• Day 12. Innerleithen to Galashiels

    23. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Weather forecast not good but we left at 8 am after breakfast. Light rain.
    We left the road after 35 mins and started the long climb up to Minch Moor on the old droving trail. Today, it seems. Is the day for meeting people. Two boys walking the dogs and then two runners. The runners told us they were organising, next year, a run over the SUW. There welcome to that.
    The mist thickened as we continued our climb, passing the sculpture in the heather, Resolution.
    Fortunately the track was clearly defined as the mist continued to thicken.
    Another walker loomed out of the mist coming towards us. A Dutchman who had walked from Lands End and hoped to reach Edinburgh.
    I took a photo of Shirl in the mist. She was about 50 metres away.
    Reaching the Three Brethren was a relief because we now were going down. Or so we thought. With about two hours to go the rain really intensified just as we started going up again. Quite a nasty little climb.
    Relieved we reached our destination after 7-3/4 hours. Drenched.
    Les mer

  • Day 11. St Mary's Loch to Innerleithen.

    21. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Just after we started we made a small diversion to the ruined Dryhope tower. Built by the local Laird in the 15 hundreds to protect him and his family from marauders.
    From there it was a good ,grassy, track over the moors. No "Boggy Bog" according to Shirl. This is better country with lots of sheep. Apart from a light shower it was an overcast bday, good for walking.
    Innerleithen is a good 3 kms off the track. Unfortunately on Tarmac.
    Les mer

  • Day 10. Moffat to St Mary,s Loch.

    21. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Swiss group left just after 8 while we waited for the taxi to take us and our bags to The Gordon Arms.
    A lovely drive and we arrived at 12.
    After lunch a short walk and then we rested.
    A good evening meal and the Swiss told us of there travels. Apparently a lot of road walking.Les mer

  • Day 9. Rest Day Moffat.

    21. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Sorry about the mix up in the days. Must be old age. A quiet restful day resting and wandering around town.
    The afternoon saw 4 Swiss walkers arrive to walk from Moffat to Cockburnpath. Younger and fitter.
    We were told to buy "Jungle Juice" to ward off the midges and horse flies. Which we did. ( Jungle Formula with Deet)
    I forgot to tell you about the seagulls , in Stranraer, that built there nest on a sailors car. He was away for two months. He was not allowed to remove the nest or his car. So it sits in the car park until the authorities allow him to move it.
    Dinner was at the Star Hotel. The narrowest pub in the world.(In the Guinness book of records)
    I have enclosed a poem about Moffat weather.
    Les mer

  • Day7. Daer reservoir to Moffat

    19. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    In preparation for a long day we breakfasted at 7 am and as suggested by Rab & Rachel we were driven to Daer Reservoir. "Walking from Overfingland to Daer Reservoir is no worth the effort"
    We commenced walking at 8-15 and in two hours we had walked the roller coaster over Sweetshaw Brae(448m), Hod's Hill (567m) and Beld Knowe (507m). There are a
    an incredible amount of wind turbines in this area.(magnify the photo). Then followed the long descent where we shed all the height down a forest fire trail. The walking was reasonably good and with my trusty app we had no problems following the path.
    Lunch was taken in Brattleburn Bothy. Heaven! Chairs to sit on. Two Aussies from Tasmania had made the last log entry 3 days ago(see photo). They had lots of saws here.
    A climb over Craig Hill (360m) followed before the terrain levelled off.
    We met two females walkers and their dog out for a ramble who told us the going was easy to Moffat.
    In case you think we are superhuman the total ascent for all the climbs was about 750 ms
    We hit the so/called Crooked Road and then followed 5kms on Tarmac. Thankfully the girls met us about 1 1/2!kms from town and gave us a lift. We had nearly drunk all our water and were a little dehydrated on this hot.long walk.
    Rest day tomorrow.
    Les mer

  • Day 7. Sanquhar to Overfingland.

    17. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Last night I thought I had a major problem. I had sent emails confirming our reservations on the West Highland Way. All confirmed except one which told me the reservation was cancelled. A phone call and a couple of emails solved the problem. The lass had misread my email. What a relief.
    Today we caught a bus up to Wanlockhead, the highest village in the UK. It was the centre of lead mining in this area. Everything was closed on Mondays.
    The walk to the pick-up point at Overfingland crossed the highest point in the walk at 725 m. Mountains between 2000-3000 are Donald's. Above 3000m they are referred to as Munros. What followed was a series of steep ascents/descents as we made our way across the moorland. Good track for 2/3rds then some bog. Quite manageable.
    Weather was fine with a brisk, cool breeze. Good for walking.
    Ran, the owner of Hopetoun Arms Hotel in Leadhills, picked us up and drove us back to the hotel. The highest in Scotland.
    Didn't take many photos today as it was of moorlands and the camera does not do justice to this type of scenery.
    The ball on the top of the hill is a radar station.
    Les mer

  • Day 6. Sanquhar

    16. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Well it Camelot today. Good weather for walking but we joined our bags on the way here. With a few niggly injuries we decided to take it easy today. This is a tough walk with the distance between accommodation too much for us.
    At breakfast we watched the sparrows, starlings, finches and siskins( European migratory bird) squabbling over the feed.
    Our taxi driver, Andrea, didn't stop talking. Good company. She diverted off the route for us to see Drumlanrig castle.
    Our accommodation is at Newark Farm. A working farm. Francis, the owner, talks more than Andrea.
    We toured the town first seeing the Arts centre. Sanquhar is famous for its knitting. Very expensive with a unique design.
    Lunch followed and after a visit to the fine Museum we return to rest.
    Robbie Burns visited this town many times.
    Sanquhar paid a prominent part when the Covenants were hunted and killed.
    Looking forward to tomorrow as we cross the highest point of the SUW.
    I forgot to mention that the Post Office is the oldest in Scotland. Built in 1712, two years after Newark Farm House was built.
    Les mer

  • Day 5. SJT of Dalry to Stroanpatrick

    16. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We have been deceived. We are not in Camelot but Scotland. Light rain and thick mist for our walk today.
    Maxine was the other guest at breakfast. Aged 73, from Geelong, near Melbourne, she has been coming here for the past 21 years,cycling. She brings her own bike over and cycles around meeting friends she has encountered over the years. An inspirational woman.
    The SUW goes past the back garden of our BNB so we hopped over the back fence to commence the walk, 4hours on the moors with only a short time on Tarmac or track.
    The sheep scattered as we approached. Probably don't get much human contact.
    This is a very wet part of the world and our boots were soon soaked. Should have worn the gaiters.
    Rating 5 tussocks is when you need a submarine and in places we got close to that. I lead so if I become submerged Shirl has time to get the submarine out of her pack.
    The lichen on the telegraph poles indicates how wet it is here. A small yellow orchid thrives in these conditions. When we saw large clumps of them we avoided there territory. I called them The Yellow Submarine orchids.
    We were thankful for Pocket Earth, an app on my phone, as the mist was so thick at times we were unable to see the marker poles.
    They say the views are terrific, pity we didn't see too many.
    Despite the conditions we enjoyed the experience.
    Les mer

  • Day 4 Bargrennan to Craigenbay

    15. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Did you know Scotland is like Camelot? Only rains at night. After the rain last night we woke to a overcast day and on went the Gortex. We left at 0630 as another long day was ahead of us.
    The first hour saw us following the River Cree. Beautiful and peaceful. I've been telling Shirl a Monarch of the Glen will suddenly appear and we will have a perfect photo. Not today.
    We were surprised how good the track was. Only occassional boggy patches. For a while it was a grassy path.
    On arrival at the Waters of Trool we actually saw a bench. You know the one for sitting on. The first in 4 days. More followed as we walked on a good track. This is a ramblers circuit and thankfully they have improved conditions.
    More surprises followed. We actually met 2 walkers by Loch Trool. A beautiful. Picture perfect loch on one side and logging devastation on the other.
    Another surprise followed with a heavy laden walker sitting on another bench. It was too much.
    More Lochs followed with good tracks and we reached our pick-up point after 9 hours.
    Ronnie our BNB host was full of information. The Knights Templar stayed in Daley and that's how it got its name.
    There is a photo of an inscribed stone we don't know it is but will find out.
    Dinner was at the Clachan inn. Yes as it was evening it started raining and the no wonder we have not seen any Monarchs. They adorned the dining room. Empty at first but filled up later.
    Les mer

  • Day 3. New Luce to Bargrennan

    13. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today was difficult. 32kms that took us through 50%bog and 50% track and Tarmac. We left New Luce at 6-15 and finished at 16-15. A difficult 10 hours.
    The first hour was on Tarmac and then we had two hours through bog. We negotiated this OK but it saps the energy squelching through it.
    There are an enormous amount of wind turbines and the government want electricity to be supplied 100% by alternative energy by 2020. Judging by the amount of turbines they are well on there way.
    We visited our first Bothy. The beehive. Good emergency accommodation. The Laggangard standing stones were next. Over 4000 years old.
    We stopped for an apple on the bridge over the Purgatory Burn in the middle of the bog.
    There was lots of climbing under, over and around fallen trees. We are getting too old for this type of walking.
    Towards the end of the day walking through bog I tripped and fortunately landed head first on a tussock. Lucky me.
    After we arrived at our hotel and during dinner down came the rain. Not looking good for tomorrow.
    Both of us are carrying niggly injuries due to the hard going. A good nights rest is required.
    Les mer

  • Day 2. Castle Kennedy to New Luce

    12. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Another lovely day for walking. Dropped at St Castle Kennedy we walked about 1km to the gardens where spent an hour. Really great gardens covering 76 acres but we only saw a fraction. After a Scottish cream tea we commenced walking on Tarmac.only a short distance before we entered a field that the cows had really chewed up. Then we crossed the bog on a dyke which reduced the amount of wet periods. Not too bad. We entered a forest and some pleasant walking. crossing a field two friendly lambs welcomed us and were very inquisitive.
    The final 2 kms into New Luce were on Tarmac.
    Les mer

  • Day 1 Portpatrick to Castle Kennedy

    11. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The first stage of the walk was along the cliffs to the Killantringan lighthouse, which involved descents to Two coves where we picked up a stone to throw in the sea. In Dunbar. Nothing too dramatic in contrast to the SWCP.
    From there we turned inland for about an hour on Tarmac. Not too happy.
    Today's walk was a 2 bog day which we encounter for about 1/2 hour. It must be funny watching us tip toe through it. It did not compare to the Pennine Way.
    Two Scots cowboys on buggies were rounding up sheep and for a moment we thought we would be trampled in the stampede.
    Then a considerable section of Tarmac walking. During this stage we were stopped by a lady who invited us in for a bit of Scottish hospitality. Tea, cheese and chocolate bickies. We spent an hour with Jannis and Ian. As we left another couple of walkers arrived and received the same hospitality. Really lovely moment.
    More Tarmac walking until we entered the forest.This change was too much and we got lost.
    We reached Castle Kennedy in time for our pick-up and our overnight stay in Stranraer.
    We would not recommend this stage.
    Les mer

  • Portpatrick

    10. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    The journey from Glasgow by train and bus was different. From Stranraer the train was on a single track with bushes and trees either and we were literally train bush bashing.
    Portpatrick is the starting point for the Southern Upland Way which is the longest Scottish walk at 341 kms. Our hotel overlooks the Irish Sea, but we cannot see Ireland.
    Tomorrow we start the walk with some long sections of +30km stages. Thankfully our bags are being carried. Wimps again.
    Sandi reckons we don't need to carry water we just open our mouths, as it rains a lot.
    Our hotel is the blue one
    Les mer

  • Glasgow

    9. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    In contrast to yesterday today is cold,wet & miserable. Still, like other tourists we ventured out visiting the Cathedral, which is like the weather.
    We took shelter in the oldest house in Glasgow. Built in 1471 for the Bishop. Banged my head a few times.
    Our next shelter was a cafe which sold flat whites. Very modern.
    The artwork on the side of buildings is quite impressive and I have included a few examples.
    Defeated by the weather we retired to the hotel drenched.
    Les mer

  • Glasgow

    8. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Due to major roadworks on the A1(M) the journey to Glasgow took longer than expected.
    We returned the car and finalised our Southern Upland Way walk.
    The weather was sunny and it looked like all of Glasgow was on the main shopping Mall, Buchanan Street, enjoying a fine day. It reminded us of Las Ramblas in Barcelona. Lots of artists and music.
    There was a local band, The Clannards, who I thought was good. I took a video but on this blog I cannot download.
    A sand sculpture of a dog caught our attention as around.
    Les mer

  • Bridlington continued

    8. juli 2017, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We had a busy , but great, day for our final day. First off we visited Pickering market town. Here the church had my favourite saint, St Sebastian. Full of arrows he wears a calm expression. "Is that the best you can do?"
    The town also has a steam train ride to Goathland (Aidensfield in Heartbeat TV series) and Whitby.
    Then on to Hemsley with its castle ruins, an old fashioned sweet shop,!a beautiful market town.
    The abbey ruins st Rievault , situated in a valley, was an impressive sight.
    From there we headed to another market town, Malton.
    The day ended with a lovely meal at The Seabird in Flamborough.
    Les mer

  • Bridlington

    6. juli 2017, England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We visited many places during our stay with C & H.
    The first day we visited a Sail windmill, at Skidby, still in , working order.
    Gee they worked hard in those days. Very interesting to see the old machines and how heavy the were.
    From there we headed to Hull, the 2017 Uk Cultural City.
    Very impressed with all the redevelopement going on.
    A lovelyMinster, being renovated, with great gardens and many fine old buildings.
    In the evening we had dinner at the Triton Inn in Sledmere.
    I had my favourite lamb shanks. Great meal and evening.
    .
    Les mer

  • New Boots

    6. juli 2017, England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left Liverpool early for our trip to Richmond in North Yorkshire where we picked up our new boots at Alt Berg.
    It was 12deg when we left and crossing the moors it drop to 8deg with rain.
    At Alt Berg our boots were ready and they fitted really well.
    From Richmond we headed down and across to Bridlington. There was a deviation on the A1 and the GPS and I did not have a clue where we were. I retraced me steps and followed a truck and bingo we were back on track. Nothing from the GPS as it was a new road. It sorted itself out and we arrived at Christine and Habib's about 2 pm.
    After lunch we went to Sewerby village and walked along the cliff tops onto the Esplanade in Bridlington. A lovely walk.
    Les mer

  • Liverpool

    6. juli 2017, England ⋅ 🌫 13 °C

    The expected delays around Birmingham didn't eventuate so we had a good drive to Liverpool. Here we spent 3 days seeing family. Beryl, Ronnie, Darren and his friend Zona. It was great to catch up.
    On our second day we all met in town and toured all the new developements after lunch. Liverpool has made great progress after being the UK's city of culture some years ago and redevelopment is still taking place.
    Beryl wanted us to see the oldest pub in town, The Philamonic. It still has the original urinal from 1853 and the smell there dates from that period.
    Les mer

  • Onward to Scotland

    2. juli 2017, England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    From Winchester we drove up the road to Marsh Baldon.
    There were formally 6 Baldons. Upper Baldon,Lower Baldon and Baldon in Between, Marsh Baldon, Toot Baldon and Baldon on the Green. Sadly only Marsh, Toot and Upper now exist.
    Our friend Beryl's family have lived in these villages for over 300 years. One Pub, a church and the village green and a collection of houses. No Noise. Peaceful.
    On Friday we went to see her daughter in law's funfare. Each year from May to October they tour the local villages. And the crowds still flock up. A piece of local history.
    We saw a calf being born in the field behind Beryl's garden and watched its first staggering steps. Fresh veggies from a locals allotment. !
    Yes they do taste different.
    The drive to Liverpool was uneventful and I was surprised there was no congestion around Birmingham.
    Beryl, Ronnie and Darren are all well and we spent the time here gossiping and visiting the renewal of the city centre.
    Les mer

  • The Cathedral

    29. juni 2017, England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We wandered around town before we went to join an escorted tour of the Cathedral. Very informative.
    July 17 marks the 200th anniversary of Jane Austen death. She was buried in the Cathedral and naturally, it intends to make the most of it. Close by are the remains of King Canute. You remember him sitting on his throne trying to stop the tide coming in.
    During the English Civil War the Parliamentary troops smashed windows around the Cathedral. The broken glass was collected by the locals and the West Window was made from the broken bits.
    From the photo of the nave and quire you can see its beauty.
    The Cathedral is one of the great churches of the UK and a great pleasure for us to visit. An added pleasure for Shirl was an exhibition of the Winchester Bible.
    After a good Italian lunch we strolled around the town visiting all its highlights. A very enjoyable day.
    Les mer

  • Winchester

    29. juni 2017, England ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We left the SWCP behind and travelled to Bournemouth by bus which goes by ferry across Poole Harbour.
    Our hire car is a Renault Captur, diesel, and is a nice car to drive.
    The forecast rain did not arrive until late afternoon so we were able to reconnoitre the town before heading indoors.
    Winchester was the capital of England in Anglo-Saxon times and it does not let you forget it. It's prior Roman history is barely mentioned. King Alfred the Great built a castle here, of which only the Great Hall remains. Did you know that King Arthur,s round table is suspended on one of the walls? No one can prove or disprove it. It brings the punters in.
    Les mer

  • The final walk on the SWCP

    26. juni 2017, England ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Tonight we are in Swanage after our final walk on the SWCP. We travelled from Dorchester and took the bus out to South Haven Point which is the end of the walk. Here we took photos of the End sculpture and then made our way to Swanage. Highlights were Harry's Rocks, a curly haired pig and the Pinnacles. A gentle walk with no severe ups and downs and a good final day.
    Tomorrow we head of to Bournemouth to pick up a car and visit Winchester, Beryl in Marsh Baldon, see Ronnie,Beryl and Darren in Liverpool, pick up new boots in Richmond and visit Habib and Christine before ending up in Glasgow.
    Les mer

  • Dorchester

    26. juni 2017, England ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The old roman town of Durnovaria is quite an interesting town to ramble around. The first human inhabitants appeared in 4000BC. So it has a rich history. There are 4 walks that explore its history. A Roman town walk, a Thomas Hardy walk, a Town and River walk and A Gallows walk. We did all four. Of interest to us was the Borough Gardens which is one of the finish in the country and contains an ornate Victorian clock and bandstand and has won the prestigious green flag award for the last 4 years (don't know what that is.
    The Maumbury rings (constructed as a Neolithic henge over 4500 years ago and made into an amphitheatre by the Romans. All that exists today is a grass amphitheatre.
    Fans of Thomas Hardy will no doubt be interested in The Mayor of Casterbridges's House.
    Of interest to us was the Tom Roberts plaque. Who was born here and was a acclaimed Australian landscape painter.
    The walk along the Mill Stream was a delight. Swans, cygnets,ducks and ducklings in a beautiful setting.
    An interesting day.
    We finished with a visit to the Old Oak Tea Room. This is where the supporters of the Duke of Monmouth attempt to seize the crown in 1685 were tried and convicted. 74 were executed, 175 were transported to the Caribbean virtually as slaves. The tea and cake were enjoyed as we surveyed the room were they were tried.
    Les mer

  • Portland/Dorchester

    26. juni 2017, England ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    On leaving Weymouth for Dorchester we planned to go to Portland with the intention of walking around the island. We caught the bus and were going to get off at Fortuneswell. 1.25hrs later , still on the bus we arrived back in Weymouth. A sea mist enveloped the island and we didn't see anything to arouse our interest.
    Dorchester looks an interesting place to look around. We shall see. It was a Roman town with some remains still visible.
    Les mer

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