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Rhonda Kraak
Rhonda Kraak

Rhonda Kraak

traveled in 7 countries Read more
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  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    Mossy Ubud

    July 28, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Like a scene from a Laura Croft adventure Ubud rises out of the jungle, elephant-grey in colour with delicate arches, temple walls and fluroscent flowers. The main street heaves with humanity and every form of diesely contraption. Surprisingly so many Tattoo shops as doesn't appear to be Hindu traditions but like Kuta everything seems to focus on the tourists.

    Dumped the boys at our accommodation: Nick's Hidden (in a rice padi) Cottages and a minibus pulled up for our cooking class in the hills. 'Rubber time' (like island time but more flexible) in full swing our 1.5 hour class went for 4 hours but notice we did not as we were busy with the freshest galangal, garlic and kaffir limes on chopping blocks of tamarind wood and pestleing and frying up a feast. The chef was amazing and we learnt heaps but not sure the 3 hours preparation will translate to my kitchen after work day or should I say the couch?

    Van driver chickened out and dropped us at first opportunity with 20 mins still to walk. Slacker but walking was much faster than peak hour Ubud traffic. The boys messaged they had found a Mexican cantina which meant theyd found some cold ones and snacks. Being a bali belly day I went back to our temple-like digs to rest. Can't remember anymore about that day...

    Massage Day 😄
    Bill and Eric, excited maybe by the Laura Croft ideal, ventured out early and found some monkey friends and a not so friendly stray dog. Eric being the only one conned into rabies vax ($700 worth) they retreated.

    How to choose the right massage from 297 listed establishments and to avoid criticism from those naughty travellers that don't contribute to research 🤔 but complain.

    Bill and I did well and we had 3 x blissful massages. Eric didn't fare as well as he was left with the 'vely special' male masseur who was apparently mute and didn't hear Eric's groans of pain.

    After a very strong pain killing lunch (margaritas to blame) we joined the western throng in shopping pilgrimage. So many shops !!

    Sun came out in the arvo bringing with it memories of FNQ and Kuranda and the heat that matches with it. We were refreshed in our beautiful deep blue pool before heading out for our last night in this diversely beautiful country.

    Mexican cantina for dinner and all that comes with it when it's $8 a cocktail. After dinner, dream-like we followed the vibes to find the source of familiar guitar tunes that were floating on the balmy mist. A 4 piece boy band was in full swing and playing everyones personal favourites. We settled in with a couple from Manchester and sang our nostalgic hearts out even getting up for a boogie.

    Early start and sad thoughts of the wonderful and cultural interlude coming to an end. Without my glasses I mistook Kwells for nurofen and snored the 2 hour drive to the airport 'apparently'. No proof was given tho.

    As we say goodbye and thank you (Terima Kasih - “it is accepted with love we to” to this warm friendly tropical island group we wish you all the best with so many tourists and that you will keep your good will and tolerance candles burning bright 🙏 Jakarta with 32 million inhabitants and only 1/4 of the DV rates in Australia.

    An inspiration for us living with plenty to take some rubber time out, to improve our manners when behind the wheel, and to decorate our steps with flowers 🌺    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    INXS in Bali

    July 25, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Sorry did I say INXS? I meant EXCESS.

    We have arrived in the land of excess but they were playing INXS.

    Not an easy juggle of conscience but we fell into the familiar ways of resort, food, cocktails, Bintang and lots of resting/lying about. A lot more attentive and inventive employment methods here but the majority of Bules have come to spend.

    Watched a beautiful sunset on a rooftop, serenaded by an amazing girl singing. Bought her a Bintang and we had a chat. We were feeling slightly shameful tipping equivalent of $1 AUD for the band to play our requests. I asked and she confirmed she is sick of tourists. Poor pet. Originally from Bandung she came to find employment. I have seen staff being treated pretty rudely by tourists sadly quite regularly.

    Conscience aside we have had a very relaxing time and Ramayana Resort has been beautiful with the most stunning orchids displays and attentive service. They miss nothing and are so obliging to help.

    No funny stories this time due to the reverse fleecing feelings.

    Hopefully Ubud will restore our equilibriums and peace ✌️ 🕊️ and I will feel free to join Eric in his Bintang 🩰    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    Temples and tantrums

    July 24, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Too many episodes of Netflix made for a bleary start for a 9 hour day of temple visits.

    Once again fragile male egos have been the cause of the erection of sizeable temples or maybe just healthy family rivalry, but as a result of temper tantrums Borobudur (Buddhist) and Pranbanam (Hindu) still both stand really tall and have been carved from black basalt and look quite charcoal coloured. Lots of massive steps, shod in provided grass woven shoes and much needed water bottle swigs. Both temples have been razed to the ground multiple times by the earthquake thrown tantrums.

    I really liked the bells with the Buddha's inside at the top of Boro.

    Dinner is best not spoken of again with even Eric having something to say about the strange food, cutlery being held for ransom and the biggest crime against Australian humanity: luke warm beer. The tiredness also caused some tantrums of our own.

    Tomorrow we fly to the Isle of the Gods 💃    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    Merapi Golf & ancient craft

    July 23, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    No championship results to record for our golf experience and no lava or explosions seen from Merapi hulking the sky behind us. Slightly confused by the extra four players hanging off the carts, we just rolled with it. Our un-speed-limited carts sped across the grass.

    Begging is illegal in Indonesia and there is much unemployment so the Javanese must deploy their inventiveness (hence the ghosts - performance busking and we have seen a collection can taped to the end of an active ukulele).

    The golf ⛳
    My first hit of many into the palms was rewarded by a visit from a ball gatherer (would be begger) who offered me a pack of balls and my caddy told me I had to pay $100,000 for the offering which gave much incentive to hit the ball straight. Much to my embarrassment this little grandma had singled me out as the weakest link 😭 and headed for the trees on the left again as that was obviously where my ball would go.

    Thankfully Eric wasn't having the best day either but his shots went further at least. Rachel and Bill powered ahead, the young caddy's all oohing and ahhring over Rachel's prowess 😬.

    My caddy 'Noodle' was fantastic at finding my balls even with the tropical flowers being the same colour as most of the balls. It was a beautiful course and very enjoyable except for Bills caddy who received the tackle of the week when Bill attempted to catch my wayward, high shot on the green and bowled her clean over. It took her a while to move but up she did get, her little mates no help as they were rolling around on the ground laughing.

    We decided to give our caddy's the 9th hole to play. After much consternation and reassurance they took the clubs and6t5 had a mad time running, hitting and giggling - they were hopeless which was surprising but had lots of fun just the same, with the role reversal of us polishing and proffering the desired club. International relations was the eventual winner.

    I managed to talk Rach and our guide, Dhedy, into driving to a regional area to buy handmade traditional batik, on a tip from Julia, the wise.

    A family home shed situation with very dodgy power extension combinations that melted the bees wax no trouble. With our little chanding tool we traced the pattern with hot oil onto cotton under the young daughters instructions, our guide informing me s Rach's was much better than mine 😒

    After parting with a slightly modest fortune we returned to Yogya to show off our purchases with some curiousity that the patterns and colours appearing not dissimilar to our first nations art and craft back home. 🤔 Further investigation required...

    Lunch was traditional rice and chicken, musically accompanied by 'Blind Boys of Yogyakarta'

    We garnered an 'Aussie' corner of our hotel pool on return for some Bintang time and laughed at The waitresses' reaction to Rach's most indecourous order of Bintang tallie - no glass.

    Tomorrow we head to the temples, stopping briefly for a 12pm video call job interview in the car red faced and messy hair with noisy aircon trying to keep up with 30 degrees humidity. Hopefully seen as tenancity and courage under fire 🤣    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    Movie Stars✨ & Machetes

    July 22, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    With honeyed coaxing the prime, fat bule were herded up the hill, every step and drop of sweat recorded by the faithful camera crew retinue as we entered the forest. Just "one kee-lomita" we were encouraged as the elevation and puffing increased.

    The forest closed in and darkened, the track grew narrow and muddier as we starting passing coffee trees bursting with red beans that would easily sufficed for our slave labour... but still we stomped on, the video cameras and random's mobile phones filming the huffs and puffs. It was starting to feel like a movie but not with a good ending.

    After a lot more steps we paused and Koffee Kamal set the filmset crew and began to soliloquy the plantation's advantages straight down the lens, the green leaves and red beans of the coffee tree all around.

    We were then pushed up through the scrub to the most inaccessible bushel and shown the dexterous speed and efficiency required. Ants ran down our hands, leaves slapped our faces as our clumsy attempts did little to fill our baskets. The cameras eyes then moved to focus on Eric, the fattest one, and he blossomed and shone under the spotlight, posturating and pantomiming as directed.

    Meanwhile my suspicions of being kidnapped and buried grew as did my dire need for white porcelain. Eric finally appeared with his supporting actors and crew with lots of male guffawing and bravado.

    Then the machetes appeared... as did a gang of plantation workers all curious what the fuss was with the bules.

    In panic I determinedly intoned our intentions of wanting to leave but Eric was able to dodge the arrows I stared at him and continued to bask in the adoration. Eventually he picked up on my psycho panic vibe and intimated it was time to go but was still persuaded and press ganged into joining in the coffee washing process and a revelation of a 9th century temples on the return trek.

    The temple was very beautiful even though earthquakes had forced many rebuilds. A dreamlike and tranquil green floating cloud.

    To fast forward, we made it back, after copious coffees, profusions of wanting to leave, promises of fame and most importantly a once white porcelain throne.

    4 hours of traffic later we arrived at our accom, but in my weariness and hunger found I still found enough fault to force me to take action and find accom with less stained sheets.

    Phew 😐

    Dinner consisted of the blackboard special at our digs: 3 margherita pizzas and 3 mojitos for $20. Tomato-less and basil free circles of bread arrived and mojitos that had lost their rum. We had a lot to be thankful for narrowly escaping Eric being made their Jungle King George Clooney.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    The harvest and the paparazzi

    July 22, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Early start flying to Yogyakarta (Yogy) away from our beloved 'lations. Big kisses to Hoolia (Julia) and Sipupu for your amazingly generous hospitality 😁 Washerwoman Eric spent most of the night in the laundry 🤣 carry on luggage limiting our wardrobe

    Our guide, Dhedy, most punctually arrived and up to the higher plantation elevations we sped.

    The padi fields opened up before us and the road deteriorated as we chugged up to the mountains.

    Our lunch destination seemed a reasonable enough distance up the hill, through the wavering heat haze and doused in DEET and permethrin we trod carefully on a goat track slightly too narrow for Eric and Bill's big cloppers. Huffing, sweating and puffing we paused to chat with wizened putris (grandmothers) with elastic muscular skeletal systems, big smiles and daunting work ethics as they planted the rice in swaying, backwards moving formation.

    I came across the expression: "rukun agawe santosa, crah agawe bubrah" : our strength lies in our ability to work together. Java has amazed us with how all strive for tolerance and forbearance in all things despite there being 160 million people all needing to co-exist.

    Back to our hard slog 😉 we finally reached the, at times, seemingly mythical coffee shop and were treated to lunch in our own pagoda overlooking a vast, expansive view of green rice fields, lush rainforest and shimmering distant purple mountains. Lunch was waiting in neat woven boxes of the freshest and most tantalising treat of rendang, satay, noodles, yellow rice and fresh fruit; we squished our long caucasian legs into some form of cross leggedness - (Eric failed) to eat our Indonesian feast (after we swallowed a good handful of tummy tabs to be safe).

    Being a coffee plantation we were of course treated to a very smooth brew and then the paparazzi closed in...

    Being a new business the 'Bules' in the pagoda were prime fat marketing material. So along came Dodi the smooth, snake charmer and whisperer of coffee beans and with a large retinue of cameraman and curious randoms, our coffee picking apparatus provisioned, up the mountain we were marched to earn our lunch.

    To be continued...    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    Two bites in Bandung

    July 20, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    The second bite of chilli not being very enjoyable, we gave our host's weetbix and exotic fruits a very hearty welcome for breakfast. Fuelled, we procured a gutsy ute and started on our road trip to blessed, green and cool Bandung.

    Traffic expertly manoeuvred through by Sirpupu, we arrived at our luxury mountain chalet. Hot springs gushed through the green Feng Sui and we found ourselves in our private grotto sipping a lovely WA Riesling in tea cups, John Butler organically soothing us all and a knock at the gate brought us delicious spiced banana fritters, and some kind of banana/chocolate quasi soup herbal tea.

    The next morning our sirpupu's fearless little 💪 numbat from WA took the wheel and safaried us to the Tangkuban Perahu (volcano that produces the hot springs)
    It has a distinctive shape; it looks like an “overturned boat”. We watched the hot bubbling pools of liquid hot enough to melt a terminator 😁

    After a quick frollick in the tea bushels, that didn't smell like tea,
    we 4WDrived (with Eric supplying the traction) up a steep road to find the onsite waterfall. Very lovely cool spot, man-made and extremely beautifully cared for gardens and bonsai looking plants.

    The ute only fitting 5 pax, Rhonda and willing William volunteered the 2 hour taxi ride to Bandung to catch the fastest train in the world (338k) back to Jakarta. The fiery Padang was scared out of us by white corpse-costumed characters, moaning and baring teeth through the window in the stopped traffic. William slipping the obliging taxi man a 'tenner' the windows wound up and the aircon came on, forcing the ghouls to resort to pressing their faces against the closed windows and grimacing. See photos.

    Our trip: 30 min speed train, the others 3.5 hours by road. You can imagine how fast was the blur.

    Heading now to Hause Rooftop Bar while we await the others return.
    Mardi 🖐️    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakIndonesia 🙆Traveler

    Above the clouds

    July 19, 2024 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    Far too early and far more cold we set off for the airport, not able to sit down, our pockets bulging with phones and chargers nervous like jockeys for the 7k weigh-in.

    Not really surprised to see the Bali-bound newly minted millionaires beer-swillering at 6:30am. Better option than watching the origin replays on the big screen TVs 😵

    Landing in Denpasar we shook off 98% of our fellow travellers as we wound our way through myriads of tiled empty walkways to find our domestic flights.

     We fast became the 'bule' minority but only in looks as the locals seemed surprisingly English fluent. We feasted on our first Nasi Goreng and some strange square meatball soup Rach had to have.

    Timezone miscalculations aside, we arrived at the capital Jakarta, grabbed a 'Grab' driver and strapped ourselves in fully expecting another near death taxi transfer. To our surprise and shock we putt putted through the heaving traffic performing a graceful, but jerky ballet, as every size vehicle weaved and tucked in every which way but loose without incident. Minor miracle we thought 🙏 mind you no-one is driving about 40 clicks 🤣

    Had we found the planet Tolerance???

    After a quick bomb search of the taxi (consulate policy) and security eyeball we rolled into our sepupu's (cousins) flash stone tower digs.

    Dinner was a fiery affair of non stop Padang region dishes appearing. A tussle was made for the cold fruit plate when Bills mango smoothie (with corn kernels for decoration) emptied. Rach won the chilli eating contest, Bills lips swollen and Eric's face red and sweat mopped. Bules we were.

    We slept like the dead... Until a 5am very loud 30min sing sing from the church nextdoor with a pointy roof.

    All part of the cultural experience 😜 if you look hard a line of active volcanoes poking heads out in pics.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Caves , Castles and Kasse

    September 30, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    We are staying in a lovely huge apartment in Bern with 5 generous flatmates but it does not seem cramped.

    Away in the big black van for more adventures we went and drove to the border with France to see an engineering milling feat which was well received by my 3. From a warm sunny day outside the temp dropped to maybe 10 degrees: 30 metres into the belly of the earth. We learnt that the medieval Swiss ate 850gms of bread a day and not much else 😵

    Then we peered over the edge of Swiss Grand Canyon - very deep Ruinaulta and marveled at the stone walls.

    Friday night saw us boarding an impossibly cramped train full of Friborg ice hockey fanatics as we sardined to the big stadium for some violence on ice. The drums, dancing and chanting were loud but intoxicating and we joined in as best we could wishing we could transport such a crowd for the upcoming NRL final.

    We begged respite for Sunday and lazily slept in. Then went to view the city of Bern, but didn't get far past an Irish Pub where we sessioned with 3 x Brisbanites and ruminated about where to watch the Broncos win on Sunday, sports bars all with afternoon opens. The publican was approached and said he would open early if we had 20 people. A very lame attempt was made to collar Swiss passes by with no success and we accepted our destiny of watching on Eric's ipad and made our unsteady way home up very steep hills 😅.

    If we didn't think it possible to eat more cheese we were wrong with on our arrival home a 'Raclette' party was in swing. The last round was Schnapps-covered and very nice but I could only watch having pulled out of the serving way earlier and had to lay on the couch to stop the cheese and gherkins coming out my ears.

    In a cheese fog we slept fitfully interrupted by stomach rumblings, visions of running Broncs and thoughts of packing for the long flight home.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Glorious death by Swiss dairy

    September 28, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After a bit of a late night playing prince and pauper with our new addition, Rach's Swiss exchange schoolmate, 'Swiss' we left in a sleek big black SCOTT work van to scale the heights of the alps and smell the Edelweiss. Gruyére our destination where we savoured the cheese and over-caffineated on the laden trays of Callier chocolate slabs and truffles we were obliged to sample. Then we scaled Gruyére castle and village as well as Jaun pass and back down the mountain at break neck speeds.

    Dinner was a very cheery, cheesy affair with the 5 flatmates and 2 x families white wine added as much to the fondue as to our glasses. We kept mum of any lactose intolerances. The Aussie fondue 🫕 pot thickened and filled with bread and apple due to our total lack of skill. We were teased of punishments that would have been imposed had we been seriously fonduing.

    The Swiss excel in their hospitality and generosity and we slept warm and snug for another day of adventure 😱    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    St Saphorin, Switzerland

    Sep 26–28, 2023 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Lovely Saint-Saphorin nestles between the lake and the vineyards. It boasts charming alleys and a Gothic church, which was built around 1530.

    The history of Saint-Saphorin goes back to Roman times. The village possesses a boundary marker whose inscription dates back to 47 A.D. In those days, Saint-Saphorin was often called Glerula.

    We swam in the very cold Lake Genéva, Bill making use of the diving board.

    The villa boasts a very grand German piano and a library of old sheet music and Rach soothed us with some Beethoven. We the spent 3 hours staring out at the view and gorging ourselves on Swiss cheese which unfortunately led to a very small dinner affair with the chilled local wine left unopened and Rach and Rhonda needing to lie down.

    Bill had to be brought in to close the 1.5m large timber shutters to allow a sleep-in. Such a large windowed villa that dates back to 1400's. No spirits made themselves know to my profound relief.

    Wine tasting tomorrow.

    Although there is some evidence that vines were grown in the area in Roman times, the present vine terraces can be traced back to the 11th century, when Benedictine and Cistercian monks planted the vines.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Milan without the gloss

    Sep 25–26, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We were late leaving our medieval palace as busy stuffing our faces with delicious pastries. OMG!!! Still warm from the oven 🤪

    First big mistakes made by me. Eric did a marvellous job negotiating the crazy drivers and Autobahn speeds. I lost my money card at the lunch stop probably as was throwing a tantie 😒 but did not realize till much later. (I emailed cafe and they found it and chopped it up for me) 😱

    Mistake 2: It must have been a late night when I booked our accom in Milan. My recollection was 2 minutes walk from the Central train station in the city but instead found ourselves 25 minutes out in a very strange, dodgy area in a big black coloured hotel. Next door were a huge dilapidated ghetto style building that didn't appear very old. 😩

    Decided was safest to stay in our rooms and play 500 (card game) and drink our purchased wine. Bit of a scuffle ensued a few times with bickering over levels of poured wine and kitty hogging.

    Dinner was just plain weird.

    So no stomping on bull testicle in Milan square, no window gazing at flashy things, no Milanese food 😥

    Early to bed as early start as need to travel back into city to catch train into the mountains.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Pilgrims Progressed

    September 24, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Sun-screened, shod and hatted our two pilgrims (minus colosseum-blistered Rhonda) set off earlyish as the church bells pealed 11am on the Via Francgenzio. The plan was to follow in the hire car and meet for wine and cheese along the way.

    With most venues closed after summer and being Sunday a mad dash was made to find vituals in the stone village of Gambassi Terme. After an hour of patchy internet and getting lost we finally found where the whole village was lunching, purchasing local goats cheeses, salamis, prosciutto, fresh pané and olives.

    Using our combined google map locations we bumped down dirt roads and, wouldn't you know it, landed at the best winery in the region 😇🥳

    Our parched pilgrims probably should have watered first but accepted the situation with equinimity and entered the tasting with gusto. And what a taste there was Gorgeous Bianco's, Chianti's, stickies and even the Grappa was brought out to Eric's delight.

    With the use of Google translate and lots of arm waving we made new friends and discovered Casaneuvas winery had been in the family since the 1100s and they were really good at parting tasters with their money. Lots of spent euros later we picnicked and prattled and were treated to espresso by our new friends/business partners 🤑😲

    The pilgrimage over we bumped over to our medieval castle like accommodation for a chilly swim and prosecco in the gardens, then wearing our travelling best we dined at the swanky onsite trattoria on boar lasagne, truffle ravioli and tasty pici. Was too excellent to photograph and too slopey due to the old flooring.

    Tomorrow we head on a highway full of lunatic drivers to Milano.

    Ciao Ciao!!    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Under a Tuscan Sun and Valium Haze

    September 23, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Oscar Wilde - Ravenna

    "Where flower and fruit to purple radiance blow,
    And like bright lamps the fabled apples glow.
    Full Spring it was—and by rich flowering vines,
    Dark olive-groves and noble forest-pines,
    I rode at will; the moist glad air was sweet,
    The white road rang beneath my horse’s feet,
    And musing on Ravenna’s ancient name,
    I watched the day till, marked with wounds of flame,
    The turquoise sky to burnished gold was turned."

    Okay so maybe we tasted a few honeyed wines and pushed our nostrils deep into the scented bushels but Tuscany certainly surpassed on all accounts.

    Driving to Tuscany.... in a manual left drive sardine can certainly didn't surpass anything. We scraped through medieval horse lanes, swerving to avoid "senza traffico" zones, performing 10 point turns in dead end lanes and white knuckled we wove up and down the oldest, steepest city centre in abject silence and horror, the stone walls just inches from our white Munst-like faces. The valium was reached for and calm was briefly restored.

    Our 15th century bnb was reached. Ghosts from old and war torn spirits could not be reasoned with and Eric was moved to sleep on 'that' side of the bed.

    San Gimignano has slept in a time warp since 1348 when the black plague took most of the town, and then shocked awake by Operation Axis that rubbled all but 7 towers.

    Now the streets throng with busloaded tourists and glamour filled shops and long queues for the worlds best and world record gelato.

    I'm hoping I can make use of at least one of the 1,000 quintessential photos taken for some artworks.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Forum & Villa Borghese

    September 22, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Kind of expecting to see half of Italy as a quarry such is the extent of stone monstrosities.

    Very thankful to Rick Steeve for his free podcasts allowing us to do our own free tour of forum.

    FRIDAY

    We said bon voyage to the honeymooners today before Eric and kids set out to see the wealthiest museum, art gallery and safe harbouring for ... the Vatican and I went to find the other Van Gogh in the city.

    The 80,000 steps we took yesterday have had an impact on my poor feet and I limped 10m before hailing a cab. Nightmare driver yelling and remonstrating at noone in particular and then cursing all in our path.

    Villa Borghese my destination was sold out for the day so after checking my maps I limped to the National Gallery which I have to say for the size of the magnificent structure had very few paintings . Maybe Eric and the kids were seeing all the 'procured' art instead. Vincent and Cezanne didn't fail me though and even a Pollock to shock.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Rome: city of seat-less toilets

    September 21, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Bumpy start to arrival with the Ryanair plane loudly crashing onto the runway. No one battered an eyelid so must be the usual. Actually we couldn't bat an eyelid as we were leaning down and our eyelids crashed also into the seat in front. We did think we saw some young fella board with the passengers dressed as a pilot.

    The eternal city with it's ruins and riches; saints and sinners at our feet at 5pm and who would be staying at our hotel but the bride and groom themselves, our newlyweds Lach and Jess. The gifted champagne and whiskey flowed and the stories talked over each other as we frenetically relayed them.

    Dinner was a fantastico affair of crusty bread, wine, pasta and oxen tails and the tablecloth would have needed to be chucked. Messy these pasta dishes!

    Toilets - why remove every seat? Who has the hamstring-dang strength after walking all day? Felt like Magnums backpackers in Airlie Beach. 😩

    And then we walked... Seriously been questioning why cobblestones? What started as a cute, quaint path style has turned into a treacherous, rock hopping affair with blisters to match.

    And we walked... We walked up roman roads and down underground colosseums pits and museums and totally exhausted ourselves cramming into our mouths the heart of Roma.

    Pantheon was huge and a lot of testaments (and testes) to those that shaped the city, multiple statues included 🫣

    Colosseum was next. Eric managed a 'Are you not entertained" on the arena floor and then was entertained the whole way home by my whinging about my feet.

    Very sad that the Melbourne storm were not able to crush the Panthers as we followed the score. Was too far to walk to one of the many Irish pubs and our friend super Simon to watch the game. Glad we didn't waste the unblistered part of my feet in doing so. We came across super Simon after exiting the Colosseum and finding the first pizza shop overcrowded and hot. Nothing quite so special as seeing the cool, dark, restorative interior of an Irish pub when you're tired, thirsty and hungry. Pints went down in gladiator shaming time.

    More to follow after beer and burgers and of course.. potatoes    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Thessaloniki

    September 19, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Seems strange that we chose to leave our beautiful beach sojourn and spend a day and night in the thriving metropolis of Thessalonia. Think it had something to do with direct flight prices to Rome.

    Very nice penthouse on 7th floor in the city with a one person lift with manual door. Eric (wash boy) was on point and pushed 2 loads through the machine 😒 phew !!

    Rach felt like cheesecake so we headed out into the heat and traffic and filled our stomachs and then watched NRL updates on YouTube on a BIG COUCH!!! (We'd forgotten the comfort) We drank the gifted bottle of yeasty/vinegary rosé. Can't say we're a fan but maybe didn't try the right Greek wines??

    Dinner was loud and confusing and I thought I'd made friends with a spunky little waitress that tricked us into some horrible €12 fake limoncello and solvent. The Sheesha pipe did nothing to quell the queasiness and we left the young 'uns to enjoy coughing into their Sheesha with the hoarde of other 20 year olds.

    Made the mistake of waking to a message at 2:30am and learnt of my dear Uncle Ted's passing. Only managed to return to sleep only after some Vitamin V's.

    Grief is a funny thing and I've learnt not to impose any expectations. It's like an army grey mist descends and makes everything heavier. Our plan was to tour the city briefly and visit the old 200 AD churches built which were a welcome relief from the heat and dark enough to hide tears. One in particular had a big underground crypt but all too familiarly my shorts and bare arms were scolded and the Icons and gold mosaics were closing in.

    BEWARE THE FEISTY GREEK gynaíka

    Checking into foreign airports has turned into a battle between me (fighting for my family's lives and boarding passes) and these feisty young female desk clerks that claim they cannot accept our proffered papers until I insist and they call in the more senior clerks for a yelled exchange before they violently punch the keyboard and begrudgingly give us our passes.

    RYANAIR

    This day in particular we got a masked, gloved Attila that even scoffed at our passport sleeves and forced me to defend Eric's sweatiness.

    Then the metal on my shorts set off the alarm in security and nothing would do but for another feisty to pat me down roughly in full view, no dignity offered.

    Only the nice perfumes and duty free bottles could calm me with their solidity and we boarded our dodgy flight for Roma plus a few bottles.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Pythagoeion

    September 15, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Pronounced "pee-,tha-gore-rion is an idyllic seaside village on the south-eastern side of the Greek Island of Samos. It was there we discovered that naughty Rach had not learnt any Greek as was her mandate 😵. 'Opa' being the extent of her learning.

    Idyllic was needed after the rushed pace and cultural quirks. We all felt a little fragile after two weeks in such a conservative, 2nd world country experience, but there was so much to love ❤️

    The soft sea air, relaxed atmosphere and generosity towards women's attire were a balm and sweetly did we sink into Samos' bosom,. This could also be partly due to the amount of Mythos beer and Greek cuisine consumed. Resort included private beach with crystal clear waters and large swimming pool with large Greek male lifeguard that was stuck in Groundhog Day, asking us each new day if we were staying at the hotel.

    One of the less populated and young-people-free touristy islands we were surrounded by a German pensioner convention of mahogany flesh, tobacco and bright caftans. Cleanliness was a MAJOR bonus with our rooms being fully cleaned daily and new linens. This is probably due to the strict rule 'NO TOILET PAPER IN TOILET' and a small bin is supplied. 😩 At least the public toilet floors werent coveredvin water from the ritual foot washing in Turkey.

    Nothing much to report from our relaxed spot under the €3 Balinese umbrellas and sea lounges. We have changed now to Euro so meals are more like €80 compared to the $15 AUD we were paying in Turkiye; so dieting may come into effect. Eric now has Turkey belly so that's 3/5ths of the food bill down.

    Something very odd possessed me one morning and I walked cross-country to a little Greek white church, momentarily losing the track and walking through a random's property with thankfully no shots fired. The stone ruins I passed seem commonplace now.

    A kayaking tour with a strange Spaniard 'Juan': exhausted our arms for 8 klms of sea kayaking. Poor Bill had to share a 2-man with me and we mostly bickered like teenagers. The snorkelband beach lunch made up somewhat. Our beach lunch being periodically interrupted by Jordie Shaw-accented English refugee camp workers springing up out of the bush to have a swim.

    We unfortunately did not see Pythagoras,' cave as we felt we may have seen enough for the time being.

    Tomorrow we fly to Thessalonica and leave our beach reverie behind 😭    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Selçuk

    September 12, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Arrived late at night to this hilltop accom overlooking the village of Selcuk. Lovely pool surrounded by olive and fruit trees and breakfast on the terrace and views of Castle and really old stuff.

    Owner was Jafar from Alladin reborn but meaner. Arrogant and rude but just to me. Eric escaped his alter ego and received ingratiating smiles. But he did drive us up and down a very steep hill each day. Only would take cash tho so dodgy as I think same as Jafar.

    Pammukale and Hieropolis were worth the 7 hour return drive. Our very young 22 year old guide didnt seem to have much information and mainly talked to busdriver apart from sticking Indian 'bindi' on our foreheads while we waited for some tardy Indian couple to arrive. Very odd.

    Limestone pools I think Pammukale was? Very crowded and so hot. Hieropolis was amazing Hellenistic then Roman city. Enjoyed the theatre very much. Just would have liked the guide to impart something about it.

    Selçuk conservative and old but good food. Still weighed down wearing long clothes. No women in sight but hundreds of old men at tables playing backgammon.

    EPHESUS
    Did not disappoint. We felt like all the other archeological historic sites were preparing us for this one!! Most well preserved oldest site. As I politely requested different guide - new guide was excellent 👌

    Could feel the presence of merchants and humanity trodding on marble roads; hear the voices but apparently NOT smell the sewerage as our guide told us Roman ingenuity in taking smell away totally.

    Late visit to Sirince which is Greek village in mountains for wine tasting but was ghastly the reds we tried. Stick to beer.

    Tomorrow we head for Greece 💪    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Gallipoli - WW1

    September 11, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    History is apparently written by the victors and having a Turkish tour guide certainly fulfilled this prophecy.

    Our first stop was the large plaque with Kemal Ataturk's words to Australian mothers:

    Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives ... You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours ... You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.    Read more

  • Rhonda KraakKraak caravanersaiTraveler

    Troy & Pergamon

    September 11, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Troy and Pergamon only seen by the Kraaks' that weren't clutching their bellies.

    Ancient city of Troy archeologists believe they have now discovered so not a myth.

    Pergamon with her columns of marble and endless archways so beautiful in the late golden sun.Read more

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