Day 8
9 maj, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ 🌬 18 °C
Sea Days, Trivia & Formal Night 🚢🍹
We woke moderately late for us—around 7am—and headed upstairs for breakfast shortly afterwards. Today was our first full sea day, as we don’t arrive into Cabo San Lucas until tomorrow afternoon.
Thankfully, breakfast was nowhere near as chaotic as embarkation day. The dining room atmosphere was much calmer, which made the whole experience considerably more enjoyable.
One thing we have noticed though is that the food options onboard aren’t quite as good as on some of our previous cruises. The biggest issue is that with Ted being diabetic and myself being vegetarian, we often need to ask staff whether meals are low sugar or vegetarian because the descriptions usually don’t make it very clear. Other cruise lines we’ve travelled on have generally labelled those options much better.
Since today was meant to be more of a relaxing day, we headed upstairs to the Cosmopolitan Club on Deck 14, which has great views over the pool deck and is usually a quieter part of the ship.
As it turned out, some of the people we’d met the night before had exactly the same idea. Ben and Brett were already there when we arrived, and Tyler joined us later on.
When the cruise director made an announcement over the PA about the day’s activities, I decided to give Morning Trivia a try, and Ben and Brett decided to come along too.
We headed down to the Schooner Bar on Deck 4 and joined a surprisingly competitive trivia session involving 20 questions. Important topics included things like how many stars are on the New Zealand flag and how many countries begin with the letter L.
We weren’t exactly confident afterwards when we realised we’d only answered 10 questions correctly… until we discovered we’d actually won. Apparently everyone else had done even worse. Our reward for this incredible intellectual achievement was a complimentary pen each.
Since it still wasn’t lunchtime, I thought I’d try going to the gym. When I first checked upstairs, it didn’t look too busy, so I went back to the room to change and grab water. Somehow, in the five minutes it took me to do that, half the ship appeared to have had exactly the same idea.
Suddenly every bench, dumbbell, and machine was occupied. To make things even more frustrating, there were also people just standing around inside the gym seemingly observing everyone else work out while blocking access to equipment. Despite the chaos, I still managed to put together some kind of workout.
Fortunately, my drinks package includes smoothies, so afterwards I rewarded myself with a “Muscle Builder” smoothie. Whether it actually builds muscle remains to be seen.
Lunch brought us back to the Windjammer Marketplace for another round of what can only really be described as feeding time at the zoo. Honestly, I’m hoping we end up eating more meals in the formal dining room during the cruise because it’s significantly calmer and the meals feel much more balanced.
Since the ship feels noticeably busier than most cruises we’ve done before, we spent the afternoon relaxing in the cabin instead. I showered, read for a while, and generally took it easy while Ted watched the tennis.
Tonight was formal night onboard, so after dinner we headed back to the cabin and put on our Sunday best before going out for drinks.
Interestingly, only a fairly small percentage of passengers seemed to fully embrace the formal theme, although it was genuinely cute seeing some of the younger kids dressed up in little suits and dresses. There was also a 70s-themed event happening elsewhere onboard, and some of the outfits people had put together were very… groovy.
We ended up back at The Bamboo Room and caught up again with several of the people we’d met the previous night. Before that though, we met a Texan man named Joe who seemed far more interested in socialising with the gays than spending time with his wife 🤔
Throughout the evening we also met a couple from Sydney along with several other passengers before Kenny decided everyone with a drinks package should participate in rainbow shots.
As we don’t arrive into Cabo until around midday tomorrow, we didn’t feel too guilty staying out until around 12:30am—which definitely counts as a late night for us these days.Läs mer
Day 7
8 maj, North Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
All Aboard the Navigator of the Seas 🚢🌊
Despite being warned that the walls aboard the The Queen Mary were quite thin, we actually slept really well. Afterwards, I also remembered somebody once telling me the Queen Mary is supposedly haunted, but thankfully nothing went bump in the night either.
Since we’d already bought breakfast supplies from Vons the previous evening, we ate in the room before heading up to the Promenade Deck for coffee and toast. It was less about the food and more about the experience—sitting aboard a former luxury ocean liner while overlooking the harbour definitely felt a bit special.
After breakfast, we spent some time wandering around the ship exploring. It felt completely different compared to our previous visit because there weren’t crowds of tourists everywhere this time. Without the constant noise and guided tours, it was easier to appreciate the ship itself and imagine what travelling aboard her during the golden age of ocean liners might have been like.
Before long though, it was time to head to our cruise ship nearby. We collected our bags, checked out, and went downstairs to wait for our Uber transfer.
What should have been a quick pickup ended up taking much longer than expected because our driver was stuck in heavy traffic before reaching us. Thankfully, we’d left early so it wasn’t really an issue.
When we arrived at the Long Beach Cruise Terminal, there were two cruise ships docked, which made finding the correct terminal slightly confusing. After dragging our luggage through part of the car park, we finally reached our ship: Navigator of the Seas.
Ted had wisely printed our luggage tags beforehand, which should have meant a quick and easy bag drop. However, one staff member insisted we needed colour tags instead and directed us toward a huge queue to have them reprinted. Luckily, we checked with another attendant first, who told us our original tags were completely fine—saving us at least half an hour standing in line.
One thing we both noticed straight away was how unfriendly many of the terminal staff seemed. Several were openly yelling instructions at passengers while others looked thoroughly unimpressed to be there at all. This included one particularly stern check-in agent who honestly could have passed for the Bride of Frankenstein’s matron of honour.
Once onboard, the first thing we noticed was the huge number of children. We’ve done several cruises before, but never one that felt quite this family-heavy. Since our stateroom wasn’t ready yet, we headed to the Windjammer Marketplace buffet first. OMG. It was absolute chaos.
Far too many people packed into far too small a space. Between kids running everywhere, people circling tables looking for seats, and the general noise level, it definitely wasn’t the relaxed start to the cruise we’d imagined.
As soon as our cabin became available, we escaped there for a bit of peace and quiet. Thankfully, our luggage arrived not long afterwards, which made settling in much easier.
After unpacking, we explored the ship properly. I don’t really know how to phrase this politely, but the overall crowd onboard definitely felt a bit more… Walmart. We’ve cruised from Florida several times before and there’s usually a broader mix of passengers, whereas this cruise seemed to have a very particular vibe.
That said, there’s still a lot to like about this ship. Navigator of the Seas has waterslides, a rock-climbing wall, an escape room, mini golf, and the FlowRider—the onboard surfing simulator where people can practise surfing and bodyboarding on artificial waves. There’s definitely no shortage of things to do.
Later on, we grabbed some pizza from one of the cafés because the buffet hadn’t reopened yet, and thankfully when we eventually returned to Windjammer later in the evening, the atmosphere was far calmer than earlier in the day.
Ted also encouraged me to collect the complimentary souvenir cup included with our drinks package. The cups are electronically programmed so the ship’s drink dispensers recognise whether you’re entitled to unlimited soft drinks or not. At the first bar I visited, the staff member insisted our package didn’t include it. I tried again somewhere else a bit later and was given one immediately without any problem whatsoever. Consistency clearly isn’t always a strong point onboard.
Since there was an LGBT meet-up scheduled for 9:30pm, we relaxed in the cabin for a while first—and I even needed a nap—before heading to The Bamboo Room.
The venue itself was really fun, decorated in a tropical tiki-bar style with bamboo features, hanging lanterns, colourful lighting, and island-inspired décor. It had a relaxed atmosphere and ended up being a great place for the gathering.
There was a really good turnout too, and we met several nice people including Mike and Tyler from Los Angeles, Chad from Hawaii, Geoff from New York, Ben and Brett from Las Vegas, and a man named Kenny who was dressed as a Minion. Yes, really. There were also some Australians there, although we never quite got the chance to properly meet them.
Even though we only stayed until around 11:30pm—which honestly counts as a late night for us these days—it was really nice meeting some of our fellow passengers and starting to settle into cruise life.
Tomorrow: Mexico awaits.Läs mer
Day 6
8 maj, Förenta staterna ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
Back to California & A Night on the Queen Mary 🚢⚓
We’re cautiously optimistic that jet lag is finally behind us because last night we both slept really well—and at normal times too.
We’re also very glad we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express because it really ticked all the boxes for us: gym, swimming pool, laundry facilities, free coffee throughout the day, microwaves, and—as we experienced again this morning—a genuinely good breakfast. When you’re away from home for an extended period, those little conveniences make travelling so much easier.
Since we were heading back to Los Angeles today, we packed up after using the gym and made our way back to Phoenix Airport.
When the rental car agent asked how we’d found the EV, we may not have been entirely truthful when we told him it had been “great” 😄
The morning was going smoothly until Ted’s suitcase somehow toppled backwards down an escalator while we were heading upward. Thankfully nobody was hurt and nothing was damaged, but it definitely added a bit of drama to the day.
One thing we really appreciated at Phoenix Airport was the bag drop service located at the rental car facility itself. It meant we could check our luggage before even catching the transfer train to the terminal, saving us from dragging heavy bags all the way through the airport. I’m not usually someone who praises airports, but this one genuinely made travelling feel easier—including the check-in agent who waived the baggage fees for us.
Since we arrived early, we grabbed an early lunch at Four Peaks Brewing Company before boarding our flight.
While waiting at the gate, we started talking seriously about our upcoming flight from Los Angeles to Honolulu later in the trip. Originally we’d planned to travel standby using staff travel benefits, but the loads were already looking pretty tight. In the end, we decided the smarter option was simply to buy confirmed tickets for peace of mind. We managed to find reasonably priced fares with Delta Air Lines, which made us feel more relaxed about that part of the trip.
Our flight with American Airlines was actually very good. One thing we’ve both noticed is how much the airline seems to have improved in recent years. Similarly, Los Angeles International Airport itself also feels far more modern and organised compared to previous visits, when it often felt a bit tired and chaotic.
Once we arrived, we repeated our previous Uber strategy and headed south toward Long Beach. Our driver was friendly enough, although his car definitely could have benefited from a good clean. Unfortunately, because we arrived during mid-afternoon, the trip took nearly twice as long thanks to Los Angeles peak-hour traffic.
Tonight’s accommodation is something a little different. Before joining our cruise tomorrow, we’re spending the night aboard the Queen Mary, permanently docked in Long Beach Harbour. It’s not every day you get to spend the night aboard a piece of history.
Originally launched in 1936, the Queen Mary was one of the world’s most famous ocean liners and represented the golden age of transatlantic travel. During World War II, the ship was converted into a troop transport vessel and became known as the “Grey Ghost” because of its speed and grey wartime paintwork. After retiring from active service in the 1960s, the ship was permanently moored in Long Beach and transformed into a floating hotel and attraction.
We’d previously visited the ship as tourists and done one of the guided tours, but staying onboard overnight felt like a very different experience.
The receptionist warned us about a few things upon arrival: the walls can be thin, the air conditioning and heating are centrally controlled, and because… well… it’s a ship, the nearest restaurants are a decent walk away. Thankfully though, we didn’t really notice noise from other rooms at all.
Our cabin was actually really charming in an old-fashioned way. The room still retains much of the ship’s original character, with polished wood furnishings, brass fittings, vintage-style décor, and porthole-style windows that make it feel more like travelling aboard a classic ocean liner than staying in a hotel. It definitely felt different to your average modern accommodation.
After unloading our bags, we decided the walk to dinner would count as our exercise for the evening and headed across the harbour toward the restaurants at Shoreline Village.
The walk turned out to be easier than expected and we arrived much quicker than the receptionist had suggested. At one point, however, somebody onboard the Queen Mary decided to sound the ship’s horn—which absolutely scared the life out of us and pretty much everyone nearby.
There were several restaurant options nearby including Chili’s, Hooters, and Outback Steakhouse, but we ended up choosing P.F. Chang’s, which has always been one of our favourites.
It was exactly the kind of meal I’d been craving after a week of fairly unhealthy holiday food. I ordered a dish packed with vegetables and tofu—although the kitchen initially forgot to include the tofu altogether!
After dinner, we walked over to Vons to buy some wine for the cruise tomorrow. It was nice walking through Long Beach again as we’d stayed in this area a few years ago and remembered enjoying it then too.
By this stage though, we’d walked quite a long way from the Queen Mary, so Ted suggested we get an Uber back rather than walk at night. It never really felt unsafe—just further away than we wanted to walk.
When we arrived back at the ship, I realised I no longer had our room key cards. I still have no idea what happened to them because I’m usually very careful with things like that. My best guess is that I’d had them ready while getting out of the Uber and accidentally left them on the seat. Thankfully, it wasn’t a major issue and reception simply replaced them for us.
Tomorrow morning we’re hoping to explore more of the Queen Mary before the tourists arrive—and best of all, tomorrow marks the beginning of the cruise part of our holiday.
Mexico, here we come.Läs mer
Day 5
6 maj, Förenta staterna ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
Birthdays, Charging Problems & Scooby Doo 🎂🔋🕵️
Today was my birthday and, simply put, it turned into a far more interesting day than expected.
To be honest, I can’t remember the last time I was overseas for my birthday—although now that I’m 53, there’s every chance I’ve simply forgotten!
We didn’t have a huge amount planned for today, partly because some of our original ideas didn’t quite work out. Two places I’d considered visiting were the Desert Botanical Garden and Taliesin West.
The Desert Botanical Garden is one of Arizona’s best-known attractions, featuring thousands of desert plants from across the American Southwest, including giant saguaro cacti and native desert landscapes. Taliesin West, meanwhile, was the winter home and architectural school of famous architect Frank Lloyd Wright and is considered one of Scottsdale’s most important historic sites.
Both sounded really interesting—but so did the prices. Entry to the garden alone was USD$32.95 (about AUD$50), while Taliesin West was USD$44 (roughly AUD$67). By the time we added everything up, it felt like a pretty expensive day before we’d even started, so we decided instead to explore Scottsdale itself.
Thankfully, after several nights of poor sleep, I finally had a decent rest and woke up feeling much more normal. After breakfast, we headed out to explore Old Town Scottsdale.
Old Town Scottsdale has a really good atmosphere, mixing Southwestern-style buildings with galleries, restaurants, souvenir shops, and modern boutiques. It still leans into its Old West image, with wide streets, public artwork, and plenty of outdoor areas. We may have arrived a little too early though, because most of the shops were still closed, but it was still nice to walk around before it became busy.
From there, we headed to Kierland Commons, an open-air shopping and dining area in North Scottsdale. Rather than a traditional shopping centre, it’s designed more like an outdoor village with restaurants, shops, fountains, and walking areas. It definitely felt modern—and expensive.
Unfortunately, most of our morning was dominated by one issue: finding somewhere to charge the EV before returning it tomorrow.
I will definitely leave this trip wiser. When I booked the car, I genuinely thought choosing an electric vehicle was a smart idea given rising petrol prices linked to tensions in the Middle East. In reality, it’s probably created more stress than it’s saved.
When we finally found a charging station, we tried several times to get it working but nothing happened. Then we checked our banking apps and discovered pending charges totalling more than USD$140. After recovering from mild panic, Ted called the bank while I rang the charging company. Thankfully, the lady I spoke to explained it was only a pre-authorisation amount and reassured us that because the charger had never actually worked, the money would disappear again shortly.
The next part of the day felt mostly like wasted time as we drove around trying to find another charging station. One thing we quickly discovered is that Google Maps doesn’t seem particularly good at identifying which chargers are public and which are private, meaning several we found weren’t actually usable.
While driving past a Hyundai dealership, I noticed some EV chargers outside. I went in and asked whether they were for public use and the gentleman working there said yes. We kept that in mind while stopping briefly at Walmart so Ted could look for tennis shoes.
After failing yet again to find another working charger, we returned to the dealership and tried there instead. Naturally, things still weren’t straightforward. The machine wouldn’t accept our cards, so we attempted to download the charging app—only to discover we couldn’t register because we weren’t US residents.
At that point, the same gentleman from earlier came back outside to check how we were going.
He suggested plugging the car in while he tried paying through his own digital wallet. Amazingly, it worked immediately and the charger finally started.
When we asked how we could pay him back, he simply said, “Don’t worry, for you today it’s free.”
After the morning we’d had, we were incredibly grateful. It was just a genuinely kind thing for somebody to do, especially for complete strangers. I’ve always believed there are more good people in the world than bad ones, and today definitely reinforced that.
Since the charging would take about an hour, we walked nearby looking for somewhere to eat and ended up at Craft 64. The restaurant has a relaxed atmosphere and focuses on wood-fired pizzas and fresh ingredients. After the stress of the morning, it was a very welcome break.
Afterwards, we found an Indian grocery store where we bought Cadbury chocolate and peanut brittle as a thank-you gift for the Hyundai employee who had helped us. It felt like the least we could do considering how much stress he’d saved us from.
We definitely left with a valuable lesson though:
No more EV rental cars on holidays!
Back at the hotel, we spent a quiet afternoon recovering from the Great Charging Crisis of 2026 and were honestly too scared to drive anywhere else 😄
That evening, however, things improved dramatically.
We headed out to catch up with our friend Chris, whom we originally met years ago on a cruise through Asia. We first met Chris and his boyfriend Cliff for drinks at Buffalo Wild Wings before heading to Escapology for my birthday activity—an escape room.
We also met two of their friends, Christopher and Douglas, although they arrived slightly late thanks to the Escapology website sending them to the wrong address.
Out of all the available rooms, I chose the Scooby Doo-themed experience—partly because it had good reviews, and partly because I hoped it might make turning 53 feel slightly less confronting.
The room itself was really well done—bright, colourful, animated, and very Scooby Doo. The storyline involved solving clues to uncover a mystery involving the disappearance of members of Mystery Inc. and identifying the villain before time ran out. Even with six of us involved, we worked together surprisingly well and escaped with just over a minute to spare.
We then headed to AZ88 for dinner. Located near Scottsdale’s waterfront area, it has a modern atmosphere and was very lively for a weeknight. We really liked this part of Scottsdale—it felt social and energetic without being overwhelming.
The food was great, but the highlight was definitely when Chris surprised me with a strawberry shortcake dessert for my birthday ❤️
Since everyone except Ted and I had work the next day, it wasn’t a late night—but it ended up being a really enjoyable birthday after a fairly stressful start.
Tomorrow we leave Arizona behind and head back to California, where the next part of our adventure begins—our cruiseLäs mer
Day 4
5 maj, Förenta staterna ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
From Red Rocks to Ghost Towns 🚗⛰️
I tried going to bed later last night in the hope that I’d finally sleep in this morning… but no luck. I was wide awake at 5:30am. It probably didn’t help that an unknown number tried calling us in the middle of the night either. I remember having similar problems on previous overseas trips, so I think my body just doesn’t adapt particularly well to different time zones. It makes me grateful I never worked as an international flight attendant!
After packing up, we sadly said goodbye to beautiful Sedona and headed toward our first stop of the day—the historic town of Jerome.
For obvious reasons, I was very interested in visiting somewhere that shares my surname, and I was curious to see what we’d find. Before arriving, I’d read that Jerome was known for its ghost town atmosphere, dramatic mountainside setting, quirky arts scene, and allegedly haunted buildings—so expectations were already fairly high.
The drive from Sedona wasn’t especially long, but the scenery changed noticeably as we climbed higher into the Black Hills of central Arizona. Sitting at around 1,500 metres above sea level, Jerome was noticeably cooler than Sedona, with darker skies suggesting the weather was beginning to turn.
The town itself was fascinating straight away. Perched precariously on the side of Cleopatra Hill, Jerome almost looks like it’s clinging to the mountain. Narrow winding roads, steep hillsides, old staircases, and historic brick buildings give the place a really distinctive character. There were also some incredible mountainside homes mixed amongst an eclectic collection of galleries, cafés, wineries, antique stores, and gift shops.
Jerome’s history is just as interesting as its appearance. Originally established as a copper mining town in the late 19th century, it quickly became one of the wealthiest mining communities in Arizona thanks to the huge copper deposits discovered nearby. At its peak, more than 15,000 people lived here, and the town developed a reputation for being rough around the edges, filled with miners, gambling halls, saloons, and brothels. When the mining industry eventually declined, Jerome’s population collapsed and it was nearly abandoned completely—leading to its “ghost town” reputation today. Rather than disappearing entirely though, the town reinvented itself as an artist and tourism community, which honestly gives it a really unique atmosphere.
Our first stop was coffee—which I promptly managed to spill down myself. After that excitement, I was determined to explore the shops in search of anything with the name “Jerome” on it. Success. I ended up buying a Jerome T-shirt, an espresso cup, and another Christmas ornament for our collection. Adding to the atmosphere, marathon runners were sporadically making their way through town while locals stood outside cheering them on.
Possibly the town’s most famous landmark is the Jerome Grand Hotel, which sits high above the town overlooking the valley below. The building originally opened in 1927 as the United Verde Hospital, serving the mining community during Jerome’s boom years. At the time, it was considered one of the most modern hospitals in Arizona, complete with advanced medical equipment and one of the first elevators in the state. After the mining industry collapsed, the hospital eventually closed and sat abandoned for years before being transformed into a hotel in the 1990s. Today, it’s known not only for its incredible views, but also for its reputation as one of Arizona’s most haunted hotels—a detail the town seems very happy to embrace.
Getting there, however, was an adventure in itself. The road leading up to the hotel was narrow, steep, partly unsealed, and one-way in sections. If you weren’t concentrating, it was incredibly easy to miss the turn—which we did the first time around. For a few minutes, we genuinely thought we might be stuck winding through mountain roads for the next 45 minutes trying to turn around somewhere. Thankfully, a roadside viewpoint eventually saved us.
Before leaving town, I obviously had to stop for a photo with Jerome’s welcome sign. From there, we continued on toward Scottsdale. Looking at the weather forecast, I think we timed Sedona perfectly because the skies were becoming noticeably darker today, although we still managed to avoid any actual rain.
Arriving in Scottsdale, we were really happy with our accommodation. Staying at a Holiday Inn Express Scottsdale North feels slightly luxurious after constant moving around because you know exactly what you’re getting—comfortable rooms, decent facilities, and everything you need in one place. After unpacking and settling in, we headed out to a nearby Mexican restaurant that happened to be celebrating cheap taco day—which we suspect was connected to Cinco de Mayo being today.
Despite what many people assume, Cinco de Mayo is not actually Mexico’s Independence Day. Instead, it commemorates the Mexican army’s victory over French forces at the Battle of Puebla in 1862. While it’s only modestly celebrated in parts of Mexico, it has become hugely popular in the United States—particularly in the Southwest—as a broader celebration of Mexican culture, food, music, and heritage. Judging by the number of taco specials around town today, Scottsdale was definitely embracing it.
Back at the hotel, we tackled all the glamorous travel activities—using the gym, doing two loads of laundry, and grocery shopping at a nearby Safeway. Not exactly exciting, but necessary after nearly a week on the road.
Even so, the afternoon ended up being really enjoyable. Tomorrow is officially my birthday, and it honestly made my day already receiving birthday messages from friends and family back home in Australia. It’s a nice reminder that even when you’re overseas, people are still thinking about you.
Tomorrow should be especially fun because we’re catching up with our friend Chris, whom we originally met years ago on a cruise through Asia. After almost a week of travelling, it’ll be really nice to see a familiar face again. We’ve got dinner and an escape room planned for my birthday, which should make for a memorable birthday.Läs mer
Day 3
4 maj, Förenta staterna ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Chasing Sunrise (and Coffee) in Sedona & Beyond 🌄☕
Dragging ourselves out of bed early again this morning definitely wasn’t easy—but this time it was intentional. We’d set the alarm specifically to catch sunrise in Sedona, knowing how incredible the red rocks can look in that early morning light. In theory, it was a great plan. In reality… the weather had other ideas. Low cloud and overcast skies meant we missed out on the glowing reds and oranges we were hoping for. It was a little disappointing, but at least we were up early and ahead of the crowds—so we pushed on.
We initially thought about walking to nearby Bell Rock, which is close to our accommodation, but instead decided to try Cathedral Rock—one of Sedona’s most photographed landmarks. We aimed for the Easy Breezy Trail, a more relaxed option compared to the steeper summit tracks. The trail winds through open desert terrain with gentle elevation changes, offering wide views of the surrounding formations without requiring much effort. That said, after about half an hour, it felt like we were getting further away from Cathedral Rock rather than closer—so we cut our losses and turned back.
Next up was the Twin Buttes area, on the other side of the highway, and this ended up being a highlight. This part of Sedona feels quieter and more residential, with some impressive homes that really suit the landscape. The architecture is classic Southwestern desert style—earth-toned stucco, flat roofs, and large windows designed to frame the scenery. It all blends in with the surroundings rather than standing out, which works perfectly against the red rock backdrop.
From here, we also had a great view of the Chapel of the Holy Cross. Built into the cliffs in the 1950s, it’s one of Sedona’s most recognisable landmarks. The structure rises dramatically out of the rock, with a tall cross built into its façade, and was designed to feel like part of the landscape itself. Even from a distance, it’s a striking sight.
We then made our way into Upper Sedona—partly for coffee, but also to track down the well-known Snoopy Rock. This area has a more local, laid-back feel compared to some of the busier parts of town, with a mix of cafés, galleries, and small shops. Snoopy Rock is one of those quirky formations that only really works from a specific angle, where it resembles Snoopy lying on top of his doghouse. We didn’t quite nail the perfect photo, but it was still fun trying. Upper Sedona itself was a great find—easygoing and scenic without feeling overly touristy.
By this stage, we still hadn’t eaten, so we headed back to the hotel for a quick breakfast of cereal and yoghurt before heading out again.
For something different, we decided to drive up to Flagstaff, less than an hour away—but it felt like a completely different world. Sitting at over 2,000 metres above sea level and surrounded by the largest ponderosa pine forest in the United States, Flagstaff has a distinctly alpine feel. The temperature difference hit us immediately—while Sedona had been sitting comfortably in the 20s, Flagstaff struggled to reach double digits. Not ideal when you’ve dressed for desert weather.
As we arrived in the historic downtown area, we were stopped at a railway crossing for over five minutes while a long freight train passed through. It turned out to be a fitting introduction to the town.
Flagstaff’s history is deeply tied to the railroad. Established in the late 1800s along the transcontinental railway, it quickly became an important hub for transport and trade in northern Arizona. Later, the arrival of Route 66 cemented its place as a key stop for travellers crossing the country. Today, that history is still very much alive. The tracks still run straight through town, freight trains pass regularly, and the historic downtown has been carefully preserved.
Walking through the area, you’ll find early 20th-century brick buildings, vintage signage, and a mix of old storefronts that now house cafés, bars, and independent shops. There’s a real sense of character here—less polished than Sedona, but more grounded and authentic. It feels like a place with history, rather than one built purely for tourism.
Even though it was only around 10am, most places were still closed, but we were glad to find Tourist Home open. After the cold morning, warm soup and cheese toasties were exactly what we needed—and probably one of the most satisfying meals of the trip so far.
One thing we noticed straight away was how much more affordable Flagstaff seemed compared to Sedona, which makes sense given Sedona’s popularity as a tourist destination. After wandering the streets and taking a few photos, we made our way back toward Sedona, stopping briefly at Walmart along the way.
By the time we got back, the lack of sleep was catching up with us, so we had a quick nap before heading out again later in the afternoon.
Even though the weather was still fairly flat, we decided to give the viewpoints another go. Our first stop, Bell Rock Trailhead, was chaotic—cars circling, people waiting, and drivers hovering for spots. It felt more stressful than it was worth, so we moved on.
Our next stop, Courthouse Vista, was a completely different story—plenty of space and far more relaxed. While Ted stayed with the car sorting out the navigation, I went off to explore and noticed a couple climbing a small hill nearby. I followed, and it turned out to be one of the best decisions of the day. From the top, the view finally opened up—wide, uninterrupted, and exactly what we’d been hoping for since arriving. In front of me were Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte, rising out of the desert floor, with layers of red ridgelines stretching into the distance. Even without direct sunlight, the scale and colour of the landscape were still impressive.
I called Ted over to join me. He wasn’t entirely convinced it was a good idea—especially after we later spotted a sign reminding visitors to stay on marked paths—but even he admitted the view made it worthwhile.
We finished the day back in downtown Sedona, which we’d enjoyed earlier. After browsing a few shops, we picked up a Christmas ornament (a bit of a travel tradition for us), and stopped in at The Spice & Tea Exchange of Sedona. It’s a great little shop specialising in loose-leaf teas and spices, with everything from classic blends to more creative combinations.
We’re not usually big tea drinkers, but we gave it a go. Ted chose an Earl Grey with orange, while I tried the “Strawberry Meadows” blend—a fruity herbal mix of strawberry, apple, and light floral notes. Surprisingly good, and a nice way to support a local business.
After a full day and still running on limited sleep, we were more than ready for a quiet night in.
Sedona might not have delivered the sunrise we were hoping for, but it’s continued to impress in its own way—and we’re starting to see why so many people are drawn here.
Tomorrow, we head to Scottsdale to explore more of the Grand Canyon State.Läs mer
Day 2
3 maj, Förenta staterna ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Red Rocks, Road Trips & Rookie Errors 🚗🌄
After getting to bed late the night before, the last thing we wanted to hear—after flying all the way from Australia—was a 5:00am alarm. Despite the short sleep, we’d both rested reasonably well. We packed up quickly and headed outside to meet our Uber, ready to kick off the next leg of the trip.
Ted had already been awake earlier thanks to jet lag, so we’re hoping that doesn’t linger too long. Being a Sunday, traffic was light and the trip to Los Angeles International Airport was quick. Even more surprising was how smooth the TSA process was—far less hectic than we’d expected.
With no breakfast yet, we grabbed a fairly average airport meal—pancakes and eggs on toast—before heading to the gate. One thing we did enjoy was seeing so many dogs around the terminal. It’s definitely not something we’re used to back home, where the only airport regular is Elmo the service dog!
Our flight to Phoenix with Southwest Airlines was about two-thirds full, which made for a comfortable ride. The crew were friendly and relaxed, delivering a safety demonstration with plenty of humour—including the classic “in case our aircraft becomes a cruise liner…” line. Not something you hear every day.
In under an hour, we landed in the “Valley of the Sun”—Phoenix. This was my first time here, while Ted had visited once before. One thing the airport does very well is its rental car system. Instead of navigating out of the terminal area, you take a dedicated train to a massive off-site rental facility, which made that part easy.
Actually getting the car, however, was another story.
We’d booked an electric vehicle and were told to collect it from Bay 203… which didn’t exist. After a bit of back and forth, we were eventually offered a Kia EV6 instead. Once that was sorted, we hit the road toward Sedona.
On the way, we stopped at Montezuma Castle National Monument—a place we’d both technically visited before, although quite some time ago. Despite the name, it’s not actually a castle and has nothing to do with the Aztec ruler Montezuma. Instead, it’s a remarkably well-preserved cliff dwelling built by the Sinagua people around 900 years ago. Carved into a limestone cliff about 27 metres above ground, the structure contains around 20 rooms and would have housed an entire community. Its elevated position protected residents from flooding and made it easier to defend—an impressive piece of engineering considering its age.
Before we even got that far though, we had a minor crisis. When we stepped out of the car, we realised we had no idea where the key was. After tearing the car apart trying to find it, we eventually discovered it… on the passenger seat. I’d been sitting on it the whole time.
Arriving into Sedona, the scenery immediately stood out. The town is surrounded by striking red sandstone formations, shaped over millions of years by wind and water erosion. These towering rock formations—like Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte—glow deep orange and red, especially in the changing light, creating one of the most distinctive landscapes in the American Southwest.
We checked into Bell Rock Plaza and had a quick look around the nearby shops before deciding to charge the car. That’s when the next issue popped up—we couldn’t find the charging cables.
Once again, we pulled the car apart looking for them. After multiple phone calls to various Budget Car Rental offices (and being repeatedly redirected to call centres), we finally got through to someone helpful. As it turns out, things work differently in the US—charging cables are already attached to the stations, unlike back home where you bring your own. Apparently, they were removed from rental cars due to theft. Crisis over… again.
Finding an actual charging station, however, took a bit more effort. Many were located in quiet suburban areas with nothing nearby, but we eventually found one at The Collective Sedona. By this stage it was around 3pm and we hadn’t eaten properly, so we were relieved to find Dellepiane—an Argentinian spot that was still open. Exactly what we needed.
By the afternoon, jet lag was starting to hit. We headed back to the hotel for a quick nap… which may have gone a little longer than planned. Waking up felt harder than expected, but we pushed on and headed out for a drive.
We took the Red Rock Scenic Byway toward downtown Sedona—and it’s hard to overstate just how impressive it is. This stretch of road is considered one of the most scenic drives in the US, running through a corridor of towering red rock formations. On either side, you’re surrounded by iconic landmarks like Bell Rock, Cathedral Rock, and Courthouse Butte, with layers of red and orange cliffs contrasting against bright blue skies. As the sun lowers, the colours intensify, giving the whole landscape an almost unreal appearance.
After picking up some groceries, we attempted to drive up to Airport Mesa—known for some of the best panoramic views in the area. Unfortunately, so did everyone else. The line of cars crawling up the hill wasn’t moving, so we quickly gave up and turned around.
Instead, we headed back into town and stopped at Tlaquepaque Arts and Shopping Village—and this turned out to be a highlight. Originally built in the 1970s to resemble a traditional Mexican village, it’s far more than just a market. The space is beautifully designed, with cobblestone pathways, archways, courtyards, and vine-covered walls. It’s home to a mix of art galleries, boutique shops, and quality restaurants, all set within a really atmospheric setting. It felt authentic, relaxed, and genuinely worth the visit—we both really enjoyed it.
Coming into Arizona, we weren’t entirely sure what to expect given how long it had been since either of us had visited. But so far, Sedona has exceeded expectations.
Even though we’re running on fumes at this point, we’ve set the alarm for an early start tomorrow. If today is anything to go by, sunrise here should be something pretty special.Läs mer
Day 1
2 maj, Australien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Welcome to Our Next Adventure – USA Bound 🇺🇸✈️
This trip has been on our minds for a while now. With the ongoing Iran conflict and the resulting fuel concerns, there was definitely a point where we questioned whether everything would go ahead as planned. If anything, it’s made us appreciate the opportunity to travel even more.
Our journey started in Sydney this time, rather than Adelaide. Ted arrived on Thursday to spend some time with his mum and catch up with friends, while I flew in early Friday morning to meet him. That night, we stayed at the Crowne Plaza Sydney Airport ahead of our international departure the following day.
Saturday came around quickly, with a 3:30am start. After a week of early mornings, we’d gone to bed pretty early, but fortunately managed to drift back to sleep for a bit before getting moving. Once up, we packed, had a quick buffet breakfast at the hotel, and made our way toward the airport.
We walked over to QCC (Qantas Central Complex) and caught the staff bus across. Within five minutes, we’d already run into three people we knew—proof of how small the aviation world becomes after more than 20 years in it.
Living in Adelaide for the past five years has definitely softened us, because we’d both forgotten how full-on Sydney Airport can be. Thankfully, no staff travel roulette this time—we booked Business Class with Philippine Airlines, which made check-in straightforward and stress-free.
With lounge access included, we headed into the House Lounge by Aspire. To be honest, it was pretty average—crowded, uninspiring food, and staff who didn’t seem overly interested. It did the job, but we were glad we’d already eaten and didn’t hang around long before heading back into the terminal.
Sydney Airport itself felt chaotic. It brought back memories of Stansted Airport, but without the same sense of organisation. Our boarding gate—number 26—was split into A, B, C and D, and despite the screens telling everyone to relax, the growing line told a different story. We joined it early, which turned out to be the right call. Boarding had already started, and we were quickly put onto buses out to the aircraft.
Once onboard, things improved straight away. The Business Class cabin was comfortable, and the crew were friendly and professional. They showed impressive patience too—especially when one passenger decided to stay on a Zoom call through the entire safety demonstration.
The flight to Manila was around nine hours. Service was solid, the seat was comfortable, and the time passed fairly quickly with a few episodes of Stranger Things and the movie About Time. Sleep, however, was limited.
We were first off the plane in Manila and made our way straight to connections. Despite its reputation, Ninoy Aquino International Airport actually felt calmer than Sydney. We spent our five-hour layover in the Business Lounge, which was simple but noticeably better than what we’d just experienced.
Boarding our next flight, we noticed a big difference straight away. The Business Class cabin was older and definitely showing its age. The flatbed was a bit rickety, and there was no real storage space, but the upside was the amount of room—easily the most legroom we’ve had.
After a long taxi, we were both just waiting for the meal service so we could try to get some sleep. By that point, it was well past midnight back home, so we were definitely feeling it.
Even with the outdated Skybed, we managed to get a bit of rest—more than we would’ve in Economy anyway! The seat did come with a few downsides though. Ted knocked water onto his phone, which stopped working for a few tense minutes, and I managed to temporarily lose a charging cable somewhere behind the seat.
One thing that stayed consistent across both flights was the service from Philippine Airlines—reliable and friendly. Although I think there was a slight mix-up with my vegetarian meal, which seemed to be interpreted as vegan when any butter disappeared pretty quickly!
Eventually, we touched down in Los Angeles. One thing that stood out straight away was the number of wheelchairs waiting at the gate—well over 30—which gives you an idea of how many passengers needed assistance on this flight.
Immigration at Los Angeles International Airport was surprisingly smooth. We were first in line, and it was all over pretty quickly. Baggage claim took a bit longer, but that’s expected at a major airport like LAX.
Getting to our hotel in Redondo Beach was straightforward. LAX now runs a free shuttle to a designated ride-share area, which made things much easier compared to previous trips where we’ve waited ages for transport.
By the time we got to the hotel, it was around 10:30pm. At that point, all we wanted was a shower and a proper bed. With an early 8am flight to Phoenix the next morning, we didn’t have long—but it didn’t matter.
We’d made it to the US, and the trip was finally underwayLäs mer
Day 32
17 juni 2025, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C
After all the waiting (and more waiting) I did yesterday, I can’t express how relieved I was to get upgraded. One thing I didn’t mention at the time, though, is how Thai Airways’ business class—called Royal Silk—is quite different from other carriers I’ve flown. I’m definitely not complaining or trying to air first-world problems, but you can tell it’s a little more dated compared to airlines like Turkish or Cathay Pacific. That said, the lie-flat seat was comfortable, the cabin crew were wonderfully attentive, and overall, the experience was great.
One nice touch: the crew handed out hot towels between every course. There wasn’t a vegetarian option available for me, so I went pescatarian and had a couple of nice fish meals instead. And the staff travel website wasn’t wrong—there were plenty of seats up front. In our section of 20, only three were occupied, which meant extra blankets and pillows for everyone.
I managed to get about five hours of sleep, and we landed in Bangkok right on time. As I was walking toward passport control, I started to wonder whether I’d needed to apply for a visa online ahead of time. (Spoiler: I did.) I stepped aside and tried to sort it out on my phone, which wasn’t easy—especially with Ted calling me four times mid-process to see where I was!
Thankfully, baggage claim was fast, and I soon stepped out into the thick Bangkok humidity. Once I had that confirmed ticket the night before, I’d jumped online and booked a day room at the Amaranth Suvarnabhumi Hotel. I’d also asked for the included airport shuttle—but since I hadn’t received a response and no one was waiting with a sign, I figured the message hadn’t gone through.
Getting a taxi was a bit of a saga. Since they only accepted cash, I had to find an ATM first. Then the first driver turned me down because the trip was too short. Eventually, though, I was on my way.
Arrival at the hotel was… interesting. After giving reception my name and passport, I could tell by their body language that no reservation showed up in their system. One of the staff even asked if he could take photos of my confirmation email. Not ideal, but not a disaster—they had a spacious room available with a king-size bed, strong air con, and a beautiful view of several industrial warehouses.
After a shower and three hours of sleep, I finally felt human again. There was even a decent restaurant downstairs with reasonably priced meals. I could have ventured outside for a bit of exploring, but in this heat—who could be bothered?
By 4 p.m., I had to check out of my room, which was fine because I found a quiet corner in the hotel bar to relax—away from the loud music and noisy guests. Since Qantas looks mostly booked, I’m trying my luck on the Thai Airways flight to Sydney instead. It’s slightly better than the Melbourne option, and from there I’ll head back to Adelaide.
I ended up being the only passenger in the shuttle bus to the airport, so the ride to Suvarnabhumi was quick and quiet. Thankfully, Bangkok Airport has a dedicated staff travel counter, and the friendly man there told me I couldn’t check in just yet—but he did confirm that I’d get a seat, and that it looked like all staff travellers would be seated in business class. A very welcome bit of news!
With time to kill, I headed down to Charm Boat Noodles in the food court and had some dinner: a comforting selection of dim sum, including shrimp siu mai and two kinds of steamed buns—one custard and the other with taro. Just what I needed at this point in the journey.
Back at the check-in desk just before 9 p.m., the same staff member checked with his supervisor—and just like that, I was handed a Royal Silk boarding pass. He also let me know I could use the Premium Lane (BKK’s express immigration line), which definitely helped streamline the process.
Now, I’m feeling very grateful and excited to be heading home. I can’t wait to see Ted and Snoopy again and settle back into my regular routine. I’m on a different Thai Airways aircraft this time, and the business class cabin is absolutely stunning—sleek design, plenty of space, and that signature purple lighting that gives it a real premium feel. The one I flew yesterday must’ve been an older aircraft. This one’s on another level!
Thanks for following our adventures—we hope you’ve enjoyed coming along for the ride!Läs mer
Day 31
16 juni 2025, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
One thing we’ve learned with staff travel is that it’s always best to aim for the first flight of the day if the loads are looking tight. And today, they definitely were. That meant a 3:45am wake-up so I could try to catch the earliest flight to Frankfurt. Fortunately, thanks to Finland’s endless daylight, waking up at that hour didn’t feel quite as brutal. I felt worse for Heddi, who also had to wake up early to drive me to the airport!
There was virtually no traffic, and we reached the airport quickly. I’d asked Heddi just to drop me at the departures entrance so she could get back to bed without delay. At the check-in desk, the agent told me I had a 50-50 chance of getting onboard—but said I could also request the jump seat if needed. In the meantime, she added, I could wait in the business lounge. I wasn’t sure if I was technically allowed, but sure enough, they let me in.
I didn’t stay long—just enough time for some porridge and a coffee—before heading to the gate to make my jump seat request. As I waited, I received an email from Lufthansa: I’d been cleared for a seat in business class. What a relief.
Boarding was smooth, and I was just glad to be onboard. I was served apple strudel for breakfast (the other option was meat-based), and even managed to drink the instant coffee without complaint. I got chatting with the crew, and we were about to take a “crewfie” together—until the curtain to economy suddenly swung open and another crew member asked for help with an unwell passenger. That was the end of that idea.
On arrival in Frankfurt, we were bussed to the terminal where I collected my luggage and made my way to Terminal C to find the Thai Airways counters. I say “find” because they wouldn’t be opening until 11:30am—and it was currently just after 8am. So I had 3.5 hours to kill.
I passed a good chunk of that at Starbucks—writing this blog, having something to eat, and very deliberately skipping their coffee. When I glanced back at the check-in area later, I saw the desks were finally open.
The check-in process, however, was anything but smooth. The agent looked like he was still learning the system, and when I asked about my chances of getting a seat, he offered a vague “You’ll find out at the gate.” Reassuring.
I made my way toward the gate, navigating the usual gauntlet of security, passport control and customs. At some point, I discovered that my water bottle had leaked in my bag. Thankfully, last night’s bed clothes soaked up most of it—and at least it was just water.
Closer to the gate, I found a quiet rest area to regroup and unwind. I was definitely feeling the five hours of sleep from the night before.
After what seemed like a long, long wait, I headed to the boarding gate half an hour early to see if there was any clue about my situation. The desk agent told me, yes, I would be getting a seat—but she just wasn’t sure which one yet. So I waited, hopeful but exhausted.
Finally, after another thirty minutes, she handed me a boarding pass with two of the nicest words in the English language printed on it: Business Class. What a massive relief after such a long and uncertain day.
When we boarded, the cabin was surprisingly warm—maybe they were trying to acclimatise us to Bangkok early! I was so stoked when I saw my seat that I instinctively reached for my phone to take a photo… and promptly dropped it into the abyss behind the seat in front.
Cue one of the more awkward moments of the day: I had to call over one of the male flight attendants, who then moved the seat into multiple positions before squeezing himself into the narrow gap and fishing it out. I was incredibly grateful—and more than a little embarrassed.
But after that bit of drama, I settled in properly and finally relaxed. One surprise was just how empty business class was.
We’ll be taking off shortly, so I’d better sign off for now until we arrive in Bangkok. I’ve loved this holiday—but I’ve got to admit, it’s exciting to be heading home too.Läs mer
Day 30
16 juni 2025, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
Today was a relaxing one, which was definitely welcome after a hectic few weeks of constant travel. After breakfast, Heddi and I walked over to her father’s nearby place to help with preparations for his 80th birthday celebration. The day ended up being a bit of a reunion for me—I’ve met most of Heddi’s extended family before, but it had been a long time since seeing many of them. Some I hadn’t seen in 28 years!
The celebration included many people I’d met before, like Heddi’s dad, her sister Ninni and her husband Mikael, her aunt and uncle Kerstin and Bjarne, their daughters Assi and Solveig, and their son Oskar—whom I didn’t recognize at first, since he was only 12 the last time I saw him. I also met several people for the first time, including Solveig’s husband Mikael and their sons Jonatan and Kasper, Assi’s partner Oliver and their son Lukas, Ninni’s daughters Elsa and Klara, and family friends PQ and Konschin. (To be honest, I didn’t remember everyone’s names—Heddi helped me piece the list together!)
We had pizzas and salads for lunch, which was a great solution for such a large crowd. They sang “Happy Birthday” in both Swedish and English, though after the English version, there was no “Hip Hip Hooray” to follow. I almost jumped in with it myself, but then imagined everyone staring blankly at me if it wasn’t a thing here—so I wisely kept quiet.
After most of the group headed off to see a public theatre performance, Heddi and I made our way back home to regroup, then took the train into Helsinki for a bit of sightseeing before I begin the long journey home tomorrow. (Once again, the ticket machine didn’t accept my card, so I scored another free ride—not complaining!)
We began our visit at Helsinki Cathedral (Tuomiokirkko), the imposing white neoclassical church that towers above Senate Square. It’s easily the most iconic building in Helsinki, with its green domes and wide staircase that’s popular with locals and tourists alike. From there, we walked through the Esplanadi Park—a lovely green strip right in the city centre, flanked by cafés and lined with trees and flowerbeds. This area always has a buzz to it, from street musicians to families enjoying the last of the summer sun.
We also made our way to Uspenski Cathedral, a red-brick Eastern Orthodox church perched on a hill with golden onion domes and a sweeping view over the harbour. It’s a reminder of Finland’s historic ties with Russia and offers a stunning contrast to the white elegance of Helsinki Cathedral.
Eventually, we found ourselves near the harbourfront, where we visited the SkyWheel and Allas Sea Pool complex. The Ferris wheel there has the typical panoramic views of the city—but what makes it uniquely Finnish is the private sauna cabin included in one of its carriages. Only in Finland! Nearby, we grabbed a drink at Allas Wine & Dine, an elevated bar that offers a perfect view over the water and the buzz of locals enjoying the sea baths below. We enjoyed a glass of Banrock Station Reserve Shiraz—a solid choice from back home that made for a fun contrast to the Nordic setting.
Dinner was at a vegetarian restaurant called Yes Yes Yes, a stylish spot with a playful name and a variety of creative plant-based dishes. The crowd was surprisingly international—everyone around us seemed to be speaking English, both staff and diners. We had a set menu featuring a variety of small plates that showcased different flavours and styles, from grilled vegetables to halloumi, dips, and flatbreads—plenty to share, and a nice change of pace.
After dinner, we walked a bit more through the city, soaking in the light and the lively summer vibe before catching the train back to Esbo. Tonight, I’ll need to pack up for the beginning of my journey home. With the Finnair strike still ongoing, I’ll now be flying to Frankfurt early tomorrow, and then continuing on to Bangkok and eventually Sydney.
Fingers crossed all goes smoothly with staff travel!Läs mer
Day 29
14 juni 2025, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
I woke up moderately early, around 7 a.m., and checked my phone to see that Ted had arrived safely in Hong Kong via Bangkok. Although he hadn’t gotten much sleep, he was still feeling chipper—just waiting until he could check into his hotel. It had been pouring in Bangkok, but thankfully things were clearer in Hong Kong. Interestingly, Heddi told me it had also been raining nonstop in Finland before I arrived, and my cousins in Germany said something similar before we got there. Maybe we’re bringing the sunshine with us wherever we go?
Once everyone was up, Heddi, Freja, and I had breakfast together before heading out for a walk in nearby Central Park in Espoo. This peaceful green expanse is a mix of forest trails, winding paths, and small lakes—like nature snuck into the middle of suburbia. It’s a favourite spot for locals to walk their dogs, cycle, or even take part in forest yoga classes, which Heddi said have become quite popular. I made the mistake of wearing jeans, assuming the weather would be cooler—it wasn’t. So after a long walk, I was grateful to return and switch into shorts. While Finland may not be as warm as some of our other stops, it’s definitely still summer here.
Later in the morning, Heddi had planned a visit to the Gallen-Kallela Museum, and Pentti kindly dropped us off. The museum is located in Tarvaspää, by the shore of Laajalahti Bay. It was once the home and studio of renowned Finnish painter Akseli Gallen-Kallela, known for his work inspired by the Finnish national epic, The Kalevala. The building itself is a striking mix of medieval, romantic, and national romantic styles—almost like a small fairytale castle nestled among the trees.
We met Heddi’s friend Johanna there, someone I first met on my original trip to Finland in 1996—and again in 1997 and 2014. (The three of us even took a Boxing Day train trip to Rovaniemi together in ’97!) It was great to see her again and reminisce about our shared adventures.
Before our museum visit, we had lunch at the Tarvaspää Café, located next to the museum outside a charming wooden villa with lake views. I had two traditional Finnish treats: a creamy lohikeitto (salmon and potato soup) and a delicious slice of mansikkakakku (strawberry cake). The soup was comforting and rich, and the cake—layered with sponge, cream, and glazed strawberries—tasted as summery as it looked.
Our English-speaking guide, Vilma, gave us a wonderful tour of the museum. She shared that Gallen-Kallela was not only a painter but also designed many of the furnishings in his home, blending art and architecture into one cohesive vision. His works often drew from mythology and national identity, and the museum features original sketches, paintings, and personal artefacts that shed light on his creative process.
Afterward, we wandered down to the lake for a quiet, tranquil moment. It was one of those peaceful little pauses that felt especially welcome after the fast pace of the past four weeks. Johanna kindly drove us back to Heddi and Pentti’s home, where we enjoyed a relaxed evening.
Later, we walked over to Heddi’s dad’s nearby house to help get things ready for his 80th birthday celebration tomorrow. It was great to see him again, and I also caught up with Heddi’s younger sister, Ninni—it’s been since 2014, so definitely a long-overdue reunion. Nice to reconnect before what’s bound to be a big day.
When we returned, Pentti had cooked a fantastic dinner: salmon with vegetables and a pasta salad on the side. Exactly what we needed after the day’s activities.
It looks like I’ll be on the early flight to Frankfurt on Monday, which means a pre-4 a.m. wake-up. Trying to call it an early night tonight—though we’ll see how that goes.
All in all, a beautiful day full of art, nostalgia, and the peaceful rhythm of Finnish summer.Läs mer
Day 28
13 juni 2025, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Even with the extra hour we gained crossing from Central European Time into British Summer Time yesterday, it still felt like we didn’t have enough time for sleep. Before we knew it, the 5 a.m. alarm was sounding, and it was time to continue on to our next destination.
This was the only accommodation we’ve stayed at so far that provided breakfast, so even though we were too early for the hot option, it was still greatly appreciated. I probably should’ve held back on the sugar, but when I saw Coco Pops… well, I couldn’t refuse.
After taking our transfer to the airport, we had to do something we’d been dreading—go our separate ways. I was flying Ryanair (again!) to Helsinki, while Ted was taking a National Express bus to Heathrow to connect with a flight to Hong Kong. After four weeks together, it was a sad moment, but we’ll be back home—and reunited with Snoopy—soon.
At Stansted, the Ryanair bag drop counters were absolute mayhem. Somehow, I even managed to pop back for a second farewell with Ted before going through security. That turned out to be its own adventure: my backpack showed up with a big red X on the security monitor (not physically on the bag, thankfully!). I never found out why, but after an additional inspection, all was fine.
I then started the long, long walk to my gate, past what felt like an endless corridor of shops, restaurants, and duty-free outlets. When I finally reached the gate… they were already boarding! I’m starting to suspect Ryanair rewards early departures. Sure enough, the doors were closed a full 15 minutes ahead of schedule.
Fortunately, I had a few downloaded episodes of Black Mirror on my iPad to entertain me during the roughly 3-hour flight. I’d briefly considered asking the crew for a “crewfie,” but they all looked so dour, unfriendly, and antisocial that I decided against it.
Helsinki greeted me with beautiful weather and clear skies, and it was such a relief to finally be somewhere that wasn’t hot! The walk from the arrival gate to passport control was another long one, but soon I was in the arrivals hall and met by Heddi and her daughter Freja! (For anyone unsure, Hedvig and I have been penpals for 38 years now. We’ve met several times over the years, but I won’t reveal either of our ages by saying how old we were when we started writing!)
After a few misdirections from the GPS, we arrived at Heddi’s place in Espoo (Esbo in Swedish), just outside Helsinki. Luckily for me, she offered lunch—which was greatly appreciated, as I hadn’t eaten since my hotel breakfast and was only offered a small bottle of water and a packet of peanuts on the flight.
It was so good to catch up, even though we had also seen each other in Málaga last year. I’ll admit, I did need a nap during the afternoon after the early start. Naps are becoming a bit of a tradition on this holiday!
Later, when Heddi’s husband Pentti got home from work, we went for a walk and dinner in Haukilahti (or Gåddvik in Swedish), a tranquil coastal area in Espoo. It’s a stunning spot where the rocky shoreline meets the Baltic Sea, dotted with sailboats, quiet walking paths, and families enjoying the long daylight hours. Heddi mentioned they’d had a lot of rain recently, so everyone was clearly making the most of the warm, sunny evening—including the dogs!
As we wandered along the rocky shore and marina, I even spotted the distinctive, UFO-shaped Haukilahti water tower in the distance—a curious landmark peeking above the trees, quietly watching over the bay. Pentti said it’s a well-known feature in the area, and I could see why. It added a touch of sci-fi flair to an otherwise peaceful seaside scene.
Dinner was at Strindberg by the Sea, a charming waterfront restaurant perched right at the edge of the marina. It has a relaxed but stylish Scandinavian vibe—whitewashed wood, soft lights strung overhead, and a gentle hum of conversation from tables overlooking the water. Though reviews had mentioned slow service, we were lucky and had a friendly and attentive waitress.
Even better, the menu was available in English! I chose pickled herring—traditionally Finnish—served with rye crumb, capers, shaved cheese, asparagus, and a zesty dill garnish. It was as fresh and flavourful as it looked. That was followed by a rich risotto and some ice cream to finish.
It really was the perfect way to end the day—beautiful scenery, warm weather, good food, and wonderful company. I won’t be staying up too late tonight after the early start, but I’m very much looking forward to the weekend Heddi has planned.Läs mer
Day 27
12 juni 2025, England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Today marked our final day in Trieste, and also the bittersweet end of our shared European adventure before we head back to Australia. Since we’d be flying out to London Stansted this evening, Ted suggested we start our day with breakfast out — a nice way to mark the occasion.
That was easier said than done. Apparently, breakfast isn’t really a thing here the way it is back home. Most cafés and restaurants didn’t even start serving until lunch. But we were determined and eventually stumbled upon Home Sapore di Casa, a cozy café that not only had proper breakfast options, but also — to my great joy — served the first decent coffee I’ve had in weeks. (Not one decent one on the cruise — not for lack of trying.)
We’re still having a few misadventures with language. Ted ordered a latte and was promptly served a large glass of warm milk. (Technically correct, but not what he had in mind!)
After breakfast, we headed back to the apartment to pack up for good. We stored our luggage at the nearby train station to enjoy a final wander through the city. Ted was on a mission: new shoes. His current pair had all but disintegrated. Shopping, as many know, is not my favorite activity — but I braved it with the promise of gelato as my reward.
We returned to the same shaded pedestrian street where I’d found that delicious kebab earlier in the week. There, we grabbed some lunch (pasta and a sandwich), and — true to my promise — I got my gelato.
One thing that stood out today: the heat. Apparently, it’s seven degrees hotter than the average June day here, which might explain why I’ve been melting more than usual.
Eventually, we made our way back to the station to collect our bags and catch the train to the airport. To our surprise (and relief), the train was already waiting at the platform. We gladly jumped on early, choosing the bliss of air-conditioned comfort over a stuffy wait on the platform.
The ride was a quick half hour, but the arrival was… unexpected. The airport was tiny — far smaller than we’d imagined. Honestly, it made Newcastle Airport back home look like an international mega-hub with multiple terminals.
After a lot of sitting around, we finally went through to the boarding area — which wasn’t exactly ideal, since there was barely any seating available for passengers. Not that the Ryanair flight itself was much better! We boarded our glamorous (not) budget airline with its tiny seats and no seat pockets, and waited for our pre-ordered inflight meal.
After takeoff, our TV dinners were finally delivered: Ted had lasagne, and I had… vegan lasagne. I’m not being snobby, but when we tried to eat them, the tray tables — which had no lip or edge — meant we both ended up with our meals in our laps at least once. And the Cokes we’d ordered? Tepid, of course. We knew better than to expect ice.
Thankfully, the flight was short — though the landing was a hard one, to say the least. At immigration in Stansted, the queue looked huge but moved surprisingly quickly. Then came the minor drama of transferring money to my Travelex card, since the hotel had claimed its shuttle only accepted cash. Naturally, when we arrived, they accepted cards too.
The hotel is basic, but honestly perfect for a one-night stay: clean, efficient, and tucked away in a quiet area. Tomorrow will be bittersweet — Ted and I go our separate ways for the first time this trip. But only for a few days! We’ll be seeing each other — and Snoopy — back in Australia soon.Läs mer
Day 26
11 juni 2025, Slovenien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
After a great night’s sleep, we had a relaxed breakfast in the apartment while scrolling through Staff Travel options. Since Ted is heading back to Australia a few days earlier than me, he’s been on the hunt for a flight out of Hong Kong, while I’ll be heading to Finland to visit my friend Hedvig before continuing home. The ongoing airline strike might mean a detour via Germany for me before I can make it to Asia, but we’ll figure it out.
Today’s adventure was a day trip to Ljubljana (pronounced lyoo-BLYAH-nah), the capital of nearby Slovenia. I’d booked us on FlixBus—yes, the same company that had delivered a less-than-stellar experience from Hamburg to Berlin, but at a fraction of the train fare, I figured it was worth the gamble. And no, our choice of destination had nothing to do with Melania Trump being born in Slovenia. Promise.
We left the apartment early to grab a coffee and check out the baggage storage options at Trieste’s train station for tomorrow (they have it, thankfully). As we were heading out the door, Ted asked if we needed our passports. I’d originally assumed no—Italy and Slovenia are both in the Schengen Area—but something told us to pack them anyway. Good thing we did. When the bus finally arrived (almost an hour late—classic FlixBus), the driver insisted on seeing passports from every single passenger. We later found out this was due to increased checks to prevent illegal border crossings along bus routes.
While we were waiting, we had another surprising reunion. Shirley—a lovely 88-year-old Aussie we’d met on the cruise—was at the station waiting to catch her bus to Venice’s airport for the first leg of her journey back to Brisbane. We’d already said our goodbyes, so it was a bit of a “fancy seeing you here” moment, just like with the Americans the day before. Travel has a funny way of looping people back into your path.
The ride to Ljubljana took about an hour and a half. As we approached the city, the scenery shifted to rolling green countryside, a refreshing contrast to the coastal views of Trieste. But the change wasn’t just geographic—Ljubljana felt immediately different. The temperature was cooler, the light had a different quality, and the architecture—especially near the bus station—was stark and a bit austere. Ted commented that it looked like how he’d imagined Warsaw might, with slightly Soviet vibes at first glance.
But as we made our way into the Old Town, the tone softened. The first stop was Butchers’ Bridge, which turned out to be equal parts romantic and quirky. With its rows of padlocks clinging to the railings and a few oddball statues along the way, it was more modern art installation than traditional bridge, but definitely memorable.
From there, we wandered through the Central Market, an open-air arcade designed by famed Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik. With arched stone facades and bustling stalls offering fresh fruit, cheese and pastries, it had a charmingly local feel. We paused near the Cathedral of St. Nicholas, instantly recognisable by its green twin spires and baroque yellow façade. The bronze relief doors—etched with scenes of Slovenia’s religious and national history—added a surprising layer of detail.
Just across from the cathedral stood the Town Hall, a mix of Gothic roots and Baroque additions, now blending beautifully with the slightly worn elegance of the surrounding square. It was a perfect spot to pause and take in the pace of the city, which felt relaxed, like it knew exactly what it was and didn’t need to show off.
We decided to tackle Ljubljana Castle while the morning was still cool. The shaded walk uphill was pleasant enough, though the signpost near the top offered some confusion. One arrow even pointed to something called the “Cat Path”—tempting, but not helpful. We chose the steep cobbled climb Google suggested, and after catching our breath at the summit, we took in the views. The castle itself, though? Slightly underwhelming. Modernised to the point where it felt more like a convention centre than a medieval fortress, it lacked the historical soul we’d found in places like Miramare. Still, the panorama over the terracotta rooftops below made the climb worthwhile.
By the time we descended, we were both ready for lunch. We aimed to eat somewhere just outside the main tourist circuit and ended up at Altroke, a Michelin-listed spot. Ted fared well with a hearty lamb goulash served over creamy polenta, while I settled for gnocchi—the only vegetarian option on the menu. It was decent, but I was still on the hunt for something distinctly Slovenian.
So, we stopped by a cheerful little cake shop called Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku (you’ll recognise it by its bright yellow and pink signage with cartoon cakes), and I ordered a slice of Prekmurska Gibanica. A traditional Slovenian dessert, it’s a dense, multilayered pastry made with poppy seeds, walnuts, apples, raisins, and sweet quark cheese. Each layer adds a different texture and taste—nutty, tangy, fruity, and just sweet enough to feel indulgent without being cloying. I devoured it. Ted passed.
Next, we made our way to Prešeren Square, the city’s social and architectural heart. It’s dominated by the striking salmon-pink Franciscan Church of the Annunciation, which catches the eye from across the river. Just in front of the church is the statue of France Prešeren, Slovenia’s beloved national poet, being watched over (a bit dramatically) by a bronze muse floating above him.
From there, we strolled along the river until we reached Dragon Bridge, one of Ljubljana’s most iconic landmarks. The vivid green dragon statues perched on either end have become something of a city mascot, and we couldn’t resist the obligatory photo op—especially with Ted staring it down, both of them locked in a silent challenge.
Afterwards, we wandered into Tivoli Park, a sprawling green space filled with manicured gardens, fountains, and shaded walking paths. It felt a world away from the busy squares, and the calm was a welcome change of pace. It was the kind of place you could imagine returning to with a book and a lazy afternoon.
Eventually, we made our way back toward the bus station. We were a little early, so we sat down for a beer and some chips while waiting for the bus. But, as if on cue, FlixBus was late again—almost an hour this time. We ducked into a nearby Mexican fast-food place called Que Pasa, where I ordered “nachos” that turned out to be plain corn chips with three pots of dip. Not quite culinary brilliance, but it killed time.
So, did we enjoy Ljubljana? Yes. It had some beautiful corners, a lot of interesting contrasts, and a relaxed, lived-in charm. But would we come back? Probably not. It didn’t quite sparkle like some of the other cities we’ve visited on this trip. Still, we’re glad we came — it added a new flavour to the journey, both literally and figuratively.
Tomorrow we’ll pack up once more as the journey home begins. It’s been a wonderful holiday — but we’re also ready for home.Läs mer
Day 25
10 juni 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
After waking up bright and early at 6:30 a.m., we packed up the last of our things and headed out to say goodbye to the friends we’d made on the cruise. Both Ken and Troy, and Kuamane and Nicholas were off to Venice, so we met them down at the Piazza for one last coffee and farewell. One of the reasons we love cruising is how quickly you can form connections in a setting like that — just a couple of weeks, and suddenly these people feel like old travel mates.
We grabbed a quick breakfast at the buffet — “quick” being generous. The whole ship seemed to have the same idea, and it felt more like a chaotic migration than a meal. Our disembarkation time wasn’t until 8:30 a.m., so we weren’t rushed, but I could’ve done without my bright idea to take the elevator instead of the stairs. Of course, it went all the way to the top before stopping at every deck on the way back down.
Once off the ship, we walked about 15–20 minutes through the city to reach our pre-booked apartment. The weather was warm but manageable, with a breeze coming in off the sea. Still, dragging wheeled suitcases over cobblestones and uneven pavements quickly became a workout. By the time we arrived, I was a sweaty mess — equal parts exhausted and annoyed. Thankfully, our host Alessia let us check in early, and things started looking up. The apartment was on the fifth floor, larger than our place in Milan, and had a kind of old-world grandeur. Alessia pointed out how many of the city’s buildings reflect Trieste’s Austro-Hungarian past — arched doorways once built tall enough to let horse-drawn carriages roll right in.
Once we settled in, we popped to a nearby supermarket to grab some essentials, then headed out on foot to explore. Our initial goal was to visit the Roman Theatre, but we were quickly sidetracked by the sheer volume of impressive architecture around us.
At Piazza Unità d’Italia, the scale and symmetry hit you straight away. With the Palazzo del Municipio anchoring one end and the Adriatic Sea framing the other, it’s Europe’s largest seaside square and feels every bit as grand as it sounds. The square is flanked by ornate buildings that speak of Austro-Hungarian pride, none more impressive than the Palazzo del Governo with its Liberty-style mosaics and stately arches, and the Palazzo del Lloyd Triestino — now the regional government building — where maritime sculptures nod to Trieste’s seafaring legacy. The grand Palazzo Generali, once the HQ of one of Italy’s oldest insurance firms, still presides confidently over the cafés that line the waterfront. The whole square feels regal yet relaxed, like a royal courtyard that accidentally became a hangout spot.
From there, we wandered past the Fountain of the Four Continents — a theatrical baroque piece from the 1700s featuring figures meant to represent Europe, Asia, Africa, and the Americas. The sculpted lion, crocodile, and horse perched alongside draped allegorical figures felt a bit like a marble theatre production mid-scene. Just around the corner, we found the Teatro Verdi, a neoclassical beauty that’s been standing since the early 1800s and still hosts operas under its dramatic façade.
We also passed the bronze sculpture of the Maria Theresa thaler — a giant coin bearing the profile of the Austrian empress who played a major role in developing Trieste as a free port. It’s oversized and a little cheeky, but it somehow fits the city’s sense of identity: rooted in empire, open to the world.
Next came the Serbian Orthodox Church of Saint Spyridon. With its five domes and richly detailed mosaics, it was impossible to miss. Built in the 1860s, its Byzantine Revival style is a real standout in a city better known for its neoclassical lines. A short stroll further brought us to the Church of Saint Anthony the Thaumaturge, with its impressive white portico and columns, almost Roman in appearance. It stands at the head of the Grand Canal like a sentry, watching over the pastel façades and café crowds that give the area its distinctly Venetian feel.
We finally made our way to the Roman Theatre, tucked into the edge of the modern city. Built in the 1st century AD under Emperor Trajan, it once held over 3,000 spectators. While it now sits quietly beneath apartment blocks and city traffic, it’s surprisingly well preserved — a reminder of just how far back Trieste’s history stretches. There’s something poetic about seeing ancient stone seats in the middle of a modern metropolis, still waiting for their next performance.
From there, we had one more goal for the afternoon: Miramare Castle. But before jumping on a bus out to the coast, we made a quick food stop. Just off the main drag, we spotted the quirky Maschera Fountain — a stylised theatre mask with water spilling from its tongue. It looks like something out of a surrealist play, but in a city where layers of culture overlap, it didn’t feel out of place.
I grabbed a kebab at Anatolia Kebab 12, mostly because we figured food options near the castle might be limited. Better to refuel now than end up staring longingly at closed snack bars in a royal garden.
We eventually found the correct bus stop — after a bit of back-and-forth across a fairly lively road — and managed to hop on just in time. What we didn’t manage to do was buy a ticket. I tried the app, Ted had a go at the onboard machine, and neither of us had any success. So we rode… accidentally free.
The ride out to Miramare Castle was scenic, skimming along the coast. And then the castle itself appeared — straight out of a fairytale. Built in the 1860s for Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Austria (who went on to become Emperor of Mexico, albeit briefly), the white limestone palace sits perched above the Gulf of Trieste with sweeping views and meticulously maintained gardens. We skipped the interiors, choosing instead to wander through the grounds. Sculpted hedges, fountains, grand staircases, and more than one dramatically posed horse statue — it was all every bit as impressive as the photos make it out to be.
Naturally, a gelato followed. You’re in Italy, it’s hot, there’s a castle behind you — it would’ve been rude not to.
On our way out, we bumped into the Southwest flight attendants from the ship — again. We’d already farewelled them that morning, then again just outside the terminal… and now here they were strolling near the castle. Deidre Chambers, what a coincidence!
Getting back into town involved another unsuccessful attempt at the ticket machine, which meant a second free-ish ride. We returned to the apartment for a well-earned breather before heading out again.
After relaxing back at the apartment, we decided it was time to find some dinner — without a plan, just a wander and see what called to us. Despite how much we’d already covered today, we somehow stumbled across more hidden gems — including seeing the impressive Palazzo della Borsa Vecchia (Old Stock Exchange) again, now housing the Chamber of Commerce. Its neoclassical columns and striking Neptune fountain out front made us stop for another round of photos. It’s like the city just keeps revealing layers the longer you walk it.
After a bit more wandering, we found ourselves at a place called Njoy — the words “burgers, burritos and tacos” on the menu made the decision easy. But the biggest surprise wasn’t the food — it was spotting The Americans again. What are the odds? Deidre Chambers would be proud.
They’re heading to Venice tomorrow, and we’re off to Ljubljana, so unless the universe is really playing games, that was probably our final run-in.
Since the evening still had some life in it, we wandered a little more, soaking up the glow of the city before stopping (yes, again) for gelato and picking up a few essentials at the supermarket.
Trieste turned out to be a real surprise. When I first started planning this trip, I’d thought about skipping it entirely in favour of somewhere more obvious like Venice. But I’m so glad we came here instead. It’s elegant without being overrun, full of history without being staged, and has a charm that feels both grand and relaxed.
Tomorrow: a day trip across the border to Slovenia — another new stamp on the travel list.Läs mer
Day 24
9 juni 2025, Kroatien ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
After a surprisingly decent night’s sleep (a rare gem this deep into a cruise), I decided to take advantage of one last chance to enjoy breakfast in the dining room, while Ted stayed loyal to the buffet. I also made a tactical outfit choice today — gym clothes instead of regular ones. After the sweltering heat in Kotor, I wasn’t taking any chances. Bonus: no laundry needed later.
Once again, we were among the first to disembark, stepping into our 70th country for me and 66th for Ted — a stat we’re both quietly thrilled about. The heat greeted us early, though thankfully not nearly as intense as the scorcher we endured in Montenegro. Our initial walk from the cruise terminal to the heart of Split wasn’t exactly inspiring — a stretch of modern, utilitarian buildings — but once we reached the Old Town, everything changed.
Split’s Old Town is centred around the ruins of Diocletian’s Palace, built in the 4th century AD as a retirement home for the Roman emperor himself. It’s more than just a historic site — it’s a living, breathing part of the city, with shops, cafés, apartments, and even churches embedded into the ancient stonework. We wandered into Peristyle Square, where Roman columns and arches frame the square like a movie set. Nearby stands the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, considered the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world still holding its original structure. Its bell tower soared above the square, casting long shadows over the cobbled plaza below.
Next, we made our way to Republic Square (Prokurative), a bold and elegant plaza with red Venetian-style facades and arched walkways opening onto the sea. It was peaceful in the morning but apparently comes alive in summer with open-air concerts and performances.
Keen for a panoramic view, we took the scenic stair route up to a lookout on Marjan Hill, known as the “lungs of Split” for its pine-covered slopes. The climb was steep, but the sweeping views — terracotta rooftops, the Adriatic Sea, and our cruise ship docked in the harbour — were well worth it. We descended via Boticevo šetalište, a shaded path lined with pine trees and glimpses of the sea.
Back at the base, we arrived at the Riva promenade, a breezy, palm-lined stretch perfect for people-watching. We cooled off with iced coffees at Brasserie on Seven, a stylish waterfront café popular with both locals and visitors. With yachts and fishing boats bobbing in the marina just metres away, it was pure Mediterranean magic.
Tucked into a quieter corner, we came across the statue of Marko Marulić, the “father of Croatian literature,” and later admired the enormous bronze sculpture of Gregory of Nin — a 10th-century bishop believed to bring good luck if you rub his toe.
Before heading back, we took one last stroll through the palace corridors and explored some local markets, full of fresh fruit, souvenirs, and tempting little trinkets. Once again, we were thankful for our early start — the crowds had grown thick, the heat heavier, and we passed several cruise friends just setting out as we were wrapping up.
All aboard was set for 3:30 p.m., and with so many still out wandering the laneways, I imagine a few made a very close call. As for us, we returned to the ship feeling like we’d made the most of Split — without the chaos.
So in other words… once the heat and crowds became oppressive, we decided it was time to split from Split. (Sorry. Couldn’t resist.)
After getting back onboard, Ted managed to reserve one of the cabanas in the Hollywood Conservatory — hands down one of the best places to unwind on the ship. Quiet, spacious, and with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the sea, it’s a great spot to kick back and take in the view without the usual deck crowds.
Eventually, we made our way back to the room to shower and begin the inevitable task of packing up for disembarkation tomorrow. We kept things relaxed — throwing clothes into suitcases, watching a few episodes of Modern Family on the ship’s internal channel, and soaking in the last of our balcony views over Split.
As the ship pulled away from the port, the familiar Love Boat theme played over the loudspeakers — something Princess Cruises does for every departure. A little cheesy? Sure. But with a nod to the classic cast via a plaque onboard and reruns available 24/7, it’s part of the cruise’s charm and tradition. And after two weeks aboard, it’s hard not to smile at the sound.
Later on, we met up with Kuamane and Nicholas for drinks by the Hollywood Pool, enjoying the warm evening air. Then it was on to Bellini’s for another round with Troy and Ken before all four of us grabbed dinner together at Alfredo’s Pizzeria. It was the perfect low-key send-off to what’s been a pretty incredible trip at sea.
We’ve had a great time on this cruise — plenty of laughs, new places, and good company. But with Trieste waiting for us tomorrow, we’re both ready for the next leg of the journey. Time to swap waves for wheels and see what’s next.Läs mer
Day 23
8 juni 2025, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
After a string of late nights (and maybe one too many cocktails), sleep last night was patchy at best. But the second we drew back the curtains in our stateroom, it didn’t matter. We were gliding through the Bay of Kotor, flanked by misty peaks and waterside villages that looked as if they’d been carved into the mountains. It felt like a déjà vu moment from our trip through the Norwegian fjords last year — and sure enough, Kotor is often called the southernmost fjord in Europe. (Technically, it’s a ria, or a submerged river canyon, but let’s not get too pedantic when the views are this good.)
Still groggy, we headed up for a quick breakfast in the buffet — but not before stepping out on deck to take some videos of the surroundings. There’s something about seeing this place in motion: the scale, the stillness, the way the light hits the water. It’s the kind of setting you want to remember.
This stop also marked a personal milestone — country #69 for me and #65 for Ted. We’ve both done a fair bit of travel, but ticking off new countries still feels just as special. We followed our now well-rehearsed strategy of disembarking early to beat the crowds and the heat. Kotor is the only port on this cruise that requires a water shuttle, but the 15-minute ride was smooth and scenic. Bonus: since the lifeboat that usually blocks our balcony was lowered earlier that morning, we finally had an unobstructed view from our cabin.
As soon as we stepped onto dry land, we were approached by a swarm of tour vendors — but we already knew what we wanted to do: ride the new cable car to the top of Mount Lovćen. The ticket package, which included a return transfer and gondola ride, cost €30 — more than we expected, but we hoped the views would justify it.
Before heading off, we took a quick stroll through Kotor’s UNESCO-listed Old Town. Even with only a few steps inside, we were struck by its well-preserved Venetian walls, medieval churches, and cobbled alleys. But with the first shuttle to the gondola base leaving at 9 a.m., we didn’t linger long — especially since we wanted to get ahead of the wave of cruise excursions.
The gondola ride itself was a surprise. It stretched far higher and longer than we expected, lifting us up around 850 metres in just 15 minutes. The view was breathtaking — the entire bay spread out below like a painting, with the cruise ship tiny in the distance and Kotor’s red rooftops hugging the shoreline.
At the summit, we were greeted by a surprisingly modern mountaintop development. Though some parts weren’t quite open yet, there were plenty of clear signs pointing to cafés, walking tracks, a large amphitheatre (still unsure what that’s used for), and — unexpectedly — a summer toboggan run. It’s an alpine coaster that twists down the mountain on rails. It definitely added to the sense that this mountaintop was still being shaped into something special.
We made our way to the viewing platforms, which required a bit of a clamber over rocky terrain — no fences, no paved paths, and certainly no health and safety tape! But the payoff was worth it. The views were panoramic and unfiltered, and we had them almost to ourselves.
With the restaurant now open, we stopped in at Forza for an iced coffee. Or so we thought. Our charmingly handsome waiter returned with two espressos and a bowl of ice cream — something got lost in translation. But honestly? Sitting cliffside with that view, we weren’t complaining.
After soaking it all in, we caught the gondola back down — and the timing couldn’t have been better. Crowds were now streaming in. We shared a ride with an American couple and their Montenegrin guide and swapped travel stories the whole way down. When we returned to the base, we expected to wait half an hour for the next return shuttle. But just as we were debating whether to sit or wander, the driver strolled over, opened the doors just for us, and even stopped along the way to grab himself some lunch. No stress — just laid-back Balkan efficiency.
Back in Kotor’s Old Town, the difference was stark — it was now packed and hot. Still, we enjoyed another wander through the cobbled laneways, past centuries-old churches, stone archways, and market stalls. Every old town has its own personality, and Kotor’s blend of history, mountain drama, and seaside calm felt totally unique.
We looped along the waterfront, past the towering walls and steep switchbacks of St. John’s Fortress — which we admired from sea level rather than attempting the sweaty climb — before making our way back to the water shuttle. As if on cue, it pulled away just minutes after we boarded.
Back onboard, we made the most of the quiet ship: laundry (the glamour never ends), long showers to rinse off the heat, and a quick lunch before collapsing into a well-earned nap. Later in the afternoon, we headed upstairs one last time to farewell Kotor properly — and what a farewell it was. The views from the top deck as we sailed out of the bay were absolutely stunning: golden light pouring over mountain peaks, glassy water reflecting the fading day, and everyone seemingly on the same wavelength — drink in hand, swapping travel stories, and throwing in a few dramatic complaints about the heat for good measure. Montenegro, you’ve made quite the impression.
Dinner was at the buffet again, where we indulged a little more than necessary — par for the course by now. Ted headed back to the room to catch the French Open (a new cruise obsession), while I popped over to Bellini’s for a nightcap and some great company. I caught up with Troy and Ken first, then later Kuamane and Nicholas — so the evening ended just the way it began: with laughter, great conversation, and a few too many refills (but not for me!).
Tomorrow, we tick off yet another new country for both of us — Croatia! Can’t wait to see what’s in store.Läs mer
Day 22
7 juni 2025, Grekland ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
After a solid night’s sleep (thank you, Dramamine), I woke up feeling human again for the first time in days. We headed to the buffet for breakfast and, since we’d arrived in Corfu, packed up and made our way off the ship not long after.
At first, we thought we had to wait — people were milling around the café on Deck 5, making it look like disembarkation wasn’t open yet. But it turns out we could go, and we ended up being the only ones lined up at the gangway! One thing Princess has done consistently well on this cruise is handling boarding and disembarkation — it’s always smooth and congestion-free.
After stepping off, we were immediately herded onto shuttle buses… which drove us all of 50 metres to the terminal. From there, things got chaotic. Another cruise ship was docked, and the terminal was a mess of queues — some for excursions, others for the ferry to Albania — with zero signage or staff to guide anyone.
We eventually came across one of the buses heading to the Old Town, but at €15 per person for a two-kilometre trip — automatically charged to your onboard account — we swiftly declined. Turns out we weren’t the only ones. A group of Australians just ahead of us discovered a local Corfu bus around the next block doing the exact same journey for just €2. Naturally, we followed.
Once we arrived at the Old Town, Ted immediately recognised the streets from his 1996 Contiki trip. I’d also been there in ’96 — on a different Contiki tour — but strangely, nothing about it jogged my memory. One thing we both noticed: the city felt a bit worn down. There were plenty of crumbling buildings, peeling paint, and it seemed like very little had been done in terms of upkeep or restoration. It still had charm — it’s Greece, after all — but the rough edges were noticeable.
We walked down toward the waterfront and found ourselves looking across the Contrafossa (a seawater moat) at the Old Fortress (Palaio Frourio) — an imposing Venetian structure from the 15th century. The views from the perimeter were stunning, especially with the sunlight dancing off the Ionian Sea and casting a golden glow on the fortress walls.
From there, we made our way toward the Palace of St. Michael and St. George — a neoclassical beauty built during the British occupation in the early 1800s. It once housed the British Lord High Commissioner and now serves as the Museum of Asian Art. The surrounding Garden of the People was a highlight — peaceful, shady, and offering sweeping views of the coastline. We probably took twice as many photos here as anywhere else that morning.
We spotted a restaurant down by the water called En Plo, and it looked too perfect to pass up. I don’t usually drink in the morning, but sitting under a tree with a cold beer and that view? Felt like a postcard. I did have to wait a little before taking my shot of the restaurant — a man with a comically hairy back was sunbaking nearby, and I wasn’t ready for that kind of visual. Ted ordered a glass of local white wine which, according to him, tasted vaguely like cask wine — but the view made up for it. At one point, a full-blown pirate ship floated past — tourist gimmick, sure, but fun to watch all the same.
Afterwards, we made our way back up through the town, winding through the cobbled laneways and markets. Prices were definitely cruise-ship-adjacent, but the little shops were fun to browse — blue-and-white ceramics, embroidered fabrics, and local knick-knacks all under the lazy watch of café cats.
Eventually, we caught the same trusty €2 bus back to the port — just in time for lunch. We didn’t have a big checklist today, and that was exactly the point. It was great to revisit a place we’d both seen on separate trips in 1996, now together, with time to take it slow.
Back on board, we went straight to the buffet — right on schedule. We’ve nailed a solid routine now: disembark early, beat the heat and the crowds, and return just in time to avoid the buffet rush. Gold stars all around.
The afternoon was blissfully quiet. I tried to nap until the Captain made a full-ship PA (don’t ask me what he said — I was half asleep). Tonight, Ted had booked us into the formal dining room, which we hadn’t tried yet. While the buffet offers more variety, there’s something luxurious about sitting down, being served, and choosing from a printed menu.
We were seated between two young guys who didn’t say a word (a couple? friends? an accidental vow of silence?), and a couple from Vancouver who were much chattier. Swapping travel stories with them was a highlight.
After dinner, we wandered back to Bellini’s for a drink. The downside of a 6 p.m. dinner? Most of our cruise friends were still eating. Luckily, we caught up with them later — but not before catching the evening’s theatre show featuring Chris and Iona, a married acrobat duo who were genuinely impressive.
Once the whole group reunited, we spent the rest of the evening chatting, laughing, and drinking. So much for my early night… we didn’t get to bed until well after midnight. Thankfully, we gained an hour of sleep as we crossed into a new time zone.
Tomorrow, we arrive in a brand-new country for both of us: Kotor, Montenegro.Läs mer
Day 21
6 juni 2025, Ionian Sea ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Despite having a fairly late night, I still woke up at my usual time — apparently, my body now operates entirely around cruise ship buffet hours. Ted and I went to the buffet again for breakfast, which has become our go-to. He’s not keen on the dining room thanks to the limited diabetic-friendly options, and honestly, I don’t blame him.
As we were leaving, we witnessed something you never see on a Princess ship: a fight. Amongst the chefs, no less! A full-blown shouting match right outside the galley. Bit of a jarring contrast to the usual “have a nice day” energy you get from the staff, but I suppose even the calmest kitchens have their boiling points.
With the stateroom being cleaned, we made our way to the sun deck to relax — but the wind had other plans. So we retreated to the Hollywood Pool area instead, where the breeze was tamer and the scenery was very good, if you know what I mean.
I tried to nap during the afternoon (still paying the price for my restless night), but my body had other plans there, too. I eventually gave up and wandered down to the medical centre to see if they could give me something for the insomnia. After navigating my way through the maze that is Deck 4, I finally found it — only to be told that appointments started at $150.
Last time I visited a medical centre on a cruise ship, it was free! Times have changed. No way was I about to fork out that kind of money just to be told I need some warm milk and whale noises. The receptionist suggested Dramamine, which can apparently make you drowsy — so I might give that a go before bed.
We chilled in the room until dinner and then got dolled up for formal night (again). We met up with Ken, Troy, Kuamane, and Nicholas at Bellini’s for pre-dinner drinks, before heading off in our separate directions for dinner. Ted and I, despite our outfits, ended up back at the buffet (and ate way too much). We’ve promised ourselves the formal restaurant tomorrow.
After dinner, we wandered the ship a bit more and even checked out one of the comedy shows — which turned out not to be our thing, but at least we gave it a go. Eventually, we called it a night and headed back to the room.
Tomorrow we arrive in Corfu, Greece — a fun twist, because both Ted and I have been before, but separately, and both in 1996 on different Contiki tours! The funny thing is that Corfu wasn’t originally on this cruise’s itinerary; we were meant to go to Dubrovnik, but “port congestion” bumped us to Corfu instead. Bit of a bummer, but we’re rolling with it.
Corfu, we’re coming for you — again!Läs mer
Day 20
5 juni 2025, Grekland ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C
The day didn’t exactly start on the best note — I’d had a terrible night’s sleep and couldn’t quite figure out why. Maybe it was my brain ticking through a mental to-do list like a metronome in overdrive. Either way, I wasn’t feeling 100%. But after a quick breakfast in the buffet, it was time to rally and head out to explore our next country: Greece.
Since the ship was docked at Souda, a shuttle took us to Chania, about 20 minutes away. The drop-off point wasn’t exactly inspiring — we were left in a residential area, which had us wondering if we’d missed a turn somewhere. But we decided to keep walking and see what we could find.
The Old Town at first glance didn’t wow us either — more “crumbly ruins” than “storybook charm.” But we kept going… and thankfully, we found the good stuff. Once we reached the waterfront, Chania finally started to show off. The Venetian Harbour opened up ahead — colourful facades, fishing boats gently rocking, and cats stretched out like they owned the place. It was calm, warm, and felt like a completely different town.
We strolled the harbour, wandered through the old Venetian fortress, and took enough photos of the lighthouse to open our own postcard stand. Eventually we stopped at a café to regroup, and I decided to embrace the Greek moment with an iced coffee and a slice of baklava… which looked like it could feed a small village. I gave it my best shot, but even I have limits when it comes to honey and pastry.
As the heat cranked up and the tour groups started flooding in, we felt like we’d seen the best of Chania, so we took the bus back to the ship for some reprieve.
Back onboard, we had lunch at the buffet (yes, again), then enjoyed some R&R. It was a sea of lounge chairs and quiet time until dinner — which, you guessed it, was also at the buffet. We clearly know what we like.
Later in the evening, we headed to the back deck for drinks and a proper farewell to Crete. We ended up running into some of the American group we’d met on night one — Gloria and Megan were there first, soon joined by Tom, Doug, and Kim. They’re mostly retired or current flight attendants from Southwest Airlines, and always good company.
After that catch-up, we went for another wander around the ship and then bumped into Kuamane and Nicholas. The four of us headed to Bellini’s for more drinks and laughs. I was completely running on fumes by that point after the sleepless night, so I eventually tapped out just after midnight.
Tomorrow’s a sea day — and I’m very ready for a proper sleep-in.Läs mer
Day 19
4 juni 2025, Mediterranean Sea ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Today was a much-needed sea day — a perfect excuse to slow the pace after a few busy port stops. We lost an hour overnight due to the time zone change, which would’ve been fine if any of our devices had bothered to update themselves. But in the middle of the Mediterranean, with no signal, even your phone gives up.
This morning I decided to mix things up and have breakfast in the dining room instead of the buffet. It was a good call. Table service meant no food scrambles or long waits for specialty juice and coffee. The whole experience was smoother — and quieter — which definitely helped ease into the day.
Later, I had a bit of a moment back in the cabin. After everything that happened in Budapest when Ted lost his wedding ring, I glanced at my own hand and noticed mine was missing. Cue a full search: under the bed, through drawers, even inside the safe. About half an hour later, I found it — on my right hand. Safe to say it was not my sharpest hour.
I also tackled some laundry today since the laundry room is just across the hall. But timing is everything — I left my bag next to a machine while I went to get a token, and when I turned around, an older gentleman had already taken it. He was quick. Luckily, I didn’t have to wait long for the next one, but let’s just say ship laundry is a contact sport.
Most of the day was spent trying to relax, though this ship doesn’t exactly have quiet corners. Unlike some previous cruises, there’s no real library or chill-out lounge. The Hollywood Pool area feels like a meat locker, the bars are too loud, and even our balcony isn’t ideal thanks to chatty neighbours who love a cigarette. Reading in peace? Easier said than done.
We went for afternoon drinks at Bellini’s and caught up with the friendly group of American flight attendants we’d met on night one. Nicholas and Kuamane joined us shortly after, and although we’d originally planned to try one of the specialty restaurants for dinner, we ended up joining them at Crown Grill instead. While it wasn’t covered by our package and required dipping into our onboard credit, the company made up for it. Food options were a bit limited for me as a vegetarian, but it was still a nice night out.
After dinner, we caught another show in the theatre — this time, Fantastic Journey. Think drones, LED suits, soaring vocals, and enough production value to rival a Vegas residency. Definitely a high-tech spectacle and a fun way to cap off a relaxed day.
We didn’t stay out too late — Chania, Crete awaits in the morning.Läs mer
Day 18
3 juni 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
After a solid night’s sleep, Ted and I got ourselves up and ready for the day. I made a new rule for myself—no more pastry-heavy breakfasts for the rest of the cruise. The first few days were basically a carb parade, and while I have no regrets, I’m not keen on starting every morning like I’ve just pre-gamed for a marathon. So today was the first “healthy breakfast day.” We’ll see how long that lasts.
Stepping off the ship in Valletta, we were met with a warm breeze and blue skies—the kind of weather you hope for when docking in the Mediterranean. Right away, we set our sights on the Upper Barrakka Gardens, perched high above the Grand Harbour. As we were mentally preparing for the uphill trek, we spotted a sign offering a return elevator ride to the top for just €1. It was a no-brainer.
The lift dropped us off just steps away from one of the best views in Malta. The Upper Barrakka Gardens date back to the 17th century, when they were constructed by the Knights of St. John as private gardens for Italian knights. Now open to the public, they offer panoramic views over the Grand Harbour, with sweeping vistas of the Three Cities, the cruise port, and the fortifications. With tree-lined paths, fountains, and a scattering of statues—including one of Winston Churchill—it’s an ideal place to catch your breath or pretend you’re in an old spy movie. We took a few shots of the ship looking postcard-perfect from up there.
From there, we wandered into Valletta’s city centre, walking down Republic Street and Merchant Street, both packed with energy. The streets are flanked by limestone buildings with traditional Maltese balconies—painted in every shade of green and tucked into buildings like architectural earrings. Ted and I passed Auberge de Castille, which serves as the Prime Minister’s office these days, but was originally built for the Spanish knights. The building is peak Baroque swagger, complete with sculpted stone, crests, and a fountain out the front for dramatic effect.
We also passed the Grandmaster’s Palace, once home to the rulers of the Knights of Malta and today the seat of Malta’s President. It’s a chunk of serious history that dates back to the 1500s and still holds some impressive armoury and staterooms behind its façade.
At the edge of the city gates, we stopped by the Triton Fountain, where three bronze figures (that look like muscular mermen) are hoisting up a giant bowl. Completed in the 1950s, the fountain has become one of Valletta’s most recognisable landmarks—and honestly, it kind of steals the show at the main entrance. We grabbed a few photos before the tour groups moved in.
Ted was keen to revisit St. Julian’s, a place we remembered fondly from our last visit years ago. We attempted to install a travel app to help navigate the buses but gave up after a few failed attempts and just hopped on one of the public buses heading that way. The ride took us past Sliema, which has evolved into a sleek, modern neighbourhood—lots of glass-fronted apartments and a pretty harbour full of small boats.
Eventually, we made it to St. Julian’s, and if we’d thought Sliema had changed, St. Julian’s had practically been given a whole new identity. What we remembered about Paceville as a slightly sleepy neighbourhood with local shops and low-key charm has become Malta’s unofficial nightlife district. Glass towers, mega clubs, shopping centres—it was giving more “South Beach” than seaside village. Definitely not how we remembered it.
Trying to avoid the neon-and-beach-club vibe, we found a decent place—Cuba Café—where we sat down for iced coffees, chips, and guacamole. It was a solid pit stop, and the view over the bay, even with the new development, was still worth sitting down for.
Given the slow-moving traffic and questionable air-con on the buses, we decided to grab an Uber back to Valletta. It was a smart move. Once we got back to the capital, we explored a few more side streets before beginning the downhill walk to the cruise port.
Along the way, we stumbled across an old Bedford bus, now painted silver and burgundy and rebranded as a “Souvenir Bus.” When we were here years ago, these retro buses were the actual public transport. Seeing one now parked as a photo prop was a bit odd, but also oddly satisfying. The chrome details and curvy lines made it look like something out of a 1950s road trip movie.
One thing I should mention—I’ve had a bit of a skin reaction from sunscreen earlier in the trip, so today I made the very sensible choice to carry an umbrella. I’m not saying I looked like a Victorian-era widow walking the streets of Valletta, but I probably wasn’t far off. Function over fashion.
The walk down to the ship followed a winding road with some fantastic views of the harbour. The Majestic Princess was gleaming in the sunlight, anchored like some kind of floating fortress. It felt good to climb back aboard, especially knowing a buffet lunch was waiting for us.
The rest of the afternoon was more low-key—we chilled out for a while and then met up with Nick and Kuamane, the two American guys from San Diego. Not long after, we bumped into Troy and Ken again, and the four of us made it into an impromptu happy hour (or two).
Dinner was at the buffet again—not quite haute cuisine, but after a few drinks and a full day of exploring, it hit the spot. We ended the night by watching one of the ship’s interactive game shows, Majority Rules, where the audience votes on answers. Think trivia meets groupthink. It was the right balance of silly and social, and the perfect way to wrap up the day.Läs mer
Day 17
2 juni 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
We were up early today and off the ship by 8:30 a.m., not long after docking in Messina. As soon as we stepped onto dry land, we were greeted by the usual swarm of local hawkers offering everything from taxi rides to full-blown excursions — and, of course, seats on a very tired-looking hop-on hop-off bus. We politely declined all offers, along with the now-routine photo ops the cruise ship staff insist on every time we disembark. (Yesterday, they tried to tempt us with a photo next to someone in a bear costume — which was more confusing than anything. What exactly does a bear have to do with Naples?)
Messina felt like a breath of fresh air. Smaller, quieter, and far more compact than Naples, it was the kind of place that made sense to explore on foot. And thankfully, the temperature—though similar to yesterday—felt much more comfortable thanks to a constant, cooling breeze. We later learned it was Festa della Repubblica, Italy’s national day, which helped explain the calm streets, shut shops, and generally mellow atmosphere. The whole city felt like it had exhaled.
We started with the Duomo di Messina, the city’s grand cathedral, built in creamy-pink stone and flanked by twin towers. Rebuilt several times due to earthquakes and WWII bombings, the structure you see today is a meticulous restoration of the original 12th-century Norman design. The adjacent astronomical clock is one of the largest in the world and was built by a Strasbourg company in 1933. Even when it’s not in motion, the gilded lions, cockerels, and religious figures standing in niches high above the square are incredible to look at. Just out the front is the Fountain of Orion, carved in the 1500s by a student of Michelangelo. It’s dedicated to the mythical founder of the city and features sea creatures, tritons, and symbols of the region’s four rivers—basically a Baroque fever dream in marble.
A bit further along, we visited the Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani. It’s a mouthful to say, but the church itself is fascinating. Built in the 12th century, it showcases Arab-Norman architecture, a style unique to Sicily that blends Byzantine, Islamic, and Romanesque influences. The church sits below modern street level, giving you the sense of descending into history. It’s one of the few buildings to have survived the 1908 earthquake, which makes its survival all the more impressive.
Next came the climb. We tackled the long staircase up to the Santuario della Madonna di Montalto, built on the spot where, according to local legend, the Virgin Mary intervened during the city’s medieval siege. The sanctuary is peaceful and solid, perched above the bustle with views out over the rooftops, sea, and ship-filled port. At the edge of the plaza stands a statue of Pope John Paul II, his arms stretched outward in quiet benediction.
From there, we wandered over to the Santuario di Cristo Re, with its grand dome and sweeping view of the Strait of Messina. Beneath the church is a war memorial, with an eternal flame guarded by bronze lions.
We descended toward the Fountain of Neptune, one of the city’s boldest and most dramatic landmarks. Designed in 1557, it shows Neptune in a power stance, trident raised, subduing two sea monsters that represent the dangers of the strait. Neptune’s backside is nothing short of sculpted perfection—this guy’s glutes are carved like they were auditioning for a Renaissance cologne ad. After all the religious iconography and domes of the morning, it was a nice surprise to round out the walk.
We strolled back along the marina, passing rows of yachts and fishing boats gently rocking in the water. It was a great way to wind down the morning, and we were more than ready for lunch once we re-boarded.
Later, while relaxing in the ship’s restaurant having lunch, something unusual caught my eye: a thin plume of smoke rising on the horizon. I checked Google Maps and realised it was coming from the direction of Mount Etna, and sure enough, a quick search confirmed that the volcano was erupting again. You could clearly see the ash plume drifting high into the sky from our vantage point on the water. There was something otherworldly about eating while watching one of Europe’s most active volcanoes casually go about its business in the background.
After lunch, we relaxed in the Hollywood Pool area—a bright, airy spot beneath a retractable glass dome. It had a bit of a grown-up vibe, with whirlpools, loungers, and the soft hum of background music drifting over the water. We decided to join a game of trivia for something different. We managed 11 out of 20—not exactly champion material, but not bad either. We nailed questions on world capitals but totally blanked on who won Eurovision.
Later in the afternoon, we headed back to the cabin to shower and get dressed for dinner. As we stepped out, we heard a PA announcement reminding passengers that tonight was formal night on board. We didn’t think much of it until we passed one of the higher decks overlooking the atrium and saw everyone dressed up to the nines. Cue the quickest 180 of the trip—we returned to the cabin, Ted ironed our shirts and jackets in the laundry across the hall, and we emerged again twenty minutes later, far more appropriately dressed.
The ship had transformed. The atrium was buzzing—champagne flutes in hand, couples dancing to live music, and passengers soaking up the occasion like it was a floating ballroom. We caught up with two American guys from San Diego who Ted had met earlier—they’re here with a big group of friends—and had a round of drinks with them before they headed off for dinner. Not long after, we ran into Troy and Ken again and were easily talked into staying for several more drinks. We ended up eating dinner afterwards at the buffet, still in our formalwear. Not quite the white-tablecloth evening you’d expect when wearing a jacket.
Before we could call it a night, we bumped into one of the San Diego group again who told us a show called Encore was about to start in the theatre and asked if we wanted to join her. We did—and I’m glad we went. It was a really colourful and high-energy production with everything from Broadway numbers to opera. Being in the front row definitely added to the atmosphere.
Tomorrow we dock in Valletta, Malta — a place we haven’t visited in 14 years. Looking forward to seeing how it’s changed… or if it hasn’t at all.Läs mer
Day 16
1 juni 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We had a surprisingly good sleep last night thanks to the blackout curtains in our stateroom — despite a couple of interruptions. Around 2 a.m., the Captain made an emergency PA asking for a blood donor, and later in the night, the sound of slamming doors didn’t help. Still, it was enough to wake up feeling fairly rested.
After a solid buffet breakfast, we packed up and got ready to explore Naples. That was slightly delayed because we couldn’t actually find the way out of the cruise terminal — it felt like a maze! This is our second visit to Naples, and to be honest, we weren’t especially excited. Last time was just an overnight stop before heading to Sorrento, and our impression of Naples was far from glowing — graffiti, chaos, and relentless traffic. But this time, we decided to give the city a proper shot, hoping to find something we’d missed.
Once off the ship, the heat hit us hard — it was the first official day of summer, and it felt like it. Right at the port, we saw a stand for a hop-on hop-off bus tour. Normally we steer clear of those, but given the heat and our so-so opinion of the city, we figured it was worth a try. And we’re actually glad we did.
The company offered two different routes included in the one ticket: Luoghi dell’Arte, which focuses on the inner city, and Le Vedute del Golfo, which follows the coastline. After grabbing our tickets, we walked about five minutes to the bus depot near the port. We couldn’t help but laugh when one tourist couple, confused by the directions, climbed aboard the static display bus instead of the real one.
We started with Line A, the city route. Honestly? It didn’t do much to change our original view of Naples. The same overwhelming graffiti, dense traffic, and general chaos were still front and centre. That said, it was worth seeing the city with fresh eyes, and we disembarked at the end of the loop to explore on foot.
From the bus depot, we walked back toward the Galleria Umberto I. It’s less crowded than Milan’s version, but just as stunning — with an ornate glass dome and elegant architecture. The stores are more everyday than designer-heavy, which made it feel more accessible. From there, we wandered down Via Toledo, weaving in and out of side alleys filled with character and people, and even squeezed in a little shopping (Ted found H&M!).
After a bit of browsing and people-watching, we returned to Via Medina to rejoin the route and start Line B – Le Vedute del Golfo. That’s where the real magic of Naples kicked in.
This coastal route was hands-down our favourite. It felt like a completely different city. Suddenly, Naples was all sweeping views, lemon trees, faded pastel buildings hugging the cliffs, and a dramatic view of Mount Vesuvius rising like a myth over the bay. You could see how someone could fall in love with this version of Naples. Even though traffic was still hectic, the slower pace of the ride let us really take in the landscape.
We both agreed that while we could picture ourselves living in most of the places we’ve visited so far — Budapest, Milan, even sleepy Varenna or down-to-earth Lecco — Naples just didn’t give us that feeling. There’s a rawness here that’s unique, but it lacks the kind of energy or comfort we’ve found elsewhere. Not bad, just different.
We made it back to the port just in time for a late lunch on board. Despite our initial expectations, we were really glad we gave Naples a second chance. The hop-on hop-off bus wasn’t just convenient — it helped us see two completely different sides of the city. One a little chaotic, one breathtakingly beautiful.
Back on board, we spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the ship — something we surprisingly hadn’t had a chance to do yet. To be honest, the layout of this Princess ship doesn’t exactly flow. Corridors end abruptly, signs are sparse, and it’s surprisingly easy to get turned around. Hopefully it gets easier to navigate over the next ten days; otherwise, we might rack up more steps trying to find the buffet than we do ashore.
That said, we did stumble across some pretty cool spots while we were wandering. One of them was the ship’s day spa, where a lovely staff member gave us a quick tour. The space itself was sleek and serene, with treatment rooms overlooking the water and loungers set up like a wellness retreat at sea. She even gave us a demo of a high-end skin procedure called Thermage — non-invasive, no downtime, and apparently lifts everything but your mood even higher. It sounded fantastic… until she mentioned it would cost about $5,000 AUD per person. Needless to say, we smiled, nodded, and quietly backed away before our wallets burst into flames.
On a more budget-friendly note, we also found the SeaWalk — a glass-floored walkway that juts out over the edge of the ship. Walking across it, with nothing but ocean beneath your feet, is a little unnerving at first, but the views are absolutely worth it. We also discovered the Hollywood Conservatory, a peaceful, sunlit lounge filled with greenery, cozy seating, and panoramic windows looking out to sea. It felt like a floating garden hideaway — not a bad place to accidentally end up in.
In the evening, I caught up with Troy and Ken again for a few drinks. And in classic Qantas fashion — the aviation world proved to be tiny. Turns out we all know a bunch of the same people, including our Adelaide friends Shane and Ash. It’s always mind-blowing meeting strangers who feel like familiar connections once you start talking shop.
Ted and I aren’t exactly big drinkers, but it’s definitely a perk having the drinks package. There’s something relaxing about being able to enjoy a cocktail or two without doing maths in your head about whether it’s “worth it” or not.
Tomorrow, we hit a new destination: Sicily! Looking forward to seeing what this island has in store.Läs mer
Day 15
31 maj 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
After a solid sleep (finally!), we had breakfast in the room, packed up our last few things, and made our way to Milano Centrale. We were early — no surprise there, it’s a flight attendant habit that dies hard. The station itself is enormous, with its soaring marble arches and cavernous halls that feel more like a cathedral than a train station. It was already buzzing with passengers, announcements, and the usual mild chaos of people trying to find the right platform.
We grabbed a coffee in the food court we’d scouted the other day and sat down in the waiting area for about an hour. While Ted ducked off to get something, an older Italian woman strolled up, moved his bag off the public bench, and sat down without saying a word — no questions, no hesitation. She clearly believed in the “first come, first sit” rule, bag or no bag.
Our train to Rome was the Frecciarossa — sleek, fast, and comfortable. The trip took around three hours, and although we were served a snack and water onboard, I wandered down to the dining car and grabbed a sandwich, coffee, and juice combo. Smooth ride, decent Wi-Fi, and plenty of legroom made it feel more like business class on rails.
Once we arrived at Roma Termini, we didn’t want to risk leaving the platform area and dealing with ticket re-entry, so we waited on the side until our connecting train to Civitavecchia. While we sat there, we watched a surly guy getting arrested (which involved some serious shouting), and then a woman came by handing out religious notes. No pitch or donation ask — just a handoff and quick blessing before moving on.
Our second train, the Frecciabianca, was noticeably older — dim lighting, tired upholstery, and definitely lacking the polish of the Frecciarossa. But the journey was short (just over an hour), so no complaints. Once we arrived in Civitavecchia, we paused for a moment to decide whether to take a taxi or walk to the cruise terminal. We chose wrong.
Even though the ship looked deceptively close, the walk took well over half an hour — dragging our bags under the warm sun, dodging traffic and fences, with very little signage to guide us. Eventually, we reached a checkpoint with a shuttle to the terminal, which we should’ve just taken from the start. Lesson learned.
Once on the shuttle, the driver had to dodge a constant stream of tourists walking in the road like it was a pedestrian mall. Still, we made it, and the cruise check-in was fast and easy. We received our Princess Medallions — no keycards or paper tickets, just a small wearable device that handles everything from room access to ordering drinks.
We finally reached our stateroom, which is a twin balcony room with an “obstructed view” thanks to a lifeboat mounted outside. Thankfully, we can still see over it, so it’s not a complete loss. The room is compact but well designed, and the best part? A laundry room is directly across the hallway. I was genuinely excited about this — the small joys of travel when you’re down to your last clean shirt.
After showering and changing, I threw on a load of laundry while we watched the safety video and visited our muster station. Then we headed to the daily LGBT meetup in the hopes of meeting a few other passengers. It paid off — we ended up chatting with a group of Americans (most of them also flight attendants!) and a retired couple from Sydney, Ken and Troy — also former flight attendants. Apparently, this cruise is turning into a reunion of the aviation industry.
We shared a few drinks with them before heading up to the buffet for a late dinner. While the food at the Princess buffet isn’t quite at the level of what we had on Celebrity Cruises, the staterooms are definitely better — more spacious and thoughtfully laid out. Plus, there’s something comforting about knowing we can now unpack fully and not have to repack or sprint for a train for at least ten days.
The ship itself has that classic Princess feel — understated, a bit old-world, with elegant finishes and soft lighting throughout the atrium and lounges. It feels less flashy than some cruise lines, but more relaxed. After racing across Europe, that’s exactly what we needed.
Tomorrow, we arrive in Naples — the first real stop of our Mediterranean cruise. And we can’t wait to explore.Läs mer
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