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Lin's Prague Journal
Lin's Prague Journal

Lin's Prague Journal

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  • Lin's Prague JournalPrague 2019Lin's Prague Journal
    The Bar
    The ceiling!Pillar Decor.1

    Day 8 - A WOW Finale!

    4. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We had booked a dinner reservation at Mylnik, a short distance away.

    The pictures of our experience tell the story of an incredible meal, served by personable staff (Yulia & Tomas) in a gorgeous environment with a beautiful view. One surprise after another - we were absolutely delighted!

    The first surprise was being seated on a glassed patio with a close up view of the Charles Bridge AND having gentle misters overhead. So refreshing in the +29 heat. This, after walking through the main restaurant - check out the artistic flair!

    We had a glass of Czech wine which was very smooth. The bread and cheese spread starters were very, very good. Both of us chose the 'veal fillet mignon a la schnitzel' as our main course. The presentation and taste? O. M. G.

    Further surprises were the pre and post palette teaser/refresher, each amazing little works of art and full of interesting and pleasing flavors.

    We decided to try the strawberry marscapone pistachio dessert. Our plates arrived with a dramatic flourish - a tall sparkler & dry ice in a small bowl on a plate with 'Happy Birthday' written in chocolate script.

    When we booked online, we'd mentioned briefly that we were celebrating birthdays with a trip to Prague. But, never in a million years did we expect the restaurant to pick up on that and treat us as they did.

    The dessert was gorgeous and flavorful. Almost too pretty to eat. Almost.

    The last surprises were small boxes that held tiny squares of rich chocolate covered in raspberry dust!

    What a memorable finale for our trip!    Lue lisää

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    Day 8 - Cafe Savoy Encore

    4. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Diane & I enjoyed our breakfast at Cafe Savoy so much the first time, we thought it would be a perfect choice this morning.

    And it was! Easily a 10/10 again! The presentation and flavours were out of this world. Any guesses what I had? Cappuchino doesn't count!Lue lisää

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    Day 8 - Stellar Views & Other Neat Stuff

    4. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We had booked lunch at the monastery's Bella Vista terrace based on a Rick Steeves recommendation. The panaramic views of Prague were beautiful and having travelled around for a week we could identify some landmarks.

    Diane had shrimp for lunch and I had a really tasty avocado salad, followed by you guessed it - a cafe latte for Diane & cappucino for me.

    The wait staff were a bit of a gong show. They repeatedly asked us the same questions and had no idea when one of them had already been to the table. The female waitress forcefully plunked a bottle of sparkling water on the table but brought no glasses. It didn't spoil our meal - we just concluded they needed a good process consultant!

    We noticed people drinking green beer and learned that the monastery makes it.

    Upon leaving the grounds the van in the last picture caught Diane's attention. What an advertisement! Chris, do you see zombies or is it just me?    Lue lisää

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    A wooden book. Other titles have lichen from the same tree on the spines.
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    Day 8 - Strahov Monastery

    4. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This is a definite 'must see' for book and history lovers! And a private tour is the only way to do it. Why? Because you get to walk inside the rooms versus looking in from a doorway. And, more importantly to learn the most intriguing stories and facts you'd never find on the Internet.

    Our guide George was very knowledgeable and pleased to share his expertise during the 45 minute tour. We suspect he was a retired professor.

    Some of the following info was pulled from brochures he gave us.

    The Strahov Library has approximately 280,000 titles - 3,000 are manuscripts. The oldest manuscript is the Strahov Gospel dated in 860. It is not on public view due to the need for a climate-controlled environment.

    In front of the Philosophical Hall were 'Cabinets of Curiosities'. I learned that there is no skeleton of a dodo bird (despite hearsay on the Internet). There were, however, some pretty ugly and downright weird things in those old cabinets. Would have liked more time to examine the displays but that was not possible.

    The Philosophical Hall was built to accommodate the size and height of the book shelves. I loved the ornate ceiling. One of the beautiful globes in the middle of the hall depicted countries as envisioned at the time. Canada was missing, except for the east coast.

    The next impressive room we toured was the Theological Hall. George pointed out that the ornate mural on the ceiling was painted in six months by F. Anton Maulbertsch of Vienna with only one helper. There is a 4 volume work about the Louvre Museum, sent by the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte. (More to that story.) And, there's a secret door to access the upper levels! Check out the last picture. The rows of books closest to the door are angled to accommodate the hidden circular staircase. Cool!

    Apparently, the librarian and archivist Prior Cyril Stratka, named the two halls. He was a Czech bookbinding expert who influenced making the library accessible to the public.

    Thank you, Cyril!    Lue lisää

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    Day 8 - Our Last Day in Prague

    4. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We've booked a private tour of the Strahhov Library at the hilltop monestery next to the castle at 11:15 today. Lots of time for a leisurely breakfast before we hop the tram.

    Afternoon plans to be determined. We may take a tram to Vsyhrad. Last night at the Klementinum we talked to an English lady who highly recommended it.

    However...

    We're keenly aware that our internal batteries are having challenges re-energizing for more than short bursts of time. We'd both prefer to pace ourselves better than we have up until now. Especially since the forecast is 29 degrees!

    Another memorable Prague day awaits...    Lue lisää

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    Day 7 - The Rest of the Story...

    3. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    By this time, it was mid-afternoon and 28 degrees under a clear blue sky on hot city pavement. We were both losing steam quickly so nixed the idea of going to Vsyhrad.

    Headed back to our apartment after finding the Municipal Library's 'Idiom' or 'Wormhole'. It was featured on the cover of Science Magazine in 2011. It's quite unassuming from the exterior (just a column of books laid flat on one another) but inside it mirrors create the illusion of infinity.

    We met Jacob, a long-time friend of Diane's son-in-law for coffee/cake at 6. It was wonderful to hear first-hand what it's like to live in Prague and to learn more about local customs. A very genuine and talented young man.

    We parted ways and attended a music concert at The Mirror Room in the Klemetinum. Imagine 5 talented musicians playing 4 stringed instruments and the chapel's massive organ, an opera singer with a powerful voice and a beautiful space with great acoustics. What a perfect way to end our day!    Lue lisää

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    Day 7 - Jewish Museums & Cemetery

    3. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Today we toured the Pinkas Synagogue & Old Jewish Cemetery and the Klausen Synagogue.

    The Pinkas Synagogue is a memorial to Holocost victims from Moravia & Bohemia. The walls are covered with the names of the 77,297 Jewish people who died. There is a display of art made by children in the Terezin concentration camp which was located about 70 km north of Prague.

    The cemetery is equally moving. For over 300 years it was the only buriel ground permitted for the Jews. There are an estimated 100,000 graves buried on top of each other, as much as 12 layers deep.

    The Klaussen Synagogue has a collection of scripts and items used to maintain Jewish customs.    Lue lisää

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    Day 7 - Canal Boat Ride

    3. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We decided to take a boat ride through the canals and see Prague from the river. Lots of interesting info about the river and bridges.

    A tiny girl (Diane thought she might be 20 months old) was happily waving to all the ducks & dancing playfully for Diane. So cute!Lue lisää

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    David Cerny's 'Pee'

    Day 7 - Charles Bridge & Czech Art

    3. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We were on our way to the Charles Bridge just before 7 and had an enjoyable amble across it. The bridge is built of sandstone blocks and is flanked at both ends by fortified towers. Thirty statues of saints, all beautiful ornate sculptures, decorate the bridge, the most famous being St. John of Nepomuk. It is considered good luck to rub parts of certain statues and decorative elements.

    We saw at least five wedding couples having formal pictures taken, many buskers and artists doing caricatures. BUT, no crowds! Yet.

    David Cerny's controversial sculpture 'Pee' was nearby in the Kafka Museum's courtyard so off we went to take a few pics.

    There were two marionette shops located at the Maya Strana end of Charles Bridge. The work of the artists was spectacular. I resisted buying a marionette for Shandi as there were simply too many to choose from and as they were hand-crafted, very expensive.

    We also discovered a unique shop that sold wooden items. Gorgeous!    Lue lisää

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    Day 7 - Jewish Town & Vsyhrad

    3. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We'll be out the door at 7 this morning to walk Charles Bridge before it becomes mega-crowded. After that, the priorities are a latte for Diane and a cappucino for me.

    We'll tour more of Josefov and catch a tram south to Vsyhrad.

    It's forecast to be 28 today so sunscreen is a must.

    Tonight we'll attend a smaller concert at the Mirror Chapel in the Klementium after meeting a friend of Diane's son-in-law.

    I feel so very fortunate to be in able to take trips like this! Diane's presence, observations, blog and pictures, have enriched my experience beyond measure.    Lue lisää

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    Moldavite Sample

    Day 6 - Cesky Krumlov

    2. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today we hopped a Regiobus to Cesky Krumlov, an 8:00 a.m. departure and roughly a 3-hour drive from Prague. We had booked tickets online for an English-speaking tour of the castle and otherwise planned to see the Marionette and Moldovite museums, wander the streets and enjoy the atmosphere.

    Once we arrived, we decided to have lunch/supper at the Ruze Hotel. We had their Panaramic Terrace largely to ourselves. We both chose duck with red cabbage and two types of sliced dumplings, and at the waiter's suggestion, a Czech garlic soup. Everything was melt-in-your-mouth goodness, and the garlic soup, an especially pleasant surprise.

    The view was stunning! The terrace was just above the river and we looked directly onto a green, lush hilly park. Imagine sunshine, blue skies, birds singing and the gentle sounds of water flowing. It felt like time had stood still.

    After lunch, we wandered the streets until we found the Moldovite Museum. Moldavite is a meteor-formed precious stone, created only under certain conditions. We watched a short video and speed-viewed the museum displays; then walked up stairs and uphill to the castle for our tour.

    The guide was excellent! We learned the castle's history and some interesting facts about its Rococo style. I was particularly impressed by three things - the chapel, the Masquerade Hall (http://images.app.goo.gl/dr7rwpkhC2XSazhx8) and a porcelain chandelier with ornate flowers in an oriental design.

    Diane opted to people-watch and enjoy the views while I trekked up to check out the revolving theatre (http://www.ckrumlov.info/docs/en/atr753.xml) and the Royal Gardens.

    We passed on the Marionette Museum in favor of a sit-down break in the shade (27 degrees in direct sun on hot pavement was wearing). Went back to the Ruze and the Ukrainian mother/son working there remembered us from lunch. Ice cream for Diane and a yummy apple strudel for me.

    Back to the bus stop and a comfy trip back to Prague.

    From my perspective, the day flew by and it was hard to believe we'd been in Cesky Krumlov for seven hours and on buses for another six hours. It was simply not enough time to explore the town at a relaxing pace. I'd recommend an overnight stay there.

    My bottom-line impressions of Cesky Krumlov? From a distance, stunningly beautiful. Close-up, not so much.The cobbled streets are lined with souvenier shops & restaurants. Uber crowds. Very touristy. Not at all the charming fairy-tale Bohemian town I had imagined when reading about it.

    That said, I would definitely recommend it as a destination to others. I remember what a tour guide constantly mentioned when I was in Greece, 'If you don't see what you expect, change your expectations'. Great advice.    Lue lisää

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    Day 5 - Kampa Island Park

    1. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We decided to head to Kampa for lunch and a look-see. Along the way, checked out the Lennon Wall. I read somewhere that it's the only place in the city where grafitti is legal but we've seen this type of street art all over the place. That said, Lennon's Wall has taken on a special significance to people desiring independence & freedom.

    Lovers Bridge used to be covered with locks that declared people's love for one another. However the city removes the locks regularly to protect the integrity of the bridge. Now the gnome-like fellow is on his own.

    More cool street art! David Cerny's 'Babies' are larger than life and are said to have barcode faces. Very unusual as are all of his creations.

    And more... The yellow penguins by The Cracking Art Group are made of recycled plastic bottles taken from landfill sites. They are marching in protest of what is happening to their Antarctic home due to global warming and environmental destruction.

    We chose the Sovovy restaurant by happenstance. It was riverside, the food was good and the views, spectacular! It was so relaxing to watch people enjoying the day in paddleboats shaped like cars, geese, and other shapes. Large boats shared the same space and moved through the locks beside us. At times, it was a bit of a traffic jam in the locks and in the open channel.

    Diane struck up a conversation with a very nice couple who joined us at our table. We discovered it's a very small world. They live in Calgary and the lady grew up near Diane's son-in-law's home town in Siberia. She was very passionate about astrology and healing waters.

    We headed home and have had a lazy evening. Tomorrow, we're going to Cesky Krumlov in southern Bohemia, a 3-hour bus trip each way. Need to be up especially early to tram it over to the main bus station. 💤💤    Lue lisää

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    Day 5 - Naplavka Market & Maya Strana

    1. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today we planned to go to the riverside market, the Czech Museum of Music & explore the 'Little Quarter' neighborhood across the river from where we are staying.

    First up, coffee! The apartment has a French press and some ground coffee but it is barely drinkable for me and not even that for Diane. Cafe Ebel was nearby, thankfully.

    The Naplavka market sold mainly foods - meats, bakery items, fresh veggies & flowers. Took a pic of a mushroom (?) with a most interesting shape & a beautiful flower the Czechs call 'Jirinka'.

    There were lots of people, many with small kids & small dogs. Along the boardwalk, various eating places and tour boats.

    One of the interesting vendors was a fellow who sold wine drawn from spigots at the back of his van. For serious beer drinkers, there was Tankove Pivo, roughly translated as tanks of beer. And there were tanks!

    It was hot-hot-hot and manoevering through the crowds was exhausting!    Lue lisää

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    Day 5 - Czech Museum of Music

    1. kesäkuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I loved this museum & could have stayed there for hours! A very unassuming first impression but a Wow! factor inside every exhibition room. The instruments were staged in categories, e.g. pianos, violins, drums, and so forth.

    The interactive design allowed you to listen to recordings of instruments and to learn something unique about each of them.

    You could opt to play select instruments. That was fun. I loved the feel of the harp's strings & its sound. In contrast, my attempts to play the theremen were a bust. It was difficult to achieve anything remotely melodious.

    If like me, you'd never heard of a theremen before, check out this You Tube video: http://youtu.be/7l9YcewEumw.

    Chris, this link is for you & other Star Trek fans: http://youtu.be/Rhw8lk-DUGU though the original series did not use a theremen. 😊    Lue lisää

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    Day 4 - Ending on a High Note

    31. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Tonight we attended a second concert, part of the International Prague Spring Festival. This was held in the Smetana Hall at the Municipal Building. It looked and felt much different than it did on our tour with so many people in the room.

    Diane's navigational skills are AWE - full while mine are simply awful. She manoevered us thru the dense crowds there and back in record time without a map! If it had been me, we would have ended up lost, miles away from our destination.

    The concert was world class. It featured the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra and a guest pianist whose fingers moved like lightning across the keys, yet so gracefully it seemed he barely made contact. He used no sheet music to play very complex melodies!

    The conductor was interesting to watch - his physical movements, his smile & his obvious pride in the orchestra's performance. Diane noticed that he singled out those musicians who could not readily be seen by the audience for applause. It led me to wonder things like... How do you learn to be a conductor? Are the conductor's cues to the orchestra a variation of sign language? Are there any famous female conductors?

    I noticed that all the people playing stringed instruments held bows in their right hands. Can a person play the violin well using the bow in their left hand? Could they be part of an orchestra given the seating and symmetry you see when everyone is playing on stage?

    Anther observation was the difference in expressions & body movements of three oboe (?) musicians. The one closest to the audience smiled constantly & bobbed his head wildly as he played. The one in the middle barely moved & had no expression on his face. The 3rd changed the intensity of his facial expressions constantly and his body seemed to meld with his instrument.

    On our way back, I took some pics along Charles Street - here, souvenier shops sell chandeliers and candy that looks like fried eggs. 😯    Lue lisää

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    Day 4 - New Town Here We Come!

    31. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our priorities today were exploring New Town, enjoying cafe time, watching the Roma parade in Wenceslas Square, discovering street art & visiting the Mucha Museum. Time & energy permitting we might go to Vsehrad (the historical park & cemetery).

    We opted for breakfast at Cafe Louvre where Einstein, Franz Kafka and other well-known public figures were said to frequent. The cafe's been around since 1902 and hosts local actors at a closed event each month. Our meal was very good & the service, the best yet.

    After enjoying a great fortifier for the day, we made our way to the square, seeing the Memorial of the Velvet Revolution, David Cerny's Metalmorphosis (42 moving layers that continously deconstruct and reconstruct Franz Kafka's head), the Cubist lamp post (reputed to be the only one in the world), and the Franciscan Garden (a delightful reprieve from concrete and crowds). Posed in front of the 'Wild Girls/Divozenky' sculpture by Josef Klimes'.

    At one exit from the gardens was a piece of the Berlin Wall, complete with barbed wire & an old German-made car (Trabant I'd guess) sitting angled on top of the break (my interpretation... to depict East Germans' escape from communism).

    On to the square to catch the Roma (Gypsy) parade, held as part of the International Khomoro Festival.    Lue lisää

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    Day 4 - These are for YOU, Chris!

    31. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    You know how you luuuuvvvv your kitchen appliances? Here's one to add to your list. Pictures taken at Styl & Interier Garden Cafe today.

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    Day 4 - More Street Art

    31. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    New Town 'wins' for having some of the most eclectic street art. Here are a few more examples, starting with 'Slight Uncertainty' by Michel Trpak: sculptures of a man & a woman hanging from umbrellas suspended from overhead cables. Apparently, meant to depict the working class in economic crisis. Note the huge mushrooms on the wall behind him and the huge insect on the wall of the building behind her. Hmmmm, whatever were the artists thinking?????

    Bugs on walls. Huh???? P.S. Diane reminded me that Kafka was into insects in a big way!

    Funky street chairs. 👍    Lue lisää

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    Day 4 - Roma Parade & The Mucha Museum

    31. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We weren't sure what to expect re: the Roma parade since the degree of publicity typical of an international, annual event was not evident. This, in sharp contrast to Prague's Spring Festival where posters abound!

    The parade kicked off at noon sharp and those in it had passed by us in five minutes. Shortest parade ever! The colorful costumes & music were wonderful! A perfect example (maybe) of 'Less is More'.

    Off we went to the Mucha Museum after finding out the Cafe Europa had been closed for 5 years. Don't know how I missed that in my online research. 😕

    A wonderful lady welcomed us to the museum & later recommended a cafe (we couldn't find it) that was less touristy, better food & less expensive than the one we eventually went to.

    The display of Mucha's art was impressive. Even more so was learning about his 'Slav Epic' work which I was unfamiliar with. It took him 18 years to produce 20 canvasses as a means of freeing the Slavs & depicting their culture. He wanted to build a strong feeling of national consciousness and when they were freed, felt he had achieved that.

    A quick stop at Lucerna Passage to see David Cerny's 'Horse', followed by lunch at the Styl & Interier Cafe. A little garden cafe with a relaxing atmosphere. You'd never know a busy traffic area was outside its entrance. Re-energized, we looked for more street art on our way 'home'.    Lue lisää

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    This is for YOU, Jan!

    31. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Strudel, glorious strudel. Mouthwatering strudel. Poppyseed & plum. Totally decadent. Loved. Every. Single. Bite. 😘

    My Cafe Louvre breakfast - neat 'froth art' depicting their logo on the cappuccino.

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    Walking the Rudolfinum's Blue Carpet

    30. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Tonight we went to a concert at the Rudolfinum, the 'Orquestra de Cadaques'. It was one of the events in the Prague Spring Festival, an annual 'must' experience for classical music lovers.

    A beautiful environment & beautiful music. We felt a bit self-conscious doing it, but walked up & down the 'blue carpet'!

    On the way back to the apartment, Charles Bridge was crowded, despite the time. Took a pic of an ornate lamp post & the castle in the distance (not the greatest shot).

    A long day but a very good one overall. ☺☺ 💤💤    Lue lisää

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    St. Vitus Cathedral Jawdropping!

    30. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This has to be one of the most beautiful cathedrals we have ever seen! Lots of history. The stained glass windows were uber impressive, my favorite being the Art Nouveau panels by Mucha. Diane felt the cathedral was far more opulent & ornate than any of the French cathedrals she's seen.

    The 287 steps to the top of the South Tower were a challenge I couldn't resist. The reward for a very laborious climb in a tight winding stairwell? The 360 degree views of Prague that were even more spectacular because it was a sunny & cloudless day.

    Prague is known as 'The City of 100 Spires' - wonder how many were captured in the three pictures posted? It may be hard to see but there is a tower on Petrin Hill that is fashioned after the Eiffel Tower in Paris.    Lue lisää

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    Day 3 - Castle Fortification Breakfast

    30. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We had breakfast at Cafe Savoy in the Maya Strana/Little Quarter area. O. M. G.

    The service was excellent & the food was 10/10. Decided to recreate some of the dishes for Chris after I'm home.

    An added bonus was being able to see into the baking area on the lower level.

    Fortified for the day, we hopped on Tram 22 which took us within a block of the Castle. Took a bit to figure out ticket validation the first time, but we had it aced on the return trip.    Lue lisää

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    This One's For You, Joe!

    29. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After dinner I took a pic of the nearby Dancing House. Coincidentally, a commuter train was going by AND it was covered in beer photos! Pretty cool, eh?

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    Day 2 - For The Foodies in my Life...

    29. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Tonight Diane & I celebrated our birthdays at the Botel Matylda Restaurant (www.botelmatylda.cz). It was easily a 10/10! Pleasant environment, customer oriented service & artful presentations. My salmon was cooked to perfection and the rhubarb dessert with raspberries and a peanut dumpling was awesome! Going to the Castle tomorrow so sure to work off the calories!Lue lisää

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    This One's for You, Annette!

    29. toukokuuta 2019, Tšekin tasavalta ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Saw this knitted art creation entitled Frida Kahlo in the courtyard by the National Theatre, created by Czech artist Eva Blahova. (http://knittedsculptures.com). Can you imagine how long it took to make it?

    Saw it again mid-afternoon another day & took more pics.

    The theatre is very close to our apartment as is the Vltava River which wends its way through Prague.    Lue lisää

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