Canada 2017

July - August 2017
A 23-day adventure by Mark Read more
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  • Day 19

    Tash is 14, off road day trip

    August 14, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    So Tash turns 14. Where did the time go! Opened up her cards that we had brought with us then headed to hotel for breakfast. Were down there about 7.40 but it took them a while to bring the food - was proper service not buffet. Was geared up for leisurely time whereas we were in bit of rush, needing to meet the off road guy Blain at Pacific Rim visitor Centre about 25 minutes away at 8.45. Ended up getting there about 8.55. Blain was waiting with his pickup with two rzr' s on it. A German/Austrian couple were also waiting and did the trip with us, they had two seater, us a four. We went to loo, Blain said was last proper one before we went wild for rest of day. Tasha's face was not impressed by this news!

    We followed Blain about 5 minutes down road to a small parking lot with gravel road going off it. We filled in waivers again while he unloaded the 4 by 4's. Germans had a practice in theirs, then we got in ours. Basically same as ones we had driven in Whistler. Blain gave slightly scary speech about what to do and not to do, then we had a practice run. Ours had tendency to stall when you came to halt we were told, so bst to try and keep some revs on and slow slowly. Wasn't really a problem when we got used to it, it did stall but just restarted. Blain wanted much more distance between us than in Whistler where it had been a car length apart. 30m here, much more comfortable! Then we set off. Me and Tash in front, Ed and Sam in back. We drove along a reasonable gravel road for maybe 20 minutes and stopped on a wooden bridge over Kennedy river. Hadn't been that exciting so far and I think we all wondered whether we had signed up for the wrong thing. Ed was miserable as his helmet was uncomfortable hitting the seat back. Blain talked about Kennedy lake and Kennedy river and lots of cars came past, apparently a piece of land down road is used as overflow basic i.e. No facilities campsite where people end up when they arrive in Tofino and find everything better is full! Noticed one car had toilet roll in front window. Ed swapped to front and we pressed on. Road got bumpier and less maintained but continued at 50 to 60 km/h. Not too much dust unlike Whistler. Things were more exciting now as bumpier and the overnight rain had left puddles in the track, which I decided to aim for to spice things up. First one was bigger than I expected and we got a big wave of water up over the front of the vehicle. No windscreen so we all got wet. Ed loved this and think Tash did too and wanted to hit every puddle and get very wet, which we duly tried to do.

    After a while we stopped at viewpoint across the inlets and islands where we had bear watched yesterday. Was still but overcast. Quite few flies about, most we had encountered I think. Took opportunity to use facilities! Blain said road had been improved in last year or so for big logging trucks to get down, filled whole road and stacked high. Hard to imagine bringing lorry down that track. We swapped again Ed in back Tash in front and pressed on with road getting bumpier, quite a few narrow bridges over creeks. And quite a lot of puddles. The others were avoiding them, which gave me an indication of where to drive to hit them!. About 2 hours in we stopped and turned around, we were at Virgin Falls. Short walk through woods to base of falls. Spectacular, better given the rain night before. Small pool at bottom which even Ed declared too cold to paddle in - he did try with shoes and socks off. Certainly not swimmable though we had brought costumes in case.

    Lunch was set up on a fallen tree (huge) across the beach area. Very tasty. Rolls, ham, roast beef and mayo and mustard. Blain's wife had packed avocado for Sam instead of butter/mayo to spread on. Lettuce, cucumber with skin off. Tasted great in wild and even kids ate it. Cookies too which kids devoured and peaches, nice and ripe. Loads of bottles of water to drink. Ed climbed along the fallen tree and explored the roots - got a bit stuck trying to get down roots so Blain went across and rescued him. Really nice man. No one else was there and it was very peaceful. Good place to have a memorable birthday lunch.

    Back in vehicle we retraced steps. We followed Blain and Germans behind this time. They had great fun watching us hitting the puddles. One deep one spanned the path and I accelerated through it, water went right over top and continued to drip through gap,in roof onto Sam and Tash for a while.

    I let both kids steer as I did accelerator which they enjoyed, Tash more than Ed, who wa bit nervous of going wrong. At one point we took a wrong turn, upper rather than lower fork. To be fair Tash had steered right way but I had overruled. Could have carried on but didn't know that at time so reversed and rejoined. Back at start Blain refuelled then we crossed the highway and went down path the other way. It narrowed and we met a couple of logging trucks loaded down. Had to steer into verge and park at an angle to let them past, Ed felt he was falling out. Went higher up mountain and then hit track that barely looked like a path. Was very overgrown on each side and barely wide enough for vehicle. This meant we got hit in helmet with foliage and quite a lot of branches ended up in the vehicle. Ed and Sam in the back in particular were holding various branches by the end, Ed thought it hilarious. At some points we crossed streams not much water but quite uneven. At one Blain went through but told us to stop and he came back to give me instructions on line to take in case we tipped over. He offers to drive it himself but I declined. First go got it little wrong and seemed like we might tip, Blain came in to support vehicle if it did and we let it roll back and readjusted and went through fine, though quite rocky and Ed was worried. The two seater was easy to get through as much shorter wheelbase.

    Trail got narrower until everntually opened out into little clearing, with great views over Barkley Sound and the Broken Group of islands. Blain talked about wanting to come up here with a tent and watch the sunset and sunrise. We also talked about salmon fishing and fact Fisheries Ministry controlled fishing numbers based on predicted numbers returning. Got it wrong this year. Thought would be low number but already exceeded. Also talked about First Nation guys. Blain has remote house he uses on their land so has dealings with tribal chief. Tribe used to be 5000 or more, now about 300,

    Had some great cheese (a cheddar called English Tickler) crackers and beef jerky. Slightly spicy with Korean spice. Tash didn't like the spice despite liking jerky. Sam and I loved it and we all loved the cheese.

    Retraced route, Ed in front this time. More foliage and easier to get through tricky section this way, though still needed Blain's advice on line. We blitzed back to base and Tash managed to fall asleep in back - she can sleep in any moving vehicle!

    Said our goodbyes and headed back to Long Beach Lodge. Got back about 4.30 and changed and went to beach. Ed went in with hoard but declared it much colder than day before. Wind was less so was warmer on beach but day had not been as sunny so water not warmed up I guess. He had a coupe of surfs then decided to build in sand. Sam and Tash come down but headed straight back as Tash tired and they dropped boards back.

    Ed built a turtle in the sand then we went back and into hot tub. Had good soak for 40 minutes or so (Ed less) almost fell asleep. I got out and Tash got in for 15 minutes or so then we headed off to her birthday dinner at Wolf in the Fog. This turned out to be a cool place using local produce and funky menu with really friendly staff. I had put birthday on booking so they mentioned it straight away when we sat down and continued to mention it to Tash. They did mocktails, Tash had three different types. The crockery and cutlery was all old chine, none of it matching, you just got what came. We had some great food, shared some starters - foie gras for me with hinit of earl grey was great. Scallops and pork belly for Tash which Ed also loved. Herring for Sam - little daunting as whole herring skewered on sticks.

    Halibut main for Tash - waiter checked as was experimental dish with unusual things on it, but she was fine with it, apart from not eating the veg obviously. Sam had beef, I had green soul, which was bubble and squeak with other veg and a vinegar sauce. Ed had kids chicken fillets and chips. We all struggled to finish as was filling. Then desserts, only 3 so had them all, Tash had brown ice mousse cake, Ed lemon biscuits with dulce de Lethe cheesecake. I had coconut creme brûlée, which was excellent and fairly light given how full I was. Tash's came with a candle in it for her birthday.

    We tipped them well as they had been great and was good end to birthday.
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  • Day 20

    Mainly a travel day

    August 15, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We were on 12.15 ferry from Nanaimo to Vancouver Horseshoe Bay today, reverse of Friday's trip. About 2.5 hour drive to ferry so we wanted early start. Decided hotel breakfast would not be conducive to this so coffee in room then off just before 8, intending to get breakfast when we saw somewhere for a brief pit stop.

    Drive was smooth and about hour and half in we got near port Alberni (where Blain was from) and a coffee shop and restaurant. Pulled in, got some toasted sandwiches and coffee and used loos then back on way. Got to ferry terminal about 11 and checked in, reservation seemed to get us to front of line. Loos and shops on other side of terminal - Ed counted 36 traffic lanes, ferries go to various places from here. Bought ice creams and sat in sun listening to a busker. He was good and Sam bought his cd.

    Then back to car to await boarding. We were first on and went right to front of ferry. Went up and joined queue for food, which hadn't opened yet, were first in line there too. Got burgers, fries and drinks, big portions again that we couldn't finish. Ed got the smaller lego model from shop - it was sane boat exactly as way over so stock was identical to then. Journey passed quickly, had walk around and looked at view. Less windy and water calmer this time outside. Couple commented on Tasha's nat schools jumper that they had been there too. Daughter at Lady Eleanor Holles it turned out. They had said to kids how can they ever top this holiday. Fair point, though NZ also good place to go!

    When we docked we were the very first car off and set sat nav for Times Square suites. Traffic was slow as we approached main bridge into downtown Vancouver, Lions Gate Bridge, built by Guinness family it transpired to connect their exclusive British township in west Vancouver to the main downtown. Moved slowly for about half hour as various roads merged together crossing bridge. Hotel was just other side of bridge, through Stanley Park. Found it though couldn't park at front, but parked round back in alley way where car park was for hotel, though needed key to access.

    We had two adjoining suites so funnily two kitchens and two lounges. Kids bedroom singles, ours a double. Ed had wanted to get Funko Pops from time we arrived so we looked up where sold them in Vancouver. Turned out shops walkable had closed so we decided to drive to Oakridge Mall. Took about half an hour, plenty of parking. Lots of shops, some designer. EB `games had a huge selection of Funko Pops and Ed had trouble deciding which to get. We had our first and last Tim Horton's a Canadian coffee shop institution, famed for donuts which were tasty but very sweet! Tash visited Lulu Lemon and got a rucksack while Ed and I went to Lego shop where he customised three lego men and we got a Lego hedgehog for Nanny and Grandpa. Was small but very cool, must visit London one.

    Got some stiff for dinner from Safeway as Ed had had an A and W burger along with Tim Horton's stuff. Got a maple leaf on wall at A and W for donating to their charity collection, so Ed name will be up there for some time, they hope to cover all the walls with them

    Navigated our way back to room ok, Ed did good job with sat nav.
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  • Day 21

    Grouse Mountain

    August 16, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    On the ferry over day before had booked three of us to do ziplining up Grouse Mountain, Vancouver's ski resort in winter. Was about 20 minute drive, though traffic was slow across bridge so took little longer. Had breakfast of bagels in room from Safeway night before. Collected our tickets and got Sam one to go up and caught next gondola. Was just one up one down, they were big, holding 90+ people and taking 5 minutes to do trip. Swung a bit at the two stantions and Sam didn't like it. Up top we went straight to zip line place and did waivers then got kit on. Was same design as Whistler, with bar attached to trolley you carried. Got same safety demo etc. Only difference was landing position, legs together not spread apart like before.

    Got a go pro so kids could film each other and their own rides. They went first down ride one, was quite slow and tame but good intro to the 5 lines in all. Two Aussie blokes in their 50s were doing it too, one hated heights and was very nervous on all the wires, but he did it. Second line was a steeper faster one and had to go down in the screaming starfish. Legs and arms spread like a starfish to slow you down. Screaming optional but good for other visitors on path below that we traveled across. This was more fun. At end they had bags on the springs for your legs to hit as you swung up. Hence why didn't need legs apart for landing.

    Third wire was over a lake, quite pretty but fairly slow again. You did roll back over lake at end making you think things had gone wrong before you rolled back into the landing area. Emily one of our guides had forgotten to start the kids go pro, so they walked back up and got to do the ride again. Steve the other Aussie guide had said on radio to her did you forget something as kids landed. Tash thought she had done something wrong with set up and that was why they had rolled back across lake!

    After this we had to take chairlift up to summit of mountain. Was very slow lift. Took 14 minutes but could have done it in third of time if it had been normal lift speed! It went quite high above the ground and the Aussie guy had his eyes closed the whole time. Last two wires at top started from higher platforms and went across the valley then back again. First was 360m or so, second a little longer. These were great lines. Good views down valley, high up and fast. Had to go in speeding bullet position to make sure you got all way across. Legs straight out in front and lay back as far as you could. Got some real speed up. I rocketed past Asian lady I was paired with (lines were tandem so two at once, all like this).

    Flies were a bit ferocious especially at the top here, though none of us seemed to end up with that many bites. Was all good fun. Went back down chairlift. Aussies walked! Steve talked about driving on right and Canadians speeding and love of the horn, which would be seen as much more aggressive in U.K and Oz. Lack of speed cameras over here very different to U.K and difference is noticeable on people's attitudes to speed.

    We bought photos and got the go pro video download, all came out well.

    Then went for a drink. Tash and I had talked about doing tandem paraglide, so we asked whether any available. 1.30, 2.45 and 5.15 had one spot each. After consultation with others I went for 1.30. It was now 12.45 so had to pretty much head up chairlift to meet at 1.15 up there. Tash was undecided so I left them all and went up. Got given a waiver form to fill in and waited for my pilot to come up chairlift. He arrived, Carlos from Venezuela. One oft other pilots was his brother and both had been taught to fly by their dad when 13 and 11. He spread our chute and I got harness on. Then clipped to him and chute. We had to walk forward straight to pull parachute up then walk harder and run to get us off ground. Important to keep running until fully off ground. So ended up doing comedy run in mid air, cartoon like.

    Was actually easy process and was easily up and floating. He described it as a magic carpet and I could see why. We swooped across chairlift and down the valley sides. It was very manoeuvrable and he turned it one way then the other. Took photos and videos with a Go pro and talked about what we could see. Mount Robson in distance was in USA about 100 km away. Lake below, Capilano Lake was man made and fed Vancouver with 30 per cent of water. He asked if I wanted to do roller coaster style moves and flipped the chute from one side to the other. Have to say made me feel little queasy, was all in the head rather than the stomach which I would have preferred. Then headed into land. Came in very fast which Carlos had said we would, had to hold my legs up, then he tugged in chute and brought us to dead stop. Put my legs down nd stood up - very smooth. Looked at video on tablet while he packed away then went back to gondola on mini bus.

    Followed the guys through staff entrance and up with them then all way up chairlift as had text from Tash to say she had signed up for 2.45 flight. Chatted with Carlos, he does summer in Vancouver then time off then December to March in Cape Town then to Columbia. Trying to save up for house and some land to build paragliding hostel and live there making some money from visitors and enjoying life. Asked about comeptitions. Three types, landing where have to land accurately on a coin, quite boring he said. Acrobatics which his brother did, can do loop the loops, 271 the consecutive record. Now do tricks with wires crossed for extra difficulty, Carlos does regatta style races, where have to go to different GPS points in fastest time. Competitors wear GPS trackers to show they have followed course to markers.

    Saw Tash at top. Ed and Sam had gone up chairlift with her. Sam hated it, was very steep above ground. Carlos took Tash too. We all went down take off strip to watch her. She was nervous asking lots of questions as her coping mechanism . Most worried about having to run at the start. Only needed to do that for about 5 metres at most and Carlos was pushing you on for most of the time.

    She took off smoothly. Sun was now out and she went much higher on thermals than I did and even swooped back across take off area, waving at us. She landed and we met her at the picnic tables near gondola. We asked about 5.15 slot but it had now gone as Ed wanted to do it, though he was quite uncertain and I think maybe a little relieved the slot had gone. Next time for him. We promised him we would go parasailing in Lanzarote, Sam promised she would do it with him!

    Went to see the bear talk of the two grizzly bears that live in a compound on mountain, koola and grinder. They came out for the snacks placed around, though we had seen them earlier from the chairlift. They were orphaned and couldn't live in the wild. Very cute and made us sure the one we had seen in Banff was a grizzly, looked just like these guys.

    Took some pics then went to get seat fir the world famous lumberjack show. Ed and Tash went off to get beaver tails - a fried flat donut thing with topping of your choice. Ed got melted oreo for him and maple syrup for me. They were very very sweet and sickly! Show was good fun, two competing lumberjacks at various challenges, sawing, axe throwing, chopping between legs, log rolling, wood carving and climbing up tree to ring bell using rope and spikes. Our team won. We saw guy heading home in our lift later, with his axe in a special big case. He was a 5 time world champion in the log climb apparently so no wonder he won that!

    A 'tourist' wandered on set at one point then secretly climbed the pole and did some stunts on top before falling off and zipwiring down. Part of show though not obvious at the start until he was climbing. Was fun show and script was tongue in cheek. Carved a stool from wood and gave it to youngest person there, 4 month old baby asleep despite chain sawing!

    Went back down gondola and Tash and I went to Safeway for food. Fell asleep early as was shattered with all fresh air and excitement. Last day tomorrow.
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  • Day 22

    Stanley Park and Aquarium

    August 17, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Repacked all our bags to ensure no liquid in carry on and souvenirs all safe. Checked out, left car at hotel and walked to aquarium, about 10 minutes away. Entered park and saw horse drawn guided tours. Next one left in 5 minutes so we went for it. Kids not that keen, but only an hour.

    Told us lots about history of park and Vancouver. Stopped at some totem poles for 10 minutes. Took photos and went to shop for model totems, almost missed bus back, Tash and I ran as last ones on. Saw little wetsuit girl statue, was supposed to be little mermaid like Copenhagen but they didn't want to be copied so did girl in wetsuit instead. Also,saw Vancouver cricket and rugby club. Bemusement from fellow tourists about cricket lasting 5 days and having tea break written into rules!

    After tour we headed to aquarium. Had green screen picture taken. I had green t shirt on randomly so appeared bodyless. Lady said she could fix but said no looked good as it was and bought a couple. Saw dolphin show first. Two dolphins, `Joanne a Pacific white sided and Chester a fake killer whale (so called as skulls when found were just like orcas). Quite unusual and rately seen, Chester found at Tofino on beach very sick. Neither can be released back to wild. Show was a training session rather than full on show, better that way, animals just working with trainers to develop understanding. Still did some jumps etc but not like a seaword style thing. Then went to 4d theatre. Was BBC film with Attenborough talking about sardine run when dolphins chase sardines up South Africa coast, followed by gannets sharks and whales. So many of them they split them off into bait balls and force them to surface where others prey on them. Gannets dive in in big flocks, get 10m with dive and swim another​ 10m chasing prey. Great spectacle water was sprayed on us, wind blown at us and diving birds simulated by spike in back from seat.

    Then hit sea lion show while having some lunch, huge portions again, should have shared. Show was training again so no jumping for balls. Steller sea lions rather than Californian we have seen before. Saw shop had model whales which excited Ed.

    Wandered around other exhibits, a good aquarium. Had tropical section with sloths in rainforest, spotted one but was obviously asleep. Saw penguins and sea lions get fed ice balls. Didn't go into ray discovery area as it had big queue. Could get hands on with rays here. We went to shop for model whales and a harry otter t shirt, then had slush puppies and walked back to hotel. Tash bought a large cuddly beluga whale and some orca slippers (was toss up between these and otter slippers)

    Repacjed bags a bit more. No room for the large beluga whale cuddly Tash had bought. Have to be carry on. Drove to airport. About 40 minutes. Filled up on way, slightly painfully as pump I was using kept cutting out so had to fill slowly. Returned car fairly easily, found trolley and went into terminal. Had done 2800km on the trip in total. Check in desks not yet open for BA, so had drinks and Oreos from yesterday Safeway. It opened about 5ish and we checked in, learnt was delayed about 45 minutes. Got through security. Sam managed to not set off alarm by putting her glasses through scanner rather than wearing. That will be the key from now on.

    Relaxed in lounge and kids went into duty free couple of times to spend last of Canadian dollars. Flight was delayed and boarding was slow as they tried to fix in flight entertainment system. Once on we learnt they hadn't fixed it and there would be none on the flight. Power plugs not working to charge iPads either. And two of menu choices not loaded on so not available. Not great service. Got some forms for compensation claim so we will see what we get. Ended up getting 6,000 Avios miles each, not much use. Flight was largely uneventful and we all slept a bit even Ed. Not too late landing, our bags, seemed to take ages to come. Met driver through customs, kids very excited he had sign with 'Smith Family' on it and we headed home.
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