Conques

Today: 53,634 steps, 24.4 miles, 39 Km (208 total kilometers over the last eight days). The goal for today: Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy (Abbatiale Sainte-Foy de Conques).

I left Estaing little before 6:30 AM. Following the pattern of these daily stages, we begin with steep climbs out of River valleys where towns tend to be located. Often times the path in and out of the valleys are dry river beds. Between the flowing water and the footpath traffic, they quickly become a sheet of rock with loose gravel. Difficult terrain at best.

Today was a little different because much of the path was on paved roads. I was nervous enough about taking on such a long hike with a full backpack, but I literally double timed down many of the hills and “rested” on the ascents.

I left my overnight stay without any food or coffee. This was brave. We are walking through really isolated country. There’s no place to pick up a sandwich or a cup of coffee for the most part.

Breakfast came at around 11 AM at Golinhac. I shared lunch (two café cream and a goat cheese, lettuce and tomato sandwich) with a French student of the English language who is planning a career in acting. I regaled him with some of my stories and an American accent that he was interested in (or was polite enough to pretend to be).

I bid him farewell when some of his friends joined him at the café where we were eating. That’s when I started getting serious about trying to make it to Conques. Many of my fellow pilgrims, doubted the decision only a little more than I. But I’ve heard so much about the history and beauty of Conques that I pressed on at the double time all the way to Espeyrac where I had a croque monsieur.

The walk to Sénergues was quiet except for texting to folks back home. I arrived on their festival day. I cut through town in a bit of a hurry, but I did stop and visit the Église Saint-Martin. The main structure we see today is the 16th century church but the foundations are a credit to Louis, the son of Charlemagne. I was greeted by a friendly cat, but the local donkey ran along side, braying angrily until I was well past.

Lastly, I repeated the difficult descent down the valley wall were Conques rises at the confluence of the Conques and Ouche Rivers.

I’ll have more to say tomorrow about Conqes and my first communal meal at the Abbey. I have a rest day here tomorrow. And tonight I want to be sure to take advantage of the presentation on the sculptures in the church at 8:30 and the organ recital that follows.Læs mere