• Maree Crawford
sep. – okt. 2023

Romania and Istanbul

Back to Romania for 2 weeks, then 5 days in Istanbul Läs mer
  • Resans start
    29 september 2023

    Off again

    29 september 2023, Australien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Flinders to Melbourne.
    We have 7 hours to fill in so we book a room at Essendon Fields Hyatt, room was on special 😉.

    Steve went for a massage to start his holiday and I watched a Netflix movie. 🎥

    Then tea at restaurant downstairs before last shower for 36 hours.

    Shuttle bus to International airport, check straight in as we are business class!! Then an hour and half in Marhaba Lounge before boarding Business Class.
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  • From Malaysia to Turkey

    30 september 2023, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Slept fairly well, certainly more comfortably than in economy.

    7 1/2 flight getting into Kuala Lumpur airport at 5.30am local time.
    Found a coffee and cuppa tea then waited to board at 8.50am.
    The airport is smaller than we thought.

    Flew 10 1/2 hours to Istanbul, again in business class and soo good to be able to sleep. Turkish Airlines much better than Malaysian. The chef actually took your meal order and your seat/pod more modern, maybe a bit bigger. Watched a couple of movies.

    Into Istanbul for 4 1/2 hours, we waited in the business lounge and had good Turkish snacks. They love their handmade lemonade with mint...and so do we.

    Then back on plane for 1 1/2 hours. I was knackered by then and apparently slept the whole way not woken for a meal even. When they announced we were descending I thought we were staying going up, I was very confused for a tick.

    Got through customs easily, baggage arrived with us thank goodness.
    I had already booked a ride into Bucharest so met Stefan and he drove us to our hotel. He was a lovely bloke.
    Into the Moxy Bucharest Old Town hotel at around 10pm.
    A full on rave was just starting and we both wondered what we'd stumbled into. For some reason, the room I booked wasn't available so they put us in another one, which was thankfully away from the super- doofing music.

    Shower and fell into bed.
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  • Exploring Old Town

    1 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We slept 12 hours! Woke at 10am, both of us, so we went out and found brunch.

    We walked around all the streets exploring.
    We found a park, very much in need of a good water, and sat under a tree for some shade. There's a major bushfire happening at home so Steve was chatting to local fire brigade and Dan about what to save or not should the fire come down over our hill.

    It's 30 degreesC here today. The driver last night said it is an unusually long summer, it should be over by now and cooling down.

    Had a drink at a traditional food tavern but didn't need food. I might come back for tea sometime.

    Got back to Moxy and Steve decided he was bored so found himself a massage. Best he's ever had he said.
    While he was doing that I went downstairs for a cuppa and asked reception if there was a difference in price in the different room they put us in. She said we had to move into the queen room I originally booked. Still not sure what the issue was. Don't know what would've happened if I hadn't asked. It was 4.30 pm at this stage. So I packed us both up, moved rooms before Steve got back.

    Queen room is bigger anyway, but would've been right above the noise last night so turned out well, actually.

    Had a rest then went out and found tea. Neither of us felt like a heavy traditional meal so went Vietnamese instead!
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  • Moxy Bucharest Old Town hotel

    2 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    This is our funky hotel complete with funky staff.
    The reception is actually a full-on bar. Around the bar is your breakfast doings, a minimart with snacks and drinks. You can buy a coffee or tea there. I bought some sandwiches for lunch today as I didn't want a heavy lunch.
    Very central in Old Town and pretty good. All I need. Oh, except a kettle 😞 which I knew so I brought my own 😀
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  • We part ways

    2 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today we part and do our own thing.
    Steve got up at 4.30 to catch a 7.40 am plane to Timosaura in Romania to go on a 10 day hunt up north. It's the same place he hunted when we were here before Covid but going longer for different animals.

    I'd booked him a taxi yesterday, we had it paid for and we got all the details of the driver and the car but..... he got "kidnapped" as he called it by a scamming taxi driver. He said this bloke met him and the boot of the car was up already. It wasn't until they were nearly at the airport and the driver started to haggle about and insist on payment that Steve realised he was in the wrong car! The driver wouldn't take card and insisted on American dollars. Steve only had a $50 Australian note on him so that's what the driver got!!
    Apparently the domestic check-in etc was a "shitshow" but he got to Timosaura ok.

    So I did a 🚲 tour of Bucharest today. I'd booked a half day bicycle tour of the city through AirBnB Experience. They do experiences as well as accommodation. It worked well.

    So I met the guide according to directions. A couple from Liverpool and another couple from Israel joined us. Took 4 hours but we stopped a lot and talked a lot about Bucharest and Romanian history. We rode on bike paths and bike roads and footpaths and parks so it was pretty easy and safe. It was a great way to see more than you would on a walking tour.

    Then home for a sandwich and a rest.
    Tea around the corner so I didn't have far to walk home in the dark. There are lots of places to eat close by.
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  • Nicolae Ceausescu, Romania (1918-1989)

    2 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    The last Communist leader of Romania met his end on Christmas Day, 1989. The national mood was rebellious that December, and Ceausescu tried to soothe the populace with a public (yet carefully controlled) speech on Dec. 21. The crowd booed him. Ceausescu's uncomprehending look at being heckled helped bolster the rebellion against him.

    The next day, Ceausescu and his wife, Elena, escaped Bucharest by helicopter minutes ahead of an angry mob. The respite was temporary; the couple was taken into custody by the army, given a show trial (one and a half hours only according to my 🚲 guide), and sentenced to death for genocide and corruption. Though there was nominally a 10-day period to contest the ruling, the execution commenced immediately: The Ceausescus hands were tied and they were forced against a wall, where a firing squad riddled them with bullets.

    Apparently the wife was more hated as she was even more cruel than Nicolae and the guide told us more horrible stuff was done to her body than his.
    Elena Ceaușescu was celebrated by state propaganda under her husband’s regime as a world-famous chemistry researcher, despite having no credible qualifications. The researchers say some of her work is still being cited and accessed, even though she was barely literate in science and unable to recognise basic formulas taught to first-year chemistry students.
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  • Black Sea tour with Alina and Gabriel

    3 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today I have a tour with a local guide Alina and driver, Gabriel. Alina speaks very good English, Gabriel can only say "thankyou very much". We drive a modern comfortable Skoda.

    We leave at 8am and drive through agricultural land for 2 1/2 hours to the city of Constanta and the Black Sea at Mamaia Beach.
    It looks like most of the harvest has been done and there's heaps of tractors out ploughing today.

    I have a wade in the Black Sea and collect a few shells.
    We then go to the Old City where I have spare time on my own to explore. I have about 2 hours so have a look about.
    I have lunch at a burger place and they have an Australian Burger on the menu! The young waiter tries to talk to me about coming to Australia to work but we have to talk via Google Translator, his English is very poor and my Romanian is zilch. Nice chat.

    Both museums are shut on Tuesdays.
    I climb the minaret at the mosque and get a great view but have jelly legs for a while so I'm glad I did that last!

    We all get back in the car and drive 2 1/2 hours back. We drove at an average of 135 km/hr, sometimes getting up to 170! So, if we drove at our usual speed it would've taken longer.... obviously.

    Along the way Alina told me a lot of the history which I'll talk about later.

    Basically the Greeks discovered the Black Sea first and named the sea Black as it wasn't as clear as their seas. Then the Romans came, the Ottomans, the Monarchy, the Communists.

    It was a good day and a good local guide company. They don't usually do tours on a Tuesday but because it's the shoulder season she decided she'd do it for me.
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  • Big hike exploring museums and galleries

    4 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Visiting museums and art galleries today.
    I want to see the outdoor Village Museum which is 6 km away so I decide to walk it, I have all day.
    On the way up I pop into an art and object gallery, it was an old palace I think. Every room is guarded or guided by a person, volunteer probably. They take their Jon very seriously, they firmly pointed the way through the many rooms which is great, you don't get lost but ai felt I had to complete the circuit before they would let me out!! These generation of people grew up under communism and I felt it!

    I also wanted to go to the Peasant Museum, as they call it. It's one man's attempt back in the 30's to preserve the old things. I think it's now state controlled. It is being renovated. The rooms are all done but the exhibits haven't been put back up due to lack of staff and funds...just like everywhere else in the museum sector. So there wasn't as much to see as reviews stated but still enough.
    Google maps takes me through parks that have statues and monuments.
    I have a nice lunch on the way.
    Just before the village museum is the Arch of Triumph.
    Walk around the villages and old houses, mills, wine crushers, etc.
    Then straight back home with a slight detour when I got lost.

    Strava app told me I did 25 K and my feet feel like it!
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  • Notes I've taken

    4 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Volakia used to be Romania, is now the area around Bucharest.
    As you travel south to Constanta the region becomes Dobrogea.

    Dobrogea region. 2 arms of Danube with an island area or peninsula in between. Wineries, hilly. Wind turbines, nuclear plant 2 of 5 plants working. Built by communists, not all finished. No other nuclear plants in Romania.

    Solar, coal, hydro. Talking about exporting energy to Turkey. They don't need as much energy as before because lots of the communist factories have closed down.

    A lot of infrastructure building now.

    In Bucharest still a lot of Turkish influence in architecture etc. Public transport....bus, tram, trolley car, subway trains. Regional trains

    Agriculture - grow wheat, corn, sunflower.

    The following is translated from QRCodes on signs on palace walls at Constanta.

    KING CAROL I OF ROMANIA
    1866-1914
    Carol I, Prince of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, of german origin, ruler of Romania between 1866-1881, was crowned king in 1881.
    He was the longest-reigning monarch in the history of Romania, for 48 years. He was one of the sustainers of the return of Dobrogea to the motherland, along with Mihail Kogalniceanu, desideratum which has been achieved in 1878.
    After the War of Independence (1877-1878), he has contributed, together with the Government, to create a modern state, raising it to the level of Western Europe.

    QUEEN ELISABETH OF ROMANIA
    1869-1914
    Elizabeth - born Pauline Ottilie Luise Elisabeth zu Wied, has, also, german origin. Considered patron of the arts, founder of some charitable institutions, herself being a poet, essayist and writer, she was widely known by her literary name of Carmen Sylva.
    Elizabeth wrote over one thousand poems, ninety short stories collected in four anthology volumes, thirty dramatic works and four novels. Art and literature lover and creative, she was a good connoisseur and interpreter of music - vocal, piano and organ.
    At her request, a royal pavilion will be built in 1909, close to the end of north pier, nicknamed by the people of Constanta "Queen's Nest".

    ROYAL FAMILY
    1869 is the year when Prince Carol married Elizabeth, who became the first Queen of Romania in 1881, after our country was recognized as a kingdom by both the Sublime Porte and the Central Powers.
    Both Carol I and Elizabeth had one ideal: the modernization of Romania. "All for the country, nothing for me" was the motto of King Carol I, which has been endorsed by the entire Royal Family.
    Since he had no descendants, Carol I designates as successor to the throne his nephew, Ferdinand, married to Maria, whose son, Carol, would later become King of Romania.
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  • Up to Cluj-napoca, Transylvania

    5 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Early morning flight with local airline Tarom to Cluj-napoca, the capital of Transylvania.
    Basically the same flight as Steve the other morning but to a different city.
    My experience was much different than Steve's. I got in with the correct car driver, and everything was calm and quiet at the airport. Maybe it was Monday Mayhem for Steve.

    I got into Hotel Transylvania (of course) very early, before 9 am even, so dropped my bags and explored Old Town and beyond, again making my feet hurt. Not good walking shoes today, the toe is even scuffed out of it!

    I can tell I'm back in Transylvania as the buildings are colourful and ornate. They have a different style.

    Walked past the usual stuff, churches. Big university. There's lots of renovating and street works here too. No such thing as OH&S though. The cafe tables, with patrons, are still right in the middle of construction works. A big backhoe working a metre away from a coffee drinker.

    Found a market with stalls- some are the usual you see anywhere but most were handmade by locals

    Had a lovely traditional soup for lunch then went back and checked in.
    My roomS are huge! It's an apartment really. Booking.com asked me if I wanted to upgrade my room for a small fee, I thought why not? Wowsers!

    You walk into a sitting room complete with full dining table and chairs, heaps of cushy armchairs, big bathroom with deep bath (yippee), then a huge bedroom, again with big armchairs, furniture and king bed. Plus a bath robe monogrammed with Hotel Transylvania.
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  • Turda Salt Mine

    6 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Today I have organised a guided day tour out of Cluj. I meet Tudor at a statue and we head off in a very comfortable BMW minivan. It's just me today. We chat a bit. He is married with a 3 1/2 month baby boy, Alexandru, 10 lb at birth and 66 cm long!!! Big boy.
    After chatting we listen to some easy-listening reggae, "Stick Figure", sounds very much like our Ben Harper's music. Very nice.

    Salina Turda is one of the oldest salt mines in Europe, with about 2000 years of extraction activity that began in the pre-Roman era.
    The Turda salt deposits date back to ancient times and were dug up to thirty meters deep, leaving tunnels that were used as anti-aircraft shelter during war.
    The salt was extracted manually using pickaxes, hammers, chisels, and steel wedges, by free people who were paid in florins, ale, and loaves of bread. The mine was closed in 1932, but it was used again during World War II as a bomb shelter. After the war, the mine served several purposes, one of which was a warehouse for storing cheese.
    It was later converted into a tourist attraction and then into a mining museum. The mine has recently been transformed into an incredible and very popular amusement park.
    It contains attractions like an amphitheater, an underground lake that may be explored with paddles and rowboats, a Ferris wheel, spa treatment rooms with natural aerosols, bowling alley, mini-golf, sports field, table tennis, pool tables.
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  • Hiking Turda Gorge

    6 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The canyon, formed through the erosion of the Jurassic limestone of the mountain, is 2 900 m long and the walls have heights reaching 300 m. The total surface of the canyon is 324 ha.
    Cheile Turzii National Park contain one of the richest and most scenic landscapes in Romania. More than 1000 plant and animal species (some of them rare or endangered, like the wild garlic or some species of eagle) live here

    The east side of the gorge is one of the top rock climbing spots in Romania.

    Today we did the 9km walk, through the base of the east side and then up and over the west side. Steep in places.
    In the forest were many types of mushroom and the pretty purple crocus' were en masse.
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  • Flora and fauna of Turda Gorge

    6 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Lots of mushrooms. Villagers go foraging for them and truffles.

    Beautiful forest floor filled with purple crocus.

    Maple trees are dropping their leaves

    Flock of sheep and goats with their shepherd and dogs

    Lots of plants similar to ours- dandelions, strawberry clover
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  • Rimetea for lunch

    6 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Late lunch at a small UNESCO village, Rimetea. All the houses have to be true to tradition, white with green windows. There is only one communist building in this village. The whole village was due for demolition by the communists but they just avoided that as communication fell.

    The people here identify as Seklers.
    The Székelys, also referred to as Szeklers, are a Hungarian subgroup living mostly in the Székely Land in Romania. To visit Székelyföld today is to encounter one of the most spectacular corners of Transylvania. Deep in the center of today’s Romania, it boasts beautiful mountains and pine forests, lakes and hills, and a delightfully distinct culture of Hungarian speakers. Beware not only of the notorious bears in the nearby forests, the Szeklers remain fiercely proud of their history and culture!

    Tudor, my guide, takes me to a traditional food restaurant for lunch at 3pm! I have a sausage and potato thing with elderberry cordial. Was lovely as I was hungry!
    We pop into the small local museum - ethnographic meaning showing the ethnic way of living. Iron mining was the industry but now tourism is starting.

    Then to a monastery that houses nuns. The amazing frescoes were painted by the nuns themselves. Stunning.

    Home 5.30. Started falling asleep around 7-ish, didn't need tea so slept
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  • Seeing more of Cluj-napoca

    7 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Today I was supposed to go on another guided day trip to Sighisoara and a couple of other Transylvanian gems of towns but lunch time yesterday they cancelled. Something about a political event closing "experiences" or something. Very disappointing as I really wanted to see those pretty towns.

    No time to organise anything else so I did my own thing again. Still much to see in Cluj.
    Cluj is a university city. Young and vibrant.

    Seeing as I didn't have to be anywhere in particular I had a lie in and started walking around 10.30.

    Last explore I turned left to see Old Town, this time I turned right and crossed the river/stream really.

    I wandered the streets looking at how people really live in the suburbs then headed to the outdoor ethnographic museum Tudor had told me about. I read in the reviews it was pretty good as it's set up like a real village. It was. The one at Bucharest was all jammed in tight along footpaths.

    Then I walked into town to see the indoor version, stopping for lunch first.
    I had a lovely tuna salad- real properly cooked salmon and lemonade with lavender and ginger. Yum. They really love and know how to do their lemonade. Then the waitress talked me into dessert. I wanted a coffee anyway so ordered the Romanian donuts with cream and berries. Their donut is a donut ball. That was yummy too. I won't need tea tonight either, and good thing I'm doing all these walks!!

    The indoor ethnographic museum displays indoor and cultural artefacts but what was funny was it was packed with kids and young families because a Lego exhibition culminating in a Lego competition tomorrow is happening. I had to remember what I was supposed to be looking at! The kids were having a great time.
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  • Streetscape and history of Cluj

    7 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Cluj-Napoca, city, capital of Cluj județ (county), northwestern Romania. The historic capital of Transylvania, it is approximately 200 mi (320 km) northwest of Bucharest in the Someșul Mic River valley. The city stands on the site of an ancient Dacian settlement, Napoca, which the Romans made a municipium.

    In the Middle Ages the name of the city was Culus, as attested in documents of 1173, but by the beginning of the 15th century it was known as Cluj (probably from Castrum Clus, a small fortification dating from 1213). The city has also been known by its German name, Klausenburg, and its Hungarian name, Kolozsvár. It became a thriving commercial and cultural centre, and in 1405 it was declared a free town. After the constitution of the autonomous principality of Transylvania in the 16th century, Cluj became its capital. In 1920 the city, with the rest of Transylvania, was incorporated into Romania. Napoca was added to the city’s name in 1974 by Nicolae Ceaușescu.
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  • Lego at the Ethno

    7 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The Lego in amongst the old stuff was bizarre but very clever, bringing the youngsters in.

    Condition of entry to the competition tomorrow is that you have had to have come to the exhibition prior. Very clever.

    There were grown-up Legoists fine tuning their exhibits. Not only static stuff but moving trains and Ferris wheels.
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  • A short history of Romania

    7 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Europe’s oldest remains of modern human were discovered in the “Cave With Bones” in present day Romania and is estimated to be 42,000 years old. However the first written history of the country was about the Getae tribes and dates back in 440 BCE. The Dacians, believed to be part of the Getae, made its greatest expansion during the reign of King Burebista in 82 BC. When the Romans left Dacia, the region was attacked by the Goths, then by the Huns in the 4th century. During the 11th century, Transylvania became an autonomous part of the Kingdom of Hungary.

    When the 1848 Revolution fall apart, the Romanians’ goal to become a single state was supported by the Great Powers. During the Russo-Turkish War Romania defended with the Russian, and the 1878 Treaty of Berlin, the Great Powers declared the country as an independent nation. The country joined the Axis during World War II. It supplied the Nazi Germany with oil resulting to numerous attacks from the Allies. Eventually Romania changed sides and united with the Allies but the Paris Peace Conference of 1947 did not recognize its role in the defeat of the Nazi Germany.

    The period between late 1940s and late 1980 is described as the Communist Romania. The leadership of Nicolae Ceauşescu initiated independent policies especially in terms of its foreign relationship. Thousands of people were killed, imprisoned, and tortured during his reign. The bloody Romanian Revolution of 1989 witnessed the ending of Nicolae Ceauşescu’s autarchic government. In 2004, Traian Băsescu was elected president, through an electoral coalition known as the Justice and Truth Alliance. Romania joined NATO in 2004, and became of member of the European Union in 2007.

    https://www.studycountry.com/guide/RO-history.htm

    The guides also talk about the Monarchy era. In 1881 Romania became a kingdom with Carol I, its king. The first King was a poor relation of the German King banished for something but established modern Romania. The Monarchy finished when Communism took over.
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  • Up to the traditional Maramures

    8 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    2 day guided tour, overnight in Breb. We are next to the Ukraine border but nowhere near the war.

    My guide, Florin, is from this area now living in Cluj. Again it's just me and my guide.

    We stop for coffee in Baia Mare, this is Florin's hometown. In the coffee shop we bump into one of his friends who used to live in the same apartment block. Baia Mare is in a valley and when the communist gold mine was operating the smoke would settle and the area would be contaminated with heavy metals that are a by- product of gold mining. Consequently, people in this valley don't live much past their 60's. Florin's dad dies at 54 and he doesn't anticipate to live longer than his 60's, even though he is no longer living there. He feels the damage is already done.

    Next stop is a Wooden Church with the tallest spire in Romania (?Europe). It starts to drizzle and get colder here. True to Maramures it has a wooden welcome gate. The church is beautiful. The wood is carved and every symbol means something. The paintings inside are spectacular and of course depict Christian stories. This church has pews to sit on because it's Greek Catholic . Orthodox churches require you to stand.

    The rain increases and the foggy roads shut out the view of the monutains we are driving through. We stop for lunch at a traditional restaurant on the side of the road. This area is a ski Mecca in Winter.

    As it's raining we opt to do an indoor activity so we go to the Communist Victim museum. See separate page for this visit. And the sun comes out but is still cold.

    We then head to the village of Breb, where we check me into Veronica's Guesthouse. It is modern and warm, and I am the only guest there. I was expecting I might be in a cold wooden house so packed layers but not needed. Veronica is a young lady, happy and bubbly. She insists I have a fruit liqueur shot, or 2. They have 2 sorts of traditional spirit. The "women's" one is less proof and fruit flavoured, very nice. The "men's " one is the clear super-proof aviation fuel, typical of many countries. Florin explained the he/she is traditional but doesn't need apply these days.
    We also are served a traditional round donut hit from the pan , dusted with icing sugar her mother made. Delicious.

    Florin checks into his cheaper accommodation ("otherwise how we would make money?") then an hour later we drive through the village to the next village to a bed and breakfast place for a traditional dinner. Sour soup, chicken offal, mashed spud with dill, pork. Then a lovely blueberry muffin for dessert. It's here I try the rocket-fuel shot 😂.
    The host is Maria and she serves way too much. There is a saying in the Maramures that you will never leave Maramures hungry. So true!!
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  • Memorial of the Victims of Communism

    8 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    This was a very emotional visit, especially so for Florin as his early years were in Communist rule and certainly his parents were affected by it. They did not end up here but were forced to work and live the "New World" way.
    Florin remembers when they had to live by ration coupons and the only foreign company allowed was Pepsi-Cola. Who knows why?

    Each cell is dedicated to a theme.
    Summer schools are held to educate the younger generation.

    It is one of the main memorial sites in Europe alongside Auschwitz.

    Read the information pamphlet in 2 of the photos for more information.

    For me it's hard to comprehend that a young man experienced this, it only collapsed 30 years ago!! It is still very much in the forefront of everyone's psyche. They are still trying to recover from the trauma of it.
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  • Breb Village walk

    9 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    With a frosty start we have a 2 hour walk around the small village. We walk along the pebbly roads, up people's garden paths, through the fields. We have 2 dogs follow us for a while, chat to a couple of cats and throw some grapes🍇 to some chooks.

    This village is typical of the Maramures area with their wooden houses and carved wooden gates, farm plots and vege gardens. There is the odd European house but since Prince Charles, now King, bought an old wooden house, people decided that their traditions might actually be worth keeping.
    There is an Australian couple living here, there used to be two couples named Long and Short!
    We visit 2 locals in their houses, see following pages for Vasile and Maria.
    We bump into another Vasile who was the village stonemason until fairly recently. He was picking his purple grapes for wine. He gave us some bunches to eat, very tasty. There was also a lady with a basket collecting fallen walnuts. She also brought Vasile something to eat I think.

    Tourism has come to Breb, thanks to local guides and some houses had stalls selling goods. There was a saucepan man following us for a bit.
    A young girl wanted to sell me a bracelet. Turns out Veronica's mother made me one and had it on the breakfast table for me.

    This village walk talking to the locals was a major highlight.
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  • Vasile, the village chronicler

    9 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    As we do our village walk Florin tells me about an elderly man who is the village chronicler, he collects all sorts of information, documents and takes photos. Next thing I know we're outside a house and Florin says "Let's go see if he's home".

    So we knock on his door, it's still a bit early and catch him with his teeth out😂.
    Once we let him put his teeth in all is good.

    His small house is cluttered and looks a mess but it it's clean and he knows where everything is.
    His walls are lined with photos he's taken.

    He is having trouble with his phone, apparently he needs to put in a new SIM card but has no idea how to do it. He asks Florin to do it. They need a pin thing that inserts in the hole to pop the simcard holder out. As chance would have it, I carry one in my phone case, so hey presto, his phone gets fixed!

    He loves receiving guests and taking photos of them. He asks me, via Florin, if he could take my photo and put on his Facebook page that a beautiful Australian came to visit 😂. Of course, I said yes. Within minutes, the post was up. Not bad for 74!

    He also writes poetry and obviously loves to promote the Maramures way if his Facebook page is anything to go by.
    He says he thought he saw me in the village the other day but it must have been someone who looks like me 😉

    We say goodbye with one of his lovely fresh apples off his tree.
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  • A visit to Maria the weaver

    9 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We visited Maria on our village ramble.
    She has been weaving since around age 13 and is now in her 70's.
    She was very pleased to show me how she weaves. She also insisted she show me her house - guest room, passage and main room. It was very colourful and full of traditional Romanian decoration and articles.

    She wanted to dress me in traditional Maramures dress so I let her, she had such joy doing it. I wore a blouse, skirt and head scarf. Apparently it's a wedding outfit. She tut-tutted I was so tall I had to bend in half so she could put my scarf on.
    She couldn't speak English, I couldn't speak Romanian so of course Florin interpreted.
    Maria also said she thought she saw me in the village the other day 😮

    We then went across the yard to a small hut that I guess is her bedroom and bathroom. Her stove heats this small room well. She takes us there to show me how she spins her wool on a spindle. It was similar to how the Moroccan women did it. Her thread is very strong. When I tried it broke and she said I was not ready to marry!!

    She was a delightful lady and I feel privileged she wanted to share her way of life with me.
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  • The Merry Cemetery

    9 oktober 2023, Rumänien ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Merry Cemetery is a cemetery in the village of Săpânța, Maramureș County, Romania. It is famous for its brightly coloured tombstones with naïve paintings describing, in a poetic and humourous manner, the people who are buried there in addition to scenes from their lives. The Merry Cemetery became an open-air museum and a national tourist attraction. It has been listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Romania.

    The cemetery's origins are linked with the name of Stan Ioan Pătraș, a local artist who sculpted the first tombstone crosses. In 1935, Pătraș carved the first epitaph after being at a funeral and hearing what people were saying about the deceased. He was amused and wrote a poem as the epitaph. As of the 1960s, more than 800 such oak wood crosses have been added and still are being added.

    This seems to be the most famous and loved....
    Under this heavy cross
    Lies my poor mother-in-law
    Three more days should she have lived
    I would lie, and she would read (this cross).
    You, who here are passing by
    Not to wake her up please try
    Cause' if she comes back home
    She'll scold me more.
    But I will surely behave
    So she'll not return from grave.
    Stay here, my dear mother-in-law!
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