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The Spirit flies again
  • Michael Spies

The Spirit flies again

From the southern tip of Portugal to Santiago. Read more
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  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    The path behind me
    The path in aheadSeagullsAnd sea

    Alone in nature with the spirit

    April 19, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Alone in nature with the seagulls, the sea and my path; the path behind me, and the path in front.

    This would be the right moment to die, like the indigeneous africans do when they feel that their time has come, they walk into the bush and lie down to sleep next to a tree 🌳
    The Hyenas or lions 🦁 do the rest.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Reminding that my Daughter Nora is waiting to give birth soon.
    Walked for ages on this beautiful beachTraces of wild boar digging up roots with the efficiency of a bulldozer1"Margot's lookout", a special memory from a trip to Vila nova des Millefontes in 2019We are getting into the region of Cork oaksThis estuary was not doable, even at low tide. I had to take a 10km detour along a highway. Terrible!

    From heaven back into reality

    April 19, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Having walked 15 kms to Almograve this morning dreaming of a nice lunch (as of today all Restaurants are supposed to be open again), I wondered why the village was so quiet. When I was asked to please wait at the door at the local Café, I discovered that on Sunday night the government had decided to close down a large part of Alentejo. What insanity!
    A narrow Region along the coast, constantly blown upon by a sea Wind where people are outdoors all the time and villages hardly get larger than 1000 inhabitants is closed down. Suddenly I was back in the world of corona and the terrorism of our governments (who unfortunately we elected!). It was like falling out of the sky and my joy changed instantly.
    So I decided to walk on to "Vila nova des Millefontes". Another 30kms which makes my day a 45km day and was clearly too much for me at this stage. Probably I will "get the bill" when I can't sleep because of knee pain.
    Alas, quite stupid one might say!
    But somehow I had to get the anger out of my system!
    Sounds a bit crazy!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Probably my last sunset of this nature 🌞Looks like the right place to pitch tentSome of the last wild coastlineTonight I will be staying above this endless beachTakeaway breakfast this morning

    Last night on the coast

    April 20, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    After that long march yesterday I gave myself a hostel last night 😃
    Got up late, had a nice breakfast and marched off around midday.
    Now in the distance already visible are the huge harbour cranes of Sines which also signal the end of the Rota Vincentina. Shortly before sines I will be heading off inland to join up with the camino Central at Santiago do Cacem. I then won't see the sea till Porto . 🙁
    The wind was so strong at the coast tonight that I have pitched tent behind a port Jackson bush,
    In the Cape South Africa, there is a war being raged against these bushes which are viewed as aliens, grow extremely fast, consume huge quantities of water in a dry region and displace the indigeneous flora. Exactly the same is happening here, and especially in the last 60 kms this has been very evident with them growing everywhere and covering up and killing the flowers.
    So I have mixed feelings about the protection I am getting tonight.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    David Bangma and Amelia Gill from Australia
    Full Italian Restaurant this evening. Delightful!Long roads of ants. Half in one direction, the other half in the other. For tens of meters!Walking along my endless beach this morning, alone!

    It's happened! an open restaurant, yea!

    April 21, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    At last an open restaurant, with tables service and all!
    For me the first since October 2020!
    Suddenly something banal becomes really important.
    I have now left the department of Odemira into that of Sines and the restaurants are actually open. I'm going to have an orgy!

    On a different note, this morning I met a wonderful couple from Australia, David Bangma and Amelia Gill. Both lived a while in London, then decided to escape the craziness of COVID to Lisbon, then things got crazy in Lisbon and they moved for three months into this region to have the sea nearby for surfing. David is Graphic designer, Amelia works for and ad-agency and both work totally virtually although they miss the social contact of the normal working world. Apparently life in Australia is totally normal. No lock down, no masks no craziness.
    I am Meeting many people here who have fled Germany, France, or Britain to come an live here near the sea while the World goes crazy. Most are working remote. One German Surfer I met is part of a technical call Center for engineering products he takes the calls from the beach. After 17:00 He is on his surf Board. There is a totally new professionell world appearing.

    This morning as I marched, I philosophised about ants. Everywhere I saw endless roads of ants, Perfectly organised straight lines which I followed for tens of meters. Half of them going in one direction, the other half in the other direction. They were not carrying anything, just crawling, sometimes meeting each other for a split second and then moving on. Where were they coming from? Where were they going? What were they doing? And why?    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Powerplay and Container harbour of Sines signal end of the rota Vincentina
    Container harbourLast look down the coast, farewell waves and cliffs!

    Well, thats the end of Rota Vincentina!

    April 22, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    So that was it, the end of the Rota Vincentina. No more cliffs, no more sound of the waves, but the birth of something new, an opportunity to discover new parts of Portugal.
    It would be so cool to meet some people to walk and talk with.
    I feel pretty lonesome!
    The longest encounter so far was half an hour .
    I'm going to send this idea into the universe and open myself for what will come now.
    Buon Camino,
    "May the road rise up to meet me"
    ❤    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies

    Walking inland

    April 22, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Walking inland the senses become finer. The coast has been dramatic!
    Waves, Cliffs, Wind, roaring Sound.
    The trail now is isolated, quite, gentle.
    I'm hearing the birds, the bees, the stream and the rustling of the leaves . And above all the cicads, symbol of southern countries. The whole air is singing!

    And everywhere abandoned ruins.
    And my fantasy flies!
    Repair an old ruin, keep chickens, plant vegetables, have solar energy and collect rainwater in a cistern. And forget the insanity of our world. And those walking by on the camino can stay the night    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    1

    I think I am going to move here

    April 22, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Bumped into this dream ruin, old Cork oaks all around, beautiful view to the sea 20km away, enough space for goats, chickens and vegetables.
    I think I am going to move here ❤

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    My old shoes being carried to Grave by the two new ones.
    Churchill of Santiago do CacemSt James (heiligen Jakob) in his more friendly versionChurch of Santiago do Cacem appearing1Beautiful Cork Oak alley on the way this morningOld Cork oak

    Carrying my old shoes to grave. R.I.P.

    April 23, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This morning was seriously windy and ice cold. New weather is comming, but the walk was beautiful along old Cork oak alleys and finally arriving at the first pilgrims stop on my journey, the Santiago do Cacem church high up on a hill.
    I then headed off to restaurant COVAS whose address I had used to have new shoes sent to me, and they had actually arrived in time, which automatically initiated the burial of my old shoes. This sad task was undertaken by the two new ones who carried the old to Grave.
    R.I.P. (rest in peace) my dear old shoes!
    These old shoes have served for ages in the toughest environments, even the via ferrata in the Brenta .
    Now I am bouncing along on new soles like a young puppy.
    And now, for the "dark side of the moon", the next three days will be clouds and RAIN!
    HORROR! and definitely very wet.
    Early tomorrow I head off to Roncao, 22 KM.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Two Beautiful butterflies doing what nature does
    My first Camino sign since walking in 2018. Brings a warm feeling1Flowers, flowers, flowersCystus roses everywhere (Cystus Palhinhai)Different sounds to the sea, stream, birds, the breeze

    Off on the next leg

    April 24, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A bit wet today with showers coming through every few hours and me getting pretty wet. But I have a good rain Cape that at least keeps the top dry.
    Incredible landscapes with Cork oaks, streams and hills.
    After the rain, when the sun came out again everything radiated a scent, sweet jasmine, eucalyptus, cystus roses, wet grass. Simply beautiful.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    My birthday present to my self and in memory of good old times with my daughter, three jelly snakes which they
    Jungle like Vegetation in the middle of a thunderstorm. Everything is wetMarkus Müller. Met him in an alley after a day of rain. He then turned my birthday into a real birthday and inThe best birthday Pasta ever!1Birthday dinner on his terrace.

    What a unique birthday

    April 25, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Today is my birthday. And It is not raining yet. (Will come this afternoon though).
    I started the day by giving myself a present, three Jelly snakes in memory of good old times with my daughters when they would bring me such snakes from the kiosk. This used to be heaven on earth for me 😃
    As I marched on weather got worse and worse with thunder all around. And then it broke! In buckets. Within seconds I was soaked and the rest of the day was rain.
    When I got to Grandola I met a young man in an alley who looked as if he could speak English. It was Markus Müller a well traveled international who two years ago decided that Germany is going to Hit the wall, sold everything to build a house in Portugal
    Markus invited me in for a beer and then, unknowingly, turned my birthday into a most memorable event by cooking a wonderful dinner. And for the first time in this trip I was able to have a real conversations with someone accompanied by wonderful wine, then Sake, and then to literally finish us off, half a bottle of Medronio, a killer Schnaps from Portugal.
    God bless you Markus. ❤    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Today's wheather
    Rolling thunder already at 11:00 hrsWater everywhereRoadsides washed away through rivers of waterRoof in front of public toilet. The only dry ace aroundStorks o n a flooded football field full of frogs1

    Worst day yet!

    April 26, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    My last days on the coast were really tough because I was virtually constantly walking in extremely soft sand sinking in with each step. I started to hate sand but all the other beautiful moments made up for it. Now for the last four days we have had thunder storms every half an hour, soaking me to the skin. Today I had really soft sand and constant rain. And when I say rain, I mean downpour! And then the soft sand soaked itself full and I sunk into bog with each step. And when the sand could no longer take up water every indentation became a lake and every rut a river.
    And there was no where for me to flee, no ruins, no shelters. So I walked on constantly reminding myself of the bhuddhist principle of "suffering is caused by fighting against whatever is bothering you. I was only marginaly successful.
    The problem is that walking for days in wet socks and shoes has destroyed the soles of my feet. it feels as ifthe skin is coming loose. If that is the case tomorrow, I have a real problem.
    Coming into a small village this evening, I discovered a public toilet (locked because of corona) with a covered area in front. That is where I am sleeping tonight.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    The churches are locked, also for pilgrims, at least someone User them. Storks looking after their babies
    When I hit this river I had no Idea what to do. Then this man came down from the village and rowed me over andWater everywhere! All fields are floldedJoe the crab, didn't like me walking g along his path, or should I say lake!Flooded patjsFlooded paths

    Everything wet!

    April 27, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    My clothes are wet, my shoes Squish with every step, the paths are flooded, the bushes are wet and my spirit is down. I am sick and tired of being wet, and I'm sick and tired of being alone! I want to talk, I want to cuddle,
    Being alone is starting to hit Home and is accentuated by permanent thunderstorms every hour.
    Usually I walk 4-5 km/hr. Today I am doing 1 km/hr. The paths are so flooded that have to take my shoes off to progress, or walk through the thorny bramble bushes on the side, ripping my skin and clothes. It is a nightmare.
    I decided to go to Alcacer do sal and stay there to dry out.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Old allies
    Old fortifications of the Alcacer overlooking the navigable tidal river

    Alcacer do sal to Casebres, and rain!

    April 28, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Ok, everything g is dry again! I slept 12 hours and am dry and tanked up, but to remind me of reality it already rained once this morning before even leaving.
    COURAGE! the French say and off I go!

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    This photo says it all! 30 kms straight tarred road.
    Thunder clouds gathering again!The village meeting hall, my place for the nightNot quite the most modern changing room for football, but with toiletCarina Sebastiao, pilgrim on the way to Fatima

    They say, don't wish too hard!

    April 28, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    So!
    I prayed to the spirit for the rain to stop, and for the wet sandy trails with brambles on the sides to stop. And the spirit fulfilled my wish. The rain stopped and the wet paths ended.
    What I got was a sunny day (even though the weather forecast said rain), and I got a straight, tarred road for 30 Kms. I am not joking, straight road for 30 kms!
    That is suicide for my knees, hips and ankles.
    Looks like one just can't win!
    Arriving in Casebres, a 15-house village, I met my first pilgrim, a Portuguese Lady from AlJesur on the way to Fatima who told me to go to the local administration and that they would give me a room.
    Well I have a room, it's the.meeting hall of the village. But at least it is dry, because the next thunder storm broke as I arrived. I was then given access to the toilets of the football field, a semi demolished building with a hole in the floor 😳
    But the cutest of all was when the gentleman returned again with toilet paper for me, packed in a envelope, so that I don't have to be ashamed when walking through the village. Isn't that sweet!
    Some people give all they can. ❤    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    At last I got my Sand roads back!
    And my puddles as well!Beautiful landsxapesCamp for tonightDelicious dinner on the cookAnd there she goes, the sun. Good night1Sounds of the night

    Casebres to Vendas Novas

    April 29, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today I walked with Carina Sebastiao on her way to Fatima in a pilgrimage of thanks.
    Some time back her beloved father who worked in central Africa most of her life was flown back to Portugal with Kidney failure and passed into a long coma which didn't look at all good.
    He came through, and she is now doing a pilgrimage in thanks to Fatima, a holy place for the Portuguese .
    Carina told me a lot about life in Portugal, a.o. that the minimum income in Portugal is 600 euros and that many are at this level. A very basic apartment in a village (not a city) costs 400 euros. It is very difficult for people to survive. You either continue living with parents or are forced to live in a double income Situation. When one Person looses their Job, it becomes extremely critical. Where is our Society heading when working people are not able to survive?
    In Vendas Novas our paths separated as I carried on another 10 km on a horrible main road with passing Trucks blowing my hat off every 5 minutes.
    I ended up climbing over a barbed wird fence and promptly ripped my leg open to only find myself in what looks like a hunting area with lookouts and Tracks leading through the bush.
    That is where I am camping tonight. BASTA!
    and may I be protected from wild boars and straying Bullets.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Photograph from yesterday sent to me by Carina
    Freiheit cool air over beautiful fieldsPloughed surfaces between the oaks destroying the plant variety1

    Freezing night, and morning glory

    April 30, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Oh my god was it cold last night!
    Sooooo fucking cold!
    I dressed every piece of clothing I had including my fat down jacket. I slept in my silk liner and then under my down quilt. And was still freezing. I then put a plastic ground sheet I have over myself which was a fatal mistake. The moisture my body transpires during the night was so much that my quilt and jacket became wet, and as we have learned, goose down looses its insulating properties when wet!
    In the early hours the dew set in, on the outside of my tent and inside. So much so that it was dripping from the ceiling. Everything was wet!
    It seems that the topic of my Camino is water. Water stands for emotions.
    Mmmmm!
    What does that tell me?
    When I later tried to pack my tent it was so wet I had to first dry it with my travel towel. I wrung about half a Liter of water out of this towel.
    Incredible!
    But then I was rewarded by an incredible morning in all its glory! And the continuing tarred road didn't bother me at all. It was quiet, the birds were singing and I am alive and well!

    While I have been walking, again and again I see whole areas that have been ploughed between the Cork oaks thus destroying the incredible Varieté of flora I have enjoyed so much. I recently discovered that it is done to prevent the spread of fires. But instead of creating "fire breaks" which would be normal, they destroy the whole region, reducing variety but also food for birds, insects and the like. How insane!
    When I crossed the railway line shown in the second last photo I curiously looked at the small notice taped to the wall of the small house. It was a warning to the Population saying that a weed killer with "glyphophosphat" was going to be used on a particular date and time, and that in particular domestic animals should stay off the fields for 48 hours.
    Great!
    And what about after the 48 hours?
    What are we doing to our Planet?    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Exhausted and dejected
    The classical picture these last days. Barren!Fields are ploughed between the trees. No more flowers, no more habitat for bees!"May the road rise up to meet me". Magnificent Gorse bushes lining the road hereIn Branca A welcome committee of two ladies took us to the village hall, warm shower and blow-up matrace incl.Looks like these snails like the compostella shell. They have covered it completely I have seen this several tThese flower fields are more are now more seldomA yet there is beauty everywhere.

    More tarmac, and fewer flowers, hard!

    May 1, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    I'm a bit exhausted and down! Asking myself what the hell I am doing here?
    Every night pain in my knees preventing me from sleeping and now a route becoming more and more monotonous with hard surfaces for walking. The last 4 days I would say over 70% of paths were tarred or rock hard grit roads which is killing my knees. On top, more and more surfaces between the trees are now ploughed thus destroying the incredible beauty of the flowers I had at the coast and making the landscapes very monotonous. The only way to survive is to switch off and become a robot in auto pilot. To help me I have been listening to audiobooks these last two days, at present a book on death, mourning and hospice work. I then sink into the book and my body walks on without my brain. My only connection to the world in that moment is the pain in my knees, hips and ankles reminding me that I am walking on surfaces that are too hard.Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    Left side with flowers10kms of this terrible road led into Santo Estevao. No pavement with Hugh trucks roaring by. Frightening!11Zoom into this picture! The storks have taken over

    Wonderful old style portuguese landlords

    May 1, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We have now entered Ribateo, an extremely rich agricultural region visible through polo clubs, extremely large houses and properties, as well a sudden increase in Mercedes and Porche cayenne everywhere.
    I have been walking on-and-off with Carina in the last two days which lightens the monotony of the landscapes and the roads. But we are both suffering terribly from these hard roads.
    Luckily today was only 17 kms and so we arrived around lunchtime and decided to give ourselves a pension today as well as a good lunch to go with it. Soft bed and a good night's sleep are desperately needed.
    In the restaurant it was amazing watching the many rich guests, in particular two gentlemen whose clothing (Jodpur riding trousers, riding boots, checkered shirt and vest) and body language simply oozed their wealth and high standing in society, this despite that their figures indicated that they hadn't been on a horses back for years!!!!!    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    A good night's sleep and everything feels different
    Breakfast on the floor of my room.And off we go!Beautiful landscapes in the protected Tejo delta

    Soft bed and everything feels OK!

    May 2, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Last night I stayed in a pension, in a tiny room but clean and warm. What a difference a decent bed makes!
    I let go and woke up this morning. Suddenly the knees and pain are bearable and the night and my whole energy feels different.
    Breakfast on the floor of my room and off we go at the agreed time, initially through wonderful flowering landscapes, all part of the protected Tejo delta that reaches far inland.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies

    Yesterday rich landlords, today Mafia

    May 2, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Toward midday we came through a gypsy village living in terrible poverty in tin huts, half naked children on the streets and I felt as if I were in a village in Africa. I sunk into philosophical thought about this percecuted and hated race. I have experienced gypsies in all the countries of eastern europe and everywhere they were hated, chased, despised. And I asked myself how must a child feel growing up despised by all around, the eternal cycle of being an outcast and not believing in yourself, keeping together with those who are your own and then becoming just like your parents. The gypsies have been hated throughout the centuries and seem to carry a collective fate like the jewish race. I was stopped by one of them and immediately was on guard. In the end he just wanted to know if I am only walking to Fatima or to Compostella and was deeply impressed when I told him my destination. Just a normal guy. I felt ashamed for my predjudice!

    A Kilometer later we stopped for lunch in a small Restaurant. Yesterday I had observed rich Landlords, today it was what clearly looked like the mafia. An elegant man and his wife and a Bodyguard with a neck as wide as my thigh organising everything for him. Whenever the guy jumped up to take care of something, the chair came up with him, not because his butt was so big, but because of his thighs that were as wide as my Torso. A pure package of muscles.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    The beautiful Tejo estuary with millions of birdsTejo1Rail bridge crossing TejoHalf hour meeting with Dutch guy from lisbon in middle of bridgeEndless agricultural surfaces

    30km of road, but deep in thoughts

    May 3, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Yesterday morning the ways of Carina and myself separated as she continued her route with her cousin who had come from Porto. It was a gruelling day of 30 kms on hard roads, no pavement and trucks nearly taking me with them when they passed. Sun and strong side Winds for most of the route did the rest.
    As I walked, I listened to a podcast "und dann?" on Audible which looked at all aspects around the topic of "Death", from the question of "when are you actually dead" , through "fear of death" , "the suffering around death", "hospice work", "assisted suicide" in switzerland, and the general fear of disappearing which has lead to "crionics" (freezing the brain or body parts to wake them up in 200 years, then research on the brain where one tries to digitalize all the information in the brain with the idea of being able to upload information and maybe no longer even needing a body, and finally, a very philosophical part on "what is human?" , "whether death is actually an essential part of being human, on Spirituality and faith.
    As I walked I reflected on my own end, on what COVID is doing with society at the moment, where society is heading, but also the opportunity for society to change itself radically.    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    A Cheerleader to all of you who are whitnissing my trip
    11Beautiful tiled houses with AzuelosAllywaysPicked up my "Credencial" from the cathedral. Now I am an official pilgrim!

    My first "zero day". Hostel in Santarem

    May 4, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I have decided to give my body a break, a chance to recover by taking my first "Zero day". No walking today!
    Just sitting in cafe reading and writing!
    This morning I discovered my first open church. There was a service taking place with 15 persons, present. all over 70 years old. One of the congregation, a gentleman of I'm sure 80, was reading the mass out of the midst of the congregation, very unusual!
    In connection with my audiobook from yesterday, I reflected on how crucial "faith" is, in whatever form it may come, to give purpose to life.
    Here old people were coming together to pray and find some kind of hold, a fix point, in a world gone totally crazy.
    Spirituality, on the one side, is found in shared ritual between people, as was the case this morning, but it is also found in the solitude experienced in nature when walking great distances.
    On this topic I bumped into this film on ARTE TV
    One of the quotes of a 'first nation" Indian is wonderful:
    "Let the river run its course, it knows where to go. It will bring you to the source.
    Keep your energy for the turbulence of the rapids.

    https://youtu.be/YyaUzsp_aTE    Read more

  • Michael SpiesThe Spirit flies againMichael Spies
    So happy to be sleeping in my tent again.The New Fatima logo showing me the way.11Getting a new Perspektive in one of my many breaksRolling hillsWith windmill on top

    Battling with a donkey

    May 5, 2021 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    He who rests, rusts!
    Well that was definitely the case with my body today!
    It felt like trying to get a donkey to move.
    One moment I was pushing myself from behind while my body dug all extremities into the ground to stay put, then I was pulling my body shouting at it to stop buggering around and get moving, and then I was trying to motivate it by agreeing to stop at the next café for an ice cream. The Problem is that after the Café it doesn't want to move again. If my body had the choice, it would stay a few more days in Santarem drinking wine and eating pre-dinner Snacks.
    I must have taken 20 rests today!
    Such is life when Body and mind want different things.
    But I was a rewarded by a wonderful nature and a great campsite tonight!
    ❤    Read more

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