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Tramps like Us

Maret - Juni 2022
And so it begins…..First stop KOSI BAY Baca selengkapnya
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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 10

    Day 10/2 - Clarens and Royal Natal

    25 Maret 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Unbeknown to me, the R712 which travels between Phuthaditjhaba and Clarens was previously controlled by an Entry/Exit Gate on both ends of the “Golden Gate Highlands National Park” buildings, now only raided, derelict constructions uncontrolled and not in use. So this road runs right through the National Park and slap bang through the middle of the campsite, completely open to regular traffic, including High speed taxis traversing between the two towns. Security = Nil However it turned out to be completely safe!

    With only 20km from the campsite to Clarens, after our run we decided to treat ourselves to a spoil and a brekky in Clarens. Well worth the trip, the brekky and the scenery, and even supported the Local Community Initiative and had the car washed by the local lads.

    Afterwards we returned to campsite, collected the caravan and headed to the “Royal Natal National Park” and the home to the Bearded Vulture (apparently)!

    This road (R74) in comparison was in places dangerous as hell! All the warning signs to mind cattle and Kudu’s (no Ross, Kudu’s) but no mention of the massive sink holes and subsidence of the tar road on both sides! Hole across both lanes in places, big and deep enough to swallow the Fortuner and caravan at once! Only an unattended Stop/Go post for motorists to make their own call!!!😱😱😱

    Other than that, although cloud patches mostly on the Berg a beautiful drive in. After setting up camp, we took a recommended hiking trail along a crystal clear river, waterfall and deep ponds. When we initially arrived, the campsite was occupied but again far from full. We settled into a site far from everyone else which although desirable turned out to be sub-optimal! Everyone well settled by sunset, the Durban brother’s arrived well after. Right in beside us, in 3 cars and 15 occupants! Soon after evening prayers, tents started to be pitched until (and unbeknown to us) they realised their site was right on top of a bog! So, we’ll into the night they had to uplift and find an alternative site😢

    The silence now restored, we were able to take on night 10/96 in complete peace and quiet.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 11

    Day 11 - Monk's Cowl

    26 Maret 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    .... and I know nearly 30 years have passed, but seriously living/moving outside one's 'Hood', has its challenges!!!

    Having travelled nearly 2,500km in 10 days, I am feeling like a lost soul and stranger in my own country! Moving on and changing, growing, and developing and and and.... I get it, but has anyone driven through the UThuleka Municipality, or the .... you could be anywhere on Earth.

    I feel very alone here!

    The most fantastic part of 'The Royal Natal National Park' is only all in the name! Very average campsite, no problems in general however it had the feeling of a High School camp-out on the three adjacent rugby fields. Hot shower ☑️ Twin-ply☑️ Security☑️ etc,etc,etc☑️ Karen says, No Clothes Hooks behind the Door.... -10 points ❌

    In every campsite so far, there has been at least a measure of semi-privacy, seclusion and a touch of character, a tree or bush. TRNNP could easily have been the B,C,D and E Rugby fields at Loftus Versveldt😖

    Zero points for exclusivity and character, and will probably only be remembered for its false/non start! Of course the countryside from the R74 to the camp (apart from the Telephone and Electricity poles marring a beautiful view) was stunning from a distance, but sadly a 'NIL' score here.

    We tripped up the R74 in the direction of Bergville and Winterton back into the real Drakensberg, heading for Monks Cowl Campsite. The most perfect position here was waiting for us. Everyone else there were envious and all said they would've easily packed up their camp and relocated there... but they didn't and if you 'snooze you loose'! The view of the Escarpment less than 500m away is spectacular. We pitched camp and walked a fine trail... and went to bed before the Iceman attacked us here.... true story 🥶    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 12

    Day 12 - Khotso Campsite (Underberg)

    27 Maret 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    At some point one needs to concede and start to believe in Science and Physiology!

    Traveling from St.Lucia to the Drakensberg is a variation of 1,500m above sea level. Running up here at Monks Cowl this morning was a whole lot different experience! Altitude is a killer and now you will be pleased to know, at last it is a proven fact! Some will argue that the lack of 'Captain Morgan's' performance enhancing capabilities, may also have played a part in the lack of output this morning.

    What a stunning view from our campsite of Champagne Castle on the left and 'Dragon's Peak' and 'Dragons Back'! Way back in the distance, it was so clear that a glimps of 'Giants Castle' was also visible. That was at 05:30 this morning but by 09:00 thick banks of mist had already formed and settled, covering all the peaks.

    It must again be said, that it is sinful not to have spent quality time, right here. This is an awesome place! Not one photograph (and by now you have already seen many, but far from most), not one photograph captures this beautiful place. You just cannot even fit it all in. We spent the better part of the morning here, packed up and moved on.

    Hitting the road out of Monk’s Cowl, a bit later than planned meant we were again behind, meaning and regrettably we had to make it up on the road. Essentially, and against my plan a large portion of the distance/time had to be made on the road. We joined the N3 at Estcourt and got off at Howick about 100km later.

    From there on in, we followed Bulwer (R617) => Underberg where we arrived at our pre booked destination of Khotso Horse Trails & Campsite just outside Underberg. Now Khotso (meaning Freedom), was all along worrisome to me! Not knowing the meaning at all, did not resonate too well with me.

    However what a stunning place, not many sites and again mostly empty, just a few families all from KZN.
    Bathrooms clean and a cottage style finish, and all other requirements perfect. Luckily not situated on the direct Sani Pass roads, so no Sani tourists around👍🏻 The roads here are a thriller especially with a caravan in tow. KZN’s answer to severe potholes is that it is easier to create at least 3 equally severe speed humps right across both lanes in ahead of the pit, than to repair the road! They will argue that they are there as ‘traffic calming’ interventions!

    The countryside and farms in particular here in this part of Kwa-Zulu, are beautiful. The Umzimkulu River which terminates in the Indian Ocean, is a foul brown muddy, murky and polluted dishwater, up here very near its source, is crystal clear and flowing 10/10. Fishing here must be heaven!

    We packed out our full campsite for a two night stay, tomorrow being an epic highlight of our journey!

    Love, Peace and Light,
    M&K.

    (You will please just need to be patient with our posts, as the signal in most areas here is poor)😖😖😖    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 13

    Day 13 - Sani Pass & “Lunch in Lesotho”

    28 Maret 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Pretty much like drinking beer, each one gets better than the previous! As we have progressed, so each day has got even better, than the previous too!

    Today we left base camp and via Underberg and Himeville we set off to scale 'Sani Pass' and what an epic day it has been. Whilst I have been up Sani Pass once before, nearly twenty years ago, not a hell of a lot looked familiar. I did remember the scary vertical cliffs 2-3 hundred meters below😳less than a meter from the road edge. I had forgotten how bumpy and uneven the complete track is, top to bottom. The eroded gullies and the massive rocks all over the place, washed out stones and the numerous cave- a-ways. Exacerbated by the recent heavy rains in the Drakensberg, waterfalls on the mountainside of the path leave streams of water cascading over the road, and down the other side. Where the water cannot escape, car-size puddles form, making it anyones guess as to how deep it is, and how rocky it is under the water level.

    What an absolutely beautiful day, blue skies and cloudless. At the top we checked in at the Lesotho border control where we had to present our valid and negetive Rapid Covid test result, which we had administered down at the RSA gate Very professionally conducted and generally the best Immigration and Customs post in the country, at a cost of R250 each😖 I saw the control book and we were the seventh entry at just after 10:30 for the day. Yesterday (Sunday) I noted 11 entries for the entire day.🤔 We only met up with three other vehicles on the entire route, up and down.

    Initially the gradient commences at a respectable 12:1 but further up the canyon it escalates to an unreasonable 6:1 to an altitude of 2,873m amsl, at the Lesotho Border Post.

    The way up took us 1h30 and back down again, only an hour. Much of the time up into Lesotho, was also taking it in and dozens of pics. Through the border we visited "Black Mountain", the highest point in the area at 3,240m amsl. The tar road condition until the RSA gate, probably the best on the entire trip so far, and then between the two posts epic, like nobody owns it... or even wants to, but that exactly why we came here today!

    We had to have 'Lunch in Lesotho' and a 'Maluti' beer or two in the highest pub in Africa, which at anytime could have ended up being very far too festive, and equally irresponsible!    Baca selengkapnya

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    Hari 14

    Day 14/15 - Khotso & Munster

    29 Maret 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Underberg=> Coleford=> Kingskote=> Swartberg => Franklin => Kokstad=> Harding => iZingleweni => Port Edward => Munster, but not before an early morning 6km through the most beautiful landscape imaginable, green fields of crops and grass, lakes, dams, streams and rivers, all crystal clear water. All the way, against a backdrop of the full and cloudless Drakensberg range. Crazy!!!

    We packed up and left by 10:00 and following the route above arrived in Munster at 13:30.

    As beautiful as the landscape, what Vince and Jodi have transformed "Beachway Cottage into is stunning!!! Obviously we knew they were adding their flair and touch, but they have 'face lifted' it with such simple yet elegant taste. You guys have certainly taken the cottage and transformed it onto an amazing and tasteful home. I know I need not thank you, but I know both Gramps and Granny Farm will be so proud and delighted with the love and care you have both taken here🥰😘💐👍 Thank you!!!

    Karen and I will be spending the next week or ten days here, 'oaffing' and taking in a few little creature comforts, a great bed, good people, space to swing a small cat and generally just touching ground and sides, having been on the road now for exactly 2 weeks.

    That house and garden look so cared for and loved, it's going to be tough leaving here.

    After this, we are already plotting the way forward into the former 'Transkei' during the 10 or so days after Munster, so please don't expect too many posts during our time here in Munster, we will have to 'kick-back even more!!!

    Love, Peace and Light
    M&K
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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 16

    Day 16 - Munster

    31 Maret 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Yesterday (Wednesday) was a torturous 2hr journey to Durban to have Karen's "Biometrics" taken for her Spousal Visa... and 2hrs back. Karen had already organized this two weeks earlier, before we had left.

    Back at "Beachway" at around midday we went to the beach. As a result of all the heavy inland rain, the surf and for about 3 miles out, was murky, dirty water as the river's emptied right down the Natal South Coast.

    Nonetheless we spent the rest of the day swimming and just catching up with Vince and Jodi. In the evening Vince braaied fresh fish, which was also delicious. Uncountable bottles of beer and an equal amount of wine, managed to quench our thirst by midnight.

    Thursday, All weather Apps suggested cloudy conditions, rain and storms by 15:00, then 17:00 and eventually having run out of options, they arrived at 22:00.

    We did take in the obligatory early morning run, just after sunrise, which always culminates in a swim at Glenmore Beach. Within 24 hours the sea had cleared to a lighter shade of blue, and seeing that the Weather predictions were indeed wrong, made our journey to the beach for more sun, beer and laughter.

    A few drops finally arrived after having cooked a stunning dinner.

    The 'Doubting Thomas' now called Vince, sneered at my little 7 Bricket 'Cobb' oven! Roasted a delicious Whole Bird with 7 brickets in 100 minutes as promised. Equally crispy and delicious to any other roasted fowl anywhere!

    For many years, I have always preached 'Balance', although burning both ends all the time, its about balance. So, Tuesday night was Beef Fillet, Wednesday night 'Red Roman' and Thursday night Chicken (apparently also listed as a Vegetable) Friday night we will lend that 'balance' to our menu and routine.

    IT'S FRIDAY NIGHT ON THE SOUTH COAST, SO IT WILL BE, THE LEGENDARY "PISTOL'S SALOON"!!!🍻🍺🍺🍷🍷🍷

    Love, Peace and Light,
    M&K
    👍💐🍻    Baca selengkapnya

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    Hari 17

    Day 17 - Munster

    1 April 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    This morning now Friday, I am still battling with mental issues, having been personally embarrassed and humiliated by my own family! Now, throughout my entire life I have had to contend with being 'slagged' about the overdose content of Melanin in my DNA. Even the Moon has an effect on my complexion. As I struggle through life and all its complications and complexities, the biggest hang-up I have is singularly my metamorphosis from subhuman, briefly human and then rapidly to Lizard, Chameleon and Crocodile! I have been compared to Biltong and even called 'Leatherman'🤔 In photgraphs, Luke-Snail regularly asks Karen if that is an Old Leather Handbag next to her? 😖
    Nothing to be proud of in this day and age I know, but even Led lights have impact on my colouring. Yesterday, amidst gales of laughter (and I have no doubt, spurred on by an unreasonable quantity of Windhoek and Flying Fish), Vincent suggested that instead of me using Sunblock, that I rather make use of 'Leather Food' Hahaha!

    Karen... "Why doesn't Mark just use 'Dubin'???"...
    You are all just so funny!!!😖

    Friday 01 April - 'April Fools Day'.... was overcast and a bit miz' so, Vince and Jodes stuck us to a memorable and delicious breakfast at the "Earth Shed" . A slow drive through Shelley Beach and Margate took us to San Lameer and home. A late afternoon stroll, Vince and I took the dogs for a walk on the beach, and then......

    Another epic visit to "Pistol Saloon". Gallantly we mowed through copious litres of Beer, Savannah's and Red Wine to the gentle and raucous festivities and singing and dancing on the pub tables and bar counter! Apparently Covid is a thing if the past here on the Natal South Coast. Karen, I think must have been suffering from withdrawal symptoms due to the lack of festivities over the past two and a half week's of travelling and the past 2 and a half year's of Covid restrictions!! The Eisbein is still legendary!

    Referring to my life lessons of a 'full-tilt' balancing act earlier, we took last night to an extreme, at last countering the past few weeks/years, lack thereof.

    A great night by all!

    That's it....

    Love, Peace and Light!

    M&K
    👍💐    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 18

    Day 18/19 - Munster

    2 April 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    "The Tramp's" have not been running at all since we arrived here in Munster on the Natal South Coast. We have certainly been 'Taking the time, to waste a moment'!

    The first few days we had spot-on, glorious weather which, as usual we maxed out! The past day and a half have been a small reprieve and have managed to dodge a few Ray's!

    On Saturday, a surprisingly not so damaging start to the day, (healthwise) we visited the "Beaver Creek" coffee farm for a resuscitating breaky after a hell of a night at the "Pistols Saloon"! Not feeling as mighty as one normally would we spent the day chatting and babysitting the delicious smell emanating from a 'Pootjie Pot' Vince had been nurturing since before heading out for Breakfast, five hours earlier.😋

    Eventually the smell of Oxtail became overbearing and we needed to eradicate the cause! We tucked in, but collectively Vince consumed more of his pot than the rest of us. Now Vince is above average in height and by no means overweight, but no wonder he has been labelled "Garfield" ... man that boy can eat!!!

    Regretably that was the last day and night we will spend with Vince and Jodi on our voyage.

    So many thanks and appreciation to them for their hospitality and care, their friendship and love and for opening "Beachway" to Karen and I.

    You are both awesome people!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 20

    Day 20 - Munster

    4 April 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    In a desperate attempt to shrug off the empty house syndrome, no friends, no kids, no family, no Granny Farm and not even Shelly, and the nostalgia of leaving Munster and "Beachway Cottage" possibly for the very last time ever!

    At daybreak a last and legendary 'Mini Biathlon'....30min run and 30min swim on Glenmore Beach. We are both trying to shrug Munster but it's just not happening.Last night we went to the 'Munster Ski-Boat Club' for our own farewell drinks. The same crinkled faces from 20 years ago, wearing the same old crinkled denims and 'T's from twenty years ago, the same angling pictures on the same wall, and the same rules of the Angling Club still apply today,as they did then!!! 😳

    We know we need to move on, but we just can't do it! Memories long since forgotten, have come flooding right back and the longer we stay, so do those become more vivid. For better or for worse and for richer or poorer, we both love this place, and that it is an indelible and cherished chapter in our lives🥲

    Tomorrow (Tuesday 5th April'22) is the start of a real epic phase of our trip. Here, late afternoon on Monday, we have shopped and replenished, packed and tidied up for an early get away. We have also made a call in terms of all the superfluous equipment and unnecessary regalia, extra tents, poles, one of two First Aid Kits, Jockey- wheel and 'Portaloo' etc.etc.etc. Vince offered to take them back home, which we will collect again, on the back end of our trip.

    Having spent many fantastic holidays on the 'Transkei Wild- Coast'... and I may well have even been conceived there, (my family from childhood), spent 16 consecutive years 'holidaying' at Coffee Bay on the 'Wild Coast' even before the days of the Transkei becoming a 'TBVC State'😖 In those days we are talking about three weeks at a time!!!

    Here in lies a fear for many things but in particular, safety and security, and only because of the unknown. This has been and is, still a seriously rural area of the country. Although the traditional round thatched huts have been replaced by square and rectangular corrugated buildings, there is still (I'm guessing hundreds of thousands of households) without proper water and sanitation, roads and infrastructure systems. Living conditions out here are still poorly rudimentary and basic.

    From tomorrow we shall see for ourselves.

    In addition to this 'dread' all, even half believable 'Weather Apps' are forecasting massive and widespread storms scheduled for the latter part of the weekend. This could well be an uncalled for, gamechanger! ombined with the poor roads could be epic, especially as we avoid main arteries as much as we can!

    Hang in there and watch this space!

    Love, Peace and Light,

    M&K
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  • Tramps like Us
    Hari 21

    Day 21 - WildCoast/ Port St’Johns

    5 April 2022, Afrika Selatan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Up at Sparrows this morning, we set off for Port St.Johns on the Transkei 'Wild Coast'.

    All 200km's odd on the R61, were certainly not as horrendous as I had expected, but also not quite "Route66"!

    Avoiding the N2 at all costs we travelled from Port Edward=> Bizana=> Flagstaff=> Lusikisiki to Port St.Johns.

    No wonder I have never heard of Flagstaff in my life 😳!!! Now, I have been to Burgersfort and Jane Furse, which are the Ass-end of South Africa, and I believe Mogadishu is the ass-end of the world, but this world has two..."Flagstaff" is the other!!! Wow!!! Taxi's, scrapped cars, dogs, cattle, sheep, goats, donkeys, horses and thousands and thousands of people. All sharing the main street at the same time and nowhere to hide! Stuck in a pucker traffic jam for 40min, with all of the above jostling for their place in the 'street's that have no name'😖😖😖

    Contrary to my thoughts yesterday as I said, the roads were not too bad and as for Electricity services, every single structure had an electrical connection in one way or another, legal or not but there was a connection. In addition to this every other home had a Satalite Dish installed too! After four and a half hours we arrived at the Cremorne Estate (Caravan and camping) in Port St.Johns, absolutely the most stunning campsite so far. Expecting anything south of Mogadishu, what a surprise! Overlooking beautiful lawns a very swollen, Mzimvubu River and a monsterous mountain cliff face, gawking down only 200m away.

    Getting back to the approaching weather front. So far blue skies and the odd cloud, all the Apps are showing slightly less precipitation but still, a whole deluge of water later in the week😖

    Right now we are considering a Plan 'B' should conditions deteriorate any further. We have made contact with Roy, the owner of 'White Clay Resort' between Coffee Bay and Hole-in-the-Wall who is flashing red lights, if conditions get any worse. That certainly is our next destination, but we may need to be just a little circumspect and listen to some sage advice.

    Will keep you all posted👍

    Love, Peace and Light
    M&K
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