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Mexit

February - March 2019
One month in Mexico Read more
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  • TravelerMexit
    Day 25

    Days 25 & 26: Cuilapan and Tlacolula

    March 2, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Oaxaca lies in such a fascinating part of the country that one could spend the best part of two weeks doing just day excursions. Features of New World architecture are "capillas abiertas" which besides ordinary churches, are roofless extensions built hurriedly in the 16th and 17th centuries for the mass conversions of indigenous people. Sadly the Spanish conquest caused the death of millions from European diseases so these monuments soon became redundant, but they remain as romantic ruins resembling ancient abbeys from the Old World. One of these is at Cuilapan, an easy 20-minute bus ride from Oaxaca. I watch a marching band leaving the main church, commemorating the life of a friend who died 10 years ago.

    The state of Oaxaca is not shy either when it comes to street markets and quite apart from the cavernous market in the state capital, there is at least one for every day of the week. They have specialities such as pottery in one, cheese in another; the mainly indigenous population dress up in traditional costumes. Sunday is the turn for another "Tlackers", Tlacolula, about 45 minutes south-east of Oaxaca. Tens of thousands of people gather to browse among the grocery stalls; there are also rugs, crafts and ceramics. The 16th century church has some of the finest gold-leaf covered carvings to be found anywhere.    Read more

  • TravelerMexit
    Day 27

    Days 27 & 28: Tlaxcala

    March 4, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It's a shame to be leaving Oaxaca but I hope to return one day. The road to Puebla passes through some arid landscapes, the hillsides cloaked with huge cacti. When I did this route many years ago, it was by train and I could enjoy the scenery at leisure due to a derailment and it took several hours to get the train moving again. The trains have been run down all over the country and are used only for freight; what a contrast to many Asian countries where the lines are flourishing.

    At Puebla there is a change and a shorter run to Tlaxcala. Less well known than Puebla or Oaxaca, it's a city of about 100,000. The first picture shows a detail at the charming guest house where I'm staying but Tlaxcala is also known for its Colonial monuments. It's a steep 20 minute walk up to the Basilica of Ocotlan; the street is lined with ceramic tiles depicting Biblical scenes so it feels like a pilgrimage. This is one of the finest churches in all Mexico; I haven't included photos of the church itself because it's covered with scaffolding but these images show the unusual brickwork and extravagant art work inside.

    Another reason for my visiting Tlaxcala is its Carnival, one of the closest to Mexico City where I must be in a couple of days. There are dancing displays in the spacious main plaza both afternoons I am there, plus a parade with a multitude of floats. It's also an opportunity for protesters, in this case university students and teachers, to voice their opinions on the local government. Rain eventually stops play but this being Shrove Tuesday, there will probably be some sore heads tomorrow. As the Seekers once sang, the carnival is over.    Read more

  • TravelerMexit
    1
    Day 29

    Days 29 & 30: back to Mexico City

    March 6, 2019 in Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Leaving Tlaxcala takes a climb up a flight of 200 steps so I need to get my breath back before arranging the next and final leg. The bus to the nation's capital takes an easy 2 hours to the eastern terminal. The metro to Sevilla station is anything but easy however; due to delays it's a 15-minute wait to get on the train and the nine stops take a further 45 as more and more people try to pile in. Never again!

    It's a relief to make the short walk from Sevilla back to Any's. Sadly I don't get one of the rooms in the old block but the bonus is that Alfonso the proprietor is back from a business trip. He offers a wealth of information on things to see in this Roma district. And it's not hard to find quirky sights such as this charming statue amid the urban bustle, and how they advertise a burger joint while the lights are red.

    With my final full day in Mexico City, I'm headed for the Mercado Merced, a covered market three times the size of a football pitch. Everything imaginable is available here and the sweet tooth is indulged with a honey stall and sweets sold in 100 gram measures. I can't resist the chocolate---after all, it was first cultivated in Mexico by the Aztecs as "xocoatl". Everything is arranged with meticulous precision. And three football pitches aren't large enough to accommodate it all, spilling out into the surrounding streets all the 15 blocks to the Zocalo.

    After an enquiry of Alfonso about Mexican female singers, he has recommended six, some no longer with us but others very much so. None of his names coincide with another six singers listed in the Rough Guide, so entering a record shop on the pedestrianised Avenida Madero, I am in a quandary. After an hour I find a double CD of a concert performance by three of them (Tania Libertad and Guadalupe Pineda (Alfonso's list) and Eugenia Leon (mine). AND it includes a feature-length DVD. Perfect!

    On the final day I walk to another of Alfonso's suggestions, the Mercado Medellin, less frenetic than the Merced but with a local neighbourhood flavour. After lunch at a Sanborn's in the city centre, I hike down Reforma, a multi-lane avenue shaded by trees and punctuated by pompous statues and monuments. At the last one I run into an all-female demonstration and remember that it's International Women's Day.

    It's a pity to be leaving Mexico City but it's been a hugely satisfying trip. What would be the high spot? Maybe the Oaxaca carnival but there would be many other candidates. The overnight flight to Heathrow isn't the most comfortable and I'm relieved to get home. Waiting for me is a postcard from my brother of the Yucatan site of Chichen Itza, but it's probably only because he posted it from the USA that it's got here. My own postcards sent from Mexico City at the start of the trip still have nearly a month to go!    Read more

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