville who was trekking the WHW alone as a tribute to her partner who had passed away at a young age. The mother and son duo were doing it for the the second time. And others too numerous to mention between Scotland and the Südtirol of northern Italy over the next six weeks.
    The flight back to west coast was filled with the anticipation of a reunion with Mimi and the ‘littles’ including Waves who Boxer missed more than he thought possible.    En savoir plus

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  • BoxerWalking in Europe 2023Voyageur
    Joe,Alice,Peter,Steph,Boxer,Kathy,Brandon,Bekka,Jason, Mimi,Alpine,Kristina,Joe, Waves

    Home Sweet Home …an epilogue

    5 août 2023, États Unis ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Grandma Ella had a ceramic plate hanging on the wall in her Morton Street home that was a source of curiosity to Boxer. ‘The words ‘Home sweet Home’ were painted on the plate and there was a small house with smoke coming out of the chimney.
    Nearly 70 years later I have found a new appreciation for those words. My time in Europe was enlightening, invigorating and deeply rewarding… coming back has helped me understand why home and family are so important and impactful in my life.
    I am looking forward to more opportunities to hike with Joe Hoppe.
    To enhancing the bond between myself and Michael’s soulmate Kathy (and her family). While staying connected to Ellen’s legacy with Mike MInert.
    I am grateful to have a chance to be a part of the ‘littles’ lives…Bridger, Alpi and Waves.
    To watch with envy (and a critical eye) the constantly evolving look of the lives of their parents.
    And most importantly a renewed appreciation for the relationship I have with Mimi…

    Note: in the photo caption Bridger's name does not appear...he is our version of 'find Waldo'    En savoir plus

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    Fin du voyage
    4 août 2023