Sticky Falls
4. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
And the second and last stop: Sticky Falls, also known as Buatong Waterfall.
That was fun! You go downstairs to the beginning of the waterfall and then hike it up – in the falling water. So much fun!
Contrary to what intuition might tell you, it wasn’t at all slippery. You could easily manage barefoot. Though, that was too pedestrian for my taste, so I glamorously slipped on my new aqua shoes (I had a pair from New Zealand that were growing a few cultures without my permission, so I got uncultered ones in Australia).
I liked having done that, because I’m pretty sure my toes and feet wouldn’t have appreciated the terrain as much without that extra protective layer.
It was so much fun hiking up, I did it a second time.
The waterfall forked a few times, so the second time around, I took the paths I hadn’t taken previously.
Unfortunately, the paths were beleaguered by countless (!) tourists with not a single modicum of respect or consideration whatsoever when it comes to their bloody self-celebrating selfie sessions! I’ve honestly had it.
There were long sections of the waterfall where it was more stop than go. One step forward, waiting. Waiting all the time for people finishing their bloody picture session on top of the fall, which incidentally they had been doing at every spot that allowed for it – which was – I’m not exaggerating here – every 1 or 2 meters.
I’m so very flabbergasted by this. I just don’t get it. They’re not even in it for the activity, but for Instagram and TikTok, ruining it for everyone else (very few people, unfortunately)!
While I do try to be considerate with others taking pictures and not walk through the frame (I assure you, no one else there or elsewhere extended you that courtesy the other way around), I just couldn’t be asked to stop every 2 meters. There were so many people around, you were just bound to photobomb several of their pics.
I threw consideration out of the window and hiked on wherever possible, stomping through the water in a huff.
Just close to the end – see aforementioned description – it was impossible.
After that, I wanted some peace and quiet and spotted a short hike – some 150m – to a cold water fountain.
Wow, that was peaceful and beautiful. And hardly anyone was there. Two more people that I saw.
I enjoyed that thoroughly and then went back to rehydrate myself with a flavourful coconut before our 1.5h drive back to Chiang Mai central.
I took some time to chill and organise stuff and decided to take a look at the much talked-about Night Bazaar.
It was large! A lot larger than I thought. The things you could buy: polyester shirts featuring elephants or beer brand names, beautiful handcrafted woodwork, candles, figurines, etc.; street food (I’m quite fond of morning glory – no matter which way I put that, it will come out wrong… – and I had corn on the cob which smelled divine, but alas, it was way too shrivelled and burnt – unfortunately inedible).
Once I had decimated my dinner, I called a Grab bike to get me back to the hostel.
Usually, they just expect you to hop onto the bike and be fine with that.
I, however, tend to insist on a helmet. In Bali, a lot of them simply didn’t have a spare one and sometimes gave you theirs instead.
But my driver had an extra one – with one caveat: you couldn’t actually close it. It was just waiting for a breeze at the right angle to fall off my head.
Also, the way he was driving – you could say it was reckless, sure. In between cars, sudden stops and accelerations, slaloming around the cars in dense traffic…
Everyone has their style of driving, but I can’t help but stand by mine: the life-preserving one.
P.S.: No camera for the Sticky Falls, so more crude snapshottery.Les mer
Land of Angels
4. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
A calmer schedule for today, thankfully!
Another tour, but this one only had 2 stops.
The first stop – Land of Angels Waterfall Park – was an entirely man-made park filled with waterfalls (I’m not explaining this very well, am I? 😁).
It had plenty of flowers, goats, trees engulfed by mist, treehouses, and little rivulets. At the end, there was a café and a few food/drink stalls where I got the most nicely decorated drink I’ve had in a long time! That’s what I’m talking about!
(Could have done without the plastic, though.)
Taking pictures at the park, however, was a bit of a pain and I gave up. The high amount of mist – everywhere – clouded up my lens, and that was that. Rather annoying, but whatcha gonna do… All in all, the park has more to offer than I was able to capture.Les mer
Doi Inthanon, Twin Pagodas and Hiking
3. juni, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Next stop: Doi Inthanon – the highest point in Thailand.
Doi Inthanon rises to 2,565 m above sea level in the western Himalayas of northern Thailand. The name means “Mount Indan” or “Inthan Mountain,” named after the northern Thai ruler Chao Inthawichayanon, whose body was interred in a shrine on the mountain. The shrine is a small white structure near the summit, surrounded by pagodas and gardens.
The forest area was very tranquil and peaceful to look at (minus tourists…).
Since I’m still going through my not-so-gentle cold, my ears protested forcefully at the elevation.
And back to the van.
Next stop: The Twin Pagodas.
The Twin Pagodas (Rong Suea Ten Pagodas) are two prominent pagodas in Chiang Mai: the blue Sapphire Pagoda and the white Ruby Pagoda. They were built to honour the King and Queen of Thailand on their birthdays.
Apart from climbing stairs and covering my oh-so-revealing knees with a sarong (but men could display theirs frivolously…), the pagodas didn’t quite pique my interest.
The last part of the day, however, did.
My congestion and issues with the high elevation had made me feel somewhat meh. Add to that some nausea due to the ever-winding roads, and I felt downright not good at all.
But going for a hike – thankfully mostly downhill – did make me feel better. Not to mention, having an adorable companion in the shape of a wild, but very well-behaved dog who just joined us for the entirety of the 1.5h hike, definitely boosted morale.
My favourite part? We saw a baby viper! Such a pretty green fella! (Our guide informed us – and by us, I mean 2 people out of 6 who were still around to listen – that there would be snakes about shortly after the rain, venomous, don’t touch. 😁)
There were so many people on the hike. As always, that deftly took away from the experience. You couldn’t really pause and just enjoy/take in the surroundings.
The large waterfall looked lovely! And the view into the misty rainforest – dreamy!
And from there it went downhill. Literally. Because that was just the direction in which we were walking. 😁
But also figuratively. The attention-seeking Monsoon felt left out and threw a temper tantrum, absolutely ignoring our being fed up with it. Clearly badly raised!
For about 40 minutes, we were hiking, being soaked to the bone. We soon gave up trying to circumvent the puddles to protect our footwear and just dipped right in there.
Soon, we were joined on our descent by a spontaneously developing waterfall. People had mixed feelings about our new companion.
Eventually, we reached a little café where we were treated to 1 coffee and 3 teas: cascara (made from the shells of the coffee bean, tasting slightly sour but good nonetheless), flower tea with jasmine and stevia leaves and other flowers I forgot about, and my beloved butterfly pea flower tea. I’m just mesmerised by the blue colour!
We got back into the van for the 1.5h ride back to central Chiang Mai with cool AC.
It felt considerably warmer to just keep wearing my soaked blue trashbag poncho, so I did, much to the amusement of the driver. 😁
I was not feeling too hot under the collar at the end of the day and hopped into bed really early. Well. Not that I could sleep that early. Someone really loved the German playlist that blasted through every dorm within a 300m radius. I’ve never hated Helene Fischer’s “Atemlos” quite so much.Les mer
Elephant Sanctuary
3. juni, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C
Long day ahead!
I joined a tour to explore Chiang Mai, or more accurately, the area around the city.
First stop – and my favourite – the elephant sanctuary.
The elephants there were rescued from their former place, meaning they were either used for work (felling trees) or for tourism (people riding elephants).
Due to animal welfare campaigns and shifting consumer demand, many commercial camps and sanctuaries have abandoned elephant riding. It’s not yet officially outlawed in Thailand and can still be done, though.
The sanctuary our group went to is progressive and advocates for animal (elephant) rights.
Once at the sanctuary, surrounded by mountainous rainforest, you get a blue shirt to put on – apparently, the elephants are conditioned to expect food from people dressed in blue. I fondly gazed at my reflection. I must say, jeans blue suits me. 😁
We were warned what to do and what not to do. I was happy to hear they take the welfare of the animals seriously. Also, considering an elephant weighs 4 tons (I should know…), you might not want to give in to tomfoolery around them.
You also get a bag that you can comfortably wear around your shoulder, filled with plenty of little bananas to feed the elephants.
We were told that they consider bananas a special treat and that they’re not part of their routine diet – to avoid diabetes. Also, since they have to eat about a tenth of their body weight daily (I could get behind that…), that would be a lot of bananas! 400 kg, in fact. (Though, I do wonder – they get tourists quite frequently, and I’m sure they all feed them bananas…)
The elephants are in a fenced area, but they can easily get out by walking through an elephant-sized opening. 😁
They had 3 elephants there that day (that number is prone to change, as they have several camps spread throughout the rainforest and the elephants are free to move between them).
One of them was said to be particularly cheeky and destructive – a 14-year-old teen – another one a 35-year-old, and an elder, around 56 years old, all of them females.
You hold out the banana by the stem and let the elephant do the rest.
They grab it with their trunks and devour it within fractions of a second. And then the trunk will poke you for more. My bananas went to the hungry teen and I was out in about 1 minute. Geez!
They just couldn’t accept that soon we all were out of bananas. So, they walked out of the fenced area and tried to ask us more directly. It was cute, honestly. They particularly poked one of the workers there with their trunks rather relentlessly.
The elephants accepted that there would be no more bananas and started to walk to the muddy river with us. It’s a bit odd when you’re sharing a path with an elephant and just quickly make way for it to walk ahead of you. 😁
Once we got to the river, the elephants requested a bath. We were given a little plastic bowl with which we doused the elephants with river water.
This was also around the time when we were told to stay away from their behinds, as the digestion window was progressing to the end stage, slowly but surely.
The bathing came to an end and our grey friends moved to a muddy spot to put on some SPF 50+.
And that was about it. We had a yummy lunch (Pad Thai), and that’s when we were reminded of monsoon season having started. That was a lot of rain! It looked scenic from our roofed lunch spot.
It turned less scenic fast once we had to walk back to the car…Les mer
Arriving in Chiang Mai
2. juni, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
I arrived in Chiang Mai shortly past 6 am, having peeked a beautiful sunrise from the bus window.
Now, while I kinda regretted not having had a proper chance to explore Bangkok (also not really having clicked with what I had seen), my first impression of Chiang Mai is very different! Not nearly as busy, noisy, exhaust-fume heavy, crowded as Bangkok and the buildings look more welcoming (less muddy/grey, decrepid than the ones in Bangkok).
Since I wasn’t big on clocking many hours of sleep over the past 2 nights in particular, I took it decidedly easy today. I explored a bit, liking what I saw.
Then I decided to hang out at the hostel for a bit after I could finally complete the check-in at 2pm.
Hanging out in the dorm was not possible at all since the AC is only on from 5pm on until 9 am or so in the morning. Throughout the day, the rooms are very furnace-like.
It was 35°C+ in the dorm.
So, I sat in the common area to make plans.
A guy sitting close to me started smoking (not a fan) and, seeing the sign that said not to smoke around there, I asked him to kindly move away a bit. He pointed out that the beloved sign that prohibits smoking refers exclusively to weed. Not cigarettes.
Ok, I said, my mistake and looked around for a smoke-free area to sit in. I couldn’t find one and consulted with reception. The lady behind the counter was less than enthusiastic to have been disturbed (I mean, fair enough. When I play computer games, I also only wanna focus on that task…).
I laid out my desire for clean air. She told me that, well, nah, they don’t really have smoke-free areas. But on the second floor it should be fine.
Now, let’s quickly explore the layout of the building. Two floors, entirely congruous, open, facing the inner courtyard where people smoked like chimneys.
So. Where does smoke go? Yes, everywhere. It certainly rises. In fact, there’s no way around it.
I tried to explain that to the receptionist. But it just didn’t click.
She said to just go to the dorms if that’s such a problem for me. I pointed out that this is practically impossible.
She was reluctant and agreed to start the AC 2 hours earlier than planned, but that this won’t be a solution for the next few days and that I better plan my stay outside of the hostel…
Honestly, it’s not a lot to ask for a space to exist without having to passive smoke. I was very much put out.
Yearning dearly for some sleep, I wanted to go to bed early. Ha! If only. It’s another “social” hostel. Remember what that means? You can’t sleep before midnight. Bloody hell. The bass was truly offensive.
So my sleep deprivation lingered.Les mer
One Night in Bangkok
30. mai, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C
Ok, so the title was a lie. Big fat whopper. While I did spend a night in Bangkok, 2 more will follow. I just wanted to infuse a little earworm into your minds to share the song that has been living rent free in my head ever since I arrived here. 😄
I was rather looking forward to moving on from Krabi, actually. I think where I stayed in Krabi took away from the experience. The region has a lot more to offer than what I saw, I’m sure.
So, in the morning of 29.05.26, I flew to Bangkok.
I heard many great things about this place and was ready to explore! I walked around for a bit on the day of arrival, but not much else happened, actually.
I do wanna note how incredibly hot it is here. The heat practically slaps you in the face.
For the next day, meaning today for the purposes of the blog post date, I had booked a tour. After having had really good ones in Penang and Kuala Lumpur, having seen all the good places and even getting a few treats here and there, I was looking forward to getting to know Bangkok and getting a few tips from a local.
Said local, an immaculately dressed man in his late sixties, met his group at 9am sharp.
His group being the minimum amount of people it takes to justify using the word “group”.
There were more people, apparently, who kept texting the guide telling him that they’ll be a few minutes late etc. etc. Well, our guide wouldn’t have it. He kept saying “Toxic people, such toxic people, being late!” with such despicable vigour that I was actually quite amused.
So, of course, we didn’t wait and started the tour that would last almost 2 hours.
The guide - well - while I kinda liked him, he was very straightforward with the tour. We walked to an “old school” mall, according to him, through a flower market, the 4th biggest in the world, apparently. We walked past temples and eventually boarded a bus for two short stops to avoid the heat for a bit and he left us in an underground area with AC and free public bathrooms that I paid a visit.
As a little aside here, just as I was walking to my chosen stall, I walked past another one, in front of which a cleaning lady just stood, getting ready to clean up after each occupant.
I saw the lady stand there, completely still, frozen. I also saw why. It was bad. I shall say no more than that. Only that I then heard a long, extended, disheartened scream emanating from the cleaning lady. That wail - while this was a really bad day for her - made me chuckle. Just picturing her just standing there, taking in the scene, putting all the frustration into those 15 seconds at the top of her lungs - yep, it was rather comically absurd.
Back to the end of the tour.
Did I get to know Bangkok better? Not really. The guide’s style was more like: walking, occasionally pointing left, right and forward, saying, “This is the palace”, “This is the reclining Buddha”, “Go here for the best exchange rate in Bangkok”.
It was short and not particularly immersive. The guide was nice, though, but I’m not sure about the objective of a tour through Bangkok having been met. 😄
He did, however, help me by letting me know where I might find Khanom Tom - a Thai dessert, if you recall, that I tried in Sydney for the first time and grew somewhat addicted to. Ah, good times!
So, after the tour had been concluded, I swiftly took a ferry across the river and followed my instincts that reliably led me to the Wang Lang Market where I found 2 sources of Khanom Tom. Absolute bliss!
I did try to explore the market a bit, but boy, oh, boy, the multitude of people stopping and going was too much for me. I escorted myself back to the other side of the river and hiked back to the hostel. I had had plans for the evening, but a thunderstorm and me being quite exhausted from hiking in the heat all day, had me enjoy a quiet night at the hostel, which incidentally, is a little oasis filled with plants and chill vibes. If you got rid of the other people… 😄
Oh, incidentally. Crossing streets in Bangkok is an absolute pain. Traffic is heavy, there’s oftentimes 10+ traffic lanes, rarely a traffic light. There are some pedestrian crossing points, BUT they might as well not be there because no one will ever stop for you.
What I learnt from Hakim, the tour guide in Kuala Lumpur (holding out your hand, making eye contact with the driver and just crossing), didn’t work in Bangkok.
Therefore, I asked our guide for some prime tips. His not verbatim answer:
“Crossing roads is terrible in Bangkok. No one will stop for you. It is all about the body language. You must look determined to cross and just do it. But that also often doesn’t work because it makes drivers speed up when they see that. They’re very rude! So, what you do is you look at the drivers and pray. You put your hands together and take a bow. Like this, you beg them for mercy not to speed up and run you over.”
And yeah, while his account made me chuckle, he wasn’t exactly kidding. 😄
P.S.: Since I don’t really stand a chance of getting decent sleep at night without a second pillow, like at this otherwise really nice hostel, I am using a substitute: my toiletry bag that I gently cradle at night. 😄
PPS: Please forgive my crude snapshottery from the hurried tour photos at the end (flower market etc.).Les mer
ATV in Krabi
28. mai, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
I wanted to go to Koh Phi Phi island today - often cited as a must-see location in Krabi.
But… The ferry ride was quite long and I really didn’t feel like being in a boat today in the rain (forecast was dire).
Also, I felt the need for some action. Therefore, I decided to relive my glorious ATV experience in Bali.
Tour booked in the morning (well rated online), suddenly the proclaimed free pickup for the Krabi area didn’t quite exist anymore. I was told that I’m in a location that is an exception to the free pickup. Suuure. I was informed that I can pay for my pick-up, of course. But, as it so happens, it cost quite a bit more than just taking a Grab. So, a Grab I took.
Once there, I expected the usual shebang. Signing waivers, having a briefing about the vehicle, the track, etc.
It went like this: I entered the building, was told to sit down, they took a photo of my passport, then I was told to follow some guy. The guy guided me to the ATVs wordlessly. He gestured at two of the ATVs, saying “Mine, yours.”
He waited for me to sit on mine. He pointed again, saying “Gas… Break…,” and then pointed to a thing directly next to my left leg and said “Don’t touch”.
He proceeded to sit on his ATV and drive away.
Wow. 😄
I do recall that I specifically asked the tour organiser the day before if anything like a poncho would be provided or about more details in general.
All I got was a verbose “Yes.” And nothing had been provided in the slightest.
So, since the 2 second briefing was over quite apparently, I set to follow the loquacious “guide” on my ATV. I will say though, for my auditory processing disorder, that was as easy a list of instructions as it gets. 😄
Let’s have a little trip down memory lane: Bali. ATV through the jungle, through rivers, through caves, up steep inclines, down steep inclines, surrounded by beautiful nature, several guides following a group of people, 2 photographers with quite good cameras strategically situated along the track, stops along the way for refreshments, a shower plus towels provided, complimentary drinks, a long waiver to sign at the beginning, providing details of a person to contact in case of injury, warnings about physical capabilities and their limits, the dangers of the activity and even possible death and a lengthy introduction to and demonstration of the functionality of the vehicle.
Now!
In the case of Krabi ATV, I was actually the only one in my “group” (playing fast and loose with that term here). Communication was non-existent. English was non-existent. Protection, equipment etc. pp. were non-existent.
So I followed my guide through the jungle track for an hour. It was a somewhat challenging off-road track - but only through the same bit of jungle, there was no variety of nature, nothing. To be fair, that’s entirely fine IF it is mentioned on the website. The way they did phrase it sounded far more like the Bali experience.
There were a few inclines and downhill-sections, uneven terrain and a fair amount of puddles with varying depth.
Ah. Another detail comes to mind. In Bali, we were provided with rubber boots. Because your feet/shoes will get absolutely drenched for sure.
Well, they did! I can vouch for that. After I had painstakingly tried to dry them from the muddy layer from the previous day…
While I will say that the activity itself was fun, the whole set-up and lack of things, prominently among them communication, cast a rather large shadow over the activity.
After about 15 minutes, the guide stopped, said “photo” and gestured at my phone. I handed it over and he took a few photos.
Then he kept my phone in his hand, camera still aimed at me, walked back to his ATV, sat down and - drove off, arm outstretched, facing me.
I was rather amused and worried at the same time. It certainly looked funny the way that unfolded. But - not that I necessarily thought he might steal it - he kept my phone stretched out with one arm, recording my skilled driving, while steering his vehicle one-armed, mainly not looking where he was going, but looking at my screen, making sure it was recording. The terrain was bumpy to say the least! Really bumpy! I was indeed worried that he was gonna a) drop my phone entirely or b) that my credit cards would just fall out and possibly land in a ditch or those countless, deep murky puddles we drove through. 😄
Ah. Well. My phone was fine, as well as the cards.
As an aside - the thing next to my leg he told me not to touch, it grew extremely hot while driving. So not touching was the absolute best thing to do. Then why, I wonder, wasn‘t there a protective shield? The way that thing was positioned - you‘d naturally just touch it with your calves. Well, so much for that. 😄
At the end of the hour, we parked the ATV and the guide pointed to a shower head dangling from a wooden board. Ah! Cool. I could use that to spray myself down.
I did what could be done - at least for my arms and legs.
The entire back of my shirt and trousers were batiked in mud.
I tried to rub that away as much as possible (meh), hoping that my Grab driver would even let me into the car.
My shoes were dripping wet. Luckily, I had brought flipflops, too, but the wet shoes are never fun, especially since you kinda need them a lot and drying takes ages. Plus they positively reek!
Upon walking out of the building, I was given a few pieces of watermelon on a plate with gladwrap that just didn’t care to adhere to the paper plate in the slightest and allowed for the watermelon juices to happily drip away into my bag.
Ah, well.
Back at the hostel, I tried to blow-dry my shoes and did a load of laundry — only to find that yesterday’s returned laundry was still very much damp, had started to smell, and carried a second smell that suggested it had been hanging somewhere near someone smoking meat.
The famous Tiger Cave Temple - a lookout point with 1,260 stairs and reportedly stunning views - was out of the question. No dry shoes, heavy rain, and a bone-deep tiredness had collectively made that decision for me. Krabi central it was instead. A modern shopping centre, unexpectedly not entirely roofed. But at least something else to look at but the stained walls in my hostel cell. 😄
Let’s mention something positive: My lunch experience. A place that claims to have an international cuisine, but really it was sushi-dominant Asian fusion with an option of fries and carbonara, oh, and a slice of pizza.
But: It was a buffet, meaning you chose from a meal plan that had a few specific dishes to choose from. You paid for the meal plan, received a barcode that you could scan and order away as many dishes as you could eat. The open kitchen floor plan showed the countless chefs and cooks preparing meals and the numerous waiters always on their feet, bringing your meals to the table.
After plenty of confusion as to how all of that worked, no English, and Google Translate to communicate with the waiters, I received my meals that were very delicious indeed!
Second greatest sushi I’ve had so far. The best one still being the restaurant in Uluwatu, Bali.Les mer
Railay
27. mai, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
Railay Beach comes highly recommended and deserved a visit of yours truly.
The speedboat ride there didn’t take too long, around 30 minutes, so that was certainly to my liking. The weather also seemed to be nice enough.
The beach is indeed beautiful. While busy-ish, I’m pretty sure that since monsoon season is about to start, that it was fairly quiet for the locals around there.
Countless establishments at Railay try to give you a magical experience. They sell so much weed and mushrooms!
Speaking of souvenirs, I went to explore the area and happened upon a beach on the other side with 2 little half-caves entirely dedicated to “Phra Nang”. Phra Nang is a local deified spirit — a princess, according to legend — who is said to have drowned near the peninsula after her ship sank. Sailors and fishermen have long venerated her, believing she controls the sea and can grant good fortune. The cave shrine is filled with dozens of carved wooden phalluses, offerings left by locals who believe they bring fertility and prosperity. It is, to put it mildly, quite the sight. 😄 I sure hope customs doesn’t take issue with all my new tokens… 😄
Now I wanted to go to a famous lookout point. Apparently, I had previously walked past the track unknowingly. I just didn’t see a path at all!
I retraced my steps, referring with google maps and came to a halt. I turned to face an imposing wall of rocks, roughly 90m tall.
That was the trail.
There was a muddy, zero-faith instilling, lubricious rope dangling from the rocks. Well. I thought to give it a shot. I had heard from a source that it is indeed feasible and should only take about 15-20 minutes.
I was determined to make it.
But determination turned into hope, which turned into doubt, which turned into fear.
I think I made it more than halfway before I decided to turn around. My stamina would have allowed me to go on, that wasn’t the issue. Also, it was kinda fun. But: I just couldn’t find a reliable rock to fit my foot anymore. It was muddy all over, very slippery, so every bit of seeming security I could find in a crevice was built on a very shaky concept of poriferous trust. Add to that my ever-heavy backpack trying its best to pull me closer to sea level plus the panic-inducing prospect of having to make it down again…
I decided to just go back. I had climbed about 60m — or so my watch claimed — and heard people facing “The Wall”, hoping for a fun hike to the lookout point, stating variants of “Nope”, or “Hell no!” and pattering away into the distance.
While I was descending, I was filled to the brim with adrenaline and fear held at bay by the aforementioned adrenaline. Well. It kept playing peekaboo…
Maddie’s saying “You can go down on your butt or the mountain will bring you to your butt” was a mantra in my head that guided me down far more reliably than the ropes did.
I made it eventually! But boy, oh, boy. My knees were shaky for a while after that, let me tell ya.
I will say, that while the mud was entirely unhelpful, it was quite beneficial when it was dry and functioned as gym chalk - what you use to have a better, less sweaty grip.
Not at all sorry that I had failed, I wobbled off in search of a food source.
Soon thereafter, I felt it was time to skedaddle back to the boat.
We boarded, the anthracite clouds gathering quickly and looming above us, foreboding a decent downpour.
It started as soon as we left the shore. Even though the little boat had a roof, there was absolutely no escaping the rain. I was inconveniently seated directly at the end of the boat, taking the brunt of the rain from the side. The others got wet, for sure. The rain also created a little rivulet on the bench we were sitting on, reliably touching base with everyone.
There was a woman sitting across from me, holding her newborn child, her husband sitting next to her. Now, I got fairly enraged by how this played out. It was evident from the moment we were sitting down that it was gonna rain and that those sitting closest to the end of the boat were gonna be the wettest. Why on earth wouldn’t the man offer his wife and their baby to sit in a more protected seat? Why? The baby would have been soaking wet at the end of it, its mother as well. That guy’s behavior was just beyond ignorant.
Thankfully, one of the girls sitting around them, shoved their umbrella into the guy’s hand, which he then used to shield his family.
Seeing the umbrella, I thought, actually, yeah, I’ve got one too that I had all but forgotten about. 😄 So I used that as an extra shield and can say that at least one shoulder remained dry. 😄
The next portion of the day was dedicated to cleaning myself up, since I looked like I was rofling in a mud pit.
Then I went for another stroll through the night market where I got scolded brusquely by a stall owner for standing too close (that is quite negotiable and open to interpretation) to his stall without ordering anything. (I was waiting in line for a smoothie, adjacent to his stall, and since there was a line and a junction with people passing left and right, there really wasn’t a different option.)
Sipping my orange/lime smoothie, I turned in for the night.Les mer
Leaving Koh Lipe :( & Arriving in Krabi
26. mai, Thailand
Time to leave Koh Lipe. Ah, I really didn’t want to. I love it there.
I was scootered to the ferry terminal with all my luggage and couldn’t find my ferry/speedboat company anywhere. So I just went to one, showed them my booking, hoping they’d direct me to the company in question. However, they just grabbed my luggage and gave me a boarding pass. I was rather taken by surprise, but content that it was so easy.
We boarded the speedboat… I was sitting somewhere in the front, to the side. Meaning, once the boat accelerates, one part of the butt has undue pressure put on it. That was anything but comfortable for the 1.5h ride.
Every single seat of the boat was taken, and more. Some children sat on the floor.
It was all rather crowded and I was so yearning for the moment I’d step off the boat. But time was in no hurry to progress.
At around 45 minutes into the ride, the crew suddenly gestured for us to put on our lifevests quickly. I was a bit puzzled as to why they only now thought to announce that. A lady next to me translated a bit of what the crew was saying:
Apparently, the boat was too heavy and a few people in the back were at risk of falling off. And also, we were about to drive into a black cluster of clouds not boding well. Uh oh.
It started to rain and despite having spray protection — a roof and side panels of some kind — we still got wet.
The waves were becoming higher and higher, clashing with the boat roaringly. There were countless moments of free fall on the boat that ended with a rough reintroduction to the water surface with a clashing collision.
There was also nowhere to hold on to - no railing whatsoever.
I was nothing short of enthusiastic to get off the boat after finally arriving at the port of Pak Bara Pier.
From there, I was carrying my luggage in the midday heat to find the office that would provide me with onward transportation. No signs anywhere, nothing. Just occasionally people asking where I was going and then pointing me into directions by giving me more directions in broken English. Those are the moments when I really feel at a loss, my auditory processing disorder that goes hand in hand with my underdeveloped sense of navigation just can’t deal with directions. So I just walked. And walked. And would you look at that? I arrived at the right place. 😄
I was put into a van with a few others and had a 4h ride in front of us.
Also not very comfortable. But by far better than the boat.
The driver was a funny one. He spoke a little, a tiny bit of English, not even touching on A1, but he kept mixing up words. Therefore, I frequently didn’t know what he was trying to communicate which greatly amused him, so he giggled away.
An example: When we arrived at my hostel, he parked next to a building, looked at me and said “Where’s hostel?”
I gave him the name of the hostel again and started to open Google Maps to see how far away we’d be. Simultaneously while doing that, I saw on the map that we were directly in front of it and he was giggling again, saying “where’s hostel”, pointing to my right. Ah. He meant: “There”, not “where”… 😄
He kept giggling all through giving me my luggage and again enquiring if I’ve still got my phone as he did throughout the ride because he was convinced that the way I stored it in my pocket, I’d likely lose it. Ah, so much giggling. 😄
My hostel is well-rated but huh. It’s really nothing special. I’ve got my own room, which is only a mattress on the floor with stained grey walls closing in on you.. It’s like bunk beds are split over different rooms. They also aren’t soundproof in the slightest, actually. You hear everything. 😄
In the late afternoon, I was headed to the night market that was luckily a few hundred meters around the corner. Street food galore - from smoothies, juices to sushi, desserts (rumour has it there was mochi - I wouldn’t know anything about that), Thai kebabs, chicken feet, a variety of insects (only one stall, though, to be fair), and lots of hot pot stalls. Hot pot means you choose from a variety of vegetables, proteins and mushrooms whatever you want to be prepared with a soup base like tom yum, tomato, or miso etc. Usually, you get some extra rice or noodles as well. Seems to be very popular, and healthy, actually. I tried it in Perth for the first time. It’s quite the experience. Can recommend. 🙂”Les mer
Chilling on an Island
25. mai, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
Another chill day with not much to do, apart from working on the blog.
I went down to breakfast that had some complimentary gecko droppings on one of my plates - so I refrained from eating once I noticed.
I strolled through the streets and went to the beach in beautiful weather.
Then I sat down on the beach and did my taxes. And talked to the Aussie government for about 20 minutes to be able to do so. As annoying as that was, if you have to do taxes, a beach is definitely a prime location for that. 😄
I enjoyed the location of yesterday’s restaurant so much, that I went there again today, watching the sun set slowly, sipping my watermelon frappe, happily chewing away on my Pad Thai, while being torn apart by mosquitos.
I also tried my first Mango Sticky Rice in Thailand. Yum!!Les mer
Snorkelling in Koh Lipe
24. mai, Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C
In the morning I went down to breakfast that was supposed to start at 8.
I was told, yes, that’s correct, go ahead and order. And once I ordered, I was told, nah, breakfast starts at 9. Without explanations given.
I asked reception again, what is correct, 8 or 9.
Apparently, Sundays are 9, the rest of the week is 8. That’s fine. Only would have been nice had that been communicated in advance.
I scrambled around the area to find something to eat in the pouring rain because I was due to go snorkelling as part of a group in a few minutes.
I only found heavy food and wasn’t very happy with what 7 Eleven had to offer, but I needed something to sustain me.
I was almost wishing for the snorkelling not to take place. It was raining rather heavily.
But it went ahead.
I arrived at the meeting point at 9, as I was told. I had gotten an email a few minutes prior to that stating that no one else booked the half-day tour that I chose, so I’ll join the full day tour. No complaints from my side.
So I waited at the office. And waited. 9 came and went. The staff again didn’t say anything, in spite of questions, they answered them with the most unhelpful short syllables.
They told me 9.30 is the new time.
9.30 came and went.
This was honestly maddening.
10.00 came and went. Eventually, a few more people dropped by. 10.15 we finally walked to the boat.
Let’s just emphasise that I specifically booked an English tour.
Guess which language the guide absolutely didn’t speak in the slightest? Yep.
One of the girls present was from Thailand and was able to translate occasionally, when she wasn’t whooping around ALL THE TIME. It was deafening whoops and the others were startled every time. That’s the sound someone usually makes when there’s danger afoot. But no. She was just happy, I guess.
The first snorkelling spot was in a quite wavy spot. I also got seasick on the spot. Which I couldn’t communicate to the guide with my best efforts. He kept gesturing I go in the water, I tried my best not to contribute to lowering the water’s pH by opening my mouth.
I did try the snorkelling there - it was better than on the boat - but not great either.
The reefs were meh. Grey and brown, an occasional blue. Honestly rather disappointing.
The second spot near a few rocks was better. Lots of sea urchins I hadn’t seen before, but the corals were still grey. Luckily, the water was calmer there.
We went to an island for our lunch - lots of pine trees around - it smelled lovely. Before more people started smoking. While eating lunch. Because, why not?
There was one more snorkelling spot - there was a swarm of fish there that interacted with us because our guide held the skin of the watermelon we had had for lunch underwater and gave us a few pieces. The fish swarmed to the bits of watermelon and readily nibbled on them happily.
That was quite adorable, I’ll say that.
And that was that, the tour was over. A tour that was supposed to have 5 snorkelling spots. Something definitely didn’t work out there…
But since I had only committed to the half day tour originally, it was fine.
That left me time to go to a massage parlour and enjoy being kneaded for 1 hour.
While it was certainly annoying that one of the staff was listening to instagram videos at full volume - the massage itself was enjoyable.
In fact, I went out of that parlour looking only slightly like I was on drugs. 😄
The day wound down with me at a restaurant directly at the beach. My table was so close to the water that the waves kept washing over my feet. And with every wave, my chair sank deeper into the sand… I couldn’t have been that heavy, could I? 😮Les mer
Koh Lipe
23. mai, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
It was time to pack up all my seashells and the rest of my luggage to head to the ferry terminal. Check-in there was rather messy. People here just didn’t speak a whole lot of English and didn’t really communicate with those who did. That made it a little harder to understand that the ticket you received at the check-in was not, in fact, the same ticket you needed to enter the boat. You had to go to another counter to get that. After my name was called out, I finally understood. 😄
The port was particularly scenic. Mountains in the distance, cute colourful boats dipping away with the waves…
And then the ferry finally took off. I preferred to close my eyes to keep the seasickness at bay which was unfortunately exacerbated by my trying to edit pics.
After 1.5h, we arrived at Koh Lipe - Thailand.
We left the ferry to jump into boats that brought us to the beach. Our luggage followed suit on the last two boats.
There seems to be only one type of boat around here, and what they all have in common is extremely black exhaust fumes. I mean that quite literally. Smells incredibly burnt and fuelly. Also not pretty to look at…
Our luggage was dumped at the beach, while everyone who disembarked the ferry was put into a little sandy square, waiting for their names to be called, one by one.
Before we entered the boat, they took our passports and kept them for the entirety of the ferry ride and took their sweet time to hand them out again.
Waiting in that crowd together in the midday sun with considerate as ever smokers who thought it convenient to introduce everyone to the joys of passive smoking, was quite wearisome.
Eventually, my name was called, I could go to immigration, exchange money and pay the first fees for being in a national park with stepping foot on that island.
I made my way to a gate where people were just waiting. And no one said anything, offered any explanations whatsoever.
I kept asking questions until I eventually found out that they were calling taxis (motorbikes with a little platform with 2 seats) and that we could take them to our ho(s)tels.
And another fee that had to be paid, and I don’t know what this was for to the present day.
This was where I started to feel properly unnerved by the lack of communication.
Everything on the island is walking distance - but with luggage, that’s a bit much still.
I arrived at my hostel, The Chic Lipe, and was quite happy with my choice. Clean and stylish, modern - very nice! And, of course, it has my beloved privacy curtains.
I explored the area a bit (so hot), went to beaches, took some photos and went to another beach for sunset. With more thoughtful smokers. Honestly, what is wrong with people??
The sunset was beautiful, though.
Unlike the trash piling up at the beach. I do have a gripe with humans…Les mer
Monkey Business
22. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
After two blissful days of doing nothing but sleeping in, editing pics, and writing the blog I had grossly neglected out of sheer lack of time over the past two weeks - I finally saw a bit of the island today. 😄
I took a boat tour to a few notable spots.
An eagle observation area, for one. You could see the eagles - Brahminy Kites - diving into the water right next to the boat. It was quite stunning, especially considering how impressively large they actually are up close.
We saw lots and lots of mangroves and were told about their role when the 2004 tsunami struck the region - devastating much of Indonesia, Sri Lanka, India, and Thailand.
Langkawi was largely spared, thanks to the natural capacity of mangroves to absorb and deflect rising water levels. There was, unfortunately, one casualty. Thanks to the mangroves, only one.
There were also quite a few monkeys living in the mangroves. Monkeys that could swim, as it turned out.
The arrangement was that the monkeys were accustomed to people on the boats bringing food - bananas, peanuts, and so on. All engineered to get them to interact with tourists. The guides even mentioned they were aware that some tourists don’t like monkeys or have had bad experiences with aggressive ones - those people were told to close their eyes and deal with it for the sake of the others.
Yeah. Not a fan of that. The monkeys didn’t attack anyone while I was on the boat, but they were certainly adamant about being fed. All it takes is one stolen item, one startled tourist screaming, or direct eye contact at the wrong moment to make things feel very unsafe very quickly. It’s not rocket science.
We also stopped at a fish farm - though frankly, staring at fish trapped in tight, algae-ridden, murky confines didn’t appeal to me, nor did the opportunity to choose your favourite sea creature and have it prepared for lunch. I don’t think anyone in my group went for it.
Another stop was a bat cave - with bats, naturally, and also monkeys. Plenty of signs warned you not to touch the monkeys and made it very clear that death or injury would be entirely your own problem. So, happy days.
The bat cave smelled ripe. And while it was genuinely cool to look up at them, we were told not to open our mouths while doing so. I’ll let you arrive at your own conclusions as to why.
I was rather happy to leave that cave behind.
Eventually we were dropped off at a beautiful beach for lunch. It was far too short a stop to properly enjoy it - but the beach was full of seashells. Put one and one together and you’ll know exactly what I was doing. It’s a shame they’re so heavy. But I’ll soldier through. 😄
My driver had informed me in the morning that he wouldn’t be there for the stated pick-up time because he had to pray. He arrived somewhat on time regardless - largely because the tour guide reminded him it was, in fact, his job.
All in all, a good day and I do believe Langkawi is worth visiting.Les mer
Langkawi
19. mai, Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 28 °C
The plane left - and I was in it!
I was actually able to complete the online check-in in the morning. Another hour sacrificed, I kid you not.
So, I was on a plane to Langkawi Island.
I stayed at Kawah Pada Garden Villa - my own unit, a little bungalow surrounded by nothing but fields and fields of green. From one side you could see the sunrise in the morning; from the other, the sunset in the evening.
I was generally too tired for the sunrise each day, though.Les mer
Exploring Penang (George Town)
18. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
First day in a while on which I didn’t have to get up early!
I even had time to catch up on some Outlander while munching away on the complimentary breakfast.
The lady behind the counter inquired after my sleep quality. Due to the bass practically slapping me left and right until I was dizzy and disoriented enough to sleep, I said there was no quality to the aforementioned sleep.
She replied with “But it’s a social hostel.” I countered with “But how is that a reason to rob people of their sleep?” Then she said “But it stopped early!” And then I said “It stopped after midnight.” And she insisted: “Yes, exactly. It stopped then.”
She was nice and understanding about it eventually, and it’s the hostel’s style, of course. But there won’t be a universe in which I’ll be fine with inconsideracy - especially when my sleep is sacrificed by a higher power that is a party hostel devoting their everything to, well, party. It just creams my corn.
Anyway. I strolled through the streets of Penang leisurely and discovered - well - a chocolate shop. And a very helpful shop assistant who excitedly shoved chocolate into my hands for tasting. I was forced to eat it. Would have been oh so rude not to.
I was particularly fond of the dark chocolate with jasmine. Because, get this - I like dark chocolate now. What has the world come to?
I enjoyed my little time off, exploring by myself. Good times.
Then I joined another free tour with Anna and Sally. The guide was enthusiastic and even procured a free tea from a nearby shop - served in bags, of all things - and two samosas from a Michelin-recognised street food stall.
There was also an unexpected element to the tour.
We went to a Taoist temple and shook sticks. Let me explain.
As far as I understand, this is something you do when you need guidance - when you have a question and need an answer. The practice is called Kau Cim, and the process goes like this:
You grab a bundle of incense sticks and ignite them until every single one is emitting smoke. Mine caught fire. Oops.
Then you place 3 sticks at a time into a large ash-filled censer - a temple urn - and let them smoke away. Clear case of peer pressure.
Then you enter the temple and pick up a cylindrical box filled with flat wooden sticks bearing classical Chinese characters. You hold the box away from you at a 45-degree angle while kneeling on a padded prayer bench - angled, surprisingly comfortable, vaguely sofa-like. The goal is to shake the box at that angle until one stick protrudes unmistakably above the rest. While shaking, you focus on a question - something that could do with some guidance. You take that stick and throw two small divination blocks - traditionally made from bamboo, shaped like halves of a bean - onto the floor in front of you. One side up, one side down means keep the stick. Any other combination means put it back and shake again.
In my case, the blocks favoured my stick of choice - my lucky stick - and I was permitted to proceed.
Our guide matched the characters on my stick to a booklet of all possible results. The booklet then directed us to scan a QR code - who knew Taoists were so modern? - which produced a PDF: something between a horoscope and a direct answer to your question. And on top of that, there was a small illustrated house symbol on the stick that had to be matched to a corresponding panel on a wall of similar house symbols, each with additional inscriptions providing a more specific reading.
Written out like that, I appreciate it sounds like an elaborate sequence of pomp and circumstantial hokum. Who came up with all the extra steps? It’s like an escape room designed by life coaches charging by the hour. Actually - that might be a lucrative market niche.
And yet. Puzzling as the process was - and I didn’t really think of a question and mostly stared at the guide in confusion at each new step - it was kinda fun and genuinely engaging. Oh dear. That’s how they get you.
In the evening I was racing to the shower and was watched from the ceiling by not one (like yesterday) but two pervy geckos.
I spontaneously joined the hostel quiz night - our team, Sally, Anna, Kate (a Russian addition) and I, were crowned second place.
Once the quiz finished and the bass-inflated thumping commenced, I made myself scarce.
Oh - almost forgot to mention a very fun and engaging activity I also partook in today. I spent 4 hours on the phone with 3 different airline customer services regarding my booking for the following day. Online check-in was simply not possible, and for whatever reason, my date of birth had been set to 31.12.9999.
Successfully locating the customer support line each time should have earned me a bachelor’s degree. Navigating a robot that was roughly as helpful as the human staff I eventually reached - one of whom ghosted me mid-conversation, which was rude - while remaining completely calm and patient. Oh, hang on. I really didn’t. Well, oops again.
I’m happy to say that - ha. You thought I was going to say the problem was solved, didn’t you? Nah. It wasn’t. So. I might fly somewhere tomorrow. Or I might not. I’ll find out live at the airport. Good times! 😄Les mer
Hiking in the Highlands and Moving On
17. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
I don’t like getting up early. Past 5am this morning…
Our group from yesterday was picked up by a driver and taken to the tea plantation viewing point from the previous day - only this time, to watch the sunrise.
The sun made a late appearance - a few clouds were in the way - but it was a beautiful sight nonetheless.
After the sunrise, we grabbed a few snacks and off we went on a hike. Trails 10 and 6 in Tanah Rata - about 5 km combined, moderately to quite difficult in places, with gradients hitting around 30-40% on the steeper sections.
Now, I enjoy hiking. I love nature. And I particularly loved the idea of exhaust-fume and engine-free nature.
But I didn’t really have a great time of it.
Between my heavy backpack (camera), five hours of sleep, a bit of dehydration, and those steep inclines - my heart rate skyrocketed. I would have had an easier time of it if my group (Sally, Anna and another German guy) hadn’t practically run through the track. I tried my best but couldn’t keep up. I went at a pace acceptable for me; the others went ahead a little. At first, they waited for me. Once. They asked if I was ok - I was not, as I mentioned. I felt like blacking out for quite some time there.
That was met with an “ah,” and on they went. I again couldn’t quite keep up. They were out of sight after a few seconds. And they stayed out of sight.
The trail was very muddy, steep - sometimes merely ropes were provided to guide you up and down - and it was enthusiastically trip-encouraging.
Struggling to keep my wits about me while feeling woozy, I made my way up step by step.
Until I reached a crossroads. Where on earth were the others?
No clue. I went left. Then another left at yet another crossroads. My reception was sketchy; I informed the others of my situation and hoped the message would go through.
I heard back a little later - they had taken a different path at the crossroads but were on their way down.
I slowed my pace to wait for them and took a right at yet another crossroads. A concrete downhill path with walls in between that I had to jump over. I wish I could say the same for my kneecap, which was on a collision course with rotting concrete.
From a distance and by chance, I spotted Anna and called out. I had to go back up since I was on the wrong path - an absolute pain with those walls to jump over again.
The others insisted that my path would maybe, perhaps, probably, surely also lead to the right place, and I should just go ahead and take it.
I made it clear that we ought to stay together - that I’d very much not like to be alone in the wilderness when I’m not feeling well. “Ahs” and “I’m sure you would have been fine” followed.
While the rest of the hike was mostly fine - downhill and straight paths for the most part - I confess myself genuinely disappointed by the nonchalant lack of consideration and understanding. This didn‘t sit easy with me then and still doesn‘t. Especially considering I told them about my experience with the sunstroke in Auckland and how nobody helped me there either until late at night - they were all aghast and said, oh, we definitely would have helped. Well, actions speak louder than words, don‘t they?
After the hike, we went back to our respective hostels for a brief reprieve and a freshen-up, before gathering at the bus terminal to catch our booked bus from Tanah Rata to Georgetown.
A 5.5-hour ride - more winding roads - that brought us from tolerable temperatures and lower humidity to the opposite.
Georgetown is located on Penang Island, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its colonial architecture, street art, and extraordinary food scene. Split from the mainland by the Penang Strait, it looked rather welcoming at first glance from the bus window.
We checked into our hostel. It’s ok. Better than the last one, but.
It’s called a “social” hostel. Now, I apologise for not having received the memo, but since when are “social” and “incredibly poor sleep” considered synonymous?
The hostel plays extremely loud music until midnight, the bass coursing through your entire body - and even though you’re not in the same room, it’s still very much an affront to my ears.
Let’s end on a positive note: we saw a scorpion during the hike today. It was dead. But kinda cool. 😄Les mer
Touring the Cameron Highlands Part 2
16. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
After that ordeal and a toilet experience I’d rather not elaborate on, we drove on to many more stops - among them a strawberry farm, a mushroom farm, a temple (you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all…), a bee farm, a cactus and flower shop, a fruit and vegetable market (I tried white corn - awesome! So sweet, and it can be eaten raw!), and another BOH tea plantation and factory.
BOH, incidentally, stands for “Best Of Highlands” - founded in 1929 by Scottish entrepreneur John Archibald Russell on the Boh Estate. Still one of Malaysia’s most iconic tea brands, and still Scottish-owned in its origins.
The tour was very comprehensive all in all, but lots of stops were rather unnecessary.
A pleasant surprise was the bee farm - lots of honey to buy in little sticks, lots of flavours: passionfruit, strawberry, propolis, durian, mint, and whatever else I’ve since forgotten. 😄
At the end of the day I was rather exhausted. We all went out for dinner and I headed back to the hostel - a faint whiff of citronella still in the air.
I was getting ready for bed when I spotted one of the girls from the previous night and was promptly invited to a round of cards. New game for me - Cambio. It was quite fun! Which also meant I got to bed past midnight instead of at 10pm as planned. 😄”Les mer
Touring the Cameron Highlands, Part 1
16. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Today, Anna, Sally and I joined a 9-hour tour through the Cameron Highlands.
9 people plus our driver in a Land Rover - not much space, unfortunately.
Our first stop was the a tea plantation. Great views, for sure.
But then the photo session of 7 Instagram-obsessed ladies commenced. Selfie here, another over there, several “Can you take a picture of me here?”, a few poses later “Maybe another one over there?” “Maybe back there with that in the background?”
The amount of time we lost taking countless photos for other people’s Instagram accounts was astronomical.
To each their own, of course. But it baffles me - because people only go to places to post them on Instagram without actually experiencing their surroundings.
Now, you’re probably thinking: “But isn’t that exactly what you do?”
Well. I beg to differ. Of course I do… 😄
I’m not a fan of selfies - at least not with the frequency and lack of direction I’ve seen other people apply to them. Judgy, judgy, I know.
I love nature, peace and quiet, and good photography. Not to show off, but because I take genuine pleasure in the activity. Taking photos while navigating the treacherous waters that are other people - without them in the shot even though they’re everywhere like vultures with their selfies - is a hard-won skill.
Let’s take a look at the next stop: Mossy Forest.
If you might recall, I LOVE moss. It’s great. So soft and pretty.
What actually happened: we were dropped off to hike for about 10 minutes up to the hilltop where the boardwalk was.
The road up was ugly concrete. In some places trash was lying about. One of the reasons forests are relaxing is the lovely smell. Well, what I smelled was exhaust fumes. Car after car after car made their way up the mountain - noisy blighters, and stinky. The black clouds they left behind made the little hike truly unpleasant.
It’s impressive, really - people come into nature for pleasant smells, sounds, tranquility, beautiful sights - and then ruin all of that by their mere presence. Mass tourism at its finest.
The boardwalk itself was more of the same. So crowded it was stop-and-go all the way, especially around the tower with the viewing platform. On the tower at any given moment: 35 people.
On the big red sign in plain sight at the entrance: “No more than 8 people at a time.“ And: “Waiting in line on tower is prohibited.“ I definitely laughed out loud upon reading that. 😄Les mer
Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands
15. mai, Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 21 °C
In the morning, Anna and I took the bus to Tanah Rata - the Cameron Highlands. Named after British surveyor William Cameron who mapped the area in 1885, the Highlands sit at around 1,500 metres above sea level - which explains cooler temperatures and the lush, green landscape. The British developed it as a colonial hill station to escape the lowland heat, and today it’s famous for its tea plantations (BOH Tea being the most well-known), strawberry farms, and misty mountain atmosphere.
From the previous day, we knew a bit about the bus terminal - but again it wasn’t as easy to find our gate as we would have liked.
We asked the lady at the gate about our bus and she said: “Not here. SIT DOWN.” Well, that put us in our place.
Since it was another 10 minutes until scheduled departure, I quickly hopped to the loo. Max. 4 minutes. When I got back, apparently our names had been called out, as Anna informed me. 😁
We moved to the door to go outside. We got yelled at incoherently by the oh-so-kind lady. It turned out she was gesturing towards the scanning machines - we ought to scan our boarding passes. The scanning machines with gates that open once the scan is successful were nowhere near the actual door, and were incidentally rather superfluous, since there’s no way to reach the gate unless you’ve already scanned your boarding pass upstairs.
Once outside, there were several buses and we had no idea which one to take. We asked a bus driver who barely looked at us, refused to say anything, and just gestured vaguely towards a bus. Not gonna lie - being addressed that way, or rather not addressed at all, got me worked up.
At least it turned out to be the correct bus.
The first 4 hours of the ride were fine, but the last hour, snaking through the curved Highland roads - ah, I think you know where I’m going with this. I was rather green in the face.
From what I could glimpse from the bus, the Highlands are lush and green and a wonderful sight - so much nature! I had hoped for a view at my hostel. Or for a clean hostel…
Well, the view is nonexistent. Tanah Rata is a rather unsightly town whose apparent goal was to have as little green around as possible. Not much care went into the design of the buildings - maybe the odd one - but countless others are more conspicuous for all the wrong reasons.
The rain that had been falling during the bus ride and gave the Highlands a lovely, mysterious atmosphere was now rather bothersome in town. It is actually cold here, incidentally! I wished I had an extra sweater.
After dinner, Anna, Sally (who had taken an earlier bus) and I took a Grab to the night market, 10 minutes away. It was actually nice - in spite of all the rain.
The biggest seller here in the Highlands is definitely strawberries. Red ones and white ones. Almost every food stall sells them. Tea and street food were popular, too.
I arrived back at the hostel at around 9pm, ready to head to bed and maybe work on the blog.
Suddenly, a girl from my dorm went outside and sprayed something ferociously. She came back inside immediately, bringing an intense smell of citronella with her. And I mean intense. The citronella - a plant-based mosquito repellent derived from lemongrass - had seemingly decided to replace nitrogen as the primary component of the air. Oxygen, appeared to have been collateral damage. Said girl then thought it necessary to continue spraying like a maniac in the en suite bathroom and in her bunk bed, which was merely covered by a curtain. The air was entirely unbreathable. To say I was angry was an understatement.
I cursed under my breath - loud enough to be heard - while coughing my lungs out.
Luckily, we had a balcony, onto which I stormed. The air was marginally more breathable there. I was joined by two other girls from the dorm who had also woken up, since none of us had yet evolved to live off citronella.
The balcony turned out to be yet another excellent venue for sleep-hindrance.
People were partying in the streets below - testosterone-fuelled bellowing and chanting. It was 1am when things slowly quieted down. The other two girls and I kept chatting - with occasional glances at our watches, followed by the “I’m so tired” lament.
Sometime thereafter, the smell - while still very much present - had dissipated enough to allow for some shut-eye.”
The pics for today are scarce and nothing special. Merely an impression of the night market.Les mer
Malacca (Melaka) City
14. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
I hadn’t planned on visiting Malacca (Melaka in Malay), but Anna was headed there, and Sally and I decided to join in.
From Kuala Lumpur, it was a 2-hour trip to reach Melaka - a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008, recognised for its layered colonial history as one of Southeast Asia’s great trading ports.
The Portuguese arrived in 1511 and built the A Famosa fort, of which only the Porta de Santiago gate still stands. The Dutch followed in the 17th century, leaving behind the striking red Stadthuys and Christ Church. The British came after that.
The sights had the advantage of being rather central and easy to reach on foot. That is, after we had taken a Grab into the town centre. 15 minutes of Modern Talking blasted through the car speakers - didn’t know they were a thing in Malaysia - I was rather happy to leave the car!
We went to a church and a temple - not exactly something I’m interested in. I prefer something scenic and natural that tickles my lens - camera, not eye!
There was a church on a hilltop, however - St. Paul’s Church, a 16th-century Portuguese structure sitting just above the old A Famosa gate - that was more of a ruin than an actively used building.
A singer with a guitar had made use of the building’s structure, which facilitates a lovely natural hall. He surprised me with his voice - a genuinely good singer with a unique rasp, great timbre, and a certain grain to his tone that the space only amplified. The added acoustics made for a genuinely nice few moments up on that HOT hill in the unforgiving midday sun.
We walked back to the popular Jonker Street where we tried a dessert that came highly recommended and was a novelty for all of us: Cendol. Shaved ice with molasses, red beans and glibbery green pandan jelly made from rice flour.
It was a surprise just how yummy this dessert was!
After exploring Melaka, we headed back to Kuala Lumpur. While it had been recommended to enjoy the Venice of the East at night as well, I was absolutely content having only spent 6 hours there.
We arrived back in KL past 8pm and had to take a Grab back to the hostel. Finding your way to Grab-approved pickup locations is a bit of a science in Malaysia. Everywhere else I’ve been so far, there were signs making it unmistakably clear where to go. That’s a little annoying, especially with luggage involved.
We had a late dinner at Da Bao - Bao Bun Burgers - mine with mutton and red cabbage. I also finally tried Sarsaparilla - I’d seen it in Australia quite a lot but never got around to it. Verdict: tastes like cough medicine, which I think I actually found kinda yummy - only really sweet, and therefore probably not a frequent contender for my refreshment.Les mer
Batu Caves and a Bar-Crawl
13. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
From the base, the view was spectacular. The massive golden statue of Lord Murugan and the dramatic cave opening in the limestone cliff left me genuinely awestruck - mouth open, which also helped with breathing.
We navigated through what felt like entire nations of pigeons taking off erratically in all directions on a whim. Near-collisions were frequent.
Before climbing the 272 steps, two women approached me, gesturing enthusiastically. It quickly became clear: they didn’t want me to take a photo of them - they wanted a photo with me. First the mother, then the daughter swapped in. Much gratitude all around.
(This is actually quite common in tourist-heavy areas across Southeast and South Asia - I‘m not entirely sure why, but I‘m gonna guess it‘s a mix of curiosity and a certain enthusiasm for a photo with someone who looks visibly out of place…)
At the base of the stairs, I was promptly told off by a woman for showing my knees. Fair enough — I had prepared. Instead of renting a sarong, I produced my 100% cotton beach towel from my backpack and wrapped it around myself. Approved.
The ascent was intense. High humidity, heavy backpack, towel insulation - and my body activated every available sweat gland in protest. They all obliged.
Halfway up, the two women found me again - this time wanting photos with Anna as well. Same procedure. Then another round with me. Because… sure. Why not.
Inside the cave - I have to say - I was underwhelmed. Floodlights everywhere, and various brightly coloured structures that seemed placed without much regard for the natural environment. Likely temples and shops, but the overall effect felt somewhat chaotic and, frankly, tacky. A pity, given the natural beauty of the cave itself. The goal was clearly tourism at all costs - which, paradoxically, made it rather unattractive.
At one point, a staff member suddenly launched small rocket-like firecrackers that shot upward and exploded against the cave ceiling with a loud, echoing bang. We hypothesised it might be to deter birds - though given the sheer volume of pigeons, that strategy seemed limited in its effectiveness.
On the way down, we encountered monkeys - and, of course, people feeding them. From experience in Bali, I know that’s a terrible idea. They may look adorable from a distance, but they become aggressive quickly and lose all inhibition around humans once regularly fed and then they take whatever they want. What they give in return: rabies.
Back in the city, there wasn’t much time to rest.
In the evening, I joined my first - and ideally last - bar crawl. Four bars in total.
The first was my favourite: free spaghetti and relative quiet. Unfortunately, the drinks took ages to arrive - and then we had to down them within five minutes to move on.
The second bar: loud music. Enjoyment declining.
The third: live music. Extremely loud. I genuinely do not understand the appeal of music so loud that conversation becomes a shouting match - a particular delight with auditory processing difficulties. Also, the venue was tiny. Why the singer needed a microphone remains a mystery.
The final stop was back at our hostel. Convenient. I was especially fond of the “No Smoking” sign - largely ignored by staff, who smoked freely in an unventilated room. Naturally, there was also loud music.
I stayed longer than intended (I detest cigarette smoke)- the conversation within our little group was good, even if it required strained yelling throughout.
I also spoke to a young Brit who took it upon himself to mansplain travelling in Australia to me, fully aware of m having spent more time there and having been to more places. But he talked in superlatives. Everything he experienced was the best…
He was also particularly proud of his alcohol tolerance - unlike, in his telling, any Australian he had ever encountered. The sheer intensity with which he described his drinking achievements was something. I noted how much importance he seemed to place on that. He confirmed, proudly, and continued.
I left and he found new prey, happily relaying his stories on repeat.
Eventually, I said goodbye to the Dutchies (Japan-bound), retreated to bed, and apologised to my ears for the noise - and to my nose for the 1-pentanethiol assault.Les mer
Tour Through Kuala Lumpur
13. mai, Malaysia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
Early start for my roomie and me. Anna had added me to the free city tour she’d discovered. So, after a hurried breakfast, we scurried through the streets of KL.
At this point, it feels apropos to mention that my feet are still undergoing maintenance work. Like the common sight of roadworks with no actual workers present to bring about the proclaimed change, my feet are similarly devoid of progress. In short: every step hurts.
The free tour, as it turned out, had a lot to offer. Hakim, our guide - a self-proclaimed nerd - was knowledgeable and experienced, having guided not only in KL but also in Scotland and elsewhere (if only I could remember). He also claimed to be multilingual - though most of the evidence suggested he could at least count to 13 in any language we threw at him. To be fair, he did know a few phrases here and there.
The tour lasted about three hours and wasn’t just walking and listening. We also tasted three fruits: mangosteen, rambutan, and another lychee-related fruit - small, round, green, and quite delicious: longan.
(I, of course, am already a fully initiated mangosteen enthusiast. In Singapore, I had 31 in less than 24 hours.)
We were also given a bottle of water, a free drink - I chose Bandung, a sweet, floral rose syrup drink mixed with evaporated milk, popular throughout Malaysia and Singapore; milky, fragrant, and surprisingly refreshing - and a small sample of a local dish. It appeared to be meat in a curry-like sauce served alongside what looked like soft, net-like crêpe rolls: roti jala.
Finally, we even got a free metro ride to the city centre.
From what I gathered, Hakim may have paid for parts of this himself and/or had arrangements with local vendors. Either way, for a free tour, it far exceeded expectations.
At the end of the tour, we wandered through the area of the Petronas Towers - the tallest twin towers in the world at 452 metres, completed in 1998 and holding the title of world’s tallest buildings until 2004. We had already admired them the night before from the Helipad, glowing beautifully in all their architectural flair.
Anna and I then grabbed a Grab - no, I’m not giving myself credit for a weak figura etymologica - and headed to the Batu Caves.Les mer
Arriving in Kuala Lumpur
12. mai, Malaysia ⋅ 🌧 30 °C
In the late afternoon, I arrived in Kuala Lumpur. It was oddly complicated to order a Grab - like Uber, but operating mainly in Southeast Asia.
Even though I had reduced my luggage quite a bit, I’m still travelling with about 30 kg split over two bags. Carrying them to unknown destinations on foot in 33°C, high-humidity weather - meh. Rather uncomfortable.
But finally, in the early evening, I arrived at the hostel.
Now, the style of the hostel is purposefully rustic/run-down meets modern. Ish. I’m not entirely sure what to make of it. It does have its charm, kind of. But at times it borders on “please, someone just paint the walls - they’re begging for it.”
My room - a 2-bed dorm - comes with no windows, so it’s perpetually dark once the lights are off. When you wake up in the morning, it feels like an incredibly early start, even when it’s already 11 am. (Especially confusing for my jet-lagged Spanish roomie.)
Once I had settled into my bunk, my aforementioned Spanish roommate, Anna, came back from a quick exploration. I decided to join her to a place called “Helipad,” a rooftop bar and viewing platform offering stunning views over Kuala Lumpur.
We arrived just at sunset, along with a Dutch couple who joined us, and enjoyed a few drinks as the city slowly darkened.
Before we were allowed to go up, we had to dispose of all bottles (fairly obvious why) and all umbrellas. It didn’t take long to realise why - holding an umbrella 36 floors up on a helipad with no safety railings is, in fact, not a great idea. You might be blown away, Marry-Poppins-style, you know.
We got there at just the right time and watched the city come alive with lights in full 360°.
After all the superlatives in Singapore, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from Malaysia - especially considering Singapore used to be part of it. But Kuala Lumpur does not disappoint. While Singapore is polished and bougie throughout, Kuala Lumpur offers a similar kind of grandeur, yet reveals a much more modest, everyday side beyond the city centre.
At night, though, the city centre is something else entirely. The buildings light up in colourful, architecturally playful ways.
Chinatown, where we went after the Helipad, is a vibrant hub with street food catering to your every desire - occasionally with a side of food poisoning.
So far, I’ve been spared.Les mer
Moving On
12. mai, Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C
I only had two full days in Singapore, and today was the day to set sail - on a bus called Aeroline - to Kuala Lumpur.
The bus was leaving at 11 am, with check-in at the HarbourFront Centre in Singapore.
After a hearty breakfast of 17 mangosteens, I was driven there by a Grab driver from Vietnam, and we actually had a pleasant conversation. It was the first time anyone here genuinely tried to chat - I appreciated it.
Once I arrived at the Centre, I tried to find the Aeroline check-in to confirm my presence.
But… said centre was nowhere to be found. I asked five people for help. Three of them offered a vague “Ah, no, maybe not here but walk.” One came close - suggesting something like a shortcut. Only one person could actually tell me the Aeroline centre was on the second floor. What a relief - it was getting close to departure time!
Luckily, it all worked out and I boarded the bus.
What a luxurious bus it is! Reclining seat, leg rest, complimentary water, food, headphones, and a screen. This must be what economy plus feels like.
So, now that I’ve left Singapore - here is your Singapore Fact Special. Lean back and enjoy.
The name Singapore comes from the Sanskrit-rooted Malay words singa (lion) and pura (city). It means “Lion City”. Duh, eh?
The four official languages are Malay, Tamil, English, and Mandarin.
Singapore was briefly part of Malaysia from 1963 to 1965, before being expelled - largely due to deep political and racial tensions between Singapore’s ruling party and the Malaysian federal government. Before 1963, Singapore had been a British crown colony. It became the only country in modern history to gain independence entirely against its will. Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew famously wept on television when he announced it.
Singapore has a population of around 6 million people, made up of Chinese, Malay, Indian, and other communities. Major religions include Buddhism, Christianity, Islam, Taoism, and Hinduism - all coexisting in a remarkably small space.
As one humorous card I found put it: Singapore is a fine city. Literally. There are fines for littering, jaywalking, eating or drinking on the MRT (public transport), not flushing a public toilet, and feeding pigeons. You can even be fined for chewing gum - it cannot be bought or sold anywhere in the country. Private individuals may carry a small personal supply in their own packets, but don’t push it.
Oh, and while on the flight to Singapore, passengers were reminded that carrying illegal drugs could result in the death penalty. That certainly set the tone. I also spotted a poster declaring 12 strokes of the cane for involvement in scam muling.
What else is there… Ah, Tiger Balm! It’s a Singaporean invention. It was developed in the early 20th century by brothers Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, building on a formula by their father, a Chinese herbalist.Les mer
A Tree Tunnel and a Singapore Sling
11. mai, Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
Today was a little calmer. I prioritised culinary experiences.
Also, my feet were in a lot of pain. Slipping on my shoes felt like my feet were being forced into lotus feet at high speed (look that up at your own risk if you don’t know what they are).
I went to a matcha bar where I had a… matcha. Correct, well done.
I also had Spicy Rosé Ube Udon for breakfast and finally had a truly excellent food experience here. Those shrimp were cooked and seasoned to perfection. So good!
I briefly checked out the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple - which, as it turns out, is named after what is believed to be an actual tooth relic of the Buddha housed somewhere in the upper levels - and then waddled/limped my way to Fort Canning Park, where I was keen to see a particular tree tunnel.
The park was lovely. I wish I had spent more time there. But for one, there was a storm brewing, so I made haste. Also, my feet… and lastly, it was incredibly hot and humid. I was very much melting.
Having arrived at the grove - well. Let’s just say the experience was… crowded. Lots of people taking photos, stopping frequently, blocking views. You get the idea. I didn’t linger long.
I then made my way to the renowned Long Bar at Raffles Hotel - the birthplace of the Singapore Sling, first created there around 1915 by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon.
I went on the recommendation of my former boss from the food truck.
The place looked great - peanut shells all over the floor, which, as it turns out, is entirely intentional and part of the atmosphere. There was a 30+ minute wait, which I didn’t mind at all. I was just happy to sit.
Once inside, I had the Singapore Sling: a mix of gin, cherry liqueur, pineapple juice, lime, and a few other bits and pieces. I’m not usually big on cherry, but the drink was undeniably good. Also undeniably expensive.
Slightly buzzed (pro tip: do not drink that like you’re downing water while mildly dehydrated), I took the bus back towards the hostel area, had some Indian food for dinner, wandered through the streets, and rounded things off with some of the tea I bought yesterday.
Spoiler alert: it was delicious.Les mer



























































































































































































































































































































































































































