• Jan Henle
elok. – lokak. 2022

Exploring the Americas

Esther and Jan's trip through South and Central America Lue lisää
  • Cuenca II

    5. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Since we spent the night after the Cajas with an American and a German-Brazilian couple we had met on the walking tour the day before, the next day started slow and was filled with some admin tasks (laundry, sim card, fixing Esther's camera bag, convincing Esther to get up from bed - the promise of a cheese board did help...).
    So, we only walked around town a bit more, went to a viewpoint, tried to visit a recommended museum, which was closed (even though they had said on the phone that they were open) and had a quiet night in.
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  • Guayaquil

    6. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    The next stop is Guayaquil, from where we will take the flight to Galapagos. Guayaquil is the largest city and economic center of Ecuador.
    The bus ride was a highlight itself, going from Cuenca at 2500m via Cajas national park (4200m) down to the coast.
    Guayaquil is set in a river delta, thereby bridges and river promenades play an important role. Malecón 2000 is the highlight, which is a completely fenced and guarded riverside walk/museum/amusement park filled with cafés, statues and even a ferris wheel.
    At it's southern end sits city hall and "Iguana park", a park literally filled with wild iguanas walking around. At the Malecón's northern end is Las Peñas, a hill with painted houses, artist studios and a lighthouse on top.
    All in all, the city left a very good impression, despite the fact that the weather was very hot and humid.
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  • Galapagos: Puerto Ayora

    7. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Next up: Galapagos. A 1.5h flight from Guayaquil (we only learned in flight that there is an additional time difference, so now 8h behind Germany). They also hadn't mentioned that you needed to pay 20$ transit fee and have your baggage scanned before you can even check in. The line was quite long (three flights simultaneously and only two counters), so although we arrived to the airport 1:45h before the flight, we only made it because I asked them to let us skip the line. There were still 8 people behind us in the line at Avianca who also hadn't known about the extra step and missed their flights...
    After that, things went better: Flight, arrival in Baltra airport (another 100$ entrance ticket), bus to ferry, ferry to Santa Cruz island and then taxi to Puerto Ayora - the main town - and check-in to our hotel.
    As our cruise would only leave at noon the next day, we had booked a dive tour in the afternoon. With our great guide Claudia from Galapagos dive company, we went to two spots in the bay and saw big swarms of fish, sharks, rays and a sea lion playing with us. A great experience.
    At night, dinner was had at Midori, which was all about amazingly fresh tuna. After that, we went to the pier, as the harbor lights attract fish and you can spot baby sharks and turtles from land.
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  • Galapagos Cruise I: Santa Cruz

    8. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Since the cruise would only start at noon, we had a surprisingly delicious breakfast and then walked from town down a cactus-lined path to Tortuga Bay. This was not only a beautiful white sand beach but also our first encounter with local fauna - Iguanas, pelicans, blue footed boobies. After a stop at Nymph Laguna on the way back, we then boarded the cruise ship which would be our home for the next four nights. A comfortable catamaran with eight cabins, a cozy common room and a sun deck (which we could only use on the last day due to weather:/).
    After our first yummy lunch on board, we rode back to Puerto Ayora to visit the Darwin Tortoise Breeding Center to see the namesake tortoises in all forms up close (we had in fact already seen a few from the road driving thru the island the day before). In general, what surprised us most is that wildlife abounds everywhere on the islands, even in the middle of the city. In the way back into town, we saw sea lions, crabs and pelicans just lying on the streets.
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  • Galapagos Cruise II: Floreana

    9. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    While our cabins were quite comfortable, our journey unfortunately wasn't. On our cruise, we traveled between islands overnight. 6 hours of strong waves caused by the Humboldt current had reduced our sleeping time to only a few hours.
    Nonetheless, after a hearty breakfast we set out to explore the next island, Floreana. At Cormorant Point, we explored a lagoon and were lucky enough to find a recently hatched sea turtle on the way towards the water. Afterwards, we snorkeled around Devil's crown and saw sharks, seals, a turtle and swarms of fish.
    After lunch and a siesta back in board, we went kayaking at Baroness Lookout and then on to Post office bay, with an actual letterbox which is in use since 1792 - the idea is you leave a postcard and look for another one from your country in order to personally deliver the postcard to the sender. Surprisingly, barely any cards from Germany...
    Then we snorkeled from the beach (we hope to get some snorkel photos after our return) - the highlights were the sea turtles who sleep on the ground. At some point I was swimming above 10 turtles while three of them came up to swim with me - each at least half as big as myself. Quite magical.
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  • Galapagos Cruise III: Española

    10. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Next up: Española. The only island you can only visit with a tour and not independently. The morning was spent at Gardner Bay with a small boat ride into a cave and snorkeling from the beach (meeting the usual suspects, turtle, shark, rays).
    The afternoon was quite spectacular: A hike at Suarez Point, amongst others famous as the breeding ground for albatrosses. Not only did we see tons of albatrosses in the air, we also saw very young chicks as well as small ones trying to lift off into the air (not always successful) and doing their mating dances.
    As on every island, sea lions with cute cubs, boobies (these times "masked" boobies - by the way, booby means foolish, as they were not afraid of humans when the first settlers came and simply caught them by hand). Also, we saw a humpback whale from the shore.
    Overall, a spectacular day and the highlight of our cruise!
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  • Galapagos Cruise IV: San Cristóbal

    11. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    San Cristóbal was the last island we would see, and luckily with a good night's sleep to start the day.
    Pitt Point is the easternmost point of the Galapagos Islands and amongst others, breeding ground for the third kind of boobie (the red footed this time). We went for a hike along the cliffs and then snorkeled from the beach. During lunch, we drive over to Cerro Brujo, which was in itself great as we finally had proper sunshine and could make use of the sun lounges. A flock of fregate birds was cruising mere meters above our heads.
    Cerro Brujo mainly featured a cool beach that we walked along, after which it was snorkel time again for the last time during the cruise.
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  • Galapagos Cruise V: Return to Quito

    12. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We had spent the last night on boat near San Cristóbal. In the morning, we explored Lobos Islet before breakfast to see some nesting frigate birds, hoping to see some of the famous res pouches.
    After breakfast, we docked in San Cristóbal for 1h free time before going to the airport.
    The cruise verdict: The boat and crew was great, the agenda each day neither too full nor too slow. Unfortunately, Esther was sick most of the time as she didn't react well to the food, and we didn't sleep too much during the nights we travel. Galapagos overall is something not to be missed. If we were to do it again, we might base ourselves on land instead of a cruise and only do day trips (more diving).
    The journey back went smooth, flying to Quito was a stopover in Guayaquil, taxi to hotel and a dinner in a local restaurant followed by some planning, as we are about to leave Ecuador and head over to Guatemala.
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  • Quito to Isinlivi

    13. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Since we only had a half day, we did not explore the inner city of Quito, but instead went up the "TeleferiQo" - a cable car that takes you up from Quito's 2800m to 4000m. Up there, the highlights we several viewpoints and the "swing in the sky".
    Then, we headed south to catch a bus to the village of Sigchos and then to Isinlivi, three hours south of Quito, to hike the Quilotoa trail the next day. Our accomodation was the famed Llullu Llama Lodge, with beautiful cabins set in a beautiful landscape.
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  • Quilotoa Loop I: Isinlivi to Chugchilan

    14. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The next morning, we chatted a while with our fellow hikers, but then start the first day of the hike. Leaving Isinlivi village, we first went downhill to the Taochi river and then went up the canyon wall again for some spectacular views.
    After four hours, we arrived in the next village, Chugchilan, or, more specifically, the Cloud forest hostal. A bliss was a private sauna/turkish bath - followed once again by a communal dinner
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  • Quilotoa Loop II: Chugchilan to Quilotoa

    15. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    The next morning, we started early to walk the 1000m difference in altitude that separated us from the Quilotoa lagoon, the volcanic caldera lake which is the main draw card of the region.
    Once again walking down and then up again a canyon, we were lucky to reach the ridge before the afternoon clouds rolled in. Spectacular views.
    Continuing to the less charming village of Quilotoa, we managed to arrange transport back to Quito, so that upon return we even had time to explore Quito's Mariscal neighborhood before dark and have a fancy Ecuadorian dinner.
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  • Quito

    16. syyskuuta 2022, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    On our last day in Ecuador, we finally explored the historic center of the capital, Quito. Walking from our hostel through the adjoining parks, we did a great Free Walking Tour with Iván, who not only showed us the must-see plazas and churches (too many to list here), but also went to a market to let us try some medicinal herbs and fruits, gave a chocolate and an ice cream tasting and let us enter courtyards and rooftops otherwise not accessable. A very good one day insight into all things Quito and Ecuador.
    Afterwards, we went up the Basilica tower, which offered amazing views and a cocoa juice served on a swing in the 14th floor of the clocktower - overlooking the city and the afternoon clouds rolling in. After dark, we had some drinks in a rooftop bar.
    Overall an amazing city, possibly our favorite in South America, and together with the Quilotoa loop our highlight in Ecuador.
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  • ++ Guatemala++ Antigua

    18. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    After a great last day in Quito, we had an early flight the next day to Guatemala (via Panama). Quite proud we managed only carry-on baggage:)
    Since Guatemala city is considered neither safe nor too pretty, we got a direct shuttle to Antigua, the beautiful former capital of Guatemala.
    A complete change of scenery with jungly hills all around. Unfortunately I got sick upon arrival, so the rest of the first day was spent in the hotel bed (only with a short lunch break). Still not at 100%, we then explored the town the next day. Every street is prettier then the next (colorful houses) and there is a ton of old churches and convents/monasteries, some of them in pretty bad shade as they were not repaired after the 1773 earthquake which convinced people to move the capital to nearby Guatemala city. Still, the city was very vibrant and seemed very much alive. A highlight for Esther was the 2h chocolate class, where we made our own chocolate bars and learned everything about the process on the way
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  • Acatenango

    20. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    One of the most spectacular things to do near Antigua and in all Guatemala for that matter is climbing Acatenango. Itself a volcano (one of many in the area), it is most famous for watching eruptions of nearby Mount Fuego.
    Even though I was still a little sick and weakened from the two previous days, we set out with a group of fifteen for an overnight trek. The hike to "base camp" (huts, not tents, luckily) is only 6km but 1400m in altitude, especially with the beginning being very steep. The hike itself however was beautiful, going through fields, rainforest and then along the mountainside. As it is rainy season, the usual afternoon clouds had rolled in by the time we came to camp, so we couldn't see the eruptions of Fuego, but luckily, it cleared by nightfall, so we managed to see some impressive eruptions in the dark.
    They did return though, so we could not approach the volcano and the lava flows any further at night. Instead, we hiked up to Acatenango's summit to watch the sunrise (another 400m altitude at 4am - yay), also quite a view to behold. After breakfast in camp, we hiked back down, had lunch with some of the group and then set out for our next target - Atitlán.
    What made the trip special on top was the group and the guides, as everyone contributed to a good mood despite the weather.
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  • Atitlán I: Santa Cruz & San Juan

    21. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Straight from Acatenango, we had driven 2.5h the day before and arrived at Guatemala's second tourist highlight: Lake Atitlán, a huge volcanic lake, ringed by mountains and picturesque villages. We had chosen to base ourselves neither in the main town, nor in the most touristy/party villages but rather in pretty Santa Cruz, or a small resort with its own little pier nearby to be more precise. 200 steps up the pier in a private cabin to be even more precise.
    We started the next day with a hike along the shore to the main village pier and then up, as the village itself is on the hillside - with beautiful views of the lake. Our initial plan was to relax and go stand-up paddling, but as waves were high and clouds deep, we switched plans and took a boat to nearby San Juan - another beautiful village known for souvenir shopping. For all this, we used public boats, as this is the only mode of transport to reach most villages.
    In the afternoon, back at the resort, we used the onsite jacuzzi and sauna to relax before dinner.
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  • Atitlán II: Chichicastenango

    22. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Chichicastenango is a mid size city, whose market has attracted merchants since before Spanish times. It is held Sundays and Thursdays. We took a 1.5h shuttle to explore the city and market. While you see some tourists, it is mostly still used by locals, as witnessed by the foodstuffs and utensils on sale. We walked around a bit and tried different food (I don't think we'll become huge fans of Guatemalan cuisine anymore). We also checked out the colorful cemetery. While not as clean and tidy as you are used to in Europe, the colorfulness and less somber air was interesting to see.Lue lisää

  • Atitlán III

    23. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    The day started great with stand-up paddling on the lake near our accomodation.
    Our next highlight should have been paragliding over the lake. The weather wouldn't allow it though. We drove up the nearby hill, and the first couple managed to take off, but then the clouds rolled in. So we had to drive down again, and wait for the rain to stop until we could finally take a boat home. Unfortunately not a great end to our time in Atitlán, which we otherwise enjoyed a lot. Well, not everything can always go according to plan.Lue lisää

  • Atitlan to Semuc Champey

    24. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Today was a long drive. We set out at Atitlán at 7:00 for a boat to the main town again and then boarded a Tourist shuttle that would drive us into the heart of Guatemala: Semuc Champey.
    8h driving. Not much to say apart from: Could have been worse...Lue lisää

  • Semuc Champey

    25. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    After yesterday's long drive, today we explored Semuc Champey. It is a series of pools along a river in the middle of the rainforest.
    Most people not only go to the pools, but do a full day tour, as did we.
    First we went into a water filled cave, which we explored only armed with candles for light. After a swing into the river, we tubed down the river on truck tire tubes.
    After lunch, we then hiked up to the viewpoint and then jumped into the pools to enjoy the rest of the afternoon.
    A long yet fun day, which almost made up for the long drive necessary to get here.
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  • Semuc Champey to Flores

    26. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Another 8h on the road. Further up north to island town of Flores, which is the gateway to the famed Maya ruins of Tikal. The road passes through rainforest and fields and we arrived in our hotel just in time for the beautiful sunset.Lue lisää

  • Tikal

    27. syyskuuta 2022, Guatemala ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Tikal. Once one of the most important Maya cities, built between 700BC and 900AD. It is still unclear why exactly it was abandoned well before the Spanish arrived. Climate change, deforestation or possibly Mercury poisoning from the paints they used. It is a vast complex at 16km2 and unlike famous Chichen Itza or Palenque located in the middle of the jungle, which adds nature and wildlife to the experience of exploration.
    We went with the first shuttle at 4:30 to arrive when the gate opens at 6. Since the group we went with was large, we set off on our own, which was a blessing as we had most places to ourselves or only shared them with 1-2 people. The temples are impressive, with many still not or not fully excavated. We managed to see most main temples, a number if different animals and even the weather played along with neither too much heat nor too much rain. Having said this, the long sleeved clothing I wore in order to prevent mosquito bites and the humidity led to me sweating more than anywhere outside of a sauna ever before, as can be evidenced by the pictures (yes, they were all taken before the rain started^^) After 6h, our shuttle went back, and we were quite happy to escape the midday heat.
    Back in town, a jump into the lake at sunset was all I managed.
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  • ++ Belize ++ Flores to Caye Caulker

    28. syyskuuta 2022, Belize ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Another early rise in order to catch the bus from Flores to cross the border and then go straight to the beautiful Carribean island of Caye Caulker.
    The border was quite straightforward (we almost forgot to get the Guatemalan exit stamp) and we arrived early in the biggest city, Belize City (if you can count 65000 inhabitants a city) in order to catch an early boat to Caye Caulker.
    We had truly arrived in the Carribean, with a relaxed vibe and beach galore. Unfortunately, the change in weather didn't sit well with us, so we mostly wasted the rest of the day away in our hammocks.
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  • Caye Caulker I: Esmeralda Dive

    29. syyskuuta 2022, Belize ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today was our first dive on Caye Caulker at the Esmeralda dive site, which is actually near San Pedro (Caye Caulker's rival sister island - walking around this rather busy island a bit between both dives, we were happy we had chosen Caulker as a base). The Belize Barrier Reef is actually the largest in the northern hemisphere, so we saw a lot of colorful reefs, sharks and many other fish.
    In the mood, the dive was then followed by fresh lobster on the beach.
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  • Caye Caulker III: Blue Hole

    2. lokakuuta 2022, Caribbean Sea ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    After a day in the hammock (something didn't agree with my stomach, so yesterday we did nothing apart from a yoga session in the morning), today was gonna be the great day, i.e. the reason why Esther wanted to come to Belize: Dive the blue hole.
    The blue hole is a perfectly circular 300m wide, 130m deep underwater hole inside one of the atolls off the Belize coast - declared one of the world's best dive sites in the 1970s. Considering its fame, it was hard to find a tour operator to take us there, as it's apparently off-season right now. We set out at 6am for the two hour boat ride (it's 80km off shore) and jumped in. You go to the hole's sides, where you find impressive stalactites at a depth of 40m. Quite an alien landscape, fascinating to see, unfortunately too dark to take good pictures.
    However, we had two more reef dives in the atoll to follow. Once again a lot of corals and fish. Between dives, we had lunch on one of the islands - half moon caye, where we saw frigate birds and red footed boobies (Galapagos déjà-vu). All in all, a long, expensive but definitely worthy trip.
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  • Lamanai

    2. lokakuuta 2022, Belize ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    We started early to catch the 6:30am boat back to the mainland. There, we got picked up by our guide to drive 1h up to the town of Orange Walk (yes, Belize towns have funny names, such as Indian Church, fire burn, shipyard, Honey camp). There, we got on a speed boat that would take us up the New River for 1.5h to the Mayan ruins of Lamanai, one of the prime archaeological sites in Belize.
    The ruins did not even come close to Tikal a few days before, but had some interesting face carvings. The highlight was the trip down the river with mangroves on both sides all along the ways, even spotted a baby crocodile, some birds, bats and fish.
    Back in Orange Walk, we caught a public bus to the Mexican border. From the nearest town, we then took a taxi to the actual border. The crossing was a little strange, as we had to walk through 1km of no man's land - apparently no one crosses late in the day without his own car. Also no ATM or exchange at the border. Luckily our hotel was in walking distance to the border, so we got us our first Mexican dinner and finally got to the hotel - which even had a pool. Bliss after a sweaty day.
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