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Ireland road trip

April - May 2024
A 17-day adventure by Steph Read more
  • 17footprints
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  • 17days
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  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 1

    And we’re off!

    April 17 in Wales ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Looking forward to getting back out on the road, meeting up with friends and traveling around Ireland.
    Our first trek was to north Wales for an over night stop before we catch the ferry to Dublin from Holyhead in Anglesey. Bit of an epic, just under 5 hour drive but no issues, thankfully. Couple of good podcasts saw us through. Found a lovely stopover near Conwy on the north Wales coast, right next to the sea, beautiful. Went for a walk, set up for the night, had dinner and Gary watched the footy whilst I watched the glorious sunset. We’ll be up bright and early for the morning ferry to Dublin. Let’s hope it’s not choppy!Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 2

    Dublin

    April 18 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Woke up to a beautiful sunrise over the sea. Quick brew then headed off to Holyhead, Anglesey for the ferry. Nice easy journey across the water arriving in Dublin a couple of hours later. Whilst the van was checked at the Wales port, in Ireland, the police check was more lax - quick glance through the window “just the 2 of you?” then “ from the uk?” “ have a safe journey”! He was busy juggling 2 queues of vehicles!
    Bit of a pickle trying to find somewhere appropriate to park over night but after a little negotiating the city we found somewhere suitable sized and not massively expensive.
    Met up with our lovely Swedish friends Fredrik and Maria. Maria had been fortunate enough to successfully interview Justin Sullivan, the lead singer of New Model Army for her new book about how music affects you emotionally so she was buzzing. We headed off to Zizzi’s for pizza then a quick dip into Temple Bar to check out the ambiance/Irish music then swiftly moving on to the venue (Opium) stopping for a pint in the pub next door. Once into the venue, we caught the support band (sounded like the Mission to me) and checked out the merch. Band finally came on playing some bangers, some new stuff and quite a bit of chat from the singer. He must have been inspired from his earlier interview 😉. Sound wasn’t great but that was more the venue. Great to watch the lighting lady too. She was having a great time and doing a marvellous job. Mesmerising. Called it a night after the gig with the guys grabbing a quick wrap on the way back to our hotel.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 3

    Sightseeing with friends

    April 19 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Slept well in our only hotel stay of the trip, taking advantage of the shower then met up with Fredrik and Maria for breakfast. The plan being to get out in the van and visit a few of the many, many historic/scenic places in the area for our last day with them.
    We headed north of Dublin to our first stop of a 5000 year old megalithic burial site though we couldn’t actually visit the actual tombs as it required a 2 hour guided tour that didn’t start until a little later - no time for that! My mistake not researching better. On to the next stop, a ruined abbey (Slane Abbey) in the dreary rain making for a more ambient scene. Ambled about on the site for a bit then cracked on to the next ruin, Old Mellifont Abbey, a little more east. Another ruin but the rain began to ease, thankfully. Couple of snaps here then onward again, to the east coast. We headed to Ardgillan Castle in Skerries which is a small castle by the sea. An actual complete building this time taken over by the council, a little like an arts centre. We had much needed tea and cake in the tearooms then meandered around the lovely grounds which also lead down to the sea front. The sun came out with force by then so made a complete contrast to the earlier part of the day. Drove on to the other end of the town to find somewhere to eat enjoying the sea and sun, Maria and Fredrik commenting on how they’re not used to the low/high tide as Sweden is a non tidal country. Had a nice dinner then took the guys back to Dublin, mindful that we had to drive on to our new stopping point before it got dark. After quick farewells on the main stretch in Dublin we drove only a little way north of Dublin to our stopover for the night and caught up on some tv. Ready to start the next stretch of our adventure - head north.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 4

    Into Northern Ireland

    April 20 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    After another wild camp, went for brekkie.
    My turn to drive northbound over the border into Northern Ireland. A very underwhelming border crossing however beautiful scenery. Headed for the Mourne mountains, reminded me a lot of the Peak District. Had a little walk around Silent Valley Mountain Park then drove on to a town called Newcastle to stop for a brew and (wedding) cake on the beach. Checked on my gran who’d had another fall - she’s ok. Trying to eat an eclair stood up was never going to end well!
    Headed on to Tollymore forest park in the hope that we may book their campsite but they were full. Lovely sunny weekend so no go, The park is where some of Game of Thrones was filmed. Looked like something else was in the early set up stages of being filmed too? This was a lovely walk also, beautifully well maintained woodland along waterfalls/streams. Spring has well and truly sprung here too so lots of blossoms and wild flowers. Didn’t see any red squirrels, sadly. Drove a little more north to a village called Whiterock in County Down, right by Strangford Lough, again very scenic. Burgers for tea then a call with Alex/sleepy Leo. Gary watched the footy and I checked out the scenery. All on a Saturday night! Belfast tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 5

    Belfast

    April 21 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Nice drive in to Belfast, so quiet around the city as shops don’t open until later in the day but the indoor Victorian market was open so we headed there first. Only a quick visit though as had a walking tour booked. Marti was definitely an eclectic character as per his own description but he was a very knowledgeable fellow giving us great background, history and detail of Ireland, Belfast, the ‘troubles’ and Belfast now and the future. It was only the 2 of us on the tour so he tailored the sights to us showing historical buildings, street art and some fascinating places. He quickly realised we knew not a lot about a lot so stopped asking us teacher style “who was” “where did” questions and just chatted. Was a great starting couple of hours introduction to the city. Marti was a nice man. We did get accosted by a drunkard but Marti handled him like a marine!
    When we were finished we found a lovely restaurant for a roast then a little more wandering the city. Surprisingly still relatively quiet and barely any cars, really nice to see. Would love to come back again and visit in the evening, some great character bars and culture. Drove over to the Titanic district but didn’t do the museum as time was getting on. Continued on to our first campsite of the trip, just south of Belfast, so we could use the facilities. Did a chat with the babies, missing them all. Lucas been a bit poorly over the weekend - starting pre-school icks.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 6

    N Ireland sightseeing

    April 22 in Northern Ireland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Managed to get a run in as we had facilities (shower), brekkie, water replenish then off to our first stop - Gleno waterfall, north of Belfast. Little walk around, chatted to some locals who had just bathed in it (chilly) then carrying on northbound following the Causeway Coastal route to our next stop, Cushenden caves. A lovely bracing walk along the beach though the cave was v small. Quite scenic though. Made a quick brew then on to our next stop, Dark Hedges. A line of beech trees planted in the 1700‘s along a road that have grown over the road in an artistic way as now made famous in Game of Thrones. We need to research places more before we arrive as we paid a fiver for the carpark (touristy cash cow) when we could have pulled up further/closer especially as it’s only a short visit and quiet during the week, just to take some snaps. Was lovely though. Next, bit of a hike to Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge that transverses 2 small islands that salmon fisherman used to use to get themselves down to the sea. Quite exhilarating crossing especially in the wind. We debated finding a stopover by this point but time was still early enough to carry on with the trail we’d mapped out. So onwards to a little village called Ballintoy harbour which we would’ve actually stayed at but turns out we couldn’t anyway (‚no overnight camping’ signs). The approach to the harbour was stunning, zigzagging down the hill to the sea. Another filming location and I can see why. Can’t beat a coastal scene. Quick wander around then on to Giant’s Causeway. Another bit of a trek but the late afternoon sun was starting to come out making the views lovely again. Quite impressive, the stones. As we were a little later, the info centre was closed but we researched the stones anyway. A major volcanic eruption many million years ago causing the basalt rocks to form under high pressure. Bonkers how nature works! Another long walk back up the hill back to the van and we were done! 6 stops today and around 10 miles of walking. Lovely to follow quite a bit of the Causeway Coastal route giving stunning views of the coast/sea. A couple of miles up the road was our stopover for the night, cook dinner then catch up on MAFS. Zzzzz.Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 7

    Back in to Ireland

    April 23 in Northern Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

    Sad to leave Northern Ireland as the scenery has been stunning but looking forward to continuing on to discovering the rest of Ireland too. Before we left N Ireland we popped in to another derelict castle called Dunluce. Nice little wander then on through Londonderry to cross the border (with the fam) then up to the most northerly point in Ireland, Malin Head. A different, very rugged landscape. Quite epic. We walked the rugged coastline to ‚hell‘s hole‘ - 2 rock faces with dramatic waves then over to the look out/signal post/Eire sign used during the war. V windy and bracing. This point is also the start of the Wild Atlantic way, the coastal route all the way down south that we hope to follow.
    Next was a bit of a drive down to Donegal stopping just a couple of times to stretch our legs including a little woodland full of bluebells and wild flowers. Very pretty. Have definitely come at a good time as there’s spring growth and blossoms everywhere, very lovely.
    Arrived at Donegal, by the harbour, our stopover for the night. Ready for our dinner so found a nice old pub next to the (small) castle ruins nearby. Had a bit of a walk in the lovely evening sun around the little harbour/ruined abbey, waiting for the footy to start. By then, the car park became a bit of a drugs run? Constant stream of cars back and forth, in and out, sitting, waiting, then more car swapping, mostly men, in pairs, not all young. It was quite bemusing just how many there were. What a hub we’d stumbled across. Ironically, the Garda station, plus 2 cars is just opposite the car park! An older man pulled up next to one of the bins, lifted off the main bin and put a large red bag inside then drove off. When the council emptied the bins this morning, it had gone! It was such an interesting evening, who needs football for entertainment? It’s not even a quiet, out of the way car park. There were quite a few of us parked up, right next to the high street. Anyway, we weren’t murdered in our bed so ready for lots of driving today!    Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 8

    Driving

    April 24 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Yesterday was all about the driving - 250 miles, around 6 hours! We left Donegal heading southwest, mostly along the scenic wild Atlantic way route, beautiful landscapes from sea, wilderness, mountains, sheep (and lambs) everywhere . I lost count of the times I said, “this is lovely“. First stop was Dun Briste sea stack, a huge rock separated from the mainland over millennia. Photos never do the scenery justice. Gary got the drone out too for a fly around. There’s quite a few large Eire signs on the ground made from rocks around the country, one of which was here (plus at Malin Head) that warned pilots during the war that they were flying over neutral Ireland. Stretched our legs a bit then on for the next leg of driving. To Achill Island, a rugged, but beautiful island off the west coast. Banshees of Inisherin recently filmed here. Lots of lovely free roaming sheep and their babes everywhere, so lovely. Please don’t eat lamb, people!
    We headed to the gorgeous Keem beach, the approach being down the mountain, a little like Spain, towards the parking area. We were so lucky that there was barely a cloud in the sky and being so sheltered it was a lovely, warm day - the bay looked like we were abroad, crystal clear, turquoise water, sandy beach.. until we got in. Was freezing! As expected. We didn’t stay in for long. Was invigorating though. Back to the van to get changed then onwards again to Galway. What with the rush hour traffic by then we didn’t get to our campsite just outside Galway until 7ish. Checked in and headed straight for the bus into town. Which didn’t show so we shared a cab with another lady from said bus stop. Dropped in the city at the Latin Quarter, where the Craic is, apparently. Bit more of a cultural vibe, reminded Gary of Hastings, true. Had a wander but really needed to eat, quite busy in the street so went a little outbound to a Thai restaurant which was beautiful, good amount of spice to our Thai curries. Went to find the oldest pub (not open) so the next on, The Quays, still 400+ years old with a live band playing modern then Irish songs whilst Gary watched the footy on the screen in the old man bar! Lovely fresh Guinness and 0% for Gaz. Wanted to see another bar called the Crane Bar, because why not but the description didn’t really match up. Was more a rough estate pub than the swanky bar that was promised. Quick snap of a gnarly, incoherent man by the pub then retreated back to the pub we’d just come from. After the footy finished we caught a cab back to the site to sort the van for the night of everything that we had dumped and run earlier.
    Halfway through the trip now. Half way around the island and over 1000 miles driven so far. We are on schedule and weather has been cold, windy but more importantly, mostly dry, thankfully though I think rain is expected.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 9

    Easy day

    April 25 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Stayed on the most expensive campsite, taking advantage that they’re the only one and motorhomes aren’t encouraged at all in the city. Charged €44 for the night but we had to pay extra for the showers (that wouldn’t wet a mouse) and washing up, had we needed it! Shameful.
    As we are a little ahead of schedule it allowed us to do a few things such as early morning run whilst observing lots of sea swimmers, much needed clothes washing and a little food shop/brekkie whilst we waited for it including a lovely chat with the Cordells. Popped into Galway city but didn’t feel too inspired. Chatted to an ‘Army fan though who had also gone to the gig in Dublin. It started to rain so we headed on further south towards the Burren region in County Clare. Quite a barren, rugged landscape but just as spectacular as the rest of the country. We stopped at Aillwee Burren showcaves. Good thing to do whilst it rained. We had a guided tour around the cave, discovered by a farmer around 1940 but he kept it a secret until the 70s. A fascinating cave dating back millions of years created by a river, mind blowing. Bear remains were found there from hibernating bears dating back 10,000 years ago. That’s a long nap! Our tour guide was really good and so were the caves. The entry fee also included visiting their birds of prey centre. It was getting close to closing time so we’d missed the displays but as we were walking around, one of the trainers asked if we’d like to view one of their practices. Of course! A young man was learning the ropes and they brought out an African white backed vulture called Dyson. I’m guessing he hoovers everything up as this was also an exercise class for him as apparently he is a little overweight (vulture fat shaming!) We got lots of information about the species and how they are (wrongly) frowned upon, their poor reputation when in fact all the good they do that is misinformed. Such a beautiful bird as it soared very closely over our heads. Amazing experience and great timing from us. We skipped off happy in to their cheese shop, stocked up on cheese and fudge then on to our stopover in Bunratty just north of limerick, right next to a castle for the night. Popped in to the local pub next door for a strategic use of facilities. An old pub dating back to 1620, lovely features inside decked out with tons of police patches from mostly US adorning the ceilings/walls and every surface. Fascinating if not random. A guy playing acoustic Irish songs in the corner was a nice touch too. Back to the van for cheese fest Ernie and Bert style - crumbs in the bed.    Read more

  • TravelerIreland road trip
    Day 10

    Start of Ring of Kerry

    April 26 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We’d parked by a castle overnight so felt we should probably go and visit it after our breakfast in the village. Bunratty castle is one of the only complete castles in Ireland. Original site was a Viking camp in 970, a castle being built on in 1425 then restored in the 50s to what it is today. The grounds also contain a village of various types of dwellings, shops, school etc from different ages in Ireland. Was an interesting morning spent looking around. We then headed off past Limerick and south again to pick up the Ring of Kerry, a 179km scenic circular route around one of the south peninsulas. The original reason I wanted to do the Ireland road trip.
    We started at Killarney and began clockwise round as recommended so we don’t get caught behind buses and large motorhomes. We only did a small stretch but the scenery was already stunning, shear drops overlooking woodland or vast lakes, mountains, very green. Very windy roads a lot like the Furka Pass in Switzerland. There are lots of historical/natural wonders around the Ring that we can just stop at. Everything seems very well signed which is handy as the phone signal is intermittent. We stopped for a walk through the woodland to Torc waterfall then further on stopping at a high up viewing vista called Ladies View where Queen Victoria once came. Beautiful view. We continued on to find somewhere to stay. Where we hoped to, in Kenmare, was right next to a stone circle. There were no overnight camping signs so that was a no go however we visited the small stone circle anyway. The guy running the entrance was giving out little cards to write wishes on and hang on the wishing tree by the stones. Very sweet idea. Made our wishes and thanked the goddesses as a little robin flew down and landed on the stone next to me. The symbolism of our ancestors wasn’t lost on me. I was quite touched.
    We continued on and stopped for pizza in the same village. Not really anywhere to stay but the chef at the restaurant gave us some tips. These didn’t pan out so we drove further along to a motorhome stopover in Sneem, by the water. No facilities but a nice view. Popped into the local pub to use their facilities then a quick wander around the village whilst the sun set. We will complete the Ring tomorrow.    Read more

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