• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
out. – nov. 2023

TA HAL Oosterdam 2023

Another westbound TransAtlantic to return us home from our annual trip to Türkiye ... with sightseeing along the way. Leia mais
  • Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Spain

    5 de novembro de 2023, Espanha

    It’s raining in Las Palmas!

    At least it is at the moment. It feels refreshing after a hot and sunny afternoon here in the Canaries. It’s 7:00p. Oosterdam is tied up at its berth since we are not scheduled to depart until 9:00p. I am enjoying the comfy night time temperature on the veranda, which is well-protected from the rain.

    What to say about today.

    Disappointing … that just about covers it. Here’s the story anyway … and a few photos. I blame it on today being Sunday.

    After a morning at sea, our 2:00p arrival in port was delayed a bit due to a race … sailboats heading to the coast of Africa. In his announcement explaining the reason for the delay, Captain Rens said that they had not been advised of the race so it came as a surprise to the bridge team as well. To make up for the delay, he opened the bow, which is always a treat.

    After Daniel’s presentation about Las Palmas last night, we had decided to spend our afternoon in Vegueta … the Old Town of Las Palmas … about two miles from the port. A cathedral, historic buildings, cafés, and shops … well, it sounded like the perfect place to while away a couple of hours on a Sunday afternoon. Maybe even have dinner.

    Disembarking Oosterdam, we weaved our way around passengers coming from and going to the four other ships in port. In the square outside the gates — a 10-minute or so walk from where we were docked — we found the underground bus station. We were told that either the yellow #12 bus, or the blue #327 bus would take us to Vegueta … €1.40pp … each way. We missed the #12 while we were getting our bearings. But #327 arrived moments later. Except for the driver’s wife, we were the only passengers on the bus.

    So far so good.

    We got off when the driver told us we had reached our destination. He pointed out where to catch #12 on the way back. Which we did … much earlier than anticipated. You see, except for a few cafés, Vegueta, the birth place of Las Palmas, was fast asleep.

    Shops closed. Museums closed. Even the cathedral — where we’d been told we could take an elevator up the tower to see the aerial views — was closed. We wandered around for a bit. Thought about sitting down at one of the few open cafés to grab a drink … it was too early for food. Nah … the ambiance just wasn’t there. Sighing, we walked to the bus station and hopped on #12 for the ride back to the port.

    It was 5:00p when we returned to Oosterdam. Settling on the veranda, we enjoyed a glass of wine and some snacks.

    Fingers crossed for a better day in Tenerife tomorrow!
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  • Welcome to Santa Cruz de Tenerife

    6 de novembro de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    After rockin’ and rollin’ overnight, Oosterdam was already snug in its berth when I went up to the Lido Market to join Mui for breakfast at 7:30a. Tummies sated, we were off the ship and on our way to explore a new-to-us part of Tenerife.

    Let me just say that we had a great day in Santa Cruz today. Actually, we spent our time in San Cristóbal de la Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But that story will be in the next footprint … this one is just to welcome everyone to our second port of call in Spain’s Canary Islands.

    Our only regret today was that our friends, Manuela and Wolfgang, were off the island, so we didn’t get to see them this time.
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  • Santa Cruz: Exploring La Laguna

    6 de novembro de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Our plan today was to head up to San Cristóbal de La Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is commonly referred to simply as La Laguna.

    As the former capital of the Canary Islands, La Laguna is a city with lots of history, colonial architecture, and a linear layout that dates back to the 15th century. Nowadays, it is considered the cultural capital of the archipelago. We were not disappointed in what we found in La Laguna today … notwithstanding the fact that we did not encounter the ghostly spirit of Catalina Lercaro … even though we did visit her home 😳

    To get to La Laguna, we hopped on a bus from a stop near the cruise terminal. That took us to the main bus terminal. From there, we hopped on a tram for the 30-40 minute ride up to Las Trinidad … the last stop on the tram line. It was then a 5-minute walk to the historic center of La Laguna.

    It was 10:00a when we began our stroll through the deserted streets in the UNESCO area of the town. That would change as the day progressed.. Following the tower peeking above the historic buildings, we stopped the Cathedral of Santa Ana first. From there, we walked to the visitor information office to pick up a map and get tips.

    Map in hand, we headed to Calle San Agustin, lined with historic buildings on either side of the street. Some of the buildings had signs in front of them with descriptions explaining their origin and how they were being used currently. Many of them housed government offices, the ground floor open to visitors who wanted to take a peek into the courtyard.

    In one such house — Casa Lercaro — we found the Museum of History and Anthropology of Tenerife. The story goes that Catalina Lercaro, the daughter of the family, did not want to go through with the marriage of convenience arranged by her parents. So, she killed herself by leaping into a pit in the courtyard. Though the house is said to be haunted by Catalina’s spirit, we saw no ghosts today … just some interesting exhibits … and a lovely colonial era building.

    Our next stop was the Monastery of Santa Clara and Church of St John the Baptist. Here we got a combo ticket that gave us admission to several sites … starting with the monastery and the museum housed on the grounds.

    Palacio Salazar was the next place included in the combo ticket. The mid-17th century property is an example of the Canarian Baroque style. At the end of the 19th century it was acquired by the church and became the residence of the Archbishop. After having our tickets punched, we were buzzed through the beautiful wrought iron gate, leaving behind a bunch of people wondering what made us special enough that we were given access. If only they knew it was the combo tickets we had purchased 😊

    Our meandering walk from Palacio Salazar next took us to Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción. Not that we were interested in the church itself. Rather, we wanted to climb the tower. But since both were included in the combo ticket, we went inside the church first. Turns out that dating back to 1511, this was the first church to be founded in the Canaries after the conquest.

    The tower climb was not particularly strenuous … I think five flights in all and then a circular staircase up to the open terrace where the bells are located. But the stairs were steep and the risers high. The scenery in every direction from the top of the tower was lovely, and we spent quite some time enjoying the colorful city from high up. Just as we were about to leave, the bells tolled the quarter hour. Luckily, it was the small bells and not the big one that I later read is the largest in the Canary Islands.

    By the time we came down the tower both our feet and our tummies were registering their complaints. The former wanted a bit of rest; the latter wanted food.
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  • Santa Cruz: Tapas in La Laguna

    6 de novembro de 2023, Espanha

    Heeding the complaints being registered by our feet and tummies, we headed next to Patio Canario … housed in Casa Mustelier, which dates from 1739.

    Since we did not have a reservation, we were given a table inside rather than on the patio where the “open kitchen” is located. We took a peek at the patio later, and figure we got the better end of the deal. Certainly more ambiance inside.

    We ordered a half platter of cheese and Serrano ham; a half order of croquettes … ham, chicken, and spinach; and an order of patatas bravas … which, as it turns out had a sauce made with goat cheese … explaining why I didn’t much care for what is otherwise a favorite dish of mine. A liter of sangria washed down the food. And a truly delicious tres leches cake for dessert wrapped up our meal.
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  • Santa Cruz: Spanish Farewell

    6 de novembro de 2023, Espanha

    Bidding our “Spanish Farewell” from Santa Cruz at 8:00p, we drew the curtain on our last port of call of this cruise.

    Next stop … the Americas. More specifically … Ft Lauderdale, Florida. 3,452 NM to go!

    A bit of rain, after we returned to Oosterdam from La Laguna this afternoon, rewarded us with a rainbow. I am taking it as a good omen for the crossing.
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  • Atlantic Crossing: Day 1

    7 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    This is the extra day added to what should have been a 7-day crossing.

    If not for the storms, and the port-pilot strike, today we would have been in Funchal in Portugal’s Madeira Islands and starting the crossing late tonight.

    We’ve been gently rockin’ and rollin’ our way to the USA. A partly to mostly cloudy day. Captain Rens gave the day’s high temp as 70F. But it sure felt much warmer than that when the sun was on the veranda.

    In addition to mentioning the temperature and the usual nautical navigation stats in his noon announcement, Captain Rens gave us an update on the low pressure systems that have played havoc with our published itinerary. We are way ahead of the storms around Portugal/Spain. And the one chasing us down to the Canaries is now to our starboard. However, we are slowly pulling away from it. By tomorrow it should be well to our stern and remain there for the rest of the crossing.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 276 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 3,176 NM
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  • Atlantic Crossing: Day 2

    8 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean

    Routine. Routine. Routine.

    That means that we’re not doing anything that is footprint-worthy. No complaints on our part, however. We have several months ahead of us that promise to be really busy, so we’re looking forward to some enforced R&R at sea.

    Nonetheless, I am going to post footprints for each day of the crossing so that I don’t leave the blog somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.

    By the way … we received disembarkation options today. Unlike other cruise lines we’ve sailed recently, HAL allows passengers to choose their own debarkation time … within reason. We opted for Gray 2 … the last group. Looks like everyone will be off by 9:00a regardless … unless US Customs and Immigration calls a halt to the process … as happened in Miami at the end of our Celebrity crossing last year.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 742 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 2,710 NM
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  • Atlantic Crossing: Day 3

    9 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    We broke down today!

    I don’t mean that in the technical sense. The ship is sailing just fine … at an average speed that will get us to Ft Lauderdale as planned on 15 November.

    Rather, Mui and I broke down and purchased a one-device internet package that we will share for the remainder of the crossing. We paid for the package with the adjustments credited to our account for the taxes and fees due us for the port cancelations. No hit to the wallet is a good thing 😊

    I do have something out-of-routine to write about. Tonight was our dinner at the Pinnacle Grill. It is one of the restaurants on the ship that has a surcharge. Our reservation was compliments of Guest Services … for the compressor noise we’re having to endure from the mechanical room across the hall from us.

    We were seated at a two-top wanna-be in a niche. What I mean by that is that our table was barely separated from the two-tops on either side. No matter, we chatted with the others between courses, which helped pass the time.

    The food was excellent … but there was way too much of it. Our appetizers — crab cakes for me and stuffed mushroom caps for Mui … with an order of “clothesline candied bacon” to share — were more the size of an entree we thought. That we shared the bacon, with its interesting presentation, didn’t really make a difference to the fact that I could eat barely half of the baked Alaskan halibut that I ordered as that too was a large portion. As for the size of the dessert orders … well, Mui’s key lime pie was a reasonably sized portion; my “not-so-classic baked Alaska,” on the other hand, could have easily fed four people IMHO.

    Good thing I have some writing to do as it will be a while before I have digested the food and can go to bed.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 1,192 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 2,260 NM
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  • Atlantic Crossing: Day 4

    10 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    Routine. Routine. Routine.

    I suppose the only thing to write about is that in addition to going to the Coloring for Adults session, Mui paid the surcharge — $25 — to go to the Guided Painting on Canvas session today. The result? An impressionistic painting of water lilies. He did pretty good … and best of all, had fun.

    By the way, one of the great things about a westbound TransAtlantic is that we keep falling back where time is concerned. That means that some of our days are 25 hours long. We were at GMT +2 when we boarded Oosterdam in İstanbul on 21 October. We are now at GMT -2 … with several more hours to gain before it is all said and done.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 1,614 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 1,838 NM
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  • Atlantic Crossing: Day 5

    11 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    We’re past the halfway point back to the USA!

    That’s what Captain Rens said when he gave his daily navigation report at noon. Of course, we’ve still got a distance to go, but the countdown is in earnest now.

    Mui stopped in at the Mainstage this morning for the Veterans Day Ceremony. He stayed long enough to see the flowers laid at the base of the podium and listen to a song performed by Cantaré. Then he had to run off to his adult coloring class. Not sure what else the ceremony entailed, but he said it was standing-room-only when he left.

    Tonight we dined with some fellow-passengers from Türkiye. We met Levent, Belgin, and Melissa when we embarked in İstanbul on 21 October … they are making a permanent move back to the US … at least until their daughter graduates from University. We met Atilla & Füsun yesterday. They are on their way to South America to meet up with their son, and then they will continue to Cusco, Peru where they will stay for a while. We had a pleasant evening with plenty of conversation and laughter.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 2,044 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 1,408 NM
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  • Atlantic Crossing: Day 6

    12 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Lake Atlantic Ocean!

    That is how captain Rens described today’s sea state when he came on the P/A at noon for his daily announcement. Indeed, the Atlantic was flat calm today … at least until mid afternoon. What little motion of the ocean we’ve been experiencing since about 2:30p is really not worth mentioning, so I will simply move on.

    Not that there is much to move onto. I suppose I could mention that we are now in the three digits — distance-wise — in our quest to reach the USA … and have approximately two full days in which to cover that distance.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 2,475 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 977 NM
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  • Atlantic Crossing: Day 7

    13 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    A change in the weather today!

    Overcast and drizzly … a bit of humidity … warm. But the lack of sunshine made it possible for me to sit on the veranda for most of the day. Oosterdam went through a rain squall or two, but it wasn’t an issue on the protected veranda

    The light became brighter around 11:00a. The sun tried to break through, but the cloud cover won the battle. By mid-afternoon, however, the situation was reversed and the sun was out. But our heading was such that, the sun didn’t quite make it onto the veranda.

    Between his art ventures today, Mui began packing. We’re testing out a new way of packing, which we hope will make accessing clothes while on the road in Australia easier.

    Mui’s Guided Painting on Canvas Session this afternoon — the theme was “looking down on a beach from the top of a cliff” — went a bit long. Nonetheless, we had our wine on the veranda before having dinner at the Lido Market tonight.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 2,878 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 574 NM
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  • Atlantic Crossing: The Last Day

    14 de novembro de 2023, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    We entered the Providence Channel around 2:30p to sail through the Bahamas on our way to Ft Lauderdale. A heron circling Oosterdam signaled our proximity to land.

    We have had seven time changes in all since departing Istanbul, gaining time over the past 25 days. We will fall back one last time … gaining another hour overnight to put us on Eastern Standard Time … GMT -5.

    As of noon, distance covered since departing Tenerife: 3,234 NM
    As of noon, distance remaining to Ft Lauderdale: 270 NM
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  • Welcome to the USA

    15 de novembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌬 77 °F

    Picking up the pilot around 4:00a, Oosterdam then made it’s way to it’s assigned berth at Port Everglades … Ft Lauderdale, FL.

    While our cruise has now come to an end in overcast and rainy Florida, our trip will conclude only after we get home to Colorado this evening where it will be much colder I expect … but no precipitation of any kind.Leia mais

  • Aboard UA 696 to Denver

    15 de novembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    With a late afternoon flight back to Colorado, we were in no hurry to rush off Oosterdam when disembarkation began around 7:00a. Having selected the last disembarkation group color — Gray 2 — we waited in our cabin in comfort until we heard our group called just before 9:00a.

    One of the worst parts of disembarking a ship with nearly 2,000 passengers is the long lines to go through immigration. Well, today the lines moved at a steady pace, so it wasn’t bad. No wait at the taxi line either.

    By 10:00a, we were at FLL looking to check our bags. Not so fast. Apparently, bags can only be checked within four hours of the scheduled departure time. Oh well … we found a quiet spot in baggage claim of all places and whiled away the time until the magic hour.

    Once the bags were checked, things were back on track again. No wait at the security checkpoint. Seats available in the otherwise crowded United Club Lounge. On time boarding and departure of UA 696 to Denver.

    It’s been an uneventful flight thus far … a little turbulence notwithstanding. I even netted some complimentary miles on my MileagePlus account because the entertainment system at my seat is not functioning. I have my iPad and we have wi-fi for social media, so no problem passing the hours.

    Another hour to go and we should be landing in Denver.

    (Yay! I even got to post this footprint while we’re still on our way to Denver.)
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  • Home Sweet Home

    15 de novembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Or near enough.

    Picking up a few groceries for breakfast tomorrow and then we’ll be home.

    Our flight to DEN landed on time. Took the train from the B Concourse to the Terminal. Got our bags and hopped on the Avis shuttle to pick up the rental car to get us home.

    Another trip is now in the can!
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  • Final Itinerary

    16 de novembro de 2023, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    As you've already read in the footprints, we had a number of itinerary changes on our 26-Day Ancient Empires & Spanish Farewell cruise aboard Oosterdam.

    Some of these were self-induced ... we opted to board in İstanbul, Türkiye instead of Piraeus (Athens), Greece.

    Others happened well before the cruise set sail... lost Sete, France ... but gained an overnight in Barcelona, Spain.

    The more serious changes that resulted in the loss of five ports — and the gain of two ports — happened during the cruise ... all weather-related. Our losses were Kotor, Montenegro; Cartagena & Cadiz, Spain; Lisbon & Funchal, Portugal. Our gains were both in the Canaries ... Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

    The most important thing in travel is to go with the flow. So, that's what we did. Yes, we were disappointed with the loss of so many ports, but we took it in stride ... and enjoyed the ports that we did visit, and the eight-day crossing back to the USA.
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    Final da viagem
    15 de novembro de 2023