• W-Trek Day 1; Torres de Paine Trek

    26 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    There is a lot of uphill walking in this part of the W, and we can leave stuff on the minibus (eg, sleeping bags, clothes, etc) as we are with guides today.

    We are dropped off at the visitor centre after the main entrance and, after a while, turn off to head upwards. There are beautiful views of streams, valleys, and mountains. It is steep here, but we are lucky with the weather today; not surprisingly, it gets very windy along Paso de los Vientos! We reach Refugio Chileno, and then it is a difficult ascent to the Mirador base de las Torres; not as bad as that for Monte Fitz Roy, but still hard work. Well worth it, though, as we reach the top for the magnificent view of the granite towers.

    Then it is down - also hard work - and on the minibus again to our overnight at Laguna Amarga Cabins just outside the park. There is food, beer, wine, all included - and well deserved after the 22 km trekked today!
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  • Puerto Natales to start of W-Trek

    26 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We set off for the 130 km journey to the park entrance by minibus just before 7 a.m.; It's windy, and it rains en route.. Rolling hills, reminiscent of Scotland (apparently), then snow-capped mountains. We stop for pictures at a mirador of the Torres before we reach the park entrance and then our drop-off point.Читать далее

  • To Puerto Natales; The W-Trek Gateway

    25 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We eventually set off about 7:30 am for the journey to Puero Natales, back in Chile, to start the W-Trek tomorrow morning. It's a lovely day (in Argentina), and we head south with views of the Andes and Steppe on the west (sometimes Steppe only) and Steppe on the east.

    More hilly as we got south and we passed several small mines - one conveyor belt ran for miles - as we approached the town of Rio Turbio in South West Argentinafor an early lunch stop; the border crossing was shortly after this. The crossing from Argentina into Chile took just over 3 hours it was extremely windy on either side.

    The 12 W-Trekkers are dropped off at the Garden Domes Hostel, Puerto Natales, 130 km from the Torres del Paine National Park, for the W-Trek tomorrow; our hosts are ChileTour Patagonia. What appears to be a lake is actually the end of a fjord connected to the Pacific Ocean.

    This is the plan....

    Day 1. Base of Towers of Paine Trek
    Day 2; Los Cuernos Trek
    Day 3; French Valley Trek
    Day 4; Grey Trail Trek

    I am looking forward to seeing the 2,800m granite peaks soaring above the Patagonian Steppe!

    Then it's out for dinner (included in the price).
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  • Perito Moreno Glacier

    24 ноября 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We set off from El Calafate on the 80 km trip to Perito Moreno Glacier on a small van (10 people) at 9 am. We drive along Patagonian Steppe by Lago Argentino, the largest in the country; the arms of the lake form several peninsulars at the Andes, including that which enables the Perito Moreno Glacier. The weather is different on either side of the Andes.

    The lake is turquoise due to glacial sediment. Trees appear as we round the peninsula, and we stop at a mirador for our first view of the Glacier.

    We get there and walk along the excellent elevated walkways that are in place; this is a magnificent setting, and, once again, words and pictures can not do Perito Moreno Glacier justice. If you stop at one of the viewing points, after a while, you can see and hear ice and rock falling into the water. Amazing!

    We meet for the boat trip at 2 pm; this is also spectacular, getting up fairly close to the front of the Glacier.

    It has been a truly epic day.
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  • En route to, and, El Calafate

    23 ноября 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    We leave the campsite just after 8 am to travel to El Calafate, the southern end gateway to Los Glaciares National Park, and stop for pictures of Monte Fitz Roy. We reach the junction with the road south; it's steppe scenery again.

    We stop for views over the lake and again at Parador La Leona, where Butch Cassidy and The Sundance Kid stayed for 3 nights on their journey south from Bolivia.

    We arrive on El Calafate for midday and have an explore during the afternoon. After a late lunch, Ant's research using Atlas Obscura led us to the Glaciarium and the Glacier Bar. The Glaciarium is a glacier interpretation centre that describes the Patagonia glaciers and their development, etc, in interesting detail. Then we reached a short film narrated br thr Perito Moreno Glacier and its plight; it was rather moving. The Glacier Bar is made from glacial ice and is - 15 C; you get a poncho, and a couple of shots served in ice containers included in the price. 20 minutes max allowed in there; it was quite an experience.
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  • El Chalten; Monte Fitz Roy Trek

    22 ноября 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The Sendero al Fitz Roy goes from El Chalten up to Laguna de los Tres; it is allegedly 10 km each way, with a lot of uphill.... Captions on the photos describe the trail.

    It's steepish to start with for 3 km, and then it's flatter; lots of good views. 4 km later, we pass through the Poincenot camp site, and then the hard part starts; the ascent to the top is really steep on unstable ground. Fantastic views at the top of the ziggurat shape of Monte Fitz Roy help compensate for the most difficult ascent that I have ever done (last 2 km only). We have seen Monte Fitz Roy ahead of us during the day; granite towers and 3,400 metres high - a truly amazing site. We descend and see Laguna Capri on the other side to the Mirador Fiitz Roy seen on the way up.

    Ant and I really deserved a couple of beers after that walk!

    Then it's back to the campsite and out for food (and more beers).
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  • En route to, and, El Chalten

    21 ноября 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We leave the hostel at 8 am for the 500 km journey to El Chalten, on the northern edge of Los Glaciares National Park. The road is fast, and the scenery is the same most of the way - steppes - as we reach the small town of Gobernador Gregores. The view is similar after the town, and the wind is cold and very strong!

    Soon afterwards, we pass by a beautiful turquoise coloured lake (Lago Cardiel) and unusual flat topped hills. It's so cold and windy, not unusual in Patagonia, we have lunch on the bus. Later, we pass through the town of Tres Lagos. Snow capped mountains appear as we turn off for the final 90 km to El Chalten, and we get our first views of the Monte Fitz Roy and the Cerre Poincenot. We stop for pictures and then reach our campsite at 6:30 pm. It's a nice-looking town and is a trekking centre for this area.

    It's a lovely campsite with facilities, and the vegetarian curry planned for tonight is cooked under cover. It was excellent, then into town for beers and to watch the Brazil v Argentina World Cup qualifer (0-1).
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  • Lago Buenos Aires / Cueva de las Manos

    20 ноября 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    At 1 am, the wind was phenomenal, and I was scared the tent would blow away! It held firm, but it was quite an experience. Then it poured down!

    Tents down at 6 am, and by 7:15, we are off. We stop to enjoy the view of Laguna Verde and then drive through the small town of Chile Chico and arrive at the first of the border crossings by 8:30; we are in the Santa Cruz region of Argentina at 11 am.

    There is flat scrubland by Lago Buenos Aires - as it is known this side of the border - and beyond as we travel east on good roadls, eventually turning south; it's extremely windy, but the sun is shining. The truck lunch was by a sheltered culvert underneath the road to get out of the wind. It's back to scrubland after and then steppe passing through part of the Parque Patagonia.

    We divert to drive to the gorge of the Pinturas River, to visit the Cueva de las Manos Cave, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; hunter gatherers lived in the caves here over 9,000 years ago, and the guanaco that lived on the steppes were their main source of food.

    We take an obligatory guided tour along a walkway to see the aleros, rocky overhangs en route to the cave itself; there are pre-Colombian paintings of hands (mainly left), guanacos, other animals and hunting scenes formed by chewing and spraying a mixture of gypsum, minerals, etc. from the mouth using hands, etc, as stencils on these aleros. The colours varied over the millenia; a very interesting place.

    Then it's back to the main road and south to find a bush camp site. It's steppe land all the way, and I see two small groups of guanaco as well as a rhea on the journey.

    In the event, we stayed in a hostel / hotel in Bajo Caracoles; bed, shower, food, beer - not in that order.
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  • Carretera Austral / Lago General Carrera

    19 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    We leave Coyhaique for Carretera Austral south again; ideally, we'll cross the border and bush camp in Argentina; if not, it will be in Chile. The flat area gives way to valleys along the mountains.

    It is beautiful as we drive along the Rio Ibanez and El Progresso areas to the Villa Cerrro Castillo area, where there are many mountain peaks, and then it's back down to the valley bottom and due south.

    The Carretra Austral crosses over the Lago General Carrera at the town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo; it is a stunning area, popular with hikers.

    We then travel along the southern shore of Lago General Carrera to head east towards Chile Chico. At times, it's like driving along the side of a coastal cliff.

    This journey today has been exceptional, showing the beauty of Patagonia; my photos can't do it justice.

    After a couple of reccies, Kevin and Claire opt to bush camp by the road west of Chile Chico. It's raining, but tents are put up, and a meal of frankfurters, instant mash, and a vegetarian concoction are prepared; it was all really good. An early night follows...
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  • Carretera Austral; Coyhaique

    18 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    After two nights in the log cabin on the campsite at Futaleufu, we leave just after 6 am. for the long journey south to El Chalten and Los Glaciares NP, back in Argentina. The roads are slow and bumpy as we journey south through the Chilean part of Patagonia. There are good views, despite the rain. Then the road improves as we join Carretera Austral, a major Chilean road, and we can make some progress.

    Later on, it's high, slow roads along the valley, and rather misty. Then we see snow on the trees around us as we pass through the Quelat National Park. We enjoy a quick truck lunch (bread, cheese, ham, tomato, cucumber) at a stop on the Carretra Austral and continue south. It starts to get flatter around the Andes foothills. It's all about the scenery in Patagonia; rivers, cliffs, mountains, waterfalls - it's very beautiful.

    We arrive in Coyhaique, and the sun is shining as we arrive at our campsite. Then, a quick exploration of the town as we seek out food and beer.
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  • Futaleufu; en route, town and walk

    16 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    We set off from the campsite soon after 8 am. for the 360km journey south through Argentina to Futaleufu; this is in Chile, and the border crossing is close to it.

    There are views of the Andes and flatter scrubland as we drive. After a while, we divert through part of the so-called Welsh area, where there are small flags in some gardens. The border crossing was slowish, but we were back in Chile at about 6 pm.

    It's pouring with rain, and rather than camp, the group can have a sleepover in the quinta, the log cabin on the site, but several people choose a hostel alternative. Then it's into the small town of Futaleufu; we get a lift to Bar Madero - beers and a Mechada Madero sandwich beckon. Back later , and it rains hard all night. Apparently, the weather in this area is unusual for this time of year, as it's going to rain for the next 5 days....

    The river is too high for white water rafting (this is one of the top 3 places in the world for this). Ant and I wander into the small town of Futaleufu to see it and then set off on a local walk. According to Ant's digital watch, we walked 10.5 miles today (most of it in the rain).
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  • Llao Llao Municipal Park

    15 ноября 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We take the bus to the Llao Llao Hotel, a resort, golf, and spa centre where the very helpful receptionist provided us with a hiking map. The hotel is set at the edge of the Llao Llao Municipal Park, a protected natural area that includes a recreational conservation forest as part of the Circuito Chico area.

    We set off and see the various points of interest along the short walking trails; we do most of them in sequence (see picture captions). We walk 10 miles in total, with the ascent to the peak of the Cerrito Llao Llao being particularly arduous; it was well worth it, though.

    Layer on, it's back to Oveja Negra for empanadas and beers wirh Mark and Chris.
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  • Cerro Campanario Aerosilla

    14 ноября 2023 г., Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    A few km from our campsite, the Cerro Campanario Aerosilla (chairlift) takes you to the top of a cerro (hill) that offers amazing views of the area on a good, clear afternoon from 1,052m above sea level - and it was a good, clear afternoon!

    We walked down from the top. After some downtime, a few of us walked up the road (3km) to the Cervezeria Wesley for beers, bus back, and then stopped off at the bar Oveja Negra, just outside the campsite, for more beers. It was a great night out, and the new sleeping bag enabled me to sleep!
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  • Bariloche

    14–15 нояб. 2023, Аргентина ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    San Carlos de Bariloche, to give it its full name, is an attractive town in the Nahuel Huapi National Park in the foothills of the Andes; in the Rio Negro province; it has an alpine feel to it.. We get the 20 bus there, thanks to help from locals as we didn't have a SUBA card, and they paid oir fares using theirs!

    We walk along the promenade facing Puerto San Carlos, past a recreation area to see the large cathedral. Then it's back via the main roads to the Centro Civico.

    We have a money exchange, SUBA bus card, and shopping for warmer sleeping bags, gloves, etc, to do. It all happens, and then we have lunch and take the 20 back again, past the camping site, to Cerro Campanario.
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  • Bariloche; en route and campsite

    13–14 нояб. 2023, Аргентина ⋅ 🌧 6 °C

    We leave the hostel in Pucon at about 8:30am for the border crossing into Argentina; this is over the Andes, and it is rather cold up there. It's a slow process, taking several hours, but we make it entering Argentina via the national park Lanin and away from the mountains. We make rwo stops, one for lunch and the other for a cooking group shop at a supermarket.

    We are driving through an area known as the Argentine Lakes District; there are good views, despite the steamed up bus windows - it is raining outside, but it stops eventually as near Bariloche.

    We arrive at the Camping Petunia campsite, 13 km west of Bariloche, at 8 pm! The food group does a great job, and it's late to bed; it's very cold tonight.
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  • Santuario El Cani

    12 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    A walk in the park; in this case, a private park to see the area where the Mapuche lived; this privately forested area, the Cani Sanctuary, was saved from logging and entrusted to local residents in 2004.

    We set off on the 7:50 am minibus to the area, we being me, Ant, Mark & Chris, and Phil. It's a long walk uphill from the administration entrance, and we stop at the various observation points (see captions). The actual park entrance is at The Sawmill Hut. There was a lot of snow yesterday from here upwards, although it is lovely today, and it is hard work walking up the steep slopes. We see the ancient Pewen trees held sacred by the Mapuche people; these are considered living fossils as they were around with the dinosaurs. We finish at the Laguna Negra and double back; it is considered too dangerous to go on to the Melidekin viewpoint (views of volcanoes), and there are warning signs not to go further. However, back in Pucon, we are lucky with the light and have an amazing view of the Villarrica volcano from the town.

    A great day out; 13 miles, half hard uphill with the return downhill difficult due to the snow and the trees thawing.
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  • En route to, and, Pucon

    11 ноября 2023 г., Чили

    We set off at 9:30 am in the 800km, 2 day journey south to Pucon. It's raining all day in Santiago today, so it's a good time to be leaving. There are 21 on the bus today, excluding Claire (our leader) and Kevin (our driver), and the layout is very different from those I have been on before, as the seats face inward with the bags stored underneath them in deep lockers.

    There are many vineyards as we head south through the heavy rain, eventually stopping at a large campsite near Chillan at about 6 pm; we are the only people here. We put up our tents; these are sturdier and roomier than expected as they were recently acquired from the now defunct tour company Toucan). The cook group for tonight serves up a lovely rice dish with vegetables. There is a disco / nightclub next to the campsite; it's Friday night, and they close at 5 am.....

    The next morning, we continued on to Pucon - through the rain initially, but the weather improved as we got closer to Pucon, arriving at 1:30 pm. It has a very European feel to it, with the scenery, buildings, and trekking shops.

    We have a quick explore of the town, seeing the lake with its black volcanic sand, and enjoy beers and food, as you do!
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  • Santiago 3; Offbeat Santiago Tour

    9 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today, it's the Tours4Tips Offbeat Santiago tour that shows "normal" life for city dwellers. Before we cross the river, canalised in this part of the city, we see old embassies and the Posado del Corregidor (now a museum). After the flea market, we pass through various sections of the Mercado Centrale, before emerging into an area that is now popular with the various migrant communities that have settled here (Koreans, Venezuelans, Peruvians, etc.)

    We then visit the Santiago General Cemetery, which is much like a small town with "blocks of flats" and "mansions," depending on the wealth of the departed. It is actually very interesting and considered a "must see" in Santiago.

    Later this evening, we meet the rest of the Oasis Overland group. 24 travellers on the bus; what could possibly go wrong? Seriously, they look to be a good group, and we look forward to a great trip!
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  • Valparaiso

    8 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We take the metro and bus to Valparaíso, a city on the coast. It is well known for its colourful buildings covered in street art, steep streets, etc, but it is also a major port. We start our exploration from the centre, Palace Sotomayor, and visit Cerro Alegre and Cerro Conception via the funicular and lots of walking. It's a fascinating place to visit.Читать далее

  • Santiago 2; More places of interest

    7 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After the Trips4Tips tour finishes in the Lastarria area, we wander through to the Santa Lucia Hill. There are some interesting buildings here, including an old Fort. When the part of the Mapocho River that flows through Santiago was canalised, some of the detritus was put here to make the hill larger. There are great views of the city and the Anne's from here

    Back in Lastarria, pisco sour awaits at the amazing Chipe Libre. Is it better from Chile or Peru? It's hard to say, as they were both excellent!
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  • Santiago 1; Highlights Tour

    7 ноября 2023 г., Чили ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Anthony and I arrived in Santiago after the long flight from Heathrow. After checking in at the hostel and planning at reception, we take the funicular to the top of Cerro San Cristobal and have an explore before returning for lunch.

    It's a bit of a rush to join the Tours4Tips tour of the Highlights of Santiago, but we make it. We see many interesting buildings before finishing at the Centre Gabriela Mistral cultural centre in the Lastarria area (see picture captions).
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  • Regent's Canal 2; to Mile End

    1 ноября 2023 г., Англия ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Back to St Pancras Lock and we carry on walking east along the Towpath reaching the Islington Canal Tunnel; this takes the Regent's Canal 960 yards (878 m) under Angel, Islington, the longest such tunnel in London.  We access the Eastern portal after a diversion via Islington High Street, and enjoy great views before passing Sturt's Lock and on to Haggerston Bridge - where there are sharks!  The Haggerston Sharks are a controversial art installation that has been changed several times to suit local council demands.

    Then we reach another installation; this time, the conversion of the Bethnal Green gasometer to very nice and expensive residential apartments (much like those at the Kings Cross Gasholder Park).  We soon reach Victoria Park, a large park in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets (formerly the traditional East End); we visit the southern part of the park and see the Dogs of Alcibiades (guardians since 1912) and the Chinese Pagoda (a folly on an island in the Western Boating Lake).  We leave Victoria Park and follow the Towpath to reach the Mile End Lock to end this leg of the walk and have lunch.
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  • Regent's Canal 1; to St Pancras Lock

    13 октября 2023 г., Англия ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Ant and I reach Cumberland Basin, where there is a large Chinese restaurant boat, and reach the Camden Lock area in the heart of Camden (it is actually Hampstead Road Lock). Camden Market is here, and there are many interesting buildings, shops, and stalls.

    It is a pleasant walk as we reach Gasholder Park, a redeveloped area of King's Cross, where the wrought iron columns from the Old Pancras Gasworks were used as frameworks for apartment blocks. A little further on is St Pancras Lock, with a traditional canal lock cottage sitting on a small island; behind this is an ornate Victorian water tower and the Camley Street Nature Park. We leave via Canal Drops Yard,
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  • Little Venice and part of Regent's Canal

    13 октября 2023 г., Англия ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Little Venice, a prime residential area of London, is centred around Browning's Pool, a triangular shaped basin around the junction of the Paddington Arm of the Grand Union Canal, the Regent's Canal, and the entrance to Paddington Basin; there is a small island in the middle.  We walk along the Paddington Arm of the Grand Union Canal, along an edge of Little Venice enjoying the views, and then join the Regent's Canal, but have to walk above it for a short while as the canal passes through the Maida Hill Tunnel; we re-join the canal tow path at Crocker's Folly, formerly an opulent Victorian pub but now a Lebanese restaurant.  

    We rejoin the Regent's Canal; there are many moored narrowboats along this stretch of the canal, until we pass along the edge of Regent's Park and see some very fine buildings on the other bank, in the Park.  We reach Macclesfield Bridge, also known as Blow Up Bridge; this is because in 1874 a barge exploded right underneath it, destroying both itself and the bridge - the bridge was rebuilt like for like, but with the pillars swivelled meaning that rope grooves are visible on both sides.  London Zoo is in Regent's Park, and we see some of the outskirts of the zoo as we carry on towards Camden Town.
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  • Bingley Rise Locks /East Riddlesden Hall

    19 августа 2023 г., Англия ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We stop at Bingley Rise Locks along the Leeds to Liverpool Canal; these comprise two sets of locks to manage the hill here.

    Bingley Five Rise Locks are now Grade I listed and are the steepest staircase locks on the longest canal in the UK. They were opened in 1774 and were a major feat of engineering at the time; the five locks are still managed by six gates. Bingley Rise Three Locks are a little further down the towpath.

    Nearby is East Riddlesden Hall, a historic 17th century Manor House now managed by the National Trust. It was rebuilt by James Murgatroyd, a wealthy clothier from Halifax, in 1642 and overlooks a bend on the River Aire as it wends its way to Keighley

    We explore the house and small gardens to complete two pleasant excursions at the end of our Yorkshire holiday.
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  • Skipton; Town

    18 августа 2023 г., Англия ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Skipton is a market town and the southern gateway to the Yorkshire Dales; it is also known as Skipton-in-Craven, Craven being the old name for this district of Yorkshire.

    The owners of Skipton Castle acquired a market charter in 1204, and the town grew wealthy as a trading centre for wool and sheep. Further growth happened with the building of the Leeds to Liverpool Canal (130 miles long) during the Industrial Revolution in the 18th century.

    We explore the town, seeing the main buildings and sites.
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