Australia
Karumba

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    • Day 48

      Croydon to Karumba

      June 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Leisurely start to Saturday morning, for the 3-hour drive to Karumba.

      We don’t usually book when we travel, but I did book into Karumba as it is a long way to travel if we could not get a campsite, and is a very popular destination for travellers especially grey nomads who spend months up here. Also, there is no free camping in the area. I booked into the caravan park by phone, and we have a ‘premium’ site on the fence for 2 nights at the Karumba Point Sunset Caravan Park.
      Looking forward to some sun and sand and sea.

      We drove on the Burke Development Road, which runs alongside the railway line used by the Gulflander.
      The iconic Gulflander train runs an overnight return trip between Normanton to Croydon once a week, and it provides tourists with an historic journey through savannah country on original and unique termite resistant, heritage listed steel rails and sleepers. The bridges along the line were designed to be submersible, as the area floods in the wet season. Today the line exists as a tourist attraction and is said to be more of an adventure than a train ride. The passengers are treated to morning tea, trivia, wildlife spotting and an overnight stay in Croydon. We stopped at the Blackbull Siding which has been a refreshment stop for the Gulflander since the 1890’s and took a few photos. The train only travels on Wednesdays and Thursdays, so we missed it passing by, as today is Saturday.

      We had a brief stop on the way, at the town of Normanton. Normanton started as a port for the Gulf of Carpentaria's cattle industry, and it grew with the discovery of gold at Croydon. The town's greatest tourist attraction today is the historic Gulflander Train, and 'Krys', a replica of the largest recorded saltwater crocodile captured/shot in the world, in 1958 measuring 8.63mts. Back then you could shoot crocodiles, but crocodiles have been protected since 1971.

      Normanton is also famous for the Purple Pub, officially known as the National Hotel and partly relocated from Croydon. It is a typical country pub, the one claim to fame (which shows you don't need much to make you famous) is that in the past, a publican painted it purple. Now the 'Purple Pub', as it is known, attracts tourists simply because it is purple and stands out in the town's main street. It is one of the most photographed buildings in the town.

      We continued driving on the road for about 70kms to Karumba, passing wetlands with more brolgas that we have ever seen in one spot, arriving in Karumba just after midday.

      We visited Karumba about 2 years ago and stayed at the other caravan park, but we think this one is in a better location. We are close to the boat ramp and the small beach, an easy walk to the Sunset Bar, and also to Ash’s café down the road.
      Once we were set up and had lunch, we walked over to the boat ramp and beach and spoke to some people fishing from the beach. Looks like this is the place to throw in the line. We saw a young guy with a 70cm barra he had just caught, so ‘El Nofisho’ may finally have some luck here. Finger crossed.

      Karumba is a town that revolves largely around fishing. It is home to extensive prawn, mud crab and the barramundi fishing fleets. The Karumba port services the fishing industry and the local Century Zinc Mine.

      Australian band Goanna mentions Kurumba in the song "Every Passing Day", and The Red Hot Chili Peppers' song "Animal Bar" talks about the infamous Animal Bar in Karumba, which had a wild reputation, and at one time, was so wild and unruly that the furniture was bolted to the floor to prevent furniture-throwing. We had a burger at the Animal Bar on our last visit to Karumba, and have to agree, it did look a bit rough then. I do not know the songs but will have to google them.

      Luckily for us, there is no furniture throwing at the aptly named nearby Sunset Bar where we went for a drink.
      The place is filled with travelers, locals and families today. It is within easy walking distance from our camp.

      We walked down to Ash’s for fish and chips for dinner, then over the road to have a drink at the Sunset Bar. We shared a table and a few drinks with Gail, a solo traveler a retired policewoman from NSW who is camped next but one from us and chatted to her for a couple of hours and then we all walked back to the caravan park together.

      While at the Sunset Bar, I took a lot of sunset photos. I never get tired of sunsets, and the outback sky is unlike any sunset in the city. The deep reds, yellows and oranges changing by the minute have to be seen to be believed. Once the sun has gone down past the horizon, the sky becomes a soft blend of pastels and is simply unforgettable.
      I just keep clicking away trying to capture the beauty and the memory.
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    • Day 49

      Karumba

      June 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      After a warm night and a restless sleep, we awoke and dressed and walked down to the local market, which is held every Sunday next to the Sunset Bar. We browsed but did not buy anything, as it was typical market stuff, nothing took my fancy, then back to the van for breakfast and a cuppa.

      Feeling energetic, we started on the 3.8km walk from where we are staying at Karumba Point to Karumba, past the mandatory crocodile warning and through the (dry) wetlands along the path, not really sure how far we would go or how our energy levels would be in the humid heat. We ended up walking the full length of the track, then stopped for 10 minutes to catch our breath and then walked back again.
      We felt happy with ourselves as it was a pretty good achievement walking nearly 8kms in the middle of the day, when we have not done this for quite a few years. We arrived back hot and sweaty and thirsty (we did take a small bottle of water with us) and recovered while having lunch.

      After lunch we drove the car down the track past the airport where there is access to the beach with the plan to fish off the beach. The tide was going out, and so were the fish. Last time we were in Karumba we brought a bait net which had not been opened, so Theo got it out and tried to practice casting to get some bait. He only caught 2 small fish and used them, but the bigger fish had already taken off with the tide. He said he is going to do a refresher on YouTube on bait net casting.

      There has been a vacant camp site between us and Gail, but late this afternoon, a massive caravan and vehicle pulled up and after a couple of attempts, they backed into the site. Six adults got out of the car, and a couple of swags have been set up under the awning. They said that they are staying for a week, so I am very happy that we are moving on tomorrow. Poor Gail is staying another 10 days and she is just in a small motor home, so I hope that they are not too noisy for her.

      Had a hamburger and barra burger for dinner then walked back along the beach trying to get the best sunset photo. Once again, lots and lots of photos of the magnificent sky and sun disappearing beyond the horizon.

      Tomorrow we are planning on heading west to a free camp at Leichhardt Falls, about 2 hours' drive. Talking to some other travelers, apparently the falls are pumping. Last time we stayed there, the falls were just flowing, but there has been some heavy rain recently.
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    • Day 56

      2 July - Still in Karumba

      July 2, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

      Well, still in Karumba, it looks like we have missed the main rain. South of us looks like it copped a bit, but the road here remains open
      Did a bit of land based fishing with the usual results, although we did get better at throwing the bait cast net
      Off to Leichhardt Falls tomorrow after a restock at Normanton.
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    • Day 58

      Karumba until Sunset

      June 14, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      This is where “the Outback meets the sea”.
      Only a stones throw from Normanton but there is a gulf of difference. Big cowboy hats are swapped for costal fisher person vibe.
      There are still too many really ugly fishing shirts - but - that’s a first world problem. At first I thought ‘Nomads were to blame, but these walking billboard fisherman are a 40-55 year old blokes. Someone out here has a shirt printing business who is making a killing, resulting in lots of big fish eyes watch us on the streets.

      The towns story is one of innovation and survival. It looks like it is doing pretty well right now despite several periods of dire straights in its history. Presently fishing is huge, Barramundi and prawns in particular. There is also a very large livestock shipping depot (cattle). And tourism 🥴
      Did you know, that the Gulf only has one low tide every 24 hours. The proximity of New Guinea to The Cape prevents the normal tidal cycle that we see on the east coast. AND the difference between high and low tide levels can be as much as 30k. I don’t think I want to be here when that is happening.

      It’s 32.8 at Karumba. Sitting here with the breeze off the Gulf it feels yummy warm and cool at the same time.
      We are at the Sunset Tavern. Which is renowned for the sunsets (surprise) and mud crab meals.
      Sun still has 3 fingers before sunset so a sunset photo will follow. (It’s happy hour so here’s hoping I can manage a decent sunset photo)
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    • Day 13

      Sunset Caravan Park Kurumba Point

      August 14, 2021 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

      Stopover.
      Tavern awesome, relaxed with take away and pokies.
      Diesel $165/litre
      $81 fill up.
      Laundry, toilets really nice and clean.
      Clothes lines.
      WiFi free but only at entertainment centre.

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Karumba, KRB, Карумба

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