• I dedicate this Camino to Gregor

    28 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I dedicate this camino to Gregor.
    And to the hero's around Gregor
    Some day he might look into this Photobook which I will print, and see written down, and in photos what incredible joy his coming brought to me and others.

    The last picture taken on the way to Finisterre shows a pilgrim battling on in the rain and wind, a symbol for the endurance of humans when they have something they believe in which lights their fire.
    May Gregor have this resilence and may he find his belief, his Fire and source of energy to take him through his life and have an impact on this world.

    In love 😍
    May God bless him ❤
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  • So, this is the end of my journey!

    28 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So, this is the end of my journey!
    54 days and 950km's
    I am sitting here on a rock at FINISTERRE, the place where in the middle ages pilgrims came to burn their clothes and start a new life, and where the wold, as it was defined at the time, ended.
    For me, today, my Camino of 2018, of which the last 800kms were walked with Emmanuelle from Marseille, ends here today, and also somehow a new life begins.
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  • My last morning

    27 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    As I walk this morning, I realize that these are the last 10 km's of this trip. My last camino forest paths and costal views.
    A sadness fills me. Something comes to an end, something new begins.
    As I walk this morning I am again listening to "the five invitations" by Frank Ostaseski from the San Francisco Zen Hospice project on life and death. Through the trees I see the sea as he reads on "compassion" and "Empathy" and speaks the words:
    "Each of us is an Individual wave, absolutely unique, and yet inseparable from the whole, all in the same ocean".
    These words go deep.
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  • Muxia, an anticlimax

    27 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Whenever I meet Spaniards, they tell me I have to go to Muxia and see the "Nossa signora da baxa", a chapel dedicated to the protection of boats and sailors, built on rocks overlooking the sea with many boat models in the church.
    As with 99% of the churches on this camino it was barred and locked!
    1n 2018 I once asked a Priest in Spain why all the churches were locked, the answer was to stop stealing. My answer was, then put the things in a museum! What good is a church that does everything to keep people out. This is a place for reflection and quiet and needs to be accessible at all times. Interestingly enough, in France 90% of the churches were open at all times and were a place I often went to to meditate.
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  • What am I grateful for?

    24 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I've been.walking for 51 days and nearly 950kms now. By the time I finish it will be 1000km. That is a lot of time for thinking, singing, swearing suffering, and screaming at the weather and at the tarred roads.
    I started this trip after Easter and a long period of fasting to get my head and thoughts free, to get out of the insanity of our World at present.
    This Camino is not a religious thing for me, but it definitely is a spiritual journey!

    Time to reflect on the world, on myself and my life.
    It has helped me sort out my fear of the economic crisis that is heading toward us and to identify how I want to meet it.
    It has helped me take farewell from relationships that are no longer in my life and deepen those that are central to me.

    It has given me the.space to reflect on death and suffering and has thus helped me to live even fuller, as if every moment could be the last.
    It has once again let me become aware and astound at the beauty of god's creation, but also become aware of what humans are doing to this creation.

    It has given me the gift of encounter with Carina the Portuguese who walked with me for a few days, with the bubbling, lively Stefania, (Miss beep beep road runner) from Italy, It has given me the encounter Miguel Antade who started the hostel in Porto, the encounter with Ruth and Dietmar from Tamera and the wonderful meeting with Fernanda from Casa Fernanda and Diego and Julia from the Quinta Estrada Romana. These were deep experiences that will stay in my heart.

    As I walk these days I am listening to the newest book of Veit Lindau: "GENESIS". Once again Veit has totally surprised me. He did this with "Liebe Radikal", which had a profound impact on how I see myself, my role as a man, and was the impulse to sort out my issues with my father and my mother and to look into the topic of death and our passing.
    He again surprised me with "Die Königin und der Samurai", and now once again with "Genesis".
    Without 100% co-creation between men and women we have no chance of Solving the problems of this world. The expansive masculine energy of "LOGOS", unbalanced by the intuitive feminin energy of "EROS" (Not to be misunderstood with the limited sexual sense), has brought the world to where it is.
    "GENESIS" calls upon women to become aware of their immense strength and unique intuitive intelligence and to bring this energy into the world.
    On men Veit calls to stop suppressing their masculine energy of "LOGOS", and bring it into harmony with "EROS" the feminin energy in each of us, and put it at the service of the world. The book calls upon both sexes to become aware of and free the suppressed "dark" side of our personalities to once again become whole.
    The way Veit reads ithe book is incredibly inspiring and I can totally recommend it to both man and woman.
    A must read!

    This prayer of Saint Franciscus came up in the book and touched me deeply:

    Lord, make me an instrument of your peace.
    Where there is hatred, let me bring love.
    Where there is offence, let me bring pardon.
    Where there is discord, let me bring union.
    Where there is error, let me bring truth.
    Where there is doubt, let me bring faith.
    Where there is despair, let me bring hope.
    Where there is darkness, let me bring your light.
    Where there is sadness, let me bring joy.
    O Master, let me not seek as much
    to be consoled as to console,
    to be understood as to understand,
    to be loved as to love,
    for it is in giving that one receives,
    it is in self-forgetting that one finds,
    it is in pardoning that one is pardoned,
    it is in dying that one is raised to eternal life
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  • Arrived! But in a wrong world!

    23 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Arriving in Santiago today I was depressed. Depressed because I am alone and have a deep longing for more than the superficial "hello, where do you come from?"
    I am longing for true, deep, meaningful conversation, where I touch someone's heart and they touch mine.
    Depressed because the world is going crazy. I see lovers with masks kissing each others necks because they can't take the mask off,
    I see joggers with masks, mountainbikers with masks and finally pilgrims walking their pilgrimage through fields and allies with masks.
    I experience people walking through nature and when they notice me, they pull their mask up. And then there are small children, 5 years old, swinging on the Swing with masks!
    I see terrified people everywhere!
    This morning when I arrived at the cathedral for the pilgrims Mass, I was turned away because they only allow 25% of the previous numbers into the mass.
    "THE PANDEMIE" I am told.

    And then I am depressed because politicians are printing money like crazy (+ 15% in Europe in 2020, +20% in USA.)
    And then I constantly hear stories of supply chains collapsing and prices rising dramatically (such as building materials).
    What is coming towards us?
    The rich are getting richer and the tiny pensions of the poor are disappearing. (In Portugal agricultural pensioners are getting 250 euros per month)
    Again and again I gather myself, gather my energy, try to keep it up. And then something happens, and I am back at the bottom.
    And yet,
    Today I took a hotel room, the one I had in 2018 November and allowed myself a jacuzzi in the afternoon.
    Tomorrow, I continue my journey to Finisterre, the traditional End of the Camino and will thus also end my Camino of 2018.
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  • put, put, splutter, put! End of energy!

    22 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Yesterday, I was in an incredible flow walking nearly 40 km late into the evening.
    Then 7 km before Santiago the energy suddenly disapeared and my mood changed, and a slight depression set in as I dragged myself to the next hostel.
    Walking such distances doesn't do me good. Pain in my hips and knees during the night were the result.
    So today I head into Santiago and this journey comes to an end.
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  • Wow, that was kind!

    20 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    As I ploughed up an incredibly steep straight road in the full midday sun with trucks and cars driving past, I had completely switched to Auto pilot and was oblivious to everything around me. Suddenly I heard loud whistling accross the road behind me. A Man had seen me while eating lunch on his porch and had run to the end of his garden to signal me with waving arms and whisteling that I had just missed the turn-off!
    Wow! How kind, thank you. There are still people in this world registering what is happening around them.
    This morning I passed a small farm and wondered why the geese were running around in circles making an incredible noise. Then I noticed the lady of the farm walking toward their pen and realised that they were screaming with joy at the fact that they were about to be let out onto the field. Shortly afterward she let the chickens 🐔 out, with a similar effect. Who says animals have no emotions?!
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  • Snoring until the walls fall down

    20 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Oh my god, what a night!
    In the dormitory one man was snoring so loud that the walls came down.
    So I watched as pilgrims carried their matrasses out of the dormitory into the brightly lit hall and one hour later came back into the dormitory. A night of movement.
    All the more beautiful was the afternoon yesterday walking for kilometers along a beautiful stream heading into Pontevedra.
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  • The countdown runs, 100km mark!

    19 de mayo de 2021, España ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    This afternoon I crossed the 100 km mark. Now the countdown to Santiago begins!
    But a far deeper impression was when I came upon a racing track where 7 year old boys were being trained by a coach in motor cycle racing while their parents stood behind a fence cheering on. These kids wer driving at about 60kmh. Totally fearless, and I thought, yes, here the next generation of men is being trained to not feel their feelings and to be cut off from their emotions!
    One boy was constantly being fetched out by the coach and chided because he was hesitating in the curves and not accelerating aggressively enough after the curves.
    My heart bled for this boy. ❤
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  • The end of portuguese eucalyptus forests

    18 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    As soon as I crossed the border today, beautiful oak forests accompanied me and the end of government promoted monoculture eucalyptus. Diego explained last night that a Monopolistic wood company in combination with government promotion of Eucalyptus have over 20 years totally changed the Portuguese landscape and are also the reason for the terrible fires every year as eucalyptus burns like petrol. But the population woke up when two years ago when 150 people died when a whole village was trapped by fires all around.
    In the same fire, one Quinta, belonging to a dutch lady who planted chestnuts, oaks and other trees in a mixed forest 50 years ago was not burnt down. These photographs showed the effect of mixed vegetation in a dramatic way and have triggered the discussion on eucalyptus monoculture.
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  • Oh that body just don't wanna move today

    18 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    It is amazing how the readinass of my body to walk long distances changes from day to day. Today it just didn't feel like walking, suggesting to me at every opportunity that it was time to have a break.
    And so when after about 10 km a man standing in his beautiful garden asked me where I came from and to where I am going and then invited me in for coffee, my body cheered while my inner voice commented that we had barely done 10km, had already had several breaks and actually want to enter into Spain today.!
    A third voice then joined saying "come on, you only live once and life is calling you to enter in dialogue with this guy. And besides, it is unimportant whether you get to Spain today".
    Well, the conversation lasted into the night, and it turned out that this was actually a hostel, and what a beautiful one at that!
    Diego, a photo journalist from Porto who has travelled the world from Africa to India, and Julia from Cologne, bought this hostel from a canadian couple in 2019 because they wanted to live a self sustained life and have their two small kids grow up in nature. On 4 ha they grow a wide variety of vegetables and fruit in Permaculture for which Diego gives courses. Happy chickens run around in between and ducks will soon be eating the snails. What a delicious salad I got that evening!
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  • Up up and away, in my beautiful balloon!

    17 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Unfortunately no beautiful ballon today but a lot of up up and away, 400 meters of it 😃
    But along wonderful alleys and a mountain stream! And now I'm up in the mountains in a witches den called "La Bruja", a beautifully renovated 400 year old house and B&B. Tonight, for a change, elegant lodging at an elegant price 🙂Leer más

  • Casa da Fernanda

    16 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    This is Casa da Fernanda a small oasus on this part of the camino. Fernanda used to work at the Post office when she decided together with her wonderful husband Jacinto to build a wooden house at the edge of their property to house pilgrims. Since then she has become a legend welcoming total strangers with a huge heart, day-by-day, year-by-year.
    I arrived quite early and promptly had coffee and cake served. We sat in the garden talking about fear and what it does to people, about pilgrims with one leg who stayed here and about her 5 dogs, 4 cats, 15 chickens, turkey and the two pigs who unfortunately died because they got too fat. My animals are my friends, I don't eat them she said!
    In the evening they tabled up a dinner for Kings where I thought the starters were the full dinner, and then suddenly the real thing was served accompanied by their own wine, Porto, and finally a grappa that just blew me away. All of this accompanied by 7 people all talking at the same time in numerous languages.
    People like Fernanda and Jacinto are incredible. Standing fully in life with both legs and dedicating them selves to helping others.
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  • A very different day, today!

    16 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After my catastrophic morning yesterday, as I walked after lunch, I listened to an audiobook "Penguin Bloom" about an adventurous Australian family whose life changes dramatically when Cameron Bloom, the mother, sudenly becomes paraplegic. In the book Cameron describe her self-destructive anger at the circumstances she is suddenly in, how she hates herself and all around her. Then a small Magpie bird flutters into the family's life and changes everything. A Deeply moving story!
    As I walked, I reflected on my anger of the morning and recognised myself in her story. I wondered how it must be when you know that whatever you do and no matter how much time passes, you are never going to have your torso and legs back again. At least I can close the day and start with a new one 12 hours later.
    In the evening Stefania (Miss 45 km/day) suddenly appeared in my hostel, which somehow didn't astound me at all. Darius her Iranian companion had returned to Switzerland, and bouncy and joyful as she is, she had just completed a 40km day and looked as if she had just done 5kms. We reflected on my anger that morning. She couldn't understand me, she said she loves walking in the rain, alone, at her pace, with herself. And I realized, there is no absolute truth only our each subjective perception of of what we are experiencing. Our perception creates our reality and we decide on how we want to see something.
    Tina, a friend of mine in Munich, writes a "thankfulness" diary and exchanges it each day with a good friend of her's. She does this to focus her energy on what is good in her life. I have always deeply admired her for this attitude.

    Yes, Today is a very different day! ❤
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  • Today is one of those days!

    15 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today is one of those days where everything seems to nerve me!
    It's been raining all day!
    I started off in good spirits, wearing my Poncho and ready to confront this day. After two hours of walking I realised I was just as wet under the poncho from perspiration as my poncho was on the outside. There is no more terrible feeling than a wet body sticking to the inside of a poncho. So I decided fuck-it, and took the poncho off. Now I am really soaked!.
    I have never hated rain more than today!

    And then a truck drove by, through the water puddle and a wave of water hit me.
    I have never hated trucks more than today!
    But the cars are no better!

    Then the path turned off onto a forest path, all dug up by agricultural vehicles and a full night of rain. With each foot step I sink-in 4 cms into fine mud. Sliding around!
    I have never hated mud more than today!

    And then there is my body that is sick-and-tired of this rain and mud and just wants to go home with a hot tea cuddling up on the sofa
    And then my Mind gets all up-tight with my body! Telling it to "shift weight".
    And then to make matters worse my ultra clever spirit enters the discussion and reminds me of the Buddist principle of "ACCEPTANCE" , adding that
    "SUFFERING IS CAUSED BY RESISTANCE"
    And then I get even more passed-off!
    Pissed off with me, pissed off with my body, passed off with the mud, pissed off with trucks, pissed off with agricultural equipment, simply passed off with everything!
    Oh my god, what a day!
    Today is just one of those days!
    And I am simply looking forward to the 27 kms to be passed,
    finished,
    erledigt!
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  • Is this the moment where I exit my life?

    14 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    As I walked along kilometers of highly dangerous road today, (the worst so far), I mused at how Ironic it would be if today were the day for me to EXIT my life.
    Gregor enters, I EXIT.
    The traffic was so intense and there were so many trucks, that at some stage I stopped thinking, fixed my view on the road ahead and walked, trusting in my angel as trucks drove centimeters past my arm.

    Fate obviously has something else in store for me, because I arrived safely at the "Mostiero de Vairao", an ancient pilgrims hostel in a monastery that is hundred of years old.
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  • And suddenly I became a grandfather!

    14 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    What absolute joy! ❤
    Last night Nora gave birth to a little boy, and all are healthy! 🌞
    This is an absolute blessing after the tragic death of her first child.
    This beautiful bush witnessed my joy when the news arrived. May its many beautiful flowers accompany Gregor through his Life and may I become a wonderful grandfather ❤ 🌟
    God bless you ❤

    Throughout this Camino I've been asking why I am walking this Camino,
    Now I know.
    It is for Gregor, all this pain, frustration but above all, joy.
    And the Song that accompanied me through the Camino in 2018 resurfaces:

    May the road rise up to meet you
    May the Wind be at your back
    May the sun shine warm upon your face
    May the rain fall softly on your feet
    And until we meet again
    Will you keep safe in the gentle loving arms of god

    Last week I was listening to a podcast about death.
    We move from this plain into another when we die,
    and Gregor moves from the other plain into this.
    Both die, and both are born!
    That is the miracle of the universe

    I carry you in my heart. ❤

    Here is the song:
    https://open.spotify.com/track/0iokixH3MiP5Xv9l…
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  • A real Pilgrims hostel, Camino feeling!

    13 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Yesterday I decided to change to the main pilgrim hostel of Porto. It was a good decision.
    Here I met Miguel who founded the hostel several years ago when he lost his job working in sales. This is his Life project, his calling, out of the heart ❤
    A dedicated wonderful man.
    But I also finally met some pilgrims! Dietmar and Ruth from a commune in Alentejo called "Cento e Oito" (108) which is only three kms from "Tamera" that I have been wanting to visit for so long. Both lived in Tamera for many years and found it becomming too rigid and big. Ruth was then then a founding member of smaller commune nearby and takes care of landscaping and permaculture.
    A wonderful encounter ❤
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  • Finally Porto in all its beauty

    12 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    So, after 703 kms and 39 days, here I am finally in Porto, this wonderful city so full of history, old dilapidated colourful buildings and hills. Spent the day strolling around, sitting in cafes, and resting in parks. My legs and joints are thanking me and getting ready for the final 10 days to Santiago di compostela.
    As I walk through portugal I see the huge role of the church with pious images on houses and roads named after cardinals and Priests. A film I saw recently tells the story of Portugal's grand days in the 14th century where they ruled the sea with their fast caravelle ships and had a Monopoly on the in-human slave trade using the island of Santiago (of all names) in the Cabo Verde archipelago as a trading center for slaves. This island was used until the end of the seventies for slaves and later for political prisoners of the Salazar dictatorship.
    As I sat in the chapel of Igreja dos Clérigos looking at the piety of this place built by the rich of the country in the 16th century I tried to imagine these people in their faith while slaves worked all around them under terrible conditions.
    In some way this has not changed. Just two days ago a scandal unraveled uncovering thousands of foreigners living under inhuman conditions (nearly like slaves) working the greenhouses of Odemira to produce cheapest fruit and vegetables for Northern Europe.
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  • This Bicycle refuses to go to Porto!

    11 de mayo de 2021, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    What a crazy day again!
    Besides all the ice cold wind and rain showers, 19km before Porto, the second thing I feared most happened, a puncture in my rear tyre!
    And I dont have a repair kit nor air pump!
    I cried in despair asking my fate why this is happening to me now, when Porto is only a few hours away?
    So, what do you do? Push, 5 km's!
    5 kms looking for a shop that might help. (But then I am in the country where you only have a bicycle Shop every 100km's).
    Then I THOUGHT my angels had come to help, when a shop for proffessional garden equipment apeared that actually had cycle tubes!
    The owner insisted that his mechanic do the job and I wait in the shop, and I thought "how kind of them".
    5 Km later a loud bang!
    The valve had torn off because the tube was not installed properly.
    This time I screamed!
    And once again I am standing miles from nowhere, 10 kms to Porto, it is getting dark, I am exhausted and freezing and simply want to get to a warm shelter.
    PLEASE!
    To make it worse, the tube and tyre were so messed up now that I could no longer roll the bike.
    So what do you do? Carry!
    So I carried bike and all its baggage to the next café asking myself "what is my spirit trying to tell me?"
    I asked the lady of the café "do you want a bicycle?"
    She gleamed! And I knew the answer to my problem.
    Everything was transfered back to my rucksack, I handed over bike, bags and all to a gleaming café owner 😃 and went my way!
    "May the road rise up to meet me"
    As I walked I wondered if I should change the blog name to "trials and tribulations of a wanderer".
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