• Polanco

      30 Oktober 2016, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

      After a delicious but late dinner, we were able to easily sleep in a little longer... An extra hour more than we had planned because we didn't realize CDMX's daylight savings had taken effect while we slept. We definitely didn't complain. We enjoyed some coffee before setting off to the upscale Polanco neighborhood for a food tour.

      It started in a restaurant called Guzina Oaxaca where we learned about the common ingredients used in salsa and mole. The owner/chef, one of the top 20 in Mexico we were told, helped save the pepper that gives mole negro its black color which is often incorrectly thought to be from chocolate. There are around 45-50 ingredients in a typical mole (vs around 5 in a salsa) and no single ingredient should overpower the rest. Our tour guide, Luis, was very interested in hearing about our Pujol mole experience and was hoping to make it there soon.

      Our next stop was a tamale shop. From the three vegetarian options, we chose the frijol y queso and nopal (cactus) y queso. They were equally delicious. We also tried a different type of atole (traditional warm corn drink) than we had the night prior at Pujol which was a chocolate version.

      Luis took us through the lively Lincoln park which is lined with old Spanish-style mansions that have since been converted into beautiful restaurants. The park was named after a statue of Abraham Lincoln was gifted by president LBJ in the 60s. The park was swarming with people and festivities. In the park was a public viewing of the Formula 1 Grand Prix of Mexico that was taking place in the city that day.

      At our next stop, we enjoyed mushroom quesadillas with hibiscus agua fresca. We learned that the difference between a taco and quesadilla is how they're served - tacos are rolled while quesadillas are folded in half.

      The next two stops were for dessert. First we went to a packed ice cream shop to try "mamey" fruit ice cream. The fruit is the shape of an avocado but pink on the inside and brownish on the. The ice cream was just the right amount of sweet. We followed the ice cream up with a stop at a gourmet chocolate shop that is known for its chocolates designed to taste exactly like other treats such as Mexican cake, mango and chamoy, pistachios, guava and so many others. The chocolates were served with mezcal and, surprisingly, the combination was quite pleasant.

      Agua and Sal, known for its fresh seafood, was the next destination. We enjoyed a refreshing ginger drink and an awesome Marlin tostada. The Marlin was cooked to have a similar texture and taste to pulled pork.

      Finally, and thankfully because we were getting full, our last stop took us to a restaurant known for its tortilla soup. Our guide, forgetting that white meat is not included in our vegetarian eating habits, told us that it contained pork skin. Nonetheless, we tried the soup and it was pretty good, but Brittany was thankful she didn't have crispy pork skin floating around in hers.

      The tour ended close to the highly rated anthropology museum so we decided to stop in. Not being big museum people, we were going to opt for a tour guide but learned they were unavailable on Sundays, so Nico was the impromptu guide. The Mexican history is really fascinating. The exhibits featuring Teotihuacan, Aztec and Mayan history were especially interesting. The Aztec sun stone was the most impressive display.

      We waited out the rain in the museum. On our way back to the hotel, we took a stroll through Chapultepec park and were treated to a pretty sunset over the castle.
      Baca lagi

    • Pujol

      29 Oktober 2016, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

      After reading through a number of foodie travel blogs, one restaurant was recommended throughout: Pujol. There is also an episode on the Netflix series "Chef's Table" that highlights Pujol and chef Enrique Olvera that we watched before our trip.

      We arrived at the restaurant a few minutes prior to 9:30pm and just before a few other parties that must have had the same timeslot. Although the cozy restaurant was packed, we were pleased with the spacing between the tables which allowed for ample privacy.

      As noted in blogs and on Chef's Table, the menu comes delivered in an envelope with a wax stamp of an E. One of the waiters walked us through the menu and asked if we had any food allergies or dietary restrictions, and assured us that our pescetarian diet was of no concern. We allowed for a few compromises: insects and lard. We couldn't pass up the chance to try baby corn that is served with an ant sauce and Enrique's most prized dish, mole madre, which is prepared with lard.

      We started with tequila cocktails and several street food appetizers. While good and showcasing some unique flavors and ingredients, the starters weren't exceptional in our opinion.

      The second course was a vegetable mole dish with mushrooms, greens and crispy banana chunks. The flavors were excellent and we looked forward to trying the mole madre.

      For the third course, Brittany got the Amarillito tamal served with fava beans and Swiss chard; Nico opted for the lobster tostada. The tamale was exceptional and Brittany savored every bite. The lobster tostada was also quite good. The tostada shell was served on top of the serving bowl and the server recommended it be broken up into the crudo-style lobster.

      Course number four featured a buckwheat zucchini blossom and mushroom risotto for Brittany, and fresh seabass with beurre-noisette for Nico. Brittany's dish had a smoky flavor (due to the cheese) and the mushroom were cooked to perfection. The zucchini blossoms added a complementing touch try the cheese. The fish was one of Nico's favorite dishes ever. The preparation of the fish was on par with that of the best Italian restaurants, but what really stood out were the accompanying fresh corn tortillas meant to scoop the food. The combination created a delicious array of flavors.

      Course 5: the Oaxacan specialty mole madre. Two types of mole, one new and the other aged 1111 days, accompanied by fresh tortillas. The presentation of the course itself was a bold statement, relying on a sauce to serve as an entree. However, it did not disappoint. The flavors were really exquisite - one could discover new tastes with every bite. We had to ask for more tortillas (since this course wasn't served with silverware) to scoop up the rest of the delectable dish.

      After the first 5 courses, we were already pretty full but couldn't miss out on the dessert. There were 6 small items served. The first was a pulque sorbet served with chile powder which was very refreshing and cleared the pallet. The remaining 5 desserts were brought out together, and we were instructed to try them in a certain order. The highlight was definitely the churros. They were perfectly crispy and a little bit doughy with just the right amount of cinnamon and sugar.

      Two and a half hours later, we were finished, full and quite pleased. Overall this was definitely one of the best meals we've ever had. The price, when compared with Michelin star restaurants elsewhere, was quite reasonable. Also, as a result of the primary cuisine inspiration, we've added Oaxaca to our list of future destinations.
      Baca lagi

    • Trip to Tehotihuacan

      29 Oktober 2016, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

      We woke up early in an attempt to avoid traffic in town. We caught a quick uber to the omnibus station (only $3 for 20 mins, the exchange rate is quite favorable at 19:1) and then hopped on a bus to Tehotihuacan. We chose this method of transport to bypass the tourist crowds and save money for better things (see: dinner footprint). We hit some traffic out of town so the drive took around 75 minutes. Along the way, we saw lots of colorful houses built up into the hills.

      Upon arrival at the archaeological site, we paid our $3 admission and headed towards the pyramids. The first thing we noticed was that a plethora of vendors were selling a toy/souvenir which made a loud, puma-like growl. It was persistent throughout our stay and quite obnoxious, but what can you do... The site was pretty impressive. The pre-Columbian and pre-Aztec city is estimated to have been home to over 100,000 people in the first centuries BC. What remains are a series of structures along a long road (the Avenue of the Dead), with a number of large plazas for gatherings, and two large pyramids: one in honor of the sun and the other in honor of the moon. One can climb up on both pyramids to look over the entire city ruins. At 216 ft, the pyramid of the sun is the third largest ancient pyramid in the world. Many believe that this was the western hemisphere's first great city.

      For lunch, we decided to try a restaurant recommendation Brittany had found in a travel blog. The blog had noted that it was just outside of Puerta 1 but we soon found out it was actually outside of Puerta 5, a half mile walk away. Although a bit touristy for its location in a cave, La Gruta was tastefully decorated with an altar for Día de Muertos. Vegetarian options were scarce but our waiter kindly suggested the pollo fajitas... without the pollo and with oyster mushrooms instead. The atmosphere and cold beers made it a fun experience.
      Baca lagi

    • Day 1

      28 Oktober 2016, Mexico ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

      For Brittany's 30th, we decided to avoid Halloween and check out Día de los Muertos south of the border instead. Thanks to our Southwest companion pass, the flight to Mexico City was quite cheap. Some Marriott points came in handy as hotels were pricey due to the festivities and the F1 grand prix. We sat next to a guy that was headed to CDMX (ciudad de mexico) for his bachelor party and who happened to be a chef in Telluride. We talked about our upcoming reservations at Pujol (one of the acclaimed best restaurants in the world - located in CDMX) and he recommended some favorites in LA and San Diego.

      After a 5 mile drive that took an hour due to traffic that appeared to be worse than our current hometown's, we arrived at our hotel. The Marriott Reforma is in a bustling part of town, the Zona Rosa, that is close to a variety of shops, restaurants and bars. We also discovered that the first annual Día de los Muertos parade (first thanks to the James Bond film Spectre) will take place a short distance away.

      We walked to Mercado Roma, a modern food hall, for dinner. We tried a tostada de callo (scallops) and an empanada de pescado with two Pacificos to wash it down. Next we tried a torta vegetariana that had eggplant, cheese and avocado and 2 artisanal Mexican beers. The flavors of the torta really stood out, complemented well by spicy pickled vegetables.

      Following dinner, we decided to join the long line at the churro stand. Fortunately the friendly couple in front of us showed us that you order first and then wait in line to pick up your food. After around 30 minutes, we were almost up to pick up our churros and Mexican hot chocolate. The couple in front of us started having an intense conversation with the churro chef. I was able to recognize a few words from a TV show we recently started watching (Narcos), such as "hijo de punta," "pendejo," and "tienes juevos"? That's when I realized it wasn't just a friendly conversation. We figured out later that the couple was mad because the chef/cashier had let several people bypass the long line. To top it off, the chef got a slap before the couple stormed off. He was so shocked that he left our churros in the fryer a little too long. They were a bit crunchy but still good...
      Baca lagi

    • Stopover in Narita

      6 Jun 2016, Jepun ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

      The long journey home included a lengthy layover in Tokyo. Given that the departing flight left Palau at 1:30 AM, we were ready for some shut eye. Fortunately Narita airport offers day rooms by the hour so we got 5 hours of sleep before boarding our flight to LAX.Baca lagi

    • Kayaking in Risong Bay

      5 Jun 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

      On the last day, we joined some diving friends for a kayaking tour through the Rock Islands with our dive shop. We got an early start and arrived at Risong Bay around 9 AM. We jumped into the kayaks and paddled into a shallow bay which serves as a nursery for baby black tip sharks - we saw a few of them from a distance. In addition, the lush limestone island are home to an abundance of vegetation and birds (13 endemic species!). We also explored a bay, home to several dugongs, Micronesian sea cows similar to manatees. Unfortunately we didn't see any.

      After the customary bento box lunch, enjoyed in a small cavern, we were met with another tropical rain storm. Given the doctor's orders to not get the stitches wet, we improvised by tying a plastic bag around Nico's head to keep the wound covered. The last stop was Mandarin fish lake in which those that were able partook in some snorkeling. Overall, it was a nice relaxing experience, paddling through the secluded Rock Islands hearing only the sounds of the birds and ocean, though probably not quite worth the (discounted) $120 price tag.

      After exchanging farewells with the dive friends and crew, we grabbed dinner at the Drop Off Bar (the fresh seafood doesn't get old) and then tried to rest up before our 1:45 AM departure (though the mosquitoes weren't cooperating).
      Baca lagi

    • Dry Day

      4 Jun 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

      The trigger fish attack, although rather annoying, happened at the best possible time during the trip. With no more diving ahead of us, we welcomed the dry day to relax and spend some time out of the water.

      We enjoyed lunch at a spot closer to town specializing in Italian food. The restaurant offered free pick up and drop off which was very convenient. Afterwards, we had the driver drop us off in town so we could look into a few shops and walk around.

      We stopped to get massages at a place recommended by Lureen and Peggy. It had to be a good spot - Peggy got daily massages. We're not sure how they found it because you had to go between some buildings, up some stairs, then down some stairs to find the door.

      The shop was nothing glamorous, but at $20 for an hour body massage, no complaints were made. Our hotel's "special" was $135 for the same. Granted it would be a little fancier, but probably not better.

      After looking in a few shops (we rarely buy souvenirs) we walked back to the hotel, because no trip of ours would be complete without a long walk through the city we're visiting. It was hot. And sweaty. We had to buy ice cream midway to cool down.

      We rounded out the afternoon by the beach and pool, reading our books.

      Almost every person that we encountered and talked to mentioned the Taj. The Taj is an Indian restaurant in town - it also offers free pick up and drop off! Wouldn't it be nice to have that option back home? You wouldn't have to worry about parking and everyone could drink! Anyway, we heard the same thing from everyone, "Great food, kind of pricey." We figured since everyone mentioned it, we should at least give it a try and add it turns out, we'd say the same - great food, kind of pricey!
      Baca lagi

    • Diving Day 5 - Blue Sites & the Attack

      3 Jun 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 84 °F

      Our final day of diving put us on the same boat with many of the same divers we dove with earlier in the week. Sergi asked Nico where he wanted to go and he quickly said "Blue, anything blue." We hadn't done the Blue Hole yet so it was our first stop and our final dive would be the Blue Corner.

      The Blue Hole was similar to the Siaes Tunnel but had larger openings in the ceiling and provided more light. Sergi showed us disco clams (they have hair(?) that lights up blue) and nudibranches that called the overhang their home.

      Once we were out of the hole, we continued along a steep wall that had so much action you didn't know where to look. There was an amazing amount of large schools of fish swimming just away from the wall, little fish that swam closer to the coral, and sharks that would appear and then fade out into the blue, reappearing moments later. It was incredible. At this point, our companion Jim ran low on air so he ascended with the second guide leaving us with just Sergi.

      As we drifted along, we recognized the area as the Blue Corner where we had previously hooked in. That day's current was much calmer, allowing us to swim idly into it to stay in place so we could watch the underwater world at work. We saw schools of jacks / tuna so dense you couldn't see the blue behind. Sharks approached within arm's reach on multiple sides. We continued to drift along as we came upon two turtles and two huge schools of barracudas. The show of marine life in the blue simply didn't stop.

      Once we reached the other side of the Blue Corner, Sergi instructed us to kick against the current. It was a bit tiring, but we eventually made it across the plateau where we could drift along again. Luckily, we checked our computers and noticed that we were close to going into deco (our computers are very conservative) and needed to start shallowing up. It was a long dive, almost 70 minutes with max depth of 90 feet, and easily the best dive of the trip and quite possibly ever. Sergi agreed that this was Blue Corner at its finest.

      We took a quick lunch break and were right back at Blue Corner. This time the current was strong, really strong. We pulled ourselves down the mooring line and then kicked like hell to get past the wall. Brittany, diving with the big camera, kept getting stuck because of the reef hook and had to ascend to recollect herself before taking another path to the hook point. It was a battle to kick against the current and trying to find a safe place to grab onto. Midway through the struggle, dive guide Earle hooked her in, continuing on after much needed rest. They finally hooked in a few feet away. And boy, we were hooked in. Bubbles were drifting away horizontal and looking sideways would rip the goggles off your head. The fish, who were enjoying holding against the current, were out in full force with loads more sharks, barracuda, jacks, and more.

      After unhooking, we were once again alone with Sergi. We drifted over the sand bottom plateau. I (Brittany) noticed Sergi being chased by an aggressive Titan triggerfish when accidentally swimming over its nest - a bit funny at first; the fish ended up biting his fins several times. Nico was right behind but was looking towards me, so he didn't see the triggerfish coming right for his head, twice, one of which he took out a dime-sized chunk. Nico turned to kick away, and a small cloud of blood, which looked green underwater, trailed after him. He was fine to keep diving, and the pressure appeared to stop the bleeding. We finished the dive, seeing an eel, Dori fish, and a turtle along the way. (Luckily no sharks were spotted for the remainder of the dive...)

      Upon exiting, the other divers were already discussing the "real" Blue Corner - apparently it was a tough dive for all. Once they discovered that Nico had been assaulted by the triggerfish, they each had to take a picture of the wound.

      Once back at the dive shop, Rico, the manager, took a look at the injury and asked Sergi to take us to the hospital. He needed stitches.

      The hospital was quiet but it still ended up taking a long time. We were moved from (empty) waiting room to (empty) waiting room. He was finally called and questioned. We thought triggerfish injuries would have been a common thing they dealt with considering how aggressive they are but the nurses and doctors were all surprised/amused that a fish had done it.

      2 stitches, a fancy haircut, new headwear (bandages), and $190 later, we were released. Sergi dropped us off at our hotel and we took the rest of the night easy.
      Baca lagi

    • Diving Day 4 - Ngemelis / Chandelier Cav

      2 Jun 2016, Palau ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

      The fourth day of diving took us back to Ngemelis Island for a mellow dive as well as Palau's quintessential dive site Blue Corner. On the boat, we were joined by a boisterous couple from South Africa. Jonathan was a physician turned travel guide, G(iovanna) was a former dive master at Sam's, and together they own Apex Expeditions. Hearing about their travels made us look like home bodies. Despite Jonathan meeting the adrenaline junky cliche, we enjoyed talking to someone so passionate about exploring the world's marine and wildlife.

      The first dive was Fairyland. With no current and great viz, this dive made for spectacular macro shots. For those of you not familiar, underwater macro photography focuses on the little things: anemone, nudibranches, small reef fish, soft coral formations, etc. This really illustrates the staggering amount of marine bio diversity present in the Indo-Pacific coral triangle. The new camera setup worked great with macro mode and the strobe light, and we got some pointers on fish ID from G and Sergi. More pictures to come once we filter through our collection. Lunch was spent in the boat moored near an idyllic beach with perfect weather.

      Relaxation was not the theme of the second dive, our first experience at Blue Corner. We were briefed on using reef hooks which are used to attach yourself to rocks / dead coral in the strong currents. Upon entering, we inched down the mooring line and then had to vigorously kick against the current to reach the area protected by the wall. After drifting along the wall, we hooked in to watch massive schools of jacks swim by, joined by many great reef and white tip sharks coming close and then fading off into the blue. There were also several turtles, barracudas, bumphead parrotfish, and an octopus.

      The day's final dive was near the dive shop at Chandelier Cave. After dropping off several divers, we took a 30 sec boat ride to the opening. We saw four different chambers where we surfaced and "hung out" for a bit, chatting with Sergi. The first one was the biggest and it had a large Stalactite that looked like a Chandelier, giving the cave its name. Of course, since it was a cave, it was dark, so we closely followed Sergi to each chamber so we wouldn't get lost. However, on the way out, we turned off our torches and swam towards the light blue opening of the cave.
      Baca lagi

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