Ponferrada - Peñalba - León

What a way to start the day! Iberia canceled our June 19 flight from Bilbao to Madrid, which led to an hour-long phone marathon between Iberia and American Airlines. Fortunately, everything was eventually sorted out. We now have new flights and confirmed seat assignments. As a result, our return to the United States has been moved up by one day. We are now scheduled to arrive in Dallas on June 17 at 3:56 PM.

Before leaving Ponferrada, we walked into town and enjoyed coffee and pastries at a unique bakery that Kurt had spotted the night before during our evening stroll.

Around 10:00 AM, we headed into the nearby mountains for a hike. The narrow, winding road quickly climbed in elevation, and our ears needed frequent adjustments as we gained altitude. About 40 minutes later, we arrived in the picturesque mountain village of Peñalba de Santiago.

The village is full of character, with cobblestone streets, stone houses, slate roofs, and wooden balconies. Founded centuries ago by a small monastic community, Peñalba is closely linked to the nearby Valley of Silence. The monks used a cave located several miles away on the opposite side of the valley as a place for prayer and meditation. Reaching that cave was the goal of today’s hike.

The trail led us through beautiful countryside and unspoiled nature. Along the way, we passed vegetable gardens and orchards filled with apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees. We also encountered two local women carrying baskets overflowing with freshly picked chanterelle mushrooms. At one point, I greeted a Chinese hiker with a cheerful “Nǐ hǎo,” which earned me a broad smile.

The cave itself was relatively small, featuring a few steps leading up to a simple platform and altar. While not grand in size, the setting conveyed a sense of peace and history that made the hike worthwhile.

Back in Peñalba, we stopped at a local restaurant for refreshments and a light meal before descending to Ponferrada and continuing east on Highway 6 toward León.

Our accommodation for the night was the Crisol Quindós Hotel, located about 1.2 miles from the city center.

For dinner, we followed the recommendation of a couple from León whom we had met earlier in Peñalba and dined at La Bodega del Húmedo. While the restaurant was pleasant and the atmosphere enjoyable, the food was good rather than exceptional, and none of our dishes particularly stood out.

Even so, it was another memorable day filled with mountain scenery, history, hiking, and unexpected encounters. Northern Spain continues to impress us at every turn.Weiterlesen