A Holiday Where? ........ Why?

8-dniowa przygoda według Keith & Jayne Czytaj więcej

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15 października 2023
A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
A Friend in Need....
15 października 2023, Anglia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Background:
Jayne came home from a catch-up with her friend Pat with a question............. "Pat has asked me to go to Lithuania with her to look after her after she has an an operation, and she can't ask anyone else." "Oh!", I said, "And are you going to go?"I've never been on a plane without you," came Jayne's response, "So you will have to come with me!" "OH!!!!" was my response.
After clarifying exactly which city in Lithuania Pat was going to, my immediate reaction was to Google - Is Kaunas Lithuania worth visiting?
Nice old buildings, good restaurants. It's definitely worth visiting and having a nice stroll. Also, it is very nice to go for a walk along the river and visit an Old Castle and St. George church. Doesn't sound too bad for a couple of days away in the summer ........ but we were going for seven days mid-October!

So after a lazy Sunday morning, our taxi 🚖arrived to take us to the John Lennon Airport in Liverpool, picking up Pat en-route. The drive made a pleasant change from travelling to Manchester Airport, and with far fewer passengers travelling from here, we were quickly checked in through passport control and security.
Our Ryanair flight took off 🛫 on time with just a handful of Brits on board the full flight landing just over 3 hours later in Lithuania's 🇱🇹 2nd city Kaunas. After clearing Immigration we quickly collected our bags and met the taxi 🚕 provided by the clinic to take us the 20-minute drive from the airport to the Radisson Hotel on the outskirts of Kaunas Old Town.
After checking in and making our way to our home for the next 7 days, I checked the view from our bedroom window and was pleasantly surprised to see a "Cathedral" type building lit up. At least we had a decent landmark for finding our way back to the hotel if nothing else!! Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
Monday Morning Stroll 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️
16 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
Kaunas is the second-largest city in Lithuania, located in the central part of the country, where rivers Nemunas and Neris meet. Vilnius, the capital, is some 100 km away. Borders with Poland and Russia (Kaliningrad Region) are not too far away either.
After a very nice but leisurely breakfast, the three of us set out to find our bearings🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️and see what Kaunas has to offer. It didn't take us long after turning right out of the hotel, right at the next main road, and then right again to walk straight up to the Church of St. Michael the Archangel, which is the building we can see from our hotel room. Keeping watch on the Cathedral is Man; a modern sculpture, symbolizing freedom and liberation. Leading up to the square is the Laisvės Alėja (literally Liberty Boulevard or Liberty Avenue), which is a prominent pedestrian street in the city of Kaunas. It stretches between the St. Michael the Archangel's Byzantine-style church to the Central Post Office and Tadas Ivanauskas Zoological Museum around the Kaunas Old Town, the oldest section of Kaunas. For a long time, it was the main commercial district of Kaunas. Stretching for 1.6 kilometres (1 mile), Laisvės Alėja is the longest pedestrian street in Eastern Europe. Motor vehicles can not travel along Laisvės Alėja, but they can cross it at intersections with other streets where motor traffic is permitted. The boulevard is separated into two walkways by a median strip lined with linden trees. A short walk down is the City Fountain. One of the main highlights of Kaunas was reborn just a few months ago. The water source installed 40 years ago, when the street was converted to a pedestrian boulevard, still fascinates passers-by and, according to the builders, is currently one of the most modern fountains in Lithuania, with a cooling “fog” effect and music system all controlled remotely. Try as I might, every time I tried to film the fountain in all its glory, it stopped. It was almost if someone was watching!! Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
Midday and Still Walking 🚶‍♂🚶‍♀️ 🚶‍♀️
16 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C
Turning Left at the City Fountain, we walked down to a rather impressive looking bridge 🌁 named the Simonas Daukantas Bridge built 1988, and connecting Nemunas island and downtown Kaunas, the length of the bridge is 151 meters. Built in 1988, representing the main tendencies of late modernism - the luxury and monumentalism. The supporting arch with the columns of Gediminas is one of the earliest symbols of Lithuania and its historical coats of arms. This symbol of statehood was incorporated during the building of the bridge and became public while still a couple of years ahead to the Independence of Lithuania in 1990. On the 4th of July in 1996, celebrating the National day, a Lithuanian aerobatic pilot Jurgis Kairys was the first in the world to legally fly under a pedestrian bridge (the gap between the constructions of Simonas Daukantas bridge and the river being only 7 meters). In 2000, Kairys performed an inverted flight under the same bridge, nicknamed the Ultra flight.
Back on the Laisvės Alėja, and leaving the tree lined boulevard behind, we walked into the much narrower old town and stopped for a delicious cup of coffee. Despite being sat in the midday sunshine, I got bored, leaving the girls chatting, I walked around the corner and into the grounds of an Historical Palace a Neo-baroque building in the Old Town of Kaunas that served as the Presidential Palace between 1919 and 1940, this building is one of the most important locations of Lithuanian history. Once the home of presidents like A. Smetona, K. Grinius and A. Stulginskis
Further on in the Town Hall, Square is the Church of St. Francis Xavier built by the Jesuits and who opened their first residence in Kaunas in 1642 and established a chapel in the House of Perkūnas in 1643. The construction of the church started in 1666 and was completed in 1720. The church was consecrated in 1722. The Tsarist Russian government gave the church to the Orthodox church for their use in 1824. The church was again assigned to the Jesuits only in 1924. After Lithuania was occupied by Soviet Union the St. Francis Xavier church was turned into a technical school, and the interior of the church was used as a sports hall. The church was returned again to the Jesuits in 1989, and renovation of the church took place in 1992.
Also adjoining the Square is the Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity, a late Renaissance period (with Gothic features), with a hall style, outbuildings, and a tower on the side. Its high roof and apse have small towers. The interior has three naves separated by pillars. The vaults are stellar and cross-shaped. There are a total of 9 altars. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
Later that Monday .....
16 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
Very near Town Hall Square is a rather bland looking building which is the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul, built entirely of red brick with features of both Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. Built in the 15th century, Vytautas the Great Church has seen a varied history as a Catholic church, storage space for ammunition by Napoleon’s army, and Orthodox church, and again as a Catholic church. Situated right next to the Nemunas River, Vytautas the Great Church has been flooded several times throughout history, thus it has seen numerous reconstructions with the largest renovations occurring in the 1930s and late 1970s. The largest Gothic structure in Lithuania, and the country’s only Gothic church with a basilica floor-plan as opposed to the usual cross-shaped design. Its one-of-a-kind interior, with its nine altars, is also breath-taking quite a contrast from its easily unnoticeable outside appearance.
From Town Hall Square we walked around the corner to Kaunas Castle standing close to where the Nemunas and Neris rivers, converge this impressive brick castle was built in the 14th century at the beginning of the Teutonic attacks.
Looking towards the Castle is the Monument to Vytis, a freedom warrior sculpture, with the state symbol in the coat of arms of Lithuania, knight riding a horse with a sword and shield.
Walking back towards the hotel along the Laisves Aleja (which as you may have now gathered is the main walkway from one end of Kaunas through to the other end) we came across a very nice bar / café / restaurant called Paslėpti receptai where we had an enjoyable couple of hours drinking wine, gin and local beer whilst deciding on what to eat. Lovely food that included drinks and meals all for £53 for the 3 of us. We will definitely return there. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
The Longest Day......
17 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
Tuesday was the longest day of our trip to Lithuania.
To be more precise, Tuesday was actually 13 days long as I went to visit and walk across the longest bridge in the world.
In order to cross the Vytautas* The Great Bridge (to give it its formal name) from one bank of the Nemunas to the other took 13 days, because Kaunas belonged to the Russian Empire and Aleksotas to the Prussian kingdom up to 1807. The different sides of the river had different calendars, which included a 13-day difference. During World War II, the bridge was blown up twice, only to be reborn in 1948 (architect Levas Kazarinskis); the bridge retraction mechanism is still of use today. Having crossed the Nemunas, you can try the funicular and climb to the Aleksotas area where you will see a breathtaking panorama of Kaunas.
Once across the river, you can embark on a funicular journey, which is a unique experience in Kaunas, as this is the only city in the Baltic states where this means of transport is available. The Aleksotas Funicular; built in 1934, is much sought for the view you'll get (of the Old Town) once you reach the hill of the same name and stand on the observation platform.
After walking down the steps back to the bridge, I made my way across the bridge back into Kaunas and walked towards the castle 🏰

Vytautas*, also known as Vytautas the Great from the late 14th century onwards, was a ruler of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. He was also the prince of Grodno, prince of Lutsk, and the postulated king of the Hussites. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
Old Buildings of Kaunas
17 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ 🌬 12 °C
Kaunas Castle is one of the oldest Stone Castles in Lithuania. Unique for its double walls and the surrounding tunnel, many events and legends of Lithuanian history are attributed to it. Today, the castle is home to various temporary and permanent programmes all year round.
Just opposite the castle, St. George the Martyr Church is also worth a visit, for it is an important landmark of Roman Catholicism and has had many uses and owners during its 550-year history.
The church was heavily damaged by fire in 1603, as well as by the Moscow army during the war with Moscow in 1656 and 1659.
In 1812, the French army led by Napoleon converted the church into a flour warehouse. Last major repairs were carried out here in 1936. The church was used as a warehouse once again after World War II. P. Mažylis Medical School was established here during the Soviet period.
In 2005, the church which was already in very poor condition was given back to the monks. The brick monastery building built in the 16th century next to the church preserved many of its Gothic elements.
Reconstruction works of both the church and the monastery began in July of 2009.
Walking back along the Laisvės Alėja to meet the girls for an early evening meal at Nefiskalinis Kvitas; yes, the place we ate at last night and yes, the place I did say we would definitely return to, I stopped to look at the exterior of what to me is a typical “cold war” Soviet building which was in fact the Central Post Office and built in the 1930’s, and still being used for that same purpose today. One interesting observation and one I have no answer to is, why there are chairs on the steps??? Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
A Grand Day Out....
18 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
Today is the day of Pat’s Operation, so there is nothing Jayne can do for her, so we are off to Vilnius the Capital of Lithuania. We caught the trolley bus 🚎 from outside the hotel to take us directly to the Kaunas Train Station or Stotis as station is in Lithuanian. For £22.77 we rode on the upper deck of the carriage in First Class for the 80-minute journey 🚅 to Vilnius. Enjoying the views as well as our free bottle of water, we arrived in Vilnius. Following the street signs, we made our way to the old town to see the cathedral and stand-alone tower after I had googled what to see in Vilnius. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
It's Raining 🌧☔️☔️....
18 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ 🌧 8 °C
As we made our way 🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️ to the Old Town of Vilnius, we could see the sky getting blacker and darker. As the skies opened, we were lucky enough to be across the road from a lovely Italian restaurant that didn’t bat an eye lid when asked if we could come in and just have a drink. The best thing about this restaurant was that they sold lovely wine 🍷🍷. So while the heavens opened and people sheltered 🌦🌧☔️ in doorways, we sat nice and warm just getting wet 🍷🍷on the inside. Once the rain stopped, we paid our bill and ventured out carrying on further down the street finding ourselves in Cathedral Square which is dominated by the Neoclassical cathedral, dating from the thirteenth century when a wooden church was built here on the site of a temple dedicated to Perkųnas, the god of thunder. The highlight of the airy, vaulted interior is the opulent Chapel of St Casimir, the patron saint of Lithuania. Next to the cathedral on the square is the white belfry, once part of the fortifications of the vanished Lower Castle. Between the cathedral and the belfry lies a small coloured tile with stebuklas (miracle) written on it, marking the spot from where, in 1989, two million people formed a human chain that stretched all the way to Tallinn, Estonia, to protest against Soviet occupation.
Around the corner from Cathedral Square is Gediminas’ Castle Tower, which is the remaining fortification tower of the Upper Castle. Legend has it that the Grand Duke Gediminas dreamt of an Iron Wolf howling at the top of this hill, which he took as a prophecy of the great city that would one day stand in this place. The hill is where he eventually built a wooden castle.
Grand Duke Vytautas completed the city’s first brick castle in 1409. Gediminas’ Tower has changed purposes since then, including being used as the city’s first telegraph building in 1838. The Lithuanian flag was first flown at the top of the tower a century ago. The Vilnius Castle Museum was opened in 1960, and in 1968, it became a subdivision of the Lithuanian National Museum. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
A Taste of Lithuanian 🇱🇹 Fayre
18 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
Heading 🚶‍♀️🚶‍♂️ back to the train 🚉 station or, as I have already said, the Stotis we decided to eat before we left and diverted into a traditional Lithuanian restaurant called Restoranas Etas Dvaras and ordered typical Lithuanian cuisine. For starters, we ordered Grated Potato Pancakes and Potato Dumplings filled with meat to share. For mains, Jayne ordered the Roast Chicken Breast and Salad whilst I went for the good old Chicken Kiev. With a couple of drinks, our bill came to £33.81 and to be honest, apart from the potato pancakes, it wasn’t very enjoyable!!
We then caught the train 🚅 (2nd Class for £13 .91 just £8.86 or £4.43 each cheaper than 1st class and headed off into the sunset 🌇 towards Kaunas. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
A Different Part of Town..
19 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C
Thursday, I decided to go to the other part of town and check out the big white church we could see at the top of the hill from our hotel the Basilica of the Resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ.
Setting off down the Laisvės Alėja I then turned right at the fountain and headed to the Vytautas Magnus War Museum. Just to the left of the Museum is a garden that contains the Monument to the Fallen for Lithuania’s Freedom (Žuvusiems už Lietuvos laisvę, 1921), in its immediate surroundings, there is the Altar with the Eternal Flame in front of the Monument, the Grave of the Unknown Soldier in between them (Nežinomo Kareivio Kapas), and the busts of Povilas Lukšys and Antanas Juozapavičius – respectively, the first soldier and the first officer killed in the Wars of Independence in February 1919 – on the both sides of the Monument to the Fallen. Additionally, behind the monument are we wooden crosses and praying poles. In 1921-1922, four crosses, two poles with rooftops (“stogastulpis” in Lithuanian) and one praying pole (“koplystulpis” in Lithuanian) were placed on both sides of the Monument. The decorative crosses are part of Lithuanian tradition and today they are recognized by UNESCO and put on their Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists. Crosses are made of oak wood and richly decorated, also with pagan symbols.
Continuing on and following the signs for the Basilica I arrived at and took the; Žaliakalnis Funicular, built in 1931, and one of the oldest funiculars still in operation in the world, up the hill. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
Another Day Another Church
19 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
Christ's Resurrection Church
This magnificent Art Deco church is a reflection of Lithuania’s turbulent history. It is the biggest basilica-type church in the Baltic States. The church was built in 1932–1940 after Lithuania regained independence. In 1922, the idea was to build a church as a symbol of thank-you to God for freedom regained in the temporary capital Kaunas emerged. However, construction was stopped by the Soviet occupation. The building was confiscated and used as premises for the radio factory (later called “Banga”) after the war. In 1990, the church was returned to congregation, during the restoration of the church, some changes were made in its project. The space in the church is in the style of a basilica with three naves. The architecture is monumental and laconic; the tower is 70 meters high. Visitors have the possibility to go to the observation deck on the church roof to enjoy the panoramic view of the city.
After walking into the Church and having a look around the nave area with its altars and confessional boxes I decided to explore the upper echelons’ and feeling fit with no gym time I took the stairs rather than the lift! Stepping past numerous locked doors and windows in the tower; looking out onto the street below, I was thinking maybe the lift would have been a better idea!! Finally, with a beating heart 💞 I see daylight only to realise I have reached the roof of the church and not the top of the tower, which thankfully didn’t have any access. Unfortunately, the way the roof is set up didn’t provide 360-degree views. One side of the church overlooked the old town and river, including the area with our hotel whilst the opposite side looked out over the industrial area and residential area in the distance.
It was a lot easier walking 😁👍 down the stairwell and then again walking down back to the old town. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
A Walk in the Dark
19 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
After meeting back up with Jayne at the hotel, we went out for our evening meal. Walking back down the Laisvės Alėja we came upon a very nice-looking Italian restaurant called Cash Della Pasta that we had noticed on more than one occasion during our many walks down Freedom Avenue. Jayne enjoyed her Salmon al Forno, whereas I; being rather adventurous, went for the Spaghetti Bolognese. £37 including a couple of large glasses of wine 🍷🍷 for us both. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
A Lazy Morning
20 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C
It's another lazy morning for me anyway. As Jayne helped Pat, I went back to the Church of St, Michael thee Archangel, to take a few photographs 📸 📷 from a different perspective. I also noticed that it was open to the public , so I went. In 1895, Russian Czar Alexander III ordered construction of the Orthodox Cathedral for the Kaunas fortress garrison, as a representational structure, expressing luxury and official status The Sobor was designed by Russian architects and decorated by Petersburg artists. In 1919, it was transformed into a Catholic St. Michael the Archangel church garrison. In 1965, the church became a stained glass and sculpture gallery. After the restoration of independence, the St. Michael, the Archangel Catholic Church, is now operating again, and once again, the once removed crosses are raised high. ⛪️ Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
A bit of Culture?
20 października 2023, Anglia ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
Meeting up with Jayne in the hotel, I was surprised to hear her say shall we go to the Acropolis.🏛 Wow, I thought I didn’t know there were any ancient Greek monuments I Kaunas. Shortly after we arrived at the Akropolis 🕋 shopping centre 😁. Anyway, the weather was changing and threatening rain 🌧 plus I felt as though I was starting with a cold 🤧 so after a look around the shops, I sat in a coffee shop ☕️ watching the world go by🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️ and waited patiently for Jayne 👜👡🛍👠🧤🧣.
In the early evening Jayne and I headed back down into the Old Town and fancying a glass of wine we popped into a sort of bar / restaurant; called Pjazz, playing good music and although not to busy gave off a really nice atmosphere. The wine 🍷 🍷was tasty, and we soon found ourselves calling our friendly waitress over and ordering another couple of glasses 🍷🍷. Still loving the atmosphere and now the music 🎶 we decided to order food from the quite appetizing menu; Salmon and vegetables for Jayne and a large rack of ribs (or as google would have you believe maxi ankle boots!!) for me. Oh, and another couple of glasses of wine🍷🍷.
Our bill came to £60 with 48% being for the wine! We had a thoroughly enjoyable time in a lovely atmosphere with good wine, tasty food with friendly and attentive staff. ….. Why had we not been in here before??? Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
Poorly Penguin 🐧 Stays Home...
21 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ 🌧 7 °C
It was not a good day today as this little penguin had a sleepless night and developed a “stinking” cold 🤧, so after breakfast, I sought refuge back in my bed 😴 at the Radisson!! This left Jayne with a free day to do as she pleased apart from regular refreshment visits to her TWO room bound travelling companions. So, there are no photographs today but a chance to share some of the Street Art we saw in Kaunas.

1st Photo is the Bearer of Light by Vytenis Jakas, 2019

2nd Photo is ‘Wise Old Man’ has become an Instagram staple; an enormous mural that dominates the entire side of a former shoe factory on the leafy avenue of Jonavos Street. The giant gentleman in question — wearing a red bodysuit while smoking a pipe bigger than his own head — is Jurgis Maciunas, a Kaunas-born artist who carried Lithuanian modern art into the wider world in the mid-20th century. He would have known the surrounding streets and buildings well — including Kaunas Castle, the medieval stronghold whose striking red-brick tower stands directly opposite the painting. Painted as a tribute to influential Kaunas-born artist Jurgis Maciunas, the 'Wise Old Man' mural adorns the side of an old shoe factory.

3rd Photo is a big mural that can be found on the walls all over the city. This particular one was painted by a well-known Lithuanian artist, Ernest Zacharevic (who also has works in Vilnius or Warsaw).

4th Photo is apparently one of the best street art pieces; “Princess on a Horse”. It was painted by a 7-year-old girl, Gabija, and then transferred to the wall by one of the artists. This is such a cute mural, and it definitely puts a smile on your face with its bright colours!

Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how interested you are, I could not find any information on the remaining street art photographs that I took. Czytaj więcej
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A Holiday Where? ........ Why?
The Last Day....
22 października 2023, Litwa ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
Today is going to be a hard day as this little penguin is still feeling sorry for himself and we have to check out of our room by 11:00 am. Unfortunately, our flight home isn’t for another 12 hours!!
After what has become the habitual lazy breakfast, we finished packing our bags, paid our bill and checked out. With our bags locked away we decided to go out for a walk towards the other side of town. As we headed in the direction of Kaunas Train Station we came across a park and decided to check it out. The park is called Ramybė Parkas (Peace or Tranquility Park), a public park established in 1959 in the territory of the Kaunas City Old Cemetery that was also known as the Carmelite Cemetery. During World War I and subsequent Lithuanian Wars of Independence, Russian, German, and Lithuanian soldiers were buried in the cemetery. During the interwar period when Kaunas was the temporary capital of Lithuania, many famous people were buried there and several buildings (churches, schools) were constructed on the cemetery's territory. In 1930, a monument to fallen Lithuanian soldiers with a tomb of an unknown soldier was unveiled. Around the same time, a tradition to honour fallen soldiers on the All Saints' Day began. On All Saints' Day in 1956, a spontaneous anti-Soviet demonstration started in the cemetery in support of the Hungarian Revolution of 1956. After smaller incidents in 1957 and 1958, Soviet authorities decided to demolish the cemetery and turn it into a recreational park. Families were given a few months to rebury their relatives elsewhere (many were moved to the Petrašiūnai Cemetery). Tombstones, monuments, crypts and a Catholic chapel were demolished. The Soviets installed a monument with ashes of four communists executed after the December 1926 coup. After Lithuania regained independence in 1990, the Soviet monument was moved to Grūtas Park. The monument to Lithuanian soldiers was reconstructed, and new monuments dedicated to the participants of the June Uprising and Lithuanian partisans were erected.
Heading back to the hotel we stopped off at the Akropolis Shopping Centre, staying there for an early evening meal at a lovely Chinese restaurant; called Devyni Drakonai, where the food was equally as lovely and cheap in price, only £34.
After heading back to the hotel, we collected Pat from her room and after a short wait the taxi arrived to take us all to the airport for our flight home. Czytaj więcej
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Koniec wyprawy
22 października 2023