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EDuBu
EDuBu

EDuBu

traveled in 34 countries Read more🇺🇸United States
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  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The Old Bridge & Stadttor Gate
    1Local bier2Lovely houses across the Neckar RiverThe Old Bridge & Stadttor Gate1Neckar River1Becker RiverBuilding with the flag is one of the many Fraternities of the UniversityLock for the river2Heidelberg PalaceOld storage entrance for one of the old town buildings.Statue on the side of an old town houseBrunnen auf dem KornmarktChurch of the Holy SpiritChurch of the Holy Spirit SteepleJesuitenkirche1Holocaust Memorial on grounds of destroyed Synagogue1Hops chandelier at a local brew pub1Christmas store with cookoo clocks.1Spinning Christmas center pieceHeidelberg old town and fortressAnother fortress along the Neckar river1Tourist bait outside of the Tourist information center.

    Heidleberg, Germany

    May 27, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    The romantic town of Heidelberg was our first stop into Germany. It's odd to think with all the traveling we've done that we are only now stepping into Bavaria.

    Primarily, Heidelberg is a University town. Its population of 160K is said to be 1/4 students. This is Germany's oldest University. It has also produced a fairly large IT industry here. SAP is headquartered only 15 minutes from here. The university costs only €186.35 for Germans and foreigners need only spend €1,500 a semester.
    https://www.uni-heidelberg.de/en/study/manageme…

    Heidelberg' Neckar river divides the hilly city into two making for breathtaking views from either side. It's a fun place to visit and stay in one of their many brew pubs.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Veal escalope (breaded cutlet) and spaetzle (pasta) and Sauerkraut with 6 meats (bottom)
    2This was technically in Lorraine. Caesar salad and a country roasted chicken (coq).1Couple locally brewed beers and a beautiful pub (called a Bierestub here) mural.2Poulet Sauce Riesling, Crème et Champignons (top) & le Baeckeoffe au Vin d’Alsace (bottom)2Sauerkraut with perch (top) & Sauerkraut with Ham shank (bottom). Also a RieslingCoffee and a beignet2Seasonal white asparagus and ham (top) and pork shank and sauerkraut (bottom)1Strawberry tarte3"Ribeauville salad" it came with a meatloaf of fish, duck and smoked salmon (left).2Burger d'Alsace (bottom) and sauerkraut with ham, sausage and bacon.

    Cuisine d'Alsace France

    May 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Sauerkraut, Sauerkraut, & more Sauerkraut. Es tres bonn!

    Alsacien cuisine is very different from other French cuisine we've had. While Paris and southern France had the stereotypical small portions and lots of duck. Alsace has heaping portions, sausage, pork shank and yes sauerkraut. Sauerkraut was a compliment to almost every dish.

    In addition, Alsace has their own take on pizza called Tarte Flambée. We never actually tried it, but they are rectangular and super thin crust. They look good, but we were never really feeling the pizza.

    Surprisingly we also came to Alsace expecting wine, but were instead presented with beer. There were a lot of local brewers. The most notable was Fischer. Their "Tradition" was among our favorite European beers we've had.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    2The Petite Venice district
    Medieval ornate wine barrelsThe Isenheim AltarpieceColmar old townFontaine SchwendiThe Petite Venice1The Petite VeniceCentral PlaceColmar old townColmar old townLes anciens bains municipaux1Maison des Têtes or House of HeadsSt Martin's ChurchColmar old townThe Fishmonger DistrictMaison KernMaison PfisterColmar old townColmar old town

    Colmar, France

    May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Colmar is the 3rd largest "commune" in Alsace, behind Strasbourg and Mulhouse. It's known for having several architectural landmarks, and for being a place of healing for the St. Anthony's fire (now called ergotism).

    At the time, those afflicted with the ailment would pilgrimage to the Monastery of St. Anthony near Colmar. Those afflicted would be placed in front of the "The Isenheim Altarpiece" and asked to pray as scenes of the passion of the Christ and life of saint Anthony's torment by demons were displayed in front of the patients. It was sort of a, "see it could be worse" medicine. The monks did actually apply medicine. Today we know Ergotism is caused by the ingestion of alkaloids. So possibly just removing them from their previous environment did the trick.

    Overall, I think we liked Strasbourg more than Colmar (to compare major Alsacien cities), but it was a nice final stop before moving into Germany.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Massive Stork nestA couple of the fortified castles.There was a lot of pied piper reference in town. Apparently the original story was set a bit north.Tour des Bouchers (Butcher's Tower)3I think this baker has trouble getting foot space at the counterRibeauville' s 3 fortified castles can be seen on the hill.2Our lunch restaurantNotice the Castle on the hill and the Stork on the buildingÉglise de la Providence de RibeauvilléÉglise Saint-GrégoireInside Église Saint-Grégoire

    Ribeauville, France

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The final destination of our French countryside walk and located on the Wine Route, between the vineyards and the mountains, Ribeauvillé is a charming city which has been able to enhance its historical heritage.
    In the Middle Ages, the city was the seat of the Lordship of the Ribeaupierre family.
    The Ribeaupierres built 3 fortified castles, the ruins of which still majestically dominate the city and the surrounding hills. We enjoyed lunch here as the last stop on our wine route for the day before hiking back the six miles to Kayersberg.

    There are also some reports that Ribeauvillé inspired the look of the "small provincial town" of "Beauty and the Beast." However some say it may be Colmar and others Riquewhir, and some just say generic Alsace village.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    4Fortified Church of Hunawhir
    Baby grape vines and the Fortified ChurchJust your average Alsaceien villeFortified Church and grape vines2Fountain and the Fortified Church of Hunawhir2Fortified Church of Hunawhir11Emily and the Fortified Church of Hunawhir

    Hunawhir, France

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Hunawhir was the town directly between our two other destinations (Riquerwhir and Ribeauville). It was not a planned destination, but we couldn't stop taking pictures of its beautiful Fortified Chruch. It's a cute town in its own right, but with few restaurants and cafes, it's wasn't really setup for tourism.

    With a population of 587 one would wonder why Hunaehir would be a good destination. We found it peaceful, and extremely scenic nestled between Ribeauvilleand Riquewhir. There are more grapes then people here as it missed the tourism of the other towns. It does have numerous vineyards and its town chirch is stunning.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Dave and the old gate of Riquerwhir1123

    Riquerwhir, France

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today we decided to hike in the French countryside. We visited 3 "très mignon" (very cute) villages. First was Riquerwhir.

    Known as the gem of the Alsace this tiny medieval town boasts a population of 1100 residents. It has managed to preserve its medical character to this day, showing off its 15-18th century timber houses and the 13th century defensive city gate. Although a bit over touristed today it is certainly a nice stop on the wine route and having a tarte or slice of pie as we know it at the local crepere before trekking to the next town must not be missed.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Chateaux de KayserbergChateaux de KayserbergView from the Chateaux de KayserbergView from the Chateaux de KayserbergView from the Chateaux de KayserbergView from the Chateaux de Kayserberg3

    Kaysersberg, France

    May 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Kayersberg is nestled to the east of the Vosges mountains which is the mountain range responsible for some of the delicious wines of the Alsace. It is German for emperors mountain. Voted best villa in France in 2017 it is easy to see why. The town is quaint and lined with beautiful colored half timber houses and traditional restaurants serving up Alsacian cuisine. It makes a perfect base for exploring the area and Rue d'vin (wine road).Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Le Petite-France district with the Notre Dame de Strasbourg in the background.Notre Dame de StrasbourgLe Petite France district2Le Canard de Strasbourg1Le Petite France districtLe Petite France districtLe Petite France districtLe Petite France districtLe Petite France districtLe Petite France districtLe Musée AlsacienPlaza outside Notre DameLe Petite France district2Le Petite France district

    Strasbourg, France

    May 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Strasbourg is the capital of the Territorial collectivity of Alsace. The collectivity is a one of 3 that make up the French Region (kind of like a French "state") of "Grand Est". It shares the almost 50% of its border with Germany and that is very apparent from the cuisine. We were taken a back when we got here and were served heaping piles of Sauerkraut, with sausage. This is not you petite déjeuner from Paris or southern France. More on the food later though.

    Strasbourg, like most of the region is known for half timber houses in its old town. The architecture is really stunning in this town. It's relatively light on tourists except for local French and a few German. In fact, it was not uncommon for us to have to scramble with bad French as locals spoke less English here than in most places in Europe we encountered.

    Strasbourg is also known for a small series of canals in its "Le Petite France" district. The canals are lined with half timber houses and tax collection defensive towers from back in the day.

    It's a beautiful city, and one of our favorites thus far.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    In front of Vahl-erbsing of Roch graves
    Countryside of LorraineFarmlands in LorraineFalquemontOverlooking FalquemontPontpierrePontpierre2Storks - bird of the Grand Est region. We saw 5 that dayBistroffBistroffZimmingRoch family gravestone in Vahl-ErbsingGreen dot is where Emily's french ancestors hail fromZoomed in versionDriving through Pontpierre

    Emily's French heritage

    May 16, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Emily's grandmother on her mother's side hails from eastern France. Well not her specifically but her grandmother's grandparents came from France to America. They came from tiny villages between Metz and Strasbourg in the rural French countryside. The predominant occupation for most were farmers. They like many during the 19th century immigrated to America due to the rural revolutions at the time. Her ancestors came from the town's of Vahl-Erbsing, Pontpierre, Zimming, Bistroff, and Faulquemont. There is not much there but we snapped a few photos of the area and towns to share. We looked for ancestors grave stones in the town's and although we could not find any likely being about 50 years too far back. We did however find many of our ancestors samr last names, and in one town Vahl-Erbsing half the cemetery was dedicated to the Roch family, Emilys grandmother's paternal line. There were indeed distant cousins underfoot. All in all it was a pleasant drive through the countryside which looked very much like northern New York. It gave us a nice perspective of French villages outside of the more touristed locations we sometimes visit.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023

    Reims, France

    May 15, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We're back in Western Euope! We began this leg by flying into Paris, and renting a car. The small city of Reims France makes an excellent day trip or short stay while making your way to the eastern edge of France.

    The most noteworthy attraction being the Reims Cathedral which is stunning from the outside but also has some of the more beautiful stained glass works in church's we have seen. A UNESCO World Heritage site built in 1211 it did not disappoint. Prior to this it was the coronation spot for all the Kings of France. Reims was a quite city full of locals lacking the hustle and bustle which makes it a more peaceful location to base yourself in the northern Champagne region.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Khinkali soup dumblings. These are a signature of Georgian cuisine.
    Khinkali and "Amber wine." It doesn't get any more Georgian than that.Georgian "Amber wine" and Veal Stew in an earthen ware clay dishGeorgian sausage called "Megrelian Kupati"Inside of the Megrelian Kupati. It wasn't ground meat, but chopped and stuffed into a casing."Georgian salad" with fresh cucumber, tomato & onions with a walnut sprinkle. It was really good.Khinkali with potatoe a Veal dish and mint lemonadeOdjakhuri with Veal1These are "Pkhali". A traditional Georgia food made of a ground walnut paste. See comment.Georgian wine tastingSoup-Kharcho - absolutely amazing and full of flavorLobiani (Bean Pie) kind of like Naan filled with beanOn the right is Bumble Coffee. OJ with espresso served over ice. A common drink in Eastern Europe?Khinkali again. So good! These were a northern style so they were more herbed meat.Roasted lamb ribs in wine with a cheese cabbage sideMountain tea and a shot of Chacha (georgian grape liquor)Beets in Tkemali (Alucha Plum sauce) on top with bread wine and waterChikhirtma soup (chicken, yolk, garlic, vinegar, coriander)Khashlama (boiled beef, coriander and cilantro)

    Food of Georgia

    May 14, 2023 in Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The food of Georgia was outstanding and perhaps the most flavorful of all countries on our trip. Maybe the remnants of the silk road spice trade are kicking in but the country certainly did not disappoint. They had a variety of different types of foods from salads to soups to dumplings and meat dishes. Mushrooms are very prevalent here as is breads and cheeses.

    And of course don't forget the dumplings or Khinkali which are absolutely NOT to be eaten with a knife and fork. You flip them on their tails take a small bite and drain the soup out of the doling then eat it like a lollipop. Your not supposed to eat the knubs that you hold onto you simply discard them on the plate. These are usually filled with Veal or pork or mushrooms or potatoe or cheese. They are delicious.

    Popular drinks in Georgia are Chacha or a liquor made from distilled grapes. And of course let's not forget the famous Georgia wine. Dave and I went to a tasting and enjoyed 3 wines from each of Georgians main wine producing areas. The amber or orange wine was delicious as was our red wines. They are traditionally made in a Georgian clay pot where they throw the entire grapes vine and all into the pot and then burry it in the ground for fermentation. This causes the sugar to be eaten up completely yielding mostly dry and some semi dry wines with strong earthy notes. Red wine or black wine as they call it is heavy to medium bodied with tannins very dry or semi sweet. White and amber wine is medium bodied and dry to semi sweet as well. We have not had a bad wine yet here.

    While we are a lot of red meat, there were also se amazing vegan dishes. Many restaurants had a Georgian salad. It has not lettuce, but fresh tomato, cucumber, and onion and is topped with ground walnuts. One of the most interesting dishes we had was Mkhali. It's ground walnut and either beet or spinach, served cold in a Patty shape. Also, on one of our last days we ordered Beets in Tkemali, a local plum sauce as an app and it stole the shoe. Topped with cilantro, it was a very unique way to eat beets.

    For culinary lovers this country cannot be missed. It yielded some of the most unique flavor profiles we have had.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    The confluence of the Kuna River and the Aragvi River in the middle of the city.
    2UNESCO: Svetitskhoveli CathedralSvetitskhoveli CathedralSvetitskhoveli CathedralSvetitskhoveli Cathedral: small model of Jerusalems Holy SpeculatureSvetitskhoveli CathedralSvetitskhoveli CathedralBack of Svetitskhoveli Cathedral1Svetitskhoveli Cathedral: funny story of this famous painting see postSvetitskhoveli CathedralMany persimmon trees that line the streets4Mtskheta store front in city center1Beautiful rosesMtskheta Antioch orthodox churchRose bushes in front of Mtskheta AntiochMtskheta AntiochView of the rover from Mtskheta which is unusually low right nowBack streets of MtskhetaJvari monestary

    Mtskheta, Georgia

    May 13, 2023 in Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Mtskheta is a town in Grorgia at the confluence of the Kura and Aragvi rivers, just northwest of Tbilisi by a 30 minute ride. One of the oldest settlements of Transcaucasia, Mtskheta was the capital of Georgia from the 2nd to 5th century AD. It is home to the UNESCO  Cathedral of Sveti-Tskhoveli, the traditional burial place for the kings of Georgia, founded in the 4th century and reconstructed in the 15th and 18th centuries; the Samtavro convent; and the Dzhvari Church. Mtskheta’s religious buildings were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1994. We visited this former capital city and enjoyed walking through the town, and seeing the famous churches as well as traveling to the Jvari monestary overlooking the town on the hill. The river kura was unusually low and we could see the remnants of an old Roman Bridge from the 1st century AD used to cross the river. Typically the bridge is far below water . The roses were also in bloom which was a treat. The Cathedral of Sveti-Tskhovel has a famous Georgian painting of St Nina. St Nina came from Kappadokia in Central Turkey on a pilgrimage to pray for Jesus at this church. She is cited as bringing Christanity to Georgia as the majority of the country close to 85% is Christian Orthodox. There is a running joke among Georgians that a girl from Turkey (home of Islam) came to the Caucassian mountains to prey for a Jewish prophet (Jesus) and converted the entire nation of Georgia to Christianity. Georgia was formerly pagan before that in ancient times. This photo at the church is a wide spread image found in other church's across Georgia as well as in people's homes. Here is a better rendering of the image: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sabinin._G…Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Gergeti Trinity church in background
    Gergeti Trinity Church & City of KazbegiHotel rooms foe coffee and a viewBeautiful view from the valley1Watching fog roll inThick fog came quick1Hotel patronGergeti Trinity ChurchCity of Kazbegi2The pups appreciated our treats and leftover chicken kebab wrap3These mothers were happy to get a little extra this afternoonGergeti Trinity Church2Mountain Emily1Gergeti Trinity ChurchGergeti Trinity Church4Taking a minute to enjoy the beauty.2Mount Kazbek is hiding behind the clouds at 16,500 ftKazbegi1

    Mt Kazbegi, Georgia

    May 12, 2023 in Georgia ⋅ 🌫 7 °C

    Gergeti Trinity Church is a popular name for the Holy Trinity Church near the village of Stepantsminda in Georgia. The church is at an elevation of 7120 feet sitting under Mount Kazbek. Just 6 miles from the Russian border this is a very peaceful refuge for religious travelers looking g to do the 90 minute trek up the mountain to the famous chirch from the 14th century. This indeed is a beautiful part of Georgia not to be missed. Apparently the road to Russia is lined with 18wheelers in the hundreds which we passed. Many have to wait 3 weeks to cross the border from Georgia to Russia with their goods. We saw over 100 pulled over on the high mountain roads waiting their turn. In the nearby village of Stepantsminda sit many hotels and rooms for hikers to rent. We stopped at the 5 star hotel Rooms for a coffee and a scenic view. It was pleasant to watch the thick smog roll down from the mountains and cover the base of the valley.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1Ananuri fortress
    Ananuri fortressAnanuri fortressAnanuri fortress2View from out drive in northern GrorgiaMany of the sulfur springs in GeorgiaGeorgia friendship monument with Russia2Dam in northern Georgia. Made in Soviet times. They flooded 3 towns. Citizens unhappy ...Lake near Tblisi. Sailing team uses it1Many sheep herds along with some donkeys, goats and a few yellow stray dogs pretending to be sheep2Georgian traffic jam2Chronicals of GeorgiaChronicals of Georgia2Out and about in downtown TblisiMany outdoor markets in TblisiCity center TblisiOne of many parks in Tblisi1Beautiful parksCity center and old town Tblisi1The high five king in TblisiHoly Trinity church of Tblisi

    Georgia ...the country

    May 10, 2023 in Georgia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    First off, Georgians do NOT call their country Georgia. This explains a lot as it's a difficult place to Google. You're more likely to get results about Atlanta than Tbilisi. Locals call their country "Sakartvelo."

    It first appeared on a Italian map with the name Georgia in 1320 AD. How Georgia got it's western name has a few legends. One such is that the Persians, impressed with their fierce fighting called it, Gorğān, or land of the wolves. It could also be related to St. George being their patron saint. Although, George, being their most popular name, is locally pronounced as Gorgi (both Gs sounds more like a J).

    It actually goes by a few names. Georgia was invaded by both the Ottoman and Persians (multiple times) and as such many Muslims still refer to it by it's name from that time which is Gurjistan.

    Georgia is a beautiful country. Nestled between the upper and lower Caucasus mountains it is protected by both cold Siberian weather and warm Middle Eastern deserts. This leaves Georgia with a comfortable and moderate climate. The country is also known for hot springs, but very sulfury ones. One such spring can be seen in our pictures.

    It's a beautiful country and we've already talked about coming back someday.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Nikoloz Baratashvili Bridge and Holy Trinity Cathedral
    Holy Trinity Cathedral of TbilisiAnchiskhati Basilica and art vendorTbilisi street2Tbilisi corner cafeShopping alley1Juice bar cafeMetekhi St. Virgin Church and Kura river1Street artTbilisi Aerial TramwayKura River and the Bridge of PeaceNarikala Fortress and hills surrounding TbilisiMother of Georgia statue5Taking the Tbilisi Cable car. Enjoy the music.2Metekhi St. Virgin Church and cliffs over the Kura River3Street art2Rug vendor and Turkish mannequin1Holy Trinity Cathedral as surrounding hillsMonument of St. George in Liberty Square1Parliament building at nightOld Clock Tower2Tbilisi Old Clock at Noon

    Tbilisi, Georgia

    May 9, 2023 in Georgia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    მოგესალმებით თბილისიდან, საქართველოდან or Hello from Tbilisi, Georgia!

    Tbilsi was one of Emily's favorite cities on our trip and it was easy to see why. The city was begging to be photographed and had a beautiful mix of old Renaissance buildings, beautiful parks along every few blocks, outdoor cafes, comical statues, and a dusting of old resisential buildings and old city walls. The city felt vibrant and youthful yet had an old world charm and warmth that was uniquely Georgian. Many people were out and about during the day, some with wagons selling fresh produce door to door, others sitting at cafes enjoying coffee and watching the world pass by.

    This city contained the highest percentage of "bamboushkas" or elderly women that we have seen. This contributed to a strong sense of community that was felt while we were here. There is also a large stray dog population that are cared for by the people of Georgia including food, shots and spay/neuter. The tagged dogs (colorful tag on their ear) were adorable and completely harmless. Some would even roll over to expose their belly as you approached. Some lay asleep and others sat with you at cafes hoping for a scrap or two.

    Georgia is among one of the safest countries in the world and it truly felt that way while we were here in Tblisi. Regardless of the time of day or night it was extremely safe (more so feeling than in western europe), and people were welcoming. This truly is a beautiful green city not to be missed.    Read more

    See translation
  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    2Turkish Meze
    Mined lamb and beef with eggplant1Lokum (Turkish Delights) and Baklava2Mastik Gum Coffee. I'm still not exactly sure what this was.Street vendors with Corn and Chestnuts were all over Istanbul2Lentil soup, couscous, salad, stuffed grape leaves, and traditional lamb in pot1Lamb in clay pot. They heat the food in a pot, then break the pot to get the food out.Chicken wings and a vege casserole1Left is pomegranate/grapefruit right is pomegranite/orange pressed juice1Pizza and Turkish Pizza... actually called Pide2Cave restaurant. Most restaurants in Goreme were inside caves1Turkish Ravioli with yogurt sauce1Almond stuffed Artichoke hearts1Salad with pomegranate seeds, walnuts and gorgonzola. Crispy Tenderloin with chips2Grilled calamari2See, we do eat healthy sometimes4This was one of our best meals. It was a cafeteria style place, which is more traditional Turkish.1Vege Casserole (top) and Chicken in pepper sauce (bottom)1Sea Bass over mashed potato2Prawn cocktail1A drink and a view.

    Food of Türkiye

    May 7, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Turkish food is delicious and also comes in a lot of variety. Doner (meat wraps/pitas) are common street and cheap food throughout the country. Shish kebabs are also very common featuring chicken beef or lamb. Pide which looks and tastes similar to a long oval thin crust pizza is also a norm. Along with regular pizza. For those interested in lighter fare, salads are plentiful featuring tomatoes and cucumber, stuffed grape leaves, and beans salads as well. Seafood specially sea bream, sea bass, shrimp, and calamari are the most common. Soups are also common usually lentil or bean based. All food is very fresh and spiced well. One thing not to forget to try is turkish delights a sweet rolled dessert or the turkish coffee.Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
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    Ancient Side East, Turkey

    May 7, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a bit of a surprise today. We already made a post about Ancient Side. However we went for a walk east of the tourist area and stumbled upon an amazing 2nd half of the ancient city. It was amazing. This half has maybe 2 plaques, few roads, a lot of thick brush and free access. You can see as much as your feet are willing to explore.

    Walking around it felt like you were really discovering things that few tourist venture out to see. We even saw one lady sitting on what may have been the ruins of an old aqueduct eating some ice cream.

    We did see some teams of archeologists in the general area. It seems like they have a ton of structures to investigate and they're working on them as quickly as they can. If we came back in ~15 years, I imagine this area will look totally different. There will probably be a lot more buildings uncovered, and ticket booths blocking all we saw. Today we enjoyed our free access.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
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    Ancient Side, Turkey

    May 5, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Side (pronounced Cid-eh) was originally settled by the Greek in the 7th century BC. Over time, these Greek settlers became assimilated with local populations and lost the Greek language. The local language was a derivative of "Luwian" and is lost to time. However, we do know that Side was their word for "Pomegranate." Thus Side is named after the seedy red fruit.

    Side was conquered by Persians, Macedonians, Ptolemaians, Seleucids, then gained independence before falling to the Romans. While under the rule of the Macedonians and Alexander the Great, many megalithic structures were constructed between the 3rd and 2nd centuries. Side was home to a great Amphitheater, a Monumental Fountain, and a Temple of Athena. Those are ones that are still partially standing today.

    Side was totally abandoned by the 10th century AD as residents moved to the nearby city of Antalya. The ruins became known as "Old Antalya" by the locals. It wasn't until 1895 that Turkish refuges from Crete relocated here when Greece annexed it. They settled in the ruins as refugees.

    Today Side is a vibrant beach town and very active archeological site. As more and more restaurants and boutique hotels popup, they discover more and more ruins as foundations are dug. Many buildings are constructed on some type of stilts over the ruins with thick plexiglass decks overlooking the ruins.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
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    Side public beachDock in the bayRestaurants at nightRestaurants in the early morning1Sun anyone?2ArrrrrrghSide bay and some ancient wall in the water.Side bayDockMulti level rug shop, with ruins behind.Zoom out of the big rug market2Side swing... for the InstagramsSide sunsetSide baySee through restaurant patio showing ruins and ancient columns.Side beach1Walk through of Side. It's hard to communicate how close the modern and ancient are. Hope this helps

    Side, Türkiye

    May 2, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Side (pronounced Cid-eh) feels like a truly unique town at this point of time. It is a very modern feeling resort town (one of the most modern we've seen anywhere), but also brimming with ancient Roman ruins. These two features are very much in conflict. New restaurants and boutique hotels are in the process of being built, but are halted as their foundations expose new ruins. The touristy beachfront Side is largely built on top of stilts as the new buildings are suspended over the ruins from 2,000+ years ago hang below. These ruins are exposed by glass bottom outdoor patios for restaurants.

    We'll talk more about ancient Side soon, but for Modern Side it's a beautiful beach town. It's a peninsula with a very shallow bay. Walking out 50 yards still yields only waist high water. Walking west from the "old town" offers a long board walk with beach chairs and vendors. Also fresh squeezed Pomegranate juice for a couple €. Walking west along the board walk ends at a huge Roman forum called Devlet Agorası. In a few years, I could see it being a ticketed museum, but today you can just around it without supervision.

    Side is an amazing confluence of new and ancient.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Uchisar Castle
    Uchisar Castle in distance looking westOne of many rock homesView over Uchisar countryside looking eastOne of the main mosques and ruins below1Dave on top of Uchisar castleView on castle looking down into townUchisar castleTown of Uchisar from castle2View looking northeast3Missed selfie opportunity - whoops!Main entrance to uchisar castle. Shows exposed rooms where part of the castle eroded away.View looking northeastView looking northeastWelcome to UchisarRuinsGoodbye now

    Uçhisar, Turkey

    April 29, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Uçhisar was our neighboring village from Goreme an old village sits in a cone shape around Uchisar Castle. Uçhisar once made a living from agriculture but now depends entirely on tourism, with many of its fine old stone houses turned into boutique hotels.

    Uçhisar means 'Outer Citadel' in Turkish and the one attraction to not be missed is the castle itself. It once held up to 1000 inhabitants in its hay day. Although it is unclear when it was built it was first mentioned in the 14th century by the Ottomans. Its thought to have been around since the 7th century as inhabitants first carved homes into this rock and continued to expand over time. It is also the highest peak in the Cappadocia region. Dave and I stormed the castle before trekking the hour back to Goreme for a well deserved rest.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    3This tunnel to the burial area was just above waste high.
    Remember if building a massive underground city... leave structural supports.2This downward staircase went down about 50 meters and was very narrow and had a low ceiling.StaircaseHallway1Dave in Derinkuyu2Ventilation shaftThese circular doors were used to close off certain areas by rolling into hallways.Food storage area.Food storage areaModern bridge2Bricked off area.Cruciform church"Ancient" electrical box1Descent down the big stair caseComing out of the "Graves"

    Underground City, Derinkuyu, Turkey

    April 29, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    What was once the ancient city of Elengubu, is now known today as Derinkuyu. It once held up to 20,000 inhabitants at one time and is the largest underground city in the world. It plunges to a depth of 85 meters below Cappadocia and has 18 levels of tunnels. The city was in consistent use for thousands of years, presumed originating from the Phrygians to the Persians and finally to the Christians of the Byzantine Era. It was then abandoned in the 1920s by the Cappadocian Greeks fleeing the Greco-Roman Turkish war. The city itself spans many square miles containing kitchens, cattle rooms, schools, storage rooms, church's, graves, ventilation shafts etc. it's thought that more than 200 small, separate underground cities that have been discovered in the area may be connected to these tunnels, creating a massive subterranean network.
    Derinkuyu was "rediscovered" in 1963 by a local who kept losing his chickens. While he was renovating his home, the chickens would disappear into a small crevasses during remodeling never to be seen again. After some time the owner grew suspicious and did some digging and found one of many entrances to the city. It was the first of more than 500 entrances found within homes in the area leading to the subterrestrial city of Derinkuyu.

    The shear depth of the city is astounding and after exploring it in the morning hours it was apparent how easy one could get lost. The staircases kept leading down to deeper and deeper levels some taking 5 minutes to traverse. It was an absolute marvel in engineering at the time as well as an unforgettable experience for the both of us.

    One awe inspiring fact about this massive underground city is that no one has ever found organic material inside to do carbon dating. So the exact age is unknown. They only know some civilizations that used it and some theorized to have used it. There is a documentary on Netflix that talks about Derinkuyu that we enjoyed called, Ancient Apocalypse. We recommend it! I want to caveat that recommendation by saying I think the hosts premise is unsupported. He doesn't really give any evidence of his thesis. Regardless, he does give you a lot of interesting information, about a lot of archeological sites you may have never heard of, including Derinkuyu. It's a very interesting watch regardless. I just haven't drank the Kool-Aid he's selling.

    Ancient Apocalypse on Netflix
    https://www.netflix.com/us/title/81211003?s=a&a…

    If you'd like to read about Derinkuyu, this article has some good info, including a map showing that we were only in a small part (yellow highlighted area). Maybe 1/4 of the whole city.
    https://cappadocia4u.com/derinkuyu-underground-…    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Perdy aint it?
    Actual sunriseGood examples of "fairy chimneys" with their "cap stone."Street near an antique storeLocal pup having morning coffee with us.Restaurant built into a fairy chimneyHorse stable and a fairy chimney with parts of the habitat exposed.GöremeHotel built into the hillsField with fairy chimneysDowntown Göreme. In parts you'd never know you were in an ancient cave community.Just walking next to fairy chimneysBit of a brag, we got lucky and our hotel upgraded us to the Honeymoon cave.Alley with fairy chimneys.More cave dwellingsChimneys and cavesGoreme from the surrounding hills.2We were quite entertained by a couple of kittens at a local cafe / wine bar.

    Göreme, Turkey

    April 27, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Göreme (apparently pronounced Gor-eh-may) is a big tourist destination. Known for "fairy chimneys" and Hot Air Balloons.

    Fairy Chimneys are really interesting. The whole Capadocia (also, pronounced Cap-a-dok (sort of like "dork" with no r) -ee-ah) region was covered with stories of volcanic ash. Certain sections of this ash layer developed a harder top. Think of dirt on top of a snow like, it stops the rest of the snow from melting as fast. These hard caps acted as umbrellas from rain protecting the ash below from being eroded. As we said in a previous post, many ancient humans created multi floor habitats out of fairy chimneys.

    Unfortunately for us, it was raining for our entire stay, so hot air balloons were not cleared for launch. So we missed out on that spectacle. I encourage you to Google "hot air balloons Capadocia" as it's a beautiful sight.

    Some unofficial things Göreme is known for: stray dogs and sunrises. On one of our few good mornings we got to see a sunrise over the fair chimneys (seen in the cover photo). Also seen in that photo is a stray dog. We saw this a little in Istanbul too. All the stray dogs are literally one breed. They all have a white (or dirty white) body with a black nose and ears. They are super docile and friendly. They love to lounge around on the sidewalk. I was a little intimidated with stories of stray dogs in eastern Europe, but these Turkish dogs are the most harmless things I have ever seen. More sloth than a dog.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Göreme Open Air Museum
    Göreme Open Air MuseumGöreme Open Air MuseumGöreme Open Air MuseumStairs leading up to cave dwellings and a church1Cave with a dining table1Valley across from the open air museum with more cavesEroded cave with exposed roomsMore of the adjacent valley1Parking lot with more cavesCave with a support pillarChristian church in a caveThe "Dark Chruch"... we were not allowed to take pictures inside.Another dining table with a bowl carved into the middle.Cave with what looks like a ladder.Göreme Open Air Museum1Another table, but this one has a depiction of the last supper.1LocalSome exposed caves along the road to the museum.1One of the better decorated cave churches. This picture was "snuck in"

    Göreme Open Air Museum, Turkey

    April 26, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The open air museum a UNESCO site since 1984 is the crown jewel of the Cappadocia area. This area boasts over 600 churchs mostly dating from 11th and 12th century carved into the rock caves all over the region.

    But to back up a little, thousands of years ago, nearby Mount Erciyes volcano erupted. This volcanoes is in Kayseri 45 minutes from Goreme. Ash and lava fell across the landscape and hardened to form tuff rock. Over centuries wind and rain erosion slowly moulded "fairy chimneys" that we see today.

    It didn’t take centuries for locals to realise they could carve into rocks and soon turned them into houses and churches. They had been doing it since the 3rd century Roman times, although most of the church's and frescos date from the 12th century. During the Ottoman times these church's were converted to the pigeon homes and unfortunately some of the frescos were destroyed. Today this is the main tourism destination of Cappadocia.

    One really cool feature of the caves here are many of them had long dining tables carved out of the rock. It can be seen in some of the pictures. They carved a 15" or so table out of the rock with benches on either side. They must have had huge families.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Taksim Mosque
    A dock in the "Golden Horn"1The Fatih district, or where all The tourist attractions are. Taken from the Galata Bridge.Grand Bazaar (uncovered area)1Beyoğlu district, where our AirBnB was.Trendy İstiklal street in the Beyoğlu districtGalata Tower2Grand Bazaar (covered area)Grand Bazaar (uncovered area)Entrance to the Grand BazaarNuruosmaniye Mosque1North side of Fatih DistrictTopkapı Müzesi & the wall surrounding Gülhane ParkYeni (New) MosqueTower of Justice at Topkapi Palace1Bosphorus StraightTypical Beyoğlu district alley way1Gülhane Park2Mischief being managed1Yeni Mosque at night

    Istanbul, Türkiye

    April 24, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    If you haven't heard, it's the new Constantinople.

    I feel like there is little about Istanbul I could say that isn't known. It straddles the Bosporus strait, making the city in both Europe and Asia. It is the former capital of the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) Empire. It is also the 15th most populous city in the world.

    For those curious, our visit felt very safe. In fact, you feel very insignificant in such a big city. There are people from all countries here both living and visiting. Those with and without head scarfs, though when visiting any of the Grand Mosques women should bring a head scarf to be respectful.

    Our visit coincided with the end of Ramadan and the beginning of the 3 day "after party" named Eid al-Fitr. Eid al-Fitr fell on a weekend, so the touristy part of a city felt like a zoo, especially trying to cross the Galata Bridge. It was legit elbow to elbow foot traffic.

    It was a great place to visit, stepped with history.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    1212

    Blue Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey

    April 24, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    The Blue Mosque is actually an incorrect name for this place of worship. Only western use this name. It's true name is Sultan Ahmed Mosque. From what I've gathered it's not a very historically significant mosque. It was the practice of the Ottomans that the building of the grand Mosque of their reign was funded by their war bounty. Sultan Ahmed did not engage in much war, so instead he used state funds to build his mosque. While this angered many with this, it's hard to argue with the results.

    Westerns call it the blue Mosque based on the color of the minarets and the blue stained glass on the windows. The mosque itself is not overwhelmingly "blue." Still a beautiful mosque to have visited.    Read more

  • Europe 2022 - 2023
    Ethnographic display of flute player
    Ethnographic display of member of Mevlevi OrderThe stage is set.

    Whirling Dervishes, Istanbul, Turkey

    April 22, 2023 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This isn't going to be a very photograph oriented post. We want to observe a Whirling Dervish ceremony today. We were asked to not taste any or video during the ceremony, so out of respect, we did not. They did have a decent exhibit on the ceremony, so we did walk away with a better understanding of this tradition.

    First off, the Whirling Dervish ceremony is not a dance, it's a religious ceremony of the Sufism sect of Islam. Specifically, a subsect of Sufism called Mevlevi Order. Sufism focuses on more mystical religious practice and is practiced by both Sunni and Shia Muslims. This also made our attendance a little awkward as we were basically paying admittance to watch people pray. But hey, tourists gonna do what they gonna do.

    The Mevlevi Order is chiefly inspired by the teachings of the poet Jalāl al-Dīn Muḥammad Rūmī (Rūmī for short). His teachings "insist" that love is central to Islam and emphasised "developing courtesy and mindfulness" (according to Wikipedia). Rūmī also "complained about the fanatic ideas appended into Islam" (according to a pamphlet given to us at the Whirling Dervish Ceremony). He was born in 1207, and I'm no religious scholar, so I don't know what he was referring to way back then.

    The ceremony opened with a musical portion with chanters, drums, a flute, a lute, and a horizontal plucking guitar thingy (I'm also not a music scholar). After that, the Whirling began. To over simplify it, the "performers" whirled about 5 times over the course of the 1 hour ceremony, with a break between each session. They set-up with 4 on the outside, with 1 in the center on a circular stage. Except the last time, where all 5 whirled on the outside. Each "session" signified a different "meditation," for lack of a better word. It was interesting to see.    Read more

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