• Martin on the Camino 2023

Martin on the Camino 2023

A 73-day adventure by Martin on the Camino 2023 Read more
  • Day27: To Mansilla de las Mulas and León

    May 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    First stop for breakfast was 13 km away in Reliegos (pop.231) . Apart from cafe con leche had an interesting piece of toast with some worm like local mushrooms, a cold fried egg grilled courgette and bits of tomato. After that had further 7 km walk to Mansilla de las Mulas where we took a bus to León. This was the advice of Father Don at a previous monastery. Also at bus station was the Ukrainian young woman who had been sleeping in the top bunk above me the previous night. She, like some others there, took the bus as accommodation in the town was full up. Just 30 minutes by bus. Now staying in a very nice hostel with clean cotton bed linen a wide bed, personal light and electrical socket and privacy curtain. Gets 9.4 on the ratings. Will finally get to post Office tomorrow to send a few things to Santiago to make pack lighter.
    The paths today were pretty straight and following a country road through farmland.
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  • Day 28: Second day in León

    May 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    León is a lovely vibrant town full of narrow sidestreets with interesting shops and bustling restaurants and plazas with bars and outside tables. I have a bunk bed in an old building and the room has just 3 bunk beds. From the balcony next to my room the hospitalero was keen to show me the view which looks out onto the plaza with a Gaudi building now a musuem. This morning visited the Cathedral which is spectacular.Read more

  • Day 29: More time in León

    May 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    Another day in León. Swopped bunk for a room as that was all that was available. The room overlooks the square with the Gaudi house now a museum. My room has a balcony enclosed by glass. This is the view from the balcony and you can see the Gaudi building Casa Botines. I went to the museum and there was an interesting series of panels explaining the construction both in Spanish and English. In addition to the house which in its time contained a textile businesson the ground floor and apartments above, there was an exhibition of Picasso works and watercolours from Dali inspired by his reading of Dante's Divine Comedy. In the evening took up an invitation to go to mass at 6 pm in the cathedral and afterwards we had a beer sitting outside in a sunlit plaza. Being too early for a restaurant meal and wanting an early night, bought a convenience meal of seafood paella in small supermarket which I heated in the microwave back in the hostel. And so to bed.Read more

  • Day 30: León to Villar de Mazarife

    May 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I started the day by following the guide book advice by taking a city bus for the first kms to avoid walking " through grim suburbs" to shorten the " otherwise soulless hours" Different terrain here,- in place of wide fields of grain are fields of scub grass and scattered oak trees. After the bus a walk of about 14 km and secured a lower bunk in this village with a population of 360: elevation 874m. Had to put on rain gear quickly when it started to rainon the final stretch but the shower lasted only a few minutes. About to go in for evening meal. Very cold here- in addition to short sleeved merino wool vest, long sleeved shirt and fleece have put on long-slerved merino wool undershirt. The garden has a swimming pool but wisely not filled with water yet. Had communal meal at albergue - I chose lentil soup then fish then an orange for dessert. Bottles of wine on table as well as bread and water. All for 12€. Talking to a woman opposite who makes her money by writing travel articles and a Dutch woman next to me who spoke English sounding like Merril Streep in the film when she was Julia Child.Read more

  • Day 31: To Hospital De Obigo

    May 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    after a good breakfast at the albergue, left at 7:45 for the roughly 15 km walk to next destination. Very straight roads stretch into the distance beside well irrigrated crops of cereal crops . At one point hard to avoid the sprinklers which sprayed water across the path . Then for a time the path followed along side a railway line. Stopped at the first village after 10km for a mid morning break and a coffee. A popular spot saw several familiar faces. Arrived at destination about midday crossing the 13th century bridge one of Spain's oldest Gothic spans. Today only 4 of the 19 arches are original. The English apparently blew up the bridge to stop Napoleon. Have a lower bunk in a very clean room of only two bunks and have a key to the room.Read more

  • Day 32: To Astorga

    May 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    Astorga is a large city, population 11,264. A tourist town with lots of shops selling chocolate and a chocolate museum as has been a centre for chocolate meeting for centuries. Has a 15th- 16th century cathedral and a Bishops Palace designed by Gaudi.Read more

  • Day 33: To Santa Catalina de Somoza

    May 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A steady walk uphill after leaving the town. This village is the only town/village on the Camino named after a female saint. This albergue was built by a Frenchman 9 years ago. Everything is all by donation. There is a communal meal at 7pm and a jam session at 8:30 depending on who's around. There is a ministage with lots of instruments. It's quite cold at the moment late afternoon and have an interesting few days ahead with steep uphill and down. Fraser went over the mountains a few days ago and it was 2 degrees and he had hail. He also said downhill is hard on the knees which is what the guidebook said as well. Almost 7pm and dinner is ready and I've got 5 layers on. Looking forward to a vegan meal.Read more

  • Day 34: To Rabanal del Camino

    May 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Population 74. Staying at the Refugio Gaucelmo, recommended by Fraser, and named after a noted hermit and run by the British Confraternity of St James. There's afternoon tea on the lawn at 4:45 and an evening service at the church opposite with Gregorian chant sung by monks at the adjacent monastery and a pilgrim's service at 9:30. The walk here was about 12 km and gradually uphill, with some of it on loose shale and bedrock. Scenery now different from the Meseta with pine trees, yellow scotch broom and heather. A pleasant afternoon watching BBC Match of the Day here in the garden. There's no WiFi here on purpose but I have enough mobile data. Met Mary and Declan outside the church who had also been to the 7pm service.Read more

  • Day 35: Benedictine Monastery of Monte I

    May 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Have been accepted to stay here for a few days. Benedictine Monastery of Monte Iago at Rabanal. It's connected to a German Benedictine order Have bunk in the guest quarters. Had first meal in the actual monastery. In silence but with classical guitar music playing. Red wine serve with the meal. Food served by the monks and cleared away by the monks. The dining room is quite new- black tables and slate floor overlooking a garden with herbs and grasses. Next meal is dinner at 8:30 which is after Vespers. Currently two monks; one German and one Korean. The other monk who is head cook is still in Madrid after missing his bus. A warm sunny day here.Read more

  • Day 36: Another day in Rabanal

    May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Second day here. For first time on Camino had morning shower and leisurely start to the day . Today is feast day- Ascension Day - so to mark the occasion for lunch had bottles of wine not caraffes and large wine glasses. Large plates of meat for the others and a special meal for me.Read more

  • DAY 37: Final day in Rabanal

    May 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    My last full day at the monastery. Down to just two guests- myself and a Korean man. I was the last guest they accepted as they are closing the guest quarters for a while as the hospitalero is leaving on Saturday for a 10 day break. So making the most of my time here by intending to go to every service. Was at Vespers 7:30 am and communion at 9. I took a short video near the end of yesterday's 9:30 pm pilgrim's service which I will post. At lunch yesterday as guests were an elderly couple from a nearby village. Turns out the gentleman used to be a professional footballer and played for Real Madrid in the 60's.
    Was taking advantage of the early morning light to photograph the entrance to the monastery when at that moment Father Cassian walked out the door.
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  • Day 38: To Foncebaddon

    May 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Left the monastery after the 7:30 morning service and breakfast. A short walk about 6 km to next village, a gradual climb uphill. Scenery here quite different to the Meseta. Stopping here as it's the last village before climbing to the highest point of the Camino. Didn't book anything but got a place at a 'donativ' where you just give a donation but can't book. Room quite crowded with bunks but I have a bottom bunk in the corner. It's next to a door leading to the small church but hoping that won't be used. There is a communal meal at 7 pm. In this small village there is a pizzaria where I had a couple of slices of freshly prepared Margherita pizza and it was really good. Genuine pizza oven. Hope the weather holds - some dark clouds in the sky.Read more

  • Day 39: To El Acebo

    May 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Pop 52 Elevation 1144m. Walked about 12km today starting just before 8am. A steady uphill climb with outstanding mountain vistas. After two km reached Cruz fe Ferro. Traditional to leave a small stone or some momento at the base of the cross which I did. After the cross some more ascents before the path descends steeply on dirt, bedrock or shale where the footing can be difficult where the track has eroded into deep gullies. Lots of heather, lavender and yellow Scottish broom. Slow going but stepping carefully reached El Acebo at lunchtime.Read more

  • Day 40: To Molinaseca

    May 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Left last albergue at 9 am. The 9 km distance was very steep going downhill and a mixture of bedrock, shale or earth. Making it easier was the fact it was a beautiful sunny day, windless and neither too hot or too cold. I overheard some Australians at breakfast and they were ordering taxis to take them there . The previous hospitalero advised taking the road. But taking it slowly came down without any mishaps . Molinaseca is very picturesque with narrow streets and well kept traditional houses with wrought iron verandas. Had a microwave dinner of vegetable paella as the albergue was only serving chicken stew for its evening mealRead more

  • Day 41: To Ponferrada

    May 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Left about 8 am - albergue doesn't do breakfast so walked down high street but nothing was open and continued for 7 km without finding a bar or cafe open. Mostly walking on pavements to next town although when route changed went through a deserted village and fields. On entering Ponferrado and over the stone bridge, rounded a corner and there was the castle. Built by the Knights Templar their legacy lives on today in this large city of 66,000. Visited the castle in the afternoon and their was also an impressive exhibition of illuminated books from 15th century with exquisite paintings and calligraphy. Was glad to find an ATM as this was the first opportunity since Astorga .Read more

  • Day: 42 To Cacabelos

    May 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Pop. 532. According to my guide book this place is charming and relaxed with trendy bars and eateries. Before leaving Ponferrada made a quick visit to the cathedral. From there it was a 15 km walk. At first leaving the city walking downhill through narrow streets pedestrian only before coming to a lovely park beside one of the towns rivers. Then a good portion along pavements with temperatures quite high before coming on paths through the countryside planted with wheat and vines. Having got here I haven't ventured far and am eating a cheese sandwich with a beer for lunch directly outside the albergue where I am staying at an outside table.
    Heard of Thomas Plunkett? He's famous as the world's first sniper for shooting a French general at long range in a battle between the French and English in 1809. More interesting facts from the guidebook: the long, narrow town was destroyed in an earthquake in the 12th century and later the rebuilt town hosted six pilgrim hospitals.
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  • Day43: To Villafranca del Bierzo

    May 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Left Cacabelos just before 8am and took one last shot of the now deserted plaza. Walked along the narrow street out of town and along the pavement next to the main road. I was glad to take a route variation which meandered through vineyards and rolling hills. About 9 km with the alternative route and not a single opportunity for breakfast along the way.
    More stories of death and destruction: 1589 plague, destructive flood 1715 and pillaging by Napoleon's army in 1808. Pop now 3,153. elevation 512m.
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  • Day 44: To Trabaldelo

    May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Left Villafranca on a grey morning which later turned to rain forcing me to stop and put on full rain gear for first time. Much of the walk was beside a road on one side and a river on the other. Higher up was a main road with several tunnels carved through the mountain. Rain stopped long enough for me to get washing done and will hope the rain stays off till it's dry. Looking forward to home cooked evening meal by Susi who is Australian. Only 10 single beds here and I have an alcove.
    From tomorrow there is a series of very steep climbs reaching 1297m. Came here on recommendation of Fraser who stayed here and which also gets extremely good reviews.
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  • Day 45: To Vega de Valcarce

    May 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Pop. 652. Elevation 628. Short walk today. Scenery much as yesterday with path beside secondary road and the major highway with tunnels going through the rock and the road at a high elevation supported on giant pillars. Peals of thunder and rain in the afternoon meant my washing wasn't dry when hurriedly took it off the line.Read more

  • Day 46: To Las Herrerías

    May 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Arrived here at noon and have had shower, done washing and pegged it out but a couple of hours later the sun has gone followed by impressive peals of thunder with lightning followed by rain. This is the place where you can hire a horse to take you up the mountain 8 km to the next town. The two American ladies Fraser and I encountered a few times booked their horses before they left America. 7:30 pm - nothing dried and I have about 6 pieces of damp clothing. Had a nice 3 course pilgrim meal and had a good chat with a Dutchman in same room here as me .Read more

  • Day 47: To O Cebreiro

    May 29, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Walked through the town and then followed the track which continues as a steep ascent to O Cebreiro (elevation 1297m), the first town of Galicia. Walked a bit further than planned as near the top went back to look for my bandana which I found in an albergue/ bar in La Laguna de Castilla (pop 26; elevation 1164m) which is the last village in León.
    O Cebreiro is rather touristy, a victim of its picturesque beauty, with buildings of stone with thatched roofs that are a feature of this region. Went to pilgrim mass at 7pm and all the pilgrims were given a small stone- not sure why but in the morning, away from the dim light of the church, found a painted yellow arrow on one side.
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  • Day 48: To Hospital Da Condesa

    May 30, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Hospital Da Condesa - pop. 23; elev 1241m. Name comes from a Countess who founded a pilgrim's hospital in the nineth century. Not too far today. Destination was an albergue where you can't make reservations so got there early enough. Cost for a bed was cheapest yet at €8. A pleasant walk, some uphill and quite steep, surrounded by trees sometimes, and at other times the path opened up and had panoramic views down to the valleys far below. There is a statue to a pilgrim at Alto San Roque (elev. 1260m.) Although the walking was done in fine weather, didn't do any washing as sure enough in the afternoon there were peals of thunder and heavy rain. Had nice chat at lunch and dinner in the only available bar in the village with Cynthia from New Jersey.Read more

  • Day 49: To Fonfría

    May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Fonfría- pop 34; Elevation 1292m. Gets its name from Latin fond frigida meaning cold spring. A small but active farming village with cattle and working dogs in the main street. About 10 km from previous place but with some steep ascents and after almost 3 km reached Alto Do Poio at 1334m the third highest point on the Camino. Besides being an excellent spot to take in the view, the nearby bar Puerto was convenient to have my first cafe con leche of the day. Like many small villages round here, Fonfría has a rich history of serving pilgrims and in the ancient monastery and hospital once standing here, in the past, pilgrims could be guaranteed a warm fire, bed and two blankets. In addition sick pilgrims got eggs and bacon. It rained in the afternoon and continued till early evening and about 2 am there was a thunderstorm. Luckily, walking in the morning the weather was fine.Read more

  • Day 50: To Triacastela

    June 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Triacastela ( pop 121; elevation 669 m) gets its name from three castles that used to be here. Now primarily a place serving pilgrims with albergues and restaurants. In medieval times pilgrims would carry stones from this area to help in the building of Santiago cathedral. Left Fonfría around 8 am and walked on a gravel path that soon descended steeply and after just under 3 km arrived at tiny hamlet of O Biduedo (pop 31) and stopped for breakfast of café con leche and a banana. It was also a good opportunity to make a call home. Returning again to the path and more steep descents, first on gravel then on broken and jagged rock before turning into a shady and cool walk under oak and chestnut trees. Just before Triacastela, in the tiny hamlet of Ramil, is an old chestnut tree reputedly up to 800 years old and the flowering part a hundred years old. Staying in a large albergue €12 and have the only single bed in the room with four bunk beds. Their restaurant has a pilgrim's menu for €13 which includes grilled salmon and hopefully that will be available this evening. Have avoided doing washing as rain is forecast later though the morning was bright and sunny but not too hot making it very pleasant walking conditions.Read more

  • Day 51: To Samos

    June 2, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Samos (pop. 151; elevation 526m) is famous for its monastery founded in the sixth century. Plundered by pirates many times due to it's wealth and suffered severe damage through fires in 1536 and 1951. I took the Camino variant to Samos which was a walk about 10 km. Much of the early walk was beside a quiet secondary road and next to a surging river. Later the path continued on a delightful shaded path with the tree-bordered river below. Part of the path later was more demanding going downhill on jagged stones and bedrock . Am staying at the monastery's guest house in a nice room adjacent to the monastery. This afternoon took a 40 minute guided tour of the monastery.
    Today saw very few people and am treasuring this time as tomorrow will reach Sarria and the last 115 km to Santiago which I expect to be a different experience with many more people joining the Camino.
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