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Kraak caravanersai

September - October 2023
Turkey, Greece, Italy, Switzerland Read more
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  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 2

    Istanbul

    September 3, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    One of the things I like about travel is the self-discovery. Discovering that you are lazy and are nowhere near as fit as you needed to be. Discovery that you really do need glasses and can't guess at Turkish words. Then the discovery that peace of mind and happiness are fleeting creatures and may only appear a few times during the day despite the stunning architecture,  sunsets and culinary delights. And lastly, the discovery that Eric has not learned sufficient Turkish, which was his mandate. We have been calling people donkey snakes instead of saying Thank you. 😵 the puzzled looks made sense.

    In Dubai we managed to get all 4 of us into Merhaba airport lounge for our 5 hour layover. Hot breakfast, showers and as the coffee wasn't up to certain group standards: G&T's with no ice and no measuring at 8:28am went down better than expected. We all slept well on next flight ✈️

    You can't help but fall in love with Istanbul that it has evolved with so many different cultures and civilizations building on top of each other, which may account for the very steep hills we walk up. We're staying in a 200-YEAR-OLD European style apartment with gorgeous views of the Bosphorous. Very squeaky floors and a ghost that I had to have a chat to in Bill's room.

    Everyone seems to my be quite tolerant of each other's driving, reversing and dangerous moped rally driving despite a lot of beeping and no one took offense at Eric's offensive Turkish.

    We booked a Hammam in an ancient bath house and  it was extremely cleansing being scrubbed head to toe with no water pressured into places unwanted. The oils and water splashing and attention, pampering were wonderful and we floated home down and up the hills and my bath attendant had to lead my by the hand to our sunbeds where we drank tea with dried fruits and slept.

    Lots of cats. You'd think more than could be loved but not here in Turkiye. They love their street pets. And I'm guessing no mice.  There are also sea chooks which look like seagulls but are the size of chooks. At least their waste disposal is obvious when the large amount is falling from the sky.

    The locals are extremely friendly and hospitable. Shopping for bargains is quite difficult as they are in a recession and haggling seems greedy. I would really love to buy a carpet but I'm not sure my haggling skills are sufficient as I have no idea how much a reasonable price is. We'll have to use the plane to fly home.

    Sewage infrastructure. My pet hate. You can expect some issues with the infrastructure having three thousand years of civilization messing with the pipes . Our first night  in Galata went without water but did not go without Eric having to use the toilet before the water came back on at 3:00 a.m. I'll leave it there....

    Now that we have acclimatized culturally we take on the big historic sites. More to come!

    Galata Tower
    Istanbul archaeological museum
    Aya Sophia
    Blue Mosque
    Basilica Cistern for the civil engineers 🔨    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 5

    Basilica Cistern & Hagia Sophia

    September 6, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Roman Emporer Justinian reputedly had a personality complex and had built monstrous architectural marvels like Hagia Sophia and a massive underground water cistern which kept the city of Constantinople in fresh water for a long time. This was in the 6th century. and both still standing after 1700 odd years. Travelling with three engineers we had to visit 😂

    Hagia Sophia been a mosque since 2020 so we dressed conservatively. Rach and I got a lecture from Eric for trying to find a way upstairs 😕 the tour guide told us there was treasure.

    The cistern was not used for centuries and was stumbled across in 1980's?? How could you miss it like ...

    What I really liked about the Roman empire is their resourcefullness in using old columns and chunks of marble from other sites to build the cistern columns, hence the two Medusa heads that were chucked under two columns.

    Got a bit excited by all the bling at the Grand Bazaar so no photos taken.

    Video included of the call to prayer 5-6 times a day. I actually quite liked it.    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 6

    Cappadocia

    September 7, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    After a very early and bumpy start at the airport we managed to get boarding passes with the correctly sized bar codes. This left little time for food and coffee so some panic and grumpiness ensued.

    A HORSE WITH NO NAME
    Goréme was our stop and the geographical sites we saw from the comfort of our dusty ATV's was very impressive for our geotech Rach.

    Rhonda only fell down the rocky slope 3 times, kids are hoping the biggest fall was captured on the GoPro.

    Eric's helmet made a great rest for the GoPro . Very fun, dusty experience. Our mouths were cleansed of dirt at a Roop top bar serving cold Efes.

    5am start for Rach and Bill on a hot air balloon flight, which was canceled three times due to the weather which I'm guessing was 15 kilometer an hour winds? The landing wasn't so smooth with participants instructed to hold onto basket wall in low squat position. Balloon bumped, Heads were bumped and video footage not available of landing.    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 7

    The caves with no beer

    September 8, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Early starts and more tours. This time further south east.

    🥱

    We joined a tour heading to further south east Anatolia, guide was very suave. Kaymakli Underground city with very claustrophobic tunnels and underground chambers. Unfortunately I made the tour group wait while I thought about if I would freak. Tour guide had just told us that we need to crawl down very low roof tunnel for 10m and was one way for the rest of crawling. No turning back. At least I found a use for being short

    Shamed myself into it and all was going well until random, noisy, excitable Italian group got a bit loud, pushy and shovey so had to hide in Erics sweaty shirt and ventilate. Fear passed after thinking about poor early 200AD Christians hiding underground for years so continued on. Very impressed by wine making presses and kitchen smoke Ingenuity. Even a large ventilation shaft with a secret opening.

    Bit sad that these christians had to hide and live like that but I'm learning not to judge the past, well trying not to.

    Rach and I been avoiding drinking water as toilet scene a bit traumatising. Today at least there was flush next to step toilets but smell was unbearable. Feeling floppy and deydrated seems better choice.

    Very different ideas about alcohol out here. Only juice or salty yoghurt offered at cafes which is sad after walking 15,000 steps up hills, steps in hot hot sun developing a man's thirst. 🧑‍🦲 and eating burnt trout and burghul for lunch.

    Bought some amazing jewellery with Sultanate stone only found in Turkey and pinker than pink scarf so not all bad.

    Climbed up dusty steep hills to see early monastery and necropolis carved into the cone monoliths . Once again in hiding.

    Had a thyme flavored Margarita on a very classy rooftop despite the maitre D taking one look at our dusty straggly selves and pointing to another cafe who pointed us back to your roof top. Maitre D agreed we could stay for one drink 🤫

    It appears these bars rely on Instagram appeal and we were obviously not that.

    I had come to the conclusion that Aussies are dags when I heard a young Aussie accent, pausing between Shisha pipe puffs, to say how deadly emus are when questioned about what we thought was cassowaries. Was trés amusing.

    We were then treated to dinner at a family restaurant that gave us gifts of food. William had the traditional clay pot stew and the owner let me buy our beautiful Pink tablecloth off the table for very reasonable price. Hoping my family will forgive me by the morning but It was stunning !!! (Despite the food we dropped on it). See photos of my souvenir haul including black rose oil which is swooning material.

    In the morning we are catching a bus to Ankara which is not so touristy so could hit some language snags, then we fly to Canakkake, Gallipoli to pay our respects and, I imagine, cry and feel the loss. 🌹    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 8

    V-Day and D-Day

    September 9, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Should I start with the Valium or the Di@rrhea??

    V-DAY
    It looked so easy on paper - catch a 3 hour bus to Ankara, hang for a bit and then fly to Canakkale (Gallipoli). Full day of travel. Bus more like 4.5 as driver liked to stop for smoke and gossip breaks. After a quick bite and some amazing chocolate roulade we had only 1.5 hours left for sightseeing and no real plan or map we ignored the warnings and jumped in first cab off the rank. Our VERY reluctant young driver argued with the other cabbies but finally agreed.

    As a revenge we careened like a Grand Prix lurching at break neck speeds (whilst texting and yelling into the phone) squealing tyres and breaking within a whisker and were deposited at a fish market inner city as the driver appeared 'confused' of our destination. (See video)

    Gone was my Turkish princess ideals of trailing silks, perfumes and artefacts as we were engulfed in a cacophony of fish market day.

    To me the Turkish definitely look Turkish but I didn't realise that we look so different as we were an object of amusement for the marketeers. We gave up trying to pantomime and ask for directions after being laughed out of a butcher and onto the sidewalk where they advanced for more Kraak sideshow. Who wants goats heads and entrails anyway ☹️ sounds gassy.

    Out in the open air I knocked on the window of a full cab in panic but the next cab was empty and the very gentlemanly driving calmed us somewhat and mended our frayed tempers as we caught bus, plane and taxi to our accommodation at Canakkale/Gallipoli, which on arrival we mistook for Fortitude Valley on a Saturday night. The Valium-resistant doof doof stopped around 1am.

    D-DAY
    Poor Will woke with a fever 39.6 and stories of a difficult night of D.

    We raced to the only pharmacy open on a Sunday and after the difficulty of both a language barrier and the opportunity to sell lots to tourists we emerged with what turned out to be poor substitutes for Imodium. We left for our Gallipoli tour leaving Bill with lots of water and Turkish TV remote.    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 10

    Troy & Pergamon

    September 11, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Troy and Pergamon only seen by the Kraaks' that weren't clutching their bellies.

    Ancient city of Troy archeologists believe they have now discovered so not a myth.

    Pergamon with her columns of marble and endless archways so beautiful in the late golden sun.Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 10

    Gallipoli - WW1

    September 11, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    History is apparently written by the victors and having a Turkish tour guide certainly fulfilled this prophecy.

    Our first stop was the large plaque with Kemal Ataturk's words to Australian mothers:

    Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives ... You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours ... You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 11

    Selçuk

    September 12, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Arrived late at night to this hilltop accom overlooking the village of Selcuk. Lovely pool surrounded by olive and fruit trees and breakfast on the terrace and views of Castle and really old stuff.

    Owner was Jafar from Alladin reborn but meaner. Arrogant and rude but just to me. Eric escaped his alter ego and received ingratiating smiles. But he did drive us up and down a very steep hill each day. Only would take cash tho so dodgy as I think same as Jafar.

    Pammukale and Hieropolis were worth the 7 hour return drive. Our very young 22 year old guide didnt seem to have much information and mainly talked to busdriver apart from sticking Indian 'bindi' on our foreheads while we waited for some tardy Indian couple to arrive. Very odd.

    Limestone pools I think Pammukale was? Very crowded and so hot. Hieropolis was amazing Hellenistic then Roman city. Enjoyed the theatre very much. Just would have liked the guide to impart something about it.

    Selçuk conservative and old but good food. Still weighed down wearing long clothes. No women in sight but hundreds of old men at tables playing backgammon.

    EPHESUS
    Did not disappoint. We felt like all the other archeological historic sites were preparing us for this one!! Most well preserved oldest site. As I politely requested different guide - new guide was excellent 👌

    Could feel the presence of merchants and humanity trodding on marble roads; hear the voices but apparently NOT smell the sewerage as our guide told us Roman ingenuity in taking smell away totally.

    Late visit to Sirince which is Greek village in mountains for wine tasting but was ghastly the reds we tried. Stick to beer.

    Tomorrow we head for Greece 💪    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 14

    Pythagoeion

    September 15, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Pronounced "pee-,tha-gore-rion is an idyllic seaside village on the south-eastern side of the Greek Island of Samos. It was there we discovered that naughty Rach had not learnt any Greek as was her mandate 😵. 'Opa' being the extent of her learning.

    Idyllic was needed after the rushed pace and cultural quirks. We all felt a little fragile after two weeks in such a conservative, 2nd world country experience, but there was so much to love ❤️

    The soft sea air, relaxed atmosphere and generosity towards women's attire were a balm and sweetly did we sink into Samos' bosom,. This could also be partly due to the amount of Mythos beer and Greek cuisine consumed. Resort included private beach with crystal clear waters and large swimming pool with large Greek male lifeguard that was stuck in Groundhog Day, asking us each new day if we were staying at the hotel.

    One of the less populated and young-people-free touristy islands we were surrounded by a German pensioner convention of mahogany flesh, tobacco and bright caftans. Cleanliness was a MAJOR bonus with our rooms being fully cleaned daily and new linens. This is probably due to the strict rule 'NO TOILET PAPER IN TOILET' and a small bin is supplied. 😩 At least the public toilet floors werent coveredvin water from the ritual foot washing in Turkey.

    Nothing much to report from our relaxed spot under the €3 Balinese umbrellas and sea lounges. We have changed now to Euro so meals are more like €80 compared to the $15 AUD we were paying in Turkiye; so dieting may come into effect. Eric now has Turkey belly so that's 3/5ths of the food bill down.

    Something very odd possessed me one morning and I walked cross-country to a little Greek white church, momentarily losing the track and walking through a random's property with thankfully no shots fired. The stone ruins I passed seem commonplace now.

    A kayaking tour with a strange Spaniard 'Juan': exhausted our arms for 8 klms of sea kayaking. Poor Bill had to share a 2-man with me and we mostly bickered like teenagers. The snorkelband beach lunch made up somewhat. Our beach lunch being periodically interrupted by Jordie Shaw-accented English refugee camp workers springing up out of the bush to have a swim.

    We unfortunately did not see Pythagoras,' cave as we felt we may have seen enough for the time being.

    Tomorrow we fly to Thessalonica and leave our beach reverie behind 😭    Read more

  • TravelerKraak caravanersai
    Day 18

    Thessaloniki

    September 19, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Seems strange that we chose to leave our beautiful beach sojourn and spend a day and night in the thriving metropolis of Thessalonia. Think it had something to do with direct flight prices to Rome.

    Very nice penthouse on 7th floor in the city with a one person lift with manual door. Eric (wash boy) was on point and pushed 2 loads through the machine 😒 phew !!

    Rach felt like cheesecake so we headed out into the heat and traffic and filled our stomachs and then watched NRL updates on YouTube on a BIG COUCH!!! (We'd forgotten the comfort) We drank the gifted bottle of yeasty/vinegary rosé. Can't say we're a fan but maybe didn't try the right Greek wines??

    Dinner was loud and confusing and I thought I'd made friends with a spunky little waitress that tricked us into some horrible €12 fake limoncello and solvent. The Sheesha pipe did nothing to quell the queasiness and we left the young 'uns to enjoy coughing into their Sheesha with the hoarde of other 20 year olds.

    Made the mistake of waking to a message at 2:30am and learnt of my dear Uncle Ted's passing. Only managed to return to sleep only after some Vitamin V's.

    Grief is a funny thing and I've learnt not to impose any expectations. It's like an army grey mist descends and makes everything heavier. Our plan was to tour the city briefly and visit the old 200 AD churches built which were a welcome relief from the heat and dark enough to hide tears. One in particular had a big underground crypt but all too familiarly my shorts and bare arms were scolded and the Icons and gold mosaics were closing in.

    BEWARE THE FEISTY GREEK gynaíka

    Checking into foreign airports has turned into a battle between me (fighting for my family's lives and boarding passes) and these feisty young female desk clerks that claim they cannot accept our proffered papers until I insist and they call in the more senior clerks for a yelled exchange before they violently punch the keyboard and begrudgingly give us our passes.

    RYANAIR

    This day in particular we got a masked, gloved Attila that even scoffed at our passport sleeves and forced me to defend Eric's sweatiness.

    Then the metal on my shorts set off the alarm in security and nothing would do but for another feisty to pat me down roughly in full view, no dignity offered.

    Only the nice perfumes and duty free bottles could calm me with their solidity and we boarded our dodgy flight for Roma plus a few bottles.    Read more

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