Smokeys, Rockies & Red Rocks

September - October 2022
Headed out west on the ultimate camper van adventure. Plan to see the Smokey Mountains, the Gateway to the West, Colorado, the National Parks of Utah, the Grand Canyon, Las Vegas, Sedona and more. Read more
  • 56footprints
  • 1countries
  • 33days
  • 560photos
  • 37videos
  • 7.0kmiles
  • 68miles
  • Day 10

    Breathless at Pikes Peak

    September 10, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    Pikes Peak is not the tallest mountain, but it is unique in that you can drive to the summit. It is called America's Mountain. At 14,115 feet elevation it is certainly tall, and the oxygen is low at that elevation.

    It was a rainy morning down below the clouds, but rain or shine, Pikes Peak here we come. We packed up after coffee, without showers, and headed to the National Forest. It's a State Park and National Forest and they charge $15 a person for entry at the gate at the base of the mountain.

    It's a 19.5 mile drive to the top with narrow twisting roads, steep cliffs and often no guardrails. We stopped at the first visitor center, but it was only a gift shop and they wanted $73 for a sweatshirt. At 8,000 feet we could hardly breathe. Short of breath and dizzy, we walked slowly back to the van. "Don't turn too fast or bend down." Doug warned me as he lost his balance and held his head.

    At 8,500 feet, we noticed that the trees started to get shorter which we assumed was from the lack of oxygen. The Pikes Peak Marathon is next weekend. I can't even imagine how people run this. There were bicyclists and hikers headed up.

    At 11,000 feet we were above the clouds and it was sunny and bright, 31 degrees. At 11,800 feet the trees stop growing completely and there is only rock and some short grass. We were on the lookout for mountain goats. At 13,000 feet, we spotted some mountain goats, but they were at a distance and difficult to photograph. There was a small crater lake in the flat part of the grassy mountain nearby. By 13,700 feet there was no more grass.

    We arrived to the summit and laboriously got ourselves out of the van for the hike to the visitor center. The air was cold and the wind whipped around us. The visitor center is a large building built on the edge of the cliff. It's mostly glass on the back side for the view. We can only see to the top of the clouds though, so the views are limited. I'm afraid of heights, so going to the edge of any railing or structure isn't my forte. It's warm inside. There is a Cafe, gift shop, and an interactive historical museum. After roaming around and taking our photographs, we sat down for a minute to get our nerve up to go back outside. It's beautiful up here, but almost too uncomfortable to fully enjoy it. We made tuna sandwiches and it was time to head back down the mountain.

    On the way down, we saw a couple of mountain goats next to the road and they posed for us. Doug was driving. The van wouldn't shift down to first gear. About mile marker 18, the brake light came on. We pulled over and let a few vehicles pass us. A van with a family of 8 that we saw at the summit passed by us, and we could smell their brakes burning.

    A little bit further down was a brake check stop point. The woman checked our brakes and said they were hot. She advised that we pull over for 20 to 30 minutes to cool down, drive in first gear for the next 3 miles, then use second gear.

    We pulled over and Doug went on a hiking excursion. 11,000 feet somehow felt so much better than 14,000. We were acclimating. I had signal on my phone, so I stayed in the van to map the rest of the day. I'm not feeling stellar today as the TMJ pain has flared again and I feel like I'm getting a cold. The sugar and campfire has done me in.

    We used the walkie-talkies to communicate. Doug's handle is Noodle and I am Pepper. "Oh my God, babe, it's so amazing up here! Open the side door of the van and look up." I can see him in the distance up on the rocks through the trees. Doug missed the sign that said "No hiking past this point", so he was hiking the rocks, testing out his new hiking boots. He found a grassy knoll and laid down in the grass.

    Doug returned alive with excitement, a story, and a handful of gift store items including matching Pikes Peak T-shirts and another magnet for the van.

    We made it safely down the mountain. Moab, Utah is 8 hours away, and that's our destination for tonight. I'm driving.
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  • Day 10

    Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Pa

    September 10, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Black Canyon of the Gunnison is a National Park out in the middle of nowhere in Colorado. It's a canyon gorge of gorgeous dark rock and was definitely worth the drive in.

    We arrived after the visitor center closed just as the setting sun was casting sunlight on the side of the gorge. As the sun quickly lowered, the light on the gorge was gone. We stopped for photos and a kiss and got back on the road.

    We'll arrive in Moab at 10:40 pm. I'm serving turkey rolls, sliced smoked gouda and smoked salmon as we drive. Doug eats his sunflower seeds and spits the hulls into an empty water bottle.
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  • Day 11

    Day of Rest & Catch Up

    September 11, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Today is for rest and cleaning. Doug had lots of energy this morning, so while I was blowing my nose, blogging, doing laundry and making campsite reservations, Doug washed the van, cleaned out the cargo, went shopping on his bicycle, and fixed my bike.

    After 5 days,we finally got a shower and shave! By mid afternoon, Doug started to have cold symptoms as well, so we did nasal flushes together and went to bed early.

    I was able to get a timed every pass for Arches National Park for tomorrow morning.

    On the home front, Kris says that the bathtub and shower plumbing has been set in place.
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  • Day 12

    Arches National Park

    September 12, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    The only way to get into Arches National Park is with a timed reservation pass, which is a brilliant idea. It means that only 200 cars are allowed to enter the park each hour and your entry wait time will be about 30 minutes. I was able to get passes last night for 9 am. It was a hot day so in hind sight I wish I had got the earlier reservation. By 10:30 it was just too hot to hike anymore, especially since I was not feeling well. I persevered; however, and we did a 2 mile hike on the Park Avenue Trail. Doug hiked out to the arches, but I couldn't handle the heat.

    We drove through all areas of the park and stopped at every overlook as well as the visitor center. The rock formations are beautiful. There really are no words to describe them. As we drove through and on our hike, I had a sense of awe and quiet reverence that came over me.

    Back to the campground, we began researching B plus RVs and were looking at the Leisure Unity. We found it online first, but then a retired couple, who are doing RV travel full time since last summer, pulled into the campground, two hookups down from us. We went to talk to them and they showed us their RV. It's similar to the Airstream model, but quite a bit cheaper. There are five different floorplans.

    Besides all the issues this van has had, Im tired of the 8 minute bed conversion every evening and morning, requiring calisthenics. This van has had so many issues on this trip. Every day it seems like there's something else wrong with it. I believe I'm ready to trade it in. Here is the list of things that are broken:

    Water leaking out from under bed
    Hot water heater doesn't get the water hot and takes 45 minutes to heat to barely warm
    Bed front panel doesn't latch, screws stripping and metal frame not installed correctly underneath the bed, difficult to open and close
    2 drawers will not close so they are held with tape when on the road
    Awning not functioning at all, only used it once back in April
    AC on van chassis broke... to be fixed on the 19th
    Table broke,  stripped off paneling
    Sensors on tanks, gray and black not accurate when empty they read 2/3

    Mind you, this is a 2022 Thor Sequence built on a 2021 RAM Promaster chassis. I've owned it for six months. It's under warranty and they will fix everything, but really?
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  • Day 13

    Canyonlands National Park

    September 13, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Canyonlands is even more beautiful than Arches in my opinion. Arches seems to be the more well known and popular park, however. Maybe because of its name or because it's close proximity to Moab.

    This park is gorgeous. Beautiful rock canyons of every color, weaving in and out like a vast winding river. The Colorado River does flow through the bottom supposedly, but we couldn't see it.

    We hiked about 2 miles on the cliffs. It was more like climbing rocks along a cliff edge with abundant opportunity for photo shoots. Doug was frequently getting very close to the cliff edge. It made me nervous; I had to turn and not look. After being there for awhile I adapted and I was getting closer to the edge than I thought I would. We walked and we walked and we got some great pictures. I didn't want to turn around and head back to the van, but we hadn't brought water with us because we thought it was just a single overlook viewpoint.

    Heading back, there was a rainbow through the Canyon. I've never seen a rainbow that was at a lower elevation than me. It was also especially wide, with each color of the rainbow uniquely predominant. Of all the places, we've been so far this was my favorite.
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  • Day 14

    Sick Travel Day

    September 14, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We traveled from Moab to Bryce Canyon today, and we're staying at the Bryce Canyon Pines Campground tonight. It was about a 5 hour drive. We arrived and fell asleep.

    Both Doug and I are very sick. Mine started with a sore throat on the 10th, followed by low grade fever, runny nose, congestion and extreme sinus pressure. I'm past the worst of it.

    Doug actually wasn't sick until the evening of the 13th. Whatever it was before, probably just dust in his nose, was not this. His symptoms are different than mine, however... started with sore throat, then fever much higher than mine, chills, muscle aches, and a bit of sinus.

    We keep trekking on, but it has put a kibosh on the hiking which was what we were looking forward to the most. Until today, we were getting in 2 miles a day. Now that Doug is sick, I'm nursing him, making him curry bean soup and ginger tea, and covering him with every blanket and flannel shirt we have.

    Written the next morning, September 15th.
    You know how men are when they are sick,.. and Douglas tends to be pretty dramatic when he's well, so yeh, he's been extremely vocal about it. I try not to laugh at him because I know how miserable he is, but he is quite hilarious at times. Last night he broke out singing "Fever" in the middle of the night. "Oh my God, babe. Tomorrow you're going to take me out and shoot me. We'll dig a big hole, and you'll shout me." A little bit later, "F@#% Fauci!" Then he comes up with an elaborate plot to rob a pharmacy of hydroxychloroquine, leaving our cell phones behind at the campground so they can't track us. "Every time something cold hits my skin, it feels like a third degree burn!" Now I can't laugh because he's very sick, burning up. "How long have I had a fever? Three days?" "No, it's been 36 hours, " I reply. I have my arm over him to help keep him warm. I check his CVAT to rule out kidney infection, negative. We turned the van on twice during the night for a few minutes. It's 42 degrees outside at 7 am. I made another batch of ginger tea as we make our shopping list together.

    On the drive, we stopped to view Black Dragon; well I did. He was sleeping in the back. We drove through scenic byway 12 which was gorgeous! The red rocks are even more red here. We stopped at Dixie State Park and walked around the parking lot for 5 minutes. The beauty of this earth never ceases to amaze me.
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  • Day 15

    Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort

    September 15, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We arrived straight away at our campsite at the Zion Ponderosa Ranch Resort. My phone says it's 10:30 am when we arrive, but it's actually 11:30. They allow us to check in early. The woman at the desk says that some phones pick up Arizona Standard Time. There is that one part of Arizona that does not switch to Daylight Savings Time. For some reason, my phone is there. It's a little confusing, and just adds to all of the other disorientation we are feeling.

    The resort is out in the middle of nowhere and we have a completely private back-in site surrounded by trees. The Wifi works amazing throughout the park despite being a distance from the clubhouse. They have everything here... condos, yurts, covered wagins and cabins.... tennis, horseback riding, trails, mini golf and transportation to a multitude of tours including jeep, ATV and canyoneering tours. This would be a great place to bring the family for a week. The pool, showers and laundry are not too far away from our site. It's a warm day in the sun but also crisp, about 70 degrees. We decide to hit the hot tub. The hot water and sunshine should do us some good.

    Back and forth between the hot tub and jumping into the cold pool, I float for a few minutes and return to the hot tub. I repeat this cycle 5 times until my legs feel like noodles. It's so relaxing. The sun is intense. My nose and forehead pinken.

    What else do we do today besides hot tubbing? We showered and shaved. I cooked soup for dinner. We walked around a bit. I video-called my girls and granddaughter. I engage in my leadership class small group zoom meeting that occurs every two weeks. The topic is focus, staying focused on important tasks that align with daily, weekly, quarterly and annual goals.

    Retiring into the van after sunset, we watched Handmaid's Tale and I made Doug my "Hot Toddy" drink made from extra creamy oat milk, agave nectar and cinnamon and heated in the microwave. The new season of Handmaid's Tale is coming out this month, so we're starting from season 1 and watching them all again. I ask Doug, "Why do you like this show?" thinking it's more of a chic flic show. "This could be our future," he replies. "We have to wake up and fight for our freedoms." One benadryl and my Invisalign at bedtime... this is my new remedy for TMJ.
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  • Day 16

    Zion National Park

    September 16, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Doug is feeling miserable today, but he drove us into Zion. We came in through the east entrance... free entry with the annual pass.

    I was in Zion National Park once before in 1989 on a family trip in a 37 foot RV. We thought my Dad was going to drive us off a cliff, but we all survived. It is a gorgeous National Park. Many people say that they think it is the most beautiful of all the National Parks.

    Driving in we wound around the mountain pass, oohing and aahing over the beautiful mountains and scenery. I took pictures and navigated us toward the visitor center. The Park is busy today, and there is no room to pull over at any of the overlooks. Windows down, I snap pictures from the passenger seat of the van. We saw rock climbers and got out my new, never-used-before binoculars which worked fantastically. We saw Big Horn sheep, about 20 of them. We went through a 1.1 mile tunnel through the mountain that was built in 1939. The Park is just as gorgeous as I remember.

    We're limited today due to the illness, so we will not be able to see the whole park. In 1999, they started a new shuttle system. A visitor will park at the shuttle parking lot or the visitor center, then take a free shuttle up to the north road through the park. This is the only way to see the upper half of the park. We obviously are too sick to get on a shuttle. I could have gone, but I would have to leave Doug in the van without AC, and it's just too hot. Also, there was absolutely no place to park. We'll just have to come back... maybe next year.

    Doug "parked" at the end of the loading, unloading lane by the visitor center, while I went in to get the passport stamped and look around. It's a large visitor center "gift shop" with plenty of interesting merchandise. I bought a couple of stickers and got my passport stamped.

    After deciding that the shuttle was not an option for us, I drove us back out through the east entrance to our campsite. Doug slept in the back. Coming out of the park at noon, there were plenty of places to pull over at the overlooks and I did a few times. I got out and climbed a few rocks and took some pictures.

    Doug has taught me a few things on this trip... manual gear shifting and nasal douching to name a couple. Both have been very helpful. Driving through the mountain passes, I shifted into 2nd and 3rd gear instead of using my brakes.

    We arrived back at the campground early. What to do the rest of the day besides wash our sheets? Nothing, pretty much nothing. It's the weekend and the campground is filling up. There's a Glamping Event this weekend, but we are not feeling social. The hot tub is full, so no hot tub today. We sat at our campsite and hung out the rest of the day. Doug was so sweet and picked me flowers. I put it in a toilet paper vase. Twenty wild turkeys passed our campsite as we sat outside together. We retired early. Maybe tomorrow we will feel better.
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  • Day 17

    Las Vegas Here We Come

    September 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Well it's been a miserable last few days. We haven't been able to do much more than commiserate together and watch Hulu. This morning we at least feel like we can think clearly... a little less disoriented. The van is cleaned up and ready to roll, and Vegas is just 3 hours away. Bye, Zion Ponderosa. We will be back to play again.

    On the home front, the bathroom sheet rock and drywall is up.
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  • Day 17

    Nellis Air Force Base

    September 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    It feels so much better to be at lower elevation and have sufficient oxygen again. Both of us today feel like we have magically returned to the land of the living.

    We drove back through Zion on the way out, from the east entrance and exiting the south entrance of the Park. The South Campground inside of Zion looks really nice and Springdale, Utah, the town just south of the park entrance looks like a lot of fun. Definitely plan to come back.

    We left Zion area one day early, despite campground reservations, because of the elevation challenges. The elevation with a head cold just wasn't working for either of us. The disorientation was crazy. I won't tell you some of the crazy conversations and thought processes that we had; they were close to delirious. The Arkansas license plate was one of them. There was an special weekend event going on at the campground this weekend for the Glampers. They had a live band playing until 11 pm. Normally we would be out there partying with the rest of them, but the music was hurting our heads. Earlier when we felt a slight inclination to take a turn about at sunset, we didn't ... only because we didn't want to see or talk to people... forget spreading germs; socializing takes too much energy.

    Let me tell you a little about the disorientation... first of all, we can barely hear because our ears are plugged and the constant elevation changes when driving challenges this even more. My eyesight has changed on this trip. My readers were no longer working at all; I couldn't see my phone to read at all with the readers that I had. So I bought a stronger level of readers at the dollar store. I lost my sunglasses that were bifocals the night of the Red Rocks concert, so driving and reading my map screen at the same time is impossible. We can't smell because we're all stuffed up. Taste is limited as well. I don't think we have covid, but who knows and I really don't care. We feel dizzy. We feel short of breath. We can't remember anything; the recent days are all jumbled together. The lack of oxygen to the brain and the general inability to read the world through our normal senses creates a complete disorientation.

    For example, yesterday when I went into the visitor center at Zion, I went to stamp my National Park Passport book. When I opened the book, I saw that I didn't have a stamp for Bryce Canyon. I had a moment of panic. I thought we went to Bryce Canyon. I even titled a post in my blog "Bryce Canyon". Why didn't I get the stamp in my passport? This sent my brain spiraling in complete confusion for the next hour. I looked through my picture gallery and the dates. I looked at my calendar. I looked at the tracker on the app of exactly where we have traveled. I wasn't able to solve the puzzle. My mind was reeling. If we didn't go to Bryce, why not? Did we forget to go? Did we go and don't remember? Did we consciously decide not to go and don't remember the decision making process? I had no clue. All I could do is drive, stop and climb a few rocks while Doug was passed out in the van, and then drive some more until it didn't matter. In the end, we think that after the night of very little sleep, when Doug was having hallucinations of robbing pharmacies, we decided to not go.

    I drove and Doug slept on the sofa, moaning occasionally about his ears being clogged, blowing his nose or hacking up phlegm. We have to repeat everything we say three times because we can't hear. The windows of the van are down as we drive in an attempt to keep us cool. We've gone through about 4 rolls of toilet paper for our noses alone, and bought Vaseline to soothe our crusty lips and noses.

    We're in the desert now. As we drive I-15 and turn off our exit to the military base, there's a fog-like look to the air all around us, clouding the Vegas skyline ahead. It's not humidity; it's dust. We're on Las Vegas Boulevard. We pass a dirt riding area with side by side ATVs and then a couple hundred dirt bike riders with flags on their bikes. We pass the Las Vegas Motor Speedway with the big sign announcing NASCAR coming October 14-16.

    We arrived at the Nellis Air Force base at about 1300. Doug is a Veteran and with his military ID has full access to any military base, commissary and military campground in the US. It's $27 a night to stay here in the upgraded camping spot. We checked in and found our campsite.

    Another purpose of coming to Las Vegas for a day was to see if I wanted to upgrade the van to a larger camper. We went to an RV dealership and looked at a couple of B+ RVs including a used Airstream Atlas. It was very nice, but wasn't a long term match for me. Also the final price tag would not be a wise purchase. $1500 a month for 20 years! I'd rather invest that money in real estate/land once the prices drop a bit. So for now, I will keep the van. I'm trying to treat her a little kinder and be grateful for what I have. Doug on the other hand, at 6 foot 3 inches tall, is tired of hitting his head on cabinets. I get to hear the expletives about 10 times a day. He does have a small cut on the top of his head, and I have a 5 inch long wound on my leg from running into a drawer. It's super tight quarters.

    Heading back to the campsite, I realized I've not named my van yet. "Little Miss" came to mind. Doug says, "Little Miss the target".

    We went to the shop on base to get some wine. Yes, we ARE feeling better... tomorrow we will check out the commissary. At the campsite, we enjoyed our wine and cooked dinner together... chicken and pasta with a garlic cream sauce, spinach and sautéed carrots. And we talked about the future...

    Thank you, Little Miss, for accompanying us on this adventure.
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