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Brenda’s Camino

toukokuuta - kesäkuuta 2023
A pilgrimage begins the moment you walk out your door. Lue lisää
  • 44jalanjäljet
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  • 52päivää
  • 337valokuvat
  • 6videot
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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    Päivä 11

    Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belgrado

    11. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today's walk is one of the walks that sometimes people complain of because it is mostly parallel to a major roadway. It is true...but the path is wide and well maintained. It is a largely flat walk and between Santa Domingo and Belgrado, and the trail goes through 4 or 5 much smaller towns.

    It was a quiet day on the Camino (except for the traffic ...lol). The weather was a bit cooler and a bit of wind so my first day for wearing long sleeves and pants, but no rain! My foot held up reasonably well today...still uncomfortable but manageable, so I am a bit relieved about that turn of events. Duck tape does seem to do the trick!

    Of note today, in Grannon, the first of the towns, in the church, the baptismal font dates back to the 12th century. And in two towns along the trail was the smaller church where Santo Domingo was baptized, and it is also the town where he was born. It is still a tradition that if you are born and baptized in this village, that you return to baptize your own children in the same town and church.

    Further along the trail an entrepreneurial albergue owner, keeps a small hostel but also has a small kitchen where she offered up omelette sandwich, salami, etc. for a DONATION. The bread was delicious and fresh, spread with a fresh tomato paste of sorts, drizzled with some olive oil, and a fresh and hot omelette to top it all off. She offered coffee, some cookies, and some fresh fruits...for a donation. This is most truly in the spirit of the Camino. In her kitchen, people gathered communally around the tables inside and outside, shared a meal and conversation.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    Päivä 12

    Belgrado to San Juan de Ortega

    12. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Today as I climbed the Montes de Ola and later Alto de Valbueno at 3800 feet in the rain, cold, wind with my feet hurting (still!), I am wondering what possesses a person to voluntarily take on such an adventure?

    In fact, as I passed the hotel that I am currently staying, the Hotel San Anton Abad, I seriously contemplated two things: one skip the mountain climb or climb to the top and then go back down to my hotel. I did neither because several things were on my mind. First, I had a taxi driver meeting me in San Juan to return me back to this hotel (transferring from hotel to hotel or town to town is very common), and secondly, I don't think I could have made the steep descent, and it seemed easier to walk through the forest another 8 km than walk back down!

    Wearing everything that I have that is warm and waterproof, today I walked 24.5 km and eventually arrived at this hotel which in 1377 was the Hospital de Peregrinos San Anton Abad. In 2009 a local walking the Camino returned to restore the hospital to a hotel that now continues to serve the pilgrims.

    Today's walk was much like yesterday with a few more views, and for more than 1/2 the walk we were away from the major highway. The sun is coming out now, but most of the day cloud and rain and cool temperatures of only 8 degrees made the trail quieter today. I saw many people waiting for the bus this morning!

    Accommodation is becoming increasingly difficult as the camino travels west, and so many pilgrims today had either a much shorter walk or a much longer walk, between 12 and 32 km in order to find accommodation. Today, I walked for some time in the mountains with ladies from Australia whom I have seen here and there, but usually I can't even consider keeping up, but later today, they probably slowed down, and I am beginning to find my rhythm. Learning to use my poles effectively, and I think either my feet are improving or I am becoming numb to the pain. I think it is the latter. In the last few km it was nice to have some company to ease the challenges of the last few km. Since we are at the same hotel, we will also have dinner together. Most nights even as a solo traveler, I rarely eat alone. The Camino is friendly.

    We all had a good laugh that since we are in what was once a hospital, how much we could use a bit of nursing. The altitude here does not bother me, but for some the altitude is problematic. One thing for sure, I know will take some adjustment back to Calgary...when was the last time you took a 5 euro out of your wallet, and bought two glasses of red wine and got change! Tonight at the pilgrims supper, I had a salad ( normally I have pasta lol), fish in tomato sauce ( my go to thing), and a caramel flan, and as much wine and water that you can drink. All for 18 euros... Most nights, I find myself at a pilgrim dinner or a hotel serving a pilgrim dinner. For between 14 to 18 euros, you get a starter ( pasta or salad or soup or broccoli), and then a meal so fish, pork, chicken. And then a simple desert. And wine...and more wine...    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    1
    Päivä 13

    San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

    13. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Burgos is a large and thriving city and at the core of the city is a a medieval town and the walls enclose vibrant tourism, one of the largest cathedrals in Spain. Burgos is also well known for a museum of human evolution. About 1/3 of the way to Burgos we passed the nearby town of Atapuerca which has been a town since 750 when it was a small Christian settlement and in the 13th century became an important military town and also a town to serve pilgrims. It is in Atapuerca where archeological remains of the Atapuercan civilization from 1.2 million years ago have been discovered and excavated.

    Today's 27 km walk was still a bit cool, and I kept my long sleeves and raincoat and long pants on most of the day. But it was not raining, but a bit windy. But all in a good day for walking. The first 13 km of the walk were largely flat except for a small climb and descent (my definition of small is changing). The later 13 km were largely entering the greater limits of Burgos, so passing along an airport, freeways, industrial areas. About 10 km before reaching the centre of the city and the medieval walls where my hotel is located, we walked mostly along a roadway through residential areas and the closer we got to the inner medieval city, the more robust the tourism with shopping, cafes, etc.

    Today, I walked mostly with Theresa ( also travelling alone and from Toronto). We joined here and there, Bernadette, Victoria and Deanna ( Australian), and then came into the city proper with Sherri and Robert (Summerland, BC)...It was nice to have company the majority of today's walk since navigating the city was a bit more challenging.

    The number of pilgrims has noticeably decreased and this may be due to the fact that this segment of the Camino (particularly the last 3 days), there has been more or less roadways, busy intersections to cross, not consistently beautiful and quiet country side. Although, even in some of the earlier days when the Camino is in the countryside, very often the nearby motorway can be seen or heard. It is not a surprise that the trek for the pilgrims of the 13th century passed through what are now important towns and cities, and, of course, a network of roads to connect them all.

    I am happy to report that my feet are holding up ok..the duct tape seems to be working and my feet are at least not getting worse, and walking today at a good pace and not limping along is refreshing. I have a full day in Burgos tomorrow to do some sightseeing. In fact, I am in this hotel for 3 nights in a row! Tonight because I walked here, tomorrow is a rest day, and the third night, I will have walked away from Burgos but will be taxied back to this city to stay the night...the accommodation problem is ongoing. I am very thankful to have a bed every night without worry.

    The Camino for me is beginning to take on a life of its own for me now. I unpack, and pack again with ease at each hotel. I have a method of organizing my back pack. I am comfortable finding what I need in these towns and cities. I am comfortable each morning waking up knowing that I have 25km or so ahead of me, but it no longer feels unmanageable. I am just shy of two weeks on the trail and have covered approximately 230 km. When before this seemed epic, now it feels comfortable and normal. Of course, meeting new friends, having conversations and adapting to the way of life on the Camino, sharing our aches and pains and later a glass or two or three of wine, the Camino is beginning to feel like the Camino I am came here for.

    But I still do miss you all! Love seeing pictures from home. Don't forget to send them.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    Päivä 14

    Burgos Rest Day

    14. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Last night, I took a short excursion and as I walked up the stone medieval street and crested the rise, the most amazing cathedral rose out of the ground (see pictures). Burgos is famous for the Cathedral de Santa Maria, and the moment I saw this cathedral literally rise from the ground below, I already knew that I would be visiting the next day.

    But not before, I take care of some of the business of the Camino...It is freezing here...12 degrees but a cool wind, and unfortunately, I sent back to Canada some of my warmer things when I thought that Spain was having a heat wave. Also important to note that in Spain not only do they siesta the better part of most afternoons, fail to open for all holidays, celebrations or otherwise, they also do not work on Sunday. So my rest day is Sunday and I am desperate for something warmer. The ONLY store open on these tourist busy cathedral streets, except for cafes, is a dollar store, so 28 euros later, I have a toque, some gloves and a man's sweater ( size small). I also stop at a convenience store that stocks mostly wine, but I found more tinned tuna as emergency rations. And finally the fourth ATM is working...so now I have money! Now I am ready for my cathedral tour.

    The cathedral truly is amazing...I have visited many churches on holidays in Europe, and often feel that one church is much like another...this Cathedral is like nothing I have ever seen. First, it is literally sunk in the ground. So it rises out of the streets...I believe it was built on the foundations of an ancient castle, and the cathedral also has two levels to match the two street levels that it hovers over and around. It rises like a cloud out of the streets.

    The cathedral is a testament to Mary and was built over 22 years beginning in 1121. Though the cathedral has undergone additions and renovations over the years, the essential structure remains the same which is why the architecture of the building is largely gothic. Gothic architecture includes pointed arches, stained-glass windows, flying buttresses, ribbed vaults, and spires. These are all evident in this cathedral in each of the 21 chapels. The cathedral is essentially a collection of chapels built over time to honour various political and religious leaders of the time who created these monuments either as a testament to their living and dying, or a testament to their strong faith and convictions. But the truly remarkable feature of the cathedral is the lasting art work where now the Cathedral is as much a church as it is a museum. The sculptures, the stone architecture, the stained glass windows, and the paintings that adorn the walls are a testament to the art that has survived the passage of time, and recounts the ages.

    So after my Cathedral tour today, I went off looking for lunch ( albeit the late Spanish lunch) and if it wasn't my friend, Diana, also looking for a late lunch...so 4 glasses of wine later and some pinchos...we arranged to meet for dinner two hours later! Which of course has given me a bit of time to catchup on my FindPenguin footprint because tomorrow is a walking day.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    Päivä 15

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    15. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The walk out of Burgos was lovely...it remained in the old town, across the river, past the original Parliament building, past the university into the countryside where nearly all of today's walk was in the countryside leading to the next major section of the Camino, the meseta. The meseta is a plateau where for the next 170 km or so will stretch until approximately Leon.

    I am now able to confidently say that 21.5 km is a short walk. The cooler weather also makes it so that walking is very comfortable. Add to that the relatively flat terrain, only a small climb for a few kilometres changed the rhythm of the day. My feet are bandaged up neatly every morning, but now I am finally keeping to a pace and rhythm that is perfect for me and my body.

    We started out as a larger group today, and largely stayed that way most of the way with intermittent staggering here and there, until the next cafe! Today, I walked all of my way with Savante, from Sweden, and then we parted ways as he continued onto the next town for a 30 km day.

    Hornillos del Camino is not any more remarkable than many of the towns along the way, except for one thing. If any of you have watched the film, The Way, the film features a local, and this local man is actually local, and our little group had the privilege of watching him at work in his community where he moves pilgrims from place to place in his "taxi". Our taxi driver said that he is famous, but totally cuckoo. I am going to try to attach the video that I took today of him and the saga of getting his truck started. I didn't catch a very good picture of the famous local, but the video is classic camino.

    Tonight, I will catch up with Holgar whom I have not walked with since the first day of the Camino, but finally our schedules are in sync. Diana is also still here in Burgos tonight, and her and I discovered last night that at some point before Leon our walking days are sync, so we will be able to walk together, not just eat and have wine!    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    Päivä 16

    Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    16. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today I had the most extraordinary Camino experience and not because I spent some time praying in a beautiful church, and lingering at the ancient ruins of a monestrary, but because I met Marguarite who owns this home/hotel in the centre of Castrojeriz. I am her guest tonight.

    She and her husband purchased this ruined home of the early 19th century in the town of Castrojeriz which during the medieval ages was a capital city. They have renovated this home retaining the original structures and the essential “being” of the home. The home begins 3 stories down where originally the cattle and the horses were kept, and continues down another story to a series of tunnels that connect the houses along this street and are purported to travel to the castle on the hill ( which fell to an earthquake in the 18th century). On the upper levels are the main dining hall and kitchens ( yes…two kitchens!), and continuing up 2 more levels of bedrooms.

    Marguarite, the owner and manager, struggles to maintain this home and hotel because she works as a paediatrician in Barcelona and is now divorced, so she opens her home in May and September only. Marguarite along with a housekeeper manage the entire home and the guests. She serves breakfast, does the laundry, greets new guests and cooks an evening meal. She is 63.

    The challenge in Spain to hire workers is a problem because no one wants to work Saturday or Sunday, or during the siesta. Foreign workers do not have the requisite paper work, and the authorities routinely visit monthly for their inspections.

    I am so smitten with this place, I may abandon the next leg of the Camino and stay an extra day in this very sleepy little town in the middle of metesa. I am learning the Camino is not a hike — it may be difficult like a hike, and God knows I have the battered feet to prove it —the Camino is about “arriving”.

    “Arriving” where? That remains a mystery, but one thing about pilgrims is that they are motivated to “arrive”…the ones who are looking, the one’s whose quest is greater than themselves. The Camino every day becomes a filling of our “lostness”, a filling of a deep need to find the centre again.

    The odd thing about today is that yesterday because I focused on the “hike” and enjoyed a vigourous walk without my feet hurting any more than normal, I neglected a small stone church at the side of the Camino. If I had stopped at the stone church, a lovely nun would have given me a small necklace with a golden heart and blessed both the necklace and myself for a safe Camino.

    Today, I did not make that mistake. I slowed down, walked alone, and chose not to leave this house once I arrived. I had a lovely afternoon on a patio practicing silence and reflection and enjoying quiet conversation with a woman named Marguerite who may have changed me. Reminded me.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    2
    Päivä 17

    Castrojeriz to Fromista

    17. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Today, as perhaps the next few days will be, was relatively unremarkable. This area is largely grain and barley farming, so a bit like walking through Saskwatchen (lol). In fact, much of northern Spain so far reminds me a great deal of the Okanagan: fruit, wine, lavender, but no lakes.

    Today was 25km and with the exception of one 1 km hill at a 12% grade and very windy ( Lethbridge windy), it was a good Camino day. Thankfully, my feet are getting better, and healing. They hurt less just generally. Other body parts continue to hold up.

    The windy weather may continue into tomorrow, but there is no forecast for rain, and continued temperatures in the high teens, I think it will be another week before we begin to see weather in the 20’s. But having said that despite the wind and it is a bit cool…the sky is blue and the sun is out, so very pleasant for walking.

    I walked alone much of the day but intermittently met a few friends from Australia. Later today, I met the Canadian father and daughter ( Bob and Kate) whom I see fairly consistently on the trail. I also was introduced to a couple of ladies travelling together from Ontario whom I have not met before today.

    I have attached a picture of my Camino packing system in case you ever wondered how do you pack and unpack for 50 days in a row? First, before I shower, I empty the backpack completely, empty out all the water bottles, I stack clothes into backpack clothes, dirty clothes, clothes I am going to wear after the shower. I lay out medicine, hair shampoo, toothbrush etc in the bathroom. I put all the back pack stuff ready for repacking in the morning, including the first aid kit ( which I use every morning….because every morning my feet require first aid if they are going to see the end of the day.), sun screen. It is a bit of a system, but I find I can relax, have a shower, have a wine or beer and socialize, dinner and be ready for the next day. Luggage always has to be down by 8 am. No dawdling in the morning!

    I attached a picture of the meseta which is sprawling and will continue for the next days to come. I also attached a picture of the cross with shells…it is actually just a bit macabre because in the middle 1400’s if you committed a serious crime, they hung you from it!    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    1
    Päivä 18

    Fromista to Carrion de los Condes

    18. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Ok…one thing about the Camino, and I think I mentioned it before is the “food” challenge. So not only do the Spanish eat at very odd hours not at all timed with my 60 year old biological clock, but I am figuring out that the culinary efforts to feed the pilgrims amounts to either “conference” style feeding of the pilgrims, or generally very poor take out. For example, yesterday, I asked for a sandwich at a kiosk in a town and it was simply a French loaf with a couple of slices of ham ( and the terrible kind), and 2 mini slices of cheese. At the pilgrim supper, I had a salad which consisted of iceberg lettuce, 2 slices of tomato and a splash of tuna and pre-pkg oil and balsamic dressing, the second plate was a a plate of pasta with tomato sauce. This morning breakfast was either the egg and potato omelet or bread with meat and cheese…this is very typical, but more than 2 weeks in, I have not been complaining much, except today. I might also be a bit more sensitive because I have fought terrible wind for two days now…

    My guide book says that there is an excellent restaurant in the town about 5 km before my final destination. It is even a Michelin star restaurant! I know that lunch will not be served before 130, so I wait…I wait very patiently for an hour…I toured the church…also lovely…and waited.

    I was the first one in the restaurant, and greeted by a maitre de, and the tables are set with wine glasses etc. etc…and I think…oh no… they do not serve pilgrims like the guide book said, but none the less, I persist and the friendly maitre de seats me. We have a brief discussion about the type of wine I would like and between my “no Spanish” and his “no English” we settle on rose. A word the same in both languages.

     Over the lunch, I am brought the pilgrim’s lunch. A wonderful soup, Castilian, a fish in tomato sauce and finally French toast and cream…I have never had a Michelin star restaurant experience for 18 euros (including wine), and likely never will again because you have to be dressed like you are a pilgrim and look all the more wretched for the experience.

    Another thing I am learning about the Camino is that speaking Spanish is definitely an asset. You can get by like I do with no Spanish, but I think it would be much easier to engage with the experience more fully if you had access to the language. Everything is harder in Spain without speaking the language, from eating, to doing laundry, to finding places for buy new gear. Part of my experience today is a response to not being able to speak Spanish and deciding to be brave and try to do what the guide book suggests, despite the fact that it is harder to communicate. Despite my lack of language skills to step outside of the typical pilgrim experience.

    While I was at lunch, locals started to come in. For some, the maitre de brought out olives and bottles of wine, for others he brought out I think a lamb chop…but it was really large, and for others they got a menu! All the while, the locals all said hello when they passed my table and I even had a conversation with a local using a translate app…I attached a picture. In this restaurant they use their napkin as shown. I wondered what that strap was for??? Apparently it is put around your neck. I can think of a few shirts that might have been saved with this technique rather than just putting it on your lap!

    And the best part of lunch, after a jug of wine, was when I asked for a taxi to the hotel, the hotel driver came to collect me. I passed all these pilgrims walking in the wind, along the side of the motorway, and not for a second did I feel guilty. I enjoyed my authentic Castilian lunch in a wonderful restaurant that historically was a hospital for pilgrim’s.

    I have arrived at a monastery turned high end hotel. I attached a view from my modest room in this old monastery. The town of Carrion de los Condos is historically important. It is the 1/2 way point to Santiago, and the town at one time housed 10,000 people who lived, worked and served pilgrims or were passing pilgrims. The monestery was politically important but also economically important and was established and nurtured as a secondary Santiago because pilgrims were 1/2 way through their journey which means that I am also now 1/2 way through. I have walked ( mostly) 400+ km at this point. Beginning tomorrow will mark the point where Santiago becomes increasingly less a dream and more a reality.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    Päivä 19

    Carrion to Calzadilla de la Cueza

    19. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I don't have any pictures to attach today! Today's short walk was about 17km down a gravel road with grain and wheat fields on either side. Not a hill in sight...not a curve in the road...just a direct route between the two towns. Stocking up on food and water was necessary for today's route. A food truck set up along the way which is pleasant break, and there were picnic tables dotted here and there.

    For us women, going pee was a bit of challenge on this straight road! But at least the wind had quietened to make the long straight walk more palatable.

    Today, I parted ways with a few of my new Australian friends...we don't pick up the trail together now until early June, the last 100 km. But I am picking up the trail again with Diana in another couple of days, so am looking forward to that. The trail is becoming increasingly more diverse as people walking from St. Jean are on and off different schedules depending on how far they walk, if they get accommodation, and if they take rest days along the way. The couple I have been with the last few days ( Sherri and Bob) , we will also have a parting in the next couple of days, and our paths come together later. We share contact information and so communicate a bit about where we are on the way. It truly does become a Camino family.

    The new pilgrims are pilgrims that are doing this leg of the Camino. I am meeting quite a few people now who have done bits and peices over the years, and this year they are doing this leg of the Camino. It will be quite an emotional homecoming for those of us whom we have travelled together ( hit and miss) since St. Jean when we all finally arrive in Santiago on or about June 7th.

    I have pretty short days between 18 and 22 km for the days to come and another rest day in Leon before the distances start to become challenging again. It is going to be a pretty relaxing week on the Camino until the beginning of next weekend. Let the old wounds heal up and a few new ones that are creeping up heal as well without overtaxing them. It is surprising but even 400 km into this trip...our bodies are still adapting. It has surprised me a bit, but now it makes sense that there were pilgrim hospitals littered all across the Camino at the height of pilgrimages in the 13th century.    Lue lisää

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  • MatkaajaBrenda’s Camino
    Päivä 20

    Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun

    20. toukokuuta 2023, Espanja ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The weather is turning fine, and the trail today was much the same as the previous days with a few more rolling hills, and a few more curves ahead.

    I decided today, and once I arrived in Sahagun at the hotel here in Sahagun that tomorrow, I am going to move onto Leon. The itinerary has me walking to Leon over the next coming days, but I feel I have seen and experienced as much as I need on this part of the Camino and because my shin is beginning to give me a bit of grief, my time is better spent in Leon.

    It is one of the challenges of having a booked itinerary. So while, I do not have to deal with the "bed rush" daily in some way or another, I lose the flexibility to experience the Camino as I need to experience it. I don't mind sacrificing a few days on the trail for a more satisfying experience if I push ahead to Leon.

    Today on my walk, I saw "real" bodegas...caves cut into the hills where locals store their wine, meat and cheese. Scattered around the Camino are hermitages. Given that there are quite a lot of them, I think that in the 13th century, give or take some, if men or women did not want to marry, nor did they want to join a monastery or a convent becoming a hermit was a choice. The site of the hermitage in the picture is unusual in that it belonged to a woman. This site is also interesting in that in 2021 Roman ruins were discovered. These ruins are part of a roman road or a dwelling that they have so far unearthed. It is not an active archaeological site, but there for anyone to see and walk around. I find it interesting how civilizations build on top of each other. We also learned this when travelling in Italy and the same is also true in Spain.    Lue lisää

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