• John Bickerstaff
jul. – aug. 2019

Finland & Baltic Russia

July 2019 Læs mere
  • Start på rejsen
    25. juli 2019

    Happy Now?

    26. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Hindsight is a wonderful thing. On reflection when checking in & finding standby on the boarding passes, alarm bells should've rung. They did not. Journey in was fine, though Liz's dad looked like he was going to have to deal with the after effects of a crash on the M56. Struggled to even locate the check in desk (67-68) and signs only went upto 65 - the joys of Manchester airport. The 'cheerful' check in clerk informed us that we might get on the flight & thought that that was a sufficient explanation. I begged to differ & wanted some clarification on why & what was entailed. She wasn't keen. Buck was swiftly passed. Her manager was dealing with a guy who didn't have a visa for Finland so was struggling to get on our potential flight... He went through the details - over booked etc. Clarified that if we were refused we would be accomodated & compensated - more relaxed after that. Told to go through as normal & we'd be notified at the gate. Our bags would only go on if we did. Sounded simple - ho hum. What was more annoying was the fact that during all this Paddy Berger & Vladi Smicer (LFC greats) were checking in just along from us & all we could do was watch. But for Finair we'd have been over there with Paddy & Vladi - yeah right. Grabbed some food & tried to find a relatively cool spot - not sorted their aircon. Gate was announced & checked - boarding passes - going to Finland yeah - no compo - boo. Boarding took forever & it was the same staff as check-in & I got a snarky 'happy now?' when handing over the passport. Didn't hear, which was probably for the best. Saddled with some fidgety kids going out to Singapore - mum was wanting them to sleep but let them stuff themselves silly with sweets. Nice sunset on coming into Helsinki - apparently (no window seat) Going to be light nights up here.Læs mere

  • Bearings got(ish)

    26. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    On checking in, we were informed breakfast was from 6 - 9.30 - plenty of time. Woke around 5ish & dozed a little. In fact is wasn't a little but a lot - 9. No windows & darkness can do this - probably the only time we are going to get that here. Dashed down & made it in time. Checked out & train into town easily. 1 mile walk from the station to the apartment seemed do-able & there were no complaints from Liz ... at that point. To be fair the tram was an option all the way & it wasn't pushed but her shoulders weren't happy with 12kg if weight. Unsurpringly the apartment wasn't ready so off for an explore. Headed to the coastal walk taking in the Finnish Icebreaker fleet - world leaders apparently. Pleasant walk took us to the tourist harbour & the market. Picked up a dollop of cherries & headed for a shady spot in a nearby park. Cherries & a sea breeze - nice.Læs mere

  • Church frenzy

    26. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Prior to travelling, youtube tourist vids had a bit a hammering & one of the things mentioned was a secular chapel near the station. Tourist Info was at the station so 2 birds killed with 1 stone - happy days. It was as typically Scandinavian as you could get. If Ikea made chapels... Inside it was amazingly peaceful - the noise of Liz moving the leaflet was quite stark. Took a couple of photos & got told off - with a sign. The warden came upto me & waved it at me - no words said other than a sheepish sorry. Took in some bizarre art - a holy car [as in a car with holes], a chrome war memorial & a statue that spoke to you??
    Apparently foodwise the Finnish have a couple of weaknesses - berries, licorice & ice cream. Done the berries, aint doing licorice & had some epic gelato (as it was called) along the esplanadi. Very rich & very bad for me. Nice. Tourist info provided an abundance of maps & leaflets & ideas. Headed back via the 2 cathedrals. Both very different - can't think what that reminds me of. Checked in to discover that the radiator was stuck on - not great with it being high 20's. Eventually got some fans, chocolate as an apology & an assurance that maintenance would be onto it tomorrow. Local supermarket for a pasta tea.
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  • The Golden Hour

    26. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Post pasta bloatedness called for an evening constitutional & even at 9 the sun was out but the fierce heat had subsided (at least outside - not in the bathroom) Decided to have a walk along the waterfront the other way to a little island. Nice & quiet until we got to the Karaoke bar - not in full swing but busy. Crossed a little bridge & turned back to see the cathedral looming golden in the setting sun. Crossed a causeway to the island to be greeted by hefty clouds of midges. They subsided a bit on the island but the party dudes increased not the most tranquil of sundowner locations. Made for the exit - Liz chased by the midges - already sussed who was the tastier.Læs mere

  • Goose poo spotting

    27. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Handily enough there was a bike hire shop just round the corner. The bike share & scooter share options didn't work, former too complicated, the latter too expensive. With the weather being so nice & the trams potentially being stiflingly hot, cycling seemed the best way of getting a little way out to parks & beaches. Initial impressions suggested Helsinki had an abundance of cycle lanes & was flat - big ticks for Liz. On that basis hunking big city bikes were chosen - cheapest. All was well & flat until the railway had to be crossed. Heavy & high gears didn't go well. First stop was the church in the rock - literally a church built into a rock. Bit of road & up more hills only to find it had closed 5 mins ago. Headed to the nearest beach for a pit stop. Getting busy so decided to go to the Sibellius monument in some shady parkland area - for it was getting hot now. Unfortunately numerous coachloads of Yanks & Japanese had the same plan. Not quiet the peaceful spot imagined. Took in a waterside cafe for lunch - cheese & ham pasty - was corrected (it's a pastry) & some cake. Found a goose poo free spot & holed out in the shade before heading to the beach for a first ever Baltic swim - bracing.Læs mere

  • Rocking it.

    27. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    A Baltic swim definitely cools but Liz needed a little quality shade time before we tried the climb to the Rock Chapel again. Equally, dripping in a church probably isn't the done thing. Less coach parties at the chapel this time though it was still pretty busy & despite the signs indicating silence, it was anything but. An official resorted to a stern warning & then the most mellow & drawn out shhhhhhhhhh you could imagine - possibly a doped up teacher pensioner. Liz chilled & I mooched. The plan was to follow the cycle path back to market square taking in a city vista along the way. Road works & my inability to signal my intentions led to a fraught Liz - hot, bothered & not happy about having to go on the roads. An orange juice wouldn't cut it but that was all that was going. Thankfully post orange, the cycle path became more reliable & flatter. Stopped to watch in wonder / horror at Finland's highest bungee. The cycle guy was a little bemused that the bikes were wheeled up rather than ridden - the final hill was the final straw. Weariness meant eating in & a short walk to the icebreakers.Læs mere

  • Half of Helsinki on an Island.

    28. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Habitual holiday morning run around the peninsula - already very warm at 8.30. Laid back breakie & ambled into town to catch the ferry to Suomenlinna Island Fortress - problem was that on a hot Sunday it was possible that half of Helsinki had also decided to seek out somewhere peaceful, a short ferry away from the city - thus not peaceful. Took a chance - hoped for the best that the hoardes would be spread out. Short crossing with some nice views of the city. On docking, we made a point of going the opposite direction to the masses, which happened to be in the direction of the WW1 Prisoner of War memorial ... in theory. Try as we might, it could not be located. Took a shade break to plan & watch one of the many cruise liners depart Helsinki. Slow walk uphill to begin exploring, just as the next ferry came in. Rats. Stopped at a water fountain & amusedly watched as people struggled to fill up bottles - really wasn't as hard as they made it look. Took a shade stop in the church - yet another Ikea looking church. At this point it occured that picnic options would be good - bit late for a supermarket in town but back where the boat docked was a grocery store. We turned left off the boat, if we'd turned right we wouldn't have ended up doing a huge circle but directly in front of the store - ah well. Found a shady spot at the Artilliary Bay Quay, ate & watched the world go by. Considering how many people were here (full ferries every 15 mins) it was remarkably calm - maybe everyone was at the beach. Prior to coming Liz had picked out the one museum that she might end up getting dragged around & she called it - a matter of metres from the lunch spot was one of only a few u-boats open to the public. This was probably one of the first built, as it was a prototype. It was then given to the Finnish. Liz found a shady spot while the true cramped nature of a U-boat became apparent. Yikes.Læs mere

  • Scorchio

    28. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Onwards in the afternoon heat - took a wrong turn trying to find the beach but eventually figured out location & made our way to the Northern most quay - Kings Gate Quay, just as a wedding was kicking out - people in posh clobber sheltering in the shade from the sun - the Finnish are struggling as well. Found a shady spot & watched the happy couple do their stupid posing for photies thing. Liz was hankering after more shade & reading so I went off for an explore - walk along the ramparts (massive guns) - found the beach (very not massive) Took in the old dry dock as well as getting lost again. Not a problem with locating myself in a big city - a couple of islands - not so much. Decided to hit the boat back before the rush & judging by the number still arriving as we left, there may be something of a queue later on. Back to cool off & another meal in. Evening walk & things were definitely fresher - sign of things to come. Watched a bubble guru entertaining the kids producing clouds of bubbles with a simple contraption. Fascinating.Læs mere

  • Cruiser coach carnage

    29. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Woke up to find things sonewhat cooler - still bright but breezier. Still ended up sweating buckets running. Ate up & pack up time, though no great hurry. Hertz pick up at 12. Still Liz wanted to see Helsinki Cathedral - the white one - so needed to leave a little extra to do that & get across town. Checked out & dumped bags. Lots of people on the cathedral steps, most probably from cruises. A busker was doing the theme to Titanic - classic not knowing your audience. Looking down from the steps 13 coaches were parked up & a few round the corner. This wasn't likely to be a tranquil experience. Suprisingly it proved to be more so than expected. A volunteer took to the pulpit to give an account of the church's history - made it harder for people to be noisy. Had a little wander round & by the time we headed off there was a queue to get in. Car pick up was nice & easy. Guy in front had to go & get his car - we had ours brought to us. Lots of toys but concentration was needed - had to avoid hitting people, bikes & trams. Back to the the apartment, loaded up & headed out to Hanko.Læs mere

  • Hanko - a Finnish Llandudno

    29. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Between Helsinki & Hanko - trees & more trees. A 70 mile journey drew parallels with day trips to Llandudno. We didn't pass through a single town or village of any note, plenty of farms & a couple of intriguing war museums - the parallels dried up pretty quickly. Plesantly surprised to note, on arrival, that Hanko has a Thai restaurant, also has an Elvis burger - all isn't great. Happily we could check in early, though the cakes in the cafe were more appealing to Liz than unpacking. The usual explore - 3 beaches a stones throw away. Took a look at the tourist quay - lots of expensive boats & restaurants. Headed to the main beach - where 'everyone' was. It was busier than the other 2 beaches - more by default - the other 2 had no-one on them. Took another bracing Baltic dip - though it wasn't as bad as expected (again) though very shallow & the lack of waves made getting in a challenge. Not the only challenge - finding an open restaurant. Seems the thing to do here is lunch late or dinner early. By 6 most were closed - it'd blow Spanish minds. Ended up resorting to one of the pricey quayside joints - the priciest pizza ever - was very nice though.Læs mere

  • Breakie with a blanket

    30. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Another town, another run route - along one of the further town beaches. Bit windy & bit chilly - not many out. Back in plenty of time for breakie - would it be sufficient to get through to a late lunch / early tea. Slight cause for concern was a couple of girls eating outside in the chill - just hardy Fins. On closer inspection there were plainly too few tables for the full hotel - we were going to have to be hardy too - at least there were blankets. That said I was still a bit warm from the run. What irked was a couple of people who had downstairs sun rooms next to the lounge chose to eat in the lounge. Not fair. Inspite of the chill, filled up with multiple dollops of porridge, pancakes, Finnish meatballs & fruit. The onset of light rain suggested a beach day wasn't in the offing so a walking day it was to be. Nearby headland walk - apparently named the lovers path, which rather incongruously had numerous remains of Finland's part in the war. Eventually the sun appeared & helped the views of Hanko. The bunkers & gun emplacements were interesting, though still need to determine where Finland figures in the cast of WW2. Back to town & stumbled on the toursit info - got some recommendations, 1 of which was to climb the water tower, though it wasn't open for 20 mins. She gave us an architecture tour brochure to tide us over. Where a bizarre seal / worm / loch ness monster sculpture figures on that is open to debate. The watertower / watchtower was only 2 euros - for once sonething in Finland that is cheap. A creaky lift took us up & the views of the town & the Batic Islands were great. Picked out where we were staying & even our car. Popped into the church on the way back - typical Scandinavian minimalism - yet again.Læs mere

  • Entertaining crows

    30. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    One of the other recommendations was a 5 mile hike to the most Southerly point on mainland Finland, but with lunchtime being the only time at the Thai, it seemed a trifle optimistic to get that done. Opted for a nature trail that had been circled on the hotel map. According to Google there didn't appear to be any parking so it was possible it could be a 6 mile drive to nowhere. Thankfully there was & only 1 other car - unlikely to be disturbed by ghetto blasters as the info plaques repeatedly showed illustrating strange goings on. A couple of the does and don'ts google managed to translate (badly) others - no sense. Contrasting walk through woodland (apt since 70% of Finland is wooded) seashore & rocky outcrop island. As we left the hoades approached - 1 family, 1 man & his dog. Headed back via the Thai to check it looked open - check. Back to sort a couple of things & then off for Thai. Except - went in - plenty of food at the buffet, people sat down, went to the cashier to pay / check procedure. "We're closed" err right. Sharp exit. Bizarre - lots of food going to waste - might want to update your sign that says open till 6. Took a drive to the North to ponder next move. Had a look at a fish restaurant - swiftly rejected when fish & chips came in at £23 each. Headed to Lidl to sort a picnic on the beach. Ended up being stalked by a crow - circled us numerous times - couldn't make out how to get the crumbs. Entertaining. Watched a few hardy souls going for an evening swim - not for me - though they did have wetsuits - wimps.Læs mere

  • Heading South

    31. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Made damn sure we were inside for breakie - there on the dot of 8 - first in (not last out though) Having been up early we were blessed with time to do the walk to the most Southerly point in Finland. The catch was the weather was a bit rubbish - rained just before breakie, was windy & to be frank a bit chilly - I know Finland is an Arctic country but it was 30° a couple of days ago. Wrapped up warm(ish) or at least as well as packed clothing allowed. Car park was fairly empty & didn't encounter many people going out. Plenty of signs in English about shipwrecks, sea cale & the German barracks. Thankfully by the time we made it to the Finnish Lands End, things were beginning to brighten up. To compare it to Lands End is daft really - it is far more subdued - a faded plaque & that is it. The fact that it is a nature reserve may have something to do with it. Headed back & things were definitely getting busier - much too much singing for my liking. By the car coats & fleeces had been discarded.Læs mere

  • Mad weather

    31. juli 2019, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Back to the hotel & sat out on the veranda for a while soaking up the rays, reading & scoffing bickies. By now the wind had really calmed down so a final bit of beach time was called for - no beaches or sunshine by the look of it in Russia. Thought I'd give Stand up surfing a go. If I can't manage it when it's a mill pond, there's no hope. Was a bit wobbly initially but got the hang of it - no surf so just paddling ... to an island, to the next beach, to disturb Liz & her reading. Managed to avoid falling in - contemplated diving in to cool off - hard work - but wasn't sure I'd be able to get back on. Board returned & off for tea - the beach shack was open & the sun was out - burger & a beer - what could be better? A fairly steep price. It was nice though. Wandered back via the far beach & the oldies tennis tournament - still whacking it hard.Læs mere

  • Full price??

    1. august 2019, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Early start for a completely different reason - had to get the car back by 12 (75 miles wasn't too challenging really) Still - got to breakie before anyone else - very stodgy porridge today. Packed last night so had time for a final walk to the town beach & quay. Back to check out & was asked about the dodgy smell in the toilet (not of my making) It had been mentioned & investigated - not rectified so they knocked off 10% While in Hanko I got an email from the Helsinki hotel refunding us 50€ for the heating problems. Finland's still eye wateringly expensive but this has softened blow. Drive back was uneventful, which is good. Filling up was a little more challenging - had to authorise your card at a separate card reader prior to filling up - had to go in & ask for guidance. As for Hertz - getting into the car park was ok, getting out not so much. Ended up taking a most circuitous route. By the time we got back someone else was on duty. All along the plan was to take in Uspenski Russian Orthodox Cathedral. The contrast with everything else we've seen was marked - amazingly ornate, artefacts everywhere and much smaller than expected. That done - loose end for a few hours. Decided to scout out tram links to the port & then head out to Finlandia Hall - Finland's version of the Sydney Opera House. Couldn't find our way in - didn't help that we tried to get in the back. Not much - other than some kitsch chairs that were ridiculously comfy. Curious about another building that seemed to be attracting attention - turned out it was the library. There was music, radio & tv being broadcast. Inside it was a hive of activity - rows of 3d printers, microscopes, computers, performance areas, games to rent, footballs and basketballs - you name it. Shows what can be done if there is the will & funding. They clearly value learning & fund it accordingly - not everything is about profit! Took in a final ice cream at the Esplanedi park & then off to the port.Læs mere

  • How loud?

    1. august 2019, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    So much to do - so little time. Stopped at Lidl for tea & breakie stuff - on booking it became apparent that the cost of food was high (probably cheap by Finnish standards) so stocking up was the option. Then on to the station to pick up our bags (lockers) Just missed the tram to the West Quay so a bit of a wait & the crowds waiting grew - would we all fit on? It was a tight squeeze & I almost fell into old ladies lap when the tram lurched around a bend (no hand holds) - tourists pah! Got chatting to a cockney who lived in Helsinki - such weather is abnormal & he maintains the best time of year is winter. Skeptical. Took in the naughty boy statue & on to the check in. Not the worst queue, but not the fastest of procedures. Scooted through fairly painlessly - unlike those going to Tallinn - looked carnage. On boarding we had to have all bags scanned - just 1 machine - that's going to cause chaos (it did) Then had to have a photo with someone dressed up as the captain. Found our pokey room - worryingly situated on the deck below the live entertainment ... till 1am. Not good. While most were boozing we watched as Helsinki slipped into the distance. Onwards to Russia. Had some tea & asked to see if there were any alternative rooms. The only option was opposite ours - no point. By 10 the true noise level was becoming clear - sleep is likely to elude me.Læs mere

  • Back in the USSR - for the first time.

    2. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    What a manic day. Sleep only arrived at 1am when the taste free zone that was the retro disco subsided & then the rowdy drunks rolled in afterwards. Other than the noise, the cabin was surprisingly comfortable & it was at 7.30 that we surfaced to discover not ocean views but dockside views of presumably St Petersburg. Much earlier than expected & much sunnier. Back for picnic breakfast & a little hurried repacking to hear a garbled announcement indicating that only VIPs would be disembarking at 9 - the Ps would commence at 9.30 hmmm - how would the transfer view that? In fairness I had told the hotel that passport control would take a while & there was no point the transfer being there at 9. How true that would prove. 9.30 came and went & there was no movement nor announcement. Finally at 9.45 we were off but everyone had to funnel into 1 staircase off the boat - that took a while. Then we had to guess which queue was the non-Russian immigration option - the one that wasn't moving & proceded to not move for ages. It was a minor victory just to get in the building. 10.45 came & we were no closer or so it seemed. Once within sight of the passport posts, we thankfully made a correct choice & were through in 90 mins. Transfer located - relief but by now the clouds were rolling in. Not for him though. He had to contend with St Petersburg traffic on an army day. Cars with flags flying around & google telling him all roads are red. Eventually wound up at the hotel over 3 hours after the boat docked. Not good & to top it off the price quoted had almost doubled because he had to wait so long - I said not to wait! Still it was a far less stressful way to get to the hotel & I would have my revenge... Settled in, thankfully having early access to the room. Wanted to take in a game at St Petersburg's stadium - supposedly the most expensive in the world, so sought advice from the receptionist. She suggested we could go through the process online together. Happy days. Both my cards got spat out. Worrying days. She said the alternative was to have them delivered - no extra cost. She'd phone, check & get back to me. She came up later - not happening. She offered to pay on her card & we could repay her. Way to go the extra mile. Concerned by the card issue so first port of call on exploring was a cashpoint. Google showed up 3 nearby. None seemed to exist on inspection. Even more worrying. Decided to wander a little more & hope one turned up. Thankfully a Dutch bank did & the card worked. Cue much relief. Off to the shop - megre pickings but sorted breakie. Back for a chill before a little more exploration - Hermitage & a recommended eaterie. The Hermitage was impressive & ludicrously busy as were the roads - still (car park like) Food, thankfully, proved a little cheaper & English was indicated & understood. Went back via the Church of the saviour of spilt blood - snappy title. Unfortunately the main spire was shrouded in scaffolding & raindrops were beginning to fall - might be giving the fireworks a miss.Læs mere

  • Damn tour groups

    3. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    And so to the serious stuff - exploring St Petersburg and bizarre Russian cereal finished, we headed to the Petropavlosk Fortress - suposedly the only place to begin a St Petersburg odysey (so the guidebook says) Stepped out to discover things were a little fresh - thankful long trousers were chosen. Getting to the fortress involved a short walk, punctuated by exasperated chunnering along the way as we were barged out of the way - some just rude, most tour groups just getting in the way. Once on Hare Island, there were constant reminders of the Island's naming - hares everywhere (not real) & hoardes waiting for photo ops - gratuitous posing & lots of pouting. As we approached the cathedral, noticed a number of groups heading in a different direction & remembered the midday gun fire. Got there just in time for a bit of pomp & then to almost shit ourselves when the gun went off. Off to the museum of space exploration. Some good exhibits - particularly from Alexi Leonov but let down in 2 ways both of which understandable. Very hit & miss with the English translations - obscure stuff got them, soyuz & sputnik stuff didn't. Also it was very big on the minutia of rocket engines, which got a little boring even for me. The Gagarin stuff was very good though. Liz particularly liked sitting down & resting her aching limbs. By now hunger was a thing - no huge Finnish breakfasts. Nothing around the fortress & no snacks in of note. Decided to have a big lunch & if needed get something at the footie. Opted for the highly rated Brisket BBQ just around the corner - a slice of the states in the USSR. Probably didn't have anything this American in the whole time we were there. Very nice brisket & beef cheeks. Headed back stuffed & to prepare for a match Ruski style. Not sure what to expect.Læs mere

  • Footie Ruski style

    3. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    While Liz was resting I scouted out the metro. Had a somewhat fraught discussion with the only person on duty with any degree of English - he was most apologetic. Established what we needed to get to the match - he was most envious. He couldn't get his head round why I didn't get the tokens there & then. I on the other couldn't establish whether they would expire. Equally I couldn't remember how to say thank you & that stressed him out. 1 hour later we were buying our tokens & getting squashed into the metro, Tokyo style. There were other Zenit fans so we had someone to follow at the other end - unless they were heading for a punch up. Stadium & metro line all very new courtesy of FIFA. Once out of the train it was a very convoluted route to the stadium. Bit confused about where to go & even more confused when the steward tried to explain. Extreme warnings on the tickets - no flares, poison, knives etc, were matched with extreme security - airport style. Thankfully got through & had to tackle vast flights of stairs - so much so there were benches half way up. Escalators up to the 2nd tier & a great view of the match, the stadium but also the surrounding area - including the tallest building in Europe - Gazprom's head office from the Gazprom Arena. Makes you think - dodgy dealings maybe. The Zenit fans made a pretty good noise - their team not so much. Conceded a comical own goal. They got very excited when their new signing came on - not that he did too much. Got a last minute equaliser just after we left - had to beat the traffic. Stadium looked spot on at night - as per design, just like a UFO. No wonder it's the most expensive stadium in the world.Læs mere

  • Gangster goings on(ish)

    4. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Very late finish meant a late start, to the point where we were dashing around just to make the midday gun salute. The idea being to take in the walk along the fortress walls at the time of the firing, thus getting a different view. A little fazed by the lack of traffic outside & saw people running at the end of the road - the St Petersburg Half Marathon. Dodged the runners getting to the bridge & dodged sone more tour parties on the way to the wall. Good spot - still jumped at midday & the cathedral still had massive queues. Walked round to the beach for some nice views of the city. Took a walk along the river to the warship Aurora, which kicked off the revolution in 1917 and it kind of kicked off while we there. A couple of guys with fighting birds were hanging round. Most Russian guys look like bouncers or gangsters - these were no different except they acted that way as well. Got into an argument with some women & promptly chucked her holdall in the river & then promptly ran off [not very gangster that] The family were shaken, bemused & shouted a lot. God knows what the argument was about but best get out of the way. Off to Subway for an easy sarnie. Energy restored - took in St Isaac's Cathedral - massive queue (as there was at the Aurora) found the Bronze Horseman (featured in a book of Liz's) Walked along the river past the Hermitage (epic queue) & ridiculous number of coaches - going to be fun that one. Back in time to watch the mighty reds, handily enough on Russian tv. Decent game - city were lucky. Cooked a Caucasian pasta dish - very spicy. Nice.Læs mere

  • Cathedral bagging

    5. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Early morning run showed up how much busier the roads were on weekdays. Equally a lot of business types were hurrying to work - not keen on having an unfit plodder getting in their way. The challenge today was to avoid queues - some hope but you never know. Didn't get to the first cathedral quite as early as hoped but the surrounding area did seem a little quieter - could it be that with the Hermitage being closed tour groups would be less keen / less booked. Nope. Though the queues did seem shorter. On entering it became apparent that they were all inside or so it seemed. Not the most peaceful of places but certainly one of the most ornate and decorative. Every wall was covered in colourful mosaics - must take some maintaining. The ticket claimed to be a museum but that was stretching it a little - a few placards & everything else relied upon the audio guide - 200 rubles extra. Stopped in at Kazan Cathedral on the way to St Isaac's. Amazed to find a place of worship where there was some worshiping going on & there was no charge. What really took your breath away was the smell of incense. By now I was a bit churched out & the hope was that we could go up to the collonade at St Isaac's without having to pay to go in the church as well. Again queues weren't too bad & the ticket agent complied so just the views without the god squad stuff - also meant earlier lunch which got Liz's vote. Views of the river, the Hermitage & the distant stadium were very good.Læs mere

  • More general naughtiness on view.

    5. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Sarnies consumed, it was off for a walk, primarily to see the lighthouses on the other side of the river but also in an effort to get away from the endless traffic & enjoy the bizarre feeling of sunshine. Crossing the bridge to the lighthouses proved about the busiest stretch of the walk but offered views of the Hermitage & the bustling river traffic - mostly pleasure cruisers with the odd hydrofoil shuttle to Peterhof - each time I tried to get a photo of them mid foil they either throttled down or they were gone too quick - camera shy. The lighthouses were surprisingly big & rather like Finland, it seemed like all maintenance work is carried out en-masse in the summer 2 of the 3 cathedrals & the lighthouses were having work done. Walking back through the fortress - traffic free but not crowd free. Nice walk along the beach & got into a little political talk with former history lecturer - sales pitch for tours but interesting nonetheless. Couldn't quite square his take that Trump was a bit mad but Obama was a liar & warmonger. I guess when Putin owns the press... Back to the hotel & settled in my perch. Intrigued by some comings & goings outside our hotel. Eventually sussed that a car had blocked in a couple of people. They were not happy. Eventually managed to manoeuvre their way out. By way of a thank you they deflated not 1 but 2 of the cars tyres & all 3 spat on it. The Russian way... Couldn't wait see the response since the car was know parked in the middle of the road with 2 flat / soft tyres. All through cooking & eating tea we kept checking. Got distracted by planning getting to the station for the Moscow leg - looked out & it had gone. No beatings, guns or going after the tourists who saw what had happened & did nothing. Ah well off to the bizarre hidden maze of a supermarket to replenish stocks.Læs mere

  • Midnight madness

    6. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    A little investigation prompted by a memory of seeing something about multiple drawbridge movements at midnight. Revealed that indeed the 2 local bridges were due to go up at 1.10 & 1.20. Branded as utter lunacy by Liz. Suggested by mulriple websites that viewing both is very challenging - bring it on - alarm set. Skulked out as quietly as possible & dashed down to the river front. The first to draw was the Palace bridge - further away. Lots of people perched on the river wall suggested something was happening. The advent of piped classical music confirmed this & the bridge began to open. Once done loads of boats flooded through, prompting a dash to our local bridge. Made it with a minute or so to spare. Happy days. No classical music this time - just traffic chaos - St Petersburg now separated by the river. Back to bed - a bit warm.Læs mere

  • Bring on the revolution.

    6. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    A visit to St Petersburg without visiting the Hermitage is supposedly sacrilege. On a rare sunny day spending it indoors seemed equally like sacrilege but the culture won out. The plan was to get there early to mitigate against the worst of the queues. On approach that seemed a forlorn hope, a mammoth queue snaking out of the front. Thankfully that was the tour parties. Took a punt on the machines - didn't seem too bad, though there was little movement. Transpired the automatic machines didn't start till the manned terminals. Bizarrely, just as we were getting close the family in front seemed to opt for the long manual version. Better for us. Made it in by 11 - 30 min wait - not bad. Maze like structure of the place meant mapwork was essential. Spent a bit of time awestruck by the oppulence of the place - completely understood why there was a revolution - the riches seemed obscene but also impressively ornate. Managed to take in the Peacock clock & the Da Vinci room but by now the tour parties were taking on the persona of the devil. If I got out of here without inflicting pain on someone it would be a major achievement. Blocking corridors, barging in front of you, taking vast amounts of unnecessary photos... Retired to the rammed cafe, with nowhere near enough seating, for a sarnie - floor would have to suffice. Liz was keen to see some impressionistic stuff so up & down we traipsed through the French & Dutch sections. Turns out it was in the Workers Quarters - a separate museum. Tried to find the Golden room - turns out that was a guided tour that had to be booked separately. To top it off the Feberge egg that was supposed to be in room 302 was nowhere to be seen. Time to go. Back to the hotel to cool down.Læs mere

  • Culture overload.

    6. august 2019, Rusland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Since Liz was keen to see the Faberge egg at the Hermitage it seemed that to rectify that omission a visit to the Faberge museum might help. Once rested & a station bound cheap taxi booked for the morning, a pleasant walk through the park got us to a quieter end of town. A little ticket confusion at the entrance & then straight into the eggs. As a museum they kind of shot their bolt though because everything seemed a little tame by comparison - a decorated cigarette box?? Not sure I'll be able to cope with another gallery but the eggs were quite nice - was that what Faberge was aiming for as a response from the Tsars. Ambled back via a recommended Georgian restaurant and the bizarrely named Fields of Mars (a memorial to fallen soldiers)Læs mere