traveled in 2 countries Read more
  • Day 38

    Farewell to all that...

    August 21, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    ...the Orkneys can give.

    We found a ferry, arrived, cycled endless hills, saw endless pre-historic ruins (including a few inhabitants) and now await the ferry to Aberdeen.

    What more is there to say? The minions got here before us, the freshly caught fish is delicious, there's a man who rides a penny-farthing.

    The Italian Chapel, built by Italian POWs from two Nissen huts, is exquisitely beautiful.

    Can't wait to get home.

    And Amanda has raised £799.
    Read more

  • Day 36

    I really wanted to stay in bed?

    August 19, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    But Manda said NO. So out into the wind and wet we went. Horizontal rain.

    Waterproof clothing is as much use as blotting paper in conditions like that but I was very glad of the hood even if the rest didn't do much except keep us reasonably warm.

    I think I can safely say it was the worst riding conditions we have experienced.

    Lots of compliments to Amanda who completed her challenge like a good 'un. And raised £714 so far for SWALLOWS charity.

    Now to find a ferry to The Orkneys. Needless to say ours from JOG has been cancelled!
    Read more

  • Day 35

    The Longest Day

    August 18, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    But where was John Wayne when we needed his help and encouragement to win the day?

    We left Bettyhill and headed East. A breeze sprang up from the East. A 30mph plus howler thanks to Storm Betty blowing in straight in our faces. Up two of the longest hills you ever have seen. On the exposed tops it was difficult to make headway and when it came from the side we had to lean the bikes into it to keep going straight. Aching arms and hands. 36 miles and it did not relent. One last hill up a road that was straight for nearly two miles was a real heartbreaker but we finally made it.

    Lifesaver 1 was a cafe where we met two Belgian girls doing LEJOG for a wildlife charity and two Italian women doing it for 'pleasure'

    Lifesaver 2 was a cafe with a wind proof shelter and pea and ham soup. Same 2 Italians turned up. Their comment on the day was 'long, long, long, strong, strong, strong!'.

    Forecast tomorrow...heavy rain, strong winds (40mph+). Ouch
    Read more

  • Day 34

    The most beautiful road in Scotland

    August 17, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    You take the road from Lairg to Altnahara and then turn right to Bettyhill. The first 19 miles with no turns off, over the Flow Country; the next 22 miles alongside the Loch and River Naver. It's gentle, with wide panoramas, huge hills, magical heather and sudden reveals of new vistas. At the end the hills suddenly give way to the sea with the river flowing out through a golden beach into the sea. Perfection in a day's ride.

    Crask Inn gets an honourable mention. Owned by the Scottish Episcopalean Church it has long welcomed End to Enders.

    Passed a Clearance Village at Rosal. Just a clearing in the forest now. Cleared during the Highland Clearances. 15000 Gaelic speakers cleared from the valley in just 10 years. The Countess of Surherland built Bettyhill to house some of those evicted but most were forced out of the Highlands to make way for sheep.

    The views from Bettyhill are just stunning and where the river runs into the sea it turns a beautiful orange from the peat.

    Met Jan from Germany who donated a tenner to Manda's good cause. Nice chap and a good chat.
    Read more

  • Day 33

    Every year's a leap year

    August 16, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    At the Falls of Shin every year's a leap year if you're a salmon! We stopped there for lunch and were amazed that those fish could leap that waterfall. A breathtaking sight. People literally exclaimed every time one jumped. Sad thing is that once upon a time there were thousands doing it and now there are only a few. BUT Manda got a couple of pics whereas I failed completely!

    Last year as I rode up here I chatted to a guy about his beautiful raised beds. This year there he was again. We stopped, chatted and were invited in by Mark. He has spent 30 yrs creating a work of art in stone in his garden. Beautiful lines, swirling and graceful. What a joy to talk about and see. Then the offer of raspberries and mangetout to be enjoyed in the evening. We admired, picked and ate.

    Pictish art was seen and ticks picked up, unfortunately by me. We'll keep an eye out for Lyme's Disease.
    Read more

  • Day 31

    You heard it on the shipping forecast

    August 14, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We'd only ever heard of Cromarty from the Met Office shipping forecast but today we found it at the tip of the Black Isle north of Inverness. Pretty little place with a deepwater harbour sheltering oil rigs and suchlike. And it has a ferry, across to Nigg, that will take one larger van or two smaller cars. If your van is too big you don't get on! We hopped on and met some lovely Spanish people Victor and Neus. Their chatting helped Amanda not to feel seasick.

    On the way we watched a shrew shuffling for food and quoting Shakespeare. Something about not being tamed?

    The telegraph pkles are so old that they even have moss growing on them.

    Then the beach at Baltinore. Long, sandy, warm with crystal clear North Sea water to swim in. Like a bath it was.
    Read more

  • Day 30

    A message from Squirrel Nutkin

    August 13, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    You will all be happy to hear that Squirrel Nutkin is alive and well and living in Moy. We saw him today and he wanted to set the record straight. Apparently he did not do the nasty things to the owl that Beatrix Potter said he did and his tail is still intact. It was good to see him.

    Past ruined buildings on hilltops til we reached Aviemore and some foragers collecting chantarelles. Other pretty fungi were seen and then we met Malcolm Campbell in his Lone Star State shirt. We cycled an chatted about life in general and Texas in particular.

    Another summit and then Moy with a long empty road and beautifully carved seats in the middle of nowhere. And that red squirrel sighting!

    Through Carrbridge, home of the World Porridge Championships and on to Inverness. 55 miles and a well-deserved rest. Evening all!
    Read more

  • Day 29

    Get thee behind me, Stephen

    August 12, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It's a funny thing that so many conversations seem to contain almost scriptural sayings. Now for the context....I am the Routemaster....Manda is the Pacemaker. If I forget and forge ahead I am reminded of our roles. Occasionally it becomes necessary to be a little more forceful; hence the phrase 'Get thee behind me'.

    Over Killicrankie Pass and past Blair Atholl where the Duke has the only private army in the UK.

    Then on to Drumochter Pass with the warning 'No food or shelter for 30km'. You were warned. About 10 miles uphill to the top, the highest point on the Scottish Cycle Network'. And a rhyme unfinished as yet. Incidentally the warning was not true. Today's free food was raspberries by the side of the path.

    Scotland that has lots of heather
    Also has some really wet weather
    So you suit up, push and pedal
    Really deserving of a medal
    When you get right to the top
    Enjoy the view and have a stop.

    Any additions welcomed.

    Shinty at Newtonmore was a new one, like hockey on steroids crossed with golf.
    Read more

  • Day 28

    The 11th commandment

    August 11, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    There are rules and there are commandments (for staying married whilst cycling together). The 11th commandment was laid down today
    It goes something like this:

    'Thou shalt not express thine inner happiness whilst accompanying me up this steep hill on which I am dying.'

    Keeping this commandment will entail no longer whistling Chestnuts Roasting On An Open Fire while cycling up a hill with a gradient of more than 5%. I'm learning as I go.

    Stopped to take a wee photy of the little brown guy crossing the road. Unfortunately my bike was parked in such a way that when a car passed it moved out slightly and caused the demise of said road crosser. At least he is now immortalised.

    Ice cream at the chippy in Dunkeld where the derp-fried sweet of the week is Snickers. Had to leave there fast before the temptation was too much.

    Haggis, neeps and tatties for dinner. Haggis was locally caught and well hung. The guy in the spirit shop had clearly imbibed too much of the local hooch. He didn't look at all healthy!
    Read more

  • Day 28

    Panic sets in

    August 11, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Just seen this item on BBC News

    Irnbru drivers going on strike. There's a rush to the shops to snaffle dwindling supplies. Reminds me of toilet rolls and eggs a couple of years ago. Heading for Tesco now.

    https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-glasgow-…
    Read more

Join us:

FindPenguins for iOSFindPenguins for Android