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  • AliceAlain
  • AliceAlain

Peru

A 103-day adventure by AliceAlain Read more
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  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Inca terraces. Look very carefully to spot the zigzag stone steps up the terrace walls
    The terraces are extremely steep and beautifully preservedStairway between levels, very similar to the stone steps that can be found in EuropeThe street through an old villageAll that's missing the door and the roofTop view of one of the little settlements of Inca times. Modern village in the backgroundA central ceremonial areaThe top of the door has lasted 500 years, don't worry!Entry door to the large solar dialSolar dial from aboveHigh quality Inca buildings near the solar dialMost buildings have many of these trapezoidal niches used for sacred iconsLooking up the Sacred valleyThe Alpacas take care of the grassMany areas are perched on the steep mountainOur path looking very exposed with the modern town of Pisaq below1Modern Pisaq town

    Pisaq Inca terraces

    October 27, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Above Pisaq are the Inca Pisaq ruins. This extensive site scales 400m of steep mountain. It is most famous for the very steep and well engineered Inca terracing, but it also includes ceremonial, military and urban areas. We spend a happy day climbing up through this quiet site, exploring the many parts and enjoying the views. The terraces were constructed to allow farming on the slopes and included drainage and irrigation in addition to the retaining walls. Some of the higher steeper terracing was for structural stability.

    The quality of the stone workmanship varies from the rustic stone work for the terraced walls to the perfectly crafted and polished stones of the ceremonial areas. The trapezoidal shapes seen in the doors and niches and the precise dry stone walling have the advantage of providing extra resistance to earthquakes which are a feature of the Andes.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The penitential meditation centre
    Vianne our guideLooking down the terraces across to the calendar mountainProtusions either used as sundials or for lifting the stonesBehind us the southern cross (left) and destroyed pumas (right)1Food storage area - up high so as to benefit from drying valley windsThis valley leads into the Amazonian jungleView of Ollantaytambo from the sunny sideThe main area of terracingThis rock is a replica of the calendar mountainWater feature with southern cross decorationThis mountain face resembles a condor, mythic animal for people of the AndesView of the main temple from the stores, on the shady side of the mountainGrain storage areas from close upAt the stores: shese stone pegs served to rig the main roof beams with ropesInside the stores, with a dedicated storage level for drainageThe beams holding the top of windows were planted in mortar -- the holes have survived to this day!

    Ollantaytambo

    October 29, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After our nice stay in Pisaq, we head for Ollantaytambo, an important Inca site on the way to Machu Pichu. Not all goes well: Alice's Rohloff cable breaks once again... and meanwhile we have lost the necessary tool. Luckily this time, the failure happens in front of half a dozen ferrateria (hardware) shops, so we can buy a new tool set, and borrow a wire cutter. We manage the repair quickly!

    Arriving late afternoon in Ollantaytambo, the road turns from tarmac to big cobbles. Presumably this is good for touristic interest, but it is horrible for cyclists!

    We have one full day for exploration. As we get to the site, a Quechua lady from the next village, Vianne, proposes to act as a guide for the terraces, the temple on top, the condor and the water fountains.

    Vianne explains wonderfully, with a detailed book when needed. The site is at the junction of the sacred valley and another valley that eventually leads to the jungle. The site is set up across two sides of this valley, with terraces and ceremonial buildings on the side having good exposure to the sun. Stores are perched on the other side, which is much less sunny and is well ventilated.

    On the sunny valley side, the temple from late 15th century was disfigured by Spaniards, around 1560 (they demolished in particular four sculpted pumas). The traditional symbols of Condor (air, spirit) Puma (earth, human power) and Snake(water, death), which were already used in the second century, are still present in Inca times.

    From the temple, we climb to the top of the hill, with a construction for the meditative penitence of badly behaving folks: hands tied, backs to the sun and facing the shady part of the world. Vianne demonstrates and invites us do it too! So now we must be forgiven.

    The next morning, we visit the other side of the valley including the guard post and remarkable food stores. This mountain, when viewed from the main site, acted as a calendar to tell the time of year. The buildings are very well preserved (although the steep thatched roofs have gone) and show an architectural perfection that is mind boggling.

    We are just in time to catch the train to Machu Picchu!    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Classic Machu Picchu
    A wet and misty start to the visitThe residential area with temple of the sunMachu Picchu is steeper than we expectedLargely restored storage areasThe buildings are 500 years old, the tree 70, the fog is fresh from the morningWet but smilingThe pyramidal area back left is the observatoryWaynu Pichu mountain ... its Steep and we are headed up itThis mountain and its terraces are vertigo inducingLook at the wonderful view over Machu PicchuAt last a window in the cloudMystical mountains surround the siteMystical mountainsThe agricultural areaBaby Llama and reconstructed store houses1

    Machu Picchu

    October 31, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Just getting to Machu Picchu is quite a feat. It is too complicated for us to undertake the 4 day inca trail, and its pretty well impossible to arrive by bike or road. That leaves the train. Its about a 50 km ride and takes more than 90 mins to slowly descend a narrow, extraordinarily deep, winding and scenic valley beside a fast happy river into the cloud forest. It feels a bit strange as although Machu Picchu is on a mountain, it is on route to the amazonian jungle and is considerably lower (2430m) than the sacred valley area (3000m) we have been exploring.

    We descend from the train into a small touristy town that sits just below the Machu Picchu site. We are up before 5am the next morning to catch a 6 am bus for our 7 am entry. It is absolutely pouring it down. Once at the top we manage to find ourselves a guide. We will tour the main site for a couple of hours with him, then climb the Waynu Picchu mountain behind the far end of the site, and finally return through the ruins to the exit. The tour with the guide is damp and whilst we can see the ruins, everywhere else is in the cloud.

    Machu Picchu was built in the 15th Century. It was never discovered by the Spaniards and was not fully completed. It may even have been abandoned before the Spanish invasion. The site includes agricultural, urban and ceremonial areas and was almost certainly selected because of its amazing position in the mountains. Mountains were considered to be deities, making the location very sacred. Our guide explains how the Inca was the Emperor, but the rest of the population were Quechua and not “Incas”. The site is much steeper than we had appreciated and covered with Inca terracing. We visit each of the main areas including temples, the Inca house (where the visiting Inca lived) and residential areas. There are temples in close proximity for each of the four sacred elements: the sun, the moon, water and the winds.

    The 200m mountain climb is crazily steep, at the top it is terraced and more like a ladder than steps. From the top we get occasional magical windows of view through the cloud and bide our time in the hope it will clear. In fact, it marvellously clears as we are descending. By the time we are back on the main site we can really appreciate just what a wonderful setting it is. The river, steeply below, hairpins around. There are almost vertically steep mountains in all directions, with huge slab cliffs. And misty green jungly vegetation. If it weren’t for all the tourists, it would be a splendid place to live.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Temple of the sun with windows oriented to the two soltices
    The dominating position of the Temple of the SunInside the Temple, built around this large original stoneThese cups are used as mirrors when filled with water for solar astronomyTwo huge existing rocks inspired the Incas as wings of the Condor.This flat rock was carved as a Condor with (front to back) collar, head with beak, bodyEntry to the residence of the Inca familyWater features that allow for settling out of sediment before the ceremonial fountainsCeremonial fountainsThis hole was situated under a fountain. What a carving job!Machu Picchu is in the rain forest, drainage is essential!The assembly of the roof with stones and ropes has been reconstituted here.On older buildings and like in Ollantaytambo, the stone pegging has remainedThe four consecutive walls feature several such perfectly aligned sets of windowsA stairway entirely carved in a single stoneAnother beautiful carving of the original rock beneath the temple of the sunOne can see under this house the construction of a supporting terrace and the resulting tunnelThis enormous rock serves as foundation for the building aboveExtraordinary terracing work on the steep side of the siteIt takes a bit of breathing to climb these steps!The staircase allowing access to the agricultural terracesToday's flowers with 600 years old buildingsBeautiful flower in the cloud forest

    The Temple of the Sun

    October 31, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our visit to Machu Picchu reveals many more details about its buildings and construction methods. A striking example is the Temple of the Sun, (which is famous in the Blondel family for its key role in the eponymous Tintin album). In Machu Picchu, this temple is a relatively small construction, partly cylindrical, with very high quality wall construction. It uses the mountain bedrock as its foundation. Two windows are carefully placed to align with the summer sunrise and winter sunset. We probably did not pay enough attention, visiting the Temple of the Sun on a rainy day!

    We are impressed in general by the widespread use made by the Incas/Quechuas of the mountain bedrock, both as material for impressive in-situ carvings, and as the backbone of constructions. The approach produces strong foundations and terraces - a formidable task in this challenging environment. We saw a similar terrace construction when visiting roman temples such as Bergama in Turkey.

    The Temple of the Condor also uses the bedrock, this time to form the wings of a Condor- this great bird that is so symbolic here in Peru. The wingspan of a real condor can reach an impressive 4.5m. In front, and well aligned, is a large and flat granite rock carved to represent the rest of the Condor with collar, beak, body.

    One last, serendipitous, detail: our guide is dynamic, knowledgeable and joyful... and his first name is Darwin! This takes us back to our visit in 2022 to Magellan's strait and The Beagle, ship in which Darwin travelled. The discovery and exploration of South America certainly opened the eyes of Europeans to the concept of evolution. It explains how similar but different results have developed from separation in space and time on our planet -- and applies not only to plants and animals (llamas and camels for exemple) but also human arts, as with Inca vs. Roman or middle age architecture.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Back in the lakes at 3700m (Laguna Asnacocha)
    After Machu Picchu we, the bikes, and even the dogs, are in a state of semi-consciousness1Peruvian restaurants don't do dessert... except in Cusco. Yummm...Laguna de Huacarpay (not one of the four lakes), clearly formed by a lava flowMassive road gate built by the Wari people around 600 CE, later upgraded by Incas.Rio VilcanotaAt Americo's Lodge, near the riverA nice estancia as we climb to the lakesLaguna Pomacanchi 3665mAqupyia qucha 3707mAnother part of Laguna Asnacocha 3756mLaguna Pampamarca 3780mA quaint little church in great solitudePeruvian heath advice: Alain needs to eat his Broccoli

    The four lakes

    November 3, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    After our intense visit to Machu Picchu and our 200m climb+ 600m descent, we are mind-blown and exhausted. We catch the train back out, with drinks offered and handicraft souvenirs presented. There follows a night in Ollantaytambo and a day’s cycle ride back into Cusco.

    Boosted by a tasty Peruvian-Italian dinner, in Cusco, we begin the post Machu Picchu era of our lives. We plan with optimism a 90km stage to Cusipata in the direction of Lake Titicaca. This journey starts with 15km of comfortable bicycle lane out of Cusco -- are any of the great western capitals offering this? After that, we are back in the highway world of cars and trucks. So by the time we reach the end of the day, the decision to head off into the mountains is firmly made.

    Our lodge on the riverbank in Cusipata is very fine and our host Americo is great company. The next day, we avoid the main traffic by setting off early and, after a few km, we are climbing steeply to reach the 3600m level of a series of four quiet lakes. Now we can take our time and enjoy the views and colors!    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Marching band beneath our window
    Village women are marching tooA group of ladies with traditional costumes but no coloursGathering outside the church for the bonfireFull moon and bonfire beside the churchNice morning on the road to CheccaThey are *not* going to Checca but seem happy anywayLook carefully and spot snowy Ausangate 6384mThe red roof is probably the sports areaOh Look. Some cyclists passing by!This part of Peru is not in the wet season, as this dry river bed showsHeading into CheccaView from our hotel window

    Sun Fire Moon

    November 4, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Yanaoca is a small village that is busy celebrating the feast of St Martin. Peruvians are well into celebrations, marching bands, and smart uniforms. We have a bird's eye view from our hotel window whilst we take a rest day. The marching includes schools, local women, and other organisations.

     In the evening we head across the village square to investigate the bonfire burning outside the church and join the locals sitting on the surrounding benches under the full moon. The band strikes up and there is informal dancing into which we are invited and happily join in. A little later and there are fireworks - not static, but on long poles that are being carried and waved around. We are just pondering the safety of this when a firework breaks loose and hits Alain’s shoulder. He has singed eyebrows and hair, minor burns to the eyelids, cheek and hand, glasses that are pockmarked on the inside from the sparks and a waterproof which will no longer be waterproof. Fortunately his eye somehow escapes. It seems rather bad luck as we'd just been greeted and invited by the town mayor to join the fun, and we were enjoying it! We head back to our safer hotel.

    The next morning it's a bright sunny day. We have had relatively few of these on our trip. The road is small and quiet and heads up and down and up and down over remote and pretty pastures. We say hi to the Alpacas - who wouldn’t? Then roll into a small village (Checca) where we find an exceptionally clean hospedaje and a room with a great view of the square and mountains - setting us back all of 10 Euros.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    1Sunrise over the lake
    Quiet rural land above 4000mJust over the pass the first view of our lakeWild birds at sunrisePacking upLast view as we head off early for a long climb

    Abra Mataracocha

    November 7, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    From Espinar, we have a high mountain leg to achieve on route to Lake Titicaca. It will take us several days. Leg one is to the pass Abra Mataracocha 4290m and its nearby lake where we hope to camp.

    Leaving Espinar we are on a fast, uninspiring and relatively flat road for several kilometers. Luckily at the next junction we leave behind most of the traffic and are back to a small quiet road traversing and climbing land above 4000m. It's steady work and although we arrive in good time at the pass (the boundary between the Cusco and Puno regions) we are tired and happy to stop by the beautiful lake - alongside the Alpacas and ducks. Just in time - a brief storm passes over once we are pitched. It's a quiet night and we wake to a beautiful sunrise.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Amazing volcanic rock
    Last night's lake, now in full sunDescent from the lakeWe turn into the tributary valley.Lava formationsWonderful field of queens of the AndesA bunch of llamas on the roadThe llamas move away. The grey-pink color on the high peaks is puzzlingPassing by a big ball of lavaBut this big ball of lava is also pink inside24853m altitude. The top for today, breathe now!The pass: hail, wind, and a strange signpost.Hug at the topDone!Grey-pink againEntering a beautiful gorge in the afternoon sunVertical crystals of lavaAn ancient settlement across our campsite

    Nameless beauties

    November 8, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Always above 4000m, we cycle through an area so remote, that a very high pass or a stunning gorge bare no name...

    After leaving our beautiful night spot near a lake at 4230m, we descend gently in sunshine, until we reach a great flat valley. Apart from a few isolated farms, it is very empty. The first junction connects to a single track, tarmacked road in a similarly wide flat valley that we are heading up and which is surrounded by volcanic rock formations. The valley has several deserted settlements; posters advertise plots of land for sale to rebuild a town.

    On our right appears a steep hill, then several, covered with Puya raimondii, "the queen of the Andes". We are relieved that they exist elsewhere than in the Huascaran natural park, and notice that there seems to be a correlation with the absence of sheep and cows.

    As we go on the landscape becomes wilder, the climb steeper and the sky darker. We turn sharply out of the valley and now it is very steep and it hails. The last 400m of climbing are really tough, the first 200m because we are at the limit of our lowest gear, the second because it has become so windy. The pass is also the limit between districts and is covered in broken glass. There is no pass marker, just a cow skull on a wooden stick. What is happening here?

    The descent is superb, we even see a fox watching us on the road. After about 15km of descent, the valley narrows, with stunning volcanic cliffs, columns, etc. We spot an abandoned village on the other side of the river. We plant the tent, get the usual evening rain and wake up to new morning light.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Our favourite snack. Scrummy Mango. Alice forbids consumption in the tent!
    Down the gorgeWe are always happy to stop for LlamasA sun haloIn front the river bed, far behind there is a dusting of snow on the mountain topsFlat does not make for great photosA long flat wide valleyImpressive church as we pass through Lampa townThe town square with stalls and rickety balconies

    Juliaca

    November 9, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Today is a downhill day! A good thing as we have 70km to cover and we are tired from the previous few days. The wonderful gorge scenery with occasional Puya Raymondii continues for a while until the vallley widens into a great flat plain leading towards lake Titicaca. After so many months of mountains and canyons, flat seems really quite strange. And Nice!! The kilometers pass surprisingly quickly. There are still many herds of Alpacca and sheep. Endearingly, one by one the Alpaccas raise their heads from the grass to give give us a quizzical stare as we pass.

    Soon we are approaching the suburbs of the city of Juliaca. Lots of rubbish along the road, unmaintained or half finished buildings everywhere... it is painful to see. Alice finds it difficult not to think of it as a bit of a dump. Still, we easily find an acceptable hotel, stock up our larder, and dry out our camping kit.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Admiring Lake Titicaca
    First sighting of Lake Titicaca!The fertile Lake shores are largely occupied by agriculture.In this season there is always a storm somewhere around the lake.The area ia covered with groups of tiny concrete buildings - housing project? we don't know whyThe blue and brick buildings are the new toilet blocks for each housePompoms on hats signify marital statusLady with two-PomPom hat!Villages often have an entry arch. Of course this one has pompomsCasa de FelixView from our room to the east. On a good day, view on 6400+ Bolivian peaksSunset from our window

    Lake Titicaca

    November 10, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Leaving Juliaca is a complicated business, the recommended street is fully occupied with a market and the pace is very slow. Finally we manage to turn off towards the Capachica peninsula, thus avoiding the other big town of Puno. Sadly, this begins with 20km strewn with thrash. Things get better as we arrive in the peninsula and after a little hill we get our first sighting of LAKE TITICACA!!!

    The lake does not look at all like in school text books:- superflat and bordered by reeds. In reality we see mountains, cliffs, sandy beaches, waves, pastures with sheep, cows, donkeys, pigs... and houses.

    A few statistics from wikipedia: Titicaca is very large, 8,372 km2, only the 18th in the world, but much larger than 580 km2 of lake Geneva (Lac Léman). Significantly it is much higher (altitude 3810m vs. 373m).

    We remark housing projects, tiny houses seemingly for temporary workers or poor families, mainly out of view of the lake. Also, what seems to be an effort to provide every plot and even some fields with toilets. This all shows the awareness of authorities to the great touristic and environmental interest of the lake; though perhaps without understanding the impact of widespread scruffy development.

    Among other interests is a local tradition (mainly in the Tranquile Island) of wearing hats or shawls with pompoms, indicating the marital status. Two large pompoms sewn onto them mean that a woman is single, while one small pompom means she’s already married. Single men wear red and white caps with a pompom at the top. If a man is looking for a girlfriend, the pompom is moved to the side of his head. When he gets married, he then switches to an all red cap and no pompom. Importantly, the men do the knitting: no knitting, no girlfriend and no marriage!

    After some searching, at the end of a dirt track along the shore, we find our hotel "la casa de Felix". It is a vermillon red building facing the lake, with beautiful view from the room. Felix, a robust Quechua entrepreneur, is welcoming, well organised, and ready to solve any problem for us. We decide to stay for a couple nights!    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The reed raft
    A model of the island constructionThis room is the home for a family with 4 childrenAnd this is number 3The kitchenHarvesting reedsHow do we do this?1Like a proThe island, one of over 90The verdict on reed pith...Landing back on the islandWaving good byeAlain has pinched Felix's hat...

    Pacha Mama floating island

    November 11, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We have arranged with Felix, our host, to visit one of Lake Titicaca’s famed floating reed islands. We leave at 7.30am and an hour later arrive at a tiny floating island. It is only 10 metres across and covered in dried totora reeds. It is soft, damp and springy and moves beneath our feet - giving the impression of being a house boat as much as an island. We are seriously taken aback by how small it is.

    Eleven people live on the island which is called Pacha Mama or Mother Earth. There are 4 small huts built of reeds around the edge. We are led to a reed bench (cylinder) where one of the locals, Leo, explains to us (in Spanish) about the island and its construction and inhabitants.

    The island is one of about 90 and is made by cutting and then tying together lumps of reed peat. Then placing layers of dried reeds on the top (these layers need to be topped up regularly as the island gently rots and sinks). Islands like this have existed since the 10th Century. However each island has a lifespan of around 35 years and this one is just 3 years old.

    Food is obtained from fishing, and hunting water fowl - and also by visiting the mainland. There is a floating island school for the kids. The toilet these days includes a septic tank. We are invited to visit one of the huts. It is rectangular and the size of a modest garden shed. 2 adults and 4 kids sleep here. The reed roof is lined with plastic which has holes and does not look like it keeps out the rain. But there is a solar panel and electric light. Cooking is outside.

    The families largely live off the lake, but get their cash by allowing tourists like us to visit and by selling woven goods and boat rides. It feels a somewhat strange arrangement and rather touristy for our tastes - but equally it is really an interesting visit and they appear to need the income.

    We take a ride through the reeds and around the island in a wide, very stable raft/punt, made (of course) out of reeds. As well as building material for the island, houses and boats, the pith of the reed can be eaten by peeling back the outer layer. We try it - it is bland and innocuous.

    It does not take so long to visit a 10m diameter island. Soon Felix returns to take us back to base and we chat as best we can about life on the peninsula.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Taking the bikes across to the next peninsula
    Last goodbye to Felix!A tricky passage on the east of the peninsulaUnmechanised farmingSuperb corniche route along the lakeFrom the headlandAnimals are often tethered. This sheep was leaning on its lead with leg outstretched until I stoppedA break on the village Plaza de ArmasA coast with reeds this timeIt's easy to see why reeds are widely usedWe are on quiet dirt roads in the morningIn this area there are graves in the fields, often painted blueViews over fields to snow capped mountains on the far side of lake TiticacaOr these mountains, further eastStopping near an ancient guard postLlamas and Alpacas occasionally come to visit the coastEcclesia di Santiago Apostol in Pomata, from 1567, is superb,... but thoroughly shutSo we admire the outside sculptures, somewhat marked by local (Quechua) art.We are getting closer to the Bolivian border and already see the Isola del SolAnd always these extraordinary sunsets

    From Felix's to Bolivia

    November 12, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We could have stayed longer at Felix’s place and learned a lot, but Titicaca, Bolivia and home are waiting for us. For the sake of timing and adventure, we have arranged with Felix that he will take us on his little boat with our bikes and baggage, and cut across to the next peninsula just across from his hotel on the southern lake shore. By light breeze and gentle sun we cross in half an hour and pedal ourselves up to the coastal road.

    It is a wonderful three-day trip, with breathtaking lake views, through farming and fishing land. (Various signs suggest that the tourist industry may be on its way). The ever-changing sky and geology create a whole palette of colors. On the last day we encounter a beautiful colonial piece of art, the Santiago Apostol church of Pomata, which is almost as old as some of the Inca monuments we have seen.

    Finally we stop at the last possible ATM in Yunguyo to take all Peruvian soles we can. It requires a delicate path in both directions through a local town party (Peruvians party a lot, don't you agree?). Just before the border we arrive at the Hotel Summita and find a good exchange rate into Bolivianos. A new country beckons.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Sunset over lake Titicaca
    Saying goodbye to PeruThe touristy town of CopacabanaAlain takes advantage of the exchange rate to get a hair cut.Our sunset viewThe city at night

    Bolivia

    November 15, 2025 in Peru ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After 88 days of Peru, our visa is almost expired. Time to cross the border into Bolivia.

    We cross the very quiet (pedestrian only?) border quickly and easily and are soon on our way to Copacabaña . Its a very touristy but pretty lakeside town - a little bit of a shock after being out in the ´wilds’. Appart from the new currency and prices its hard to see much of a difference from Peru. We take advantage of the tourism and treat ourselves to a coffee/ tea and decent cake and Alain has a much needed ´prune´. In the evening we head up the hill behind town to watch the sunset.Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Lupine in blue
    On the ferry from Copacabaña to the Island of the SunHeading around the point of the islandThere have been tensions between the north and the south of the IslandYes, we are in Bolivia, at 3810m, at the beach!Pigs on the beach. What a life!Chickens too!Cactuses and cristal-clear waterThe rocky northern end of the islandBeware my head! (Entering the Chincana Labyrinth)ChicanaWhat a sacrifice!The rocky crest pathThe path is reminiscent of Hadrians wallViews of paradise as we sweat across the islandThe only transport on the island is by donkeyWe will rest here for the nightFrom our habitación, a great view of the Andes, Illiampu (left, 6368m) and Ancohuma (highest, 6427m)And another 5-star sunset at the little pizzeria!Before going to sleep, repeat the 14 Inca emperorsNext morning at the local temple of the sun

    Isla del Sol

    November 16, 2025 in Bolivia ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    From Copacabaña, we take a gentle ferry to visit the Island of the Sun.
    We sit on the boat roof, have a grand view and chat with a couple of tourists from Neuchâtel. ("Young tourists" would be appropriate, but then, everyone is young).

    We land in Challapampa (see map), walk to the north point to an Inca temple, enjoy the views with great jubilation, and walk 9km under a diamond sun along the crest of the Island.

    We painfully tumble down to the arranged hostal, where we discover a great view on the Andes -- that very view of the 6-thousanders that we have been scrutinising unsuccessfully for the last four days. Success can feel like a miracle, sometimes.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The old wooden planks of the barge that serves as ferry
    Looking back from the passNow, the wind is picking up on the south lakeThe channel connecting the 2 parts of lake TiticacaThe ferry manBikes on board1The wind is picking upThis lorry was rocking significantlyFerry rafts moored up waiting for the wind to dropThe queue for the crossingThe morning afterThe cordillera are a little shy todayThe end of lake Titicaca with snowy mountains behindModern scruffy constructions - these are better than averageThe mountains are visible from our room in Achacachi

    The Lake Titicaca crossing

    November 17, 2025 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After the boat ride back from Isla del Sol, we are headed for the Bolivian Cordillera Real and La Paz. We have another 100km or so to complete alongside lake Titicaca. A sunny afternoon climb brings us to a small pass where there are views to both the north and south parts of lake: lake Titicaca is almost two lakes with a small channel connecting the two parts. Its a lovely ride. We descend to the “ferry” to cross the connecting channel. It turns out there is no single ferry but instead a flotilla of small rickety wooden rafts that take a couple of vehicles each at a time. There is plenty of room for the bikes - just we need to take care that the wheels do not go in between the extremely uneven planks or on one of the many rusty nails. The raft has a small outboard motor and one ferryman who races up and down the boat between the engine and the ropes. Its a bit of a free for all leaving the west shore and once we are out it becomes clear that the raising wind and waves are a challenge for the small craft. The engine keeps cutting out and the whole boat is flexing alarmingly. Alice reassures herself that they must know what they are doing and surveys the lurching bikes. By the time we land there are no boats left on the water and instead a large queue of vehicles is forming. It will be another couple of hours before the wind drops enough for them to resume crossings.

    We spend the night in a small hotel with a tiny window that overlooks the channel. Surprisingly we can find no food in town. Emergency rations to the rescue.

    The next morning is our last ride along the lake - its very pretty and a quiet but tarmacked road. The end of the lake is soon in sight- with ever better views of the snowy Cordiellera ahead. There is a significant flat hinterland to cross and soon we roll into the small and untouristy town of Achacachi.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Shining in the morning: Ancohuma (6427m) and, further back on the left, Illiampu (6368)
    Paradox of natural grandor and human mediocrity.This truck is closer to Alain than to his side of the road!Enjoying the cobbles...... and the patchy road repairsA very steep stretchAncient stone wallsArriving to the pass, welcome!The pass; a valley begins here towards the AmazonA charming little lake. A big cloud has developedA good way to tie the bikes when bivouacing

    The mists of Ancohuma

    November 21, 2025 in Bolivia ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We end up spending three nights of rest in Achacachi. Alice has food poisoning and is out of action. Shopping for food in this little town is a bit tricky, there are shops on the two Plazas of the village, but the offerings are limited in both variety and quality. Restaurants are, at best, basic - the usual chicken with rice and chips, or rice with a dusting of ground beef.

    A beautiful day arrives and we take off. Our next stage is to pay a visit to the giant of Cordillera Real, Ancohuma, 6427m, now less than 30km away. As soon as we are out of town, the glaciers shine proudly and show us the way. Quickly we are in the countryside on a network of rather cobbly dirt roads. Local peasants wave us very kindly and the scenery is grand.

    Since we started near 3850m and the pass at the foot of the mountain is only around 4500, the climb is not so serious, but the cobbles and the patchy dirt road fixes make it difficult. We reach the pass soon after midday - but the great Mt Ancohuma has decided to cover itself with threatening clouds. The wind starts to rage. We decide to base ourselves near a little lake and pitch the tent before getting soaked.

    It is really a very nice spot! We spend the night and the next day in the mist in company of birds, a great play of light and clouds, a good deal of rain and the occasional rainbow. Little is seen of Mt Ancohuma, however.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    The lorries are often beautifully decorated
    Ancohuma appears once more - we were camped in the cloud bankAn isolated house

    To Penas

    November 23, 2025 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After a day of rest in the quiet it is time to get moving. For starters, we are out of food. We head back the way we came to begin with - at least the rough road is now downhill and thus a little easier to navigate. Though there are many large ponds and small fords. Alice is still wobbling- so sacrifices dry feet for safety.

    As soon as we descend a little, we get views of Ancohuma once more. Maybe it was there all the time whilst we sat in the bank of cloud?

    Once down we follow a quiet road (on tarmac!) to the village of Penas. Alain has hit a few rocks and a speed bump and his front wheel is no longer true. It’s a broken spoke which will need to be fixed. Unfortunately the break is in the nipple screw head and on the brake disk side - so its going to be a bit of work. As there are just a few more km to go we decide to continue and sort it once we arrive.

    In Penas, we find a room and set about resolving bike and food problems. There is one small shop, but with no fruit or veg or coffee or rice or sugar it does not exactly solve our food problems. Alice luckily finds a large bunch of bananas and some onions in the free food box and we set to work on the bike.

    Problem one is to extract the broken spoke. We don’t have a tool for the brake disk so its a lot of manouvering and bending - a rather nice 3D puzzle - except that honestly we would prefer to be having a hot shower. Then for the new spoke. As its an awkward corner we have a kevlar spare spoke as a new toy. (A strong cord that can be tensioned). Its a bit harder than we had hoped to get tight so the wheel is better but not exactly true. Hopefully enough to get Alain to La Paz.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Lago Tuni, reflecting Condoriri on the left, Cerro Zongo Jisthaña on the right.
    On a gray and windy day, we push towards clouds and peaksLlamas and Alpacas are abundant in this valleyThe peaks play in the clouds and we suffer in the dustThe Condoriri massif and the superb peak in the middleOn our right a massive mountain- Huayna Potosi 6088mDinner time. The big mountain has grown closer and biggerSunrise on Huayna PotosiOur campsite at sunrise. Condoriri shines clearThe Alpacas keep watchEaly morning lightThe show is in the sky, tooMesmerzing views on Lake Tuni

    Lago Tuni

    November 24, 2025 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The hostal in Peñas is well known by mountain climbers as a base from which to explore the chain of beautiful peaks west of La Paz. In the kitchen dining room, we meet two Italians, a couple of Austrians and a Swiss woman from Graubünden. Our difference, bicycle vs. crampons, is much smaller than our joint liking of quiet heights! Both dinner and breakfeast talks are very engaging, especially since our next target is Lago Tuni, next to Pico Austria where some of them plan to climb today.

    We set off on our repaired steeds. After a short stretch on the main road we arrive in Palcoco, where we are hailed by a group of three cyclists on the main square. In Bolivia, we have crossed the path of quite a few young western adventurers, attracted no doubt by the combination of natural beauty and low cost.

    After a false start from Palcoco (a lost and retrieved waterproof story), we have an uneventful dirt road climb (no dog, no near miss, no rain etc.) up the valley. The mountain range in front of us gently plays with the clouds. A mesmerizing very sharp peak is shining beautifully at times, which in hindsight we identify as Nevado Condoriri (5648m). As we reach precisely 4500m, Lago Tuni appears for the first time.

    It is getting quite late, so we descend ~150m to reach a meadow. A farmer encourages us to pitch the tent in the vicinity of his Alpaca stable near a clear little stream. The wind is strong and cold, but the sky has cleared. We have a great view on Pico Austria and Condoriri to the north and, in the east,a massive mountain illuminated by the sunset (Mt Huayna Potosi 6088m).

    The sunrise is just as clear, but clouds form quickly. We quit camp swiftly to reach Lago Tuni, and admire the reflections of the glaciers. It is hard to pull ourselves away from this beauty - but today we have a significant pass to conquer on our route to La Paz.    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Onwards and upwards towards Huayna PotosiBig skies, quiet empty trackLlama grazing below Huayna PotosiAn almost deserted mining villageStruggling onHeading up beside a steep sided valleyBefore the storm arrivesThe big mountain is gone, thunder crashes behind usIntriguing volcanic landscapesIts snowing lightly - we are just below 5000m with one more climb to goThe road has cut through the volcanic rockSinging in the snowThats our route. The landscape is surreal.Look at those wonderful rock wavesWill this be the highest we ever climb?Yes! 5040m and still smilingStill enough energy to fool aroundWe deserve to be pleased with ourselvesWe have no company except LlamaDown he goesOld abandoned mining village (and mess)Miners graves from the massacreThe beautiful colours are why mining was worthwhileNot so good for the environment thoughMining rainbow coloursLast view of the mountain that has mesmerized us all day

    Finishing on a 5000m high!

    November 25, 2025 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It is our last day of cycling of the trip. We have found an adventurous route called “Backdoor to La Paz” which will both take us over a 5000m pass and allow us to skip the main roads into La Paz.

    The day starts bright and sunny. We leave lake Tuni behind and head up past old mining villages and ruins and past more llamas. The view of Huayna Potosi is mesmerizing and the steep sided valley we are climbing beside is spectacular.

    By 10 Alice is ready for a refueling stop before we tackle the steepest and roughest section of the day. As we pause we feel a few flakes of snow and then hear thunder chasing up the valley behind us. The climb up through yet more abandoned mines is tough and long and steep. Alain cycles most of it, and Alice (still wobbly although much improved) pushes. Its a long haul but we are progressing. The scenery is wonderful and we manage to stay just on the edge of the storm which now obscures the high peaks.

    We have two passes today, the first is just under 5000m and the second just over. In between it is barren and lunar with barely any vegetation. Its very beautiful and very memorable. Such a wonderful experience to crown our trip. The track follows the crete between the two valleys and then skirts the hillside around to the next pass. It’s really hard to cycle at this altitude, and we need to stop and catch our breath every few hundred metres. Slowly and determinedly we progress. The snow clears to sunshine and we pause for some lunch just before the final few hundred metres.

    Once over the other side, its so much easier. Down! Wonderful views, big mountains and across from us a huge red coloured mountain range at the base of which is the large deserted tin mining town of Milluni. It was the site of a military massacre of striking mine workers in 1965 who were opposed to the government and had their own radio station. The cemetery for the miners is a national monument.

    From here we have a long hard gravel slog alongside a very contaminated lake. And then a steep long and very bumpy descent down into the city of La Paz    Read more

  • AliceAlainPeruTraveler
    Pumas, from the Museo National of Art in La Paz
    Arriving from the mountains: first views of La Paz (lower part) and El Alto (upper part)An extraordinary natural carving of this hill by erosionOur hotel is on this steep and busy streetAt "Popular Cucina Boliviana"Aerial electrical spaghetti on every corner...A little pedestrian street from the touristic town centerFrom our hotel. La Paz by night looks like a christmas treePassing by the witches marketDried baby alpacas for saleArtistc cobbles and derelict wallsBeautiful carving on this door panelMuseo National of ArtRestaurant "Mi Chola": we admire the simple cutlery holderQuinoa as fine cuisineMushrooms, quince purée and delicious herbsMi Chola : décoA very special plate for a (finely spiced) pork hamburger1To top it all up: decorated rice paper covering a yummy sponge cake

    La Paz

    November 27, 2025 in Bolivia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    La Paz is not huge, around 700k inhabitants, but it is very high for a capital and spans a wide altitude range (3600 to 4000m). It appears as reddish colored hills, decorated with a high density of varied brick buildings. Above it is the flat twin town of El Alto and then spectacular mountains; below are dramatic gorges.

    Our key mission here is to find bicycle boxes and pack the bikes for the return flight (success). Our pleasure... is to take a last breath of Andean culture before returning home. The hotel is in the old town, so we enjoy shopping around for some little llamas -- sooo cute — and incredibly soft Alpaca wool artefacts: scarves, hats, gloves.

    Bolivia became landlocked in 1884, when it lost the harbour of Antofagasta on the Pacific ocean to its neighbour Chile. This loss continues to impact Bolivian economics and politics, and is a long lasting wound that has not healed. At the top of a narrow cobbled street, climbing between peeling colored whitewashed walls, La Paz features a map museum "Museo del Litoral Boliviano" dedicated to this issue...

    La Paz, fortunately, has a more joyful face to offer. Lively merchant streets, the Museo de Metales Preciosos Precolombinos, with inca gold decorative wear and pre inca gold artefacts, and a bright national art museum, among others, are limited but very nice, reflections of older and current indigenous taste and traditions.

    To finish in style we treat ourselves to a gastronomic tasting menu of 14 (tiny) courses of andean dishes. Miammm!    Read more

    Trip end
    November 30, 2025
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