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Beagle to Eagle
  • Malcolm Albany
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  • Malcolm Albany
  • Flight of the phoenix

Beagle to Eagle

And so begins the Festival of 50....
We kick off with a tour of Ecuador, a Galapagos cruise "conference" and finally 5 nights slumming it in the newly reopened Waldorf Astoria. Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 22, 2025
    Beagle to Eagle
    Curbside a little longer than expected. One of us was prepared. Heated booths!!

    Princes to paupers

    October 23 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    We've just received 26 hours of the royal treatment from SQ Business class. We are about to transit to JFK for a JetBlue economy flight to Ecuador. That's like going from the MA noble stand to The Hill. Please send us your thoughts and prayers.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Football and ceverza. Ola, Ecuador!

    South American Boyfriend

    October 24 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We finally arrived in South America. This is the second time in 12 months after having never been there before! Bel's South American workmates are convinced that she has found a South American boyfriend. We finally slept in a hotel after 50 hours door to door....no Latin lotharios hiding under the bed.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Rooftop cocktails from Casa Gangotena: our boutique hotel for 2 nights
    Quito is watched over by "the dancing Madonna". This is her view of Ecuador's capital2Our walking tour took us to several of the many churches. They'd be stoked at the gold price atm.I can't hear the word cloister without thinking of board games. Nice place to be a nun.The flag of Ecuador with the parliament building attachedWe decided to try a chocolate experience in the afternoon which was just across our square.Michael, noticing our polite but poor attempts at paying attention, decided to focus on feeding us.We were asked to guess the contents of each jar based on blinded samples.We didn't take it too seriouslyOr did we?!The hotel has flowers everywhere and many beautiful spots to relax before dinnerThe view from our hotel room doesn't get old2A daring tasting menu! Some misses, but more hits. Crab ball.Dessert was actually the best course. This is basil, cacao, lemongrass and rice. Not too sweet.

    Yapa!

    October 24 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Yapa is my new favourite Spanish word. That's not saying a lot because my Spanish vocabulary is limited to Dora the Explorer phrases. Can you say Yapa?
    So yapa kinda means bonus freebie. If you buy a bag of oranges and they chuck in an extra orange then that's your yapa.
    We went to a chocolate experience shop... you see where this is going, right?    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    1Saturday markets run by the ultra friendly and soft-spoken locals. There were some super cute items.
    2And some not so cute itemsThere's no hard sell here. Just a gentle stroll amongst the textiles and foodstuffsBuying the dried corn snacks from this old lady was better than eating them. They were too dry.The snacks were better at Cayambe on the way. The locals agreed.This is what they were lining up for: biscochos. These guys make 3000/dayThey crank the heat up in the two eucalyptus fueled ovensThen whack them in to turn goldenSo that we could dunk & enjoy. They taste like a scone-shortbread hybridSheep cheese adds a bit of sweet saltinessOff to see a couple of the artisans at workA weaving workshop that has been operational for at least five generationsThere is no doubt as to who is the bossHer dad Miguel was an inventor. Many of their looms etc use unique equipment and methods.All natural colourings. I like the indigo.Lunch was at a pretty hacienda. The food was just ok.This variety of corn is very starchy and came with spuds and cheese. Glug! Gotta try things tho.Next to find the source of those pan pipesAli Lima makes and plays all the indigenous instruments here.Ali found a better use of a donkey jawbone than beating up 1000 Philistines

    Markets and Music

    October 25 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Otavalo is a 2 hour drive north of Quito across the equator. The main town is essentially flat, fertile farmland nestled between the surrounding peaks of the Andes. There's a zen vibe about the place which is mostly occupied by Indigenous folk who are mostly farmers or artisans. You can almost hear pan pipes in the wind wherever you stroll along the cobbled narrow streets and adobe buildings. Sometimes you actually can hear pan pipes, and chickens and a motor bike starting and a mother yelling at some kids.

    It isn't always this zen. There was some serious trouble leading up to our visit over an oil price dispute. The farmers blocked all the roads in the area with dirt and logs shutting down all transport and tourism. The president sent the military and things only opened up 2 days ago. Most of the places we visited were super happy to see us because we were the first tourists that they'd seen in a month. Lucky timing! Not so lucky for the 2 farmers that were shot and 1 old lady who got in the way of a smoke grenade 😯    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    The 3.5 hour drive from Quito took us from city to farmland to ...
    2... to this!Finally shred the last of the jet lag just in timeStrangler Fig walk. A gentle warm up and a chance to meet Estuardo our Mashpi guide.Mot mot. A kingfisher with baubles on its tail to attract girly Mot Mots.CSI EcuadorThere are 36 varieties of frogs in Mashpi, but only one with yellow feet: the yellow footed frog!Apparently this fella isn't poisonous, but he can fit a frog in his jaws without even trying4The rare olinguito! Only discovered in 2013

    Mashpi

    October 26 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Mashpi means friends of water. It is a special resort in the vein of Tasmania's Saffire or Namibia's &Beyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge. It is an ultramodern, luxury ecolodge in Ecuador's cloud forests. The nature activities and food are all included and all fancy. We are here for 3 nights so expectations are high.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    I need a jacket with leather patches on the elbows
    The motmot's paddle-like tail wags as a signal to let predators know they've been spotted.We awoke to this water detox station. I thought I'd left the northern beaches way behind!We considered it until we got to the don't eat for 10m bit. No chance.Ready for another day of happy hikingEstuado stayed with us today to show us what the forest had to offerThere were lots of pretty flowers but I like the bad boys2Estuado chickened out and used his laser pointer for this oneOur hike took us to this beautiful water fall2I don't think Norsca are going to offer me a contractFrom here we followed the riverIt's a good thing we wore gum boots!This was how they prepared them for us. Reminds me of my preschool face washer hook.And this is where they spray them clean while we pirouette.Back to the river..Until we finally made it to the "dragonfly"This took us over the trees, through the clouds and across vast valleys1Plants develop so many unique ways to access light and water. You can only see it from above.You can observe the moisture rising from the forest into the clouds. Literally, the forest breathingAfter lunch we went to the Hummingbird centre which was full of activityThis hummingbird decided to puff itself upThe Flame-faced tanagerSpotto! The yellow rumped caciqueApple save! The green toucanGetting ready for this evening's night walk: the search for the glass frog.Success!G'day little fella!

    Dragonfly

    October 27 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Today I discovered the library and binocular room. Don't worry I'm not going to turn into Bill Lawry, but it is amazing to have all these resources to find out about the things that we bump into on our excursions. We are feeling motivated to wake up for the 0630 rooftop yoga and bird watching session tomorrow.
    As for the excursions, today was stunning. When they said yesterday was just a warm up they weren't kidding.    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    No yoga on the rooftop today but I finally learnt how to use binoculars properly
    The life centre. Home to a viewing area and a butterfly research buildingThis was the best excursion to time with the rainWe could spot birds on the other side of the valley with this babyMashpi rodents. They eat a lot!1Feeling smug with the size of my scopeWoody1Owl eye moth. The wing tip looks like a snake for double camouflage1And on Sunday he ate a nice green leaf..and felt much better.The skybike: our pedal powered vehicle that would carry us into the mist and across the abyssWaiting for a speeder bike to take potshots at an upstart EwokCut! Waiting for a velocoraptor to spring out from behind a fernInto the unknown!Blending in with nature1We were faster when I did the pedalingIt felt much safer back in the forest. The drop was over 100m in placesBack on land and still hanging on tightWhat me worry? Top of the observation deck. We observed a lot of cloudsI had the whole hot tub room to myself1Until a waitress jump scared me with a complimentary drink out of nowhere

    Skyfall

    October 27 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    I forced myself to get up for early morning rooftop yoga/bird watching. Fortunately it was raining so it turned into early morning coffee and animal watching from undercover. I taught Dalton what a piccolo is and he taught me what a Tayra looks like. (It looked like a big, hairy weasel.
    After breakfast we visited the life centre. The rain mostly stopped by the afternoon so our "skybike" adventure wasn't impacted. If anything the gloomy clouds enhanced the whole experience. The serenity combined with fear left our sympathetic nervous systems completely perplexed. I think this is how sick sinus syndrome begins.
    Update: The night finished with a couples massage and exfoliation. No photos but they used a mix of honey, orange juice and coarse sugar! We'd better double up on the bug spray tomorrow. We've showered twice but still feel like human lollypops.    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Quenca from Hotel Itza. Full of charm and safe to explore at night.
    The new Hyundai was spotless when we left MashpiLunch bags for the trip. Classy.Quito's Mariscal Sucre Airport full of surprises. A luggage reorganizing bench complete with scales.And a huge PP airside lounge in the domestic terminal complete with soft serve icecreamWe drove straight to the hotel after a long transit dayWhiskey loungeClassical features throughout. All wrought iron, wood and chandeliers.A nightcap from the rooftop bar whet our appetites to explore in the morning.

    Cuenca Moon Hits Your Eye

    October 29 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We enjoyed our first sleep in and lazy breakfast before the long drive back to Quito. The roads were clear and we made excellent time so we arrived at the airport several hours before our evening flight to Cuenca. We arrived in the city at night to find a more traditional, softly lit Ecuadorian city full of old world charm.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Old Datsuns and adobe buildings. Fresh food and friendly people. Genuine Ecuador.
    Many ways to skin a pig. Here they cook the crackling on a raw pig then cook the pork later.Our first stop was tea in a local corner store owner's homeThe tea was made from the gardenEvery day is a different brewNot bad. I'd still prefer a Twinings but not bad.We stumbled across the local women's guinea pig trading cartel. They have their own WhatsApp group.I said "Can you tell us if it's a boy or a girl" not "show us!"Next: Homero. He's built guitars all his life but can't play at all!Old tools in old handsThe decorations are wooden inlay. All died, hand carved into tiny pieces, then stacked tightly.Homero's guard dogLocal mixed indigenous women weaving baskets or hatsPig method 2: Roast the whole thing in an adobe oven.Lots of food options at the marketAnd drink options too. This lady specializes in pick-me-upsStout beer, banana, duck egg and molasses. It was actually good but loosened my purse springsThis family has specialized in filigree jewellery for generations.Silver being thinned and toughened. Luckily they price it on the weight of silver not hours involvedWe bought one filigree of the town emblem hanging here and lots more.Across the river to an orchid biological centreI couldn't stop Bel taking flower photosThe only way to halt her enthusiasm was to put her in themMaria the 97 yr old matriarch of the ikat style weaving business. More loose strings!You can live on them...but..

    Shopping Under the Influence

    October 30 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Cuenca was the surprise package of the trip so far. I thought it would be the weakest link based on the descriptions before we left.. see the countryside and some arty places at a place that completes the circle back to Guayaquil ho hum. Sorry Cuenca I completely underestimated you. As an added bonus Sylvia has been our best guide in Ecuador by a country mile.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Plotting the route
    A 5km hike at 4000km. Challenging but fun. Vamos!1The local herbal alternative to acetazolamide. I took both.Plenty of stops to check out the local fauna & flora. The adaptation to survive at alt is amazingMany flowers ditched their stems so that they wouldn't get snapped by the windPretty Mountain flowersHalf way and still smilingDense, dark, gnarly, moss-covered forest sections were a stark change from the open rocky terrainIt is Halloween after allAdding Sylvia to the selfiesSwinging around the bends on the paperbarks was super fun1I don't own a dehydratorFat happy beesFat happy fishermanThis catch wouldn't be legal at home but here the trout are seen as pestsGreat spot to grab a breatherBut not for long4000m elevation. 4.72km 458 calories utilized.458 calories reacquired. Chocolate cake plus Ecuadorian bitter sweet hot chocolate was our reward.Goodbye AndesHello Galapagos.

    Working the Machine

    October 31 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    We'd both been on a decent healthy living stint leading into this trip. A week in and we were both feeling the effects of input being greater than output despite our outdoor excursions. Today was a chance to rev the engine a bit in a stunning setting of the only glacial subtropical mountainside in the world. Add tricky terrain, a young guide and 4000m elevation and we finally created a decent enough oxygen debt to get those cells whirring.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Loading up by zodiac onto the National Geographic Explorer 11
    Straight away off for an intro walk. Flamingos enjoying the brackish watersA teenage booby yet to acquire his blue feetBoobie and babyBel, keen to continue her animal selfie seriesOk. That's just showing offI keep it PG so I won't mention what is happening hereTypical maleBoobie on the road side completely oblivious to our small groupEven more obliviousRock pillow

    Boarding Day

    November 1 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    This is in retrospect because the day was so busy. In fact, everyday is going to be so busy with 2 excursions plus a full conference schedule each day. Tomorrow (today) I have to run a workshop as well!
    I'll try and keep these going but Bel's blood is going to have better photos of all the amazing wildlife. Some of you will be relieved to know that we are not allowed to eat any of them.    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    The zodiacs that take us everywhere.
    Red sand and blue water. It feels like a different planet.We took a hike to the highpoint of the islandAnd were careful to avoid the cacti that are everywhereI think this is a Darwin finchWe had the beach to ourselvesAlmostSo comfortable on the warm sandReady to snorkel. Once I figure out GoPro file compression I'll add some sea creatures!The pelicans here have to work for their food. Some impressive dive bombing.The sunsets on the equator last less than 5 minutes from one edge of the sun to the other.Wait for it....They don't even care if you are swimming next to the fish

    Red Rabida

    November 2 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today was an unbelievably full day: trekking, snorkelling, attending lectures and presenting an ultrasound workshop. Thanks Bel for being my trusty anatomy model, you have amazing inguinal anatomy and nice ulnar nerves.

    Rabida is red. The beach is the same colour red as tomato paste colour due to all the iron oxide. We will need a holiday to get over this holiday. The Galapagos schedule has zero downtime.    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Literally a mess of iguanas
    Teenage boys1Bel fully committing to the selfies seriesSea lion not committing to anythingA marine iguana! The flat rudder-like tail is a giveawayI'm going to use this for my next airway talkIt was open for a split second onlyLand iguanas can't swim at allThey are such a deep black that Darwin called them imps of darknessGalapagos cactus.. looks like sour wormsGalapagos penguin. Small but fast.And here's one for my next talk on epiduralsMore iguanasAirborne!After lunch: a zodiac tour of Isabella IslandFur sealBirds flying in all directionsThere's always a boobie somewhereThey've gotta come up for air eventuallyEven this sea lion was sniffing the airTall cliffs and long shadowsEnjoying the full days and the warm breezeRooftop wine tastingWith an unbeatable backdropStill can't get over them

    Fernandina Island and Isabela Island

    November 3 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    They upped the ante again today with a hike, a deep water snorkel and a zodiac tour. Today was a chance to get acquainted with marine iguanas and sea turtles! The terrain, the 6 foot rule and the creatures are making Bel's terrible selfie series more and more challenging.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    A short bus ride from the Puerto
    Wilson is my favourite naturalist. Somehow he brings everything back to reproduction 😂Lonesome George. Unfortunately he didn't have any offspring.A hybrid giant tortoise. Equivalent of a mule1 year old giant tortoises playing sleeping lions2 year olds starting to get up to mischiefIf they make it to 4 or 5 years of age then they won't have any predators besides man250kg laterThe farmhouse where we could wander the grounds looking for free roaming tortoisesWe managed to get out okEvery second rock was a tortoiseThe horses didn't know what to do with themMales have a big tailA bit of rain and the shell is looking super shiny. Just like turtle waxConstant grazingThis is real time. It's as fast as they goThere are many reasons to come to the Galapagos. This is not one of them. MehLocal entertainment. Andean pipe music and traditional dancing

    Heroes in a Half Shell

    November 6 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A full day without getting wet! We re-entered civilization to explore the Charles Darwin Research Station, Tortoise Breeding Centre and the surrounding farmland on Santa Cruz Island. This is the home of the giant tortoises. There are about 8000 roaming freely around the island!Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Our last hike as we searched for the red footed booby
    It didn't take long but we wanted to get a good look at the feetBingoBongoOk that's just showing offThe eastern most point of the GalapagosWhich was very windyThe Galapagos mockingbirdIt's always nap time for these guysOur last dip in the PacificIt has been an incredible expeditionHappy campersSea lion rockGoodbye Galapagos

    Returning to civilization

    November 7 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    It was the last day of the expedition today and the Nat Geo team did it really well. It seems that every island is chosen to reveal a new species. Today: the red footed booby. The 3 types have completely different lifestyles and habitats. The red footed isn't as cool as its blue cousin but is less common. The day drifted after the conference sessions into a walk along a pristine beach at sunset, a top deck cocktail party and finally a communal photo session. 7 nights was the perfect length. It has been tiring but fulfilling on so many levels.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    They looked after our hands carry items so that we could explore the town unhindered
    A small fishing and tourism townA cafe was booked out for us so that we could have a place to sit and eat until transit timeThe large couple next to bel paid to upgrade to the emergency row onboard. Score!

    Back to base

    November 8 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Back to back transit days so I'll be brief. The short flight from San Cristobal to Guayaquil was done with the attention to detail that we've come to expect from the Nat Geo team: bags taken from ship room to hotel room, finger food and icecream waiting at the check-in line to keep us happy, room keys and individual transit arrangements all pre-organised.
    The flight to JFK arrives late. Hopefully the government shutdown doesn't get in the way!

    https://youtu.be/us8udrMxXQ4    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Boss move: gamble that the middle seat would remain unchosen paid off
    Heavy traffic at 1130pmFancy doorFancy toiletriesFancy waterFancy glassesFancy champersFancy tap handlesFancy lift buttons

    The Eagle has Landed

    November 9 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A much needed sleep in then a long transit day with a final arrival just after midnight. But if you have to crash I highly recommend crashing in the recently reopened Waldorf Astoria on Park Ave NYC. Initial impressions are just that everything is fancy. We might have to wear our finest macpac apparel.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    We saw them growing in Ecuador. The farmers earn about 10c each stem. Here they are in the Waldorf
    The reflection pools sited where the twin towers once stood1Oz coffee >> Ecuadorian coffee >>>>>>>>>>> US coffeeA once on a generation moment for emergency personnel.If you're going to be patriotic, be patriotic. Good on 'em.Back at the Waldorf... This is the studio in the gymSpacious and classy.Water bottles are available at the entranceBut just in case the 5m to the fridge was too far, each workout machine has it's own towel and waterA little more space between apparatus than at the west pymble YHeadphones, in case you left yours in your roomIt's hard to capture the opulence. It isn't just a flash lobby .. It's everywhere!Sounds crass but it's pretty classy. Trump should've checked this place out before renovating the WHPeacock Alley bar. Appropriately named. People come here to... well, to peacockA tenement apartment on display complete with the story of its occupants. Far from the WaldorfNo French toiletries here.A tasting tour to reflect the times. Should've done the roaring 20s tour?The food was better at Via Carota, the first of our planned NY meals.3We ate in the cloak section with some Singaporeans to avoid a 1hr wait. Verdict: Leichhardt better.

    These Vagabonds

    November 10 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Ok, so the Waldorf is amazing but the staff are next level. They are all model types who are dressed in glam, but super classy outfits based on their section and their role. The *welcome" boys and girls at the Peacock Alley bar, for example wear peacock blue safari suits for boys and goldfinger sequined bodysuits for girls... Unless, of course, it is daytime in which case the girls wear Barbarellaesque silver space jumpsuits. They are all well trained to be super friendly, playful and not at all snooty despite the $5000 flower displays, 10m high frescoed ceilings and decor that is clearly the inspiration for Hollywood Brown Derby. Yeah we went to the 9/11 memorial and to a cafe but let's focus on the hotel and it's history... Wowsers! At the other end of the spectrum we did go to the tenement museum which features the original buildings of immigrants that came to the US.. their homes, their stories and their struggles. What a contrast!Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Their names are so American
    These guys would be whipped in North KoreaPublic affection? No... It was 3 degrees (feels like Costco milk section)Ready to be impressedNice start: a cute hand towel holderThen we were presented with a box of unique chopsticks to choose from: like Harry Potter Asian styleI chose these ones (or vice versa)This is the Japanese degustation at the Waldorf by the wayBy far the best meal we've had in the US ever.If you ever see this rice lager...buy it!And have it with some wagyu!Yoshoku. Significantly better food, service and price than the Modern (spoilers!)

    Thank you for your service

    November 11 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We replaced the poppies and gnarly old RSL stalwarts with sousaphones, stars & stripes and military school students. Remembrance day is usually a sombre affair, but in NYC at least, it is a flag waving, march-song singing parade complete with hundreds of units and a few dozen floats. We camped out on a corner with a good view and watched the progressively older and less out-of-time schools march by. We weren't strong enough to last until the adults arrived as our resolve drifted with the snow.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    Just in Time: completely carried by Jonathan Groff. He is the ultimate triple threat!
    Dinner at 2 Michelin The Modern at MoMA. It's a solid "Just ok" from usBack at Peacock Alley chillin and perusing the free playbill (catch up Sydney!)An awesome jazz band that I listened to for 2 hrs comparing Jap and Scottish whiskeysIgnore the coaster just turn the volume up

    Top End of Town

    November 12 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Today was quintessential Manhattan high life. A lazy morning followed by an afternoon at the theatre, dinner at MoMA and drinks at Peacock Alley.
    The cold snap killed my pickleball chances in the morning but that was probably always wishful thinking.Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    A Grammy nominated original musical about 2 semi-obsolete helper robots that fall in love
    A little to the side but front row of the mezzanineOf the beautiful Belasco theatreMaybe not as beautiful as the Morgan libraryHe owned an eclectic collection of items: Dickens' originals, Egyptian relics, original oils..He had hidden sections for his romance novels!The highlight is definitely the library. They are all first editionsHe had a few Renoirs to brighten things up a bitBut Lisa Yuskavage was more our style. This is Neon Sunset

    Maybe Happy Ending

    November 13 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    What a fitting way to end the initial leg of the Festival of 50! A pre-dinner prix fixe dinner at Benoit then a stroll past Radio City Hall, smoky sidewalks and street vendors to the beautiful Belasco theatre to see one of the hottest musicals in town: Maybe Happy Ending.

    Before the French meal we stumbled across a visiting Renoir exhibition at the Morgan museum and galleries. We tried to take it all in for trivia and to improve our minds, but I always feel like Ferris Bueller walking around art galleries. We did, however, discover Lisa Yuskavage! First it was discovering Botero in Colombia and now Yuskavage in the States. It must be a sign of getting older.

    We check out in the morning. See you soon.    Read more

  • Beagle to Eagle
    4-PW, 58 degree and driver. They feel awesome!

    Definitely a happy ending

    November 16 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Home and back to work but after 20 years I have finally invested in a new set of golf clubs which were waiting for me when I got home.
    Penguin over and out

    Trip end
    November 16, 2025
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