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In the Footsteps of Franklin
  • Two to Travel

In the Footsteps of Franklin

After eight years of being away from the polar regions, we will be scratching our "Ice Itch" with a Quark Expeditions voyage that will take us into the Canadian High Arctic. Read more
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  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Yummy chocolate treats.
    Lectures are fun ... disembarkation information not so much, but necessary.

    Davis Strait: Kangerlussuaq Bound

    August 15, 2022, Davis Strait ⋅ 🌧 43 °F

    “We’re homeward bound I hear them say …” ~~ From Goodbye Fare Thee Well Sea Shanties

    The above is the first line from the quote featured on today’s daily program. And indeed, we are homeward bound. We’ve left Baffin Bay and are in the Davis Strait now. Close to the shoreline of Greenland … getting close to our disembarkation in Kangerlussuaq tomorrow.

    Our day featured some lectures in the morning.

    Ken kicked things off with a presentation entitled “Ghosts of Cape Sabine” … an account of the disastrous Greeley Expedition of 1881 … filled with adventure, abandonment, and human tragedy. Then, Sam spoke to us about “Hoods, Beards, Rings, Harps and Walrus: Seals of the Arctic” … a review of the phocids (true seals) and otariids (eared seals) … only a few of which we saw on this voyage.

    The disembarkation briefing came right before lunch. We now have a general feel for tomorrow’s schedule. It’s good to see that we won’t be kicked off the ship bright and early. For the eagle-eyed readers who will notice a flight to Copenhagen … no worries, that’s not for us. This is the solution for those passengers who don’t have visas to enter the USA at Niagara Falls International Airport on the regular charter flight/bus transfer arrangements.

    We started out the afternoon with a session called “Baffin Bay Banter” … a time for shipmates to regale us with their own adventures. I considered participating by talking about either our polar bear encounters in Churchill; our brown bear encounters in Alaska; or our North Pole trip on 50 Let Pobedy. But the wifi wasn’t strong enough for me to download photos to accompany the words. Should we find ourselves on another Quark expedition, I will go prepared.

    Then we began what I would describe as “expedition-in-review” sessions.

    First up was a “Chocolate Bar and Bubbly with Photo Show” … designed to have us “admire” images taken by staff and guests these past two weeks. A few hours later, we had the Captain’s Cocktail Party … for final cheers.

    Our post-dinner get together featured a slideshow … a look-back on our journey. Dave did a great job. That said, I have a bone to pick with our shipmates. Namely that participation in the photo journal on this expedition was abysmal. I checked the laptops set aside for sharing purposes — a PC and a MAC — every few days to upload my contribution of 5-6 photos Dave had asked us to share. Rarely was there more than a few others in the folder. While it was fun to see my photos in the slideshow, it was a shame there weren’t more from others as such sharing gives everyone a different perspective.

    (Speaking of the photo journal … in the past, we’ve received this information on a CD. This time, everything, including daily programs, lectures, photos, etc., will be uploaded online for us to download … in about 4-6 weeks we were told.)

    Thus we’ve officially wrapped up the expedition. Our bags are packed and ready to be put outside the door tomorrow morning. One more sleep left on the Ultramarine.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Back where our journey started two weeks ago — Kangerlussuaq Fjord, Greenland.
    Adventure Canada is hiding behind Scenic Eclipse — Kangerlussuaq Fjord, Greenland.The checked-bags are already at the airport ... the zodiacs are ready to transport the passengers.

    Kangerlussuaq: Back Where We Started

    August 16, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Ultramarine was quietly sailing up the fjord when we woke up at 6:30a. By the time we finished our breakfast, the ship was at its anchorage.

    Nearby, Scenic Eclipse was preparing to exchange passengers in preparation for its next Greenland expedition. Adventure Canada was not far away … its Arctic Canada expedition impacted by charter flight troubles as well.

    Our tummies sated, we returned to the cabin, set our checked bags outside, and went to find a comfy spot to while away the hours until disembarkation. The Panorama Lounge on deck 7 forward afforded fjord views, a fairly strong cell signal with our T-Mobile phones, and outlets to plug-in our devices. Perfect.

    Yes, perfect. Except that the P/A came alive to advise us that our departure schedule had been revised. You see, Kangerlussuaq Airport is quite small … and there was only one agent to check us all in for the charter flight. Airport authorities wanted us there earlier. Lunch was to be moved up to 11:00a … zodiac transfers to take us ashore were going to start at 12:30p.

    Alrighty then. Better go for a walk on the outer decks to stretch our legs and burn off the breakfast calories.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    The red arrow points to Resolute ... from where we were supposed to fly back to Toronto originally.

    Our Navigation Map

    August 16, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    On a wall in the corridor leading to the Restaurant is the navigation map for our journey. It’s updated with our noon position each day.

    Too bad it doesn’t show us going all the way to Resolute (approximate location marked with a red arrow).Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Two weeks ago we embarked zodiacs here to go to the ship. Now we will reverse the process.

    Ashore in Kangerlussuaq Fjord

    August 16, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    We were called down to the zodiacs by our groups. Fram was to be second.

    Mui and I headed down to the ready room soon after the first group was called so that we could put on our wet gear. Yes, if was calm outside … but why risk getting wet when it’s so easy to slip on rain pants. By the time our group was called, we were ready to get in line for the next zodiac.

    And now we’re sitting on the bus … waiting for it to fill up so we can head ashore. One or two more zodiacs should do it.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    This sign post is what drew me outside ... and what led to us finding the picnic table.
    So much nicer to sit outside at this picnic table than indoors — Kangerlussuaq Airport.See the yellow parkas deplaning? We'll be taking their seats soon — Kangerlussuaq Airport.View from the aircraft door from our seats in the first row — Kangerlussuaq Airport.

    Aboard NCR716 @ SFJ

    August 16, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    We’re onboard the National Airlines charter plane … comfy in our first row seats … with plenty of legroom for what we’ve been told will be a flight exactly 4 hours in duration. Everyone else is in their seats as well. We are all ready to take off from SFJ (Kangerlussuaq Airport). Except that the headcount for the number of souls onboard is not jiving with the manifest. While that’s being worked out, I’m going to catch up on my writing.

    Our bus was the first to leave the pier for the 30-minute or so bumpy ride to the airport. Wouldn’t you know it, there was one more glitch in this last bit of our journey. Just as we were in sight of the airport, there was a loud bang. Suddenly, the bus grew quiet … I don’t mean the passengers but the vehicle itself. It felt like we were gliding. Never did find out what the problem was, but luckily we had enough forward momentum to roll up to near the terminal entrance. Last glitch 🤞🏻🤞🏻

    Anyway, we grabbed our checked bags from where they were lined up and went to the check-in counter. There were no signs to tell us where to go, but luckily one of the agents pointed us in the right direction. I’m grateful we were amongst the first to check in as the line behind us quickly grew with fellow-passengers.

    The airport is small … but busy. The seats in the waiting room were already taken by other passengers waiting for their flights to be called. Luckily the day was warm enough that Mui and I found a picnic table where we could while away the time and watch the planes land and take off.

    When the National Airlines plane landed, we made our way through the security checkpoint and pretty much straight into the boarding queue since there were no seats available. Luckily, the incoming Quark passengers — only 69 we were told — deplaned quickly straight onto the buses waiting to take them straight to the pier. It wasn’t a long standing-wait before we were called to board the aircraft.

    And that catches up the footprints for the day thus far. The Quark rep has worked out the manifest issues and the cabin door is now closed. Time to pay attention to the safety briefing that is about to start.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Welcome to IAG — Niagara Falls International Airport, New York.

    Welcome to IAG

    August 16, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    … IAG being Niagara Falls International Airport.

    After an uneventful 4-hour flight — with two beverage services and two boxed-meal services — we made a smooth landing at IAG. Being in the first row, we were first off the plane … after the “expensive-suite passengers” deplaned from the first class cabin.

    Customs and Border Control officers, who came on the plane to give us instructions, escorted us to the small building at the far end from where our aircraft was parked. Being fairly “spry” we made it to the building before most and quickly went through the immigration process. Then back to where the aircraft sat … the transfer buses to Toronto nearby.

    Our checked bags were cleared as a group before they were offloaded from the plane and brought to us where we waited near the buses.

    I’ve been using the hour or so it took for everyone to complete the formalities and find their seats on the bus to write this little bit. There is plenty of room between the three buses Quark has chartered to take us to Toronto. So we all have two seats to ourselves.

    It will be good to be able to spread out for the ride that we’ve been told will take somewhere between 2½ to 3 hours. It will depend on what we encounter at the Rainbow Bridge border checkpoint. The Quark rep on our bus said that it took them about 20 minutes to enter the US this morning. Fingers crossed we have a similarly fast experience, too.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    A not-great snapshot of Niagara Falls from a moving bus as we make our way across the bridge.
    Not much longer and we can finally remove our masks — En route to Toronto, Canada.

    Welcome to Canada

    August 16, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Thirty minutes after leaving Niagara Falls International Airport, we were getting off the bus at the Canadian border checkpoint … no stop at the US checkpoint.

    Being on the first bus to arrive at the border, the formalities were quick and easy. We even had time to use the facilities while the bus was being cleared. By 9:30p, as the other buses arrived and the queue at the checkpoint grew a bit longer, we were on our way to Toronto.

    The traffic is flowing smoothly. Our Quark rep has distributed bottles of water and snacks for what’s left of our ride. Google Girl — as a friend has named the Google Maps Navigation app — is giving our arrival time at the Sheraton YYZ as being around 11:00p. Earlier than we were anticipating. That’s a good thing!    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Intended for incoming expeditioners, I know ... but it works for us, too — Sheraton YYZ.

    Back @ the Sheraton

    August 16, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    We did indeed arrive at the Sheraton before 11:00p … about 10:45p, in fact. Quark reps were on hand to help us. They had already checked us in and had our keycards handy for distribution. Ten minutes after getting off the bus, we were in our room.

    With a 4:30a wake up call for the 5:55a shuttle to YYZ tomorrow morning, all we wanted was to fall into bed to grab as many winks as we could. Easier said than done. We are both too wired and need to relax first.

    Mui is playing around with the TV, trying to get it off the On Demand channel where it seems to be stuck. I am adding this last bit to today’s story and will do a bit of reading … something boring that might cause my eyelids to shutter themselves.

    One more travel day awaits us … hopefully, if all goes as planned, not nearly as long as today was.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    A glimpse of YYZ as our aircraft waits for its turn to take off — YYZ, Toronto.

    Bye Bye Toronto

    August 17, 2022 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    A short but good night’s rest saw us up at 4:30a … in the lobby at 5:45a … on the airport shuttle at 5:55a. We had no time for breakfast — even if service had been available at that hour. After all, we did not know what kind of chaos might be awaiting us at YYZ.

    Turns out that it was all easy-peasy … aided by arriving at the airport early. Our passage through the the formalities — from baggage check-in, to security, to re-entry into the US thanks to the Customs and Border Patrol presence at YYZ — was all efficient. The re-entry could have been problematic as the line at the CBP kiosks snaked around and was several layers deep. We once again sent multiple thanks up to the Global Entry gods for easing our way.

    Twenty minutes after entering the airport, we were at our gate … with plenty of time to relax and munch on goodies in lieu of the breakfast we missed at the hotel.

    Boarding was called at 8:20a … also quick and easy thanks to the priority boarding perk that comes with our credit card. And here we are now … waiting for everyone to take their seats so we can begin winging our way to Denver.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Hello DEN ... it's nice to be back — Denver, Colorado.

    Hello Denver

    August 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    As UA463 waits for its assigned gate at DEN to be freed up, a quick note to acknowledge our early arrival in Colorado.

    Our flight was an uneventful one … comfortable with not only plenty of legroom, but just the two of us across three seats since no one showed up to claim the window seat in our row.

    Next up … claiming our bags and finding the shuttle for the off-airport parking lot where our CR-V awaits us.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    The shuttle bus is at the stop when we arrive — DEN ... Denver, CO.
    A private bus ride? We'll take it — DEN ... Denver, CO.

    Private Shuttle to the Pikes Peak Lot

    August 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Really, we weren’t expecting a private bus ride to pick up our car from the parking lot. But that’s what we got.

    Considering all the travel horror stories the media have regaled us with this summer, we were expecting a mess. But no. The airport was quite deserted … our bags were all delivered to the carousel without delay … and the shuttle bus to the parking lot was seemingly waiting for us to show up before the driver closed the doors and engaged the gears.

    Even the freeway is flowing well as we head south. I think we’ll stop for lunch along the way to treat ourselves and celebrate a good travel day.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Delicious food ... good service. This is what keeps bringing us back to La Casa Fiesta — Monument.

    La Casa Fiesta … Yumm!

    August 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Some of the best Mexican food we’ve found in Colorado is at La Casa Fiesta in Monument … not far from our house. The food is always good … the service is efficient without making us feel like they want us to eat and run.

    Usually, we combine a meal at this restaurant with ice cream from a place just down the road a bit. This time, we decided to try the tres leches cake. Hmmm … it’s going to be hard next time to decide between the yummy ice cream at Lolley’s and the yummy tres leches at La Casa Fiesta.    Read more

  • Two to TravelIn the Footsteps of FranklinTwo to Travel
    Stroopwafel, a gooey caramel treat warmed up with the steam from a cup of hot tea.

    We’re Home!

    August 17, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    … and we’re relaxing with a cup of tea and a stroopwafel warmed up by the steam rising from the cup. This Dutch delicacy is compliments of United. It was one of the two options when the beverage cart came around on our YYZ-DEN flight.

    Thus our adventure to the Canadian High Arctic is over. It wasn’t the expedition we set out for when we left the house on 29 July. But it is the one that we were dealt.

    So be it. You make the most of what you’re handed unless you want to make yourself miserable. Go with the flow always works best and that’s what we did.    Read more

    Trip end
    August 17, 2022
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