Berri and Barmera

We left Port Augusta and drove through ever-worsening weather to Clare, where we stopped once again and, other than a terrific Indian meal, saw nothing.

The following morning we drove to Burra, a heritage town some 40 kilometres northwest and highly recommended for a look around. However, it was 12 degrees, windy and raining, and as we were on holiday for relaxation not flagellation we drove through without stopping.

The rest of our drive took in Morgan - another picturesque river port town with a railway museum and a paddle steamer under restoration - and Waikerie - much more 21st century with magnificent grassy river banks and facilities.

Our destination for the next two night was Loxton; thriving, handsome and, again, perfectly situated on a bend in the river.

From there we drove back some distance to Banrock Station Wine and Wetlands Centre, where we first walked the wetlands then sampled the wine along with a more than decent lunch.

We learnt quite a lot on our walk about the problems affecting the river, among them salinity (caused oddly enough by over-irrigation) and the very rascally “rabbit of the river” - the European Carp. Banrock Station drained one of their wetland areas and ended up with 60 tonnes of carp to dispose of.

Back in Loxton, we walked the peaceful (if chilly) river bank as much as we could - this was by far the most beautiful and quiet stretch of the Murray we had come across.

Before we left the area we visited the gardens of “The Pines”, a rather fancy old home bequeathed to the town on the passing of its owner.

Then, on the way out, we took in one last sight, Lock Number 4, 516 kilometres from the sea but, incredibly, only 13 metres above sea level.

There are 10 locks altogether on the Murray, embedded into weirs that are both a boon to boat operators, irrigators and anyone with a property within cooee of the water but which have significantly changed the natural environment, with the natural ebb and flow of minor flooding eliminated, affecting vegetation and animal and bird habitats. In any case, it was a nice spot for a walk along the river and a few photos.Baca lagi