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  • Day 17

    Wind and Rain on the Plains

    September 16, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    After a very relaxing and welcomed stay in a hotel, I was rested and ready for another long day of riding. My destination is Cow Creek campground in Pierre, South Dakota which is just shy of 400 miles of riding. I set of under cloudy skies with a forecast of sun at my destination. As I leave the city, the skies start to clear and the day becomes partly sunny, which is perfect riding weather. As I continue to ride, I see several animals along the way. I forget to mention that the day before it was 6 deer crossing the road in the middle of the day. Today I saw a bald eagle, some type of falcon, sea gulls!?, and pelicans!!! Yeah, pelicans and gulls in South Dakota! What the hell is happening?

    Anywho, as I cross into South Dakota around 2pm, the clouds on the horizon are getting dark. It looks like another day of mixed weather. While the clouds are dark, I don't see any rain in my path. I see some to the left and since to the right, but none in my road. Soon I pass under the storm clouds and it's sunny again. This happens twice more, but then it was finally time. The rain got right in my path and poured just long enough to soak my socks. My feet were condemned to the cold for the rest of the day.

    It was also very windy today. I was now only getting to 150 miles to reserve instead of 180. The wind was almost entirely responsible. As the day went on the wind got worse. Towards the end of the day I felt like a bobble head. My neck muscles are definitely getting a work out. At about 7, I pull into camp. I am right on the Missouri River, or lake Oahe. The campsite is a peninsula sticking out into the lake, and the sun is setting. Just after sunset I turn around and there is a big beautiful moon! It must be a full moon tonight. A perfect reward for a long day of wet, cold, bobble head riding.

    Pictures: clouds ahead. Imminent rain. At long last, camp. My tent. Sunset over the lake. Moon rise over the lake, 180 degrees from sunset. I guess I have to take selfies...
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  • Day 16

    Minnesota...

    September 15, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Just before leaving camp in Wisconsin, I ran into the camp supervisor Jim. He is in his 80s and has a dog with one eye who is weary of strangers at first, but loves head scratches as soon as he gets to know you. Typical dog. I asked Jim about things to see and food to eat in Wisconsin. He thought hard for a minute and then said, "well, I wish I had a recommendation but honestly I don't. You're just gonna see cars and trucks". A wise and honest statement. I got him to talk about himself for a minute and he started reminiscing about the days when 100 cows was a lot, he used to be a dairy farmer. I asked about the yellow crop I kept seeing and he said it was soy. Soy and corn have replaced wheat and hay. "A lot has changed in my day, lots of electronics", he said. Another strikingly accurate statement. Things have changed tremendously in his lifetime, even for a farmer.

    I packed up and got on the road again. My destination was unknown, but I wanted to pass through the twin cities in Minnesota. As I got close to St. Paul, I started to see Saturn clouds off in the distance. After checking the weather I saw that this storm was substantial, and should be avoided. It was going to rain hard for the rest of the day, with thunderstorms. I quickly found a hotel room and high tailed it for Bloomington. I raced the storm front to the city, the clouds coming from the West, I was coming from the east. We arrived at my hotel simultaneously. My timing this trip has been great so far. I showered up, did some laundry in the sink, and then laid out my tent to dry out. I think I got my monies worth right there. Then I took a dip in the hot tub, and hoped on a shuttle to the mall of America. Woa, that thing is a monstrosity. I had some grub, and caught the movie sausage party, after some exploring. What a huge place. I think I saw about 5% of the mall after 2 hours of walking around. After the movie I returned to the hotel and hit the sack, ready for another day of driving.

    Pictures: a carving in front of a cool structure used to stack wood pulp back in the day. The base of the stacker. A two story transformer Lego figure in the mall of America.
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  • Day 15

    Wisconsin, Is There Any Cheese Here?!

    September 14, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    My campsite in Hiawatha National Forest was listed as dispersed camping (which means free and unsupervised) but it actually had a picnic table and a fire pit. After setting up camp, I made dinner and then went in search of some wood. I wasn't expecting to collect much dry wood as it was raining that day, but it was worth a try. After spending 10 minutes rummaging around I actually found a few dry branches. One in particular was extra dry, and I thought to myself, this is going to be the one that gets the fire going. A few pieces of birch bark were laying in the ground and that was the start to my fire. What a great end to a long ride. I dried of my boots and warmed up to my bones. I got the fire going well enough to catch a few logs on fire which had been left by previous campers. I even burned the damp stuff. After all but the logs were gone, I called it a night and slept like a rock.

    The morning arrived soon enough, and it was time to get my phone charged. I feel like the bike is not charging my phone as well as it had two days prior because the battery would increase in state of charge even while I had Google maps running. Now I had to leave the phone off to charge, and it was a slow charge at that. The solar charger which I had brought has a fairly large battery which I am still getting used to. Unfortunately the battery doesn't have enough charge to charge my phone.

    My next destination is somewhere in Wisconsin. I decide to ride to the border of Michigan and Wisconsin along lake Michigan, stop there for lunch and then decide on a camp spot. I cross a time zone expecting some sort of sign to mark my accomplishment, but no such sign was there to acknowledge me. I decide to leave my watch on Eastern time (actually it's so complicated that I don't know how to change the time) and my bike's clock will show the current time.

    After lunch I settle on Chippewa campground in Chequamegon National Forest. I charge my phone as much as I can at lunch, and then hit the road, arriving at my campsite about an hour before sunset. I'm right next to a lake, and the fee for the night is only 7 bucks with my parks pass (only 14 without a pass). Now that's a price I'm willing to pay for a place to sleep for one night. There is a fire pit, but I feel like getting to bed early, so I hit the sac.

    Still no cheese in Wisconsin. Just farmland,.... Mostly soy...

    Pictures: All three are at the campsite.
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  • Day 14

    Chasing The Sun

    September 13, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    As I leave Sturgeon Bay Provincial Park I can see the sun start to rise in my mirrors. It is a little chilly out so I'm excited to feel the warmth of the sun when it's fully up. As I continue to ride, I realize that warm morning sun never arrived. I know I'm traveling west, but not fast enough to make time slow that much. I realize some clouds have rolled in and there probably won't be any sun this morning. Oh well, I kept riding into the horizon looking forward to possibly a break in the clouds, but the skies only got darker. It's almost time for a break and it's close to 11.

    Funny thing about roads in this part of Canada is that there are still billboards everywhere. Kind of like the ones you'd see for Watercountry in NH, but the signs are for KFC or other equivalent restaurants, and a few other attractions. They also start about 100km away so that the anticipation builds. I see one for a Tim Hortons. I then see clouds up ahead that are definitely holding a bunch of water, so that Tim Hortons sounds pretty good in the next 15km. The rain is now imminent, and the Tim Hortons is only 3km ahead. It begins to rain, and the Tim Hortons is just around the corner!!! It starts to rain harder and I see the Tim Hortons and park, put the cover on and go inside. Phew, I order a breakfast sandwich and a donut. If it's going to be cold and wet out, I might as well consume some calories so I can try and stay warm.

    Inside, I check the weather and investigate possible destinations. I think about a hotel and watching a movie in Sault Ste Marie, or going to a campsite several hours further away in Michigan. I keep checking the weather. Looks like it will be cloudy for the rest of the day, but not rainy. I decided to man up and ride all day, hopefully drying off from conduction in the air rather than the highly preferred radiation from the sun.

    Soon I am across the border and back in the states. I cross a very large bridge which shows me views of lake Superior to my right, and Huron to my left. While I am drying off, I'm also losing heat. While I could put more clothes on, I decided that getting some hot soup and a nice salad (fresh vegetables situation isn't great on the road) was a better idea. Lunch next to the entrance of some huge locks was great. It also felt good to be back in the US. Some of the differences in the scenery are subtle like the types of billboards, and others are obvious like the units on speed limit signs, then there's the whole border crossing thing.

    As I approach my campsite for the night, I am ready to get off the bike. Sitting in one position all day does not do wonders to your back. The sun does start to come out though so my spirit was definitely lifted. I am now in Hiawatha National Forest and the roads are numbered. I also realize that the charge on my phone has been steadily dropping all day. I check the roads and turns I have to make in case my phone dies. My phone shut off shortly after. I am two roads away. My next road is 33Rd. However when I get to the mileage of where my turn is, the street sign does not read 33Rd! It starts with a 4XX XX. I turn my phone back on as it now had a 4% charge. I quickly check and I am in fact at 33Rd. I look at the road sign again and there is a prefix before the 33, it reads 442 33Rd. The road is dirt and slightly damp from the earlier rain. I test it out and the bike handles just as well if not better than it did on Karl and Mary's road a few days prior. I surge ahead and I finally come to the campsite.

    The sun is still up! About 420 miles on the day and it was all in the relative light of the day. Today as I chased the sun out of the clouds and rain, I also came as close to catching it as I've ever come,... in a vehicle I am operating (not a plane or a train).

    The only picture I was inspired to take when my phone still had a charge and it wasn't raining is of the bridge at the border.
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  • Day 14

    Sturgeon Bay Provincial Park

    September 13, 2016 in Canada ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    I arrive at Sturgeon Bay just before 6 and no one is manning the office. I walk up to the self serve kiosk and see that it's again $45 for one night! Holy crap. Well, I've only got 15 Canadian dollars and I'm planning on getting an early start the next morning. How early you ask? Earlier than the office opens. Sorry Canada, but that's too expensive for a small patch of ground for one night. I get to bed around 9 and I'm up at 5, and on the road by 6:30. It's time to get out of Canada before they know what hit em.

    Pictures: As you can see I don't take up much space. Sunset over the bay. Interesting rock and a curved tree.
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  • Day 13

    Algonquin Provincial Park

    September 12, 2016 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Moose! Well one moose, but almost immediately upon entering the park there is a moose about a hundred yards off the road munching down on some swamp veggies. The moose was conveniently located just after a sign that said "be prepared to stop". After checking out the moose, I made my way towards my campsite. I stayed at the lake of two rivers. Upon check in another gentleman is also about to get a site and suggests we split the site for the night (campsites in Canada are typically $45 a night! Even with the exchange that is pretty steep). I agree and we make fast friends. Wally has a truck which I can keep my food in for the night as there was a bear spotted in the area. We talk around a campfire for a couple hours and I get a tip on a short hike for the next day. Good thing we made a fire cause it got cold that night. 6C which is about 42F; it felt like it dipped into the 30s.

    The next morning, my judge of character is good and Wally hasn't made off with my food or any of my gear. After I shower and warm up, I head for the hike Wally recommended. It was a pretty good view of the area, but honestly I wasn't impressed. A beautiful area, but it's got nothing on NE. After the hike, I make my way out of the park and head west towards Michigan. It's a beautiful day, and the ride was nice. Next stop is Sturgeon Bay Provincial Park.

    Pictures: Moose, not easy to see but it's there. The lake in my campsite in the morning. Vista from the hike. Nicely spaced trees near the vista.
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  • Day 11

    Hello Canada!

    September 10, 2016 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    My last night in the Saranac lakes was stellar. Beautiful stars and no rain. The morning came quickly, with an alarm I had set the night before. I'm up to see a gorgeous sunrise complete with the perfect amount of cloud cover to make classic pinks and oranges. You'll see it in the picture. After breakfast and a quick break down of camp, I'm on the water just before 8, which might be a record for me. I had scheduled my ride from the rental shop (I took out from lower Saranac and launched from flower lake) to pick me up at 11. But I'm now thinking that if I paddle straight to the launch, I'll be there by 9. My 2 hour paddle estimate was conservative, as well as my wake up time, which put me 2 hours ahead of schedule. I explored for an hour but called in the calvary for a 10 am pick up instead of 11. The cell reception on lower Saranac is actually really good for future reference. I used the extra hour to arrive at my next destination that much earlier.

    My plan was to stop by Jonathan, Kimberly, and Matteo's house to say hello since I hadn't seen them in about 4 years. Their house was also right along my route on my way to Algonquin provincial park. When I arrived at their house it was just after 2, and I had a 3.5 hour drive left. It was shaping up to be a long day. I went inside and it was great to see Jonathan and Kimberly again. We started catching up and then the rain started to come. After a few minutes they offered me a place to stay for the night, which I gladly accepted as the weather only worsened.

    After deciding to stay it was time for a beer and some of Jonathan's famous hot sauce! Kimberly made a delicious chili for dinner and we had an apple crisp that her sister had made for dessert. I was glad they had me over! The food was delicious and it seemed like only a few days had passed since Aruba where we met at Matteo and Kristin's wedding. Just before dinner, their 2 year old son Matteo awoke from his nap. At first he was really shy, probably just like I was when I was his age (I still am pretty shy but I'm getting better) but soon enough he started playing with his toys and being himself again. What smart and cute kid.

    After dark, there were intense thunderstorms and a tornado warning! Again, I was really glad I got to spend the night. Eventually the power went out, but came back on a few minutes later. Jonathan and I finished the night with an episode of the Simpsons. Classic bedtime programming.

    The morning brought bacon, with pancakes and a huge omelette. These two know how to make food. I also got to try some picked beets. Delicious. After breakfast it was operation "hot tub never freeze". Jonathan and Kimberly's hot tub needed some insulation underneath it to prevent a hose from freezing and causing hot tub trouble. I lent a hand and got to hang out for the morning and part of the afternoon. After inserting two sheets of foam insulation under the tub, we had the best BLTs in the world. Well second best as I'm told the bread wasn't quite right. You'll have to visit if you want to know the secret.

    After lunch I said my goodbyes, and I felt so lucky to have such awesome people in my life. Thanks again for putting me up for the night, and all the delicious food!

    Next stop is Algonquin provincial park.

    Pictures: Sunrise from partridge island in lower Saranac. My relatively short paddle to end the paddling trip. Looking into ampersand bay, the morning brought glassy water.
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  • Day 10

    The Elusive Saranac Lakes

    September 9, 2016 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    After departing Karl and Mary's, I gassed up at 210 miles on one tank. I put 4.45 gallons in the tank, so my conservative estimate for one tank will be 200 miles. If I am a little more conscious of the throttle and coasting down hills, I think I can get my range up to 250 with my extra half gallon on the back.

    The ride to the Saranacs brought me across lake Champlain and out of new England. Farewell.

    A short ferry ride across the massive lake and that shaves off about an hour and a half of driving time. The sky is overcast and scattered thunderstorms are forecast for the afternoon. After the lake crossing I stopped at a diner to grab a quick breakfast and look at my options for the day if it were to start storming. In the diner I looked at going to Ausable canyon, and camping at a KOA (canyon sounds fun but there is a steep admission fee to look at natural features, and I turned my nose up at the thought of a KOA so early in the ride. I'll save the stay in one of those places for when I get desperate. I'm a camping snob). The other option was to camp near White face and hike to the top. I was leaning toward doing that if the weather wasn't going to be good on the Saranacs. I decided to give the boat rental place on flower lake a call before I made any rash decisions. Luckily they checked the weather and it sounded like I had time to beat the rain onto the water. I leave the diner and head straight for the rental shop.

    I parked in the lot near the rental place, covered the bike and got out on the water by 1:30. Then I immediately had to portage around a dam. Not the easiest start to a paddle. I finally got to the other side of the dam and was really on the water by 2:30. On my way to the campsite, it drizzled on and off until I was about 40 minutes from my planned camp which was first come first served. At that point the skies opened up and it started to pour. In anticipation of the downpour, I rented a kayak and stowed my great in the compartments of the kayak safe from the rain. Then I came to a lean-to where I had planned on staying, but I saw and smelled a campfire. The lean to was taken by a huge group of people with fishing boats. There were about 5 boats and even more tents surrounding the lean to. At that point I back tracked a few hundred yards to a regular site. Soon after the rain stopped and I set up camp. Lentil soup is on the menu for the next two nights. Good thing it's delicious. Every once in a while I get a chunk of garlic. It rehydrated perfectly. Shortly after dark I pack it in as clouds fill the night sky obstructing my view of the stars.

    I wake up from my first night alone in the woods. I never thought about how creepy it might be. I have a feeling that tonight will be more relaxed. The camp site that I wake up in is about 30 minutes from lower Saranac lake. First I make a quick stop to reserve a campsite for the night. I chose a site that is very close to the entrance into lower Saranac. That way I can set up camp, and let some clothes dry while I paddle around. This campsite is an island with really nice flat spots and plenty of pine needles to make the ground softer. I quickly set up camp and then head for middle Saranac. I left my new home around noon and plan to be back by 6. I navigate out of the southern portion of lower Saranac into Saranac river. A manual lock was waiting for me between the two beautiful lakes. The water was in the up position, so I closed the upper gates and then opened the lower gates. The water emptied through the lower gate until the water levels were equal on the lower side. The doors are free to open and I pull my kayak into the lock, close the doors behind me, shut the lower gates and opened the upper gates. The water is now at the upper level, the doors are free to open and I hop back into my yak. After a nice ride up the meandering Saranac river, I arrive at the middle Saranac. I've wanted to see this lake ever since the first year of the canoe trip that a bunch of friends and I started years back. The lake didn't disappoint. I stop on an island and filter some water while I take a small breather.

    The time is now 3:30 and I'm headed back to camp. On my way into Saranac river I hear a helicopter behind me. I pay no attention but the sound gets closer and closer. As I turn around there are two large military helicopters being flown low over the lake. One of the choppers flies directly overhead and is loud and amazing. I can only imagine the wonderful view those guys had from above. Through the locks again and back to camp I arrive promptly at 5, which was my high bar for returning. I did have the wind and current at my back which made paddling a breeze.

    I've just finished the second night of lentil soup, and it's still really good. The sun went down over a nearby peak to my west. I think it is boot bay mountain.

    As I sign of for the night I get ready for a clear sky and hopefully some more stars. Tomorrow brings a long day starting with what I think will be a two hour paddle, followed by a ride across the border into Canada. Gotta get some rest.

    Pictures: The bike on the ferry. A northern Forest canoe trail marker near the flower lake launch. A look back just before a second portage on the first day on the water. Day 2 on the lakes and a really big mushroom catches my attention on the island in middle Saranac. The view on the way back to lower Saranac. The last photo is a map of my paddling today and yesterday. The small stones are places I stopped. The first two (from upper right to lower left) are sleeping spots. The third was where I stopped to fill up on water and take a siesta.
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  • Day 9

    Onwards to Central Vermont

    September 8, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    In the morning, Bob made some eggs, shredded root vegetables, and spinach and arugula salad. Good way to start the day, thanks Bob! Then I lent Anderson a hand with leak testing the plumbing we had installed the day before. After fixing a few leaks, the pump primed and pressurized the lines. The water supply system was working and the wiring mostly done. Next step I'm bummed to miss is the spray foam, cooool. I know it doesn't take much.

    After a good mornings worth of work it was time for lunch! Kate made puffed pastry stuffed with sauteed onions and red pepper.... Yeah and she made the pastry from scratch! Shortly after lunch I helped Lane and Bob put up some flashing on the other house that was being worked on. An intense finger work out.

    Then it was time to leave some more wonderful people behind. I'm constantly asking myself if this is the right choice. Despite the difficulty I'm still ready to find out via trial, and hopefully not error.

    The next stop put me in Plainfield VT, with Karl and Mary! It was also a good time to test my mileage capacity. On the way to Plainfield I ran out of gas in my main fuel tank, and switched to the tank reserve. The reserve I think is about a half gallon, which should get me close to 25 miles. I hit the reserve fuel at 184 miles, which is good but I was hoping for closer to 200 miles. After switching to the reserve, I arrived at the Bissex homestead at about 200 miles on the entire tank.

    Every stop I've made along the way has been fantastic with different settings and small groups of friends. This visit was no different. Upon arrival, after going through the end of the day routine, I joined Mary Judy and Karl to dismantle and prepare basil for some delicious pesto that covered the pasta dinner. Fresh tomatoes, carrots, and some warmed bread on the side and that makes a damn fine meal.

    After dinner Karl and Mary and I went outside to look at an amazing sky. The stars were bright despite the moon, and we saw several shooting stars. The most I've seen this summer. Post star gazing I found myself in a hot tub. A great way to begin a really long time riding a motorcycle. I think I'll book end the trip with a hot tub at the other end.

    The pictures below are as follows: The view out of the back yard just before I left. The sunset the night before. An extremely large batch of primo pesto for pasta. A presto action shot!
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  • Day 7

    VT Friends and Tiny Houses

    September 6, 2016 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After checking out Josh's sweet new workshop, which is in a barn across his driveway, we had lunch and I said goodbye to Josh and Sarah. Two of the coolest people I know, and hopefully I will see again soon. Then I hit the road again for another short ride, only about two hours into southern Vermont. A great new England state which is home to fantastic views, delicious farms, and eccentric people who do wonderful things. I found my way to the Sherwood Forest, where Anderson, Kate and Bob live. This wonderful group of people live in an amazing house and build even cooler tiny houses. If you're ever thinking of living in one, definitely get in touch with these guys. I only planned on staying the night, but Anderson convinced me to hang out and do some work with them. The day flew by and I look forward to getting my hands dirty again tomorrow. Tiny houses are starting to become more and more appealing to me both for a place to live, and possibly a future career as a builder.

    Anderson, Kate, and Bob are fantastic hosts, and I hope I can repay them with a few hours of work on the tiny houses. Lane and Brian are also great company.

    The attached pictures are of the two tiny houses currently under construction. Then there is Anderson in front of his house getting ready for a conference call.
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