• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

North to Alaska By RV 2021

With the US-Canada border closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we decided to ship our RV and toad to Anchorage and fly ourselves there to embark on a 14-week trip ... including the travel time required to get us to/from Tacoma. Читать далее
  • Jetboating on the Copper River

    14 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    The Copper River — known as the Ahtna River by the people of the same name — is some 290 miles long and drains into the Gulf of Alaska near Cordova. This fast-moving river is the 10th largest in the US … based on the amount of water discharged at its mouth.

    The water was lower than usual today, likely because the glaciers here haven’t been seeing much sun recently, thus melting at a slower rate. That did not mean that it was flowing any less faster. One needs a powerful boat to be able to negotiate the strong currents. Lucas’ jetboat was able to do just that.

    Stopping for photo ops was not really possible … nor was slowing down as the danger of drifting was very real. Hence, just a few photos to share from the ride.
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  • Childs Glacier

    14 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Mui and I have visited many-a glacier … all over the world … from the north to the south. We’ve cruised by these amazing rivers of ice. We’ve flown over them. We’ve hiked on them. We’ve sat with them. We’ve listened to them pop and crackle. We’ve watched them calve huge amounts of ice with thunderous booms.

    Something about Childs Glacier, however, made today’s experience very special. Something that I have yet to put my finger on. Not that the reason really matters. It’s the experience itself that counts. It’s what I will remember.

    First we cruised by the glacier in the jetboat. Then, we tied up ashore and hopped in Lucas’s van to go to the day-use and campground facilities built and overseen by the National Forest Service. Here, Lucas built a fire that Mui tended as we ate our self-catered picnic and sat enjoying the peaceful serenity that comes with being at one with nature.

    I don’t know where the campers who had set up their tents under the picnic shelter were, but I am glad that we had the entire area to ourselves … except for the Forest Service personnel working on cleaning up the winter storm debris. Our only problem? The mosquitoes that were swarming! Not expecting the pesky bugs, we’d left our bug jackets and repellent in the hotel. Thank goodness Lucas ventures nowhere without his Deet.
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  • Million Dollar Bridge

    14 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    After leaving Childs Glacier, Lucas drove us across the Miles Glacier Bridge — aka the Million Dollar Bridge — and we walked back across it. Along the way, Lucas told us a bit about the history of the bridge. He pointed out how an iceberg in 2016 sent the icebreaker protecting the first pier of the bridge off kilter, leaving it unprotected. He also showed us the repaired sections of the bridge that have yet to be painted.

    I found the bridge and its history quite fascinating. Here’s a bit more about it.

    Back in the early 1900s, after copper was found in Kennecott, the owners of the mine needed a means for transporting the ore 196 miles to Cordova to load on ships bound for smelting facilities in Tacoma, Washington. To that end, they built rail access between the mill town and the port town. The Million Dollar Bridge, was a part of the rail system and served to carry trains over the Copper River.

    In 1958, 20 years after the mine in Kennecott shut down, work began to convert the train bridge to a road bridge. The idea was to connect Cordova by road to the rest of Alaska. Alas, the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 put paid to those plans when the fourth span of the bridge slipped off its foundation.

    In 2004, the damaged span was jacked up and repaired. The bridge continues to be maintained as its collapse into the Copper River would not only mean there would be no chance of Cordova ever getting a road link, but it also would cause an environmental disaster since the original paint on the bridge has a heavy lead content.

    Alas, access to the bridge is currently by jetboat only because of a washed out bridge around mile 36 of the Copper River Highway and damage to the road around mile 45.
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  • Miles Glacier

    14 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    After our walk across the Million Dollar Bridge, we were supposed to get a presentation by a Forest Service Ranger about the sonar system used to count salmon in the Copper River. Alas, something must have come up and he was a no show.

    So we continued on to the next part of our tour … Miles Glacier. Hopping in the jetboat, we motored over to Miles Lake. First we stopped at an ice cave. It’s never smart to enter an ice cave … especially one that is showing evidence of melting. It was interesting to see the deep blue in the depths of the cave.

    We never got close to Miles Glacier … it was impressive nonetheless. What was even more impressive were the icebergs calved off of it … huge pieces that were jaw-dropping in their size. I just wish we had something that would have provided perspective for what our eyes beheld.
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  • Day 73 Ends w/Dinner @ RFI

    14 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Tired after our early wake up and long day on the Copper River, we opted to dine in house at the Reluctant Fisherman. Very tasty food … good service.

    Tomorrow we’re going to explore around time … no need for an early call to get going.

    ———————————————

    For those interested in such things, I ordered Alaskan White, one of my favorite beers in Alaska. Mui had the halibut fish & chips (yes, once again); I opted for the seafood Alfredo for a change of pace.
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  • Hartney Bay

    15 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    After a filling breakfast at the hotel, we set off to explore Cordova and its environs. We got off to a late start unfortunately, as we wanted to iron out the car rental issues first.

    On the recommendation of our server at the restaurant, we drove out to Hartney Bay.

    The mudflats of the Copper River Delta at this bay are a popular stopover for shorebirds heading to Alaska from South America. If there were any shorebirds, they were too far out for us to see, but there were a lot of glaucous-winged gulls for us to enjoy watching.
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  • Lunch @ the Whale’s Tale @ Orca

    15 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    At the end of Cannery Road is the Orca Adventure Lodge, which is located on a property that once housed a whaling station and cannery. But that’s not why we drove the road. Our destination was a coffee shop on the property … the Whale’s Tale.

    I’d read that this was a good place for a light lunch … soup only on the menu … today it was tomato bisque served with grilled cheese croutons. As well, we wanted to see the waterfall that we were told was visible by going out onto the pier.

    Neither the food nor the view disappointed.
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  • Gulls & A Bald Eagle

    15 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    On the way back from the Orca Lodge, we stopped at the fish cleaning station on Cannery Road to enjoy views of the inlet.

    There were plenty of glaucous-winged gulls nearby … waiting for a fisherman or two to show up and give them some fish scraps.

    Imagine our surprise when we stepped closer to the shore and found ourselves staring at a bald eagle. Not sure if the damage to his right eye causes him any problems fishing, but he sure was watching the water carefully … and he was very patient with us trying to take photos and videos of him. (Of course, it could have been a her, too.)
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  • Cordova Center

    15 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    We were hoping to visit the Ilanka Cultural Center on Cordova’s waterfront, but it was closed to the public … perhaps because of the COVID-19 outbreak that was the hot news item today.

    Instead, we went to the Cordova Center, a multi-use facility that amongst other things, houses the Cordova Historical Museum. In light of the COVID-19 outbreak, we were especially pleased to have the place mostly to ourselves … and we wore our masks though it wasn’t required for those who are vaccinated.

    We enjoyed not only the exhibits, which included interesting historic exhibits, but also the art gallery that is attached to the museum.
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  • Early Dinner @ the Powder House

    15 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Since Mui had agreed to an early lunch that consisted of soup, I agreed to an early dinner.

    Our new-friend Cobilynn, from yesterday’s jetboat tour, and Lucas, the tour operator, both recommended we try the Powder House, which overlooks Eyak Lake. So that’s where we headed.

    This is a very casual eatery … bar and grill. It is founded on the original site of the Copper River Railroad’s dynamite powder storage house.

    We both wanted salmon … after all we’re in Copper River Country. But, as has been the case everywhere so far, none was to be had. So, we both ordered the delicious halibut tacos, garnished with red cabbage instead of lettuce. I once again got the Alaskan White beer … which has become a favorite of mine because it is very light and not in the least malty.
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  • Day 74 Ends on the Deck @ RFI

    15 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    The sun was out and the skies were blue when we left the Powder House, so we decided to go for a drive on the Copper River Highway. But, the further down the road we got, the more clouds filled the sky.

    So, we turned around and went into town instead, driving out a bit towards the fish cleaning station on the Cannery Road to see if the bald eagle had returned. It hadn’t; but the gulls were still there … ever-hopeful for a fish scrap or two,

    The Reluctant Fisherman Inn boasts that it has the best deck in town. So, when we got back to the hotel, we decided to drop off our stuff in the room and have a drink overlooking the harbor. Though the sun played peek-a-boo for a while, eventually the blue skies won out.

    We would have stayed on the deck longer, but with a 6:00a check-in for the return ferry tomorrow, our bed beckoned us early.
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  • Back to Whittier

    16 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    The current AK Marine Highway schedule for the Cordova-Whittier ferry has the departure scheduled for 7:00a … with a 6:00a check-in. Ugh.

    This time, we opted for one of the booths with a table … at the rear of the forward lounge on the M/V Aurora. The seats were more comfortable and Mui managed to sleep for a couple of hours since there were no armrests between the seats.

    It was an uneventful ferry ride. Our only real wildlife encounter was a pod of Dall porpoises that played near the ferry for a while. Otherwise, the critters — mostly sea otters — were quite distant.

    I read, I wrote … I read some more. I went for a walk around the boat. Before I knew it, the 7-hour ferry ride was over and we were pulling into Whittier.
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  • Thru the Tunnel @ Whittier

    16 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Once the M/V Aurora was docked at the ferry terminal in Whittier, we were first off the boat.

    Hot-footing it through the underground passageway for pedestrians, we got ourselves over to the parking lot where the Cruiser and toad were awaiting us. Without delay, we hopped in and made our way to the staging area for the 2:00p traffic-release through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel.

    While we waited for our turn, we enjoyed the scenery … which included a waterfall and the Learnard Glacier.
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  • Day 75 Ends @ Fred Meyer in Soldotna

    16 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Had we not jiggled our plans last week, we would have been heading from Whittier to Seward. But we did. So we headed to Homer instead … two days before our reservation at a campground on the Spit.

    The Kenai Peninsula is hot stuff this time of the year … with salmon and halibut runs bringing anglers from near and far. So, when we decided to head to Homer, we called to see if the campground had space. No can do for tonight … yes, for tomorrow.

    With no real plan in place, we drove 108 miles from Whittier to Soldotna … discussing options as we made our way there. Both the Seward and Sterling highways were busy with RVs and boats trailered behind vehicles of all kinds. The campgrounds along the way did not appeal. Nor were there any turnouts to take advantage of. So we decided to do what a lot of RVers do when they arrive in Soldotna … we boondocked at Fred Meyer.

    The parking lot was a-buzz with activity at first, but it’s been quieting down quickly. To reciprocate the courtesy overnight parking, we did a bit of needed shopping earlier and are ready to settle down for the night.
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  • Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church

    17 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    In 2001, I was doing research for our first trip to Alaska. That’s when I saw a photo of the very picturesque Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord Chapel … more commonly referred to as the Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church. Built in 1901, it replaced an older church that was built when Ninilchik was founded in 1846.

    We didn’t have time to get down to Ninilchik then. Nor did we have time to do so in 2010. So, I wanted to make sure that we would visit it this year. Turns out, it was easy to do so as the church is accessible just off the Sterling Highway.

    Taking advantage of the beautiful blue-sky day, we stopped for a quick look-see on our way to Homer from Soldotna. A highly-anticipated stop that met and exceeded our expectations.
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  • Settled (Temporarily) @ Heritage RV Park

    17 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    When we called the Heritage RV Park on the Homer Spit to see if they could accommodate us early, they said, “No, on Friday … Yes, on Saturday.”

    But there was a caveat. We had to take a back-in site for one night. Knowing how crowded the Homer Spit is this time of the year, we said we would take the available spot. Not ideal, but something we can deal with until we move to our pre-reserved beachfront site tomorrow. The nice thing about the particular site we’re in is that there is a wedge of green space that makes it seem more spacious.

    Heritage is a popular RV park because of its location on the 4.5-mile long Spit … walking distance to outfitters, the small boat harbor, shops, and eateries. The FHU sites are narrow, but if you take the time to park right (not all do) there is a surprising amount of patio space. That said, this is one of those campgrounds where we would only stay (long term), or recommend to others, if one can snag a beachfront site.
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  • Day 76 Ends @ Fresh Catch

    17 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Well, actually the day ended with us doing three loads of laundry at Heritage RV Park, but before that we drove down the Homer Spit to get our bearings. While we were at it, we stopped to get a bite to eat.

    Of the various eateries on the Spit, we opted for Fresh Catch Café. One of the things we appreciated about the place is that indoor dining is open only to those who are vaccinated. It also had a quieter ambiance.

    We were hoping for salmon, but as has been the case everywhere we’ve been to, it wasn’t on the menu today … maybe next week. No matter. The halibut fish and chips was great … and the carrot cake was quite yummy.
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  • Moving to the Beachfront

    18 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    When we made our reservation at Heritage RV Park on the Homer Spit it was for a beachfront site … arriving today. But then, we came a day early, so we spent last night in a back-in front. It was OK for one night, but we wouldn’t have been happy there for a week-long stay.

    So, as soon as our assigned FHU pull-in site — #118 — was vacated this morning, we moved in. Ahhh … so much nicer.

    The sites look tight, but if parked right, there is a surprising amount of patio space … plus the fire ring area, which is in front of the site … overlooking the beach and Kachemak Bay. An added advantage with this site is that there is a beach-access path on the driver’s side, which makes the site feel even more spacious.

    Methinks we will enjoy this site. Now, if only the smoke haze from Siberian wildfires would dissipate so we can enjoy the mountain views without the filmy haze.
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  • Katmai: The Scenery

    18 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    Since we had done a week-long boat-based trip to coastal Katmai National Park & Preserve to sit with and photograph bears in 2010, our initial plans did not include a bear watching trip this time.

    But then … well, we jiggled things to include a day-trip to inland Katmai, which is accessible from Homer by plane. So, I booked an afternoon floatplane trip with Trent, owner/pilot of Adventure Airways.

    The plan … fly out to Brooks Lodge from Beluga Lake in Homer on a six-passenger De Havilland Beaver; hike to Brooks Falls; photograph bears; fly back to Homer.

    Joining us on this tour were four others — a threesome from Maryland/Virginia and a young man from Romania. Mui and I were given the “love seat” in the tail of the aircraft, which turned out to be great since we had more space than the three who had to share the middle seat and with a window each, I could take photos from both sides of the plane.

    Our take off from Beluga Lake was smooth … our flight over Cook Inlet to Katmai was smooth … our landing on Naknek Lake was smooth. The scenery we flew over was breathtaking … the only disappointment was all the wildfire smoke haze blowing in from Eastern Siberia … no crisp views of the volcanoes and coastal mountains. It was what it was!
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  • Katmai NP&P to Beluga Lake

    18 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Bears on the beach saw us off from Naknek Lake … and thus we began the return trip from Katmai National Park & Preserve to Homer.

    By 8:00p we were “feet wet,” leaving Katmai National Park behind. By 9:00p, we were landing softly on Beluga Lake in Homer.

    The air seemed slightly clearer on the way back and I even managed to get a shot or two of some of the volcanoes, as well as the Homer Spit.
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  • City of Secluded Charm

    19 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Seldovia is another one of those Alaskan towns that has no road connection to the rest of the state, You can fly to this town, which was founded by Russians in search of sea otter pelts and timber to repair their ships … or you can take a boat there. We opted for the latter.

    Instead of doing a wildlife cruise that has a stop in Seldovia, we chose to go there on the Kachemak Bay Ferry which has twice-daily roundtrip sailings. Not only did this give us more time in Seldovia, but it was less expensive since I had a TourSaver 2-for-1 coupon.

    The ride across Kachemak Bay was a smooth one. When we arrived in Seldovia, we headed to the Boardwalk Hotel for lunch on the deck overlooking the boat harbor. Good food … but exceptionally slow service. Not that we minded spending time on the deck, but it did cut into our time for exploring Seldovia. In the end, we had to make a choice between hiking the Otterbahn Trail or strolling around town. We chose the latter.

    Our meandering stroll, took us up to the Russian Orthodox Church of St Nicholas; gave us a chance to smell the roses, so to speak, in the pocket gardens planted all around Seldovia; study the chainsaw sculptures in hidden nooks and crannies; check out the historic boardwalk; and study the exhibits at the tiny but informative museum. We would have wrapped up with a couple of cones from the ice cream shop … but they were all out.

    All in all, a good day exploring off the beaten path (sort of) in Alaska.
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  • Ooops! … Fixed

    20 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Our run of good weather ran out today. We woke up to rain … and it is still raining. No matter, we wanted a day or two of rest … and time for chores … laundry was foremost on my mind.

    Plus, Mui had an important errand to attend to this morning.

    When we got back from Seldovia yesterday, the CR-V was dead as a door nail. How could that be? The battery was brand new … replaced just before we left the house in May. We managed to get jump from a guy parked nearby and got back to the Cruiser OK. Turns out the battery was indeed OK. The problem was a broken battery terminal connector.

    Mui left after breakfast, intending to pick up the necessary part in town and replace the broken connector himself. He ended up getting it fixed by a mechanic instead. The cost? $0 … zip … nada. The guy told Mui it would cost him more than the actual work was worth to write it all up. He would not take a tip, but a six-pack of beer as a thank you did not go amiss.
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  • Stroll on the Homer Spit

    20 июля 2021 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Chores done … dinner eaten. When the steady rain looked like it was going to let up, we decided to take a stroll along the Homer Spit. It continued to “spritz” but bundled up in our rain gear, it didn’t matter.

    Our goal was to stretch our legs a bit. There is a pedestrian/bike path that runs the length of the Spit, which is about 5 miles long, which is nice since there is quite a bit of traffic on the road that runs down the middle.

    We walked by the fishing hole, down to the boat harbor and beyond. Crossing the road, we stopped by the Seafarer’s Memorial and then checked out some of the shops. Then, we came to Carmen’s Gelato. Yup …. That was our second goal (or maybe it was the primary one that got us out for stroll). Yummm!
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