• Lin's Prague Journal

Prague 2019

April - June 2019 Read more
  • Trip start
    May 27, 2019

    Our Amazing Apartment in Prague

    April 24, 2019 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    We have booked an amazing apartment! (http:///www.vrbo.com/649520). Have prebooked two classical music events related to the Spring Music Festival, a private tour of the Strahov Library [http://strahovskyklaster.pano3d.cz/] & a tour of the Cesky Krumlov State Castle. Woohoo!Read more

  • Czech Republic - Did You Know?

    May 13, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    On 1 January 1993 Czechoslovakia formally separated into two independent countries, the Czech Republic and the Slovak Republic.

    2019 marks 100 years since The Czech National Bank introduced its monetary unit, the koruna, in banknotes and coins.

    There are 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Czech Republic. (Canada has 19.)

    According to research by the Japanese beverage company Kirin, the Czech Republic has topped the per capita beer drinking table for 23 consecutive years. In 2015, the most recent year for which statistics are available, the Czechs drank 142.4 litres per person. [http://www.traveller.com.au/worlds-biggest-beer…].

    In 1961, the first modern gel-based contact lenses were invented on a homemade apparatus using a Merkur child’s building set.

    A Czech first classified human blood into four types (A, B, AB & O) in 1907.

    Fingerprints were first recognized as a form of identification in 1823.

    The sugar cube was invented in 1841.

    And, they designed... shall we say, 'unusual looking' cars.
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  • The Countdown is On!

    May 22, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Five more sleeps and we'll be on our flight to Prague!

    Last night our neighbors shared their photos and tips re: the city over dinner cooked by Resident-Chef Chris. Diane and I both appreciate their insights, and will consider some 'new' things for our itinerary.

    One of the most intriguing? The novel elevator in Prague's City Hall [http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/paternoster-…]. Pretty cool, IMHO.
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  • Tomorrow Diane and I Fly to Prague!

    May 26, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    To my wonderful family and dear friends:

    Thank you for your heartfelt good wishes for my trip. I am thrilled to be going with Diane, and looking forward to exploring Prague and Cesky Krumlov, a town in southern Bohemia.

    We have to be at the airport at 2:30 p.m. tomorrow. It's a full 24 hours away and...

    My bags are packed. I am cool as a cucumber right now. I have even painted my nails... and stayed within the lines. There is nothing left to do except my boarding pass!

    Who would have thunk it????
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  • Day 1 in Prague

    May 28, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Prague is a very beautiful city, first impressions. The old, majestic & ornate buildings and the inticately cobbled streets contrast sharply with modern transportation and the fast pace but it all 'works'. We walked along the river and could see the historic castle on a hill behind the Charles Bridge. Had dinner at Cafe Slavia and called it a night. Check out the rum baba dessert - couldn't resist!Read more

  • Day 2 - Art Nouveau at its Finest!

    May 29, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Today we got a relatively early start & explored Old Town. We walked along Karlova (Charles Street), on a mission to reach Municipal House for a tour we'd booked on line.

    Municipal House (The People's House) holds much historical significance to Czechs. It is an Art Nouveau masterpiece on every scale. For example, each room has a theme that is reflected in the wall decor, hand embroidered draperies, chandeliers, vent covers & more! (http://www.obecnidum.cz/en/)

    Look closely & you can see the shadows of cleaning cloths on the dome - it was a bit disconcerting to see the shadows of people washing it from above us, but a testament to how well the building is being maintained.

    We were fortunate to see/hear some orchestra members practising on stage in Smetana Hall. This is one of Prague's reknowned music venues & we'll be attending a classical concert there on Friday night, one of the events in the International Spring Festival.

    As a final stop, we dropped in to the Amerikan Bar on the lower level. Not only is it the oldest bar in Prague but it was was the first to allow women to enter unaccompanied by men. Had 'water with bubbles' & on the way out, I took a cool mirror pic of Diane. (http://www.obecnidum.cz/en/shop/american-bar/)

    A great start to our day!
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  • Day 2 - Cubist Museum

    May 29, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    The Cubist Museum is located at the House of the Black Madonna. We had lunch in the cafe, decorated in cubist style & possibly the only one in the world. Would have liked to see more exhibits but enjoyed what was there, especially the novel furnuture which is NOT comfortable at all! The cubist paintings, not so much.

    An unexpected view was the cool staircase in the building.
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  • Day 2 - Spanish Synagogue in Jewish Town

    May 29, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Our last major stop of the day was in Josefov.

    The Spanish Synagogue is closing for renos on June 1st and we weren't certain we'd see it otherwise.

    Outside it stands the famous statue of Kafka - pretty weird as are many of the sculptures here. This particular one is by sculptor Jaroslav Rona who says he found inspiration from Kafka's short story 'Description of a Struggle'.

    The synagogue is beautiful in its ornate details and has a spectacular organ. It includes the history of Jews in Bohemia and Moravia in the 19-20 century and a display of synagogue silver from those regions. It is a popular venue for classical music concerts.
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  • This One's for You, Annette!

    May 29, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Saw this knitted art creation entitled Frida Kahlo in the courtyard by the National Theatre, created by Czech artist Eva Blahova. (http://knittedsculptures.com). Can you imagine how long it took to make it?

    Saw it again mid-afternoon another day & took more pics.

    The theatre is very close to our apartment as is the Vltava River which wends its way through Prague.
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  • Day 2 - For The Foodies in my Life...

    May 29, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Tonight Diane & I celebrated our birthdays at the Botel Matylda Restaurant (www.botelmatylda.cz). It was easily a 10/10! Pleasant environment, customer oriented service & artful presentations. My salmon was cooked to perfection and the rhubarb dessert with raspberries and a peanut dumpling was awesome! Going to the Castle tomorrow so sure to work off the calories!Read more

  • This One's For You, Joe!

    May 29, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After dinner I took a pic of the nearby Dancing House. Coincidentally, a commuter train was going by AND it was covered in beer photos! Pretty cool, eh?

  • Day 3 - Castle Fortification Breakfast

    May 30, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We had breakfast at Cafe Savoy in the Maya Strana/Little Quarter area. O. M. G.

    The service was excellent & the food was 10/10. Decided to recreate some of the dishes for Chris after I'm home.

    An added bonus was being able to see into the baking area on the lower level.

    Fortified for the day, we hopped on Tram 22 which took us within a block of the Castle. Took a bit to figure out ticket validation the first time, but we had it aced on the return trip.
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  • St. Vitus Cathedral Jawdropping!

    May 30, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    This has to be one of the most beautiful cathedrals we have ever seen! Lots of history. The stained glass windows were uber impressive, my favorite being the Art Nouveau panels by Mucha. Diane felt the cathedral was far more opulent & ornate than any of the French cathedrals she's seen.

    The 287 steps to the top of the South Tower were a challenge I couldn't resist. The reward for a very laborious climb in a tight winding stairwell? The 360 degree views of Prague that were even more spectacular because it was a sunny & cloudless day.

    Prague is known as 'The City of 100 Spires' - wonder how many were captured in the three pictures posted? It may be hard to see but there is a tower on Petrin Hill that is fashioned after the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
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  • Walking the Rudolfinum's Blue Carpet

    May 30, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Tonight we went to a concert at the Rudolfinum, the 'Orquestra de Cadaques'. It was one of the events in the Prague Spring Festival, an annual 'must' experience for classical music lovers.

    A beautiful environment & beautiful music. We felt a bit self-conscious doing it, but walked up & down the 'blue carpet'!

    On the way back to the apartment, Charles Bridge was crowded, despite the time. Took a pic of an ornate lamp post & the castle in the distance (not the greatest shot).

    A long day but a very good one overall. ☺☺ 💤💤
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  • This is for YOU, Jan!

    May 31, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Strudel, glorious strudel. Mouthwatering strudel. Poppyseed & plum. Totally decadent. Loved. Every. Single. Bite. 😘

    My Cafe Louvre breakfast - neat 'froth art' depicting their logo on the cappuccino.

  • Day 4 - Roma Parade & The Mucha Museum

    May 31, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We weren't sure what to expect re: the Roma parade since the degree of publicity typical of an international, annual event was not evident. This, in sharp contrast to Prague's Spring Festival where posters abound!

    The parade kicked off at noon sharp and those in it had passed by us in five minutes. Shortest parade ever! The colorful costumes & music were wonderful! A perfect example (maybe) of 'Less is More'.

    Off we went to the Mucha Museum after finding out the Cafe Europa had been closed for 5 years. Don't know how I missed that in my online research. 😕

    A wonderful lady welcomed us to the museum & later recommended a cafe (we couldn't find it) that was less touristy, better food & less expensive than the one we eventually went to.

    The display of Mucha's art was impressive. Even more so was learning about his 'Slav Epic' work which I was unfamiliar with. It took him 18 years to produce 20 canvasses as a means of freeing the Slavs & depicting their culture. He wanted to build a strong feeling of national consciousness and when they were freed, felt he had achieved that.

    A quick stop at Lucerna Passage to see David Cerny's 'Horse', followed by lunch at the Styl & Interier Cafe. A little garden cafe with a relaxing atmosphere. You'd never know a busy traffic area was outside its entrance. Re-energized, we looked for more street art on our way 'home'.
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  • Day 4 - More Street Art

    May 31, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    New Town 'wins' for having some of the most eclectic street art. Here are a few more examples, starting with 'Slight Uncertainty' by Michel Trpak: sculptures of a man & a woman hanging from umbrellas suspended from overhead cables. Apparently, meant to depict the working class in economic crisis. Note the huge mushrooms on the wall behind him and the huge insect on the wall of the building behind her. Hmmmm, whatever were the artists thinking?????

    Bugs on walls. Huh???? P.S. Diane reminded me that Kafka was into insects in a big way!

    Funky street chairs. 👍
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  • Day 4 - These are for YOU, Chris!

    May 31, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ 🌧 22 °C

    You know how you luuuuvvvv your kitchen appliances? Here's one to add to your list. Pictures taken at Styl & Interier Garden Cafe today.

  • Day 4 - New Town Here We Come!

    May 31, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our priorities today were exploring New Town, enjoying cafe time, watching the Roma parade in Wenceslas Square, discovering street art & visiting the Mucha Museum. Time & energy permitting we might go to Vsehrad (the historical park & cemetery).

    We opted for breakfast at Cafe Louvre where Einstein, Franz Kafka and other well-known public figures were said to frequent. The cafe's been around since 1902 and hosts local actors at a closed event each month. Our meal was very good & the service, the best yet.

    After enjoying a great fortifier for the day, we made our way to the square, seeing the Memorial of the Velvet Revolution, David Cerny's Metalmorphosis (42 moving layers that continously deconstruct and reconstruct Franz Kafka's head), the Cubist lamp post (reputed to be the only one in the world), and the Franciscan Garden (a delightful reprieve from concrete and crowds). Posed in front of the 'Wild Girls/Divozenky' sculpture by Josef Klimes'.

    At one exit from the gardens was a piece of the Berlin Wall, complete with barbed wire & an old German-made car (Trabant I'd guess) sitting angled on top of the break (my interpretation... to depict East Germans' escape from communism).

    On to the square to catch the Roma (Gypsy) parade, held as part of the International Khomoro Festival.
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  • Day 4 - Ending on a High Note

    May 31, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Tonight we attended a second concert, part of the International Prague Spring Festival. This was held in the Smetana Hall at the Municipal Building. It looked and felt much different than it did on our tour with so many people in the room.

    Diane's navigational skills are AWE - full while mine are simply awful. She manoevered us thru the dense crowds there and back in record time without a map! If it had been me, we would have ended up lost, miles away from our destination.

    The concert was world class. It featured the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra and a guest pianist whose fingers moved like lightning across the keys, yet so gracefully it seemed he barely made contact. He used no sheet music to play very complex melodies!

    The conductor was interesting to watch - his physical movements, his smile & his obvious pride in the orchestra's performance. Diane noticed that he singled out those musicians who could not readily be seen by the audience for applause. It led me to wonder things like... How do you learn to be a conductor? Are the conductor's cues to the orchestra a variation of sign language? Are there any famous female conductors?

    I noticed that all the people playing stringed instruments held bows in their right hands. Can a person play the violin well using the bow in their left hand? Could they be part of an orchestra given the seating and symmetry you see when everyone is playing on stage?

    Anther observation was the difference in expressions & body movements of three oboe (?) musicians. The one closest to the audience smiled constantly & bobbed his head wildly as he played. The one in the middle barely moved & had no expression on his face. The 3rd changed the intensity of his facial expressions constantly and his body seemed to meld with his instrument.

    On our way back, I took some pics along Charles Street - here, souvenier shops sell chandeliers and candy that looks like fried eggs. 😯
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  • Day 5 - Czech Museum of Music

    June 1, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I loved this museum & could have stayed there for hours! A very unassuming first impression but a Wow! factor inside every exhibition room. The instruments were staged in categories, e.g. pianos, violins, drums, and so forth.

    The interactive design allowed you to listen to recordings of instruments and to learn something unique about each of them.

    You could opt to play select instruments. That was fun. I loved the feel of the harp's strings & its sound. In contrast, my attempts to play the theremen were a bust. It was difficult to achieve anything remotely melodious.

    If like me, you'd never heard of a theremen before, check out this You Tube video: http://youtu.be/7l9YcewEumw.

    Chris, this link is for you & other Star Trek fans: http://youtu.be/Rhw8lk-DUGU though the original series did not use a theremen. 😊
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  • Day 5 - Naplavka Market & Maya Strana

    June 1, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Today we planned to go to the riverside market, the Czech Museum of Music & explore the 'Little Quarter' neighborhood across the river from where we are staying.

    First up, coffee! The apartment has a French press and some ground coffee but it is barely drinkable for me and not even that for Diane. Cafe Ebel was nearby, thankfully.

    The Naplavka market sold mainly foods - meats, bakery items, fresh veggies & flowers. Took a pic of a mushroom (?) with a most interesting shape & a beautiful flower the Czechs call 'Jirinka'.

    There were lots of people, many with small kids & small dogs. Along the boardwalk, various eating places and tour boats.

    One of the interesting vendors was a fellow who sold wine drawn from spigots at the back of his van. For serious beer drinkers, there was Tankove Pivo, roughly translated as tanks of beer. And there were tanks!

    It was hot-hot-hot and manoevering through the crowds was exhausting!
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  • Day 5 - Kampa Island Park

    June 1, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We decided to head to Kampa for lunch and a look-see. Along the way, checked out the Lennon Wall. I read somewhere that it's the only place in the city where grafitti is legal but we've seen this type of street art all over the place. That said, Lennon's Wall has taken on a special significance to people desiring independence & freedom.

    Lovers Bridge used to be covered with locks that declared people's love for one another. However the city removes the locks regularly to protect the integrity of the bridge. Now the gnome-like fellow is on his own.

    More cool street art! David Cerny's 'Babies' are larger than life and are said to have barcode faces. Very unusual as are all of his creations.

    And more... The yellow penguins by The Cracking Art Group are made of recycled plastic bottles taken from landfill sites. They are marching in protest of what is happening to their Antarctic home due to global warming and environmental destruction.

    We chose the Sovovy restaurant by happenstance. It was riverside, the food was good and the views, spectacular! It was so relaxing to watch people enjoying the day in paddleboats shaped like cars, geese, and other shapes. Large boats shared the same space and moved through the locks beside us. At times, it was a bit of a traffic jam in the locks and in the open channel.

    Diane struck up a conversation with a very nice couple who joined us at our table. We discovered it's a very small world. They live in Calgary and the lady grew up near Diane's son-in-law's home town in Siberia. She was very passionate about astrology and healing waters.

    We headed home and have had a lazy evening. Tomorrow, we're going to Cesky Krumlov in southern Bohemia, a 3-hour bus trip each way. Need to be up especially early to tram it over to the main bus station. 💤💤
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  • Day 6 - Cesky Krumlov

    June 2, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Today we hopped a Regiobus to Cesky Krumlov, an 8:00 a.m. departure and roughly a 3-hour drive from Prague. We had booked tickets online for an English-speaking tour of the castle and otherwise planned to see the Marionette and Moldovite museums, wander the streets and enjoy the atmosphere.

    Once we arrived, we decided to have lunch/supper at the Ruze Hotel. We had their Panaramic Terrace largely to ourselves. We both chose duck with red cabbage and two types of sliced dumplings, and at the waiter's suggestion, a Czech garlic soup. Everything was melt-in-your-mouth goodness, and the garlic soup, an especially pleasant surprise.

    The view was stunning! The terrace was just above the river and we looked directly onto a green, lush hilly park. Imagine sunshine, blue skies, birds singing and the gentle sounds of water flowing. It felt like time had stood still.

    After lunch, we wandered the streets until we found the Moldovite Museum. Moldavite is a meteor-formed precious stone, created only under certain conditions. We watched a short video and speed-viewed the museum displays; then walked up stairs and uphill to the castle for our tour.

    The guide was excellent! We learned the castle's history and some interesting facts about its Rococo style. I was particularly impressed by three things - the chapel, the Masquerade Hall (http://images.app.goo.gl/dr7rwpkhC2XSazhx8) and a porcelain chandelier with ornate flowers in an oriental design.

    Diane opted to people-watch and enjoy the views while I trekked up to check out the revolving theatre (http://www.ckrumlov.info/docs/en/atr753.xml) and the Royal Gardens.

    We passed on the Marionette Museum in favor of a sit-down break in the shade (27 degrees in direct sun on hot pavement was wearing). Went back to the Ruze and the Ukrainian mother/son working there remembered us from lunch. Ice cream for Diane and a yummy apple strudel for me.

    Back to the bus stop and a comfy trip back to Prague.

    From my perspective, the day flew by and it was hard to believe we'd been in Cesky Krumlov for seven hours and on buses for another six hours. It was simply not enough time to explore the town at a relaxing pace. I'd recommend an overnight stay there.

    My bottom-line impressions of Cesky Krumlov? From a distance, stunningly beautiful. Close-up, not so much.The cobbled streets are lined with souvenier shops & restaurants. Uber crowds. Very touristy. Not at all the charming fairy-tale Bohemian town I had imagined when reading about it.

    That said, I would definitely recommend it as a destination to others. I remember what a tour guide constantly mentioned when I was in Greece, 'If you don't see what you expect, change your expectations'. Great advice.
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  • Day 7 - Jewish Town & Vsyhrad

    June 3, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We'll be out the door at 7 this morning to walk Charles Bridge before it becomes mega-crowded. After that, the priorities are a latte for Diane and a cappucino for me.

    We'll tour more of Josefov and catch a tram south to Vsyhrad.

    It's forecast to be 28 today so sunscreen is a must.

    Tonight we'll attend a smaller concert at the Mirror Chapel in the Klementium after meeting a friend of Diane's son-in-law.

    I feel so very fortunate to be in able to take trips like this! Diane's presence, observations, blog and pictures, have enriched my experience beyond measure.
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