• Todd and Ann Zimmel

Camino de Santiago

On September 5th, Todd and I will set out on a bucket list adventure, hiking 800km of the Camino de Santiago. We are doing the Francés Route, which starts in St. Jean Pied de Port in France and finishes in Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Read more
  • Villafranca montes de Oca to Cardeñuela

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Well this has been the hardest day yet. We left Villafranca in the blustery winds and we had an uphill hike for a few kilometers. Within the hour the driving rains came. Despite our rain gear we were wet and cold. There were no villages for 12km so nowhere to stop and get a reprieve. Eventually we made it to the next village and stopped for coffee and a sandwich. I was truly ready to take a taxi all the way to Santiago but reluctantly mustered up the mental strength to continue on for the next 12km to our albergue for the night. If not for Todd’s patience and continues support I would not have made it. Eventually the rain lightened up. We had a very remote and quiet walk. We hardly saw any pilgrims along the way.
    We were very happy to arrive at our albergue where promptly showered, did laundry, rested and then had our pilgrim dinner. Our host must have felt sorry for us and she brought out shots for all of us after dinner. An impromptu karaoke happened after dinner with people singing drinking songs from their home countries
    Dinner with France, Martinique, Brazil, Hong Kong
    25km 9hrs
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  • Todd’s walk into Burgos

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Since we are having a rest day in Burgos, we will put up some pictures from Todd’s 15km walk from Cardeñuela Rio Pica into the beautiful city of Burgos with Cécile and Clair.
    I’ve also added a couple of photos of the automated public toilets in Burgos. I felt like I was in a scene on Star Trek. When you go in, a recording comes on with instructions. When you leave the washroom gets automatically sanitized.
    My feet and cold are both on the mend so hope to be back on the road tomorrow for at least a short walk.
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  • Cardeñuela Riopica to Burgos

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today I had to taxi 15km to Burgos. All that walking in the rain yesterday totally aggravated my blisters plus I am dealing with a cold. We called a taxi and when it arrived, 2 other pilgrims from Italy asked if they could catch a ride with me. Absolutely! Instead of the ride costing me €30 it was only €10. Todd walked the 15km into Burgos with Cecile and Claire. We met up at the incredibly beautiful Cathedral of Santa Maria. We also ran into our old friend Angela today. Todd and I have decided to spend tonight and tomorrow night in a hotel in Burgos to let my blisters and cold heal. And to get a good night sleep.
    I also finally agreed to let Claire pop my blisters….in the middle of the main square of Burgos. We were a source of entertainment for many. I am squeamish with that stuff and nearly passed out.
    For dinner tonight, Todd went to the grocery store and we stuffed our faces with cheese, crackers, olives, chips, nuts, chocolate and wine.
    It was a sad day because we parted ways with our very dear Camino family Cecile and Claire. Cecile will be going back home to the French Alps soon. But hopefully we will be able to catch up with Claire again.
    15 Km 3 hrs
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  • Exploring Burgos

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Took the opportunity to explore more of Burgos since we are here for an extra day. Came across a wedding at the magnificent cathedral. I loved all the beautiful outfits everyone was wearing. I have to say the Spanish people know how to dress!! It helps that they are all very skinny!!Read more

  • Burgos to Rabe de las Calzadas 14km 4hrs

    September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Took it easy today with a slow and short walk out of Burgos. My feet were still sore after the blister popping so I walked in sandals today which was ok.
    We stayed in a great little albergue where we met Joaquin from Argentina. Such an interesting young man. We had dinner tonight with people from Switzerland, Holland, Brazil, USA and Argentina. After dinner many of us walked over to the local convent and participated in their evening Vespers (prayer) service (in Spanish) The nuns were amazing. They gave us all beautiful medallions of the Virgin Mary at the end of the service.Read more

  • Rabe de las Calzadas to Hontanas 18km 5.

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today we entered the part of the Camino called The Meseta. It is a long flat area of farmland, Corn, wheat and sunflower fields for as far as the eye can see. There are few shadows and the sun was scorching hot 🥵. This is the type of terrain that we have imagined the Camino would be like before we began. We find this section so beautiful and serene. They say the first part of the Camino is the physical challenge…and it surely was. The Meseta is now the mental challenge. We found the crowds have thinned as many people choose to skip this part, But for those that continue it is a time for reflection and soul searching. We think we are up for the mental challenge of The Meseta, as long as our bodies are.
    Ann is still walking in sandals, thank goodness for the flat terrain.
    We are staying in a modern albergue (although still in a very old building) that has a spa attached. Our fanciest one yet, but we still have to share a large room with about 25 others. At least the beds are comfortable and well spaced out.
    Had a lovely dinner tonight with people from Columbia and Germany.
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  • Hontanas to Puente Fitero 19k. 6 hrs

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Another beautiful walk through the Meseta…..except it’s not as flat as we thought it was. Had a 1000m ascent and a 350 m decent. But the weather was just perfect for a morning uphill hike. No shadows on the Meseta and by the afternoon the sun is scorching. So we stopped at 1:30 at the albergue we are most excited about. An ancient pilgrim hospital!! It has no electricity. Dinner is currently cooking and it smells heavenly. (Italian tonight) Will put up a post just about the albergue after dinner.Read more

  • San Nicholas albergue Puente Fitero

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We were so lucky to find this gem of a hostel. It is a very old hospital for pilgrims that is now run by an Italian association. They provide dinner, breakfast and roof over our heads for a donation. The meal was spectacular. We had pasta and our second course was meat and potatoes. Fruit and cake for dessert. And of course all the bread and wine we could stuff in our mouths. Nice to have some good old Italian pasta after all that paella. Our hosts are most entertaining
    They did a foot washing ceremony before dinner to symbolize Jesus washing his apostle’s feet.
    We had so much fun at dinner. We dined with Portugal, Italy, Venezuela, England and Poland.
    We all helped clean up and now we are about to be serenaded but some of our talented pilgrims. I sat beside a young girl who has 3 of her songs on Spotify. Her name is Maya Von and she is very good. All of this is by candlelight as there is no electricity
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  • San Nicholas to Poblacion de Campos 19k

    September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    A pleasant walk 19k in 5.5 hours. We had a great night in our albergue, the old pilgrim hospital with no electricity. We were woken up at 7am to a Gregorian chant. As the sun does not come up til about 8am we had a candlelit breakfast. We had a group blessing before our departure. It was a later start to our walk (8:45) than usual so that resulted in some hot walking in the mid day sun. We walked a bit with Mary Lou from Florida who we have been meeting up with the last few days. We walked along a beautiful canal for a few kilometers. It was beautiful. Tonight we are treating ourselves to a private room with our very own bathroom!! Woohoo.Read more

  • P de Campos to Carrion de los Condes 17k

    September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Another easy walk today. 17k in about 5 hours. Depending on the source, we are approximately half way there. Only 400ish Km to go!! We took a variant of the Camino that kept us in a more shaded route. The last part of the walk was along a road with no shadows. Luckily we did it early enough in the day that we didn’t feel too hot.
    We decided to do our big meal as lunch. So much food when you order the menu del dia. We met up with some other pilgrims from the States and Brazil and dined with them. This restaurant came highly recommended. It was full of locals. It was the first time this trip that we had to wait to be seated.
    In the evening we attended a pilgrim mass and received a pilgrim blessing on the alter afterwards. It was beautiful
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  • Carrion de los condes to Leon 100km

    September 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We really made great time today….thanks to the ALSA bus. After taking time off to heal blisters and recover from a cold, there was no way we would make it to Santiago in our allotted time. So we decided to hop on the bus. As much as we didn’t want to do this, we knew it was the best decision for us. The funniest thing about the bus was that it was mostly full of pilgrims…we aren’t the only ones jumping ahead. The good thing about moving ahead is that we are catching up with some of our friends that had moved on. We were able to meet up with Josiah for drinks tonight.
    Leon is a beautiful city, vibrant and alive.
    The other great thing about being in Leon is that we found a note that friends, Nancy and Mark, from Cleveland, left hidden for us about 10 days ago. They are doing the Camino as well and when they were in Leon, they wrote us a lovely note and tucked it behind a sign. We were hoping it would still be there when we got to Leon and sure enough it was. What a great little surprise and morale booster to get us through the rest of the Camino. Thanks Nancy and Mark.
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  • Leon to Villar de Mazarife 20km 5 hrs

    September 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Day 22 on the trail. Some days it feels like we have just started, other times it feels like we have been doing this a lifetime. Today we left the hustle and bustle of the big and beautiful city of Leon and returned to the quiet country side, which we both agree is our preference. There were two paths to choose from, we took the alternate which is slightly longer but more beautiful. But still very little shadows . The days continue to be sunny and very hot. It’s nice to get off the trail early and into the shadow.
    Our albergue tonight is very old school. All the old locals are here….and they all smoke. We really can’t believe how many people smoke in Spain…and they smoke everywhere!
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  • Villar de Mazarife to Santibanez 20km5hr

    October 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We started before 7am in the moonlight. The sun doesn’t rise here til almost 8:30 so that gives a good chunk of time to hike in cool weather. It was so pretty with the slightly less than full moon guiding us. Todd took a picture and when we looked at it, the moon looked like a cross!!
    We walked with Joyce from the Netherlands today. She was going on another 7km past us. Hopefully we catch up with her again.
    Our albergue is very nice. Quieter than yesterday’s party spot.
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  • Santibanez to Astorga 14k 4hrs

    October 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Another tough day for me. The night before I had a cough come on and it kept me up most of the night. Of course we are in a dorm room with 10 other people so I went and sat outside for a few hours. It was actually quite peaceful under the almost full moon. But I was so tired from coughing and not sleeping. The next big village that would have medical care was 13km away. Our albergue hostess was so sweet and helpful. She called several taxi companies to pick me up and bring to Astorga. No one would do it so we walked. Luckily I wasn’t feeling too bad at that point. When we got to Astorga we got a hotel room. The concierge was also very kind and helpful. He told us how to get to the medical centre. Once there it was like a comedy show, since the receptionist did not speak English, but as always, we got it figured out. Luckily the doctor spoke decent English. He said I had a respiratory infection and prescribed some antibiotics and something to calm the cough (he also had me do a Covid test, which was negative)
    Todd is like a rock. He is feeling good and patiently looks after me. I think he could have finished this Camino and started another if he didn’t have to wait for me 🙃
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  • A day in Astorga

    October 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    If you have to stay put for a day then Astorga isn’t a bad place to be. A couple of great things happened because we were here. First of all, we met up with Clair, who we travelled with for almost 3 weeks. So nice to see her again. We also met someone who lives in the same small town in Manitoba (Souris) as my cousin!! And she knows him. That is one small world!
    I’m feeling better and ready to get back on the trail in the morning. We will see how tomorrow goes.
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  • Cruz de Ferro to Molinaseca 18km 5.5hr

    October 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    What a beautiful hike today, so nice to be back in the mountains. We shared a taxi with 2 pilgrims from Australia from Astorga to Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross) which is the highest point on the Camino (1500m). I still was not feeling 100% and the thought of making that climb was just too much for me. We got to the Cruz to Ferro around 9am and left our stones there. Leaving a stone there symbolizes leaving a burden behind….. I am surprised Todd didn’t leave me behind.
    As much as we were grateful not to have to climb up that hill, the downhill climb might have been even harder. We walked about 18km all downhill over some rocky terrain. But oh so beautiful!! And boy did our calves hurt in the morning.
    And a nice surprise along the way, as Todd and I were sitting on the grass taking a snack break our old friend from the very first day on the Camino, Josiah, walked by. So nice to walk with him again.
    For dinner we bought some salad and a big bottle of chocolate milk. So yummy.
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  • Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo16km

    October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today we walked through a lot of small villages. We also took a bus a few kilometers to make up for the extra days we took for my blisters and respiratory infection to heal. As much as we wanted to walk the entire route, we do find it interesting to figure out and get on the public transit systems that the locals use. We were in a small village and just flagged the bus down as it was going by. Fun!
    We went out for dinner tonight with 2 interesting ladies from the USA and one of the many cats that we have seen along the way was hanging out by our table. Todd had fish for dinner and graciously gave the cat the fish head! That was one happy kitty.
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  • Villafranca del Bierzo to Los Herrerios

    October 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We left the beautiful village of Villafranca del Bierzo at 7:30 this morning in the dark and it was a chilly start but we tough Canadians plodded on with just our shorts and t-shirts, while all the other pilgrims were all bundled up. It was a steady uphill climb into the mountains all along the Rio de Valcarce. Once the sun rose, it warmed up quickly. We made really good time and were surprised to see our beautiful hotel so soon into our 20km hike. It was like an oasis. Such a spectacular hotel surrounded by the mountains and sheep and cows (with bells) grazing below our terrace. This is a place we would love to come back to and spend a few days in the area and just enjoy the serenity. Tomorrow morning we make a big climb up to O’Cebreiro. We are looking forward to some amazing sunrise views.Read more

  • Los Herrerios to Hospital de Condesa

    October 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We made the big climb (8km) up to O Cebreiro. It was steep in parts but nothing we couldn’t manage. The hike was beautiful, through the mountains and fields of cows. Having our morning coffee as the sun rose was spectacular! We noticed a lot more pilgrims on the way up to and in O Cebreiro. However, things were much more quiet on the way down. Part way down the mountain, (6km down) we were able to catch a bus that took us to Sarria. This should be our last form of public transportation as we feel we are now on track to complete the rest of the Camino on foot by October 14th. Sarria is a starting point for many pilgrims as it is the shortest distance to Santiago de Compostela which qualifies for getting an official Compostela.
    Once we arrived at our hostel in Sarria, the host took our money and then said “I will drive you to your room”. Todd and I were confused but he assured all was good. He ended up taking us to a huge apartment that was lovely but had other people in each room. We were all surprised as this was not what any of us had booked. But it all turned out well as we quickly connected with a lovely mother and daughter from Denmark. There is an older Spanish couple staying in one of the rooms as well but they keep to themselves. Not sure what their story is but they are quiet so that’s all that matters.
    Tomorrow marks day 30 on the trail (& our 35th anniversary 🎊🎉 😘) and our final push to Santiago begins.
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  • Sarria to Portomarin 22km 6hr

    October 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
  • Portomarin to Ligonde 17km 4hrs

    October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The day started off in the fog which was actually a pleasant change from the clear blue skies we have been enjoying almost daily. Eventually the sun broke through and we quickly warmed up. It was a pleasant walk with a few ups and downs. We met a nice father daughter team, Joe and Kate from the USA. We walked and talked quite a bit with them and eventually had lunch together in Ligonde where we stopped for the night. They had a few more Km to go.Read more

  • Ligonde to O Coto (Cat-o?) 18kms 5.5 hrs

    October 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    A beautiful day through small villages. Because we didn’t stay in the larger village of Palais de Rei we were able to separate ourselves from the crowds of the last 2 days. It was a return to the serenity of the Camino that we had grown accustomed to. We walked through forests of chestnut and eucalyptus trees. We saw horses grazing freely in unfenced fields. And of course the many chickens, cats and dogs roaming the streets and living in harmony. So beautiful. We walked with Elaine, who we had dinner with last night, for the first part of our hike.
    We arrived at our beautiful little hotel in the early afternoon. After showering, doing laundry and resting, we headed to the restaurant attached to our hotel. There we met Annabelle, an 80 year old (who looks about 50) who is walking with her 70 year old cousins from the Philippines. They are walking from Sarria and taking 14 days. They are an interesting little group.
    After dinner we ran into Birgitte and Emily from Denmark, our accidental roommates in Sarria. It was so nice to see them again. We had a good little chat and are hoping to meet up again before we get to Santiago.
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  • O Coto to Castaneda 15kms 5.5 hrs

    October 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
  • O Coto to A Salceda 17.5km 4.5 hrs

    October 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    A beautiful walk through Eucalyptus forests. The smell was incredible. We met up with a lovely couple from Germany and we walked a good part of the day with them. We both find that the walk goes by so quickly when you have new people to talk to. We are staying at a nice little albergue where we met up with ladies from England, Brazil and Holland. We all ventured across the street for dinner where we were joined by others from Uruguay and Germany. The one guy from Germany started in Germany in July and has walked over 3000km. Makes us feel like we are just doing a stroll around the block.
    It’s exciting because Santiago is now in everyone’s reach. Some are planning on getting there tomorrow and others like us will get there Saturday. Some of our friends have arrived already and sending us pictures. So nice to see.
    Tomorrow looks like it will be a very rainy day so not looking forward to that. We have been very lucky with the weather so far.
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