• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
Dec 2023 – May 2024

Adventuring Down Under

Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Read more
  • Peaceful morning ... inviting swimming pool ... reflections — Double Tree in Darwin, NT.
    Peaceful morning ... inviting swimming pool ... reflections — Double Tree in Darwin, NT.Mui decides to go for a swim — Double Tree in Darwin, NT.Mui decides to go for a swim — Double Tree in Darwin, NT.Mui decides to go for a swim — Double Tree in Darwin, NT.

    Darwin: Morning Swim

    April 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    A good night’s rest.

    A decent breakfast poolside, enjoying the low humidity before the day began to warm up.

    Mui couldn’t resist the siren call of the empty pool. So, after breakfast, he donned his swim gear and went for a swim while I read for a bit poolside.

    A relaxing start to our day.
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  • Darwin: The Esplanade

    April 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Overlooking Darwin Harbor, the nearly two-mile long Esplanade runs through lush green lawns. There are plenty of trees that provide shade … something that is really important in Darwin any time … but even more so when the sun is shining … as it was today.

    With plans to meet friends for lunch, we decided to have an easy morning. Leaving the Double Tree around 10:00a, we crossed the street to stroll the Esplanade … stopping to check out the memorials along the way … many of them dedicated to the attack on Darwin by the Japanese on 19 February 1942.
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  • Lunch with Chris and Claudio at Shennanigans — Darwin, NT.
    Nautica docked at the Fort Hill Wharf — Darwin, NT.

    Darwin: Lunch with Oceania Friends

    April 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    We were not supposed to be in Darwin today.

    More accurately, we were supposed to be in Darwin. But we were supposed to be out for the day … on a flight-seeing trip to Kakadu National Park.

    That was before I had my vertigo episode in Cairns. Suddenly, flying to a remote location on a small aircraft didn’t seem like a smart idea. So, we canceled the trip.

    The good news? It gave us a chance to meet up with friends on Oceania’s Nautica, the sister ship to Insignia … on which we did the world cruise last year.

    Nautica had called on Cairns while we were there. However, Chris (Executive Concierge) was port manning and Claudio (General Manager) had a previous engagement. Who knew we’d have another chance to plan a meet up … this time in Darwin.

    We met up with Claudio and Chris at Shennanigans … a pub on Mitchell Street … the same place where we had dinner last night. Thankfully, it was quiet today … no live band performance … no happy-hour crowd.

    The food was delicious. The beer was cold. The conversation … well, that was the highlight. It was great to catch up with friends.
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  • At the top of the Damoe-Ra Pathway — Darwin, NT.
    One of the flowering bushes along the Damoe-Ra Pathwah — Darwin, NT.Mural at the bottom of the Damoe-Ra Pathway — Darwin, NT.RFDS Tourist Facility — Stokes Hill Wharf ... Darwin, NT."Papa" ... the 122nd aircraft purpose-built by Pilatus for the RFDS — Darwin, NT.The Pilatus aircraft is built with a special patient loading door — Darwin, NT.Historic photos ... RFDS Exhibits at the Tourist Facility — Darwin, NT.Oil tanks burning ... Darwin Wharf ... 19 February 1942 — RFDS Tourist Facility.Mural on Stokes Hill Wharf — Darwin, NT.Main Hall at Parliament House — Darwin, NT.Aboriginal law and land is derived from the Dreamtime ... inset: a keeper of the law.Tattered flag ... from the day Darwin was attacked ... Main Hall Parliament House — Darwin, NT."Ngarra Law" by J.G. Gaykamangu ... Parliament House — Darwin, NT.Original wall from the post office that was destroyed when Darwin was bombed.The unicameral parliamentary chamber ... Parliament House — Darwin, NT.Water feature/fountain ... dedicated to 2 men who died when a crane collapsed during construction.The NT flag carries the territory's floral emblem ... the Sturt's Desert Rose.Looking back towards Parliament House from the terrace — Darwin, NT.Yirrkala bark painting by N. Maymuru ... Parliament House — Darwin, NT.Mural in the CBD — Darwin, NT.

    Darwin: RFDS to Parliament House

    April 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 90 °F

    Knowing that the heat and humidity grows worse as the day progresses, we had an early breakfast poolside at the hotel. Mui took a dip. Then we set out on a walk to Stokes Hill Wharf … via the Damoe-Ra Pathway.

    Commemorating Northern Territory Women, the pathway starts out with a series of stairs — the railings painted a brilliant aqua — and goes through grounds filled with tropical plants. It wasn’t a long walk … or a difficult one. But the humidity was already such that we were soaked to the skin with sweat by the time we got to our destination at Stokes Hill Wharf … the RFDS Tourist Facility. A/C! Yay!

    RFDS = Royal Flying Doctor Service. As one of the largest aeromedical organizations in the world, it provides emergency, primary care, and preventive health services for Australians living in rural and remote areas of the country. When it was founded by Reverend John Flynn back in 1928, it didn’t have the “royal” designation. That status was granted to the service by Queen Elizabeth II during her royal visit to Australia in 1954.

    The RFDS Tourist Facility also has exhibits about the bombing of Darwin by Japanese aircraft on 19 February 1942. In fact, I’d say there was more about that infamous day than about the RFDS. Nonetheless, we enjoyed visiting the facility, watching two holographic documentaries in the theater before wandering around the exhibits.

    From Stokes Hill Wharf, we Ubered back up into the city to visit the Northern Territory Parliament House. It is built on the site of the Palmerston Post Office, which was reduced to rubble during the aerial attack of Darwin. The materials used to construct the building were all sourced from within Australia.

    After going through the security check point, we were handed a brochure and encouraged to explore at our own pace. Any of the rooms with open doors were available for us to visit, including the gallery from which we were able to view the unicameral parliamentary chamber.

    We wrapped up our visit at the Speaker’s Corner, a café overlooking the terrace that has an expansive view of Darwin Harbor. It was uncomfortably warm and humid, so we sat inside for a simple but very tasty lunch.

    We should have Ubered back to the hotel after lunch. But we went in search of ice cream instead. The highly-rated shop was an easy walk from Parliament House. Unfortunately, despite Google indicating it was open, the shop had a sign to the contrary. Darn. So, we continued on foot to the hotel. A mistake. We were both drained by the time we got back to our room.

    Time to rest up. Tomorrow, we depart Darwin for another train journey.
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  • JBR: The Ghan

    April 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    Today we begin one of the great train journeys of the world … The Ghan … from Darwin to Adelaide … straight through the “Red Center” of Australia.

  • Ghan: Gold Premium

    April 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    After a welcome event at the convention center, we were taken by bus to the Berrimah Rail Station … about 20-30 minute ride outside of Darwin.

    We are now settled into D5 … a Gold Premium cabin with an en suite. So, unlike on the IP, we are traveling together this time.

    Welcomed with mimosas, we are now off. Lunch in about an hour … then our first off-train experience when we reach Katherine this afternoon.
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  • Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.
    Nitmiluk Gorge — Katherine, NT. Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National ParkCruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.No crocs today, but these beaches are typical nesting areas for both fresh- and saltwater crocs.Just last week, this rock was submerged ... Cruise on the Katherine River — Nitmiluk National Park.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River on a boat similar to this one — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Cruise on the Katherine River — 1st Gorge ... Nitmiluk National Park, NT.Back at The Ghan, we get our photo op — Katherine, NT.

    Ghan: Nitmiluk Gorge

    April 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 90 °F

    The Ghan was on the move on time at 10:00a.

    We settled into our cabin to enjoy the views until lunch at 11:30a. Early, but since we had eaten only a small breakfast at the welcome event, we didn’t mind. Besides we had an off-train experience scheduled for our 2:30p arrival in Katherine.

    Nitmiluk Gorge — aka Katherine Gorge — is a 13-gorge system that meanders around the Katherine River. It is all part of Nitmiluk National Park. The gorge was formed 1,650 thousand million years ago. To put that number a different way … that is over 1.6 BILLION years old. Not surprising, I guess. Australia holds the oldest continental crust on earth … some of it over 4.4 BILLION years old.

    To get to Nitmiluk Gorge, we were bused some 19 miles east from the rail siding where the Ghan came to a stop. It was a smooth drive on a sealed road. The only delay was caused by a film crew that blocked us from continuing forward for about 10 minutes because they were in the midst of filming a scene.

    Our selected experience started with a cruise through the first gorge. Then we’d go ashore at the end of the first gorge, and while part of the group would hike a path to go on another cruise in the second gorge, we’d hike over to an Aboriginal rock art site. Here we would listen to Dreamtime stories about the creation, learn about the significance of the gorge to the Jawoyn people — the traditional caretakers of these lands — and view thousands of years old rock art that is considered to be evidence of the existence of this culture during the last Ice Age.

    Well, we only got a cruise through the first gorge. In fact, everyone got just that short cruise. The reason? High water levels. The paths we were supposed to hike were under water. So, in the end, the heavy rains from ex-Cyclone Megan, which caused major flooding all the way down to Alice Springs in the center of Australia, did impact our experience.

    It could have been worse, however. Had we arrived just a few days before, we wouldn’t have even made it to the gorge as the road from Katherine was still flooded.

    Wish there wasn’t so much smoke haze from the controlled burns nearby … which some speculated might have been timed to coincide with the movie being filmed because the screenplay required it. Nonetheless, it was a wonderful experience. That it was only around 76F to 78F in a place that regularly sees 3-digit temps … well that was a bonus.

    We returned to The Ghan with a half hour to spare before dinner … delicious food; the included adult beverages flowing freely. While we were at dinner, our cabin seating was transformed into bunk beds for the night.

    We hope for a good night’s rest before tomorrow’s busy tour schedule.
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  • Memorial to the Camel train and the Afgghans who ran it — Alice Springs, NT.
    Our Ghan at the platform — Alice Springs, NT.One of the studios used for School of the Air lessons — Alice Sprinngs, NT.School of the Air — Alice Sprinngs, NT.School of the Air — Alice Sprinngs, NT."Awurrapan (Crocodile)" by H. McCarthy — Yubu Napa Gallery in Alice Springs, NT."Seven Sisters" by A. Granites — Yubu Napa Gallery in Alice Springs, NT.Alice Springs Desert Park — Alice Springs, NT.Emu @ Alice Springs Desert Park — Alice Springs, NT."Desert Park Quilt" ... Alice Springs Desert Park — Alice Springs, NT.Northern Blue-tongue Skink ... Reptile Center — Alice Springs, NT.Frilled-neck Lizard ... Reptile Center — Alice Springs, NT.Shingleback/Sleepy Lizard ... Reptile Center — Alice Springs, NT.Central Bearded Dragon ... Reptile Center — Alice Springs, NT.Thorny Devil ... Reptile Center — Alice Springs, NT.Perentie ... Reptile Center — Alice Springs, NT.Frilled-neck lizards ... Reptile Center — Alice Springs, NT.ANZAC Hill — Alice Springs, NT.View of the town from ANZAC Hill — Alice Springs, NT.View of the town from ANZAC Hill — Alice Springs, NT.

    Ghan: A Town Called Alice

    April 4, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 75 °F

    A good night’s rest on The Ghan. A good breakfast. And we were ready for our tour of Alice Springs, the second stop of this train journey.

    Disembarking at the platform, we had a long walk to the buses … one that took us by the memorial to The Ghan. The plaque explained that work on the planned 1,800-mile rail line began in 1878. At first, the line that started in Port Augusta in the south didn’t make it further than Oodnatta … less than 500 miles to the north. From here, camel trains ferried passengers and freight some 450 miles to and from Alice Springs until the “mechanical train” finally reached Alice in 1929. Thus the train was given the moniker of The Ghan to honor the camel train and the Afghans who ran it. It wasn’t until 2004 that the entire length of the railway was completed.

    The first stop of the tour was at the “School of the Air,” which was established in 1951. It is the largest of its kind, providing educational services to remote areas covering over half a million square miles. It was the first school to use two-way radio broadcasts with pedal transmitters and receivers. Today those services continue with more modern methods — internet via satellite being the most common — but student materials are still shipped via mail.

    Our next stop was at Yubu Napa, an art gallery of Aboriginal and Australian made works, a gift shop, and a studio. One of the Aboriginal artists was painting in the studio and a representative of the gallery stood by to answer questions about the artists, how they create their works, and the inherent symbolism. Photos were allowed of the works, but not of the artist who was in the studio today.

    From the gallery, we went a little ways out of town to the Alice Springs Desert Park, which was to be our lunch stop. A buffet lunch was set up … catered by the chefs of The Ghan. Mui and I hurried through our meal so that we could go for a quick wander to see some of the animals. The timing was wrong unfortunately. The mid-day heat had the animals hiding. The only one we saw was an Emu that was patrolling the fence … perhaps waiting for its mid-day feeding.

    The Alice Springs Reptile Center was next on the agenda. Our visit started with an informative presentation about the venomous snakes of Australia. The presenter was of a humorous bent, making the presentation more interesting. He actually made us more comfortable about snakes around here by showing us how tiny the fangs are. So, as long as we wear long pants and solid footwear, and we remain on trails, we should have no adverse encounters.

    Following the presentation, we went into a room with glass cases housing many of the snake species. I admit, I skipped these and went to the outdoor exhibits to see the other reptiles — skinks, frilled-neck lizards, goannas, perenties, bearded dragons, and thorny devils — and the one resident crocodile.

    A short ride through Alice Springs gave us a look at the town. Then we went up to ANZAC Hill for an aerial view of the town before we were returned to the train station for a little bit of downtime before our evening event.
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  • Ghan: Dining Under the Stars

    April 4, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    One of the reasons we chose The Ghan Expedition over the regular train trip was the event planned for tonight at the Telegraph Station … considered the birthplace of Alice Springs.

    The Telegraph Station was established in 1871 as a relay station on the Overland Telegraph Line (OTL) between Darwin and Adelaide. The construction of the OTL is recognized as one of the great engineering achievements of the 19th century.

    The “singing wire,” as the line was known, was strung across some 1,870 miles of land that had gone largely unexplored. There were no towns along the way, so everything had to be transported overland. Eighteen months were allocated to the construction project, which began in July 1870 with the surveying of the route for the line. The northern and southern ends were connected in August 1872 … after a seven-month delay. The line had 36,000 telegraph poles and 11 repeater stations along the way. Eventually, the line was tied into the undersea network of the British Empire.

    Arriving at the Telegraph Station, we were greeted with glasses of bubbly and directed inside the building to visit the exhibits. Then, following the music from the live band, we found site where we would be dining under the stars once night fell. Tables and chairs dressed in white added elegance to the setting. Camels stood by on the far side, waiting to give us rides.

    Wine was poured … freely and frequently. We each received our own entree, which consisted of delicacies such as kangaroo chili con carne, camel köfte, and barramundi ceviche. The mains — Black Angus sirloin and chicken roulades — and sides were served family style. Dessert consisted of a gourmandise and cheese platter. There was apparently a s’mores station, but no one pointed it out or invited us to partake, so we missed that.

    A lovely mid-journey event. We will remember for a long time the ambiance of dining under the stars in the Red Center of Australia.
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  • Opal fields ... from the Manguri siding to Coober Pedy, SA.
    Opal fields ... each pile of dirt marks a mining shaft ... Manguri siding to Coober Pedy, SA.Opal fields ... from the Manguri siding to Coober Pedy, SA.Opal fields ... from the Manguri siding to Coober Pedy, SA.Opal fields ... from the Manguri siding to Coober Pedy, SA.Opal fields ... from the Manguri siding to Coober Pedy, SA.

    Ghan: Coober Pedy … Opal Mining

    April 5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    Australia isn’t the only place in the world where opals are found. But it has become pretty much the only source of opals since the 1880s … producing some 95% of the precious gem.

    Our day started at the Manguri rail siding where we detrained onto buses for our off-train experience in and around Coober Pedy … which produces more opal by mass than anywhere else.

    I’m not sure how long it usually takes to get into town when the dirt road leading from the siding in the middle of nowhere has been graded. Today it took us about 40 minutes to reach the Stuart Highway. Despite our driver’s skills, it felt like we were driving over onduline-clad roads. The noise so loud that at times he had to stop his narration.

    Nonetheless, the drive was interesting because it took us through the opal fields of the area. Distant, conical piles of dirt that we thought at first were natural land formations turned out to be piles of dirt … marking the location of some 1.5 million mine shafts that dot the landscape … many of them abandoned or played-out.

    Opal mining here dates back to 1915 when the first opal claim was staked out. But it wasn’t until after WWI that opal mining took off … when returning soldiers started to seek their fortune here. After WWII, a batch of Europeans arrived to join them. By the 1970s, the opal rush was well underway.

    In general, opal mining is done by individual miners rather than large corporations. Early miners dug their shafts by hand … 3- to 10-meters deep. They reinforced the walls with timber and then lowered themselves into the shafts to dig tunnels.

    In modern times, the digging has become mechanized. The excavated dirt is transported to a drum mounted on a truck and shot out into a pile near the shaft … those tepee-like mounds we saw today. We also saw a few open-cut mining operations, but they were few and far between.

    Luck is a huge factor in finding opals. There is no scientific way of determining where there might be an opal vein. In this respect, opal mining is different from searching for gold or diamonds. The whole endeavor is very much hit and miss … with the latter being the case more often not.

    In any event, if a miner is lucky, he finds veins of common opal (the white, non-refractive stuff), following them in hopes of finding precious opal … which then has to be extracted very carefully as the silica-based gem is very fragile. Sometimes the miner found opalized fossils of prehistoric animals and plants, many of which have been donated to museums around Australia.

    Definitely not an easy way of making one’s fortune!
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  • Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.
    Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, SA.

    Ghan: Coober Pedy … The Breakaways

    April 5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    When it was time to pick our off-train experience for Cooper Pedy, I was torn between learning more about the mining town and opals — the gemstone that is synonymous with Australia — and going out to The Breakaways, a conservation park nearby. Luckily, the “Explore Coober Pedy” tour offered a bit of both.

    Once we got off the bone-rattling dirt road from the Manguri siding and joined the Stuart Highway, we headed away from the town to visit The Breakaways … known today as the Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park. It is registered as an Aboriginal heritage site that has been handed back to its traditional custodians.

    The scene of movies such as Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome and Ground Zero, The Breakaways was so named because, from a distance, the mesas and low hills look like they have broken away from the escarpment that surrounds the area. The park protects a semi-arid landscape where summer temperatures can exceed 113F! Lucky us … it wasn’t much more than 80F today.

    Once we reached the lookout that gave us a breathtaking glimpse of the colorful scenery, we were given about 30 minutes to wander around and enjoy the scenery. Hot and cold beverages were also available for us to sip as we feasted our eyes on the scenery.

    My only regret? We didn’t get to see the infamous Dog Fence on this short stop … first built in the 1880s to keep dogs out of Western Australia … stretching some 3,500 miles across the country.
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  • Underground Church — Coober Pedy, SA.
    Underground Church — Coober Pedy, SA.Underground Church — Coober Pedy, SA.Glass Iconostasis ... Underground Church — Coober Pedy, SA.Underground Church — Coober Pedy, SA.Baptistery ... Underground Church — Coober Pedy, SA.Hand-carves baptismal pool ... Underground Church — Coober Pedy, SA.Quest Opal Mine Tour — Coober Pedy, SA.Quest Opal Mine Tour — Coober Pedy, SA.Mui trying his hand at fossicking for opal ... Quest Opal Mine Tour — Coober Pedy, SA.Air shaft ... Quest Opal Mine Tour — Coober Pedy, SA.Explosive charge holes ... Quest Opal Mine Tour — Coober Pedy, SA.Opal vein under a black light ... Quest Opal Mine Tour — Coober Pedy, SA.Lunch @ the Quest Opal Mine — Coober Pedy, SA.Umoona Opal Mine Museum — Coober Pedy, SA.Umoona Opal Mine Museum — Coober Pedy, SA.Dugout house ... by hand ... Umoona Opal Mine Museum — Coober Pedy, SA.Dugout home ... machine-excavated ... Umoona Opal Mine Museum — Coober Pedy, SA.Dugout home ... machine-excavated ... Umoona Opal Mine Museum — Coober Pedy, SA.Dugout home ... machine-excavated ... Umoona Opal Mine Museum — Coober Pedy, SA.

    Ghan: Exploring Coober Pedy

    April 5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    From The Breakaways, we headed into Coober Pedy for an introductory drive around town before making a few stops.

    Remember the potential high temperature I mentioned for the park? As high as 113F? Well the town of Coober Pedy can have similar temps. So, the townspeople live mostly underground. Even the church we visited has been excavated out of the sandstone by volunteers.

    Known simply as the underground church, the Church of Saint Elijah the Prophet is a Serbian Orthodox place of worship built in 1993 by the Serbian Australians who settled in Coober Pedy to mine for opal. The entire complex, which includes a church, community hall, a parish house, and a religious school is 9 to 55 feet below ground. The iconostasis is made of glass; bas reliefs of the saints are etched into the stone (difficult to see in the dim interior).

    From the church, we headed to the Quest Opal Mine. Here we were given a tour of the mine and tried our hand at a bit of “fossicking” (recreational prospecting) for opals … found nothing but some potch (non-refracting white opal that has no value). Then we were led into some of the old shafts where we had lunch in rooms carved out of the rock. The meal was served family-style … delicious and fun.

    Our tour wrapped up with a visit to the Umoona Opal Mine … a museum of sorts. We learned about the types of opals set into jewelry … including doublets and triplets … doublets having a backing behind a thin layer of opal; and triplets having both a backing and a clear dome that protect a paper-thin sliver of opal. Of course, solid opals are the best.

    Before finishing up in the showroom, our tour took us into an underground dugout home similar to those in which miners live even to this day. These houses are popular because the temperature is a steady 73-77F day and night … throughout the year.

    Yes, we did peruse the offerings in the showroom. Mui had done his research and knew what to look for. After some serious negotiation on his part, I walked out with a pendant … opting specifically for a Coober Pedy mined solid opal.
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  • Photo op with The Ghan — Manguri siding, SA.
    Manguri ... the siding in the midle of nowhere in South Australia.Bubbly at the Manguri siding, SA.Party at the siding — Manguri, SA.Ambiance fires serve to keep the flies at bay — Manguri siding, SA.Cheers to a great train journey — Manguri siding, SA.

    Ghan: Bubbly @ the Manguri Siding

    April 5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    There were two surprises in store for us when we returned to the Manguri siding after our Coober Pedy tour.

    First up, our bus driver drove us to the front of the train for a photo op. He knew exactly where and how to take photos of us with the train in the background. A great “memorabilia” of our Ghan journey. I only wish our train was being pulled by the iconic red engine.

    Next we found sunset bubblies and canapés awaiting us. Fires had been lit … for ambiance and to keep the infamous Red Center flies at bay.

    A fun conclusion to our day … and to our Ghan journey, which will formally end tomorrow when we reach Adelaide.
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  • Ferry … Cape Jervis to KI

    April 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The Ghan pulled into the Adelaide Parklands Terminal slightly ahead of its 10:00a scheduled arrival. Our train journey now over, we bid newly-made friends adieu, detrained, picked up our checked bags, and hopped in an Uber to the Avis rental office a few miles away.

    We were way ahead of schedule when we began the drive to Cape Jervis, the departure point for the SeaLink ferry that connects Kangaroo Island [KI] with mainland Australia. Arriving at 2:30p, we tried to stand by for the 3:00p ferry … but no luck. At least I had already gone online to switch our 6:00p reservation to 4:00p, so the wait for the next ferry wasn’t too bad.

    The 45-minute ride across the Backstairs Passage was uneventful. Before we knew it, the ferry was unloading at the terminal in Penneshaw … on KI’s Dudley Peninsula. We headed straight to our AirBNB accommodations, a lovely little house just 5 minutes out of town … with a view of Kingscote Harbour.

    While I settled in, Mui drove back into town for snacks and a bottle of wine. Munchies on the veranda before the temp dipped further was the plan. Chores could wait until later.
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  • Phil Baines sculpture from metal fossicked from KI farmyards — Penneshaw ... KI, SA.
    Community Art as History Project at the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.Community Art as History Project at the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.Community Art as History Project at the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.Community Art as History Project at the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.Community Art as History Project at the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.Community Art as History Project at the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.Community Art as History Project at the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.At the Penneshaw VC — Kangaroo Island, SA.Phil Baines sculpture from metal fossicked from KI farmyards — Penneshaw ... KI, SA.Phil Baines sculpture from metal fossicked from KI farmyards — Penneshaw ... KI, SA.

    KI: Art Around Penneshaw

    April 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    After a good night’s rest — and some dallying at Kokumi (the name by which our AirBNB is known) — we set off to do some sightseeing.

    The sky was overcast; the temp was chilly; there was rain in the forecast. Today seemed like a good day to head west and north … and wrap up in the southeast corner of Kangaroo Island (KI) where we were told we could find a mob of kangaroos near the lighthouse.

    But first we drove into Penneshaw to get some info from the visitor center. Closed until 10:00a unfortunately. We would have to make do with the island map I had picked up on the ferry.

    Our stop at the VC did bear fruit in the form of a tile mosaic on the ground … Community Art as History Project … from 1997. Metal sculptures as we drove out of town were a bonus.
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  • Photo op along Hog Bay Road — Kangaroo Island, SA.
    Birdlife on the mudflats — Kangaroo Island, SA.Gallipoli Hill — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Pennington Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Juvenile black swans — Kangaroo Island, SA.On the unsealed road to the Red Banks — Kangaroo Island, SA.The Red Banks — Kangaroo Island, SA.The Red Banks — Kangaroo Island, SA.Mobs of kangaroos at Stokes Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Kangaroo at Stokes Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.Kangaroo at Stokes Bay — Kangaroo Island, SA.

    KI: Ambling Drive & ‘Roo Mobs

    April 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    When we left Penneshaw, we had no real plan for our drive except that at some point we would stop in Kingscote for lunch.

    Getting on Hog Bay Road, one of the very few sealed roads on the island, we began our drive … stopping whenever something caught our eye … including a photo op at Gallipoli Hill and a wander at scenic Pennington Bay … one of the highlights of today.

    Leaving the sealed road behind, we then headed up to the Red Banks. This was to be our test drive on an unsealed road as Budget had told Mui not to attempt any roads that might require 4WD. Forget four wheeling, we found the unsealed road to be smoother than some of our paved highways in the USA.

    There was no description of the Red Banks. But Mui and I agreed that the name probably referred red cliffs. Turns out that we were right. The only problem? To see the cliffs, one must walk out onto a very narrow lookout that has become heavily eroded. We were very careful — Mui had a tight grip on the waist of my jeans — and got some decent views and photos. However, I don’t think that will be possible for much longer. A few more major storms will probably cause the eroded spit to crumble.

    Rather than retrace our route back to Hog Bay Road, we next opted to follow a few more unsealed roads to Kingscote. And then onto Stokes Bay where we had been told that we could see kangaroos in the wild.

    Indeed, we saw plenty of ‘roos. Because they were browsing on private lands that were fenced, we could not get very close. Nonetheless it was fun to watch them. In fact, we spent so much time with them that it was too late to hike over the rocks to see if the much-vaunted Stokes Bay Beach deserved its reputation.

    By the time we headed home it was apparent that it would be dark by the time we got to Cape Willoughby. Maybe we can fit it in tomorrow.
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  • Silo art (by C. Scale) near the entrance to town — Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, SA.
    Cactus art ... befits a restaurant named Cactus — Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, SA.Lunch at Cactus — Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, SA.The old jetty — Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, SA.Mural depicting rebirth after the devastating bushfires of 2020 — Kingscote, Kangaroo Island, SA.In Kingscote — Kangaroo Island, SA.In Kingscote — Kangaroo Island, SA.In Kingscote — Kangaroo Island, SA.In Kingscote — Kangaroo Island, SA.

    KI: Kingscote … Lunch & Art Trail

    April 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Kigscote is the largest town on Kangaroo Island — with a population of around 2,000 people. It also has the distinction of being the oldest European settlement in South Australia.

    On a cool Sunday afternoon, we found Kingscote all-but deserted. Most of the businesses were closed … and that included restaurants. Luckily, Mui’s research pointed us to Cactus, which was still serving when we arrived. A casual café atmosphere … patio seating protected from the elements … good food. We both ordered tacos and split an order of sweet potato fries.

    For dessert, we went in search of ice cream and found a shop that had what we were looking for. Yummy!

    Our meandering stroll through town then took us on parts of the Art Trail … which included colorful murals … many of them featuring kangaroos.
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  • KI: Kokumi Kangaroo

    April 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We have a kangaroo visiting us at Kokumi, the house we rented through AirBNB.

    He usually shows up when we are having breakfast and doesn't come very close ... browsing instead at the far edge of the open field where the grass is taller. Yesterday, he disappeared as soon as we stepped onto the balcony. Today, he was more tolerant of our presence.Read more

  • KI: Flinders Chase NP … Part I

    April 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    We had set this day aside to explore Flinders Chase National Park [FCNP] … some 170 miles roundtrip … on the far west side of KI.

    The plan was to drive to the farthest point and then make our way back. The GPS wanted to route us via the sealed roads, which would have taken us out of our way considerably. Instead, using the paper map I had picked up while on the ferry, I navigated us to our destination via a series of unsealed roads until it made sense to connect to the sealed South Coast Road for the remainder of the drive.

    On arriving at FCNP, we stopped at the visitor center to pay the entry fee — AUD $13pp … concession/senior not applicable to foreign visitors. The clerk at the desk then gave us the lay of the land and made recommendations on the order in which to hike and visit the sites. We didn’t have time for any real hikes … and, in fact, only managed to see a tiny corner of the vast area protected as a national park. We were delighted to see how well the flora has recovered after the devastating bushfires that decimated 96% of the park

    Rounding the corner as we left the VC, we came across a trio of kangaroos. We slowed down to give them a chance to cross. First they hopped along in front of us and jumped into the bushes. But almost immediately, they hopped out and crossed the road. They criss-crossed the road a few times before finally disappearing into the bush. A great encounter with photo ops.

    We had set out from the house this morning under overcast skies. Even had a couple of showers on our way to FCNP. Thus, resigned to another grey day, we were pleased to note the sun was periodically breaking out of the clouds as we drove further into the park.

    Our first stop was the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse … just a brief photo op. From the signage, we learned that the cape is “… a dynamic border between land and sea, constantly being shaped by the waves and wind, and dominated by the cycles of the tide.” The sea in question here is the Southern Ocean … that often-turbulent body of water that separates Antarctica from the rest of the land masses in the southern hemisphere.

    From the lighthouse, we continued down to the end of the road to stroll the boardwalk to Admiral’s Arch. The clerk at the VC had already told us that due to the construction of a new viewing platform — we would not be able to see much of the arch itself. However, there were long-nosed fur seals on the rocks … 30-40 of them at any given time. Wildlife is always an incentive.

    The boardwalk zig-zagged down at a gentle incline, so it was a pleasant stroll … our only discomfort was from the chilly wind blowing strong. Luckily, we were bundled up. In any event, the scenery was spectacular, with the ferocious Southern Ocean crashing ashore … and even filling some rock formations with water that the seals seemed to be enjoying as they played about.

    After this stop, we got back in the car to drive to Weirs Cove, considered a heritage site as this is where supplies — anything and everything from food to fuel — were delivered every three months for the lighthouse keepers back in the day. Even building materials had to be transported here by steamship, then carried 300 feet up the cliff. The construction of a “flying fox” in 1907 made the job a little easier. At least the keepers could then winch up the supplies instead of carrying them up themselves. It wasn’t until the 1940s that the first truck-delivery was made.

    It was interesting to see the ruins of the flying-fox and the store house. But what was a highlight for us here was the views. Especially since the sun brightened things for a bit … and we even had some blue patches in the sky.
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  • KI: FCNP Part II … Remarkable Rocks

    April 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    From Weirs Cove, we drove to Remarkable Rocks … one of the most popular places in Flinders Chase National Park. The good news is that today there weren’t many people crawling over the rocks like an ant colony.

    Remarkable rocks are known as a domed inselbergs … aka islands of rock … dating back some 500 million years. Weathering along fractures led to the formation of isolated blocks atop the dome. The changes are not yet complete … rain, wind, particles of salt all continue to erode and shape them.

    As we scrambled around the rocks, we found lots of interesting photo ops. The wind was ferocious at times … as you will see in the photos. But the temp was comfy. I just wish the sun was shining as the orange lichen would have added a brilliant pop of color to the scenery. Oh well … it is what it is. And at least it wasn’t raining. At least not then.

    It was only 1:00p when completed our visit to the park. Still quite early. But we wanted to stop at Seal Cove to see the Australian fur seals and then continue onto Cape Willoughby on the Dudley Peninsula to check out the mob of kangaroos we were told we could see there.

    As it turns out, we could have stayed much longer at FCNP. No sooner were we out of the park that the cloud cover thickened. And with it came heavy rain coming down in sheets that veiled the scenery. So, we ended up driving straight back to the AirBNB instead … to do laundry and prepare for tomorrow’s departure.
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  • KI: Sculpture Trail

    April 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Once again we woke up to overcast skies. At least there was no rain in the forecast.

    Our AirBNB check-out deadline was 10:00a. Our re-scheduled ferry was at 11:30a, with check-in NLT 11:00a. We were out of the house shortly after 8:00a … having had a quick breakfast first. Why? We had some sightseeing plans.

    First up was the Kangaroo Island Sculpture Trail in Penneshaw … where we were greeted by a Tammar wallaby … native to South and Western Australia … and one of the smallest of the wallabies. Little did we know then that we’d be seeing plenty of them on our meandering walk.

    The 1-mile long trail turned out to be more of a garden/park with paved and dirt paths meandering through the grounds … a bush walk of sorts. The sign described the gradients as short, steep hills with many steps. We found it to be a comfortable trail and negotiated it with no difficulties.

    The park is an ongoing project, with sculptures being added as funding permits. In addition to the sculptures, there are haikus by a local poet — Bev Willson — hidden in nooks and crannies around the grounds. Fun.
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  • Sheep Station outside Penneshaw — Kangaroo Island, SA.
    Our ride back to the mainland arrives — Penneshaw SeaLink Terminal ... Kangaroo Island, SA.On the ferry at the SeaLink Terminal in Penneshaw — Kangaroo Island, SA.Atura Hotel @ ADL — Adelaide, SA.View of the airport from our room at the Atura Hotel @ ADL — Adelaide, SA.City skyline from our room at the Atura Hotel @ ADL — Adelaide, SA.Dinner @ the Hangar @ Atura Hotel @ ADL — Adelaide, SA.

    Bye Bye KI … Hello Adelaide

    April 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    As we were leaving the Sculpture Trail in Penneshaw, one of the volunteers mentioned that we’d find a mob of kangaroos at the end of the road.

    With about 45 minutes to spare before we had to check in for the ferry to the mainland, we decided to see if we could find them. Alas none to be seen anywhere. But we did see sheep that weren’t leery of people approaching the fence line.

    The 45-minute ferry ride was uneventful, though there was quite a bit of motion of the ocean when the vessel reached the mid-point of the Backstairs Passage. Before we knew it, the announcement was being made for the drivers to go to their vehicles to prepare for disembarkation.

    A smooth drive to Adelaide … slow until we got to a passing lane where we could get ahead of a semi-full of sheep that had crossed over on the ferry with us. Traffic in the suburbs was slow going and it was 2:30p by the time we made it to the airport.

    With an early flight on the 11th, I had opted to book us into Atura, the airport hotel that is attached to the terminal instead of staying in the city. Turned out to be a good choice. Our room is small … but with all the amenities we need. A modern ambiance with simple but colorful furnishings. The bonus? Returning the car to Budget was easy … just a short walk back to the hotel once we had accomplished that task.

    We spent the afternoon relaxing. I managed to do some catch-up bookkeeping until the kitchen opened and dinner service began at 5:00p. The Hangar is an open-concept restaurant in the lobby. We were resigned to typical airport hotel food, but were pleasantly surprised by both the taste and the presentation. We shared a variety of dishes and a sweet treat.

    Tomorrow is a sightseeing day in the city. We plan to check out what we didn’t have time for when we visited Adelaide off the Regatta in January.
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  • Beautiful stained glass window at the South Australian Museum — Adelaide, SA.
    Headdress made from sticks, hair string, and emu feathers ... SAM — Adelaide, SA."Mulga Seed" by P. Nampijinpa ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Owl figure pot by K.P. Enalanga ... SAM — Adelaide, SA."Kondoli, the Keeper of Fire" ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Mother of pearl carving ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Tiwi Island funeral poles used in Pukumani ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Bark paintings by Kunwinjku artist G. Djayhgurrnga ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Replica of room in Mawson's Antarctic cabin ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Hollows left by Dickinsonia specimens on the sea floor ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Cryogenian stromatolite reefs ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Collage of mineral samples ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Pieces of two meteorites that fell on Australia ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Opalized collarbone of a small plesiosaur from Coober Pedy ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.The Addyman Pleiosaur is estimated as being 115 million years old ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Coffin lid for Osiris-Nakht... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Trobriand Island kula trading canoe ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Helmut mask from Papua New Guinea ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.Memorial poles from Central Asmat ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.From Papua New Guinea ... SAM — Adelaide, SA.

    Adelaide: South Australian Museum

    April 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    When we decided to book the Atura Hotel @ Adelaide Airport, we knew we would need transportation to get into the city today to do a bit of sightseeing. Our research showed that there were two public buses that left from the airport that would work for us … a 5-minute walk from the hotel.

    So, after breakfast, we walked over to the bus stop, bought our day passes, hopped on the J2 bus, got off on Greenfell Street in the CBD, and cut through Rundle Mall to get to the South Australian Museum (SAM) … with a short coffee break at Caffe da Marco since we had some time to kill before the museum opened at 10:00a.

    Google bills SAM as a natural history museum. It is more than that. Exhibits range from the first signs of early complex life and some of the oldest rocks in the world (3,600 million years old), to a comprehensive collection of Aboriginal culture, to minerals from all over the world and Australian meteorites, to taxidermied animals, to artifacts from Pacific Cultures, to the Australian Polar Collection … heavily focused on Mawson’s expedition, to Ancient Egypt artifacts … including a couple of mummies, and more.

    We thoroughly enjoyed the museum … and were especially left in awe of the Addyman Plesiosaur, the finest known opalized fossil anywhere in the world.
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  • Adelaide: 18th Biennial @ AGSA

    April 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Next door to the South Australian Museum is AGSA … Art Gallery of South Australia.

    Since we had visited the museum in January, we had no plans to go there again. But then I noticed the banner announcing a new exhibit … “Inner Sanctum” … the 18th Adelaide Biennial of Australian Art … “… offering a snapshot of contemporary Australia that is reflective and hopeful.”

    So, we went in for a Quick Look-see.

    Interesting … colorful … and in some cases, thought provoking.
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  • Gatehouse ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.
    The Okunoin Lantern ... presented to Adelaide by Himeji City ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Okunoin Lantern ... with a friendship inscription ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Detail from the Okunoin Lantern ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.S'ensui (the Lake) ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.S'ensui (the Lake) ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Misakidoro (Lantern) ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.S'ensui (the Lake) ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Tsukiyama (the Mountain) & waterfall ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Japanese Anemone ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Kare S'ensui (Sea of Sand) ... a place of meditation ... Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Himeji Garden — Adelaide, SA.Sunset from our room at the hotel — Atura @ ADL ... Adelaide, SA.Sunset from our room at the hotel — Atura @ ADL ... Adelaide, SA.

    Adelaide: Himeji Garden

    April 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    As we were leaving the Southern Australia Museum, we noticed a banner at the Art Gallery of South Australia next door. It was promoting the 18th Adelaide Biennial of Australian Art. After taking a quick peek, we continued with our plan to visit Himeji Garden … a short Uber ride from the CBD.

    As one might guess from the name, this is a Japanese Garden. It symbolizes the sister city relationship between Adelaide and Himeji. Hidden behind a hedge just inside the gatehouse — which is modeled on a temple — one has no idea what to expect until you round the corner. And then … behold the beauty of grounds designed using Japanese garden principles.

    Himeji Garden is small, but has features that are of great religious significance to the Japanese people. It blends two classic garden styles. One is the “s’ensui,” … a lake and mountain garden where water and the imagination create images of vastness of grandeur. The second is the“kare s’ensui” … a dry garden where rocks and sand evoke the presence of water, even the sea itself.

    The s’ensui — or the lake — is the heart of the garden. It is shaped like the character “shin,” which means heart or soul. The calm water suggests purity and tranquility of the heart, which Buddhists believe is necessary to reach enlightenment and ultimate happiness. The water that flows into the s’ensui from a waterfall is intended to recall the wild mountain torrents of Japan.

    We wandered the trails winding through the garden, using a brochure we found at the entrance to identify the various features that make the garden so special.

    To get back to our hotel at ADL, we first took a bus from Himeji Garden to Grenfell Street in the CBD. Our timing was good and we managed to get on Bus 157 without too much of a wait, get off at the Grenfell Avenue stop, walk to stop #U2, and hop on the next J2 bus to ADL. Adelaide has a great public transportation system.

    Arriving at the airport, we walked back to the hotel for a bit of time downtime to relax and organize our bags for our Darwin flight tomorrow. Before we knew it, the sun was setting off in the distance … giving us a colorful wrap-up to our day.
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