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  • Day 27

    For all those on a family journey

    August 10, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The Scottish Highways Agency has got a very clear message for children on long car journeys. We saw it today. BELT UP IN THE BACK. Got it. Loud and clear.

    Apart from the normal.Edinburgh potholes (never less than 3 inches deep) it was a joy navigating along cycle routes out of the city heading for South Queensferry. Then an even more joyous ride over the Forth Road Bridge which is now closed to cars. Beautifully peaceful with the sound of the birds and just an occasional bus passing by. And stunning views to the iconic railway bridge. We lingered in the ethereal atmosphere.

    Majestic Tea Room in Inverkeithing is a must on any itinerary. Everything baked in house and very tasty.

    A struggle for some on the hot hills with sunshine and no breeze but more beautiful views over Loch Leven and the Tay.

    47 more miles, 860m of ascent. Not long now to midge country. You know that wind I whinged about for days and days? I want it back to keep the Smidgies at bay! We have our midgenets at the ready.

    In case you are wondering the last photo is me cycling up.that hill a second time having just ridden Manda's bike up and then going back for mine. That's the way to do it Mr Punch.
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  • Day 26

    Delicious canoli

    August 9, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A rest day. Bit of repair at the local bike shop, lots of reading, planning our cafe stops for the next few days and lovely food.

    The canolo latte was divine; the garlicky yogurt with poached eggs was really scrummy and the orange hot chocolate was as good as the Mexican chilli hot chocolate. Lemon cheesecake was equally brilliant.

    And all just up the road from the Eric Liddell Community Centre.

    Tomorrow we move into the mountains
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  • Day 25

    Rev. Diana

    August 8, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    How often does one meet a tattooed Reverend called Diana?

    We set off from our glorious hostel at Dunbar with its retro 1960s style including a record player and LPs in the bedrooms. Dunbar, incidentally, is the birthplace of John Muir who is worth a google search if you don't know him.

    Whilst I turned back to return the key I found in my pocket Amanda found an interesting person to talk to. A Franciscan priest with a dog collar. 'What do we call you?' asked Amanda. 'Just call me Diana' was the reply. I dared to ask the significance of the tattoos. The one arm has a copy of a picture from Bede's work of St Cuthbert (local chappy) and the other of St Francis (current climate significance). She didn't charge for the photo's either.

    Approaching Edinburgh, 1st-aider Amanda very competently took charge at the scene of an accident and whilst having lunch we saw the ambulance on it's way to hospital with the casualty.

    Didn't realise coal mining reached so close to Edinburgh as we passed a mining museum just outside Musselburgh.

    Incidentally the other photo is of a typical Dunbar resident. He wasn't very chatty.
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  • Day 24

    Evading the border patrols

    August 7, 2023 in Scotland ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We made it. A dash across the Union Bridge and we were in Scotland. A quick flash of the passports to immigration (see photo's of the officials looking a bit brassed off) and we were welcomed in.

    In case you didn't know the Union Bridge is the oldest suspension bridge in the world. We've crossed it both ways now and it's still there.

    Scotland disnae feel any different really. Still a headwind so strong that at times it was hard making any progress. BBC forecast a light breeze but at times it was 25mph plus in our faces and getting stronger as the day went on. Exhausting to mind, body and spirit.

    Had morning cafe break surrounded by butterflies that landed around and on us in the glorious sunshine.

    Two fords. One so deep we had to swim (or use the footbridge if you're a southern softie) and one that was walkable/rideable. No accidents and no dislocated fingers this year!

    Stunning views over the far mountains and the sea and the first genuine piece of Scottish litter. Irnbru has so much to answer for. Now for a deep fried Mars Bar and bed.
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  • Day 23

    The whistling gatepost

    August 6, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Whistling gate posts are a thing in these parts apparently. Stopped for a wild wee (comfort break / call of nature if you prefer) and heard someone playing the flute. On investigation it was the gate post with the howling North wind (yes it's still blowing) blowing through the holes. Very musical.

    First castle of the day was at Warkworth. Local folklore says that it was pretty much undamaged until the late 18th century when a local farmer joined the cricket club. He hit so many sixes against it that eventually the walls started crumbling. It's never been habitable since. But that's just oral tradition. Who knows. It looks pretty rough now.

    Bamburgh Castle is as spectacular as the last time we cycled past. A good lunch spot though you have to make sure you put your lunch on the bench to stop anyone nicking the seat before you can sit down.

    We passed the birthplace of Earl Grey tea and had our photo taken by some passing Americans.

    Stunning views across to Lindisfarne that my phone camera can't do justice to. Such a beautiful coastline even if the strong headwind is getting on my nerves.

    My nose got sunburnt today!
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  • Day 22

    A challenging day

    August 5, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Oop Nawth it was raining and cold with a fresh northerly wind. No pics from Sunderland 'cos it was too wet to bother. I'm sure it's a fascinating place but we were glad to leave.

    First stop was the South Shields ferry to North Shields across the Weare.The ferry is part of The National Cycle Network and has it's own NCN 1 sign!

    Think heavy marine industry for miles and then BREAKFAST. No veggies here. Chips with bolognese and mozzarella or Italian BLT with lashings of tea and hot choc and a chance to dry a little and thaw.

    Transferred to Holland where we spotted a windmill, cycled alongside a hideous road for miles and then back to the coast for castles, long sandy beaches and the most beautiful selections of wild flowers.

    It's difficult to think of this area as coal mining but the last pits closed less than 20 yrs ago. There's very little sign apart from mine water treatment works and a few decorative coal putts. Once upon a time those beaches would have been black with mine waste. Now pristine.

    670 miles done. Only 450 to go!
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  • Day 21

    At rest in Cholera City

    August 4, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    One of the lesser known facts about Sunderland is that it is the port where cholera first entered Britain. We are wsshing our hands very frequently! And only drinking gin.

    First greeting was from a friendly seagull.

    Stopping outside our hotel a man walked past. 'I wouldn't leave those there' he said, looking at our bikes. Imaginations ran riot. Calmed by the delicious Italian food we were served.

    We have reached the East coast and are now going to work our way up to Edinburgh.

    On the way we met Deryl from West Viginia on his recumbent doing LEJOG then the Velodysee to Santander. And saw more mushrooms than you could shake a frying pan at.

    So 30 odd miles of trail riding is complete. Harder work than anticipated!
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  • Day 20

    The North wind doth blow

    August 3, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    But still no snow. It was pretty chilly in North Yorks this morning though.

    Another day of a cold North wind, seeing showers all around but staying dry. No rain on us since Tiverton nearly two weeks ago!

    We didn't realise it was Yorkshire Day when we were in York but have seen a few flags since.

    Breakfast out in the sun...fried egg roll...huge horse mushrooms....moody skies.....curd tart with pork and apple pie for lunch.

    Thirsk, of racecourse fame, had lots of knitted decorations in the market square which was fun.

    Manda was in her element with bus shelter book swaps neatly organised in alphabetical order by author.

    Only one funny story. I was walking back down a hill to ride Manda's bike up at the point from where she was pushing and a bloke in full lycra overtook us. He was puffing a bit so I hopped on her fully laden bike and set off after him. When I caught up I started a conversation which was a bit one-sided. I spoke in full sentences but received only grunts in return. I burst out laughing, felt a little embarrassed and let him get away without overtaking him. One up for the tourer!
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  • Day 20

    Yesterday

    August 3, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Yesterday was rest-a-day. So we spent the day feeling smug whilst watching the rain cascading down through the window.

    Our friends Nick and Gemma travelled all the way to North Yorkshire to have lunch with us.....that's real commitment folks!

    And watched endless episodes of MASH on TV!
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  • Day 18

    Losing track of time

    August 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I couldn't even remember what day it was today. It's just a routine of breakfast, cycle, arrive, shower, eat, sleep and do it again.

    Free cherries today Mandy!

    We made Dutch friends with Ria and Johannes on their way to walk the Offa s Dyke. Johannes on a Moulton made in Bradford on Avon.

    Highlight of the day was tea at Betty's in York. So worth the 30 minute queue.

    Cows munching in the river and walking to be milked, Terry's chocolate factory in York, rain obscuring the hills which missed us and The Solar System Way between Selby and York. Interesting day finished off by 2 miles on an overgrown bridleway to avoid a busy road.
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