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A 16-day adventure by The 3 musketeers Read more
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  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    21
    Day 5

    Day 3 . 10k Viana do castelo to Afife

    July 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    I knew today would be a hot day when the Italians in the albergue insisted on the girls taking their hydration powder and were very kind to give me some drugs for my shoulder pain. The Italians have good stuff within half an hour of taking their pain killers my shoulder was ready for my pack even with the extras of April's sleeping bag trail runners and Megan's sliders. After a group discussion we decided to head back to the coastal route as we missed the sea breeze the flat surface and our fellow pilgrims. After a crazy fast car ride to the bus stop by the very kind albergue owner Fernanda we managed to communicate effectively to get 3 tickets at €2.75 each (no child discount for my very tall 11 year old) we were on our way at 9am back to the blissful coast of Portugal. The coach dropped us to the bus station and with our navigator April holding google maps and all of us carrying everything in a backpack on our backs we were finally at the coast again enjoying the cool breeze from the sea. We decided after two previous long days to keep it short. After around 3k of boardwalk and a quick dip in the sea we bumped into Angelo and Luca two fellow pilgrims who seemed a bit lost. I showed them my John Brierley Camino bible and with a smile they were on their way. 10k on sweat dripping down my back Megans red face looking at me with the look of im done. The water bladder is empty and not a sign of a water fountain I decided it's time to call it a day. I spotted a white surf school van with a middle aged man his two young children and dog heading uphill to the nearest village. Surely a man his kids and a dog is a safe bet for a lift? I eagerly flag him down and explain our predicament. He points to the back of his van with no seats just two surf boards and some shopping bags and says I've no seats. We don't need seats I say with a big smile and with that we jump in. As we're driving and sitting on the cold van floor I explain to Carlos that we haven't booked accommodation for tonight and without hesitation he's on his phone ringing around but unfortunately it's not looking good. He seems stressed and worried for us Im thinking maybe i shud be too but the camino does provide. After a bumpy 5 mins uphill Carlos pulls into a tavern in the rural village of Afife were he speaks to the tavern owner and within a few mins we have room up above the tavern for €40 for the night. Carlos oblivous to his kids and dog and his van he orders himself a beer. This is my chance to repay his kindness I quickly throw €5 at the bar tender insisting on paying for his drink he argues but allows me too. He downs his drink and is on his way. The afternoon was happily spent with the girls swimming in the sea and well me trying my best to swim. We built up an appetite so a meal of grilled chicken wings ribs chips and a €1.60 glass of declious red wine went down a treat. Best day so far.Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    2211
    Day 5

    Day 2 Barcelos to Casa fernanda 20k

    July 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Day 2 was a hard day as it was a Sunday their was very little places open therefore we had to walk long distances without stops and we did not meet one other pilgrim along the way we did meet alot of dogs goats lizards and even a snake. We stopped for a very late lunch in restaurant 2000 and my limited portuguese seen a beer put in front of me instead of some wine but it was ice cold and very much welcomed. Once we reached the very popular casa fernanda we soon realised why this is such a popular albergue the kindness and welcome was out of this world. The owner even took us back to the bus station to reach the coastal route again. Sore tired and aching we are ready for day 3.Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    Day 6

    Day 4. 14k Afife to Caminha by April

    July 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today is wrote by April age 11.
    Today we started the day slightly tired from the previous night being quite noisy. We were excited only doing 14k. We listened to music and skipped along by the beach we spotted a man in the distance as we came closer he started talking to us and showing us the way he was from kerry in Ireland!! He showed us the way threw a forest. there was big trees which made lovely shaded spots. We also saw lots of lizards. When we got out of the forest we were back on the breezy boardwalk right beside the beach
    We continued walking my mam told me that we might be going up a big hill with a cross on the top. We soon saw a huge mountain with a cross at the top we got so scared we were climbing. that but we soon realised we weren't we followed the path but then my mam sent us in the wrong direction and we had too walk 1k back in the other distance we made it back on the path. then we made it to a town what a relief there was a swing we sat on for a few minutes then we went into a shop and bought a bracelet and she told us that there's a nice restaurant down the road. We went to it and we got salmon and other fish to share it was delicious we then continued are walk feeling a bit more energised we came across a German woman who had already walked 15k that morning and was looking very tired we walked with her for a bit longer then came across two men one was German and one was Italian we walked with them for a while till we stopped too look at the horses and they continued on. While the German woman stayed with us we cane across a field with a goat and i was in shock as the german woman started to bahhh like a sheep at the goats! we soon made it too a forest when two Italian woman followed along with us after a while we made it too a big hill we went up it then we made it too our hostel we got a coke and had a shower now I'm ready to relax. Photos taken by April    Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    Day 7

    Day 5. 22k Caminha to Viladesuso Oia

    July 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This is Megan here. We started the day if at 7:00am for breakfast and soon we left the hostel at 8 and headed to the port were we got on a speedboat and we headed to Spain at full speed which my mam found very scary and she left everyone know by hysterically screaming all the way to Spain. With the early start we were making great time and stopped for chicken wings for lunch and my mam devoured a beer. Along the way we bumped into our Norwegian friend again. Soon we reached the albergue which was very busy but luckily I booked ahead so we got our beds, we soon met our room mates from South Korea who told us that they snore extremely loudly even through ear plugs we would be able to hear them. We then went for dinner at a lovely restaurant were we enjoyed mussels croccets and prawns which were all lovely. My mam drank 2 glasses of wine while decapitating our prawns. We then went back to the albergue were we hoped to get at least some sleep before our early start tomorrow.Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    Day 9

    Day 6. 42.3 k Oia to Vigo

    July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Was far too tired to post last night but as usual I'm awake with the birds so I'm enjoying the peace and writing now. Left our modern Alburge (chosen by Megan we are taking turns picking accomadtion) at dusk yes morning after been woken by the Italians having a breakfast party at 5.30am and after chatting over coffee with a young German girl who was kept awake by the group of 10 Italians typing loudly followed by beeps all night on their phones. . She told me "I'm so angry with them" With our fleeces pulled up to our chins and enjoying the welcome cold air we were on our way. After 5k of walking we stopped along the coast a beautiful camp site. Its our last stop before Bioano. The girls devoured a breakfast of warm ham and cheese crosssistants coffee and orange juice. Our camino passports are stamped and we are back on the way. The walk is along a busy road with lots of cyclists going at super fast speed past us. We walk one behind the other singing loudly to Taylor swift shake it of which im playing loudly over the vroom of car sounds. We try to encourage Megan to join in. April is complaining of her feet this morning and we to stop a few times to let them breath. A very kind family from Spain the niece travelling with her aunt and uncle (see photos) stop to offer tape plasters and everything they have. We continued to walk along side them and soon discover Maria's uncle has done 16 caminos this his 17th and he's still smiling as he tells us in his very limited Spainsh which is translated to English by Maria. We eventually stop and have refreshments with them and a much needed break. This is the first time we are asked why are we doing the camino. Most people do the camino to heal from somthing take time out get over a death. April's says I like to walk my dog I thought it wud be fun and Megan says i wanted to do it after watching the movie "The way" as for me i explain briefly about my separation and needing some respite I'm conscious of the girls listening so say very little. The girls have their first refreshing ice cream of the day. By 11am 7k under our belt we are back on track. April is tried but the promise of a swim in the sea keeps her going. We reach Bioana sweaty and tired I'm really missing my hat that I left behind in Caminha. The girls are quickly stripped and swimming in the sea. Im in too just up to my knees the water is cool and invigorating and we are surrounded by fish and as the girls point out on a number of occasions lots of top less spainsh ladies. Im asked why by April.
    Using hand gestures and Megan's school spainish we chat to some locals who recommend a local restaurant for lunch. We are excited to try some paella now were in Spain. After a long lunch surrounded by locals we are back on the Camino. Its hot now too hot. April is tired the blister between her toes is stinging her now so after 2 hours of walk we stop at a local Chiringuito girls have their 3rd ice cream I have an espresso. We are served by a young girl who tells us she's studying to be a primary teacher. She has excellent English and great empathy. She declares to the girls saying "You are very strong". I inspect April's foot the blister is now infected it has burst and is oozing. After 26k I decided the rest of journey to Vigo will be done by taxi she needs to rest for the evening. The very kind isabella phones us a taxi. After a quick 30 min taxi ride (April sleeps the whole way) we arrive to a not so welcoming hotel in Vigo. We are on the 4th floor. Megan bravely puts her fear of elevators aside. I hold her hand tightly promising her we won't get stuck and saying "We can't do the stairs not today". To my dismay our room doesnt have a bath. Leaving April and Megan to relax in the hotel room I quickly rush to the pharmacy next door were I leave with a bag of creams dressings and of course more compeed plasters. I treat April's wound and she tells me she's grateful by a kiss on the cheek and the words I love you. I probe Megan about her feet she proudly tells me she has no blisters and feels great in her words she's says "This camino isn't affecting me at all". I laugh to myself and try to ignore my own huge blister on my toe which gives the girls great entertainment in seeing a blister so big but for some reason it's not to sore but then again it hasn't popped. It's 9pm and I'm our walking again to collect some pizza in a nearby pizzeria asking myself Why are tennagers always hungry? By 10pm we are all asleep and as the girls divulged to me yesterday I'm sure I'm snoring loudly again. Since when did this happen. I'm blaming the tiredness    Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    Day 9

    Day 7. 16.9k Vigo to Estrada

    July 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I was awoke by Megan's alarm at 7.30am still feeling sleepy and tired I dragged myself up. A few steps away in a cafe famous for its churrzos I felt much better after two strong epsresso. Despite the banter between the owner and me telling me "You come to Spain with no Spainsh. You ask me for Orange. No good. I gave as good as I got and entertained the other customers all enjoying the early morning fun. After 10 churzzos dipped in a cup of chocolate we bravely asked for more. Of course he made fun of this but with hand gestures of walking movements and trying to explain how we would walk it of we got more. It makes it more funny coming from such a big man himself Mr. Antonio. Full to the bream with churrzos and coffee we march on over the bridge out of Vigo rain starting with a drizzle soon becoming heavy. Of course we have no rain coats its July its Spain. Megans voice in my ear telling me you said it wudnt rain soon reminded me that taking out our ponchos was a bad idea. Another reason for her to be grateful i tell myself as i smile at her saying yes Megan thats what i thought i was wrong. Was I really this bad when I was 14 i soon feel bad for my own mother as i think back. I plan out our route to stop at a nearby supermarket to purchase some bin liners. Mine and April's bags are getting wet really wet and as everything we took is on our backs I begin to worry. Megan is the lucky one hers comes with a rain cover and as she tells me it's got a multiple usage to store her large bag of crisps and other snacks. Once again I'm reminded of how a teenager is always hungry. We stop at the supermarket I purchase some blue bin liners which I quickly tear in half carefully placing around our bags. Not long after our supermarket stop we come across two men one old one young. I reckon early 60s and maybe late 30s. I wonder are they caminons or tourists. It's hard to know. One older man has nothing but a hat the younger man has a small very small backpack. We soon rush up behind them as we see them ask for directions and decide to chance our luck. They are caminos they had their bags sent on to their next destination. They are from Scotland Father and son on a bounding adventure.. The son is a pe teacher in a school in Moscow the father proudly tells us. They are football fans like the girls so the connection is real and the journey passes quickly. Two hours on and April catches my eye I instantly know she needs to rest we have done 12k already im reminded she's only 11. You need a rest I insist. We say our goodbyes to our fellow caminos and sit down on the sidewalk. The roll of plastic bin liners protecting us from the now very heavy rain showers reminding us of home. My mind wanders to the conversation with my mam the previous night concerned about the heat wave in Spain some quick photos snaps sent to her on WhatsApp reassure her their is no heatwave here in fact the opposite. After a long rest we stop for lunch once again we struggle with our limited spainish..By 4pm rain dripping of our faces my trail runners squeaking with every step we enter the Alburge. "Passports pls" Tinto the owner announced towels pls I say back. Is this young handsome spainish man blind to the water dripping from us or just another non observant man. Not longer after i realise how grateful I am for a hot shower and clean clothes. By 5pm I'm asleep on the top bunk in a 10 bedroom drom with a clean crisp sheet over me. My legs are aching now, my hip is aching too.. I awake an hour later to the crinkle of a pligrim searching in a plastic bag in the bed below me. I Need coffee..After a black stale coffee I drag myself to the the kitchen. We take our ingredients from the fridge salmon potatoes and broccoli purchased earlier from the supermarket 200 meters away. The girls fry the salmon as I chop the broccoli. It's nice to cook together. I sip on my Rojra wine sharing it with our roommate Anna from Germany. I'm still full from lunch but I enjoy the meal. After an evening of small talk with Anna and some badly needed laundry done by 9pm I'm a nurse again to April's now healing blister and fast asleep by 10pm. I really hope we have no snorers tonight. I need to sleep I need to stay asleep and rest for another day of walking, thinking reflecting and accepting what the Camino puts in front of us. Hopefully some Sunshine. First photo taken on a building leaving Vigo 2nd is behind the counter in Bonillia best churrios in Vigo. April brushing Megan's hair in the albergue. Megans rain cover on her bag. Spainish ladies lucky to have umbrellas last photo is the albergue we stayed last nightRead more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    Day 11

    Day 8. 18k Estrada to Pontevedra

    July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    April here we woke up and decided to have breakfast with the german woman as it would probably be are last time seeing her she gave my mam her phone number as we ate toast and cereal and then we went on to walk it was drizzling a little bit in the morning. We met lots of people along the way. We finally reached are hostel with two young priests saying the rosary with their super large rosary beads as we were tired and hungry we got some food then went into are room that was these bunk beds that were nice megan booked it because she said she loves booking them so much. She looks for hours and hours every day. Megan went to the bathroom so I had a plan I jumper in her bed and closed the curtain she opened the curtain to get in and I scared her she screamed so loud I think everyone heard her.
    Megan here we then went to the supermarket where we got our food. After that we went to to the shops and burger King me and April were delighted to finally have some unhealthy greasy food after eating fish every other day. On the streets there was music and people singing and dancing. When we got back to the hotel we noticed we had two roomates from Poland. After the long day we were all wrecked and we went to sleep.
    Stephanie here
    We started our walk with a light drizzle of rain walking with a young girl from Germany who told me stories about her time volunteering in Peru. We parted ways 7k on at a coffee shop were we decided it was time to rest. Part of this trail is through a forest as we walked I heard someone chanting we soon came upon two Priests from Poland who were saying the Rosary in Polish. I cudnt stop looking at their Rosary beads I've never seen beads so large. We prayed with them as we walked and then spoke to them afterwards. When we arrived in the modern albergue (only open a year) we met our priest friends again. After a quick nap some laundry we explored pontevedra. The girls were delighted to see their was a burger King and we ordered chicken royals (long chicken in Spain) double cheese burgers mountains of chips and coke zero.Afterwards we were entertained by some traditional spainish music along the street. The next morning at breakfast we sat with the priests who shared some delicious cheese with us. Back to the room to prepare for our next walk with perfect weather forecast for the rest of the time. Weather is for Sunshine but not too hot I smile thinking of the rain in Ireland and feel grateful for the good weather we have here. Tomorrow we start the spiritual route    Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    Day 11

    Day 9. 26km

    July 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Megan here. We started the day in Pontrevedra. We had a late start at 10 and we left our albergue and headed for the start of the spiritual route. We spotted a small bakery were we got some pastrys and treats and too our surprise they were awful, my mams pastry tasted like dog food so she gave it to the Italians next to us who politely ate some of it. We then continued our walk we walked for about 2 hours and by then we had all had enough but we still had another 12km left. It wasn't an easy day by any means it was almost all uphill. At the top of the biggest hill we spotted an American women asleep on a bench she spotted us and in her attempt to jump up she very nearly fell of the bench. She told us how she would sleep there on the bench if she hadn't booked a hotel up ahead, and all the hills were far to much for her. Eventually after many hours we reached our shared Lodge were the owners had no English, so me the only person with any Spanish tried to explain to them what we wanted. We then visited the monasterie and attended mass in the evening. We had a very early night after all the walking.
    Stephanie here. Myself and April are too tired to write. My knee is sore my feet are sore and I need to sleep and im dehydrated. April said her legs are in bits she can't walk anymore. Megan said the camino doesn't effect her    Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    1
    Day 12

    Day 10 26k Armentria to Vilanova

    July 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Another long day but it was mostly flat which is a big change from the hills yesterday. We had a lovely breakfast with the ladies from Cape Town. An emotional breakfast were we discovered one of the lovely ladies daughter passed away last September from a shark attack in shallow water at a very young age of 38. It took me the whole day to process this when swimming in the ocean this afternoon I found myself trying to imagine how somone could possibly get over this but having a piece of her daughter in the form of her beautiful 2 year old granddaughter must ease her pain. They had a candle lit in her memory at breakfast..I'm not writing anymore as I want to dedicate this post to Kiki. Her nickname. I have tears in my eyes writing this and I had tears down my cheeks when the unimaginable story was told to me over coffee and toast at 8am on the camino portuguese. I left the toast but drank the coffee. We were meant to meet these beautiful ladies my only wish is I had more time to spend with them.Read more

  • The 3 musketeersCamino Portuguese
    22
    Day 14

    Day 12. 17km Padrón to Santiago de comp

    July 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After a rest in Villa de Compostela Alburge we were up early for our final 17k. After a peaceful night's sleep with a room to ourselves by pure luck the other beds were free After a goodnight kiss from the cute owners dog who he took especialy back to say goodbye to the girls letting his beautiful brown golden doodle into our room. I never seen April jump from her top bunk so quick to cuddle him.
    We decided to take our last day really slow with lots of water breaks and stops for coffee. The last part had alot of hills which caused my feet to burn more and I cud feel a blister forming. The worst one yet. As we got closer to the end near the Cathedral we heard an Italian man singing in 'In Dublins fair City....... and so on. I cudnt stop smiling..I was very curious to know how he knew we were Irish as we continued to march on with him to the end he told me we are the talk of the Italian community of how amazing we are to do the camino. We walked into Santiago with the sound of singing and clapping and hugs all round.

    April here we finally started are last day from a good night sleep with no snoring and before bed a big hug from there dog. we woke up at 8:00 with Megan's alarm ringing. we started walking after having a nice big hot coco keeping me going for about 10k in of the 17k. we stopped for a nice big sandwich to share then kept going knowing we only had 7k left of the huge over 200k camino we finally were 30 mins to finishing. About 20 mins till we finished we met two Italian men who walked with us till the end we made it to the cathedral with pilgrims everywhere singing and dancing and some relaxing with there smelly feet out. We got to our hotel relaxed showered then decided to go out somewhere fancy for dinner but most places didn't open till 8 so we went to the shops got gifts for are friends and family then got a delicious dinner. We were so happy we finally met our friends again the Americans from Newyork were there they huged us said goodbye as we got to our hotel ready to sleep. Hopefully I'll do more caminos soon

    Megan here we left the albergue quite late and headed for the last 17km it was mostly uphill so it was very difficult after alot of coffee stops and alot if rests for April we reached santiago were we sat outside the cathedral. We then went to our hotel which was nice except for the staff. We had a lovely dinner which was fish and deserts we talked about how we hadn't seen Maria and Eva for ages and wondered would we see them again and suddenly I turned around and spotted them sitting behind us! We were all delighted to see each other again. For the rest of the evening my mam and April complained about there sore feet and blisters which I got none of. I really enjoyed the camino and would definitely do another one in the future.    Read more

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