• Brian Gallagher

Southern Upland Way

Et 15-dags eventyr af Brian Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    11. juli 2017

    Day 1 Portpatrick to Castle Kennedy

    11. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    The first stage of the walk was along the cliffs to the Killantringan lighthouse, which involved descents to Two coves where we picked up a stone to throw in the sea. In Dunbar. Nothing too dramatic in contrast to the SWCP.
    From there we turned inland for about an hour on Tarmac. Not too happy.
    Today's walk was a 2 bog day which we encounter for about 1/2 hour. It must be funny watching us tip toe through it. It did not compare to the Pennine Way.
    Two Scots cowboys on buggies were rounding up sheep and for a moment we thought we would be trampled in the stampede.
    Then a considerable section of Tarmac walking. During this stage we were stopped by a lady who invited us in for a bit of Scottish hospitality. Tea, cheese and chocolate bickies. We spent an hour with Jannis and Ian. As we left another couple of walkers arrived and received the same hospitality. Really lovely moment.
    More Tarmac walking until we entered the forest.This change was too much and we got lost.
    We reached Castle Kennedy in time for our pick-up and our overnight stay in Stranraer.
    We would not recommend this stage.
    Læs mere

  • Day 2. Castle Kennedy to New Luce

    12. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Another lovely day for walking. Dropped at St Castle Kennedy we walked about 1km to the gardens where spent an hour. Really great gardens covering 76 acres but we only saw a fraction. After a Scottish cream tea we commenced walking on Tarmac.only a short distance before we entered a field that the cows had really chewed up. Then we crossed the bog on a dyke which reduced the amount of wet periods. Not too bad. We entered a forest and some pleasant walking. crossing a field two friendly lambs welcomed us and were very inquisitive.
    The final 2 kms into New Luce were on Tarmac.
    Læs mere

  • Day 3. New Luce to Bargrennan

    13. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Today was difficult. 32kms that took us through 50%bog and 50% track and Tarmac. We left New Luce at 6-15 and finished at 16-15. A difficult 10 hours.
    The first hour was on Tarmac and then we had two hours through bog. We negotiated this OK but it saps the energy squelching through it.
    There are an enormous amount of wind turbines and the government want electricity to be supplied 100% by alternative energy by 2020. Judging by the amount of turbines they are well on there way.
    We visited our first Bothy. The beehive. Good emergency accommodation. The Laggangard standing stones were next. Over 4000 years old.
    We stopped for an apple on the bridge over the Purgatory Burn in the middle of the bog.
    There was lots of climbing under, over and around fallen trees. We are getting too old for this type of walking.
    Towards the end of the day walking through bog I tripped and fortunately landed head first on a tussock. Lucky me.
    After we arrived at our hotel and during dinner down came the rain. Not looking good for tomorrow.
    Both of us are carrying niggly injuries due to the hard going. A good nights rest is required.
    Læs mere

  • Day 4 Bargrennan to Craigenbay

    15. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Did you know Scotland is like Camelot? Only rains at night. After the rain last night we woke to a overcast day and on went the Gortex. We left at 0630 as another long day was ahead of us.
    The first hour saw us following the River Cree. Beautiful and peaceful. I've been telling Shirl a Monarch of the Glen will suddenly appear and we will have a perfect photo. Not today.
    We were surprised how good the track was. Only occassional boggy patches. For a while it was a grassy path.
    On arrival at the Waters of Trool we actually saw a bench. You know the one for sitting on. The first in 4 days. More followed as we walked on a good track. This is a ramblers circuit and thankfully they have improved conditions.
    More surprises followed. We actually met 2 walkers by Loch Trool. A beautiful. Picture perfect loch on one side and logging devastation on the other.
    Another surprise followed with a heavy laden walker sitting on another bench. It was too much.
    More Lochs followed with good tracks and we reached our pick-up point after 9 hours.
    Ronnie our BNB host was full of information. The Knights Templar stayed in Daley and that's how it got its name.
    There is a photo of an inscribed stone we don't know it is but will find out.
    Dinner was at the Clachan inn. Yes as it was evening it started raining and the no wonder we have not seen any Monarchs. They adorned the dining room. Empty at first but filled up later.
    Læs mere

  • Day 5. SJT of Dalry to Stroanpatrick

    16. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We have been deceived. We are not in Camelot but Scotland. Light rain and thick mist for our walk today.
    Maxine was the other guest at breakfast. Aged 73, from Geelong, near Melbourne, she has been coming here for the past 21 years,cycling. She brings her own bike over and cycles around meeting friends she has encountered over the years. An inspirational woman.
    The SUW goes past the back garden of our BNB so we hopped over the back fence to commence the walk, 4hours on the moors with only a short time on Tarmac or track.
    The sheep scattered as we approached. Probably don't get much human contact.
    This is a very wet part of the world and our boots were soon soaked. Should have worn the gaiters.
    Rating 5 tussocks is when you need a submarine and in places we got close to that. I lead so if I become submerged Shirl has time to get the submarine out of her pack.
    The lichen on the telegraph poles indicates how wet it is here. A small yellow orchid thrives in these conditions. When we saw large clumps of them we avoided there territory. I called them The Yellow Submarine orchids.
    We were thankful for Pocket Earth, an app on my phone, as the mist was so thick at times we were unable to see the marker poles.
    They say the views are terrific, pity we didn't see too many.
    Despite the conditions we enjoyed the experience.
    Læs mere

  • Day 6. Sanquhar

    16. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Well it Camelot today. Good weather for walking but we joined our bags on the way here. With a few niggly injuries we decided to take it easy today. This is a tough walk with the distance between accommodation too much for us.
    At breakfast we watched the sparrows, starlings, finches and siskins( European migratory bird) squabbling over the feed.
    Our taxi driver, Andrea, didn't stop talking. Good company. She diverted off the route for us to see Drumlanrig castle.
    Our accommodation is at Newark Farm. A working farm. Francis, the owner, talks more than Andrea.
    We toured the town first seeing the Arts centre. Sanquhar is famous for its knitting. Very expensive with a unique design.
    Lunch followed and after a visit to the fine Museum we return to rest.
    Robbie Burns visited this town many times.
    Sanquhar paid a prominent part when the Covenants were hunted and killed.
    Looking forward to tomorrow as we cross the highest point of the SUW.
    I forgot to mention that the Post Office is the oldest in Scotland. Built in 1712, two years after Newark Farm House was built.
    Læs mere

  • Day 7. Sanquhar to Overfingland.

    17. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Last night I thought I had a major problem. I had sent emails confirming our reservations on the West Highland Way. All confirmed except one which told me the reservation was cancelled. A phone call and a couple of emails solved the problem. The lass had misread my email. What a relief.
    Today we caught a bus up to Wanlockhead, the highest village in the UK. It was the centre of lead mining in this area. Everything was closed on Mondays.
    The walk to the pick-up point at Overfingland crossed the highest point in the walk at 725 m. Mountains between 2000-3000 are Donald's. Above 3000m they are referred to as Munros. What followed was a series of steep ascents/descents as we made our way across the moorland. Good track for 2/3rds then some bog. Quite manageable.
    Weather was fine with a brisk, cool breeze. Good for walking.
    Ran, the owner of Hopetoun Arms Hotel in Leadhills, picked us up and drove us back to the hotel. The highest in Scotland.
    Didn't take many photos today as it was of moorlands and the camera does not do justice to this type of scenery.
    The ball on the top of the hill is a radar station.
    Læs mere

  • Day7. Daer reservoir to Moffat

    19. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    In preparation for a long day we breakfasted at 7 am and as suggested by Rab & Rachel we were driven to Daer Reservoir. "Walking from Overfingland to Daer Reservoir is no worth the effort"
    We commenced walking at 8-15 and in two hours we had walked the roller coaster over Sweetshaw Brae(448m), Hod's Hill (567m) and Beld Knowe (507m). There are a
    an incredible amount of wind turbines in this area.(magnify the photo). Then followed the long descent where we shed all the height down a forest fire trail. The walking was reasonably good and with my trusty app we had no problems following the path.
    Lunch was taken in Brattleburn Bothy. Heaven! Chairs to sit on. Two Aussies from Tasmania had made the last log entry 3 days ago(see photo). They had lots of saws here.
    A climb over Craig Hill (360m) followed before the terrain levelled off.
    We met two females walkers and their dog out for a ramble who told us the going was easy to Moffat.
    In case you think we are superhuman the total ascent for all the climbs was about 750 ms
    We hit the so/called Crooked Road and then followed 5kms on Tarmac. Thankfully the girls met us about 1 1/2!kms from town and gave us a lift. We had nearly drunk all our water and were a little dehydrated on this hot.long walk.
    Rest day tomorrow.
    Læs mere

  • Day 9. Rest Day Moffat.

    21. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Sorry about the mix up in the days. Must be old age. A quiet restful day resting and wandering around town.
    The afternoon saw 4 Swiss walkers arrive to walk from Moffat to Cockburnpath. Younger and fitter.
    We were told to buy "Jungle Juice" to ward off the midges and horse flies. Which we did. ( Jungle Formula with Deet)
    I forgot to tell you about the seagulls , in Stranraer, that built there nest on a sailors car. He was away for two months. He was not allowed to remove the nest or his car. So it sits in the car park until the authorities allow him to move it.
    Dinner was at the Star Hotel. The narrowest pub in the world.(In the Guinness book of records)
    I have enclosed a poem about Moffat weather.
    Læs mere

  • Day 10. Moffat to St Mary,s Loch.

    21. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The Swiss group left just after 8 while we waited for the taxi to take us and our bags to The Gordon Arms.
    A lovely drive and we arrived at 12.
    After lunch a short walk and then we rested.
    A good evening meal and the Swiss told us of there travels. Apparently a lot of road walking.Læs mere

  • Day 11. St Mary's Loch to Innerleithen.

    21. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Just after we started we made a small diversion to the ruined Dryhope tower. Built by the local Laird in the 15 hundreds to protect him and his family from marauders.
    From there it was a good ,grassy, track over the moors. No "Boggy Bog" according to Shirl. This is better country with lots of sheep. Apart from a light shower it was an overcast bday, good for walking.
    Innerleithen is a good 3 kms off the track. Unfortunately on Tarmac.
    Læs mere

  • Day 12. Innerleithen to Galashiels

    23. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Weather forecast not good but we left at 8 am after breakfast. Light rain.
    We left the road after 35 mins and started the long climb up to Minch Moor on the old droving trail. Today, it seems. Is the day for meeting people. Two boys walking the dogs and then two runners. The runners told us they were organising, next year, a run over the SUW. There welcome to that.
    The mist thickened as we continued our climb, passing the sculpture in the heather, Resolution.
    Fortunately the track was clearly defined as the mist continued to thicken.
    Another walker loomed out of the mist coming towards us. A Dutchman who had walked from Lands End and hoped to reach Edinburgh.
    I took a photo of Shirl in the mist. She was about 50 metres away.
    Reaching the Three Brethren was a relief because we now were going down. Or so we thought. With about two hours to go the rain really intensified just as we started going up again. Quite a nasty little climb.
    Relieved we reached our destination after 7-3/4 hours. Drenched.
    Læs mere

  • Day 13 Galashiels to Lauder

    25. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Weather forecast heavy rain. Not wanting to be drowned again we arranged to accompany our bags to Lauder.!
    The morning was spent viewing Galashiels in the rain. Had a decent coffee in a Turkish cafe and engaged in conversation with the owners and their clients. They were impressed with our exploits.
    Lauder is a quiet. Lovely town. The owners of our BnB have sold up to join their two sons in OZ. The Gold Coast. John & Ruth couldn't stop talking about their excitement at living in Oz.
    It was frustrating because the heavy rain did not happen and we could have walked.
    Læs mere

  • Day 14. Lauder to Longformacus

    25. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    A long, boring day over the moors. Our climb to the moors commenced after a short time and it wasn't long before the Swiss group joined and then passed us. We have had our fill of moors. This is a desolate area with lots of grouse. Soon to be shot at as the season opens on the tenth of August.
    On our arrival at Twin Law on the Lammermuir hill we joined
    Barbara, Tina, Walter and Patrick having lunch. Very enjoyable meeting.
    They left and shortly after we continued.
    Very pleased to arrive at Longformacus. We are all staying at the only BnB in town. There was a mix-up in transport arrangements to the nearby town of Duns, but we had an enjoyable evening.
    Læs mere

  • Longformacus to Cockburnspath

    25. juli 2017, Skotland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The final day was supposed to be cloudy. It rained: very our fellow walkers and retired to bed. gently.
    We decided to take a taxi to Abbey St Bathans as we did not think we would make it to catch the last bus to Dunbar, our final destination.
    A pleasant walk by the river was followed by meadows of heavy, freed grass.
    We made good progress and I lead at a faster than normal pace. After about 4 hours we entered a forest trail with lots of fungi.
    We were tiring and when we encountered some heavy bush/bashing at the Pease Dean wildlife reserve. They really do need to do some serious maintenue on this section.
    A short detour to cast our stones into the sea was followed by a coffee at the caravan park.
    We then took a short cut as I wanted to catch the 1504 bus to Dunbar. We made it with 4 minutes to spare.
    We had a good evening meal., said hi to our fellow walkers and then retired to bed, thankful to have finished the SUW.
    Læs mere

    Slut på rejsen
    25. juli 2017