Ecuador Adventures

August 2022 - August 2023
A 352-day adventure by Ecuador Adventures Read more
  • 66footprints
  • 4countries
  • 352days
  • 1.1kphotos
  • 97videos
  • 25.2kmiles
  • 19.9kmiles
  • Day 1

    We’re off!

    August 19, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 88 °F

    See the bit of fear in Talia’s eyes? That’s the look of a kid whose parents decided to move to small-town Ecuador with almost no Spanish skills (both of us) and a debilitating fear of snakes (just me).  Oh well!  Here we go!  Read more

  • Day 2

    Made it to Guayaquil!

    August 20, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

    Kyla had to decide between two of her most highly developed (but incompatible) skills for this trip: (a) thinking of (and packing) everything we could possibly need for a year and (b) packing light enough for an Amazing Race-type competition. As evidenced by the photo below, we went with option (a) and, even though our bags are heavy, I’m hoping our time in Ecuador is light.

    We landed at 1 am, schlepped our enormous bags to a hotel, and, after a few hours of sleep, spent our first day exploring Guayaquil, Ecuador’s most populous city (per the internet). We walked along the waterfront, communed with urban iguanas and hit the hotel pool.

    At night, we explored the Las Peñas neighborhood and walked up 444 steps to the top of the Santa Ana hill, where we found 947374938 more steps to get to the top of a lighthouse with great views of the city. In the morning, breakfast felt like the set of Ted Lasso (see final pic).

    Now we are off to Olon, where we plan to spend most of the year (though who knows?!?).

    One final fact about Ecuador: per Wikipedia, there are only 250 Jews in all of Ecuador. Well, we added a few more today. Brace yourself, Ecuador.
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  • Day 3

    At home (for now) in Olon

    August 21, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Our first few days in Olon have been peaceful. We explored the little town of Olon, which has a million beachfront ceviche places, some markets, a small playground and various little shops, restaurants and cafes. As you can see from the photos, there’s no Wegmans here, but we’re managing.

    In addition to Olon, we’ve explored nearby Montanita, a slightly larger and more touristy town (for Ecuadorian tourists, not US tourists) that has a bigger market, more restaurants and a ton of backpackers/surfers. Talia had an unfortunate run in with cow poop on the beach and I snapped a photo of her running into the ocean to clean her tie-dye crocs, which is just about the most “gringo-in-Ecuador” thing ever. We were a bit overwhelmed by the scene in Montanita in our initial explorations, but it’s useful to have a nearby town that is slightly bigger than Olon.

    Kyla is back at work full time, so I’ve been going on the sorts of adventures with Talia that I don’t think Kyla will mind missing. Adventure # 1 was a horseback ride and hike to a nice little waterfall in an area called Dos Mangas. Before I move on, can anyone photoshop a helmet onto Talia’s head before my mom (and her posse of friends) sees the pics of Talia on a horse and scaling a waterfall?

    Adventure #2 was a sailboat whale watching expedition. During this trip, I learned two important things: (1) I’m terrible at photographing whales (see evidence below) and (2) those little anti-seasickness wristbands are a load of beachfront cow poop. That aside, it was cool to see a bunch of whales and we spotted our first blue footed boobies (apparently the ones we saw are young, since their feet turn a brighter blue as they mature). I’ll make a separate post with all the birds at some point.

    In addition to adventures outside of Olon, the three of us have done a lot of walking around on the beach and hunting for various products that we didn’t bring with us (I’d kill for some unscented laundry detergent, for example). We’ve also been working on identifying various unfamiliar birds and fruits, as you can see from the photos. It’s been fun to explore with Talia, but the unstructured time is also exhausting, so we’re all excited for school to start in mid-September.

    There have been a few things that have been harder than expected in the first week. Talia was the first to fall to “traveler’s stomach,” which is a bummer. It’s also been s challenge to find feed ourselves. There are bunch of restaurants in town, and a few markets…a lot is made more challenging by not being able to drink or cook with the water. Next week’s project will be figuring out a good system for grocery shopping.

    It’s cloudy season here and that means it’s cool on the coast. We will use weekends to chase the sun in other parts of Ecuador. It’s a good thing that Kyla packed the vitamin D in those 9274629273 bags! We’re off to Puerto Lopez tomorrow!
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  • Day 10

    Puerto Lopez and Back Again

    August 28, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    My guess is that I’m posting way too frequently for everyone besides my mom and others who were at my bar mitzvah 938373 years ago. I’m going to try to create a new post for each town we visit so as to record it all for Talia since she may not remember this adventure. My hope is to turn this into a little book for her. If the Dean happens to read this, please consider whether said book will count as a publication during my sabbatical.

    Anyway, back to recording our adventure. On Saturday, we ventured to Puerto Lopez, stopping at a roadside bakery and viewing towns even smaller than Olon along the way. We jumped out of the taxi for a photo at Los Piqueros overlook and then had a seafood lunch in Puerto Lopez. After lunch, we went to a beach in a nearby national park (Los Frailes beach).

    On Sunday it was finally sunny and we hit the beach in Olon (have I mentioned that it’s cloudy season here?!). Talia body boarded with a new friend for hours and Kyla and I had our best meal yet as well as drinks on the beach…only to be taken out of commission by Ecuadorian stomach insanity. We have sort of recovered.

    During the times that I wasn’t on the floor groaning and clenching my stomach today, Talia and I continued our explorations. We came across some fishermen who pulled fish out of the ocean and loaded up their bike-cart to ride up and down the beach yelling “pescado!” There’s also a guy on a motorcycle who does the same thing every morning—like an ice cream truck but with fish.
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  • Day 15

    Fishing in Olon

    September 2, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We had a chance to watch some local fisherman right outside our apartment on Friday.

    They started by dragging their huge net from the beach into the ocean on a small paddle-powered boat. They spread the net out over what looked like about a quarter of a mile. Then, two lines of people standing a quarter mile apart dragged the net in over the course of an hour, slowly meeting in the middle, right in front of our apartment.

    As the fishermen finished their work, lots of other people showed up: a ceviche-on-a bike-cart guy and the pescado-motorcycle guy were first to line up, followed by vendors from the local fish market. Others brought nets and some tied ropes around their waists and stuffed their shirts with flopping fish. The whole thing happened without any exchange of money, so I’m not sure whether this was a business venture or just a fun Friday morning fishing trip among friends (have I mentioned that our Spanish is terrible?!). As they wrapped up their work, the men taught Talia how to play fetch with some hungry birds, using the fish that were to small to keep. A lot of excitement on a Friday morning!

    Oh, and the other exiting moment this week occurred when a lizard dropped from our ceiling onto Kyla’s desk while she was working. Talia and I were eating lunch in town, but we ran home via the 5 minute commute on the beach so that Talia could help set the lizard free. Later that day, the lizard’s BFF showed up and we had to do another lizard relocation project. I felt a little badly evicting the lizards, given my line of work, but I’m hoping we did right by them.

    Pics/videos of lizard and fishing below!
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  • Day 16

    Up the Coast to Canoa

    September 3, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We took a road trip 5 hours north to Conoa this weekend, hunting for sun.

    We only found a little sun, but we had a bunch of interesting learning experiences. Perhaps most importantly, we learned that Charles (my mom’s travel agent/cardiologist gentleman caller) or Addie (renown Airbnb expert) should book the rest of our travel arrangements. We are not wimpy travelers, but this weekend we realized that we are not 20 years old and that accommodations advertised on hostelworld.com may not be for us.

    That said, we really enjoyed lots about the weekend. The changes in topography in our road trip—cacti, rice paddies, palm trees, crazy huge trees, sea, hills and mountains - were really cool. We saw so many weird and amazing micro climates in such a short period of time. Unfortunately, Talia missed most of the drive because, heeding warnings from travel books, we gave her a Dramamine to help with car sickness (the roads are very curvy, and in some places, sort of in the ocean). It’s possible that we went overboard with the Dramamine because she was OUT for the ride.

    After the long ride, we spent one night in Canoa, but between the late night dance party next door to our accommodation (“hotel” is not quite the right word) and a group of nocturnal roosters on the street outside, none of us slept well. We had planned a day trip to an organic farm not far from Canoa, but decided to check out of the dance-party-and-rooster hotel in order to stay at the peaceful farm. The farm was certainly beautiful, and the food - all grown on site - was amazing…but the abuelo at the neighboring farm down the road happened to turn 72 this weekend, so the family played dance music until 6am and of course a group of roosters cockle-doodle-doo’ed from 3am until the sun rose. Additionally, while I’m excited about all of the biodiversity in Ecuador, I’m beginning to think it’s mostly diversity in insects—despite the the mosquito nets, the enormous bugs didn’t help our sleep.

    Notwithstanding the lack of sleep and excessive encounters with strange bugs, we had a good time. Talia loved all of the farm animals— she enjoyed riding another horse, feeding pigs and chickens and hanging with a dog named Mango. She especially liked the cat, Mousey, which made me love her a tiny bit less (where’s her dog loyalty?!?).  We all learned a lot about sustainable farming (and compostable toilets), plus Talia learned how to harvest cocoa beans and make chocolate. To top it off, she made a necklace and a ring from local plants, which involved her using a saw and various other dangerous tools with minimal supervision. Of course, she’s most excited to tell her grandparents about this. In good news, no one lost any fingers.

    Before we left, the abuelo from the farm down the road brought us some birthday cake to make up for the noise from the wild geriatric party the night before. The adventure continues…

    ****

    Oh wait! This just in! A guest post narrated by Talia:

    Hello everybody! I am happy that you guys read our blog. Right now I’m at a farm and I fed pigs and chickens, and I also did more horseback riding. I’m eating my breakfast at the farm while mommy types. Oh, I also fed chickens and roosters. We have a cat at the farm named Mousey. She’s very sweet. Also, there are dogs named Mango and Rosa. They are super cute and always come into our little house.

    We slept in little nets so we would be safe from mosquitos. Actually, beetles swarmed all around us. There were 3 million of them. My mommies put me in my net first and then they got into their net. And my mommies heard a noise at night and Mango barked and barked. He was guarding us, which was sweet. Yeah, that’s it from Ecuador. I hope school is fun! Bye! Love, Talia.
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  • Day 23

    Cuenca was cool!

    September 10, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We just returned from 5 great days in Cuenca. We hadn’t been planning to visit Cuenca so soon, but after our misadventures with accommodations in Canoa, we decided we needed to redeem ourselves as competent bookers of airbnbs. Plus we have a few more days until Talia starts school and we figured we might as well explore.

    Cuenca was lovely—beautiful views, good food, endless bakeries and tons to see. We wandered through narrow streets, pretty parks, packed markets and endless churches. The churches inspired Talia to ask a lot of questions about Judaism, Christianity and the origins of humanity, so we stopped in a planetarium to learn about the Big Bang, galaxies, etc. Or, at least I think it was a planetarium and I think the movie was about the Big Bang--can't be sure since it was in Spanish.

    In addition to exploring the city, we took a trip to Cajas National Park, right outside the city. A driver took us to the top of a mountain, where we hopped out for a freezing photo before heading back down for a hike around Llaviucu Lake in more temperate weather. The hike was gorgeous and it gave us an opportunity to spy our first group of wild llamas. Some adventurers had pitched a tent in the field of llamas, and we all wondered if the llamas were as aggressive about stealing food as the "wild" horses of Assateague.

    Oh, and importantly, we stayed in a wonderful Airbnb in the center of the city, with an amazing view from the roof deck. Addie and Charles can relax a bit--no immediate needs for their travel agent skills.

    Highlights for Talia included:

    -cashing in on bribes at the many bakeries
    -enjoying an incredibly rickety and old amusement park created to freak out anxious parents high in the hills above Cuenca
    -buying fruit from mango and pineapple vendors on the street (this exists on Mt. Pleasant street too, but for some reason is way more exciting in Ecuador)
    -swimming in pools fed from hot springs (“even warmer than Judy Lappin’s pool,”per Talia)
    -playing catch with some kids in Parque San Sebastián
    -schlepping to the top of catherdrals
    -and a direct quote "Cuenca was really beautiful and sunny, and we saw llamas."

    My highlights included:

    -finding haircare products (terrifyingly, these appear to be non-existent in Olon, which means that my hair may soon expand to the size of a small planet)
    -more vitamin D. We had some great sunny days in Cuenca, though, as I’m sure I’ll discuss in future posts, the weather in Ecuador is strange.
    -watching the impact of two glasses of wine at 8800 ft on Kyla (it involved her joining a late night outdoor Zumba class on the steps of St. Sebastian church). I have not been authorized to release the video, but will forever remember Talia trying to tackle Kyla while yelling "MOMMY, STOP DANCING!!! PLEASE!!!"
    -llamas!

    Kyla's highlights included:
    -sunrise with coffee and sunset with wine on the roof deck
    -home office at 8000 Ft
    -mountains!
    -llamas!

    Overall, Cuenca was our favorite spot so far. We took so many photos that I may have to divide this into multiple posts.
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  • Day 24

    More photos from Cuenca

    September 11, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    These are pics from:

    —the lookout and tiny amusement-park-of-stress in the Turi neighborhood in Cuenca
    —various streets and markets around Cuenca
    —the cold lookout high up in Cajas National Park
    —the video is from our hike in Cajas
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  • Day 24

    Final Cuenca Photos

    September 11, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    These photos are:
    —more Cajas hiking (with llamas!)
    —museum of modern art in cuenca (talia loved the “fuzzy hotdogs”). The museum was particularly cool because there were galleries with paintings and then tiny rooms with 3D representations of the paintings (i.e. the “fuzzy hotdogs” were a 3D interpretation of a painting)
    —hot spring pool
    —more scenes of Cuenca
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  • Day 25

    Birds so far

    September 12, 2022 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Most of these birds were right outside our door in Olon, but some are from Puerto Lucia and Sucre (Rio Muchacho farm). Kyla and Talia have done their best to label them using our 94738364 page Ecuador bird book, but please feel free to leave a comments with suggestions and corrections.Read more