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- Day 1
- Tuesday, May 7, 2019 at 7:57 PM
- 🌙 7 °C
- Altitude: 1,113 m
JapanNakatsugawa35°24’14” N 137°31’21” E
Flying into Tokyo
May 7, 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 7 °C
This trip to Japan has come around very quickly and as usual we procrastinated a bit too long getting things organised for it. Consequently we forgot about public holidays and our rail passes which should have arrived the day before we left didn’t turn up so we had a very early trip down to the main post office this morning to collect them. Australia post have some marvellous people working for them.
Anyway that drama aside we had a good flight down to Brisbane and a quick change over to our international flight. Customs and security were really busy this morning, just when we need to get through in a hurry. There is nothing fun about long haul flights just a necessary evil to get where you want to be.
Staying close to the airport tonight with a quick flight down to Osaka in the morning. Had our first Japanese meal here in the hotel, didn’t know what most of the stuff on the menu was, and weren’t any the wiser when it turned up, but most of it was delicious.Read more
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- Day 2
- Wednesday, May 8, 2019 at 6:02 AM
- ☀️ 10 °C
- Altitude: 152 m
JapanFujinomiya35°11’48” N 138°37’50” E
Osaka!
May 8, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
Travelling down to Osaka this morning, only an hours flight and then we will be done with airports for a couple of weeks thank goodness.
We’d just taken off and Graham had the window seat, and he says to me "There’s a big snow covered Mountain coming up, looks volcanic, could be Mt Fuji? “ and then suddenly there it was right outside the window Such a clear day and so close, Amazing!
We’ve managed to make it to Osaka with everything in tact. Dropped our bags at the motel and after a couple of wrong turns found the nearest subway and with the help of a lovely man on the counter managed to buy ourselves a IC card and we were on our way.
First stop is Osaka Castle. Beautiful big park right in the center of the city. Amazing to come out of the subway and there it is! Eight stories high and set up as a museum. We spent quite a while there wandering the gardens and the eight floors of the castle looking at scrolls, tapestries, armour and other artefacts.
It’s getting late and we’re hungry again by now so after checking out our subway map we headed down to Dotonbori! I’ve seen photos of this section of Osaka so was keen to see it lit up at night. I’ve never seen so many food places and all so busy. We had a drink, beer for Graham and hot Sake for me in a little cafe, with some octopus balls they were cooking out the front. Umm Graham liked them , but not for me. Found a Japanese Barbeque place next, cooking all sorts of meat on skewers. Yum much more my thing, although they did have some choice one, Gizzards, chicken intestines, beef heart. Had a great chat to a Canadian couple in there next to us while we all had more drinks and more skewers.
It should have been well and truly dark but it didn’t seem to be and when we came out we could see why, so many neon lights everywhere.!
I think we walked a million miles today and we’ve yet to get back to the motel to check in.Read more
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- Day 3
- Thursday, May 9, 2019 at 11:36 AM
- ☁️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 38 m
JapanHimeji34°50’23” N 134°41’35” E
Himeji Castle and Kokoen Garden.
May 9, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
We are off to Himeji Castle and I had the directions figured out to a tee, best laid plans went south pretty quickly, but after a bit of head scratching and a couple of helpful subway assistants we were on the right train and the right track. Somehow I had it in my head we would be heading out into the countryside for this trip, and it did seem like it briefly, but we pulled up at Himeji Station and it was obviously still very much a part of the city.
About an hours trip out here and we were both a bit dubious it was going to be worth it. We could see the Castle in the distance and it looked pretty much like the one yesterday. Built in 1346 this 600 year old treasure is known as the White Heron Castle. It is a very imposing structure with massive grounds and many surrounding buildings. Yesterday’s Castle was impressive but this one is incredible. The whole main keep has been restored to its original glory. Massive timbers were used throughout the 7 floors of the main keep, gorgeous gates, tiles, windows and lots of hidden doorways and hatches.
If you paid another 40 yen which I think is less than a dollar you could visit KoKoen Gardens as well. We like gardens so that was our next stop. They were so peaceful and lovely, tea houses, fish ponds, little gazebos everywhere. Perfect.
A bit more head scratching and we figured out the train to get back. My poor calves, so many stairs today. Being a tourist can be hard work!Read more
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- Day 4
- Friday, May 10, 2019 at 6:24 AM
- ☀️ 14 °C
- Altitude: 28 m
JapanOsaka34°39’57” N 135°30’55” E
Downtown Osaka
May 10, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
We’re getting pretty good at negiotating the subway and we’re off to find Kuroman Markets, Shitennoji Temple and Shinsekai.
First up where the markets, the stalls were just starting to open as we got there. This is our kind of place, food everywhere. Strawberries, dried mango, king crab, Wagga and Kobe beef, octopus balls, sashimi, not to mention numerous questionable culinary delights. We had a lovely time eating our way around the stalls.
Off to Shitennoji Temple for some quite time, there are lots of shines and temples around the city and you quite often come upon one unexpectedly. Found our way to this one with the help of a young guy coming off the train. Everyone is extremely helpful, if you ask for directions you quite often get escorted to your destination. This guy didn’t go that far but he did wait for us on the corner and made sure we headed in the right direction. Such a beautiful peaceful little place in the mist of a chaotic city.
Last stop for the day, it’s heating up now and we’ve been walking for hours so when we got to Shinsekai we found a little cafe on the sidewalk and sat there with beers and Goyzas people watching. Graham kept trying to talk to the lady looking after us, she couldn’t understand anything he said but thought he was hilarious. Ha ha he’s a pretty animatiaed talker anyway but you should see the sign language when there’s a language barrier.Read more
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- Day 5
- Saturday, May 11, 2019 at 9:53 PM
- ☁️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 28 m
JapanOsaka34°39’57” N 135°30’55” E
Sound Messe
May 11, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Sound Messe, the reason for coming to Japan. Two intensive days of guitars displaying, playing, talking. The language barrier makes it all very interesting to say the least. Such a huge display of instruments, lots of retail stores, commercial booths, whole rooms full of electric guitars and a quite a large section of handmade instruments. Some amazing quality instruments here from all over the world.Read more
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- Day 7
- Monday, May 13, 2019 at 7:17 AM
- ☁️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 28 m
JapanOsaka34°39’57” N 135°30’55” E
Kyoto
May 13, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Hopped the train to Koyto this morning, and dropped our bags at the hotel when we eventually found it. Yet another enormous food market just a few blocks away, this one with lots of taste testing, no idea what a lot of it was, probably just as well, but most of it was Yummo. Goodness my feet by the end of it, Had to come back for a little rest before heading out again.
We headed down to Gion about five, it’s where the geishas work and we’re hoping to spot some. Took the bus this time, interesting trying to figure out a bus route in Japanese. Luckily it wasn’t far and we managed to get on the right bus. Spotted our first geisha about two minutes after getting off the bus. It’s a bit difficult at first because there are so many tourists dressed up as geishas, although they are usually in a pack or with a samarai partner.
We found a back street which seemed to be a favourite short cut for them and I think we saw 7 or 8 genuine ones over the evening. They are quite beautiful really, very modest, never look at you, walk very fast and with a definite purpose. Probably sick to death of tourists. It is very exciting when you do see one. Graham said “ This is like wildlife spotting, "waiting for them to come out at dusk, stay very still and don’t frighten them” in his best David Attenborough voice.
Gion is a beautiful place too, part of the old town with so many gorgeous old streets and laneways. And resturants, expensive restaurants, no advertising on most of them, the occasional piece of paper with the price for a set meal. So many it was incredible. We wandered around looking at the streets and laneways for a while and trying to decide on a place for dinner. So hard. Eventually we just had to pick one, 6 courses and they were all amazing. Our own little room with our own personal waitress. Such a great experience, might not have enough to pay the motel bill now but it was worth it.
There was this funny little ball on the table that Graham started playing with, 2 seconds later in pops the waitress, looks at him “yes?” Graham “oh that’s what’s this is for? “Yes you pushl I come “ 😂😂 I don’t know what you could possible want they haven’t already thought of, she was in and out of the room every few minutes bringing stuff we didn’t even know we wanted.Read more
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- Day 8
- Tuesday, May 14, 2019 at 6:17 AM
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 39 m
JapanKyoto35°0’2” N 135°45’29” E
Arashiyama
May 14, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
We set off to see the Bamboo forest this morning, the plan was to get up early and go but that didn’t happen, our room is so dark you have no idea what time it is. It’s about a half an hour trip on the bus up to the foot of the mountain. It is supposed to rain today, but there no sign of it yet and it was hot when we got off the bus. Coincidently there was a rickshaw driver waiting right there and after a bit of barter we hopped on. Goodness these guys must be fit, we felt a bit bad, this poor young thing having to haul us over the bridge and up a few streets, but he seemed so delighted we wanted to come for a ride with him so I guess it must be worthwhile for him. Those drivers are amazingly strong.
That rickshaw ride turned out to be the only time we weren’t surrounded by people, so many people, cameras, posing everywhere. The bamboo was planted originally to protect the temples on the mountain from evil spirits. It is a beautiful grove and they are massively tall bamboo, I don’t feel we saw it in the best light really, it’s hard to enjoy the serenity when it’s so crowded.
After taking our obligatory 5 thousand photos we went into the Tenryuji temple grounds, there’s an entrance fee, so it’s much quieter in there. It was a lovely area with of course a gorgeous garden. Lots of cherry trees, would have been incredible a month or so ago when the blossoms were out.
Found a lovely little Resturant and had a feast of a set menu for lunch, I’m even getting to like the Miso soup.Read more
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- Day 8
- Tuesday, May 14, 2019 at 3:53 PM
- ⛅ 20 °C
- Altitude: 51 m
JapanKyoto34°58’2” N 135°46’22” E
Fushimi Inara Shrine
May 14, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Our quest this afternoon is to find Fushimi Inara Shrine. It’s famous for its vermilion torii gates. We set off about fourish to look for it. Getting off the train it is just across the road and there were people everywhere again. Luckily the temple grounds go right up to the top of Inari Mountain and the people thin out more and more the higher up you go. Luckily because I don’t think we could handle a repeat of the Bamboo Forest.
The orange pathway trails lead into the wooded forest of Mount Inari, which stands at 233 meters and winds around the mountain if your legs hold out that is. Luckily almost a week of using the Osaka Subway has made us stair fit and after a few little rests we got to the top.
Photo opportunities around every corner, lots of shrines and small temples to see on the way up, and a couple of lovely stops to see the view. Foxes were supposed to be Inara’s messengers so there are hundreds of fox statues all along the paths.
I’d like to know how many stairs there are to the top, a hell of a lot my legs were telling me. Less and less people as we were coming down and by the time we got to the bottom again, it was almost deserted.Read more
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- Day 9
- Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 6:28 AM
- ☀️ 18 °C
- Altitude: 39 m
JapanKyoto35°0’2” N 135°45’29” E
Kurama to Kibune Hike
May 15, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
Today we set off for the outskirts of Kyoto. Think we got on the school bus run, all the Mums and littlies where on there. They are so cute, the kids are always fasinated with us. The little one just stare at you, and the bigger one wave or try out some hellos. Changed to the train to go up the mountain and luckily one of the guards must have been listening to us, there were two waiting there to choose from and we were on the wrong one. We still can’t figure out how that happened.
This is only a little train and takes about half an hour to chug up the mountain and stop at every stop. I’d read someone’s recommendation for this hike to go the opposite way to most directions. So we hoped off on the second last stop at Kibune. Got the bus into town which is still another couple of kls up hill and had a look at Kibune-jinja Shrine.
Found the entrance to our walk and paid the ¥300 to enter. My informant had said it was easier going up this way, it’s pretty steep but you get the worst part over in the first 20 minutes. He wasn’t kidding, steep doesn’t seem to be an appropriate word for it. Halfway up we were starting to think my inside informant was taking the piss, but it did get easier once the first lots of switch backs was over. There were quite a few rests stops on the way up. Luckily it’s quite cool here in the mountains and a bit overcast today as well. And there are not many other tourists so that’s a plus!
Turned out to be a beautiful hike, little stops for temples and shrines, beautiful big trees, gorgeous Kurama-dera temple which sits on top of the mountain with spectacular views. Beautiful vistas everywhere you looked. And yes I think he was right in the end it was a nicer way to come across the mountain from Kibune. A great reward to get to Kurama-dera temple and all the beautiful lanterns and granite pathways down to Karama. Although we skipped the last few hundred meters of stairs and came down the Cable Car.Read more
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- Day 10
- Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 5:03 PM
- 🌧 16 °C
- Altitude: 573 m
JapanNakatsugawa35°31’13” N 137°33’39” E
Magome
May 16, 2019 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 16 °C
We’re venturing out of the city today and up into the mountains. Taking our first trip on the Shinkansen to Nagoya and then on to Natasugawa and Magome. That fast train is unbelievable, 2 hours driving or thirty minutes on the Shinkansen.
Took a while but we finally made it out of the city, Arriving at Magome we were a bit lost on where to look for our Ryokan, Graham went into a little shop to ask, “oh I ring” she says 2 minutes later a car arrives for us. Amazing service. Keiko our hostess is lovely, served us tea and snacks and drove us back uptown once we’d got rid of our bags. We spent the afternoon wandering Magome streets which are all gorgeous, my new favourite place in Japan.
Magome and Tsumago are two restored and preserved Edo-period post towns on the Nakasendo highway in the Kiso Valley. Tomorrow we are walking the post road between the two, about 8kms, let’s hope not all of it uphill.Read more
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- Day 11
- Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:00 AM
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 572 m
JapanTakayama36°8’32” N 137°14’43” E
Magome to Tsumago walk
May 17, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Walking across Magome pass between these two post towns. Some of it on the original paved roads they used in the Edo period. We had another coffee at Keiko’s sons shop before we left and talked to a young Australian guy who walked across yesterday but in the opposite direction, big mistake apparently.
The first thirty or forty minutes is a bit steep in places and while it was a bit cool this morning we soon worked up a sweat. Most people come to this ares to see these two lovely restored towns and to do this hike so we except to have a lot of fellows travellers. They is a few around us but mostly everyone spreads out very quickly.
Cedar forest, bamboo groves, waterfalls, cobbled pathways, little villages, lovely gardens and of course temples and shrines. About half way across we came to a rest-house staffed by volunteers where they serve you tea and lollies to keep you energised for the rest of the trip. It is an original two hundred year old farmhouse.
It is a very picturesque, fairly easy walk, although we did meet quite a few people going the other way and they looked like they were suffering. Thank goodness for some research beforehand.
Tsumago is a nice little village too, much quieter and more residential. We had some soba noodles for lunch, picked up our bags from the tourist information and missed our train by 1 minute. 🥴Read more
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- Day 12
- Saturday, May 18, 2019 at 6:05 AM
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 570 m
JapanTakayama36°8’31” N 137°14’43” E
Takayama
May 18, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
After our train hiccup yesterday we finally made it to Takayama just after 7. So much for the fast trains of Japan, We were on the stage coach the whole way here, took about four hours to go between two places 100 kms apart. On the plus side the last part of the trip was quite scenic. It’s a much bigger place then I was expecting and the trip from the train station to our accomodation and then out again to look for some dinner wasn’t too inspiring either. Very modern, wide streets, looks just like Brisbane.
Staying at another Ryokan here with its own Onsen. Tried it out a couple of times, and it’s nice but lying around in a hot bath for too long is not really my thing. Might be different if it was outside under the stars or trees. No dark curtain here, so we are up early and set off to find Takayama’s charms, if she has any. Turned out to have quite a few.
There are several things I wanted to do here but they all involve and hour and a half on a bus and we’re a bit over trains and busses so we’re having a day wandering the town.
We started with the morning market, which is on the other side of the train line from us and it’s obviously an older part of town then where we’re staying. It’s a bit like a local farmers market with some interesting stuff, not many people about yet. After getting a coffee we decided we’d better go see the famous narrow streets of its Sanmachi Suji historic district before it got too busy. They are lined with wooden merchants’ houses dating to the Edo Period, along with many small museums.
They are lovely, like all the old towns in Japan. So well restored, clean and tidy. They all turn into shops later in the day and there are a few people out getting ready, washing windows doing a bit of pruning. Every bit of spare ground in Japan is turned into a beautiful garden even if it’s only a few meters square. They are always flowers and sculptured trees, topiaries, statues, lanterns. Hard to disscribe but so pretty.
Our walk took us past another little market at the entrance to Takayama Jinya and as it was opening we went in for a look. No it’s not a shrine or a temple. This was a local governor’s office during the Edo period. There were once lots of these buildings all over Japan however Takayama Jinya is the only one left today. It included residential area and storehouses for rice paid as tax. Not to mention a courthouse and torture room.
Walking back towards to market, we saw about four or five tourist buses pulling in. Glad we got up early today. Found another good coffee vendor here and as a couple of those busses were full of Australians he was doing a roaring trade.
Takayama has turned out to be a surprisingly lovely little city. Pretty streets and gardens, nice shops, and restaurants. We found a great Ramen restaurant for lunch, first time for it too. It never looks too appetising but it was delicious.
We headed out to Hida Folk Village after lunch, its more like one of our historical village, not commercial at all and very rustic. It’s more about the arts and crafts and the history of the ares. They had quite a few people there demonstrating pottery, painting ceramics, braided cord.
We managed to fill our day in quite nicely and are ready to tackle another train trip back to Tokyo. We’ve been down to buy the tickets and this time we will be there early!Read more
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- Day 13
- Sunday, May 19, 2019 at 6:57 AM
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 16 m
JapanTaito35°42’36” N 139°47’43” E
Back in Tokyo
May 19, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Nothing much planned today except to get back to Tokyo. Two trains journeys to get there so we though we better stock up on some snacks. Luckily there is a supermarket just around the corner from our Ryokan so after packing up we left our bags with Ma and went to have a look.
The choice of food in this place is amazing. Rows and rows of possibilities. We eventually picked a selection and some sushi for breakfast. So much packaging here though, for example, we wanted to buy a banana but you had to buy three and they were wrapped. Had our sushi, said goodbye to Ma and Pa drove us to the station. Neither of our hosts speak any English but she’s pretty good on the google translate on her phone, so we’ve all managed to communicate.
Four hours later and we are in Tokyo. Now to find our hotel. I’d managed to lose my IC card somewhere on the trip so we sorted that and bought another one, changed onto the subway and found Asakusa.
Everyone we’d talked to on this trip, tells us how busy Tokyo is and as we came out of that subway, Holy Moly so many people. Became obvious very quickly we’d arrived on a special day. Sanja Matsuri as it turns out, is an annual event held over three days and finishing in Asakusa. Three large mikoshi shrines are paraded around the streets all day and then head back to Asakusa Shrine at sunset.
After checking in we watched them go past the hotel two or three times and then we couldn’t resist, had to go see what it was all about. Still don’t know really, and didn’t seem like many of the people we asked did either but it was all very exciting. Chanting, dancing, parading, street food. Huge crowd, we lasted about an hour and then had to go find a quite bar for a drink!Read more
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- Day 14
- Monday, May 20, 2019 at 8:58 AM
- ⛅ 21 °C
- Altitude: 16 m
JapanTaito35°42’36” N 139°47’43” E
Tokyo!
May 20, 2019 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
We have a volunteer guide meeting us this morning not sure what this is going to be like. He arrived promptly at 9 and it was pretty obvious straight away his English wasn’t that great and he didn’t have a lot of knowledge or a way to interpret it into English for us.
Anyway he took us on a nice cruise down the river and through Hamarikyu Gardens. It was so funny, Graham was asking him the name of trees and plants and I’ve never seen anyone less interested in a garden. Even had to look up what a Ginkgo Tree was, and they are all over Japan. Next up the fish markets and a nice sushi lunch. Then on to the Imperial Palace which was uninspiring to say the least.
By this time it was about one and really hot so we sent him home after that, and got the subway back to Asakusa, which as far as I could see is the best place in Tokyo. I’m sure there are some nice spots somewhere, but so many people, lots of traffic and exhaust fumes.
Spent the afternoon walking around Asakusa, still plenty of people here too. Found a few souvenirs and had a nice dinner.
It’s raining today but we fly home tonight so we don’t really care. Except my shoes are getting wet.Read more













































































































TravelerLooks healthy!
TravelerIt was delicious Kylee
TravelerGood to get the dramas over with early. Enjoy!